New Zealand Electrical Items

[@TheEulerID]

The Australian and New Zealand socket format is based on a design patented in 1916 by Harvey Hubbell II, who also designed the standard US socket. He intended it to be an improved version to replace the US power outlet, and it has similar dimensions. However, it never caught on in the USA. The Australian government apparently chose that design as it was much easier for local manufacturers to stamp out the relatively thin, flat pins than the solid brass ones used on UK plugs (which was the old round pin standard at the time, still used in India).

[@bluedogdataelectrical6303]

Great video JW.. I am an electrician here in Australia and enjoy your videos.. we are lucky that here we share the standards with NZ with some mirror differences that are outlined in the rule book..

[@parkeerwacht]

I am a electrician myself here in The Netherlands. All the boxes and outlets are made in Germany. At leas what we get. Our Wires are made in Germany as well if I am correct. And the Pipes we use are made somewhere in the EU (doesnt say where I assume Poland) other items we use are mostly made within europe as well. Sockets and plugs are the standard european. In Europe there 2 main standards. What I call the normal type and the Belgium/France type. The main difference is that the normal ones have 2 tabs on the top and bottom of the plug and socket for earth. The Belgium/France type has a pin inside the socket which connects to a hole in the plug for earth. This type is also seen in Poland if I am correct. Most EU countries these days use the normal type. Sometimes even mixed. While I was in greece in the hotel we had 2 types of outlets. regular european ones, and a outlet with 3 holes (center hole is earth) There were some outlets in the room where we had that type. I don't know why they still put those in but I guess the normal EU type wasn't a standard to put them in. Allthough the 3 pin plugs have round pins right next to each other and the pins arent sleeved. soo if there partially inserted you could fry yourself. Well over there they don't care that much about electrical safety... I have seen weird stuff over there.... I saw a junction box opened. I could see the wires which were twisted together and insulated with electrical tape...

[@tonyjongerius9497]

What a trip down memory lane ,Iwas an apprentice and tradesman toolmaker at PDL through 80s and 90s so several of the 22, 56, 500 and 600 series switch gear had my name on the mould and press tooling. PDL is/was a GREAT NZ company. Clipsal and HPM our fierce aussie competition until all acquired in the early 2000s by schnieder electric. The old PDL 1960s 22 series bakealite switch gear is a bullet proof design still present in lot of NZ homes, its not surprising that you had no examples of its successor the modern looking 200 series, this range looked all modern with sharp edges an square look but its switch action was poor and always prone to wear and jamming, neither on nor off. The 500 and 600 series set things back on course with improved function and contemporary looks and the essence of these 20 year old designs is still evident today.

[@nychan8958]

Tony Jongerius yes was good . China sends it back to us now

[@nychan8958]

Tony Jongerius did you notice smelly baker lite on lamp holders lll

[@bjem2287]

Only problems with PDL 22 series are the lack of protection from dust and dirt, and the earth pin should have had better mechanical support to prevent it being bent out of shape.

[@busman2000]

It's pretty standard to have all your lighting control wires go to and from switches here and not ceiling roses. Hence the Loop termination. Saves going into hot dusty loft spaces.

[@RWBHere]

One big advantage of U.K. Twin, or Triple, plus Earth cable is that the bare Earth wire can be used to strip back the outer sheathing very quickly. Start with a short cut, grab the Earth wire with pliers whilst holding the rest of the cable in the other hand, and pull. Thanks John. Very interesting.

[@mikeZL3XD7029]

Our TPS cables are so easy to strip the outer sheath off, a 5 year old could do it, just nick the end with your "sideys" and open it up.

[@SeanBZA]

The socket with extra antenna outlet was for old Band I TV, which used a 300R ribbon feeder down to the set. Only later was a coax cable with the familiar Belling Lee "UHF" required, as this was transmitted on a sub 300MHz varrier. Beware of the Clipsal, the 10A rating is very optimistic, here in SA the same style but with SA outlets will melt themselves at under 10A continuous, though that could just be them being the cheapest thinnest brass you can get.

[@bjem2287]

+SeanBZA interesting, I've never heard of problems like that with Clipsal here.

[@kathyquinlan5922]

+SeanBZA Your comment is incorrect about Clipsal. Our 15Amp outlets have the SAME Active and Neutral sizes as the 10Amp versions. The Earth pin is wider www.clipsal.com/Trade/Products/ProductDetail?CatNo=439S15 It is not quite double width. Our 20Amp version has 3pins the same size as the 15 Amp earth pin. I come across a lot of backyard metal workers who have air compressors / Plasma cutters / Welding inverters that all need 15Amp plugs. A lot of places do not have 15 Amp outlets so they make up leads that have a 10Amp plug with a 15Amp socket (unless they have just bent / cut the earth pin). Over 20Amp plugs we move to the industrial weather proof range (used to be called the 56 series after Clipsal's IP56 range which all part numbers start with 56 ) The 56 Series has single and three phase plug / sockets from 10A to 50A in plastic bodies with pin configurations of 1P +N +E, 3P +E, 3P +N +E. Also available but not widely used are 3P +E +2 Control, 3P +N +E + 2 Control. The control pins had no fixed function, they could be an external switch contact, RS485 Data Bus (A Touring lighting system was set up this way and the lighting RS485 common was mains earth). Clipsal is extreamly popular in Au as its head manufacturing plant is in a suburb of Adelaide in South Australia (the factory Tour is great)

[@be.spiritlove]

My grandfather was a electrician so remember seeing most of these. The fuses where usually mounted on board and you had to make up the fuse box yourself. The socket with radio connection was I think TV (New Zealand used VHF) and this was the type of wire used to the TV aerial. Clipsal was a good brand and one of the light switches the actual switch unit pops out. Unlike the UK Aust/NZ don't have fused plugs so everything went back to the fuse board, fun days of tripping appliances. The wiring cable was far superior have all insulated cables but pulling though stud work was harder, remember it being a stiffer cable.

[@ZaphodHarkonnen]

Had a good giggle for 21 and 22 at 16:31 They're intended to be mounted 90 degrees anti clockwise to how you held them. So basically vertically with the ground towards the... well... ground. If I remember correctly the thinking, or at least the rumor, is so that if a plug is working its way out unexpectedly the last thing to lose contact will be ground as it's being pulled down.

[@azzabrow]

Those clear "soft" plastic shells on the back of the plugs are an absolute pain to actually fit on the plug/socket.

