New Crete Concrete Resurfacer Review

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[@alexcloyd9620]

I appreciate how you opened yourself up for criticism. Interestingly, videos like this actually do help in seeing what hitches one might come across the way.

[@philindeblanc]

very true

[@HLMcCoyEnterprises]

Hi Jayden, I have been doing concrete resurfacing over 20 years. First, let me say; that was a nice video. Now, one thing about having a great outcome to any resurfacing project is a clean mechanical bond. My technique is: 1). I use a grinding disc even out the floor surface. Also this will remove any unstable concrete at the surface level, which may come up later an cause bond failure. 2). Clean the surface, just like you did in the video, which will remove dirt, grease and any loose scale, which again, can cause bond failure. 3). One thing that I ALWAYS do after that is to apply a prime coat of concrete polymer or bonding agent. This will help to assure good adhesion and will also slow down the rapid set of your product that you are applying. Concrete can act like a sponge in soaking up the moisture in the resurfacing product, even an interior floor. Typically, you want to get back on the floor before 24 hours so that your resurface will properly bond to the bonding or priming material. Some types of polymers (Bonding Agent) are what is called non-rewetting, meaning that after the 24 hour window, it will not allow water penetration or a proper bond to the bonding material. (Many people skip this step and still have good results but this is just how I do my projects because longevity and great adhesion is important to me. 4). Time to mix: No matter what the product is, I always add a little of the bonding agent that I primed with into the mix, again, just my preference. When mixing, always put your liquid in first. Then slowly add the dry powder, while mixing. Once it is thoroughly mixed, let it rest for about 2 to 3 minutes. This will help dissolve any dry lumps in the mix. After that time, remix for about 30 seconds to a minute. Also, I like a more flowable mix. It is much easier to apply. I recommend a tool called a Magic Trowel. It looks like a window washing squeegee. Then, pour your material out in a long narrow stream on the floor and move it along with your Magic Trowel, keeping the trowel at about a 30 degree angle. If you try it, it will be apparent how to adjust your trowel. Always work from one side to the other until you cover the entire floor. Keep a wet edge, this means, don't let your edges dry up on you before you trowel more product next to the last strip that you troweled previously. I'm not sure if any of this is helpful to you but thought I'd outline the process that I have been using for years with good success and no failures. Hope This Helps, Lee

[@benjiang6493]

Will this resurfacer work in canada winter? Like -20c 😂

[@teresaulian9180]

Thanks. I want to resurface next to concrete stairs on a 1935 house. I will prime it.

[@McNeelyMegan]

Wow amazing comment! Thank you for taking the time for others, even though his project was already done Love when people actually add tips instead of unnecessary comments

[@davep6989]

Right on the label you show: "Add material WHILE MIXING." You didn't do that. Add it more slowly and do it while running the mixer at a slow speed. Then once it's all added speed the mixer up slowly and be patient until it transforms into a pancake batter consistency. Getting the mix right is essential to getting good results. Also, make sure the mix is stored in a cool place prior to mixing and use COLD water to get the 30 mins working time. Time yourself mixing (no more than about 3 mins) and don't overmix. Good luck.

[@SSingh-xy2yz]

DIYers are always alone!!.

[@PapaSmurf63B]

Watching this video makes me look like a professional

[@davelarson2663]

Lmao!

[@Bembesito]

Exactly

[@rdfox1]

It’s absolutely not a failure. No one has ever done a project for the first time and came out with perfect results. I’ll bet my farm that the next time you do this, it does come out beautiful. Thanks!

