Nikkor Nikon19mm PC-E (Tilt/Shift) lens Review (Part 3 in 3 part series)

[@billzidis2656]

This is the best video on youtube about tilt shift lenses...Since i start using tilt shift lenses my interior photography completely changed !

[@TM-px2kb]

"This is the best video on youtube about tilt shift lenses." That's exactly what I was about to write! ;)

[@billzidis2656]

@@TM-px2kb because it is

[@ramirocastroxiques6535]

​@@billzidis2656 hi, can i asked if you have been problems with flare (using only the original hood) shooting interiors?

[@adriannowak485]

Agreed. Very nice video.

[@Synthalog]

Pure knowledge right there. Fantastic lesson from a real pro. Thanks for taking the effort to post this tut.

[@Bloggerky]

Demonstrating how the camera moves to different portions of the image circle is a key part of the explanation of this video. Very well done and informative.

[@Choetaesun]

Sir! You are the Master and Teacher of photography! Thank you so much!

[@danv9637]

I bought my 19mm lens a year ago but I am always finding something new to learn! This rounded off my knowledge nicely and I really appreciated this series. Thank you for sharing!

[@pakuplue]

Finally! Some real photography knowledge on youtube, what a sight!

[@sundarAKintelart]

A very pleasant and polite discussion. Nice.

[@getcasblanca]

Outstanding demonstration. Congratulations

[@myroadtours6147]

Incredible series, not just this lens but tilt shift lenses over all! Defiantly a must watch video series for anyone thinking about buying a tilt shift....like me! I was going to purchase a 24mm PCE but you may have just sold me on a 19mm. That model shot was amazing, I would have never thought to use this lens in that field, brilliant! Being from Dallas, I took some of the same photos using a Nikon 14-24mm and as you mentioned, stitched or corrected in post. I really enjoyed your explanation and comparison of this lens vs the tilt shift. I love the 14-24mm and it has it's place but I regret not buying a tilt shift sooner. I even use a giga pad (electronic head) and this out shines that.

[@frankwu2699]

Thank you Graham for the great video. It is great to watch real photographer talking about real stuff.

[@RaymondParkerPhoto]

Thanks for a complete though concise "view" of this lens.

[@RajendraKumar-ge9cv]

Thank you Graham for a very detailed, informative and helpful video. Concept of tilt and shift clearly explained and how to take good and sharper images with right perspective is very helpful. I was looking for more information and videos on PCE lenses, your 3 part video series really helped me. Thank you for your effort and time in making / sharing the video series.

[@jhapuarachchi4497]

Thank you Graham for the wonderful presentation. Felt like sitting at the feet of a Master so unassuming and yet so full of wisdom about the craft. Learnt so much and ever so grateful. I will use my 19mm with more understanding and paying attention to all the details. It slows me down and that is the whole reason why I love this lens. Thanks you again and look forward to more from you.

[@polyviossimopoulos2436]

How very beautifully old-school all this is, old man! Your experience in equipment, in the field and in presentation, make all this seem less “advanced” [i.e. ultra high-tech/specialized/gimmicky/geeky/intimidating] and foreign, and more evolutionary and familiar [I am left with the sense that this lens “is standing on the shoulders of giants”, rather than it “stomps whatever previously existed”], both in your videos [and what you have in the description box] and in your replies to viewers’ comments. In addition, the language being impeccable and the phrasing laconic, your work has taught me more than just about this lens and photography, and, what’s more, I believe that - even if only subconsciously [which I doubt!] - this was your intention. Certainly not qualified to judge your work [it took me longer than I care to admit to mould this comment to shape, yet I consider it imperfect - considering!], just my thoughts and impressions regarding what I have experienced by watching these videos, as a respectful tribute and appreciation. Questions: - How does this lens [also the 24mm f/3.5 PC-E] perform on the new Nikon Z mount, with the FTZ adapter? - How do these lenses perform with APS-C [Nikon DX] sensors? Would pairing these lenses with the D7200 or the D500 produce equally superb quality photos as those made with 35mm sensors? - Have you observed any focus breathing with these lenses? - With all these shifts and swivels… how well are these lenses protected against foreign particles [dust e.a.] lodging where they’re not supposed to? What [user-level] care/maintenance is needed/recommended? One wish and request: Reviews and comparisons to 3rd party tilt/shift lenses [or systems, as available - e.g. Venus/Laowa Magic Shift Converter (currently only for Sony, but you never know!)], done by you, possibly with both 35mm [both DSLR and mirrorless] and APS-C sensors, would be invaluable [I am particularly interested in Hartblei, being aware, of course, of the different focal lengths]. Not that I have not learnt a lot already… nonetheless… it is the nature [greediness?!] of humans, I guess… plus that KZbin, spoiling us, does not immensely help! In any case, my deepest appreciation and respects, sir, and… no pressure!

