Nikon F3 Overview / Review Part 2 featuring the MD-4 Motor Drive

[@supernova87a]

How considerate that they designed a holder for the little mounting cover while not in use! The thoughtfulness and refinement in design of such a complicated device was really amazing. Really brings you back to a time when things had to be hardcoded in metal and designed well. Thanks for a great detailed video!

[@rockartistet]

MF-6 and MF-6B is the backs that stop the film leader winding into the film canister. Fantastic review

[@JonnyEnglish-gu1cs]

The sound from the MD-4 is gorgeous for me the F3 is pure class some of the most famous images have been captured on Nikon’s and particularly the F3 it was good enough for NASA love it

[@markteague8889]

Additionally, the MD4 motor drive will power the F3 camera body’s electronics in the event that the lithium cells are not present or depleted.

[@jeremyfielding2333]

Light only reaches the inside of the film spool, you don't risk fogging the film if the motor drive disc is not in place. They thought of that.

[@forsterl.stewart414]

PRO TIP: I always put a small felt pad ( like the ones for furniture , get them at hardware stores or dept stores) on the illumination switch.

[@AQANVISUALS]

I literally was looking at these today with the f3 I NEED IT !!

[@colynbarrett8127]

Great Video. Going to try ...The MD 4 Grip Tomorrow. Unable to travel far ,as I only use ..Public Transport! Great Tip with the ..Manual Film Rewind Option! I Always like to leave the end of the film out, as I Find it better, when you Develop Your Own! Many Thanks.

[@belowaverage7539]

PRO TIP: Always use a proper sized coin when removing the battery door. i learned that the hard way.

[@markteague8889]

A US Nickel works best.

[@SuperD1958]

Thank you for this video-------I just got a minty F3hp and an MD-4 in mint cond in a 2st hand store (very dusty and dead batterys) for $20 us dollars and it works grate .....the film counter on the MD-4 Is what had me stumped But You made that clear to me....So Thank You For Posting this Video!

[@Samsung9alaxy]

d b Glad it helped. Enjoy your F3!

[@SuperD1958]

I will I am sure! Have been a film man for 40 years! I do have a new Nikon D7200 But I feel that Dslr user are for the most part Lazy and always photo-shop everything they do where as I as a Old School film Man do everything in the Box, as it were. I also got a 50mm 1.4 and a 24 2.8 in this kit as well as a SB-12 speedlight........all working and very minty!

[@tomhughes5123]

yep i still use mine today with fuji velvia 😀😀😀 , god i love this thing ,

[@kevl6766]

Your videos are extremely helpful. Thank you good sir =)

[@alexanderpeters2934]

Does the double exposure setting work with the motor drive attached

[@fxvsdx35]

Great Video. Very informative. Many thanks.

[@karlos6495]

Hey there, nice review. I managed to pick up an F3 for £12 from a charity shop with a 28mm 2.8 lens. ha what a bargain. Thanks for running through all the controls, you were very thorough. Just couple of questions though 1. what are the blades on the lens for? my 28mm has them too and 2. apart from cleaning/ maintenance whats the point of the mirror lock up? does it have a photographic purpose? Thanks man

[@Samsung9alaxy]

Thanks for your comments. You've got a great bargain there! The blades, known as rabbit ears, are for engaging with a pin on the finder of a Nikon F or F2 camera. It tells the camera what aperture you have set. The F3 (and later models) do not use this as they have a AI lug on the camera mount that reads the aperture from a groove cut out on the lens mount. Most AI and AIS lenses have these blades so they are compatible with the older cameras. The main function of the mirror lock up is to give less vibration when the shutter is released. It's mostly used for long exposures when the camera is on a tripod.

[@karlos6495]

Samsung9alaxy Thank you mate, you're very helpful :)

[@VMr-w4x]

Thanks for your video its help me a lot!

[@swansong007]

Hi love watching your videos. Which has resulted in me buying an F3 press. Now that camera has no cable release function in the shutter button. But having watched this video it gave me an idea that if I had an MD 4 fitted I could use a remote release in the lower socket? Is that possible? And do you know what that remote release is called please? Thanks very much

[@Samsung9alaxy]

www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/nikonf3ver2/motordrive/index3.htm

[@sylvawvw4207]

I got an MD-4 motor drive recently. The seller said that it worked. But when I have inserted 8 new AA batteries, the red lights cannot be turned on.

[@Samsung9alaxy]

Check the battery contacts for corrosion. If they are OK, you could try tapping the drive on a hard surface. Be careful and I am not liable for any damage!

[@CDNChaoZ]

Which one do you prefer more, the F2 or the F3? I have a FE2 and I am interested in adding one of these legendary F cameras to the collection.

[@Samsung9alaxy]

You should add both to your collection! The F2 is the best mechanical fully manual camera, so if you like shooting in manual mode get that first. The F3 is more refined with it's electronics and aperture priority mode and was Nikon's best selling pro camera. I use all my cameras and get a lot of enjoyment from using them. If I was stranded on a desert island I'd like to have my F4, with a processing lab nearby! :)

[@SuperD1958]

The F3 gives you a fast manual speed + auto Like your FE2 only faster (I have Fe2 Fm2n two of them and Fm2 as well as Two F3's) now if you can find a FM2N that will give you speed of 4,000 ( with right lighting you can stop a bullet in flight)

[@12345678bustr]

It depends your use case. If you want to shoot with pre-ai lenses then you have to use the F2 since the F3 won't meter with the silver prong of pre-ai lenses. If you want to shoot waist level photos then you are better off using the Nikon F3. The F3 displays all of your exposure information in body so when you remove the finder for waist level shots you can still meter. While the Nikon F2 only gives you your exposure info when using a finder, remove the finder for waist level shots and you need an external meter.

[@alex1movies]

When I take a shot on my f3 with md4 the microprism de-focuses each time and I have to re-attach the lens to fix it. Do you know why this is happening,thanks

[@Samsung9alaxy]

There is no reason why this should happen. Take off the lens and viewfinder and see what happens to the focusing screen & mirror when you take a shot.

[@riekielabuschagne4957]

Please help, I am from South Africa. I inherired a Nikon F3 camera , lens = nikkor 50mm 1:18 ratio, motordrive Md4 118172. I would like sell it. How much should I charge for it in South Africa. I believe it is worth quite a bit.

[@Samsung9alaxy]

I live in the UK, so I really do not know. Is there a eBay or similar auction site in South Africa where you can check the prices?

[@polderlu6563]

it's hard to find a F3 with MD-4 in this perfect condition now

[@SuperD1958]

there out there I just got one for $20 bucks

[@sputumtube]

Your equipment looks brand new - it must have cost a fortune.

[@fanatical16]

hi can anyone help me?! i just bought myself a nikon f3 but it only goes with 1 lens, and I'm just wondering if i want to buy another lens, what type should I buy ? something I can used for a long distance shots.

[@Samsung9alaxy]

Hi, it depends on what you want to shoot! For a general good quality telephoto lens, this 200mm f/4 Nikkor is great: www.kenrockwell.com/nikon/200f4ai.htm

[@SuperD1958]

your looking for the lens that Have AS or AS i

[@michaeltuffin8147]

Boring

[@alexanderpeters2934]

Does the double exposure setting work with the motor drive attached

[@Samsung9alaxy]

Yes!

[@alexanderpeters2934]

@@Samsung9alaxy how

[@Samsung9alaxy]

@@alexanderpeters2934 You set the double-exposure lever, take the shot and the motor cocks the shutter