Never seen this before. Chevy oil pressure problem

I see something new everyday
#keepwrenching #wesselmotorworks #wrenchingwithkenny @wrenchingwithkenny

[@slt2239]

Interesting. I've never seen that happen, but the mechanics I worked with when I was kid taught me to always weld the pick up to the pump. 25+ years later I finally see why.!

[@honkie247]

I built and raced small block chevy engines for 20 years. I always installed the pickup by cleaning the pump and pickup and coating the pickup tube with red locktite (bearing and sleeve retainer). Never had one move or come loose.

[@ElectricBillAlbright]

Indian Head it! LOL 🤣 The shellac sealant. I've used on brass freeze plugs then stake in with a chisel in 4 places.

[@darrinscoilsclouds1498]

My trucks doing the same exact thing I’m gonna check that tomorrow. Thank you so much.!!!!!!!!4.3 2001 Chevy express. It’s doing the same exact thing, the same exact thing, the same exact thing!!!!!!

[@darrinscoilsclouds1498]

@@markmiller8853 mine developed a rod knock. I drop the oil pan change the rod bearings and installed a high flow oil pump. did the same thing for the first 3000 miles and now it holds just high enough that the oil light doesn't come on so I guess it's a win.

[@paullaird7944]

Old race car folks used to weld or braze the pickup tubes on so they would not do that

[@A71-c6v]

Welding the pickup tube to the pump is a must on small blocks and big blocks

[@tonycking0121]

Yep iv always done that on everyone I've ever done. Not one has come loose

[@MichaelKrzykowski]

my moroso pickup has a bracket on it to bolt it to the oil pump housing. Still a good idea to weld it, I've seen drag racers weld the bolts to the housing so nothing can come apart.

[@apachebill]

Always weld them up where the pickup tube goes into the housing. Pontiacs are famous for vibrating that tube loose. When it goes to the bottom of the pan, it’s over. You’re walking in under 15 seconds. Then building a motor if the car hasn’t been stolen before the wrecker could get it. Weld them up! Every time! Not “tacked” or “spot welded”. Those will vibrate off and send frag through the motor. Weld it up. As far around as you can! Put an actual bead on it!

[@michaelnelson9140]

Yep, can’t believe he made a video. We all know this!

[@vrm86gt]

Definitely throw a few tack welds on the pickup!

[@backschuddle]

In the 70s, we always disassembled every oil pump and inspected them, measured the rotor gears to check valve plate clearance, removed the check valve and spring and spot welded the pickups on small block and Big block Chevy's, never having to worry about press fit or lack of. If the customer requested, we would make a bolt on bracket and weld it to the pickup tube so it could be bolted to the check valve plate. We had a few customers bring their complete Big Blocks, in for a Build and the oil pump pick up was laying in the oil pan, and the customer had complained about low oil pressure issues.

[@stephenmiller5023]

More than one Small block Chevy engine has met its early demise because of this very issue . I used to check & set the pickup to bottom of oil Pan clearance with some modeling clay during mock-up whenever rebuilding one & once set up where I wanted it would mark the location on pickup / pump & remove pump carefully & braze pickup tube to pump body for this very reason . Another alternative is to use Red lock-tite on the tube to pump , but only if all parts are washed with brake parts cleaner to remove all traces of oil first & have a pretty tight fit to begin with . Good catch here , & hopefully it’s still running for ya .

[@jimrudolph1582]

Thank you for saving me typing this out. Was taught to do this when I was a wee boy watching the mechanics.

[@a.h.h9647]

I have been driven to your video by chance , symptoms are exactly to what I have now on my SBC engine , and intended to order new oil pump but you opened my eye to inspect before losing money thanks man lot

[@philzellmer6073]

Hey Kenny thanks for the video....This is not uncommon....I've seen this with a bunch of SBC 's over the years.....We even had one in the fleet that did not want to prime after oil changes. We had to plug the PCV, pull off the oil cap and use an air nozzle with a rag to seal around it and pressurize the crankcase, then another tech would start the engine. It was actually OK until the next oil change....eventually when we got time, the pan was pulled and the pickup to pump connection was repaired....lots of fun!! Keep up the good work, thanks again.