[@dalekeith4961]

This was fantastic explanation of the 19mm. I do appreciate the techniques described. I am going to rent one and try it out. Thank you for your precise and excellent presentation.

[@witoldkaczanowski7112]

thanks lots for this video, definitely the best and the most informative review of Nikon 19mm tilt&shift I've found so far! keep up a great job! :)

[@tonyh4266]

Very detailed and well covered videos, I have just viewed all three and although it is some time ago you made these, they are just what I needed to see. Thank you for your honesty and professional approach to this aspect of photography.

[@Britphotog]

Thank you for taking the time to produce such an informative and very concise video Graham. It was a pleasure to watch.

[@alexanderarreguileszcz6010]

Thank you very much for this video. Learned a lot and everything was crystal clear!

[@Skier95746]

Really great series of videos. Well explained with beautiful sample photos. Thank you

[@niteenkasle8650]

Thanks for the detailed review of 19mm Pc e lens.

[@alipsettphoto]

Thank you Graham! Most informative and very helpful. I have the 14-24mm and have been debating on getting the 19mm Tilt shift.

[@EXTRA300s]

I was using the 14-24mm al day before I got the PC-e 19mm, the 14-24mm it is a great lens, but believe me that 19mm PC-e is worth every penny. I am afraid not going to use the 14-24mm anymore. Maybe only for faster work, holyday’s or something. With the 19mm it takes a lot of time to making pictures, but therefore you get the best pictures you can imagine.

[@alipsettphoto]

Thanks so much! I decided to pull the trigger and order one. Do you the the NiSi filters that fit, on the lens?

[@EXTRA300s]

Till now I could not find any filters for the 19mm PC-E. The "problem" is that the front glas sticks really far out, even more than a fisheye lens. So treading the lens with care, and don't even move the camera before the lenscap is on it. I'm hoping there gonna be some protection as a UV or other filters. You won't regret it buy this lens, I'll bet that is the only lens for the next couple of monts you are going to stick on your DSLR :)

[@kensou88]

I've been looking for answers for the stitching of the photos. awesome review! I got my answer

[@pdp11]

This is the best TS video on youtube! Thanks!

[@photosmusic7177]

Hello Graham ... I have been using this lens for over a year now and just came across this video. Thank you for sharing your knowledge and your time to make this video. I am glad that I now have a link to a video as it can help explain the value of using a tilt-shift lens for certain uses. Viewing the video and the photos you took, these questions came to mind. I am certain that you have access to and likely have an L-bracket. Is there a reason why you did not use an L-bracket to demonstrate the 19mm f4E PC for stitched vertical/portrait shots ? If one has the option to tilt the lens to achieve sufficient greater depth of field, why did you see such small aperture values as to go deep into the diffraction zone already where the lens acuity drops considerably? I typically stay within f/5.6 to f/8.0 for most of my shots to get the greatest acuity in the center to the corners and use tilt to get the needed depth of field but I noticed that you used an even smaller aperture such as f/16.0. Is there any specific reason why you chose such small aperture values (f18)? For extreme situations (9:21), have you considered focus stacking along with the tilt as a way to achieve the desired depth you need yet also stay outside the lens diffraction zone? Thank you again.

[@daveenpeterus9481]

Really good, informative narration and great editing. Thanks.

[@cedricgyger2936]

very instructive report Thanks

[@otavioleitefotografia]

Thanks a lot for sharing these videos. It's very hard to find out something like this. Very detailed.

[@carlotognozzimoreni]

Excellent thanks Graham!

