HOW TO: Armor Texture & Flame Cut Marks

Are you the type of armor modeller who just builds stuff out of the box but you would like to improve your models with as little effort as possible?
Or are you all about detailing the +@#$ out of your builds and you've been wondering, like, where do I start?
Well then, let me introduce you to one of the most basic construction techniques known to armor modellers: adding armor texture and flame cut marks.
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Disclaimer: I am not paid to promote any products shown in this video. I simply use what I have as long as it works for me.
Music: No Copyright Music from KZbin Audio Library

[@NightShiftScaleModels]

How'd y'all like them bloopers? Let me know if you watched until the very end :) I thought it might be a funny addition to my videos... so you can hear me struggle with English language and to also see it's not always sunshine and rainbows when it comes to narration... at least for me :)

[@eternalASV120]

Anyway it's good and your intonation is realy a thing)) At least for a non-native speaker as I am, so don't know exactly ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ I simply like it

[@NightShiftScaleModels]

@@eternalASV120 some words and sentences are just so hard for me to pronounce. I know how to pronounce them, it's just really hard to do it because my language sounds so different and I'm just not used to English. I'm also constantly trying to fight my Eastern European accent but maybe I might just embrace it. You know, to make my content more "exotic" for some people :D

[@orbitalair2103]

@@NightShiftScaleModels; thats ok, I think your accent is fine, and you are very funny. Loved the bloopers.

[@JonBius]

I loved them! Quite fun!

[@SmallSoldier]

Don't lose it, I like it! That's one of the charming things about your narration IMO.

[@shuhratkessikbayev8886]

Other model channels: Calm, peaceful and often quiet Night Shift: Zoom ins, random noises and rarely struggling with English This stands out a lot from the other model channels I've seen like Plasmo, because of it's satire. Good video, subbed

[@nopaallo1147]

Yes this one is kinda dank and memeful i guess, i like it very much

[@blsully]

It's sorta like low-key AvE for modelers. I like it.

[@ShionWinkler]

When rolling metal, you start think and put it through thinner and thinner rollers till you get the thickness you are after. Because of the rolling processes you are actually squishing the metal flatter and flatter each time, so thinner metal tens to be smoother as the imperfections get squished out.

[@NightShiftScaleModels]

Perfect explanation, thanks!

[@janm7163]

You're rolling out the bigger imperfections, but a thing that doesn't represent itself in the texture, yet is still interesting, is that imperfections in the atomic grid, especially where the structure of one part of the steel meets another part of the steel where the atomic grids are aligned at different angles (one particle of steel from a melt cools down to a flake and fuses at an edge with another flake, with atomic grids aligned differently) are searched for, as a small length between these distances, with the areas in between called corns, because they actually improve quality of the steel. Sorry for the bad language, I am German and under influence.

[@StanislavG.]

Hate to be the party pooper, but that's simply not true. The textured stuff is hot rolled steel and the smooth one is cold rolled. This has nothing to do with thinning. Edit: www.metalsupermarkets.com/difference-between-hot-rolled-steel-and-cold-rolled-steel/

[@geroschorch1365]

Bierchen?

[@krautreport202]

This channel may very well be the best thing I ever found on KZbin. 😅

[@NightShiftScaleModels]

Thank you! Haha you haven't been to the more obscure part of KZbin yet :D

[@krautreport202]

@Night Shift Just one question: How do you clean the brushes afterwards? 😅

[@NightShiftScaleModels]

With glue :)

[@krautreport202]

Wouldn't the brush go stiff when it dries? 😐

[@NightShiftScaleModels]

They're back to normal when I wipe all the putty from them. Glue damages them a lot, but those are old brushes, their days of glory are long in the past :) Plus, the scruffier, the better.

[@curdledstraw227]

I dont even make these things bu i still watched the whole video

[@olivierallemeersch1966]

Same here xD Plasmo is very nice to watch too!

[@GoneFishing-8373]

Olivier Allemeersch no.

[@284JBr]

@@GoneFishing-8373 why?

