Nissan Leaf Battery Off Grid - BMS ? or No BMS ?

After roughly 5 months of continuous use, all 48 modules are staying in balance
#offgrid #solar #renewableenergy

[@ScoopDogy]

Curious....I saw this nearly four years ago when I was installing my solar system. I, too, am using Leaf batteries...mine are from a 2011. They've worked great and, like yourself, I haven't had any issues not using a BMS while not charging to full charge. So.....are you still using this system and how's it working?....or have you swapped to something else?

[@mark_osborne]

Hey Scoop, the Leaf batteries performed amazing. I took them out of service after roughly 7 years. I did a capacity test on them and they still had over 90% of their original rating of 2.2 KWHs. Shocking. Sold them to a friend for almost what I paid back in 2016. He added them to his system. Also, the cells stayed perfectly "in balance" all that time, never needing a BMS "balancer". Talk about quality. Since then I replaced both the Leaf and Volt batteries with LifePO4 technology, 54 KWHs worth. I'm running a BMS on all (4) 16 KWH packs. These new LifePO4's work good so far ( 6 months in). I noticed they do NOT stay in-balance (at the top and bottom) as well as the Leaf and Volt cells but the active BMS handles it just fine. Did I make the right decision ? I'm still not sure. From everything I can learn the LifePO4 cells are nearly impossible to catch fire, and that was my motivation to switch over to LifePO4. If I lived in Arizona (as opposed to effing Michigan), I would have kept the Leaf and Volt cells and had them in a shed 30 feet from any buildings and ran with it. But I can't do it here in cold Michigan as they won't tolerate the freezing temps.

[@BeginningfromthisMorning]

Thanks for posting this! We are running a very similar configuration and about to install it in our bus. Very glad to hear it has been working so well for you!

[@richardowens9061]

The key is to start with balanced cells that have always been used together since they were new. If they are all exposed to the same operating conditions, they are all going to age similarly. Also important is to not discharge at too great of a rate. Batteries will start to drift apart when pressed to their limits, which will be different for each cell. But, as long as none of the cells are being pushed hard, they should naturally stay in balance - meaning, you don't need a balancing system. Furthermore, if you use cells that are not matched, no BMS will ever be able to correct the problem. So, stick to using cells that are matched and don't push them too hard (no more than 1C discharge rate) and just monitor the string voltages for problems. But, balancing should not be required. On the other hand, another function of a BMS is to protect against over discharge, so at a minimum, you need to have some mechanism for disconnecting the load if any of the cell strings drop too low.

[@a-aron2276]

I know this is an old video, but a bms is there as protection. It'll be fine till it isn't and i wouldn't like to be anywhere near that if that was to happen, the question is are you willing to have that much risk inside your house or garage with your family inside, for the sake of a couple hundred bucks i would just use one. It also makes keeping an eye on them super simple 👍🏼 this message isn't to the video poster but to the community as a whole.

[@mark_osborne]

Just so ya know, the batteries never get fully charged, so it's impossible for an individual cell to get 'over-charged', like in the case where you have 1 bad cell in a pack and the charge controller just keeps throwing the current to it not realizing it's overcharging the other cells (a legitimate concern if you are fully charging the cells) - likewise, I never go below 3.5 v per cell. I'm almost 3 years in and I keep a steady eye on the cells using a volt meter and they are still within 1/100'th of a volt from one another IE: 3.87 to 3.88. But I do agree, this system is not for everyone, and you have to be aware of what you HAVE and how it operates, and keep an eye on it. One more thought. I've seen example after example of malfunctioning BMS systems that actually cause problems with balance between the cells. It's all over the internet. Chevy even had the problem for a while with the Volt. So .... pick your poison BMS, or No BMS. And the only thing I'm missing is the 'balance' function. I'm already protected from over and undercharging. Furthermore, lets say I have a cell that's starting to drift.... the way I see it, the BMS is going to 'mask' the problem for a while by working it's tail off trying to make all cells the same voltage (assuming it has the capability to actively balance as opposed to the type of balancer that just bleeds off energy). So I won't necessarily even know I have a problem until it gets substantially worse. So like I say, pick your poison. Thanks for the comment

[@a-aron2276]

@@mark_osborne holy moley 3years, yea by the sounds of it you're definitely doing it the right way not over charging, my own comment earlier was more that your setup is pretty uncommon and in a normal setup might lead to problems but yours is doing great! But it's definitely your use case, the extreme high quality, resistance & capacity matched cells and your charging/discharging method thats keeping this beast going👍🏼 like left alone to it's own devices i don't know if it would've lasted and thats definitely something to be proud of. Nice talking to you😊

[@jdsullivan21]

@@mark_osborne how do you ensrue that you never go below 3.5v per cell? I'm building my portable power pack and i'm concerned about going too low on accident.

[@mark_osborne]

@@jdsullivan21 The Magnum inverter has a set point you can establish for LBCO (low battery cut off) - meaning, it shuts off if you ever hit that voltage. 3.5 x 12= 42 volts

[@vtorsi610]

@@mark_osborne So, you have 6 Modules in series at 8.31 Volts each = 49.86 Volts. 2 Cells in series per Module. So, one Cell in one Module SHORTS CIRCUITS. Now, the Charger and the rest of the PACK pushes 49.86 Volts into only 11 Cells = 49.86 Volts / 11 cells = 4.53 Volts. Finally ... does 4.53 Volts exceed the MAX Voltage allowed across one CELL ?