[@mhc2b]

Incredibly informative. Thank you. Starting at 22.27 towards the end of the video, you should your circle of images you created, and how one can produce a whopping square crop. I would love to create that crop. Do you show somewhere "how" you created this original circle of 13 images?

[@GrahamHobart]

Hi Michael, I did not explain how I did this in detail but if you look at the assembled composite image of the tree you can work out by the squared corners on the outline where each of the outer images were placed by shifting the lens as far as it would go and then rotating the lens around at various angles of rotation to get the outer circle of images. The tricky part is that the lens cannot rotate 360º so there are quite a few combinations of rearranging that have to done to get them all. Remember that it is also important to get the in-between shots for good overlap in the center of the circle. If you look carefully you will notice that I did not use the "click" indentation at 45º but rather the 22.5º positions from vertical and horizontal.

[@badbackbatch]

Excellent video! Great information combined with real-world professional images - thank you!

[@forrestgalt2832]

Awesome! Thank you, very professional and much appreciated.

[@TwlShooter]

a really great review Nice job!

[@mikemalloy1681]

Wonderful technical competence. Questions. 1. What was that view finder magnifier you were using at the first of the video on the back of the Nikon . 2. Rather than stitching, could you not use stacking also?

[@JoeReardonPhotography]

Great video on this lens It on the next purchase list What model tripod head are you using and what model focus hood

[@stuartwalker121]

Great video series Graham. What clip on loupe are you using please?

[@stuartwalker121]

Graham, ignore that question please: I watched video 2 first, then 3, the answer to my question was in video 1.

[@boredtired1815]

Hello, in the image at 22:20, the transparent handrail pillar seems to have fallen victim to the distortion of verticals seen in the traditional wide angle lens in which the lens+camera would be tilted to face up. Shouldn't the use of the tilt-shift lens avoid this problem? Thank you for this series and I have learned a lot.

[@GrahamHobart]

This example of shooting a flight of stairs was meant to show an extreme case of where stitching comes into play. The base of the stairs was only about 10 feet in front of the camera and the top was directly above and was outside the reach of the lens' vertical movement (it was outside the image circle). I had to tilt the camera up in order to get the top of the stairs in the image. This, of course, caused some keystoning (convergence of the vertical lines). The reason I included the image in the series is because it achieves a composition that no other lens can do in the same way. The only other lens that has that angle of view is a 16mm (full-frame) fisheye lens and that distortion would have been far more severe and distorted. I like the way it turned out.

[@boredtired1815]

@@GrahamHobart Thanks Graham. Don't get me wrong that's a great shot, I was just wondering why that distortion happened. Thanks!

[@omanuelsa]

Thank you so much for this video.

[@herbertacciaio]

Thank you so much! So useful review

[@greggorter]

Fantastic review Graham, thank you for all your efforts & knowledge, now, onto saving for one ! 🤓 cheers 🍻

[@kristoff91]

Amazing video. I currently live in Dallas,Tx so i resonate with the locations and have been inspired. I noticed it does have a little amount of distortion because it is a 19mm. I own a 20mm 1.8 at the moment and I am curious if the 24mm (even though it is older) can eliminate some of the "stretchiness". however it seems the quality of the 19mm is superior to the 24mm. Thank you again for sharing the knowledge.

[@renatoviappiani1113]

Ciao Graham, First of all congratulations on your top notch reviews !!!!!! my name is Renato and I am the father of a disabled boy who has a passion for photography and video. As a photography he prefers panoramic photography, even if you can't go anywhere with a wheelchair (we live in Italy). My son would really like this extraordinary lens that he would like to use not to take 360 ° but panoramic shots such as Giga photos (I hope you can understand me, that is a dozen photos and then in case "sew" them with PTGui (if possible). question was this: if using this Nikon 19mm PC-E lens, you also need to find and the nodal point and do all these procedures, or is it enough to use the decetrable TILT and / or SHIFT and take some pictures on a tripod "normally" . Thank you for your possible reply. I will also leave you my emailn if by chance you would like to reply in this way: [e-mail]. THANKS

[@GrahamHobart]

Go to the 12 minutes and 47 seconds time in my video where I discuss Perspective control. In all my images the camera does not move so there is no need to establish a nodal point. Only the lens moves. This means that there is no perspective distortion and the photos will stitch together seamlessly.