[@Ampera_]

Video Suggestion: I would love to see a comparison between different AC wall outlets/sockets and their plugs from around the world, and an apples to apples comparison for quality safety and overall design. I also as a bonus would love a pros and cons on them. If need be I can assist, but I am not sure how needed/wanted/trusted that would be. I just hate asking things of people and not offering some sort of help.

[@racer9x]

For number 22 the socket at 16:20 the damage to earth was likely caused by a bent earth pin. In commercial buildings professional cleaners would often bend the earth pin on vacuum cleaners, floor polishers or similar equipment portable equipment to help the plug stay in while they worked. Over the years this would gradually damage the earth on the socket with broken plastic and poor contact for the earth pin similar to what you saw on that socket. It is quite a common issue.

[@dalriada842]

That sounds like a good reason to have the beefier UK design instead. Even a young Arnold Schwarzenegger wouldn't be able to bend those.

[@Goabnb94]

Just in case anybody is curious, PDL was a New Zealand founded company (plastics and diecasting limited) that has since been acquired by Schneider Electrics, and a lot of other brands Schneider have acquired (eg Clipsal) go under the PDL branding in NZ now. Its still around and is quite ubiquitous. Similarly, HPM is an Australian company that has been acquired by Legrand, though not sure what it stands for. There were a few other brands featured in the video, like Arlec and Deta, but these are cheap and nasty stuff, the "home brand" of Bunnings, a home improvement/hardware store. Most electricians refuse to work with them for fittings and switchgear.

[@GAZZA55]

thats very true PDL factory was in Christchurch.

[@teravolt1195]

I like the way you keep viewing the plugs upside down, understandably as the UK plugs are that way. Note our AS/NZS standards say live is to be clockwise from the earth pin when looking at a socket. This holds true for your standards too.

[@mubd1234]

From what I understand, the piggyback plugs were taken off the Australian market because some fool fitted a male plug on the other end of the piggyback cord and plugged that end into the mains, which meant that the pins on the piggybacking end were left exposed. The bloke touched the pins, got shocked and died, which resulted in their ban. I think they're permitted again, with the proviso that they must be manufactured entirely as a single molded unit, with plugs and sockets fitted on both ends of the cords.

[@wateryblaze]

They are called suicide leads for the obvious reason but they do have a legitimate use. Quickly testing stoves without dismantling them. Turn off all the switches and elements on the stove. Plug in one end to the three pin plug on the stove and turn that switch on and do your insulation test with your megger, then plug the other 3 pin plug to a wall socket with an RCD fitted. Turn on ONE element at a time and test the controller and element operation. When each top element has passed its test, open the oven door and check each element and its controller, including the light and fan if fitted. Turn off the wall switch and remove the lead from the wall socket. Now you can remove the plug from the stove, roll up the lead and put it away in a safe place until the next stove needs testing. It is also a way to connect a generator to a house in an emergency BUT make absolutely certain that the main switch is turned off and no power can be fed back to the grid or you may kill somebody working on the power lines nearby.

[@josephking6515]

I bought an extension cable at Bunnings about 6 months ago with the _suicide plug_ but it was a fully enclosed molded unit. I didn't know that they had been banned or why. Interesting! 👍

[@davidpar2]

I’ve seen rewireable piggyback plugs for AUS/NZ available on eBay, manufacturer either Schneider PDL or Clipsal, I believe. Absolutely absurd to ban something because some nitwit was virtually too dim to exist and wired the piggyback plug with energized prongs exposed

[@mikeZL3XD7029]

@@davidpar2 Unfortunately, this is how things get banned these days. 1 idiot............

[@BensSightSoundandAuto]

There's nothing wrong with a piggyback plug when it's fitted at the line end of a cord

[@Madness832]

Interestingly, the AU-/NZ-style of plug & outlet was actually invented in the US. It was the first grounded (earthed) type, patented. When encountered today (sometimes in laundry rooms of really old houses), electricians often refer to them as "crowfoot" plugs/sockets (due to the shape made of the three pins, viewed head-on).

[@Lazarus7000]

***** Those are all different plugs to the AU/NZ plug. The pattern is similar but they are much bigger. There is indeed a weird old outlet that is identical in pin spacing to the AU/NZ plug. They were used for things which needed a ground before the standard plug we use now. They were/are also used for "security" type reasons; to keep people from nicking power or equipment (although the latter is a rather dubious idea; anyone can pop a new plug on whatever he's just stolen).

[@Madness832]

+Scott Lichtsinn Yes, you're correct about the 30 & 50-amp outlets. But I was referring only to the old outlets that would be directly compatible w/ the AU/NZ plugs.

[@bjem2287]

+Madness832 See US patent 1,179,728.

[@davidpar2]

Yes; it's one of Harvey Hubbell's original designs, which included the tandem prongs, parallel prongs (as seen in this vid), and "polarized" (prongs perpendicular to each other). Australia used a variety of (American) plug types before they standardized on the "crowfoot" type they now have around 1937

[@davidpar2]

The crowfoot plug is still used in America--sort of. On 277v, except that the ground is a round pin instead of flat prong, the same pin as on the standard American grounded plug

[@SproutyPottedPlant]

I like that! Aussie plugs are really nice.

[@FrancisLitanofficialJAPINOY]

Knuckles the Echidna Also Chinese 3 pin outlet. Need to use 3 pin Aussie plugs in China instead of 2 pin plugs. You can plug 2 pin Aussie plugs into US/Euro Chinese universal 2 pin outlets in China.

[@nicholasvital8345]

This is nz electrical items btw Australia and New Zealand have the same plugs.

[@adamamner713]

Is there a difference in New Zealand plugs and Australian plugs

[@gvvq-pi5ml]

Hi JW, i think your Videos are great, i only discovered them about 2 weeks ago, think i have watched them all now...hope you keep them coming....Fred Nr Chelmsford, Essex...uk.

