Curious, you done a static current draw test, on the 2nd visit?

I’ve just used four of those connectors to make repairs on two different cars. We have had no issues. Based on what I am seeing, they didn’t heat them sufficiently for the solder to melt. You must have good lighting, and you need to watch the copper connections, making sure that the solder thoroughly penetrates both sides. My diagnosis is those connectors were not heated to the point that the solder melted. They are not easy to use correctly, but when used correctly are a reliable means of joining wires.

When we think we seen it all. Nice work Kenny.

Maybe you should have explained that the cap of the brake reservoir should be removed to allow the air to escape when the fluid returns to the master cylinder. You know what the wonderful public are like 😇

Oof yeah that doesn't sound good. You're probably right. The guy thought he was getting a good deal, but he not good at diagnostics. He doesn't want to pay? Guys who don't pay get better at figuring it out. The only time i go to a mechanic is if i need help figuring out out or because i just want parts changed. But now i don't even go to a mechanic.

PATS?

17:40 wouldn't Seafoam help break that nonsense up?

I’m pretty sure I gave the wrong size nut on the stud I’m working with. It’s halfway threaded on. The hub cap was covering the lugs when I bought it. 2 months later and I’m ready to change to new rims, and sure enough it won’t budge and I don’t want to church it up. I’ll give this a whirl. 😅

They work well if you buy professional ones like TE Connectivity Polyolefin Solder Sleeve and follow the manufactures guidance but they're x10 the price of Chinese ones. Solder sleeves are used in avionics so they can't be bad.

Run from it

Always loved Chevy and ford pickups. My problem is not with the mechanics of them, it's the fact that they start rusting in 5 years and the body looks like crap plus the small things that always break. Window regulators, hazard light button, turn signals and so on. Very annoying for the price of the truck. I have a 98 camry and everything works and no rust over 300k

I just use solder, flux, a dab of dielectric grease over the bare soldered connection...with a long piece of heat shrink... seems to work well enough. Idk...

I've never replace the crush sleeve when replacing the pinion seal. I can't say how many pinion seals I have replaced but I will say it's a lot. I set many 9" Ford gears for IMCA and USMTS Modifieds and I have hammered the old crush sleeves out so I could set the preload on new gear sets. Never had a failure. Thanks for sharing.

I didn't see a benefit to adding fuel treatment. Change your fuel filter if you have an external filter that's a must. The only time I clean my fuel system is when I have a noticeable drivability issue like surging a lean condition a rough condition etc. I use an OTC fuel injection cleaning system with OTC fuel injection cleaner. Does the trick every time. A good top end cleaner for carbon build up and a throttle body cleaning and your good ass new.

I too have seen cars with bad o2s smoke like a 5.7 oldsmobile diesel

I’m not surprised at all. Most mechanics and body shop guys do shoddy work.

If, If…the dealer allows you to do a pre-service inspection. They, usually don’t

I feel mine at 45 mph in my seat vibrations. Had tires balanced and even put new drive shaft in. I'm thinking might be front drive shaft. Probably tomorrow will pull that shaft out and drive it and see if it does it.

No wiring loom manufacturer would use solder ever.

great tip

It takes just as long to solder a wire together as it does to use a connector like this that has such a low melting point with the solder. It’s worth it to just solder I’ve found less worries.

Mr Kenny, do not Condemn these connectors. Just have to be used properly..... I use them often in my old radio restorations, excellent connectors when used correctly!

So as a ex car stereo installer (now a NICET certified low voltage commercial fire alarm guy), the best fix is to strip 3/4 inch off both wires and then twist them together, then use a pencil torch to solder them together. Yes, you did use the proper hot glue heat shrink. Only the factory duel curl type crimps like in Amphenol connectors is worthy, the barrel crimps are hit and miss where the wire can often also just pull out under tension. If it's gonna get wet, solder the wires so they can never just pull apart IMHO.

Old oil is better than no oil. Lol. Most recommended oil change points are way before the oil actually gets to a point where it isn't benefiting the engine. Like the best buy date on foods. Oil doesn't immediately go bad right past the date and/or mileage. Always check to make sure you can fill it before draining it. Because if you have to, you can easily run on that old oil for a quite a while longer till you can get the equipment, tools, products, etc to know you have everything to fill before you drain. I just did an oil change on a '19 jetta that was 2 years and over 20k miles PAST due. The oil looked just as would have if I had changed it at the due point. So TLDR : Don't lose sleep if you are just due but can't fill the oil that day just don't drain it and figure out how to fill it before you drain it.