[@renatoviappiani1113]

Thank you very much Graham

[@marcustate3513]

Great video

[@1bookhouse1]

Thank you! Now I know why all my images were coming out too soft. I was tilting the wrong way when shooting a very tall building. If i tilted down and then shifted stacked, I would have had a very different outcome.. Now armed with this knowledge I look forward to going out and giving it a new try!

[@GrahamHobart]

Dear Bryan, I hope that you don't mind if I contradict what you are saying about tilting the 19mm PC-E lens when photographing tall buildings. I encourage you to only your use the tilt feature for when your depth-of-field requires getting an object a just inches away from the camera as well as infinity to be in focus. When photographing a tall building from across the street it is important that you don't do any tilting because whenever you tilt to gain depth-of-field in the horizontal plane you will always lose constant focus all the way up the building in the vertical field. Even a tiny tilt may result in a portion of the building to be soft. Whenever I do outside architectural photography where the closest object needing to be sharp is several feet away I actually lock the tilt function with the special tab and try to keep the aperture around f/10 to f/16. Especially if you have shifted the lens to the full extent it will go. One exception to really small apertures is when there is a bright light source in the shot (ie. a bright parking lot light). By opening up the aperture to around f/8 you can reduce the dramatic star bursts on the bright lights but be very careful to check all round sharpness across the entire image. I hope that this helps.

[@alcancemas]

I enjoyed this video and appreciate all the salient details you explain. I'm just a couple hours away from purchasing this lens for myself, however I've used the other three (24mm, 45mm and 85mm). My question is about the vignetting that occurs at the full shift positions. What is the best way to deal with this, short of not using the shift motion to the full extent? I've found that correcting the dark corners in post is not really ideal. One thought I've had is to use shift-stitching when needed, to ensure the entire required scene is within the areas of full illumination. I'd like to know your approach. Thanks!

[@GrahamHobart]

It is my experience with this 19mm lens that vignetting is more to do with the outer edges of the lens element than anything to do with the position of the shift. Therefore any stitching of images will also include whatever vignetting you are trying to avoid. Because I use my own lighting in my work I have the ability to add more light toward the extremities of the composition to balance the scene. If you are working with natural light or can't light the object on the edges (ie. the sky) then correcting in Photoshop may be another option. Nikon offers vignette correction (digital process) in the camera's "Photo ShootingMenu" under "Vignette Control" but I have not researched to see if this is just a generic darkening of all the edges or if the lens' shift is taken into account. If the shift isn't taken into account then one side of the image will be unnecessarily lightened because the optical center will have moved across the plane of the sensor. I hope this helps.

[@danv9637]

Question for you Graham.......when focusing, do you pay regard for the main subject and then shift and refocus in live view for other shots for stitching? Or do you leave focus the same and then just make shift adjustment in live view and take the shots. What about parallax point with subjects nearby? Do I still need to consider a nodal slide?

[@GrahamHobart]

Hi Dan, Usually I set my 19mm PC-E to get everything I need in focus on the first shot and then I do not adjust focus between shots. If you choose to change focus you will change the relative scale of the objects to each other and photoshop will have to stretch/shrink them slightly (Very slightly if the subject distances are similar) to get them to match. In the old days (Bellows studio film cameras) if an object was very close to the camera you moved the back standard but on the DSLR you can only move the lens (front standard) but I can say that I have not photographed something so close that the parallax factor was affected. I guess on my table/banquet shots photoshop was only concerned with stitching the part of the image that was in the distance. If you have a sophisticated nodal movement system on your tripod you can move your lens to the new position after the first shot and then slide the body over so that the lens will return to the exact position that it previously occupied. In effect, it is the body moving and not the lens. I like your thinking and it certainly something to consider when shooting an object closer than a couple of feet.

[@danv9637]

Thank You Robert, I do use a nodal slide for panoramas, but I normally use something like a 100mm for stitching purposes (more distant subjects with moderate amount of foreground). Certainly with something like a 16-35 mm, I find a need to find the no parallel point, so I was curious on trying a few shift shots with shift on a church ceiling with this lens to see how I it works out. I really appreciate your experience on the focus findings. I have to agree with you, it's a lens you really have to work with to get the best, but once you do, it produces some amazing images. Many thanks.