[@wateryblaze]

Part No. 2 is called a "tapon" and the switched tapon had an extra rivet visible from the pin side and was as you say used for plug in thermostats and time switches as well as remote "off/on" switches. Part No. 21 was manufactured in the immediate post war era probably in Australia or the UK as I don't recognize that style from my apprenticeship days starting in 1966. It may have been a Neeco (National Electrical and Engineering Company) brand. Part 28, 2 "dolly" or flush-plate screws were 6/32 UNC thread, as were all PDL terminal screws and mounting screws, ie 6 gauge, 32 threads per inch (American) Unified National Coarse. I used to own an eight sided flush plate screw driver, manufactured by PDL in zinc diecast, embelished with PDL where you could see it. Part No. 27 are the extra long screws for use with mounting blocks and pattress boxes, again 6/32 UNC. Part No. 30... you finally got it, a TV antenna and power socket! That mounting box (Part No. 30) with it was designed especially for it with the power cable going through the round entry at the top and the ribbon cable going through the oblong hole. The cable needed to be twisted several times before fitting to reduce interference on the TV signal. Part No. 43, the brown fuse holder and base had a finger and thumb grip on the side of the fuse to allow for safe removal. In New Zealand, we wired the live terminal to the top terminal of the fuse base and the trick for not getting "plated" was to pull down on the top part of the fuse holder until it became disconnected and then removed it from the base by holding the sides of the holder. In all my time as a sparky, I never got a shock while removing or replacing a porcelain fuse. The circuit breaker, Part No. 44, will fit into either of the white porcelain fuse bases without any modification. They were usually sold as a pair to identify the circuit breaker base so you wouldn't try to fit a porcelain fuse holder in it by mistake. Home owners did try... believe me. Part No.46... yes, we had the twin with a bare earth wire, post war when raw materials were scarce but you missed the most important fact about the three insulated conductors. The two outermost conductors are the earth and the neutral, nick either with a knife or saw and you live to tell about it... and replace the piece at your expense.

[@chrissybabe8568]

The mounting boxes were held to the wall studs either by screws or often a couple of nails. The ribs were for spacing. The nails often used before the gib went up and screws if a flush box was installed after gib installation by sliding the box inside the hole and then screwing to the stud.

[@WVUHatton]

Where could i find address? I would like to send you some American electric gear for your review

[@peteb2]

Interesting JW seems to present the outlets as EARTH pin upper.... like the UK plug. Australia/New Zealand the earth pin is down-most.

[@FrancisLitanofficialJAPINOY]

peteb2 Also Argentina

[@busman2000]

The slots on the multi board are opposed so as to prevent it falling off the wall by being bumped into, one would have to deliberately lift one end to slide out the other.

[@Ice_Karma]

Those piggyback or pass-through plugs are quite common in New Zealand, especially for things like heaters that, presumably, will be tying up an outlet long-term. Being Canadian, I was a bit surprised: The only place you see those in Canada or the US is on strands of Christmas tree lights, whereas in New Zealand, Christmas tree lights with piggyback plugs just... well, they didn't exist when I lived there, but I moved away 20 years ago, so... Also, the New Zealand and Australian standards for electrical goods are harmonized.

[@busman2000]

20 amp is common for cooker / oven circuit. Common amp ratings are: 5 A lights, 10 A Sockets, 15 A Heating / Hot Water.

[@nathanbedford3443]

5/10A lights, 20A sockets/ H/W and A/C , and 32A range and hob

[@IanTester]

Gah, stop holding the plugs/sockets upside down! It just looks wrong. Bloody pom... :P

[@lztx]

Ian Tester "upside down" with the earth at the top is how the Chinese mount "our" sockets on their walls :/

[@AlexLaw_Qld]

300Ohm Ribbon was standard for TV in Australia and NZ into the late 80s.

[@lztx]

Alex Law VHF only. I still have rabbit ears with the 300 ohm cable and a balun to convey to the 75 ohm connector. Even works with digital TV :) but only in the capital cities

[@srfurley]

The same type of plug is used in Argentina, but I believe the polarity is reversed there. It could also be found in the U.S. in the past, and old ones are occasionally found on sale as a Non=NEMA design, but these are rare. I have seen a duplex outlet with one of this type for grounded use and a standard NEMA 1-15 R for ungrounded use. The same two angled pins, but with a round or U shaped earth pin are also used in the NEMA 7-15 for 277 V single phase use. These are also rare, the main use for 277 V over there is for large discharge lighting installations in industrial and commercial premises with a 480/277 V three phase supply, and these are not normally fed with a plug and socket.

[@southernnutcase]

have you ever done one of these types of videos based around the US, Canada, Mexico power setup/systems?

[@ratbag359]

there is alot of scary 4way adapters here in new Zealand basicly tinfoil contacts and if you instert it slightly on a angle it bends the contacts

[@bjem2287]

+Josh C I have destroyed at least one like that.

[@chrissybabe8568]

That 300 ohm ribbon outlet is for TV. I have never seen one used for radio aerials. All TVs used the 300ohm ribbon until they were replaced by 75ohm coax and then the F style connectors. FM radio, although frequently listened to, was never wired in permanently for aerial in NZ houses. FM was never really considered to be a high quality radio source that was listened to often. Very very early on you might have found radio aerials wired in but that would probably have been 2 individual, usually metal, terminals - one for a single wire aerial and the other for an earth connector. I probably haven't seen one for 40 odd years. I haven't seen a 300ohm connector for 40 odd years either. You may still come across them in old houses 50-80 years old. Any 300ohm ribbon in a working house would probably have been upgraded to 75ohm coax or more likely F connectors by now.

[@stargazer5112]

The number 9 plug is a plug for older shaver, it is some thing that is no longer a thing that is used. However the plugs still exist so they still make them.

[@seanet1310]

Pliers can ensure the US/China style pins fit just fine in an NZ/AU socket (seen it done a fair few times :S). The powerboard/multiboard cut out is a good idea given Australia does not run individual plug fuses and the general public have a habit of not understanding high current devices and using these boards liberally (although we do have the circuit breakers in the distribution board so in theory these would trip if there was any issue and there was not a cut out. The one thing I would like to see borrowed from UK electrical safety is the internal covers (John called them shutters) over Active and Neutral that are released by insertion of an earth plug. Sadly this will probably not happen as in NZ/AU like in the US two pin plugs are used when there is no earth connection so any socket fitted with the covers would be unusable by nearly all two wire equipment (in the days of plastic, and power supplies 2 pin is more common then three with earth). It is very rare in NZ/AU to find a plastic earth pin or pin without a wire in it unless it is the make your own plug style shown earlier in the video (often with the soft plastic cover). Screwdrivers are the biggest risk from idiots, smallish pins and the angle do seam to inhibit stupidity a little. As a compromise, some powerboards have started to introduce internal covers over active and neutral but they are not locked out like the UK. Yet to see anything else bother to date like extension leads or wall sockets You actually got sent a unswiched wall socket, I have not seen one of them in many years. Very rare with almost all wall outlets in the last 40+ years (probably far longer) having switches but only the more up market powerboards have them and no feed though plugs or extension leads have them to my knowledge A shame you were not sent any 15Amp gear, As you probably worked out by now, most of NZ/AU equipment and circuits are 10 Amps. 15 Amp plug is the same Active and Neutral pins but a bigger earth to stop insertion into a 10 amp socket.