[@lelandlewis7207]

That's why on race and performance engines the pickup either has a support bracket or is tack welded, it's not an uncommon issue. The pressure drops because it loses prime at lower speeds due to air getting around the pickup. The pickup also has probably turned so it is too close to the pan creating a flow issue that adds to the problem at idle.

[@jamesmartin1724]

These are press fit you’ll need a new pickup tube and tac weld for insurance. Been building Chevys for over 50 years.

[@WrenchingWithKenny]

Done !! Did that this afternoon !!

[@randy1ization]

doesnt the heat from the weld weaken the oil bypass spring in the pump?

[@glennmanchester5696]

No it's just a tack weld it doesn't get that hot

[@DjMetalmike]

So where the follow up video to this ? I have the same issue . Did replacing the oil pump and pickup tube help ?

[@insulman100]

I have one I had never seen in my 46 years of working on engines I bought a chevy 638 block long block(92 tbi 350) for $50 the man said it was a fresh rebuild but never had oil pressure and locked up I checked out the bottom end of the 350 and found an old oil galley plug in the oil passage in the rear main cap have no idea how got there but it had to be there before assembly so it was either put there on purpose or it was built by a very sloppy builder

[@frosthoe]

All your bearings and sliding surfaces have kissed, that engine is hurt, how much is unknown. But it was cavitation. Im surprised you thought 15-20 psi was ok!!! You should be seeing 45-70 at idle and 120psi at rpms for any HD or performance applications. My 2 cents.

[@mike5353]

Change the O ring on the dipstick while you have the oil pan off. It will fix your problem.

[@aprilgeneric8027]

the pickup tube is missing the o-ring which notoriously fails 7k-120k miles on all chevy trucks. personally i think it's the methheads & coke sniffers of indiana and ohio at ft wayne plant. not joking about the drug use. it's rampantly bad. 3:00 also the roll over knocked all the sludge out of it's secluded cavities so it winds up in the pan and the sump sucks it up into the tube. that one looks recently replaced or cleaned. learned this from crazed performance repair on his ls engine rebuilds

[@readplanet23]

Thank You sir for this informative video. I am a BIG FAN of the Chevrolet 4.3 liter V6. How can you go wrong with the 350’s baby brother. I have seen mechanics in the past put a spot weld on the oil pump/pickup tube during an engine rebuild just to solve that future problem. Again, Thank You for your time and effort to bring these small but important tips to the KZbin communities attention. And by the way, nice looking shop. Keep up the good videos. Have A Productive Day! 🛻🚚🚛

[@gregmckinney6977]

Once you've set the oil pan to pickup clearance, drop the pump, spot weld the pickup in place to the pump, then reinstall it. Dropping the pump, or having the engine out, keeps you from trying to isolate all the electronics from the welder.

[@73carson]

Same problem here with my 1994 chevy truck 5.7 . Now this is my second motor and doing the same thing. Oil pressure drops down to the red when hot and check engine light comes on. Changed sending unit several times on both motors and oil pump on the engine i have now. Good oil pressure when hot and when it drops sometimes it jumps up and down . I am wondering if it could be Elect when wires get hot. What a Headache .

[@user-cs3zs6jn1d]

For high oil pressure, put a 2wd pick up tube and 2wd oil pan. I did that on a blazer I had and it ran 75 psi all the time. That same engine is now on its 3rd vehicle, s10. It has close to 400k miles and still running high oil pressure. Everyone has told me it's not a good thing to have that much oil pressure,but I can't believe that when the engine is outlasting the trucks I put it in.

[@dondownriver3464]

I bought a used engine years ago and changed the oil pan gasket and found the pick up tube laying in the bottom of the oil pan before had the same oil pressure problems your talking about..

[@danielcoe9421]

Did the oil pump replacement work? I’m having the same problem with a 454

[@spelunkerd]

There's supposed to be an O ring on that pickup tube, I wonder where it went. I've heard that those O rings can dry and crack. As I recall there was a TSB on some of the chev trucks describing a poor O ring design that was changed. As you say, the pickup tube works like a straw, so if even a tiny leak above the level of the oil will allow air in, the pump can't work properly. Great case.