[@calvinhuddleston576]

4:46 "Like with most techniques some back and forth action is always necessary"

[@GoneFishing-8373]

calvin huddleston ( ͡° ͜ʖ ͡°)

[@robertboyd7458]

This is so helpful. I built armor kits as a kid and accepted them as-is, out of the box. Later as an adult, I visited the Aberdeen museum and for the first time saw many real tanks and saw just how different the surfaces looked.

[@MonstrousPixels]

I've seen this sort of panel texturing on dozens of models and always thought my painting technique was somehow lacking. Now I know how it's done - thank you!

[@thewizardofaz]

English is my native language, but sometimes you speak faster than a native. It helps that I speak other languages and can kinda tune my ears on the fly. Your work is phenomenal, I love it.

[@pierre-olivierjanelle3413]

Found your channel yesterday and I’m really enjoying your tutorials. Thank you for the information your are providing us. Your personality and the jokes are an absolute bonus to your teaching. Keep up the good work

[@NightShiftScaleModels]

Thank you and welcome!

[@westr70]

Wow, great work and very inspiring too. Your English is better than most native speakers.

[@euansmith3699]

Good grief, your attention to detail is quite amazing. As a wargaming modeller this stuff is like some occult art to me.

[@NightShiftScaleModels]

I'm sure wargame tanks would look pretty menacing with all this armor texture applied!

[@KossolaxtheForesworn]

speaking of texturing, there is something I accidentally created few years ago on thing I really didnt want to but on hindsight it looked pretty neat. I was cleaning up paint with thinner instead of alcohol and of course thinner melts plastic. I was brushing away at with old toothbrush and was pretty upset after ruining the smooth surface on that specific thing, but I think I would use it for something on purpose at some point. I also once left a space marine in thinner. it became pretty melty.

[@chost-059]

This helped my out a lot, i just finished my first kit (1:48 panzer 3) and now i started working on a 1:48 me262 A2a

[@TomcatModelKits]

I like your humorous delivery and clear description of the techniques you use. Great video!

[@gregnorvell9730]

Have been a modeler for 40 years or so and have built some very nice models. I've watched about 6 of your videos. Yeah, I threw all my shit away! Man your on another planet here, wow! I would like to see a video of your work space and a quick overview of the materials and tools you use.

[@jonrichardson7436]

This channel is such a great resource and one which I wish I'd known about three tanks ago.......!! The techniques shown has managed to draw me back into the hobby with some great new ideas and techniques to try. Keep up the good work!!!!!

[@doubleheadedeagle6769]

Guys I work in a paint dept in a hardware warehouse, always remember to wear a dust mask when sanding. The dust of some fillers is carcinogenic.

[@goneastray9926]

Kind of late but thank you for for warning us

[@jdsull]

Wet sanding will mitigate the problem, but make sure the residue is captured and disposed of.

[@geekyrocket9714]

I appreciate your attention to detail and yourself amongst other great armour modelers like Adam Wilder and those from Mig's encyclopedia series have forever changed my construction process. Simplicity of this technique is great for beginners too, to elevate their model to the next level. Pickle jar cap... definite must! LOL! Please, continue on my good sir! Cheers! PS who doesn't watch your videos all the way to the end?

[@NightShiftScaleModels]

Thanks a lot! Dunno lol, but the average view time is always like 50% of the video length 😁

[@Noone-of-your-Business]

I have been watching Plasmo for more than a year now. I can't believe that the crappy KZbin algorithm took this long to recommend _your_ channel to me. Instant subscribe. So many awesome techniques, so little time to build models.

[@NightShiftScaleModels]

Thank you and welcome! Truth is, I've been around only since February of this year :)

[@Noone-of-your-Business]

@@NightShiftScaleModels Wow! For this little time, you have already published an awful lot of high quality tutorials. I am looking forward to more!

[@fishnchips5826]

Sir. Idk why you dont have enough subscriber but I know you deserve more, you explain everything so well and the video it self is pretty well made with some sprinkles of jokes (which i really like) thanks for the tutorial. Very easy to understand. Because we millennials doesnt like complicated stuff 😂

[@NightShiftScaleModels]

Hahaha yeah, us millennials, lazy, entitled, always complaining :D :D Dude, I've just hit 2K, that's absolutely bonkers!!!