[@ayanastaytrue]

You have to gradually add the resurfacer while mixing, not dump it in all at once

[@josephcade3541]

On the broom, must clean it on every pass with the hose and go slow and gentle. On the lumps, poor in another bucket using a house strainer. Than push all the lumps through strainer., before using strain again. I want yo Thank you for Having the courage to show mistakes because i find although few in number these are the better videos. You learn more from them. Everyone makes mistakes but only the wise learn from them

[@timkrouse345]

You DEFINITELY got that broom finish 😆

[@georgebrewer7650]

My feedback- you should not use the broom to work through big puddles of the mix. You should have poured the mix on the perimeter and pulled it back with the spreader. If you have practice with drywall compound that would set you up for how to spread evenly. Once you pull it back from the perimeter and have it spread out then you brush. Always pull your strokes in the same direction. Never shovel motion like pushing snow. Honestly, if you're up for improving it...all you need to do is buff it with a concrete grinding disk and call it a day. Bonus points if you grind and resurface again. Practice working drywall compound first!

[@benrob31]

As others have said, best practice is to slowly add the New Crete to water while mixing (a friend helps here). Second thing that really helped me (can be done regardless of the amount of water used) is to thinly pour mixture onto the floor and use drywall knife to chop through the remaining lumps. Essentially this is spreading the new crete out a bit before you trowel/brush it out.

[@ed6347]

Sift

[@cfmill74]

Several things I see here. One, grinding the original surface to open the concrete. Two, a primer to increase bonding and create a barrier from potential oils in the concrete from ghosting through. Three, use a different paddle to mix. Eggbeater is good. And yes, slowly add the product. Four, Use a magic trowel to spread it like a window cleaner would use a squeegee. Five, top coat it with a clear urethane sealer. Two coats. Six, I would have filled in those spalled places with Cement All and then the New Crete. Seven, I would have chased those cracks, and opened them up with a v-blade diamond grinder and filled them with Cement All or a two-part epoxy crack filler made for that. Great you tackled that. It was a tough job.

[@ensignj3242]

You might consider grinding it with a 7”grinder to smooth out the lumps. And then sealing it.

[@danieljohnson2248]

Never seen anyone work in PJ's before. Thanks for posting the vid.

[@Federalist2159]

Thanks man. I've always been a "if it can go wrong, it will" thanks for showing how it could go wrong

[@willywinket]

Thank you for the video. Sure helps to see these rather than relying on the printed instructions alone. I used a smaller spiral type mixer attachment with my cordless drill and got decent pancake batter consistency. Also used a piece of board to scrape the sides of the bucket to make sure no dry material was stuck there. Ended up using closer to 4 quarts of water per box of material, too. All-in-all though, Newcrete is very hard to work with for a newbie, since it sets up so fast. Also, watching another video I realized I should have pre-patched the deeper spalled concrete areas and cracks with Cement-All and a trowel beforehand. Then used NewCrete only for a very thin "glaze" over the top of it all. Fortunately I have the rest of the driveway to do it right!

[@gregg9216]

Yikes! That came out butt ugly rough! Concrete doesn't lie so neither will I. I've done A LOT of resurfacing over the years, no substitute for experience from hard lessons learned but here's a crash course. First off, it's only as good as what it's sticking to, so thoroughly grind the old concrete, and I mean grind it down clean with a carbide wheel on the smoother areas (kicks off dust like 9/11, wear respirator and fans to blow it out and make the neighbors cry) or wire wheels where rough (usually exterior) then hose it out with a broom. Sometimes the product calls for dry floor to be primed first with a bonding agent, otherwise wet... and forget the caulk but chip out the cracks. Always shoot for in the shade, cool, cloudy day or in the evening as hot sun doesn't help. Can't have lumps like that so mix it fast and hard, don't be timid, move that paddle around (I use a 4 arm, seems to work), then get down on your hands n knees and trowel it on so it's flat and smooth, not that lame squeegee on a stick. Finishers prefer a 3"X14-16" lay down / burner trowel, in n out, up n down, away from you n towards you followed by a 5X20" finish trowel (round on one side, use square first to get it flat) side to side in wide sweeping motions, as far as you can reach out, slow, firm and steady. They only sell 4" wide trowels at Home Depot and Lowes, but whatever. The angle is important on hardening concrete, not this stuff so much, just keep the tools scraped clean n wet, constantly. And WHY? would you run a dirty-ass, covered in crud broom over it for a garage floor?! There's usually a window of time when you need to texture it with a broom or sponge. It's tough when you're new mix ridges up against the gooey older stuff like lava, but do your best to overlap, feather it in, a little water here n there. It'll never be totally perfectly smooth the first time over unless it's a small area and you get lucky so come back to scrape, grind and fill then tell 'em to paint it with that durable epoxy paint with chips to hide the imperfections. Better luck next time.