[@PapawCulberson]

On a small block Chevy? No oring - that one is a press fit. You must believe this is an LS style engine. It is obviously an old school SBC - the newer style with the roller lifters.

[@goenitzlopez2076]

​@@PapawCulbersoncorrect there is no o ring it's just a press fot

[@glennmanchester5696]

Yes it's a 4.3 a Chevy 350 w 2 cylinders cut off no o ring a lot of guys will tack them but the factory didn't another trick it to egg shape it slightly and then tap it in and that will hold it in place .. I agree you must be mistaken in the L. S . Engines have an o ring on the long pick up tube that runs from the front of the engine where the oil pump is to the rear sump and after a couple hundred thousand miles will often fail giving you low oil pressure and once the o ring is replaced your good for a couple hundred thousand more miles ... And even then if you take it apart you can still see the cross hatch on the cylinder walls ..

[@derekgriffith4324]

O ring would be on a pickup tube on a ls series engine with the front mounted crank driven oil pump and pickup tube but this engine is earlier than ls. This is old style distributor driven pump. That pickup tube would be just press fit and should be much tighter than that.

[@lemans3507]

Never an o-ring.

[@joe-hp4nk]

I JB Weld my pump pick up 15 years ago and still going strong.

[@cpabrego]

You can put a Mechanical gates on the front engine port to get a different Data point. I had a similar issue, and it seemed to be resolved by simply replacing the oil filter. The oil filter is actually between the front engine port in rear engine oil port. So it's possible they're sludge built up in there. I run my Chevy With a permanent oil gauge on the front port undred the hood

[@kellismith4329]

Where is the port exactly on the front ?

[@cpabrego]

​@@kellismith4329 front driverside near the ground wire. It's really hard to see with the power steering pump in the way. There's a large plug

[@davidhorsley1149]

It didn't necessarily have to be sucking air. If you've ever watched video of a boat prop, totally submerged cavitate, it will produce bubbles underwater with no access to an air source. You just have to move the fluid faster than it is capable of, or introduce a secondary stream of fluid. At Idle, the pump was probably not moving enough oil to lower the oil level for it to suck air, but the pump was probably pulling enough suction to pull oil around the pick up tube (the second stream). That could have generated "frothy" oil, which would hold no pressure, because the air in the bubbles would compress more readily than the oil itself. Cavitation is the bane of anything hydraulic, and it has been known to happen in sealed hydraulic systems, resulting in anything from weak hydraulics to destroyed pumps.

[@ranger178]

boat propeller cavitation is different than just frothy oil in an engine. on boat propeller it has very high pressure and it makes the water actually boil even erodes away surface of propeller on high powered boats

[@davidhorsley1149]

@@ranger178 in any "hydraulic" scenario where you are moving fluid cavitation is possible. The only prerequisite is that the mechanical influence be greater than the fluids ability to move.

[@lylejohnston4125]

@@ranger178 It also causes bent/broken exhaust valves on a 454 ls6. Ask me how I know!

[@michaelriddell9829]

Your video posted after this discuss the actual oil fill level in the pan and how it covers the pump and no need for priming. The oil level also covers the pickup tube interface, so siphoning air is not the cause of loss of oil pressure with proper oIl fill level. So, what did you find was the problem with oil pressure dropout? I did not see any subsequent videos covering your findings.

[@ChiefCabioch]

Never seen an oring on a chevy oil pump pickup tube, the relief valve is stuck, I've only used big block pumps on all small block, big blocks and V6s....

[@jimmyfleetwood1118]

I had a 326 Pontiac do what you described. It was an original, one owner car, and when it was again driven regularly (with fresh oil changes), the light sludge took out the cam bearings. On tear down all else was fine and within spec.

[@markhuyette8509]

I had one the other way from a accident it made so much oil pressure it blew the rear main seal out of a 350 TBI engine the guy is right put a tack weld on it thank you for your videos and have a blessed day

[@MontanaWelldigger]

Oil pressure blow out the rear main??? Doesn't seem possible to me.