[@JovemAluno]

Thanks a lot for sharing!! I am really thinking about buying this lens! It will be wonderful for landscapes! I have a question: I see you use a Arca Swiss + Manfrotto RC4, right?? But how??

[@GrahamHobart]

I attached an Arca Swiss mounting plate to the normal mounting plate on the tripod geared head and then mounted the Really Right Stuff camera base plate to that.

[@axonom2431]

great explanation

[@lesthegreat]

Thank-You

[@zdravkogalinec5369]

Great video! The last image of the tree, you said it was a composite of 7 images, I’m having an issue visualizing the 7, I’m getting 9? 3 horizontally, and 3 left vertical and 3 right vertical, I am obviously wrong, but not sure how?

[@GrahamHobart]

If my memory serves me correctly it was bottom left, bottom right, top right, top left and center to have enough overlap for that image. But 9 images overlapping definitely works.Thanks for enquiring.

[@chrisgiordanella5931]

Hello Mr. Hobart I would like to know if nikon pc e 85 mm micro has a good resolution for working with such reflex as D810 D850. Thank you for your attention and for your pc 19 review....

[@tomp.7908]

Best review 👍

[@williamgrayharris]

Excellent. Thank you.

[@Ian50S]

Hello Grahm, Thank you for this comprehensive video. I have a question, why did you have such a substantial image overlap with the composite images?

[@GrahamHobart]

I am not sure if you are referring to all the overlaps or just some. The biggest overlaps are probably the interior shots and the bridge shot where I needed just a little more coverage for my composition to be complete. There was no need to see from my feet all the way to above my head. On the stair case shot I worked with the very most that the lens could move. It was the same on the image circle stitch where I worked with all the lens' extreme positions except for the center shot. Feel free to ask again if this doesn't answer your question.

[@arnoeckstein6783]

Hello Graham. Thanks for the review of the NIKKOR PC 19mm f/4 lens. You addressed all of the issues I had with the lens with your detailed review. The use cases you cited were very informative to say the least. The swing movement and the lateral shift movement would be very useful in my landscape work. When I have the money I will buy this lens in a heartbeat. From my understanding Lee Filters makes adaptors for both the 100mm filter system and the 150mm filter system. The manual for the NIKKOR PC 19mm f/4 lens states there may be some compatibility issues with regards to the full range of movements with the D800 series cameras. Did you experience any restriction in movements when you used the lens with your camera bodies? Many thanks. Arno

[@GrahamHobart]

Yes I did try the lens on my D800E and found those issues myself. There are a couple of positions of the lens that can't rotate past the pentaprism (Bulky viewfinder at the top of the camera body). But I found that if you just rotate the lens 180º in the opposite direction you will still get the optical effect you want....just upside down from what you planned. This has no detrimental effect on the imagel you set out to capture.

[@arnoeckstein6783]

Graham Hobart Thanks again. It is great that I do not have trade up from my beloved D800E as it is still an awesome camera.

[@claudionunes3554]

Graham, your 3 videos on this lens are absolutely brilliant! Thank you so much for taking the time in doing this really in depth review of this 19mm pc-e. I do have a question though. I just got this lens, and when reaching f4 and f4.5 I can hear the blades clinking inside the lens (opening). I hear the same clicking on my Sigma ART 14-24 f2.8, so it doesn't worry me that much. However, I'm curious if you hear the same blade clicking on your lens. Thanks a bunch!

[@GrahamHobart]

My "E" lenses are usually quieter than "G" lenses with the manual aperture lever closing the aperture just before the image is captured and then released again. After 3 years of using my 19 mm PC-E I can't hear my electronic aperture when shooting. You say that it only happens at around f/4. This may not be the aperture making the sound because the aperture is already open and doesn't move during capture. A good way to test this theory is to press the "Depth of Preview" button and listen to the sound. Don't do this in live view mode because the aperture will already be set. At f/4 you should not hear anything. At f/32 you hear the blades make their maximum movement as they close to the smallest aperture. Is this the clicking you are referring to?

