Nintendo Switch Lite USB Type C Replacement Changement

Demonstrate how to replace the damaged charging power DC Jack of Switch Lite
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[@ethiceze54]

I’ve had a few come off with no problems and a few that I had to use chipquik to get off. The chipquik makes it so much easier, so now I use it most of the time when desoldering. That stuff really works well.

[@kimura317]

I was looking at using chipquik but I wasn't sure I'd be able to get to the innermost row of pads that's directly under the USB port. How were you able to get the chipquik to those pads?

[@ethiceze54]

@John Bronson Yeah, unfortunately you can't add it to them. I should have said it helps make removing most of it easier, but not the underneath pads. Every area you can add it to to lower the melting point does help though. Tbh, the best thing I ever did was get a good station, with a good heat gun and a good preheater. That's definitely what has helped me the most. On boards like this I try to not use hot air guns when I can, but this port definitely requires one. Add chipquik everywhere you can (or leaded solder if you dont have that), and lots of flux. Then cover everything you can with kapton tape or whatever you have around the port, and bust out the heat gun. Hidden pads are always a pain.

[@kimura317]

@@ethiceze54 thanks for the response! I'm going to be doing this repair on my nephew's Switch Lite over the Christmas holiday. I have experience soldering small parts from building FPV drones, but this will be my first time using a hot air station. It seems like the fact that it's on the edge of the PCB will help a lot. I do have kapton tape. Would you say that's the best thing to use to shield the surrounding components from heat?

[@ethiceze54]

@John Bronson Yeah, the location of this port definitely makes it less intimidating. As for Kapton tape, it's ok for this application if you have experience with it, but kapton tape really isn't great at all compared to other things. I use it because I've replaced enough of these that I'm comfortable using it. I also have lots of it and try to use it when I can so I dont waste all my good aluminum tape. I even have a water/clay based gel I use for certain things thats pretty awesome. I was just kinda generalizing I guess there thinking everyone's experienced with this specific job, and probably has kapton tape laying around. Sorry about that, lol. Aluminium foil tape is what I'd use if I were you, if you can find it. Aluminium foil that's not sticky backed will be fine too. If you order tape, it's best to get good tape from reputable places. That goes for kapton tape too. The stuff on Amazon is trash. The Aluminium tape I use is advance tapes at502 silver 45mx50mm.

[@mrnice8981]

which tape you are using the aluminum one?

[@bralnok2999]

Hello! Recently bought a Nintendo switch off hand. They said that the dock mode was working and stopped at one point. I noticed a bummer of the leftmost pin (switch screen down). According to the specification, this is pin GND. The switch itself is completely working and the light is on in the dock (the dock is working, checked on another switch). The TV also sees the Nintendo switch (as a source via HDMI), but there is no picture. Is it possible that because of him there is no picture on the TV? If there are mistakes, then I'm sorry (I don't know English very well). Thank you in advance.

[@waldogonzalez3798]

I have the same issue

[@blaingunter]

I like how easy it is for everyone else, wish the laws of physics applied the same for mine.

[@melannieworld]

What's the temperature of the heat gun and speed when removing it and putting it back?

[@IntelliAli]

300-350 degrees celcius. i do micro soldering, IC chip replacements and charging port repairs

[@LanxPenzenpepper]

My Switch's type c is a little bit bend smiling like this shape ( But more subtle, it's almost not noticable at first glance... Should i be worried? It's charging fine. I just got it last December and i noticed it now...

[@kabeuchiha]

Amateur here! What alternatives can i use for that heat machine? You are the first youtuber Ive noticed using foil, is it really necessary? Or do you consider it a bit overkill? Ive solder before and never used flux. Why should I use it? Makes it easier or protects the components? THANK YOU

[@Just_a_normal_angelo]

A blowdryer

[@winortraining6600]

Ma switch charge parfaitement mais n'affiche rien sur la TV , faut-il changer le connecteur type c ? (le docks est neuf est fonctionnel tester sur une autre switch)

[@shellcracker18]

Did it fix the issue?

[@melannieworld]

whats that silver tape you are using? whats it called or where can I buy it?>

[@mjtheblurr3492]

I think it’s foil

[@ghaziterbela]

Aluminums tape you can get it from eBay

[@cockneyb2k]

My kids have gone through 3 of these things. Might start doing it myself. Looks easy.

[@janicasa20]

What was the liquid that you used on the last part of the vid before brushing it with a toothbrush?

[@DZenitram23]

isopropyl (alcohol)

[@BaamAlex]

Isopropyl or flux remover.

[@MarcolinoMDM]

Che temperatura Usi con la macchina Aria?

[@guney8401]

You dont need to use iron solder in thos process? Just heat gun and fkux???

[@yop2590]

Bonjour la pate injecter a la seringue c'est du flux de soudure ??

[@Leroy16o]

Does the original switch and the lite use the same usb c port for charging or are they different? I'm replacing one on a lite but may have ordered an original usb c port

[@pablohdz14]

they are the same but the original ones is more larger so you need to file off a bit the case for it

[@Leroy16o]

@@pablohdz14 thanks man, so I definitely soldered it wrong, I could tell it was bigger since the case for the light wouldnt close correctly but its not even charging

[@SupraViperhead]

@@Leroy16o You can get an OEM Switch Lite Charging Port and not have to do anything to the case. The one they used in this video has a protruding shield, which you can plainly see. Get an OEM one, they are literally $7 where as the regular one used in this video is about $10. Save yourself the hassle of having to butcher your case.

[@420BillyBlaze]

What’s the shiny stuff you put on the board to not burn it? I need to buy some.

[@chrislee-if5iq]

This is soldering flux.

[@BadBubbles1205]

Guess what, i had 16 extra parts left over, a burnt finger and just bought a new Nintendo lol

[@YoureDoingItPeter]

Same burned chip board

[@stevenyamada70]

What is your temp and flow?

[@melannieworld]

do you know the name of that silver thing his using to to protect the pcb?

[@stevenyamada70]

@@melannieworld I've used aluminum foil before for larger boards, but just stick to kapton tape for smaller to medium sized boards.

[@melannieworld]

Thanks for the info.

[@zxletul]

@@melannieworld I ask every where for that and no one tells me....i think its just a regular Tin with flux idk.....help here to?

[@RATCHY1991]

Whats the liquid he used please

[@skate_health7319]

Is this possible to do without a heat gun?

[@DeFerrusJDavis]

Can I pay you to do mine

[@alexigeek]

Temp??? To remove ?

[@amg863]

225oC

[@thereaIdeal]

Another non verbal repair video. How helpful 👍🏼

[@gnork973]

Whats this liquid?

[@eddtard2686]

Rosin soldering flux.

[@gnork973]

@@eddtard2686 ahh. Thx. Never knew you’d use something like this

[@SupraViperhead]

WROING USB-C PORT! Your replacement one has a protruding shield which keeps the shell from going back on properly! DO NOT USE THIS PART! Get an OEM one!

[@coreylehnhoff4479]

Can you supply a link to the correct charge port ? I cant find