[@jasonmartinez5962]

How exactly does that happen? I’m dealing with a 92 350 that’s blowing out filter seals!!! Could this be the cause? I understand 0 psi but how does it build excessive pressure? This one has a filter adapter but no cooler. And no there was not a leftover seal stuck in between. Happened outta the blue… but 2x in a row!

[@easygoing2479]

Interesting little problem, and confined to that pickup tube to pump body mating. With higher rpms, the pump is pulling enough to draw the tube into the pump body, and _voilà!_ Acceptable oil pressure. But at idle, the pump draw is low enough so as to allow that pickup tube/pump body joint to relax, and any oil drawn in is aerated. No pressure. That's my story and I'm sticking to it.

[@marccampbellsr1085]

CSI - Oil Pump Division - These are the stories from the pan .....😊👍

[@txrick4879]

​@@marccampbellsr1085Yes I agree . Ever got a soda and the straw had a crack in it . Not getting much , same thing .

[@charlesmccormick4443]

Reman - Who ever removed the screen from the old pump distorted the (knock in ) press fit of the tube going into the pump or by turning the screen to the proper angle after installing the screen . Who ever installed that screen should have known that was not tight enough and a problem that can destroy the engine , should have got a new screen . Ive seen people years ago rough up the tube (burs )so it would fit tighter in the pump , I guess they didnt think about it sucking air because it wasnt sealing correctly . Other companies bolt the screen to the pump so this doesnt happen . And NO their is not a o`ring on the tube , its a press type fit .

[@ChevyCoco]

New pump, New screen installed correctly, pickup screen requires a specific tool for installation to the pump, have correct pickup for and adjustment to the oil pan to be used, and correctly tack welded (not to getting it to hot, or welding any debris) check everything before final assembly! SB Chevy oiling is critically important to life expectancy. Always New OEM Delco stock parts! GM already invested millions researching V-8 oiling systems 🙂 GBU

[@charlesmccormick4443]

@@ChevyCoco All you have to do is , what ever spacing you want the pickup screen off the bottom of the oil pan , just start the screen in the pump slightly and slightly tilted up toward the pan , lay something the thickness you want it off the bottom > on the bottom of the screen , and then set the oil pan down in place it will push the screen down in the position where it belongs , then remove the pan put on some red loctite and knock the screen into the pump up against the stop . I have never tore down a GM engine with the screen tack welded to the pump..........Its not like a new screen is that expensive .

[@davecramer9725]

Always welded that pick up tube to the pump never had any problems with oil pressure

[@charlesmccormick4443]

@@davecramer9725 Go ahead and weld the freeze plugs , bearing races and etc.. also while your at it , all of which are not necessary when done correctly .......Then call GM and tell them you know more about it than they do ...........

[@rcf8367]

Tack weld the pick up tube to the pump body on both sides! Good insurance…

[@WrenchingWithKenny]

Done !!

[@dave6199]

Tack weld jeez that sounds rough..O ring perhaps we need a good seal dont we ?

[@randy1ization]

ive heard that welding it can ruin the oil bypass spring in the pump.. how do you get around this, do u have to remove the spring? if so how.

[@realdeathpony]

@@dave6199 you know nothing. Go read a book.

[@justin-sane713]

Yup tack welding the pickup to the pump is old school insurance that has been a good way to keep it in place and pickup oil as well as keep it from letting air into the system! 😎👍

[@KM-os4be]

I know this is late but been thru this a few times with Gen 1 SBC. Pioneer 839061 Oil Pump Screen Fastener if this is a 5/8" pick up and not a 3/4" pickup is the way to go. Use thread locker on the bolts.

[@rickybailey7123]

This is a 4.3 old style motor they have aluminum oil pans looks like a Ls it's a vortex !!

[@jasonsimmons6684]

I've heard so many people say the pickups fall off or don't seal right, etc. I've built many sbc and never once had a problem. I don't weld them or anything. Done them in 4x4s, drag cars, dirt cars, street cars. Even a couple 4.3l and just never had that bad luck, I guess. I also am selective and test fit as well as clearance check. That's a weird issue though, I'll say that.

[@majestic7117]

Yeah I’ve done at least a hundred long block. It only makes common sense to sure the pick up Is tight and at the right height. That’s the same symptoms the ls motors have when the o-ring gets hard and flat. Just my two pennies.

