Nintendo SNES (Super Famicom) PSU (Power Supply) Repairs

[@LucaBlightOfHighland]

Once again despite my difficulties with the English language, a video of yours was the only one that really helped me in a repair, thanks to the endless stream of information you keep giving while you are working.

[@GadgetUK164]

Glad it helped!

[@ivanpreost7140]

damn, very good video. All this explanations are awesome. You know the stuff. Thank you

[@blackcountryme]

I just repaired a SNES UK power pak, I tested it with a multi meter and the thing worked if you wiggled the wire near the power pak end. so after waiting for a spanner bit to arrive so i could take it apart, I fixed it... Wish i had seen this video first about putting the strain relief boot back on (WD40 etc)... :/

[@Zooumberg]

Have you tried boiling the grommet in water to make it more pliable?

[@PhilKett]

If I remember my school physics correctly the one you've converted for DC will also work on the UK snes - it'll just pass through the rectifier using a single path. There will of course be an additional voltage drop across the diodes but I very much doubt that'll cause any problems. You might want to wait for other people to comment before trying it though! I could be misremembering things!

[@GadgetUK164]

That's absolutely correct! You can pass DC through the bridge, and it doesn't matter about polarity either.

[@planetfoxdotnet]

The US version also uses a DC power supply. I'm not sure about the newer/smaller ones, but I have a model SNS-001 from 1992 and it uses a 10VDC/850mA power supply that has a weird proprietary connector with negative on the center pin. The reservoir capacitor is inside the adapter instead of the console, although there's a spot for one on the PCB. In place of a bridge rectifier it has a single diode for reverse polarity protection before it goes to the 7805 VR. On an unrelated note, the bridge rectifier you drew in your schematic has two diodes in the wrong direction and would be a short; the arrows in the diode symbols should all be pointing towards the top of the diamond.

[@GadgetUK164]

Thanks =D The diagram is correct, the cathode of the 2 diodes on the left goes to ground, the anode of the two diodes on the right go to +ve. Live at the top, neutral at the bottom. It's definitely correct, you made me check lol - www.bing.com/images/search?view=detailV2&ccid=BG8F%2bK%2b%2f&id=94F82419C8437016F57F07E518C233420AE35DB1&thid=OIP.BG8F-K-_NzqMIKFLHxfhAgAAAA&mediaurl=https%3a%2f%2felectric-shocks.com%2fwp-content%2fuploads%2f2019%2f06%2fBridge-Rectifier-Schematic.jpg&exph=291&expw=417&q=bridge+rectifier+diagram&simid=608018866203724857&ck=F5DED5D22E42840CED3F1EF351861B4F&selectedIndex=6&ajaxhist=0

[@classicsamusaran3817]

i want to buy this screwdriver to open the power supply what is the size of this screwdriver tip compatible with the screw? There are several sizes and I don't know which one to choose.

[@GadgetUK164]

I've got no idea on the exact size - it's best to get a set of tips which contain the few different sizes. If you search eBay you will find screw drivers dedicated to the thing you are trying to get inside. eg. 4.5mm & 3.8mm Screwdriver Security Bit For Nintendo SNES N64 Gamecube Gamebit

[@jacobprice8048]

I have a question. I have a SNES. I have seen Super Famicon consoles for cheap with no adapter, cables or controllers for cheap. Will my SNES hardware work for the Super Famicon?

[@GadgetUK164]

From memory I believe the Super Famicom lacks a bridge rectifier - ie. it expects DC voltage from the PSU. I believe some of the other regions (PAL in particular, but maybe NTSC-U also) have an AC PSU. That's the first problem! Secondly you might find your controllers don't work as the Japanese ones have some diodes or wire links or something inside them (you can modify them to work though). RGB cables also might have an issue with capacitors between regions from memory.

[@aassddff365]

The easiest way to remove the cable from that "thing" near the enclosure is to boil it and then pull the cable with some pliers. It will come out very easy.. Also when it's still hot, you can insert the cable in it.

[@gmonkman]

controllable hot air gun as well - about 140C

[@brettbadly]

Brilliant informative video , that cable sent to you was in a shocking state :)

[@cybermx8896]

Can I use a Super Famicom 100v on a 110v USA socket???

[@GadgetUK164]

I cannot really advise to do this - I wouldnt want to be responsible if a fire starts etc. But technically it would probably work, albeit outputting slightly more voltage as a result. But there's always a risk the transformer could fail or something. It should be protected by fuse, in which case it would be safe to use. If it were me, I would do it - but ensure that I have an RCD on the mains switch box, and make sure its not left plugged in unattended.

[@cybermx8896]

@@GadgetUK164 Thanks

[@DaveCurran]

I've never found a good source of the high power coax cable they use for leads like these and laptop power supplies etc. Any recommendations? Was that 2 core cable any good (after being cleaned)?

[@gadgetuk1643]

Same here! There aren't really any good suppliers of cable that I've found. This wire was pretty thick, I can't remember exact size but it's the same thickness as the original wires, just slightly thicker overal due to extra sleaving on one wire. I didn't make them as long as the insane originals. I went with just 1.5 meters each. Originals were like 3 or something.

[@TheMarinemonkey]

I remember in learning about AC that 1.414 is the square root of 2 and if multiplied with the AC reading from the multimeter gives you the peak voltage of the AC and because the multimeter reads the RMS value. so when rectified, the peak of the AC is very close to what you would get as a DC output. Also wanted to ask where did you get the voltmeter display for your MVS? I would like to find one for my jamma test rig.