[@claudionunes3554]

@@GrahamHobart totally! I followed your tips regarding the DOF and now i can hear the blades clicking through all the apertures, and not only at f4 and f4.5! I did the same test on my 24mm pc-e and the results are the same, which makes me much more relaxed :). Thanks again for your time and prompt reply to my question. Keep posting your great reviews! Always a pleasure to watch them 🙏

[@TheCatnipCinema]

Really awesome video!!

[@gkandilakis]

Wow what a video!

[@thomaseriksson6256]

Th

[@christiankaiser8676]

how did you record the live view @ 16:25 ?

[@GrahamHobart]

I was using a Nikon DSLR camera and simply switched from capturing still photos mode to video mode and started recording. The camera recorded the lens movements as I was doing them.

[@donsilcock8714]

Graham, I just want to thank you for these excellent videos on the 19mm PC-E lens. They convinced me to buy mine and are a tremendous help in learning how to use it! I have one question please - which loupe do you recommend for the LCD and LV? I have the Hoodman HB32 which is excellent but does not clip on like yours seems to do... Don

[@thebostonartist]

Thanks very much, this series was very helpful. The only thing I'm lost on, which I am sure is obvious- I'm just missing it... is how do you take the 7 images of the same scene the way you showed??? I get taking 3, 5, 7 or whatever number in a straight shift, but how are you taking them in vertical AND horizontal to make the huge square image? Thanks again, Graham.

[@GrahamHobart]

The simplest way to answer is to say that you don't have to rotate the lens until it clicks into a 90º position. The missing positions you refer to are in between the clicks....at 30º increments. I hope this answers your question.

[@thebostonartist]

Thanks for the reply, Graham. I "think" I understand, but am not 100%. I think my confusion is in whether or not what you're essentially doing is taking a "multi-row pano" by utilizing the tilt and shift in combination, somehow. When I get my lens, I will certainly play around and try to figure it out. Thanks again for your time, and have a great week.

[@GrahamHobart]

@@thebostonartist Did you get the lens and figure out what I meant?

[@thebostonartist]

@@GrahamHobart Yes, did get the lens. I have to say, I love the lens, it's just incredible and a lot sharper edge to edge than I thought it would be. I did figure out what you were saying, as well. However, I have not actually shot anything with that technique, yet. Have been doing a lot of more simple pano things. Here are my first two attempts with the 19... portfolio.thebostonartist.com/Featured/i-jZQHm46/A portfolio.thebostonartist.com/Featured/i-DsdDc7Z/A Thanks again, Graham.

[@JoeReardonPhotography]

what brand and model hood are you using on that nikon

[@doubledark2]

Hello Graham, have you ever come across a situation where the Nikon tilt/shift lens could not give the combination of movements you wanted but the Canon tilt/shift lenses could have?

[@GrahamHobart]

Dear Doubledark, Sorry about not replying sooner. I haven't come across any limitations of movement from within the image circle. Adding a filter to the front of the 19mm PC-E would be a challenge but I don't use filters. I am not aware of any features on a Canon lens that is superior other than it being a 17mm and not 19mm.

[@nnthanhvideo]

Thank you sir

[@BluebirdR]

Excellent Thank you, Graham. Greetings from SA. Cam

[@leguman3780]

Thanks. Most interesting! What tripod are you using btw ?

[@GrahamHobart]

I use many tripods both large and small but the tripod in the video is a geared Gitzo with a geared Manfrotto head.

[@leguman3780]

@@GrahamHobart Perhaps you could recommend a decent travel tripod that isn't too bulky for use with a D850 ?

[@GrahamHobart]

@@leguman3780 I am not qualified to offer advice on a specific recommendation but I can tell you that when I use any of my D850s I use my biggest carbon fiber tripod. It is a Gitzo GT-5531S. It isn't light and it is bulky but it is vitally important that if I am to get tack-sharp images that can be blown up to 40"X60" that there better not be any camera shake in the capture. When I hike for days up and down the Grand Canyon I still take the big tripod. What's the point of having a fancy camera if you don't offer it decent support. Photographers who remain at or below 24MP have no idea how forgiving their cameras are when it comes to sloppy work. Higher megapixel bodies force a photographer to "up his/her game" in many ways and reducing camera-shake is one of the major factors for improvement.