[@jasonsimmons6684]

@@majestic7117 yeah it's a solid idea and I'm not opposed to tacking the pickup in place. I've just never once had an issue and built motors from almost all domestic makes and models. Even some of the new gen engines and it's just never been an issue for me

[@markwitkop7022]

Thourally clean the outside of the pick up tube, and the inside of the receiving hole for the tube. Run a small bead of JB Weld around the tube just infront of the buldge on the pipe. Set in place. Allow to cure. Should be good.

[@PapawCulberson]

Nobody in their right mind would use JB Weld to secure a press fit oil pump pitch up tube. Either the tube gets replaces or you swedge the tube to fit securely. Then tack Weld it onto the pump.

[@markwitkop7022]

@@PapawCulberson yup. Now you've got it. 🤪

[@tonybernheim8365]

Mr. JB Weld Mark...Geezer Auto Repair...Justice Brothers Fixes...

[@SunsetValleyRanch]

Yes. This is a known problem with those. Braze or weld that pickup tube on there. It should be hard as heck to put that tube in the pump. If it's not, make it that way. The oil pressure falling off the way it did was because when the engine is off, the oil level is high. You start it and the oil in the pan drops below where the pump and sump tube meet, and it starts sucking air. Seal that up, and you're good.

[@filibertobarrera7672]

Usually when oil pressure drops at idle,it's usually bad cam bearings,but yes this Is an odd one.

[@oldbiker9739]

good find , that engine is lucky it didn't fall off and rattle every brg lol

[@WrenchingWithKenny]

Right !! Coulda been a disaster !!

[@squarefour1]

Glad you found it. Thanks for sharing. I have never witnessed that happen but always tack the pickup when I find one not done. Good save

[@EnglishTurbines]

The drop in negative pressure at idle would be enough to allow air into the oil feed causing the pump to cavitate at idle...and no oil pressure... You're right. Shocking mechanical design when you think it could wreck the entire engine potentially....🤔😳😏😏😏🇬🇧...Maybe it's a GM sales drive?

[@starbattles1]

Not so shocking, it's a chevy remember. This is my 2nd s10. I've had a LOT of Fords. Never have a problem like this.... This thing is hard as hell to work on too. Like he said, the oil sending unit is a rean pain in the ass, and the oil pan....OMG. Removing the entire front wheel hubs AND the frond Diff is insane. Just for an oil pan. I have a spark plug I can't remove because the steering column is blocking it. I don't know if that plug has ever been changed in 150k miles. I can't trust a shop won't just skip it either. No knuckles or bolts visible for removing the steering column shaft either. I see no way to change that damn plug. Stupid GMC/chevy garbage. Anyone want to buy a clean 1995 sonoma 4x4 extend cab with 150k miles?

[@Vincent-k5e]

Safety wire it on its very EZ

[@Marlosproductions]

Kinda having the same issue can you get ahold of me so I can ask you a few questions

[@WrenchingWithKenny]

sorry to hear your having problems. Kenny suggested you go on Facebook Wrenching with Kenny (be sure to answer all the questions to join) input all the info about your vehicle & what you have done to fix the issue. There are a lot of techs and automotive people that may be able to help. You can try our FB group, Backyard Mechanics (3.8K members) they can help too. Let us know what you come up with. Keep wrenching!

[@michaelcash3323]

I had a 4.3 that would do something very similar. Ended up having a rear cam bearing spun in block. No noises but it would just drop off after got hot. Put shop air in sending unit tube with intake off and sure enough you could see it bubbling between bearing and block.

[@bobbrinkerhoff3592]

Years ago I had a 262 V8 out of a Monza that lost oil pressure on me . Shut it down and coasted to my girlfriend's place . Went to leave it had oil pressure , WTF ? It had split the rear cam bearing . 43 years later I have never seen it again .

[@acemay3]

my 4.3 just did the same thing but it has 400k on it spun a cam bearing

[@terryenyart5838]

I use loc-tite sleeve retainer (Green) and I spot weld it as I want a great seal. Not all require loc-tite, if they press in hard enough. Some aftermarket pick-ups for aftermarket pans don't press-fit tightly, hence the sleeve retainer loc-tite. Great find and you did a good job diagnosing the unusual issue.