[@lztx]

Sean N and 20A sockets uses bigger active and neutral pins, the same size as the 15A earth. We have an espresso machine at work with that arrangement.

[@Leatherkid01]

Sean N Canada new regulations require shutters on all newly insralled outlets/Sockets

[@FrancisLitanofficialJAPINOY]

Sean N Just cut the US plug plastic cover to make it’s earth pin adapter for Chinese 3 pin outlet for use with 2 pin Aussie plugs. Instead of paperclip.

[@FrancisLitanofficialJAPINOY]

Sean N Also can be found of locked out Chinese 3 pin outlets on plug adapters such as Bull brand plug adapters, Xiaomi M1 power strips, etc..

[@Berkeloid0]

You can get AU sockets with shutters, they are just very rare. Only the active and neutral pins are shuttered (the earth is left open) to account for devices with no earth pin. The shutters only open if there is equal pressure on both active and neutral pins at the same time (to prevent them from opening if something is inserted into only one of the holes). They are rather difficult to get the plug lined up perfectly in order for the shutters to open.

[@horacevan]

In several comments there is mention of "ring" wiring. I am American and haven't heard of this. I am guessing that it means that there are only a few (or just one?) circuits which go to many outlets. This "ring" would have a breaker at the switchboard which would protect the whole circuit for the capacity of the wires. This capacity would be greater than most (all?) of the individual outlets, so therefore the individual fuses in the power plugs. In the US there are usually many more individual circuits going to few outlets each and with a breaker for each circuit. The wiring is sized for the capacity of each outlet with the breaker sized for the wire size for each circuit. A typical circuit would have outlets rated at 15 Amps, #14 wire, and 15 Amp breaker. This typical circuit would have 1 to 6 outlets, depending on the expected load. If a larger load is anticipated, then additional circuits, with their own wires and breaker would be added. It therefore seems to me that the difference in UK versus US wiring is that the UK system has to have the individual power plug fuses to protect individual outlets from the excessive power available on the ring circuit. The US system has lower powered, breakered circuits for just one or a few outlets. The advantage I see for the UK system is that each connected device has a fuse appropriate for that device. It would also probably have less wiring for the same number of outlets. Do I have this close to right? I have never heard of "ring" circuits. If I am right, then a lot of the yammering about how great those hockey puck sized UK outlets is leaving out a large part of the story.

[@jwflame]

Rings are in this video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/nouxZ5uffLGnqKc Basically wire from the breaker, to each outlet, then from the last outlet back to the breaker. Wire used is undersized (rated about 26A, breaker is 32A) which is only permitted because there are effectively 2 cables in parallel. Plugs have fuses in them because appliance cords/flex are not rated for 32A. Other normal circuits such as 16A with several outlets and a single cable are entirely possible and have always been allowed, but for various reasons, many people still insist on installing rings even though there are few or no benefits.

[@RODALCO2007]

Great video. good to see familiar stuff.

[@MBAutomation1986]

The good thing about this system of plug is that the active is always the left side. Neutral is the right pin. You can not connect active to neutral although it is AC The bad thing is they always break. We use these ones for outdoor use on extension leads or power tools. You need to always fix them.

[@Berkeloid0]

How do they break? I've never seen a broken one before but then they are only designed for indoor use. For outdoor use there are industrial plugs which are much tougher and use round pins instead of flat ones.

[@josephking6515]

10:56 I hate the cable being connected at that angle as they always seem to be angled in the wrong direction when I am forced to use one. When we built our house I drowned the place with double and 4 way outlets (126 inside and 8 outside) so I would never have to use a powerboard/powerstrip again. I had 22 (increased to 28 later) outlets in my office and the second thing I had to plug in I needed to use a powerboard. So frustrating. Have had to add a further 16 outlets in the house due to additional devices that didn't exist or were very expensive that we didn't then have. Still need to add a few more so I can finally get rid of extension cables. 22:55 is for a TV as you initially surmised. While I have never seen that cable used for a radio it doesn't mean that is was not used it for that purpose. 30:36 This cable was the style that we used to make at the Associated British Cable factory in Christchurch in the early 1980s so it is a tad old as you thought.

[@twocvbloke]

It's interesting to see the wall sockets have retained their US origins (as the three flat-pin blade design was from 1915 US of A), and looking at them they retained the same dimensions as what is still the current US NEMA standard, you could probably have US and Oz/NZ sockets & switches side-by side, if you really wanted to of course (handy for them Airstream caravans though!)... :)

[@r3tr0nic]

Crazy enough, standard Australian powerpoint and switch grid plates fit perfectly in USA wall boxes. Screw fixings are on ~82mm centres. Flipping it around, US powerpoints and switch mechs would fit in Australian boxes and plaster clips as well.

[@allangibson8494]

@@r3tr0nic The screws are still 6/32 just like the american standard wall plates. The americans have two phases rather than active and neutral to the top pins and where the ground pin is in the Australian socket, the americans connect the neutral.

[@zoltrix7779]

Old video I know, but I am curious about the Earth on the side of the cable as an Australian, I have never seen that, is that a requirement over there? I am guessing its to keep the active conducter more sheilded or something?

[@BensSightSoundandAuto]

Shrouded sockets came in around the late 90s I believe and insulated pins in the mid 2000s

[@bostedtap8399]

Very interesting selection/products, evolution in domestic fittings. Great channel.

[@Graham_Langley]

I note that the brown piggy-back adaptor at 2:38 has a recess around the earth pin for easier location when used blind. UK supplier Scolmore has a development of this idea, intended for the visually-impaired, in their Mode Locating Plug Socket (sic): www.scolmore.com/products/mode-locate/

[@busman2000]

The combined single socket outlet , with aerial socket was intended for television, common in 1970's

[@simongrace2538]

The same style plugs are also available in 15A 20A 25A and 32A. The 15A plug has a larger earth pin The 20A has larger all pins The 25A has a L section earth pin and the 32A has a C section earth pin All plugs can fit in sockets with a higher current rating so it's all good to plug your 10A appliance in a 32A circuit. It's normal to see 15A appliances get their earth pins filed down to fit a 10A socket 😀

[@6A8G]

Re. the two-pin plug @ 7'34" yes, they are illegal, & yes I have two in regular use. My stereo amplifier is a Luxman L45 & has two mains sockets which mate perfectly with the two-pin plug. A lot of amplifiers made in the 1980's has this arrangement. Naturally I added an earth connection to the screw terminal on the rear of the amplifier to keep things safe:)

[@mikeZL3XD7029]

One other thing, in any fixed cable above 1.0mm² the cores are stranded, not solid, we stopped using solid wires in about 1995, they are a lot easier to work with, especially 2.5mm² and trying to terminate socket-outlets.