[@leguman3780]

@@GrahamHobart Thanks for the in-depth answer! Yup, that's what I figured. I'm contemplating a GT3543LS or a GT3533LS...

[@alipsettphoto]

Hi Graham. I have had my 19mm PC lens for a few weeks now and have used it extensively. It is amazing! I have a question though. When I have shifted the lens and then attempt to gain a greater DOF by tilting, the perfect vertical lines are no longer vertical. Tilting the lens back to compensate for the falling vertical lines seems to negate the DOF from the tilt. Do you just correct in post production?

[@GrahamHobart]

I didn't answer your question because I have never experienced what you described. Did you figure out what was going on or should we revisit this question?

[@GrahamHobart]

Did you sort out what to do about the problem you described yet? I was thinking that you may be tilting the lens too dramatically. It doesn't take much of a tilt to receive a huge increase in depth feel in a particular focal plane. In fact I never use the tilt very when the closest object is more that 6 feet away. Not using the tilt unless you really need it removes all kinds potential problems.

[@ramirocastroxiques6535]

hi, can i asked if you have been problems with flare (using only the original hood). tks

[@GrahamHobart]

Dear Ramiro, Yes I do have to be careful to avoid lens flare. I cover this topic in my second video (Part 2 kzbin.info/www/bejne/raCohZylhZKfirc). Sometimes the flare is difficult to notice until you get back to the studio because the flares are so small but in those cases they can be retouched. As with any lens you don't want stray light striking the lens but this is is easier said than done. Without a lens hood and with such a wide angle of view I have to be very careful when lighting interior architecture and other scenarios where I need to introduce extra lights.

[@ramirocastroxiques6535]

Tks. !!

[@Ebenzification]

Which one to buy 19 mm tilt shift or 24 mm?

[@kimwilkens8206]

I have just got this lens for my Nikon D850 and start learning. My question: I see you attach the loupe to the viewfinder. What kind of loupe are you using and how do you attach it to the camera? Thanks for answer.

[@GrahamHobart]

The LCD on older cameras is smaller than the the D850's screen so the snap-on loupe in this video doesn't fit. I have not been able to find a loupe that will do the same thing on my D850 so I now use a loupe that you have to hold in place. Let me know if you find a solution because I really liked the convenience of snapping the loupe in place.

[@kimwilkens8206]

Thank you. I will let you know if i find something to snap on.

[@andrewparker6091]

Fantastic! Liked and subscribed....

[@AVTfotovideo]

👏👏👏👏

[@SargentRay]

You sir know your s**** ! I'm old school myself and graduated college in photography in Montreal class of 1981. For years and years i bitched against Nikon (i admit it) for not having a decent T&S or PC lens as they call it under 24 mm. Also as the years passed i grew pretty fond of mirrorless systems especially Sony. But to this day Sony doesn't produce à T&S lens that i'm aware of. So i'm stuck with yet another dilema which is to either fit the Canon 17mm T&S on a Sony body or set aside mirrorless and go all the way back to Nikon. I'm curious to hear your opinion of the matter. Thank's for sharing all 3 videos on this lens, it seems to be quite good, in your capable hands at least :-)

[@clementbertaux]

It is possible to do the 40° rotation and take a picture with the 24mm PC-E ? Or can it only do full vertical and horizontal ?

[@GrahamHobart]

Hi Clémont, It is possible to do a 40º rotation on the 24mm. On both the 24mm and the 19mm lenses there are click positions every 30º but you can leave the lens in between the clicks to create any angle of rotation. Graham

[@EXTRA300s]

Just tested the lens taking 5 pictures from my home. Merge them automatic in Photoshop, the result is realy beautifull, but as you know for sure, I missing the corners. How to take those corners? I just dont get it. Wen anle the lens I see disturbing, so it must be an rotation, would you please explain it to me? Thank you 1000 times :)

[@GrahamHobart]

Dear Josla, I am not if I understand exactly what you are asking. If you have the camera level both horizontally and vertically there should not be any distortion. If you are referring to a combination of vertical shifts by rotating the lens 45º (between clicks) instead of 90º I don't there should be any distortion in the "corner" of the image circle either. My guess is that you are either tilting the lens too much (when your subject is more than 1 meter away you probably won't need more than 2 increments tilt to get max depth-of-field.) or you are not getting your f/stop high enough to keep the edges of your image circle sharp. I don't know yet which is the best f/stop for various distances and various shifts but I have been trying not to open the aperture wider than f/11 unless absolutely necessary. If I have misunderstood your question please ask again and I will attempt to be more clear.