[@laiky71]

Pickup was probably sucking down to the pan, then maybe you pulled air in from the loose pickup tube

[@streetstallion]

This is happening to my ‘67 mustang with the 200ci just got finished putting new rod bearings and mains in. Didn’t have to do the rings since the motor has 22k miles on it and has good compression. Everytime I drive it when it’s under operating temperature my oil psi stays at 40psi which is good. But when it gets hot (to operating temp) it drops to 20psi and when I brake at a stop light it drops all the way down to 0psi and when I made the complete stop it jumps back to 20psi. I’m hoping this is my issue because this project was very time consuming and they barley make parts for my original engine anymore

[@glennmanchester5696]

That sounds like it's simply low on oil when braking the oil sloshes to the front of the pan the pump sucks air for a few seconds then when you stop the oil goes back to original level and it picks it back up again or another thing to check is the oil pump drive that runs off of the distributor on some ford's they had issues w them slipping good luck w it ..

[@wisconsinwoodsman1987]

I am in the process of replacing the pan gasket on my 2002 4WD Sonoma. OMG, I had no idea how much stuff I'd have to remove to get the pan down. Did the same thing you did. I had to take upper control arm off driver side so I could barely get a socket on the upper diff mounting nut. Not a fun job. I will def check my pickup up tube and maybe give it a couple of zaps with my welder to keep it firmly connected.

[@freedomtrucker2332]

Geez man ..it’s been 4 months now ..did you get it figured out??

[@KevinCoop1]

I had a Silverado 1500 pickup with a 4.3L in it. With 10K miles, I noticed the oil pressure was fine until I hit the brakes hard. The pressure would drop to zero, then come back up. The dealer pulled off the pan and found the same exact thing except the tube had pulled out of the hole. They fixed it. They welded the tub to the body. Never had happen again. Bought 5.3L ever since.

[@sirmister4411]

We used to weld them on our race cars so they wouldn’t move or fall out. but I’m old maybe they don’t do that anymore

[@stew_baby7942]

No resolve...oh what a video

[@aprilgeneric8027]

this guy solved the cavitation issue but not the air issue: Small block Chevy oil pump maldo72 5.91K subscribers 67,279 views Jan 30, 2023 Small block Chevy oil pump

[@geraldcharles1624]

Did that fix the problem?

[@Raufrshaikh]

My innova 2007 is given backcompressure but no oil conjumption and no power loss.. Only some knocking on idle .. On acceleration no knocking...Pls reply...

[@JaneyLynnStudio]

Where's your conclusion??? I have the same problem. Did the oil pump fix it?

[@tonybernheim8365]

Yep..oil pump press fit oil pickup tube..Weld/Braze...Mellings makes a great performance OP when your already dropping the pan for this..Cant trust some of these reman engine companies..Recon the worst from Autozone days..geez....

[@bud5084]

I had two Oldsmobiles in the 80s with the 231 v6 engine. Neither lasted 100000 miles. Both were crap. I never owned another GM product.

[@goenitzlopez2076]

Some sort of.machining defect on that. Ive installed new pumps on those engines and gotta transfer over the pickup tube and those things are incredibly TIGHT on there.

[@bentboybbz]

This is a 350 ? Ls ? Nevermind I'm slow, ls has pump at front of the crankshaft lol...ive heard about those pickup tubes sometimes coming loose, not from any particular circumstances, seems that they just weren't attached very well at the factory, I've seen one myself, I wonder how many sbcs have been deemed worn out or ruined by people thinking it had lost pressure, the one I saw personally was in enough to have 18 to 25 psi at 2500rpm but zero at idle, pulled the pan to see if a bearing was gone and found that, I've seen similar on two Ford straight 6 300ci also...and earlier ls 5.3s can have the o ring fail on the pickup tube also, you would think we have solved the issue by now but 😂

[@dans_Learning_Curve]

2006 Suburban. 4X4 Would loose oil pressure when hot. Changed: 1. Pressure sensor (checked screen) 2. Pickup O-ring (old one good) 3. Oil pump (old one good) Yes, I dropped the front differential and oil pan. I don't know what he eventually did with it. It did have a lifter tick. I'm wondering if the cam bearings were wiped out bleeding oil out? I believe the millage was around 150k. He wanted to sell it. He pondered disconnecting the alarm, which I didn't approve of, but theLow oil pressure alarm was interical to the sound system. Anyone have any insight?