[@TDJDriftersBoss]

Good to see some plugs I recognise ;)

[@HAMYVALUTECHREVU]

Hi John. Big fan of your videos. Also nice to be the 1st person to like and comment on this new Zealand new video.

[@Yes-ng6rf]

The slots at (11:20), are verticle and horazontal so that the power board can be hung on a wall either way around, if they were both the same you would need four holes or two different mouldings. It must have been cheaper for Bart to send you his shitty old rubbish than to pay the council dump fees.

[@jgroenveld1268]

That chinese adapter had three inputs but only had 2 prongs. Scary considering electrical devices that need to be earthed aren't earthed. Why the hell did they put the earth input?

[@HAMYVALUTECHREVU]

Hi John, Massive fan of your videos. Also glad to be 1st liker and comment of this new video with Newzealand stuff.

[@ArlenMoulton2]

excellent video and very interesting to see what happens on the other side of the world regarding electricity. do you still have any of these? I need an aussie socked and extension cord for a project.

[@6A8G]

Re. the slots @11' 18" these make attaching the power board to the wall the work of the devil incarnate! You measure carefully, screw in two flat headed screws leaving just enough shank to allow the heads to lock into the back of the unit, press the side one through & slide it to lock it in place then jockey the vertical one in the same manner. It's odds-on it will still look slightly askew & will forever wobble:(

[@jayja45]

Is the size of the earth conductor the same size as the live conductors, unlike the embarrassment of UK type twin and earth?

[@jwflame]

jayja45 Yes, all 3 are the same size.

[@bjem2287]

+John Ward What are the size differences in the UK?

[@bjem2287]

+jayja45 What sizes are the conductors in the UK?

[@jayja45]

+Bart Milne 1mm2 Live - 1mm2 CPC (Circuit Protective Conductor/ Earth) 1.5mm2 Live - 1mm2 CPC 2.5mm2 Live - 1.5mm2 CPC 4mm2 Live - 1.5mm2 CPC 6mm2 Live - 2.5mm2 CPC 10mm2 Live - 4mm2 CPC 16mm2 Live - 6mm2 CPC

[@bjem2287]

+jayja45 The earth conductors sizes are the same up to 2.5mm2 - they they start becoming relatively smaller relative to the active conductors. Off the top of my head they are 2.5mm2 for the 4mm2 and 4mm2 for 6mm2 wires.

[@stefantrethan]

On that clear plug it looks like you are supposed to wrap the individual wires around the front for strain relief, is that really so? I've seen clear australian plugs before, they don't trust anybody! ;-) That switch is tiny. I hope you will do more countries, this was very interesting. When you are through you can wire each room in your house with a different country!

[@jwflame]

stefantrethan Yes, the wires fit into the three slots, the instruction leaflet shows this as well.

[@be.spiritlove]

+stefantrethan These are common in Australia when I lived there in the late 80's 90's many so you can see if wires had come loose due to strain on the cable www.clipsal.com/Home-Owner/Products/Safety/Portable-Protection

[@kathyquinlan5922]

+stefantrethan It is not that we do not trust anyone. Health care AS/NZ Standard (can not recall exact number right now) says that ALL cord plugs and cord sockets MUST be transparent to enable a quick visual assessment of the insulation inside (when cords are pulled especially with moulded plugs) the outer insulation pulls away and also that the correct wire is on the correct pin (the last part is more for the person doing the yearly test and tag). On Construction sites all NON Moulded plugs used on power tools, extension leads, and RCD breaker boxes are to be transparent to enable a visual spot check usually by an OHSE person from the building contractor (who also check that your equipment has been tagged in the 3 monthly tagging scheme (this is usually done after work by an electrician from the electrical contracting company on site and paid for in cartons of beer ;)

[@cool386vintagetechnology6]

DIY is actually permitted on non fixed wiring; i.e. what are classed as portable appliances, in Australia. Earth pin faces up in the UK.

[@movax20h]

Interesting. I was expecting a bit more details tho, about cables and internal construction of items.

[@christay21]

the power bord that has 4 outlets holes in back are for mounting to a wall

[@Berkeloid0]

Has anyone ever tried that? If you tried to pull out any of the plugs you'd rip it off the wall!

[@busman2000]

The un-insulated 1 mil and 1.5 mil lighting wire had a bare Earth wire until about the mid 1990's unless you paid extra, now you haven't got the choice. They are all insulated.

[@RWBHere]

22:50 - In 1970, TV aerials in Sydney, NSW used 300 Ohm ribbon cable. Whether it's still used or not would be interesting to know.

[@wateryblaze]

No more 300 ohm ribbon... it's all run in coaxial cable these days in NZ. Better screening and lower line losses and you don't have to solder the plugs on either, just crimp them on.

[@allangibson8494]

75 Ohm coax came in with UHF TV in the 1980s. F connectors are used for satellite feeds.

[@TheChipmunk2008]

Makes perfect sense that a thermal breaker would be required on multiway sockets there, as there's no fuse in the plug, there's nothing in theory preventing you overloading the socket (Unless the sockets are all on 10amp radials?)

[@bjem2287]

+TheChipmunk2008 Sockets are on 16 amp or 20 amp radials. The most common scenario I've seen for the multi boards tripping is in the kitchen when someone tries to run an electric jug and a toaster or sandwich maker at the same time. They are purely a thermal overload and trip in about 10 seconds. From what I understand the fused plugs in the UK are nothing at all to do with protecting the wiring in the wall or the sockets - that's what the circuit breakers/fuses in the switchboard are for. There is a 15 amp plug/socket that is identical except the earth pin is wider. There are variants up to 32 amp (see www.fam-oud.nl/~plugsocket/Australian_3hd.html), but I would not recommend plugging a 10 amp plug into a 32 amp socket unless you put additional protection in.