[@kebo57]

Excellent advice, but is certainly a hell of a lot of work.

[@BEasay]

Thank you

[@karlsmith2039]

Love the honesty. The video really helps me a lot.

[@justingreen4450]

I finished concrete for about 10 years. You did alright for a rookie. You should have kept stirring until all the lumps were out. Even if you need to use a board to smash the larger lumps. Also, you should have done smaller sections. If you would have took more time it would have turned out better. Your broom is not very good and you are brooming with too much force. You should have done it in like four sections. Hammer drilled some 1x4s down to make some nice control joints. Thanks for the video.

[@psnewsauditor-az5244]

Patch spalling areas and cracks 1st

[@tigerfriend2000]

So assuming someone did something similar.....uh not me of course. What would be the right thing to do now that it's messed up?

[@MMGJ10]

@@tigerfriend2000 cover it in an epoxy coating! Lol. Depending on how bad it is. 😆

[@FredVanHook]

@@tigerfriend2000Lavinia 30” propane concrete grinder and grind.

[@TheStoneWhisperer]

It’s actually really good that you were so honest (mistakes & all) with your video because that’s how we learn. I just poured a new walkway today with this product & I had no issues with lumps. You do need to whip the material up really well. I blended that stuff up for 2 solid minutes before pouring. So you might have not just blended it long enough.

[@joeblow8197]

Gotta mix it longer and a little more aggressively to get the lumps out. Also when you were trying to broom over those piles of materials, that doesn’t work. You’ll need to flatten those out before you drag the broom on it. You could do a second coat and mix it a little wetter. It would clean it up quite a bit

[@RaulMedina-b3d]

Thanks for posting. Don't beat yourself up my man. Most people wouldn't even attempt to resurface a garage on their own. You motivated me to resurface mine. Thanks :)

[@siding8]

I think the PJ’s were the first problem then you needed more water.

[@westvalley411]

Thank you for posting, nice effort...live and learn. I now know mixing is critical and I learn from my mistakes...one thing about concrete, its permanent, not like working with wood!!

[@Area51ca]

You must be the most humble guy on youtube . The biggest problem you had with your project was how you mixed it then the tools you used to apply it . Knockdown the bumps /lumps and do it again. make or buy a Gauge Rake , and when mixing add your material slowly to water .

[@frednepa9690]

I did find some fault with, filling the cracks (especially with a caulk) and your mixing and applying it. Smaller batches applied by hand with a trowel would have been better. I applaud you for trying it. As a building maintenance employee I do have to say that I use Rapidset wall patch, concrete patch and just recently asphalt patch with great results.

[@Marianayellowbanana]

I had a hard time with newcrete the other day. But its super strong so decided to give it another shot. The mixing is crucial. Then start with squeege before the brush. I also did the rapid set cement before the concrete in some areas where i had cracks and the concrete went on so nice after that and i didnt need the bonding agent because the cement acted as a primer as long as u get the concrete on an hour after the cement. Im about to resurface my walkway and ill probably do cement first even with no cracks because im still learning and it made my concrete go on so smooth and nice without my little experience. I really like that product. I even used their rapid set asphalt today to fix some street potholes that the city has ignored and it looks professional

[@pjmazar4533]

Thanks for the well-done video. There are a lot of comments as to the mixing of this type of product. One thing for sure is that on a job this large, a helper is key to a successful outcome. What I do question was your decision to brush finish the surface. Garages, like basement floors, are done with a smooth surface while drives and sidewalks are brushed to prevent slippage in wet weather.