[@bobv6252]

Do you have to lift engine to get pan out.

[@WrenchingWithKenny]

Yes

[@pauljanssen7594]

That's a press fit pickup no oring needed if the pickup is put on and most guys tack weld the pickup on so it doesn't come out

[@44hawk28]

The O-ring seal that goes into the oil pump from the pickup tube is a known problem as is the oil pressure relief valve right above the oil filter on them. I've seen people actually take the oil pressure relief valve off of the oil pan and replace it with a M 14 by 1.5 oil drain plug with Teflon tape on it.

[@WrenchingWithKenny]

Interesting, I will have to keep that in mind. Thanks for watching!

[@A71-c6v]

Your talking about an LS engine There’s no print on the small blocks

[@Badeau68]

You are correct 💯

[@stevea6722]

@@A71-c6v True statement. Seen several Gen 1 SBC with the pickup tube brazed in the oil pump body to prevent this.

[@nathandevine552]

There is no oring on this engine

[@crautoguy8384]

Those engines For some reason have always had oil pump problems the 43 and the 57 I think At 1 time the dealer even said there was ATS P about using 3M roll off pads to Being gaskets was the problem but then they used those plastic ones with the same abrasive basically. I think just put in a good mellings oil pump And either attack well or use sleeve retainer or even some good right stuff silicone on the oil pump pick up Problem fixed

[@dans_Learning_Curve]

1997 Honda Accord struck a deer. The impact was enough to break the windshield washer nozzle! But if the pickup tube was still in the pump, but loose, may not be from the impact.

[@stanleyness7230]

I know my oil tube o-ring split.oil press.dropped less than half instantly after change.wrong oil,used oil for diesel.

[@markhuyette8509]

That's why people weld them in and I had a engine that 350 from a rolled over truck and it was just the opposite way to much oil pressure and blew the one peace rear main seal out

[@stoneyhoney]

Im so irritated as I just did the oil pain gasket but it is what is is! 🥴 thank you for this video

[@lylachristopherson865]

Well, Crap. I might as well replace the oil pump while I'm in there, anyhow, DAMMIT.

[@danoakes8680]

That oil pick-up tube. That is why we old timers secure the pick-up and tach weld the unit to the pump body. Just saying, the old school guy.

[@John-viheavyequipment]

I have a 2013 f-150 3.7 naturally aspirated, 102000 miles, its runs great has lots of power, but once its warmer 20+ mins of running if you come to a stop and put it in park it has a roughness it''ll be like smooth then every like second 2 it'll stumble then smooth then stumble, in drive at idle it is so smooth you cant tell its running but if you put in park smooth then miss,smooth then miss, I've had it to ford many times, they ran injector cleaner, and replaced spark plugs, smoked the intake for intake leaks couldn't find anything ive done a ton of maintenance and the fluids are good new air filter, new mass air flow sensor just bugs me a lot but they say they can fill it but can't find anything. they tested fuel pressure and which was good and did a power balance and said its normal, but i've been in other trucks and the idle is super smooth in park or in drive with the break on. so just wondering if you had any ideas

[@michaelspeakman8924]

You may want to make sure that it's not the oil filter gasket. You may have double gasketed. Or there may be a plastic on the oil filter. I knocked a round pin through mine it is a expanding pin never had any problem with it after that

[@larryw5429]

This has been a issue for a long time. Most guys that build engines tac weld this tubes on for insurance!

[@Agilepickleunite]

Good luck with that ones cast ones not that’s a head ache

[@frankromero4048]

The oil cooler lines are supposed to be replaced when you swap engines... Not that, this was the problem... Just thought you should know...

[@williammiller2750]

Common issue with Chevy engines. I always Braze or tack weld a bead on the pickup tubes.