[@EXTRA300s]

Thank you for explaining this lens. I have this lens for four weeks now, and make two picures with it for testing. I know how to use this great lens due correcting the lines. But I didn't got a clue what this lens is capable of. Now I got many, many things to learn, it's very complicated for me. I wish you could teach me how to use it. I like urban shooting, especialy old fallen buildings. Wen I see what is possible, how you use it, my stomach turns, I don't think I can learn that. I was using my 14-24mm all day, and I am not satesfied from the results, far to unsharp, just like you teach me in the vid, now I now what the problem is, stretching pixels! Igot the Nikon D850, do you know if there is an device for loop the screen, I can't see the scharpness on the display, and that's very enoying. Again, thank you for the video I saw it 2 times, and I will watch it a lot aigain. Could you make a video how to stich the pictures together? Greets from the Netherlands :)

[@GrahamHobart]

Thank you for your feedback. Perhaps I will do a video on the topic of stitching in Photoshop one day. In the mean time it should be easy enough to just go to File/Automate/Photomerge and choose Auto as a starting point.

[@GrahamHobart]

Unlike earlier Nikon bodies the D850 has a touch screen on the back a snap-on loupe does not make sense but there are plenty of loupes that you can just place over the screen while holding. The problem I am having is that I have not found a loupe that covers the entire screen. I have to move mine around a little to check the entire screen.

[@EXTRA300s]

Thank you for your patience, you must think : he's appearing everywhere" :) I don’t use touch screen, just not my cup of thee. Nice to know that the loupes are more or less universal. Thank you for helping me out.

[@Ebenzification]

which one is better, 19 mm or 24 mm. Can you please reply

[@GrahamHobart]

These are two very different lenses. I use both about the same amount of time. I only use the 19mm when I really need the wider angle or a more dramatic perspective. But because of the more natural look of the 24mm angle of view I use the 24mm whenever possible. The image circle on the 119mm is larger than the 24mm so there is more movement on the 19mm. The 19mm lens is more versatile than the 24mm. Take a look at the first video in this three part series where I do a first impression and a two lens comparison.

[@Ebenzification]

@@GrahamHobart Thanks sir

[@fatihgokmen4353]

What is the viewfinder?

[@GrahamHobart]

Hi Faith, I presume you are referring to the magnifying loupe that snaps onto the LCD screen viewfinder on the back of the camera. This particular one is for my older cameras that don't have a touch sensitive screen because there is a sheet of protective glass slightly above the LCD screen to protect it. It is called: GGS DSLR 3X LCD View Finder Loupe and can be purchased on eBay, Amazon and other places.

[@fatihgokmen4353]

Graham Hobart Thank you, this is kind.

[@ChrisCameronPhoto]

Thanks Graham, Liked and subscribed. Very informative. I just picked up the 19 PC-E (My first Tilt Shift lens) and getting your insights has been incredibly helpful for me to get my head around using this amazing lens. I do have one tiny criticism. The example where you create a panorama in the theatre with a standard wide angle by rotating the camera using your geared head, creates a difficult stitching job for PS mostly because you are rotating the rig a VERY long way away from the nodal point of the lens. I recently switched from geared head to Video fluid head and L brackets (enlightened by Hudson Henry video kzbin.info/www/bejne/m6GzhISXjtOIbq8) This allows me to more easily place the nodal point above the centre of rotation (plus a whole bunch of other advantages).

[@GrahamHobart]

Hi Chris, Thanks for the input.I do agree with you. Using the nodal center will definitely improve the overlap of the three images for stitching. But the overall point I would not want to distract from is that the shape of the image looking like a "bow tie" once photoshop merges the three remains the same. Great feedback. Thanks. Graham

[@smallbrownfox594]

Really excellent, thank you.