[@robertvandyke9781]

What I love about these guys. It takes balls to fail. You can learn so much from others mistakes. The only 2 mistakes I see is they use a huge heavy broom and they should have use a squeegy, and the had clumps..SO 2 big issues that cause a big fail. but the great thing is you should do it again bro with the 2 adjustments try another quickrete cap or some other overlay material and use SQUEEGY and dont use a broom and make sure smooth as butter and yu can over lay the garage again easy many people do layers. we want to see 2nd attempt the better way..amazing idea to learn from mistakes

[@rong9554]

I have used it, didn't get lumps but I added the flow additive which I think they recommend. anyways, lumps are from not mixing well enough. I think you can do another coat, over the top, hit the lumps with a hammer and break them up. good luck.

[@Obamaistoast2012]

I don't know all the circumstances, but I've had great luck with Rapid Set products.

[@anthonygiardino4245]

I use rapid set a lot, it’s very strong!! Typically you need to use little bit at a time, I would of spread it with a pool troll, everyone has there own technique, then wound of smoothed it out with a sponge, Like sections at a time, Good job tho man! Doing this king of stuff ain’t easy!!

[@jb-xj9ec]

Your paddle seems to be the root cause of your lumps. Also, as others said, gradually add the powder into the water as you mix; the combination of dumping the whole powder into the water pail and, what appears to be the wrong paddle for the job, is giving you the sad result. My recommendation: check out videos on how to mix concrete for beginners. Look at how it's recommended to mix concrete, and this will definitely help you on mixing this product. On a positive note, your prep is very good!🙂

[@Taz-ww8ss]

I agree and it’s need to be a little thener

[@DJPanamaJack]

Squeegee first and then use a broom trowel to smooth out the streaksbefore you get to far where you don't have to walk on your fresh work. Uses different type of mixer instead of the flat mixer, it may have helped with the lumps. You still did a good job regardless. Thanks for sharing this video..

[@ignaciotorres3359]

You sure got that river rock finish😊. Thanks for sharing your video, bro.

[@KarenHines-uz8yb]

Put water in container 1st then add concrete slowly while mixing -be sure to scrape sides of container. This will help to avoid small lumps in mixture

[@jeffetter5179]

You issue with the lumps is your mixing of the product. You really should put your water in the bucket first and mix the product into the water that will help you to ultimately have a much smoother mixture. It is also a very large area to do with the product you used amd without experience it is difficult to get a consistent blended texture with the diffrent mixes you needed to do.

[@mariosanchez6303]

Not sure if this has been mentioned, using a drywall mud mixing paddle is a bad idea. You can see how it pushes the lumps of powder around. The eggbeater mixer type is ideal since it will break down those lumps. It’s important to use the same cement to water ratio. The first batch was a thicker consistency than the second batch which was very fluid, almost like a self leveling. I’m surprised the product actually adhered, in my opinion the substrate needed more preparation.

[@TheBryanyingst]

Cool video bruh. I have never seen someone turn a smooth garage into a rough stone road before!

[@wisconsinwoodsman1987]

For those doing this, break out the loose chunks in the cracked areas and fill with Cement All first. THEN do the New Crete. Use a float to move the New Crete. You need to let the New Crete set up a bit before brooming.

[@mickey1472]

This is the only video I've ever watched on KZbin requiring two minutes of ads before the video even starts.

[@robhinchee3382]

Thanks for this! I am sure I could not have done better. Your video keeps me from trying it myself.

[@MichaelCarter-yq5cz]

You used the wrong material to fill the cracks. You poured the whole bag in before starting the mixing process. You did not use a float or trowel to lay it down flat and smooth

[@crimefreestruggles]

You didn't use the squeegee to spread it evenly then use the broom to create pattern.