[@TheChipmunk2008]

+Bart Milne Your understanding is correct, the fuses are to protect the flex/appliance, not the fixed wiring, and thank you for responding. Fascinating link, never knew there was a higher current standard! :)

[@bjem2287]

+TheChipmunk2008 Most of the high current variants are quite rare except the 15 amp type. Usually PDL 56 series or IEC60309 connectors are used. There is no specific protection of the flex but most appliances here have some kind of fuse protection built in anyway.

[@mikeZL3XD7029]

@@bjem2287 By rights you shouldn't be using multi-boards in a kitchen, unless the place needs more socket-outlet circuits.

[@FrancisLitanofficialJAPINOY]

8:03 Rated 15 Amps? Suitable only below 6 amps or below 1870 W. Also Kopez brand replaceable US plugs in the Philippines rated only at 220V 2 A as it labelled across the plug. Below 440W.

[@Berkeloid0]

Australia has a 15 amp plug with pins the same size as the 10A version, and the pins in that US-style plug look like they are a similar size, so if that's true I would guess they should be able to cope with 15 amps without too much trouble.

[@tonttupc]

Switch up, power on? Are the switched upside down in southern hemisphere?

[@Berkeloid0]

With the older style switches (no longer in use) switch up is normally off, assuming they were installed the correct way round and aren't part of a two-way switch arrangement...

[@HDXFH]

Australia, NZ & China use the same Plug standard, US & Taiwan share their same plug standards

[@Leatherkid01]

Canada and Japan (now grounded too on new instalations) and Mexico is the same with the US and Taiwan...:)

[@FrancisLitanofficialJAPINOY]

Leatherkid01 Also the Philippines uses 220V 60Hz but they used US outlets same as Taiwan.

[@FrancisLitanofficialJAPINOY]

HDXFH Cannot plug 2 pin NZ plugs into Chinese 3 pin outlet. If without Earth pin, the chances of 2 Pin NZ plugs into Chinese 3 pin outlet cannot be plugged in if Earth pin has been plugged in, so both NZ 2 pin terminals such as live and neutral can be unlocked as you plugged in. How about plugging paperclip into chinese 3 pin outlet as you diy with long nose pliers to make it’s size of a flat pin plug and fold it so make sure the paperclip must not to be touched between live and neutral terminals, then plug your 2 pin plug and ready to go. From the makers of plugging thin Europlug into UK outlet by plugging using chopsticks to earth outlet and plug your 2 pin thin Euro plug into UK outlet.

[@christay21]

cores are blue/brown green as well as ones that you are showing

[@johnschlesinger2009]

I would like to know what the current rating of the final circuit for those 10A sockets is. As there is no fuse in the plug, a rating of more than 10A could result in dangerously high short circuit currents. Yet it seems highly doubtful that more than a small number would be wired into a 10A radial. I think in the USA the 110V sockets are in the form of 20A radials.

[@steveosshenanigans]

john schlesinger Up until recently it was 20amps ,but now on newer homes , it is 16 amps with RCD / RCBO protection This due to insulation in the walls and roofs

[@mikeZL3XD7029]

@john schlesinger, The final current rating could be either 16A or 20A radial circuits, depending on the length of run vs volatge drop. The MEN system of supply we use here in New Zealand and Australia, requires a low impedance fault current path to ensure that the protection devices operate as quickly as possible. Yes the fault currents are high, but they are very short, provided the system fusing has been designed and installed correctly.

[@mikeZL3XD7029]

@@steveosshenanigans I'm not sure where you got the idea that insulation in the roof and the walls of a house requires lower rated sub-circuits. For socket-outlet sub-circuits, I have always run 2.5 mm² cables, protected by a 20A B-curve RCBO and a minimum of 4 socket-outlet circuits in a house. Sure, for a short run to a dedicated circuit, maybe 16A. I would never low-ball a job with undersized cables.

[@BMcKenna]

The reason our uk cable changed from white to green and yellow on the earth wire is electricians couldn't tell it was white if it got stained or dirty so it was easier to use green and yellow. correct me if I'm wrong :D

[@jayja45]

I'm pretty sure green and yellow is used for earthing for the benefit of colour blind persons, previously it was solid green. White was once the colour of Phase/L 2, it was then changed to solid yellow, and is now black.

[@BMcKenna]

jayja45 ah right

[@pianoandviolin]

"Frequently supplied with Chinesey style products...." haha love it

[@busman2000]

Our 1 mil twin and earth had bare earth conductor in the center, until late 80's-90's

[@brent225]

awsome dude that sent it in is from chch

[@josephking6515]

Ah, Christchurch, it was my second home after I escaped from down south. Chch, dah dit dah dit dit dit dit dit was an excellent place to live, of course 2010 and a couple of years after that were a tad unpleasant though.

[@demonkey123]

When it became evident in 1999 that, within a few years, a new European Standard would require the use of the colour blue (rather than black) for the neutral conductor of fixed wiring throughout Europe, it became necessary for the United Kingdom to address the cable colour issue with some urgency. The joint BSI/Institution of Engineering and Technology committee now responsible for the technical content of the Wiring Regulations (BS 7671) established a Working Group to consider the position the United Kingdom should take with respect to the harmonisation of the colours of the conductors of non-flexible cables for fixed wiring. The Working Group concluded that the United Kingdom had no realistic option but to agree to use the colour blue for the neutral, and brown for the phase conductor of single-phase circuits. It also concluded that, due to the widespread adoption in the rest of Europe, the United Kingdom would have to accept black for one of the other phases of a multi-phase circuit. The Working Group also considered that there was a need to be able to distinguish between the phases of a three-phase circuit and decided to propose the colour grey for one of the phases, because, of the very few remaining pan-European colour options, this seemed to have the fewest disadvantages. The Working Group’s recommendations subsequently formed the basis of a United Kingdom proposal which was accepted by the CENELEC countries almost unanimously. Europe now has the opportunity to fully harmonise the colour identification system not only for non-flexible cables for fixed wiring, but also for flexible cables and cords and distribution cables.

[@paulaherne3915]

The primary reason for changing the color-coding in domestic wiring in Europe from red and black to brown and blue is obvious - the color-blind couldn't distinguish between live and neutral, and the earth became striped green and yellow to completely distinguish from the conductors even if green couldn't be visualized.

[@Revoku]

New Zealand sockets don't have shutters, the ports are small enough you can't accidentally stick your fingers in, and if you have kids in this country you get what is called a safety outlet plug, its a little white plastic plug that is entirely smooth and requires a plastic key looking thing to remove, the tension of the sockets hold it in rather firmly

[@FrancisLitanofficialJAPINOY]

Raxis Chinese 3 pin have shutters but it locks both live and neutral outlets if without plugging earth plug into earth outlet.