[@GadgetUK164]

Very interesting =) The voltage display, something like this (just check physical dimensions before you order) - www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3-5V-30V-Green-Three-digit-Mini-Digital-Voltage-Display-Module-Meter-363-R-/291261547444?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item43d08a83b4

[@electronash]

Just watching some older vids. You actually only multiply by 0.707 (minus the diode drop) for a half-wave rectifier I believe. 1.414 for full-wave. ;) www.bristolwatch.com/ele/basic_ac_rectification.htm

[@GadgetUK164]

I used a full bridge though!

[@electronash]

You did in the later part of the diagram, but a half-wave first. ;)

[@GadgetUK164]

Ah, I see what you mean =D Yes, you are right, if using halfwave its half the value!

[@alliancefinancement2373]

hello i have a question that i think you could have the answer i just bought a us version super nintendo 1chip 01 on ebay and i had and old U.S Snes Ac adapter that is supposed to output 10V Dc ... i tested the voltage from the tip and it reads 13.70 volts DC (unloaded) is it safe to use it ? i dont want it to do internal damage at the price i paid the console haha

[@GadgetUK164]

Yes, that's approx what they all output! Around 12 to 14v DC.

[@alliancefinancement2373]

ok thanks for the answer!

[@9ElevenGamer]

I usually get the cable issue with joypads, I'll generally snip them if it doesn't make the wire stupidly small and do a re-solder job from the cut off point, never had that issue with a PSU, get ready it'll happen this week, sods law.

[@gadgetuk1643]

Hehe, I've never seen a PSU cable with that issue either! Seems very common on the SNES. I think it is due to the insane length of the cable more than anything. People bundle the wires up really tight due to the volume - that's what breaks them.

[@segajcharrua]

the MD1 psu works awesome on the super fami , thats is what i use on it =)

[@Willom]

Do megadrive 1 ac adapters work on super Famicom?

[@GadgetUK164]

+Willom The Super Famicom needs DC input, so any 9v DC PSU should work - provided the polarity is correct. I cannot remember if I have used a Megadrive PSU with the Super Famicom. If the polarity is the same it should work OK. Don't feed AC in to a Super Famicom what ever you do. The PAL SNES can accept AC though as it has a bridge rectifier.

[@Willom]

+GadgetUK164 OK thanks. Do amps matter? Megadrive is 850ma

[@GadgetUK164]

That will be fine for a SNES.

[@Willom]

+GadgetUK164 good to know

[@NotHimJim]

Interesting as always

[@danmacdonald5166]

1.414 = square root of 3. rms = 70% of your ac. which means dc equivalent.

[@classicsamusaran3817]

What is the screwdriver to open the power supply snes?

[@GadgetUK164]

+Game maniaco You want a security bit set like this one:- www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-33PC-Security-Magnetic-Bit-Set-Screwdriver-Holder-Torx-Hex-Star-Silverline-/281634741808?hash=item4192bd1e30:g:HNMAAOSwd0BV0ddW See on the left hand row - it's one of the first 4 bits there.

[@classicsamusaran3817]

what the model screwdriver?

[@nicktsoulli1796]

Nice job with the PSU, and thanks for cracking one open, now i know it's just a transformer and dead easy to fix. Please don't cook your Super Famicom, They run on DC and do not have an internal bridge rectifier. Super Famicoms actually have a 2.1 mm jack and are identical to the Sega Megadrive/Genesis PSU's. Also the Famicom has it's own Ripple reducing cap on the mptherboard just like the pal SNES ( but some US ones don't). Keep the PAL Nintendo PSU for PAL Nintendo and Super Nintendos. PAL systems will work fine on DC on any polarity too, your modified Adaptor should work fine on pal systems.

[@alynicholls3230]

but remember there are 4 extra diodes in the pal unit(rectifier), that may reduce the voltage too much.

[@cutemimi25]

I wish Nintendo of America would've used a similar design for the Power supply for the US for the European/ Australia "where the block is in the middle and the plug is separate" What was Nintendo of America thinking? "Japan made the stupid plug on block design for their Super Famicom AC adapters...gee thanks"

[@71dembonesTV]

Great informative video! Now you need just one more (or an adapter) for a North American SNES! Why they used that awful proprietary plug on just that console is insane! I have a north american one of those to repair actually. Has the rectifier circuit and a 16V 4700uf capacitor on a little PCB soldered directly to the transformer. Behaves strangely; It seem to output proper voltage until you plug it in and use it. The console will flash on for a second or so and then nothing. And the adapters output drops to 2.5v or so. Seems like there must be a failing thermal fuse or something. I'll crack into it and let you know what I find!!

[@GadgetUK164]

That sounds like a wire problem to me! I've had several PSU's for different systems behave that way - measure at say 10v, plug it in and it drops to 2.5v, nearly always the wire!

[@71dembonesTV]

Well this one must be one of the exceptions. I honestly expected it was my fault as I soldered on the new connector to fit the super famicom port. If it wasn't that; I figured a flaky cord would be the culprit. Unfortunately, it does the same thing even after I de-soldered the power cord from the pcb. It outputs 13. 4 volts dc for about 5 seconds after being plugged into mains voltage, then slowly drops to nothing