[@tradz4199]

Thanks for your review and sharing both success & learning experiences! Much appreciated!

[@samanbalal824]

Heads up this guy has no idea what he is doing and it is completely wrong. I don't think the product is that bad! He had no idea how to mix it!

[@karllee8645]

Try adding mix gradually not all at once? Throw some Rust-Oleum concrete paint over it. Will make the look more uniform.

[@erikbogart676]

Always add a few inches of water to the bucket first, run it all through until all the dry stuff is gone and only lumps, if the bucket spins it needs water, if yiu can mix without the bucket spinning its good. Once only lumps are left you bring the drill down so the paddle is about 45 deg and let it flip the mud up a little and hit the air then the side of the bucket. This comes from someone who mixes a crap load of mortar, resurfacers, plasters, hot mud, ect. Then use a squeegee not a broom over a trowel floor. Any lumps that happen to get by which won't be many you can pull to you and trowel back into the bucket if needed

[@Maintenance63]

Buy a magnesium trowel and a rubber grout type trowel. Trowel it on in small sections. Do a 4x4 foot section. You will get better and better . Regardless, you tried, you learned, you are a successful person

[@alexchopper7997]

I just did my first resurfacing with this same brand with much success. As others have mentioned mix it in slowly and stir for a good 3-5 minutes so that it’s lump free and you want it to be a bit more thin and watery than how you mixed it here. Also next time skip the brush.. I just used a squeegee and didn’t even broom it and it came out perfect. It’s still slip resistant using only the squeegee. But If you insist on using a broom, get a new one and don’t use this jacked up broom lol, live and learn.. you will nail it next time brother!

[@brentwiens2652]

Will that work on a green slab after resurfacing with a grinder?

[@alexchopper7997]

@@brentwiens2652 If it’s green from paint, I would say as long as all the paint is grinded off then you’re good. In fact it will bond even better if you grind the concrete, as it will give it some teeth in the surface to grab on to. I noticed it’s the areas that I didn’t grind that didn’t stick as well and now has areas peeling & chipping off, but the slabs that I did use my grinder have no issues at all.

[@georgemcdonald2455]

Love your transparency! You're a good and honest, hard worker.

[@BEasay]

Great how a mishap can make for a really informative comments section. Thank you for the review.

[@Chromaburn]

Thank you for the video, how does it look now and how cold does it get where you are?

[@R900DZ]

Next time you mix it, have one person gradually feed it in with another person on the drill keeping it spinning; that should help with the lumps. Also, getting one of those egg beater type paddles would help.

[@emt.mikeflores7346]

Concrete try adding a little bit of concrete at a time while you're mixing it no don't just dump the whole bag and that's what made it Lumpy try to do it in quarters or 20% at a time just so that until each additional pour of concrete into the water becomes one free then you add the next batch by having all that it's like baking and flour if you put the flour in like that too much it gets lumpy but if you had it in little by little then you get a smoothie mix

[@bobaboey]

More water. And smooth it out with a trowel, then lightly broom if u want a textured finish.

[@professorg8383]