[@allangibson8494]

Shutters are optional - they just cost more...

[@mikeZL3XD7029]

@Raxis, Yes they do have shutters. This was mandated back in 1998. They are a pain the rear trying to get your Duspol testers into the Phase and Neutral slots.

[@Revoku]

@@mikeZL3XD7029 oh true, didn't know that, no place I've been in was built newer than 1990 (more likely 1985 tbh)

[@Wiresgalore]

Plug #9 falls under US/china/Canada standard pinout, no idea where they got the 250V rating but we do allow up to 20A @ 120V on those pins in the right scenario :)

[@bjem2287]

+codemsan They use that plug in China for unearthed appliances.

[@Wiresgalore]

That would explain the voltage rating, they had mostly phased out type "A" plugs for type "I" nowadays so i forgot type "A" had seen anything over 100-127V

[@davidpar2]

Some locales use that parallel (US) plug on 240v; Incidentally, all of Hubbell's plug designs were originally rated for 250v max

[@FrancisLitanofficialJAPINOY]

Wiresgalore 100V - 127V?? Only up to 15A for 100V-127V on US plugs but US plugs rated at 125V can be plugged into 220V outlet in the Philippines but supposed to be below 6A or 7.5A. US 3 pin to German adapter rated at 250V 7.5A are equivalent to 1875W.

[@FrancisLitanofficialJAPINOY]

bjem below 6A. Same as the Philippnes used US plugs on most Appliances in the Philippines.

[@GlennPierce]

Although you can plug in two 13amp appliances into a socket using those uk double adaptor plugs its no different than having a double socket as a spur which is allowed. (I never understood why that was allowed any ideas?). In fact I would say the adaptor is safer as you can see what you are dealing with where the layperson would not know if a socket was part of the ring or a spur. Am I missing something.

[@impactvision]

Glenn Pierce depending on a couple of different factors, generally a a single 2.5mm conductor can carry circa 27amps which is adequate considering that each socket outlet on a double socket is 13amp max.

[@GlennPierce]

impactvision Thanks . Should have realised that.

[@jwflame]

Glenn Pierce The other problem with those 2 and 3 way adaptors is their physical size, they are easily knocked causing the socket to be broken, and with 2 or 3 items connected the combined weight tends to pull the whole thing out of the socket.

[@GlennPierce]

+impactvision Funny enough I had to buy some 2.5 mm^2 twin and earth today from Wickes (A UK DIY store) and its says Max rating of 240 volts at 23 amps (BS 6004). I realise in reality it could take more current but who came up with that theoretical rating as technically one could exceed that on a spur.

[@impactvision]

+Glenn Pierce It all depends on how the cables are installed. It is also worth noting that all socket-outlets are manufactured to comply with BS1363 part 2: 1995 and the test applied is a maximum of 20amps (split 14A/6A) for double sockets. Its is very unlikely these days for anybody to be plugging in one true 13amp load into a double socket let alone two into the same spurred outlet.

[@VelvetCondoms]

7:58 That's a standard NEMA 5-15 unpolarized plug. It is indeed fitted for 15 amps. No idea why it was in New Zealand.

[@Marcel_Germann]

Actually NEMA 1-15. NEMA 5 plugs always have a ground pin. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/NEMA_connector#NEMA_1

[@FrancisLitanofficialJAPINOY]

Nate Watson GB-1002 Chinese standard plugs (2 pin).

[@FrancisLitanofficialJAPINOY]

Nate Watson That NEMA Chinese 2 pin plugs must be suitable of below 6A can be found on Chinese IKEA lamp shades. It says 110V-240V 6A on that Chinese Ikea lamp shades labeled below. Also 220V to DC adapters with US plug are widely used in China. Suposed to be used on below 6A appliances.

[@Berkeloid0]

It was in New Zealand because the AU/NZ electrical standards have a specification for 120V AC sockets, using this type of plug. They are just not very widely used.

[@brettknoss486]

I've never seen an export only plug on NA imports. I suspect it's because a common design allows economy of scale.

[@TestECull]

It's probably because the chinese pin layout is close enough to a non-polarized 2-pin N/A plug that they'll natively fit our sockets anyway. Probably not very well, god knows a device made so cheaply they can't even be bothered to mold on the correct plug for its intended country of purchase won't have a properly made plug on it, but it is close enough. Either that or the appliances sold here are completely different ones because we use a lower voltage, slightly higher frequency. The frequency isn't too big an issue, most passive devices won't care and will work just fine on 50 or 60 hertz, but anything that relies on the AC frequency for something(Like digitial circuits that use it for a clock signal, synchronous motors, some power supplies) will work poorly or not at all. And of course the lower voltage is an issue.

[@demonkey123]

The investment in U.K. Electrical design post WWII is obvious when compared with the rest of the world. Some may say that the UK has over engineered their designs, however I would argue that thoughtful proactive accident prevention, always outweighs statistical reactive requirement .

[@zoltrix7779]

The only thing thats better engineered is the plug and socket, I don't see anything else better.

[@blu3367]

Cool, so I don’t have to buy a new charger thing if I ever go to nz

[@God-CDXX]

THAT 2 PIN PLUG AT 6:52 IS WHAT WE HAVE IN CANADA ABD THE U.S.A. AND MEXICO 15 AMP 125 VOLT WALSO HAVE A 3 PIN TYPE AWTH A ROUND EARTH

[@FrancisLitanofficialJAPINOY]

Jamie Phillips Also the Philippines and China uses that plug too on 220V appliances if below 7.5A or 6A and must be below 1875W.

[@twentycm]

Aren't the plugs fused?

[@jwflame]

No, only UK plugs have fuses in them, other countries do not generally use ring circuits so the whole circuit is fused appropriately, typically 10A or 16A.

[@bjem2287]

No fuses on these plugs. The circuits used in NZ are all radial, and it is deemed that the either 16A or 20A protection used on power circuits will act quickly enough to protect any allowable flex cord from a short circuit in an appliance if the appliance's own fuse does not blow.

[@robertgaines-tulsa]

I did not know that Australian/New Zealand plug prongs were actually sleeved now. They are very similar to the plugs in the United States so it would seem to me that our plugs could be sleeved as well. I have not heard anything about making our plugs sleeved, and it's doubtful they will be sleeved any time soon. As you might know, Americans are an arrogant people. There is a major push to deregulate everything so things will probably just get even more dangerous.