[@MariarioztMDreeeee]

Got S10: Chevrolet 2.2 4 cylinder 1999 5 speed Ls got problem the oil Pan got liltle be oil coming and the from where the got the gaskets coming under dumper got me thing like 1 half oil like round 4 mont the time thing can put anything to stop the oil coming from thader in no want take out the oil Pan to much work son people tell me can put like Black silicone any want can let me know please thank you

[@intuberably]

6 quarts! Check under the sender for a pulsation device. Remove and discard it.

[@10hunterLab]

If your going to the trouble and expense of replacing the pump, not welding the pickup to the pump is just plain dumb.

[@luisvega8189]

What’s your take on an oil pressure gage rattling back and forth at 40 and drops to 20 while driving. Loud ticking sound. Is it the Oil pump?

[@nathandevine552]

Oil pumps don't usually go bad....there very well lubricated

[@enriqueoliva6988]

My 85 Camaro z28 305 CID will drop oil pressure when at operating temp.

[@oldschoolcars3318]

Cliffhanger! You never told us the outcome! I have an 03 with 135K on it drops below 20

[@jammy46235]

I’m guessing the tube was pressed for and not welded or soldered dumb design really anything can go wrong

[@gadasavideos8564]

Certainly would have been nice to know if the screen was the problem. Of course changing pump muddies the water.

[@donames6941]

My 305 pick up screen did fall and screwed up some rod bearing i did a complete overhaul cam and bearing too and at a idol its 10 psi and thats with a high volume pump got 700 miles on it now highway speed i get 45 psi

[@The0utmode]

Not all oil pump pickups are made the same is is very likely that if you check it with a micrometer the the tube is too small and never fit tight from factory.

[@flipinjon7487]

Check the oil valve next to oil filter it's looks like a bolt it's above where the oil filter screws in

[@mrregal5662]

Always put a new pickup screen never reuse the original and don't just pound it in use the right tool to press 👍

[@chehystpewpur4754]

if youve ever replaced an oil pump its not that common. its not a perfect seal and their made to really only go into an oil pump once. yet pickup tubes get reused to save money. the ls motor has a new design thats not a press fit. its very common to lose oil pressure withing 100k miles. the o ring that seals the pick up tube where its bolted in is usually nicked and then splits and does the same thing. ever do a transmission filter? same thing happens the seal gets nicked and the trans sucks up air and destroys the transmission. press fit pickup tubes suffer the same fate. many people weld them in place after they position them properly. this is why.

[@JasPlun]

Did not see an O-ring on the pick-up tube unless that model does not have one. Never seen one that did not have an O-ring and that certainly would explain it.

[@tedslife7086]

My 496 is doing this right now and it sucks ..I hope I did not destroy my motor by driving it

[@inhocsigno9151]

Interesting failure. At higher rpm there is more suction which seals the pickup tube better. Then at idle it works loose due to vibration.

[@Roadrash-fk9rn]

Nothing new here, I was welding pick up tubes 50 years ago.

[@lemans3507]

I braze the pick up tube just so this doesn't happen, I also believe this guy makes these problems just to make videos.

[@moonmullins6359]

not going to be an issue is the tube is correctly installed. how many million chevrolet engines were produced with the tube pressed into the pump body.

[@Spiritof_76]

Pioneer makes a bracket to hold the pickup to the pump without welding or brazing it.

[@kotjmf1968]

I would think that should be an interference fit of the pickup tube into the pump. I would think it is sucking air. What a trip.

[@WrenchingWithKenny]

Yea. It's a press fit. I got it pressed in place and tack welded !

[@stuartowens3506]

@@WrenchingWithKenny, was that the fix?

[@DavidMarlow-e7c]

45 yrs ago had thehe same thing on bbchevy all new no oil 4:21 ptessure the pick up was lose After I tack 4:21 welded ever one since maybe over kill but better than pulling the engine or oil pan afer it's in

[@Mike44460]

I disassembled new oil pumps, cleaned and reassembled, and took no chances. Don't trust anyone.

[@craighatfield6391]

Pickup is press in one time use. Replaced oil pump without replacing pickup. Will never fit right

[@peterwill3699]

Hi,didn't they use to weld suction tubes in chevys to avoid that problem ?