Well, I think people pointed out the things you did wrong. I watched you mix it and said, well, there's 90%of your problem! That aside, a couple other things jump out. One is using the "concrete caulk" For one thing, assuming compatibility between products is risky. No matter what brand you choose, you are always better off using the same brand of products. These are things designed to work together. These guys make a repair product called CementAll. It is part of their suite of products for concrete and what they recommend to use before applying this stuff. You mix a little at a time and apply with a trowel. Looking at how badly pitted some of your floor was, you would have benefitted greatly by using the CementAll to fill and level that area first as well as treat the cracks. let it cure and the next day, take an angle grinder with a medium course flapper disc and knock down any high spots around those repairs. Blow all the dust out before going further. As a couple people pointed out, you want to primarily drag this stuff rather than push it, so working from the edges toward the center is the way to go. For spreading, you want a squeegee They make some with sort of a thick rubber foam type blade. They work very nice for things like this. Don't put too much of this down at one time because its working time is short. The colder the water the better to slow the cure down a bit. Some have suggested using a bit more water, which will probably work as long as you don't thin it too much. Work in small batches so any overlap is on a "wet edge". Watch your time and you're probably better off using two people. One mixing and one applying. Have them mix another batch as you are getting close to done with the first. That will keep your tools wet with new product. I think most people that have problems with this stuff, get themselves overloaded thinking it behave kinda like paint. It doesn't. If you are wanting to get a broom finish, allow enough working time after you get it spread. I think using the proper squeegee will give you a nice finish without a need to broom it. This is a "Live and learn" product and it's always a good idea to try it in a test area first. Maybe on a small section of walk. That, "test it first" approach is good for a lot of things yo are using for the first time. It makes the larger application easier because you have a feel for how it works.

[@MA4TU2]

Thanks for sharing the video -very helpful.

[@mikegao8624]

I’d like to guess it’s the mixing paddle you used, it looks different front the ones sold for mixing concrete.

[@deemoe494]

We used this product and it came out perfect.

[@djjeffchurchill]

I won't repeat several others comments, but your #1 issue that led to your lumpy mix..... You used the wrong mixer.... Your flat paddle mixer won't get the mix ultra smooth and non lumpy.... Your needed to use the spiral type mixer in order to chop all the lumps out, as others mentioned, adding the mix slowly to water as you are mixing, not all the water into the dry mix as you did in your video

[@stilesoutdoors]

other videos ive seen about this product they make sure to state that you should lay it on thin, no more than an 1/8 inch. doesnt appear to be laid out even which may attribute to the brush streaks and inconsistency. aside from that good job. its in the garage so nobody is gonna notice the clumps.

[@Joefhimney]

Always Start Your Mix With Less Water And Add More Gradually Until You Get The Thickness You Looking For, When You Dump The Mix Into A Full Bucket Of Water It Doesn’t Give The Mixing Paddle Time To Break Down Each Lump While As They Form.

[@richemont86]

i would go over this with a grinder or sander and try to smooth this out man

[@juanalbertojimenez987]

No its best if he gives it a second coat instead of griding it if he grind its it would remove the whole thing

[@randywl8925]

One other thing, use cold water not luke warm water from a hose laying in the sun. Much more working time with cement products using cold water.

[@farmtruck9885]

The thing that jumped out to me was the mixing paddle, that style just pushes it around not mixing. The way you mixed it like most ppl have commented on. You were right operator error. Looked better before.

[@luismart9214]

Greetings, I hope you are well. How is the concrete doing at this date?

[@SeeTooStein]

The guy at Lowes did not recc. newcrete for driving surfaces. Thinking of using it for a 8x16 patio area though.

[@kgp4death]

you need a squigy and a broom, the squiggy spreads then the broom just puts on the texture

[@kblongespee9225]

I had to watch vid with no sound but did you use a concrete sealer afterwards? Could help the finisher look

[@eyestock9339]

Thank you so much for your experience and video!! Question!! Did you ask or discuss about Concrete Sealing???? I'm currently cleaning AND sealing a lot of concrete around house. I'm using silicone crack sealing AND then sealing the concrete surface as well. Just like you, I have a large area of pitted concrete surface that I too wish to Re-Surface. And I'm wondering if sealing the re-aurfaced area will help with the life of the ReSurfacing???