[@CharlesMartel676]

On second thought, you may just have gotten me BACK into the hobby!!!!

[@georgewilliamssr5230]

My modeling skills are pretty basic. But your vids are bringing things around. So building is more fun and freeing up the creative ad libs and wild hairs. Rather than just following the boxed instructions. Thanks.

[@thomasdimarco7918]

I’m a newcomer to modeling but I’m extremely glad to have found your channel, I hope to learn and improve while having lots of fun! Thanks!

[@NightShiftScaleModels]

Thanks a lot and I'm sure you'll have a lot of fun with this hobby!

[@robertarnold6672]

The best video I have seen hands down on texturing! I have tried to replicate this look using liquid cement, bouncing a Dremel tool across the surface & with Mr. Surfacer 500 using a brush or sponge. I haven't been 100% pleased with the results but this technique looks very promising. I like 1/16 scale heavy German armor so mastering texturing is a must in this scale. Also I failed miserably trying recreate flame cut effects on the armor plating so I cant wait to try your method using the Exacto knife. Your effects look so real! I cant wait to see the textured finish under a coat of paint.

[@JonBius]

Excellent info! This will help me refine the technique I use on Maschinen Krieger kits!

[@NightShiftScaleModels]

They are excellent for this technique!!! I also love the "finger applied" texture on MaK :)

[@fromthistexasbreath]

You make the best, and funnest tutorials! Im really looking forward to seeing you work on that Nagmachon.

[@NightShiftScaleModels]

Lol thanks! That Nagmachon is actually the only model I'm gonna leave without paint. I just like it the way it is :)

[@recoveringlibertarian5982]

As some one who has worked on historic tanks . This is one of the best things I have ever seen on KZbin. You are cool Af

[@nathanram809]

Reason for different thicknesses in armor was weight. In order to balance protection and mobility, the most likely to be hit areas are more protected (thick) and the less are less so. That is why the from is thickest, upper side and rear are thinner

[@Tightheadproppainting]

I like the video.... !!!! You talk clear and friendly.... camera is very good....you can hear the music, but not to loud. A nice teaching video about how to make texture on a tank !!! And I can hear how much fun you have when you build a model !!! I used a "Dremel" and worked on the tank surface a little bit to make some rough parts before I put the putty/glue mix on the tank, but in the last years I used only the putty / glue mix like you. .. and... as a german modeller.... I also struggle with my english always in my videos... :-D thank you for the nice video !!!!

[@timtheeagle1]

Awesome video, really appreciate all who spent their time helping the rest of us!

[@NightShiftScaleModels]

Thank you Tim, it takes a lot of time and effort but I'm glad to share :)

[@frankybell6292]

After watching this I'm going to try it with Warhammer 40K tanks wish me luck

[@nathanieljernigan1147]

I was just thinking about that. I wonder what a Leman Russ Tank would look like with this.

[@Mornomgir]

@@nathanieljernigan1147 glorious. long ago i aqcuired this aversion to the front mounted lascannon, flamer, bolter mount. Its like why would you build tanks, well in 40k they are pretty much tracked tractors with some armor, but why oh why would you turn the entire front of the tank into a bullcatcher. All the bobs and ends and stuff on the leman russ front would literally cause any round that hit it ricochet into the underside of the main gun or into the tracks. (look up the panther thank in ww2 where the first mantlets literally diverted rounds down into the drivers head) In any case i got rid of all that and made the front more "real" inspired by the american ww2 super pershing. The stuff he shows in the video helps that large open area come more alive. Im sure it will work brilliantly on other parts as well. Sorry for long rambling response.

[@greywolfblooddoom664]

@@nathanieljernigan1147 I am at the moment working on a leman russ myself. The thing is the games workshop tanks lack a lot of detail. They seem to be intended to look as cartoons and it is quite challenging to make them seem realistic. I would be quite amazed to see a tank from gw to be built by a modellers such as night shift or plasmo.

[@ae4164]

@@Mornomgir "Shot traps" are no longer a concern for tank designers because the shells in current military use simply do not bounce, they penetrate or they shatter. I have to say, you probably made your 41st Millenium tank less "real" by designing it on standards that are already obsolete. Then again a lot of stuff in 40K is more about style than making sense, so do whatever looks good.