I payed over $20 for a small assortment box and used 3. None of the 3 connections were good. Threw that $20+ in the trash.

1. Problem is not install right like others said. 2. Lighter and other flames shrink and often melt the tube before the solder even starts to melt. 3. Even heated right, the Solder doesn't have enough Flux to clean off wires with heavy oxide layer etc. 4. Many blame X connector but X connector wasn't made for Y condition like Scotchlok "Vampire Taps" was never design to be use any wet areas. 5. Copies of 3M and other Branded products have many problems to make them cheaper then original parts like counterfeit IDC parts fails to cut thru insulation right or cut the wires too.

Free diagnostics? There is a lot of time, experience, and knowledge in diagnosis. Some people…

was starting to take you seriously but after condemning a part and not the obvious installer error, I regress

I’ve used these on several ocasionas and have noticed that it takes a decent amount of heat to melt the solder, to the point that the heat shrink is almost melted. I then have to use electrical tape or more heat shrink to strengthen up the connector. Once I use up my supply will go back to twisting and soldering without connectors. Good video.

Just pay the money if you can't fix something. It makes life easier. My 2010 Mazda6 needed a serpentine belt. I looked at it and said 'No way!'. I watched two mechanics struggle for half an hour to put it on. Money well worth spent.

Them Germans really know how to design a car

That was a great story. Wow! How it didn't destroy everything. I learned a lot about teflon tape.

When I reinstall a drain or fill plug that is of a dissimilar metal than the metal of the case it's being screwed into, I like to lightly smear a little anti-seize on the threads. The thing to remember when doing this is that you'll be using a wet torque value, which is less, and not the OEM dry torque value when retightening the plug.

Like hooking up an IV to a dead man

Where do you get those crimp connectors ?

I am the same way if i cant put fluid i won't tutch. Same qith the full sealed trans like that honda

If you look at the cluster closely, the will be a faint glow of the lights. Get to the board and give it a good scrub. They build a scale that will cross the terminals

What type a drill bit is that??

If he brought the truck recently, I bet the instrument cluster was changed to reflect lower mileage than actual,the truck will not start until reprogrammed, the original cluster is tied to the vin number and theft system. I know this because I have worked on these Ford trucks made between 1998 and now . Also if the odometer is not showing the cluster it will not start. It's a common problem on these trucks.

Techron is a good product. I have been using it for years and have personally seen it clear up a P0420 code on a Subaru Outback. Acceleration off idle smoothed improved as well.

Thanks for the tutorial, FYI you can use the old seal to tap the new one in. Regards!

I ask those type of customers if they work for free.

Ford should be recalling and replacing these. But they'd rather have unhappy owners than spend the money. Awful!

This is an easy repair except on the Z71 trucks. Or at least the Z71 regular cabs anyway. There is an extra tubular brace that begins right behind the torsion bar mounts and you can’t get a new mount in on the driver side without actually removing the torsion bars and crossmemeber. There just physically isn’t enough room. PITA. Aside from those models this is a pretty straightforward thing and this video is a definite help.

What is bad with the alternator.

Interesting - this video from Haynes says the exact opposite - "To aid insertion, the gap in the spring clip should be facing down": kzbin.info/www/bejne/jme1gKhtg6yopaM

crazed performance repair has some good recommendations for LS swap modding for racing.

Dollar store pipe cleaners or walmart. battery terminal cleaner works, plumber pipe brush

I have had to chisel filters off on cars where the last mechanic did not lubricate the filter seal. On a 67 Mustang V8 and a 66 AMC American 6 cyl. BTW when you see bearing material on a drain plug you should not have to check any further.

lol. I’m thoroughly convinced that many people just surf YT looking for reasons to whine and gripe simply because they have miserable lives and want to try to drag everyone down to their pitiful level. Did this mechanic properly fix the problem? Yup. Did he introduce any foreign debris into either seal? Nope. Was this on some show car that’s going to have mirrors under it? Would you eat off of it? No to both, but nobody cares but the little whiny basement dwellers looking for anything to gripe and try to get a little attention. Excellent job to the mechanic. You helped me a bunch with my upcoming project. Your description and methods were excellent and helpful. Seems too many worry about visually appealing than they are mechanical soundness, and your methods achieve that. Ignore the haters. Nothing will ever make them happy.