[@randywl8925]

I know this is a year oldand im not going to criticize, but i have a question. Why do these products say to use that ling handled squeegee? Iim thinking a flat steel finishing trowel would give a much nicer finish. I install flooring, so I'm thinking smooth. Im also thinking two applications. Apply the first one to fill in the voids, then as it hardens a little bit, scrape off any troweling ridges. Let it dry, then vacuum the heck out of it and apply the second coat. The second coat would go faster than the first one because all the small voids and pockets have already been filled. That squeegee might work in conjunction with a steel trowel. Have one person pushing the materisl around to get it where it needs to go, then the second person could just consecrate on smoothing the finish. This looks like a two person job anyway with one person mostly mixing and cleaning tools and buckets, the other doing the work.

[@LoniZdanowicz]

Add the concrete to the container first then the water, when you get the lumps break them up with a hand trowel when you add more water you weaken the product. otherwise not bad for your first time.

[@go5582]

Hi handsome. Great project. May I add a newbie tip: 1 clear all objects out of garage. 2 - go to home Depot and rent a cement diamond cutting vacuum and buy a diamond wheel to cut into and clean all cracks. 3. Pressure wash garage floor. Then it's clean enough to seal. ,Then fill with quality quick Crete from home Depot. Finally topcoat it. God bless you. P. S. Don't forget to buy crypto:XRP, XLM, XDC.

[@gvein6572]

We did this and no lumps. Not sure what went wrong but i mixed and poured and my husband smoothed and broomed. I think it was the water and mixing.

[@donetsk95]

Good try, my man. Got me laughing when you said you're real handy.

[@timfleischer6857]

I think maybe a good epoxy paint would have accomplished what you were after and it would have been mush easier.

[@chrhadden]

your mixing job was like me when they threw me in jail and i had to work in the kitchen. i was making instant mashed potatos in a big tub thing with a stainless boat paddle. i dumped all the fucking mix in at once and it was to heavy for me to mix it right. guys were trying to reat the stuff and they were choking clouds of unmixed instant potatos. the good thing was they never made me do it again. thats what you did wrong lol

[@ramoii]

It’s possible that you mixed more than you could safely use before it started setting up and then later in your video you were spreading it with your broom finishing tool instead of your squeegee.

[@jennifernelson4917]

A little more advice I wouldn't try to broom finish on top of a slick finish and then only do one drag the proper way to do it would have been to come over top that with a hand trowel and let it dry a little bit and then broom it was way too wet to or maybe I've done it a second time with a longer broom that way you get one stroke all the way from the front to back

[@DOPAMEEN_562]

Sandles won't let you work at your best. did you use a spatula?

[@mrphysh]

I agree with the comments; His amateur perspective makes the video more effective..... Add this: BE VERY CAREFULE WITH THE CLEANUP. The product dries very very hard.

[@philindeblanc]

You could also dry mix it first, then add water slowly, as mentioned. Dry mixing it helps the water absorb evenly.

[@reggaetony2806]

No never dry mix omg no . I'm concrete finisher 20 years. Always piss wet first then dry ..I'm the fastest finisher on this planet

[@ralph5450]

@@reggaetony2806 and the most modest.

[@philindeblanc]

some bags will have harder settled chunks and dry mix breaks those u. but I never dry mixed, I wuld have troweled it down, not broom.@@reggaetony2806

[@robertfullone9032]

muriatic acid. Id fill the cracks with jb weld. Your stuff shouldve worked as well. Did the crack fill smell like car bondo? Im crazy so I'd use RO water for mixing too though.😂 Honestly i would have just epoxy coated that floor.

[@BobbyJOnline]

Rent a sander then do a decorative Garage floor coating.

[@dinostigliano8888]

Has a Mason I can tell you you are using the wrong paddle on your drill two you need to use the squeegee part of it as you are putting it down then if you want to wrap it up and use the brush side put a bonding agent over it go over it again

[@chadhanak3179]

Should have used a different mixer and moved it around the bucket. Need to add to the water as you are mixing. Paddle mixer just moves the chunks around instead of breaking them up. Etching with muriatic acid is the way to go to prep. Fill gaps with cement all by rapid set and trowel smooth. Don’t just dump the product on, get it somewhat smooth with a float or trowel. Then broom. When brooming just drag the broom with no pressure across the surface. Want to rinse the broom every pass. Some chunks were from improperly mixing and most were dried up pieces that had been sticking To the broom.

