Making a Strip Built Kayak - Varnishing - E18

In this episode, I do varnishing, more varnishing, some sanding, more varnishing, more sanding, and more varnishing.
Support future videos at: / nickschade
Plans to build your own Petrel Play are available at: www.guillemot-k...
Thanks to Kevin MacLeod for music:
Life of Riley by Kevin MacLeod is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution license (creativecommon...)
Source: incompetech.com...
Artist: incompetech.com/

[@mangoman62]

Today, after putting the first coat of varnish on my kayak, I am supremely grateful to you, Nick. I followed your book and this video series as I built it. I stood stunned looking at the kayak and how beautifully it is turning out. Also, thank you for the excellent skeg design and construction manual. Everything is turning out better than I could have expected.

[@John81oConnory]

The script for this episode was one of my favorites. Love the humor

[@robertrandall4759]

The more builds you document, the better. Watching this series is really the next best thing to taking one of your classes.

[@Quaker-sn5fr]

My father once told me that if you want to learn how to do anything, go and sit behind a man who can do it and watch closely. You are such a man Nick. I have watched your videos for years now and I still marvel at your skill and patience. Your never boring and I like you're sense of humour. Please don't stop. I would really like to see you do a boat if you ever get chance, but I could watch you Craig these masterpieces' all day Nick. Thanks for the entertainment.

[@Dr_Xyzt]

I admire the patience you had with your finish work. It paid off and looks marvelous! I love this type of work!

[@1a1u0g9t4s2u]

I imagining the preferred material to scuff up the varnish between layers is the Scotch-Brite pads as they don't leave stray fibers behind the way steel wool would leave bits of steel wool fibers embedded in the varnish. Your thoughts.

[@chrisgleeton6823]

I'm preparing to re-varnish my cedar strip canoe, and this video is excellent in describing the mechanics of applying varnish.

[@scottmaschino1927]

Will defiantly watch future builds. Your series build are always informative and answer most of my questions without me having to ask. Thanks for sharing them with us.

[@chrisgulbranson5867]

This was a great refresher tutorial. My last 2 coats I will follow your technique exactly. Thanks for making this video. It's a great help.

[@stefanschutte8671]

I really like this series and would love to see more of these explanatory videos in the future! I bought your book, but learn a little detail more every episode!

[@typostranscend9781]

So easy to listen to then i figure why.. Ya look and sound like "everyone knows raymond" awsome vid love it

[@jimdodd3462]

Most excellent technique and video ! I learned a lot ! Glad I can look back on this again in the future ! Tomorrow I cut strips for another canoe ! Thanks !

[@mapgeek6]

Thank you Nick! This is exactly what I needed to see, exactly when I needed it!

[@AndrewMoizer]

More great stuff, and a fun voice over. The practice and patience on them is also making for a fine finish to this series! About the only extra detail I’d appreciate is the grit of the paper and scotch bright you used for the various sanding stages. I’m also struck that it seems like a serious amount of tape (masking, strapping, etc.) goes into each kayak! Many thanks again.

[@NickSchade]

Andrew, I use a fine scotchbrite pad and 320 or 400 grit sandpaper when sanding between the coats. I do end up using a serious amount of tape. I buy it by the case now.

[@nedsmith7144]

Could you be more specific about the ScotchBrite pads? I got some pads at the supermarket but they didn't seem to penetrate the shine.

[@TheDcrocks1]

@@nedsmith7144 he is. Maybe you got too fine of a scotch pad. What did you end up doing?

[@murrayanderson9411]

great work. I have really enjoyed this series. I am sad it is coming to an end.

[@SasquaPlatypus]

My wife will be so excited to see the pile of lumber and forms and fiberglass and brushes and tools and scraps and sawdust and glue bits forming in the garage... She'll be so happy to have married someone so clever and industrious and will completely understand the reasons for me building a wood kayak underneath the perfectly serviceable government plastic kayak already hanging from the ceiling.

[@Bueolmutz]

Very nice videos. I was even thinking that this should be in a vault on case KZbin chrashes. It is a pleasure to watch, very informative useful. Keep posting! I'll difenently share this with like minded.

[@c5173]

great series and very inspiring.

[@curthook9622]

You have more patience or Drive then anyone I have ever known

[@nunolourenco1532]

First, thank you for taking the time to document all the steps give us such a detailed insight on what goes into making one of these pieces of art. You probably may have addressed this in one of other videos (which I've watched more than once) but, why not use a spray gun? It has to do with preparation? Materials? I can see it putting less material in each layer but still... As for sanding, in the past I've used steel wool for finishing - it is a great soft abrasive and easy to conform to all the curves and crannies.

[@NickSchade]

I do sometimes use a spray finish. When I do, I bring it to an auto body shop and have them apply an automotive clear coat. The results are excellent. I don't have a suitable space for spraying. My shop is an attached garage and the chemistry of modern 2-part finishes is seriously dangerous and don't want that around my living space. I could spray varnish, but again I just don't have the ventilation system to make this appropriate in my shop. A modern automotive clear coat does save a lot of time, but it is an additional expense to bring the boat to an outside shop, and the finish is not as user-serviceable as varnish. Most customer can refinish the varnish at own home with out much problem.