[@wallamazoo01]

Many of the sweatshops and forge worlds that produce endless lines of Leman Russ tanks do so with such imprecision that no two tanks are exactly alike, and I can imagine they are built with haste and will have many unfinished textures.

[@TheLegendZordon]

I just happened across your videos. I don't make models. But..i kind of want to now! I just watched 4 of your videos. Very cool man!

[@guidosarducci3047]

I like this guys accent and his occasional struggle with the English language. (I hear that English is the most difficult to learn as a 2nd laguage) Your doing great by the way. But I'm most grateful that u even bother to share your techniques - and in such grate detail in the first place. I will never reach your level and I'm cool with that. You have made my building much more enjoyable and my models realism has improved dramatically. Your tutorials are the best man! Thank u Mr. Night Shift.

[@BRWeisensel]

To get the flame cut look on armor plates, I use a smaller metal working file (one of the triangle ones). Simply place the edge of the file on the plate and press with my other thumb down on the file, and then twist/rotate the file away form the model. Then turn the the file around and do it again from the other direction.

[@NightShiftScaleModels]

I did it once the same way on my Maus, but my triangle file was also bent at the tip into a sort of hook shape, so I used it just for that :) But it created incredible results

[@timothyoffenbacher6190]

Enjoying your videos - really like how you are combining the old school techniques with some of the newer products but not so much that it feels like you have to go out and get the latest (insert product here) to get similar results - really sucks the joy out of modelling (for me anyway). Any chance you could post more photos of your DR9? I know you did that some years ago but thought it was excellent and I've only ever seen like 4 photos of it. Keep up the great work.

[@NightShiftScaleModels]

Thanks Tim! Modern shake n' bake products can be great as they save tons of time! I'm slowly learning that myself. Some of them can be really really useful. But yes, in other aspects I'm still a bit oldschool DIY guy. I almost forgot about the D9R. I have more pics in my computer, gotta transfer them to my phone and post some more on instagram.

[@donfrandsen7778]

Outstanding , refreshing and inspirational , great refined ideas , you work and painting captures the "mind eye" in scale work , realism, and yet how it would appeal aesthetically Spot on !!! Love it Thank you !!!

[@NightShiftScaleModels]

Thanks mate! Finding balance between realistic and aesthetically pleasing is hard, but that's what I always try to achieve. Can't tell if I'm succeeding though :)

[@donfrandsen7778]

You did outstanding work , realistic impressionism , I would call it. As it goes multi layers beyond just even a real vehicle in action. Precise and subtle , but effective , extremly well done, very inspirational !

[@isisnmagic1812]

Came upon your videos by chance, now spent days watching all you did and loads of tips, this video is a God send for my first tank build a Tamiya 1:35 Panther,thanks for the videos and your great work.

[@andersdenkend]

I am not even into military kits, but had to subscribe anyway, because your enthusiasm is contagious! Great job, man.

[@dragonforgedesign]

Came back to watch this again today as I wanted to do some flame cut marks.

[@acgiantdad6474]

Well for a good exercise in cast textures, once you get done with the Chi-Ri, have a look at Takom's T29E3. The turret and front glacis are large castings, reflecting the US's fondness for cast parts

[@NightShiftScaleModels]

I've got that one in my stash. Got lots of reference pics from Ft. Knox too and that turret is rough af

[@MrSafer]

I have never spoken any other language besides English, I still have trouble pronouncing some words. I love you kept your bloopers in.

[@harmmany214]

I like the way you talk about nerdy things I like, subbed.

[@NightShiftScaleModels]

Thank you!

[@SmallSoldier]

Hell-ar-i-ous!! Loved it. I've never tried the flame cut technique but I will next time it's needed. I also like the way you textured the armour. I do it a little different but am itching to try your way. Awesome as usual Martin. Love the tongue-tied blooper at the end. I know the feeling as I've done it countless times in my videos as well. Keep up the great work, love your channel!