[@godsmacking99]

Probably should have watched more how-to videos before trying something like this. It's not difficult, but if you don't do it right and try and take shortcuts, concrete work can quickly turn into a disaster and this job is a complete disaster. Can't even be saved, needs to be grinded down and completely resurfaced again or completely torn out and re-poured from scratch. Concrete is the kind of thing you don't want to jump into with a big project without any prior experience. Practice on a small area first, like a piece of sidewalk and if that turns out okay, then maybe you can tackle an entire garage floor. Rapid Set products are hard to work with if you're by yourself because it sets up fast, best done with at least another person helping you or two. If not and you only have yourself then it's best to only do a small amount at a time. Do not attempt to apply a whole box of the stuff by yourself. You'll run out of working time and that leads to panic and a mess of a job. It says 30 minute working time but you really only get 5-10 minutes max on a hot summer day because it's applied so thin so you have to keep that in mind when working with this stuff. You got to be fast.

[@toohottohandletoocooltomel4199]

It is not a product that is so easy to use you can do it in your bedroom slippers and pajamas.

[@dosam_6146]

🤣🤣🤣

[@cubex28]

Watch Mike Days KZbin video on resurfacing concrete similarly to your effort. He says he dies this often in the Northeast USA with great results!

[@diamond6256]

Looks good, I would have used a broom to brush in long brushes.

[@YooToobz]

It may have helped to have the paddle stirring in the bucket while simultaneously and slowly pouring in the mix. Not sure

[@bobbywebb7386]

for the cost of resurfacing, ( around $30 a bag/box ) i would have left it alone. your video helped me in making a decision whether or not to use this high $$ crap. think i will just let my concrete stay the way it is until i can get a pro to come out and remove it all and replace it. thanks for the video.

[@thomasbarker6833]

Firstly the drill your using is under rated.. either rent a mixer or use atleast a 1/2" corded drill to mix mud..

[@ZenHulk]

SO your review is how is it going to hold up in the future, and clear user error.

[@dford8874]

I do this professionally. First let me say concrete resurfacing is what we call a permanent temporary. The only true real way to get good concrete is to rip out and replace having said that if you choose to go this route this product does work if preparation is done right. I do a few extra steps in the process and the way I mix and apply. I also do other final steps to ensure that it remains for a period of time to ensure the customer gets their bang for their buck. Just be aware it's still 40% of cost vs rip out and replace

[@chikitito48]

Brother The Mixer You Use is The All Problem , An Ad More Water , Thats All i Do This Every Single Day and Im Sure thats The Problem , Have God Day ¡

[@vinceleto]

Do it again. Mix smaller batches. Use a squeegee to apply and you will have a smooth surface. Work the puddle with the squeegee, no stopping and dragging from a drying area. Honestly you could have repaired your original cracks and painted with deck and porch paint adding some sand in the paint for traction but to late for that.

[@jamesphillips7283]

You messed up 1st thing " DON'T JUST POUR WHOLE BAG IN WATER " start mixing then pour bag in slowly while mixing

[@knotallthere66]

Small paddle mixer slow add on materials ,love the harbor freight multi tool I used to buy two at a time . Sorry for end result ..

[@marcusaurelius7039]

Should have used Cementall to fill in those cracks and then the Newcrete.

[@tompassmore432]

Thanks for the video. I used this product as well and got some dark sections that didn’t cure to the light gray color like the rest of the garage floor. I see you have some dark sections as well. Did this ever cure to a lighter color or did it stay the same? Thanks!

[@Mtkbuilder]

Wondering about that too.

[@maniacmattmtl]

That was painful to watch. Also, if the floor is thay dirty it should be ground first.