[@diamondsword4122]

could you do more chea Chinese electronic items please

[@mattstvbarn]

I noticed that the sender made mention (but didn't physically include) the PDL 40A interrupted phase tap-on, a very difficult item to come by! I put some pictures and information about them up here: tech.mattmillman.com/an-ode-to-the-pdl-40a-interrupted-phase-tap-on-plug/

[@God-CDXX]

HOW COULD I GET THESE FOR MY COLECTION

[@Berkeloid0]

eBay?

[@HDXFH]

lots of goodies!!

[@CEwig84]

This must be christmas to get this

[@everydaysurvivalgear]

half of the products are from Australian companies but our laws are a bit relaxed compared to other countries when i was working as a telecommunications technician you would see some dodgy stuff!

[@MisterMooo]

+everyday “everyday survival” survival gear Yeah our internet sucks

[@everydaysurvivalgear]

yep it will probably take about 5 hours to upload my next video in that time my net is un-usable!

[@mikeZL3XD7029]

And this relates to this video, how? Sure NZ and Australia use the same gear, your point is?

[@HDXFH]

DETA Is a Chinese clone of Clipsal!!

[@chrisjsk]

+HDXFH, witch is so easy to come by at your local hardware store (bunnings) hear in Australia and by the looks in bunnings in NZ too

[@zrellll]

Clipsal aka Schneider IS VERY EXPENSIVE in my country aka Malaysia and yes Schneider and clipsal are the same.But clipsal is more expensive

[@GAZZA55]

yeah and deta is shit to unable to do the screws up very tight to hold the cable in and can just pull out.

[@BrendonGreenNZL]

You should see the (very) cheap Chinese-imported extension cords and multi-outlet boxes that are sold in our consumer retail chain stores. They're garbage!

[@devicemodder]

***** The flat blade style plug at 7 minutes in is also used in USA/Canada/mexico/japan. 40.media.tumblr.com/tumblr_md4pzonkK31rk07lxo1_1280.jpg

[@christay21]

5 amp lights,10 amp heatponts 20 amp heatponts 30 amp stove

[@mikeZL3XD7029]

Yes, it was like this, back in the 1950's

[@tofolia9828]

ok thanks,got what i wanted thanks

[@alantorrance6153]

With all NZ Wall sockets for domestic use (10 or 15 amp), the earth pin is at the bottom -- NOT the top.

[@AlexLaw_Qld]

Changing a main panel ceramic fuse required turning off the main switch, only fools didn't.

[@calmeilles]

The world is not short of fools.

[@chocolate_squiggle]

Yeah, I grew up in NZ in the 80's and I'm sure every domestic fuseboard I ever saw, also had the big master switch for the whole house on it. It was literally 10cm away. I never pulled one of those back then but even as a child I knew - you flick the switch to cut the power and THEN pull the fuse.

[@heronimousbrapson863]

That #9 plug looks North American.

[@paulstewart7529]

if you need an instruction leaflet on how to wire a plug .then you should not be anywhere near a plug

[@DavidBerquist334]

very interesting

[@wisteela]

Very interesting

[@HDXFH]

China share our plug standard too, hence our plugs all come from there nowadays!!

[@bjem2287]

+HDXFH That's not quite true. The travel adapters show the Chinese plugs. They have different dimensional tolerances and don't need to be sleeved. NZ plugs will fit into Chinese sockets, which is a bonus when travelling there.

[@davidpar2]

+Bart Milne yes, the prongs on the Chinese plugs are slightly longer than those of the Aussie ones; they're the same length as the original (American) Hubbell design

[@r3tr0nic]

+Bart Milne Bang on about tolerances and sleeving. I absolutely DESPISE when I find new products for sell being marketed and advertised as for the Australian/NZ market, when its obvious the product was intended for the Chinese region. The length of pins and lack of sleeving are almost always the usual dead giveaways, besides some of the odd shapes of the moulded plugs (some of which, when pushed into a standard Aussie powerpoint, would make the lead point 90° UP the wall, and cover the switch on some models, such as Clipsal 2000 series double powerpoints). Sometimes other failures of meeting electrical AS/NZS standards can be spotted. I am not sure, but China electrical system appears convoluted much like Japan, in that they have different standards depending on where you are in China. I will say the worst thing ever from China is that does everything whore socket, just absolute rubbish.

[@FrancisLitanofficialJAPINOY]

bjem NZ plugs 3 pin only for 3 pin outlets. 2 pin plugs cannot be plugged into 3 pin outlet due to locked out from the shutter as earth outlet locks both live and neutral outlets just like the UK outlet. You can plug NZ 2 pin plugs into Universal US/Euro outlets in China, Thailand, Vietnam, Cambodia.

[@andljoy]

When will others realise that there AC outlets are terrifying and they should switch to BS 1363.

[@Ampera_]

When will the UK stop using pins all the same shape with dangerous ass ring Mains that rely on a quality product not to set your house on fire. When will the UK stop over engineering on saftey and require expensive features to keep it from frying shit. The BS standard is appropriately named. Bullshit.

[@vortexlisa]

+AmperaYT god forbid something that could kill you is required to be safe???? There's a reason things are as they (lack of copper post war) are and I'm sure if we could just change the wiring of every single house and building over night without spending god knows how much we would do it....

[@Ampera_]

vortexlisa British people don't try to take actual facts into account when bashing Americans. The only difference here is that we claim to do things better then you when everyone knows we both are worse then Germany and should just shut the fuck up.

[@TestECull]

Our plugs and sockets are perfectly safe despite being a reasonable size and not requiring fuses in them, not requiring sleeved pins, blablabla.

[@Ampera_]

TestECull NEMA plugs/sockets are safe if your not a total idiot. Yes you can hurt yourself on them, but it's easy enough to not.

[@elektronikmaleinfach16]

In BRD we uses plugs and sockets there are not polarizated. That is a realy bad idea. Most divecec have a switch they use only one wire. For fuseing the same. So the divice is switcht of but under full potential. If the fuse blow the device is even under full potential. Another bad thing is, lamps they used a edison socket can get main voltage to the large metal ring. So it is possible to tuch mains even a lamp is in the socket.

[@Marcel_Germann]

Actually it is not that simple. You're supposed to connect L to the base contact of the socket and N to the outer thread of the Edison socket in a hardwired light fixture. Switches must be 2-pole here if the appliance is connected with non-polarised connectors, switching off line and neutral. Also there are Edison sockets available which prevent you can touch the outer threaded part of the socket.