[@NightShiftScaleModels]

Hey Scott, thanks! What's your technique? I'm always open to new knowledge :)

[@NightShiftScaleModels]

Also just saw you and Evan uploaded your T-34 videos. Gonna watch them tonight, hopefully :)

[@SmallSoldier]

Actually, when you watch my video I demonstrate it in one segment. It's just one way I do it but I definitely want to try yours.

[@NightShiftScaleModels]

Got it!

[@eugeneoliveros5814]

The one time KZbin recommended works for me

[@ScratchBashing]

Awesome guide! I may have to get back into kit building...

[@PearlJam2k6]

Discovered your channel last week (thanks YT suggestions), and im really enjoying the commentary instead of royalty free music. Its a great change. I have to ask, do you a video of the last 3 tanks in this tutorial? The one that looks like a Cromwell with the red turret, the IS spike monster and the flying saucer experimental 4-track (i saw those in Kubinka a few years ago, they're AMAZING). I really want to see those described a bit more

[@Herbybandit]

Glad I found this and I now have an IS 2 with an awesome cast turret

[@GenBloodLust]

man, this is so cool, i want to try it on a warhammer Land Raider tank. I would love to see your take on some of the brightly coloured marine tanks from the 41st millennium

[@Katniss218]

I love that obj 279

[@Yinzermakesvids]

Ive decided to make my own models using polymer clay and magic sculpt and watching your tips on detailing might prove useful even on a polymer clay tank.

[@ikiusen3646]

Excellent video! I really liked it! I made my first cast steel effect on the Sgt.York a US prototype vehicle. Its a very fun and satisfying technique.

[@NightShiftScaleModels]

Thanks! Cast steel can look very very different compared to rolled steel plates. It's probably the most enjoyable surface to work with. Creating cast surfaces is like painting, but instead of paints you're using texture.

[@fetsluck5620]

I've not put a model together for years but I do miss it. It does take lots of patience and time. I've went into detail with mine but not as much as you do. And I've never done a tank bf. But now I think I'm going to have to get a tank and put it together. Love the front of your eyes. Lol. You did good. I'm American but I love old Russian tanks. Med and heavy tanks. I play wot and my little boy loves watching me. But definitely learned some stuff from you in just a few videos. And yes I'm a new sub. Enjoying your channel.

[@NightShiftScaleModels]

Thanks a lot! I actually use some WOT High Definition 3D models as inspiration for textures. They really did a great job on them.

[@CharlesMartel676]

I'm not even a modeler, anymore, but I LOVE your videos!!!!!

[@ThisOLmaan]

i dont do this for hobby but these modules here are superb, iv saw people make this but not like this attention to detail

[@laugh78]

wow ....great video editing and JAM PACK with awesome tips !!! so much info JAMed in your channel ! This is the holy grail !

[@mephisto7549]

I never seen such a great scale model channel before! Great work, keep it on! ~Greetings from RT-Diorama Germany

[@NightShiftScaleModels]

Thanks!

[@PGNogueira]

Great work. Your videos are so good that I don't even notice the time passing. They actually evaporates right in front of my eyes :p

[@TheGameCraftDragon]

This is amazing! I mostly do sci-fi type tanks, but this would still totally look great on them! Thanks!

[@Lightman0359]

Your weld-bead vid inspired me to scratch-build a turret for a warhammer tank, this on is inspiring me to attempt to do armor texture on an urban assault tank I'm scratch-building/restoring from a trashed ebay bitz lot (also 40k, a repressor). While much of it is already covered in over-the top imperial gubbins (angels, skulls, roman aquillas, etc) there are a couple parts of track guard that are factory smooth and kinda boring that I might add some night-shift style armor to.

[@TheLeostevenson]

Great instruction about texturing! Could you also talk about how to texture modern western military vehicles? seems they usually have smooth surface, especially light vehicles, such as armored transporters(M2A3 Bradley/Cougar), and even Leopard 2 has skin looks like new born baby, not sure how to make them more interesting.