[@TheLoneRanger745]

I might have sprayed the hole thing this a 2 qt. Pot gun for a mirror finish , if I could have been there I would have for you . Master craftsman

[@NickSchade]

I have that done with a lot of my boat, but I don't have the appropriate work space in my shop.

[@mapleloftdesigns5036]

I'm about to join the deck and hull of my Guillemot. This video series has been an amazing supplement to your book. I hope you make more. Thank you so much. Also, every guy in my neighborhood wants to make one now and I direct them to your website so hopefully your time and effort will see returns

[@mariusengelsen7194]

@Nick Shade, thanks for the tutorial :) Should I varnish inside, or part of the inside of the kayak? And is it possible to varnish the whole kayak at once if you hang it up? :)

[@keithyoung7]

This is a brilliant series. I really would like to build this boat, however it is so beautiful I would be terrified of scratching it. Are the staple holes visible on the finished boat?

[@woodywoodworkerfuller9921]

Nice !!!!

[@ClaytonwFirth]

Beautiful. Have you ever considered spraying the last few layers of lacquer?

[@NickSchade]

I have not used lacquer, but I have brought boats to an auto body shop to be sprayed with an automotive clear coat. It works great, but costs more.

[@Bloxygen]

Lacquer will not stand up to the water as well as varnish or poly. You can, however, spray those!

[@rolfeantonowitsch2002]

Is there a particular type of varnish recommended? What about a good quality polyurethane?

[@pdtennis]

Do you thin any of the varnish coats or all of them straight varnish?

[@NickSchade]

Varnish is typically thinned when being applied to bare wood to act as a primer that soaks into the grain, promoting a good bond. In this case, we have a better primer in the form of epoxy bonding to the wood. The epoxy is a very good base under varnish, so you don't need to thin the varnish.

[@TheDcrocks1]

Is The varnish you used for this boat your go to varnish for every project?

[@NickSchade]

I have used a lot of different varnishes over the years. The stuff I go back to the most is Z-Spar “Captains”

[@derekmartin3376]

Do you varnish inside the cockpit? I didn't see it in the video. Do you do this after the outside, or before? How many coats inside?

[@NickSchade]

Yes, I do. It isn't completely necessary. The varnish is for UV protection and the interior does not get too much sun light, but it gets some so I have taken to varnishing the whole inside of the boat before I assemble the deck and hull together.

[@derekmartin3376]

OK, cool! I thought about that, but worried the varnish at the edges might mess with the epoxy for the seam. Do you leave an unvarnished strip along the edges?

[@NickSchade]

I mask off the edge near the deck/hull joint so I am not laying epoxy on varnish. You can see the process here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/baLNZZaZn86qe6c

[@jthepickle7]

Leave the tack cloth on the work and use it as you move it out of the way.

[@NickSchade]

Brush marks are more unsightly than a little dust. Stopping to wipe as you go is more likely to cause you to lose the wet edge than to eliminate dust. It really pays to move quite quickly.

[@jthepickle7]

Thanks for responding. You created something of inestimable value in your series of videos. Years ago I bought the patterns from you... Save for one brush dip you apply exactly like I do; one cross-hatch and boogie!

[@John81oConnory]

What grit did you use right before your final coat?

[@NickSchade]

The final sanding before the final coat was with 400 grit.

[@curthook9622]

Have you ever thought of spraying?

[@natelammers652]

Nick, I see you're using Petit Hi-build varnish. Is this the preferred varnish to use? Have you used interlux 2 part polyurethane varnish before?

[@NickSchade]

I experiment a lot with different varnishes. The Pettit Hi-Build is something I've tried recently. I like it. It goes on easily, and does build quickly. I believe in this build I used Z-Spar "Captains" for the final coat as it is thinner and lays down smoother. "Captains" remains my default varnish which I return to a lot. I have tried the Interlux 2-part once so far. It applies differently than what I'm used to and I had trouble getting smooth results. I've got it on two of my primary personal boats now, I'm interested to see if it indeed does holds up better than standard varnish. The biggest downside of the stuff for me is it has a powerful smell while applying. My shop is an attached garage through two sets of doors next to my office. The smell in the office made me lightheaded. Good ventilation is needed, and I don't have good enough.

[@natelammers652]

Nick Schade Which festool 5" sander do you prefer? Do you find the 3.5" handy for certain things?

[@NickSchade]

I have the Rotex 125 amzn.to/2FItlg4 as well as the EC125 amzn.to/2pgzaqS and the Rotex 90 amzn.to/2phjOT2 . The Rotex 125 is my workhorse, I primarily use it on the more aggressive setting. It is very efficient with excellent dust collection. I use the EC125 for finish sanding. It has a smaller orbit and leaves a cleaner, low scratch surface. It is not as quick as the Rotex, but the surface finish is better. The 90 is very useful for smaller, narrower areas and for some interior work. Also a very nice tool.

[@ciaranamhain]

I wonder how many miles of masking tape go into making each boat.

[@АлександрВаулин-ь5к]

patience,patience,patience....... :-)