[@NightShiftScaleModels]

maybe veeery thin putty, or just leaveit smooth. the texture is so minute it would be invisible in small scales

[@johnwilkinson2682]

Found your channel while surfing UTub. Haven't built a plastic kit in almost 50 yrs. TAMIYA was just getting started in U.S. left modeling to raise family found that more fun than modeling. But that's another story for a different day . Currently selling blood for equipment when the heck did it go through the roof ,I never paid more than 20bucks for a plastic kit the paints are amazing had to use Squadron Green putty for filler .weathering took pastel chalk use to much do it over again to much use as a fishing bober very few people used oils thinners would orange peal the paint no water base paint unheard of . I lived in Alaska at the time was end of world .Worked in summer built models in winter .,took day to go to hobby store many hundreds miles away .Air brushing was done paid 50 bucks for mine compressor 10 bucks .Have an appointment next week with some guy for the sale of a kidney for a new good brush (ha) .You do in your videos what took me weeks to do always had at least 5 going in different stages .You apply texture to your tanks with glue an putty I used Squadron Green Stuff ,some time Bondo for car repair a product called Cull Clay for mud or dirt .It's changed so much . I'm looking up past videos of yours .Amazing beautiful work . Do you mind trying to teach an old dog new tricks. I'll ask a ton of stupid questions if you have the time I'd treasure any help .I'm rambling until next time thanks and I'll keep watching. This Old Dog thanks you very much

[@mikek4610]

Ok...i want to see the build of the spiked war machine...you are so f-ing talented....anyone can build a model...you give them life

[@beklot]

Loved it! Last week's video was about the metal parts...now the armour texture...next week video hopefully will be about weld beads 🤞🤞 :D Oh boy... I can't goof my little IS-2 up after watching these phenomenal tutorials!!!

[@NightShiftScaleModels]

You got it mate, next week will be about epoxy weld beads! These techniques are not that hard. Less is better if you're unsure. Just don't make that IS-2 look like my Sherman at the end of the video! Or actually, I think you could get away with it... it's an IS-2 after all! Weld beads are definitely one of the more difficult techniques and if not done properly can ruin the entire model. But I'll talk about that in more detail next week.

[@cuorecattivo]

you are the most entertaining modelling channel i have seen :) LMAO ....good sense of humor ...you got a instand subscribtion.

[@modelrestorations]

Very impressive tutorial! Thanks so much for sharing it with us.

[@Rena152]

Your videos are nice and you have a friendly way of showing the do's and don'ts, with the occasional joke around Very nice tutorials, I thank the algorithm for suggesting me your channel!

[@NightShiftScaleModels]

Thank you! And bless the algorithm, because it's finally suggesting my videos!!!!

[@AdamMann3D]

Nice video sir. I'm too lazy for this, but I appreciate it when I see it.

[@NightShiftScaleModels]

I get that. That's also why I mentioned it in the video. But to me it's one of the most fundamental construction techniques. Personally can't have a tank without some rough textures.

[@XxBloggs]

Love your videos, by far the best technique videos on You Tube.

[@draxusdemos8266]

I like watching these videos for Techniques for gunpla

[@julianteetzmann1812]

Got addicted on your Videos! Really learning something and want to try it immediately! Keep on modelling and editing Videos 😎

[@NightShiftScaleModels]

Thanks! Haha I felt that way when watching Adam Wilder's KV-1 series. I actually painted a T-34 using the exact same techniques as he did. I just went along with each episode, when he stopped uploading for a while, I put the model aside, then resumed working.

[@christianwolf68]

if you are doing current era models , there is a can air brush kit from Hobby Lobby that will give you the same suddle effect of the CARC paint look

[@nicolastousignant9160]

Of all the modeling channels i watch, yours is the most informative and fun. Would definitely buy you a beer or three, given the chance 😉 On an other note, i am thinking of applying your various texturing and weathering techniques to miniature wargames ( warhammer 40k imperial knights to be precise) but am concerned about durability on models that get handled a lot, any thoughts?

[@rafaeleclectic]

Hello! Thank you for all the great details, techniques and tips you give us on your videos. About putty have you used "green stuff" putty for this texturing?

[@goldenscales]

Well done! You and oddball759mm are the only ones that I've seen so far that make the gas-axe marks on their models. (Mind you, he builds 1/6th scale!) Lol.

[@marquitust2874]

I did that rolled steel texture and it worked! thansk

[@DarkROSkull013]

Wow...scale modeling tanks appears to be different than doing gunpla. Granted, you can apply same techniques, but it still feels different. Thanks man.

[@brucethemodelnoob]

Another great video! I love using Tamiya putty thinned with thin cement for a lot of different things. Any chance you could do a zimmerit tutorial?

[@NightShiftScaleModels]

Yes thinned Tamiya Putty has so much more applications! I'll show that in the upcoming videos. Zimmerit.... I've only done it once on a Tiger, but it's not finished. I mean, it doesn't look very bad, but it's still my first experience. Telling people what to do with almost 0 experience, eeeh I dunno :D Maybe I'll give it a shot.

[@estepham1]

Haha one of the best scale modelling channel! I actually have my own tec: i use a dentist thing called "jet" or i can use extra thinn glue too, but in my country its expensive, then i take a brush and put in the surface, with a round and hard brush i make the texture, then i sand it down with a 2000 or 3000 grit sand paper, the first time i used was in a 1/35 M10 from Italeri and got a gold medal in a contest called Superkits in my country, now im looking foward to do zimmerit on a 1/76 panzer iv from airfix

[@NightShiftScaleModels]

Interesting technique. Also congrats on the gold! Oh, zimmerit, I'll have to try that as well (I don't build much German stuff lol)

[@estepham1]

@@NightShiftScaleModels i have used tamiya putty once... Buuut its not that good... Maybe i use two parts epoxy putty

[@estepham1]

@@NightShiftScaleModels if you like you can see my intagram, only builds and modeling stuff, just search for modelismocwb ^^

[@schoolhse]

Great channel!! And your English is excellent, by the way!!

[@Oleg-dp2fh]

The medal is my favorite in this one! Thanks for a useful tutorial, I already applied it to my current build (i tried). Would be really happy to get some idea on how to make a cast turret on t34-76 in 1/56. According to the photos early castings were not that over-textured as castings on KV-1 or other heavy tanks.

[@NightShiftScaleModels]

In that case I would stick to just some very gently stippled and sanded down putty. If they were rather smooth, there's no point in going crazy, especially in such a small scale.

[@Oleg-dp2fh]

Night Shift thank you for your advice! As I have already made some “steel” texture for the hull, I planned to make the turret a bit more rough. I think in this case (if overall method is the same) I will try a very diluted putty so the plastic is damaged more. Imo wargaming oriented models allow for some madness like a bit oversized details and textures (that is the reason). Thanks again for your work, keep it up. Have fun and so will we!

[@Nemodelist]

Большое Вам спасибо!!! Учусь на Ваших видео!!!! Вы большой молодец!!!!

[@loydcogswell294]

Before doing the flame cuts try thin glue first let it dry mostly before doing flame cuts then reapply thin glue to soften it up at end of making cuts it makes doing the flame cuts easier

[@sekritdokumint9326]

The top armor of the vehicle would be smoother because the material is thinner. Its propably rolled down to a desired thickness, while front and side hull armor would be casted directly?

[@VOLHans]

We're talking about rolled armor here, and not cast armor, right? In that case, the thinner armor has been passed through sets of rollers more times than the thicker armor. The process of rolling it out thinner has the effect of 'polishing' the surface.

[@sekritdokumint9326]

@@VOLHans thats what ive meant, i havent specivied it thou.

[@vonclark6344]

Minds melted.

[@JedenSiedemDwa]

Great. One of the best tutorials I've ever seen. ;)

[@NightShiftScaleModels]

Wow, thank you!!

[@RustledBurritos]

Great video, I loved the blooper at the end, reminded me of my german friends trying to pronounce anything with a V

[@antebilic1534]

You have brutal logo, btw you make good quality videos of rarley talked topics... Good job!

[@johnzaferes2257]

Hey thanks for the great video! Like your sense of humor!

[@potatopants4691]

Love the humor, my friend! Keep it up. :)

[@marekczarnecki8150]

How to make a battle damage?? Bullet holes etc.?? Can you make this tutorial how to do it?? You are the best modeler👌🍻 THX for your films😁✌️

[@fewtoes]

Why the smooth top and rear in most tanks with welded/built up hull and/or turret? Its not armor plate. Hot rolled steel, maybe even cold rolled. If it wasn't, the tank weight could very well double. Cast tanks are not any different, they just have different thicknesses throughout the casting.

[@NightShiftScaleModels]

No idea, like I said I'm not an expert on this. But many photos show this, museum tanks but also WW2 close up pictures.

[@bengrogan9710]

It's a result of the different manufacture and purposes The hull top and rear are thinner and are through hardened - the entire plate is high hardness The hull front and Turrets are Face hardened - only the outside surface is hard, the inside is still soft As something is hardened it becomes brittle - it loses flex and becomes at risk of shattering if a large impact happens - If a tank round hits a through hardened plate the inside splinters inside the hull as shrapnel Rifle and MG rounds cant hit hard enough for that so thin hard sheet protects from that Tank rounds needed face hardened to defend as the soft back would flex and dissipate energy The stippling effect is a visual artifact of face hardened plate

[@Chevsilverado]

Flame cutting 2 inch metal is terrifying. Molten metal spraying everywhere especially when learning lol. And if you go too fast you make a dish where the metal collects and then sprays out like when you run a spoon under a tap.

[@fqwarrior]

I love your narration. No issues there! Question I have though...your brushes...how do you clean them after? Or is it throw away? I imagine with the glue it will get hard when dry?

[@NightShiftScaleModels]

I clean them with glue, no issues afterwards. But obviously those brushes are only used for putty application.

[@fqwarrior]

@@NightShiftScaleModels you clean glue with glue? Don't you end up in the same place again? Haha

[@Black73CatScaleModels]

Awesome, as always! Clear instruction, great demonstration. Love that Sherman 😍

[@NightShiftScaleModels]

Haha that poor little Sherman, may it rest in pieces or be reborn as a plastic bottle.

[@silentumexcubitor6747]

I don't know so much about the Challenger, but there's a surprising amount of VERY small-scale "texture" on the Abrams. And, try 120, or even 80 grit sandpaper for "texturing"....Those green nylon kitchen dishwashing scrubbers also work great for smoothing.They're called "Scotch-brite" here in U.S.....

[@NightShiftScaleModels]

See, I knew it!! Also, softening the plastic with acetone and then pressing sandpaper against it kinda works. Creates interesting texture but it's harder to control.

[@ievgentaranskyi1373]

I would love to see the finished model :)))

[@Snonaniganz]

Fantastic work and video once again (Your prounounciation of Perpendicular was spot on - on your first attempt btw ;) ) The only time I've used straight Surfacer 500 on a model was the mantlet of a T29E3 because I thought it looked good. Have you considered doing a vid on Milliput/Epoxy putty weld beads? I can't for the life of me get them to attach to a plastic surface.

[@NightShiftScaleModels]

Haha, the more you know :) Next time I'll keep that Perpendicular thing in mind. Or I'll just avoid it! Surfacer 500 creates great texture and is very effective on rough cast surfaces, it also has more volume and doesn't level down as much as putty. I use it from time to time, but overall not the biggest fan. And well, it was supposed to be a surprise, but now that you asked..... yes, the next video will be about EPOXY WELD BEADS! Woooooohooooo!

[@Snonaniganz]

@@NightShiftScaleModels Very soxy 👌 - Yea, mines so old that it now creates spider webs when I use it - which can be a pain to remove after. It's one of those, Use in moderation sort of products (aka Pigments)

[@NightShiftScaleModels]

Oh yeah, I remember having a bottle of Mr. Spiderman Surfacer too! Nasty stuff, I guess it happens when the seal isn't airtight anymore?

[@Snonaniganz]

@@NightShiftScaleModels Yea, It definetly seems to happen when its thinner evaporates some.

[@NightShiftScaleModels]

And that's one of the reasons I don't use it that often. And if I need to prime the model, I use a spray can :)

[@clyse88]

You'd make a killer book

[@andyjones6995]

Brill video. I'll definitely give this a go mate.