[@ThiwankaWimalasuriya]

I run my leaf module based battery bank without bms. All modules still balanced after 15 months. The bank is charged from solar panels

[@mark_osborne]

This is great news !

[@drsolar]

How big is your system?

[@amoscook3781]

Thiwanka Wimalasuriya what type of charge controller you are using?

[@DavidPozEnergy]

I was wondering what kind on BMS you were using... I love videos that go against the grain. Thanks.

[@fredflintstone1428]

Really interesting that the system is behaving.

[@dchubb42]

Those cheap balancers only top balance. Just hook them up and let them top balance. Going over voltage on a cell is much more of an issue with those LiPo pouch cells. And make sure you program the charge cutoff voltage correctly.

[@mark_osborne]

Thanks for your input :-)

[@ai6mk897]

I really like your setup and inspired me to use this battery. The individual cells are obviously very well made and well matched to each other. Based on your results, when new the cells in a series string are so well matched that they distribute the voltage across themselves evenly. However, as the cells age they will do so at a different rates, resulting in voltage and impedance differences, which will likely result in the max spec of 4.2V/cell to be exceeded. The BMS should prevent this from happening by monitoring the individual cell voltages and adjusting the impedance of the cells in the string. If the max voltage on a cell is exceeded the BMS should shut down the charger to prevent damage to the cells. So, although it may be not necessary with new cells, BMS does provide safety for your battery in the event of failure or aging at different rates.

[@mark_osborne]

Thank you !.... makes sense

[@kadtronextech4383]

Very good job , we actually build the same system but with different type of Li batteries . I have couple of questions please , -How fast the charging speed for these batteries , e.x. 0.5C , 0.8c, 1C ? - Cost wise , how much the price for these leaf batteries ? - What is inverter/charger Max Charing current - what is the max out power for these inverter / charger. - When you run an inductive load like air conditioner units , does the system able to handle the inrush current that is over the rated output power ?

[@mark_osborne]

1) I don't know the C rating but I guarantee you will never exceed it as these batteries can take one hell of a fast charge 2) The Leaf was like $2000 US but the Volt batteries were only $2500 for the pair (for 2) 3) The inverter is rated at 60 amps max charge rate going from AC 240V into the batteries 4) The inverters are rated at 4400 watts each, times 2, times 2 for inrush so over 16,000 watts inrush 5) Yes the inverter starts motors fine. I have a 2 hp motor that will start with no problem. 12,000 BTU AC unit is no problem. Inverter doesn't even notice it. But I have 2 in parallel. Not sure about 1.

[@kadtronextech4383]

@@mark_osborne I guess the USD 2,000 for 24kw.h battery pack , but not sure the USD 2,500 for what size of volt batteries? Can you please add the links for the suppliers for batteries and inverters Thank you

[@mark_osborne]

@@kadtronextech4383 1)The Volt batteries were from a 2015 as I recall, rated at 14.5 Kwh's each. They actually tested @ 1.81 Kwh's per 48 V module x 8 (per car battery) = 14.48 Kwh's kzbin.info/www/bejne/oqizqYijgrSSoM0 2) It's been so long I don't remember where I bought the batteries but all 3 were from a auto recycling yards on the west coast of the USA. The inverter came from an outfit in Texas is all I remember.

[@freetrailer4poor]

Great video again. bought 2 makeskyblue charge controllers (60A, 40A) due to your video and comments. Buying stuff from China just in case they decide to shut it down.

[@mark_osborne]

Hopefully you are as happy with them as I am :-)

[@slavric]

You need at least balancers permanently on the pack. Hybrid inverters have charging parameters configurable, so BMS is not a must. I have full set of batteries from 30kWh nissan and I don't know what to do with them. SOH about 62%. I'm a bit skeptic having them indoors.

[@garymull1972]

Thank you for you're videos

[@mark_osborne]

Thanks for watching!

[@rhiantaylor3446]

I think the problem is much reduced because you only use 6 packs (12 cells) in each series string. The main risk is surely that a single cell could lose storage capacity to the point that 11 cells might be at 4.2 volts (46.2 volts for the 11) with one cell reaching its discharge point and its voltage falling such that you should not be pulling current through it (3.6v ?). I would not fit a BMS but I would leave a voltage monitor permanently across each cell in the installation - perhaps those cheap 8 cell beeping monitors across each cell (not each module). You would need 2 for each string of course. For a few $ you would get a shrill noise if any cell falls below 3.6v.

[@ezmeraldadudortoka7549]

These can be discharged to 2.8per cell and charged to 4.25 per cell.

[@SuperBrainAK]

hello, nice battery setup! keeping voltage the same is for cells in series, keeping current is for cells in parallel. just thought I might share my 2 cents.

[@m1aws]

No BMS is fine. Just ensure you do not (dis)charge to the extremes and keep them all at a similar temperature. This way they are more like capacitors in use.

[@buttondeity3933]

nice setup! im like wow right now, you should a Batrium system hooked up like HBPowerwall does. awesome vid, im subbed too.

[@chuckshumer120]

I think lipo cells need balance because of their design. They have a sensitivity to long charges and bursting into flames. Lithium ion is much more stable and can take fast and long charges where the cells have time to self balance. My 2 cents!!

[@pau1phi11ips]

The problem with Li-po cells is they're usually hammered in high current draw applications like remote controlled aircraft. This highlights the slight cell differences more and you end up with cells out of balance. In a household use the current draw per cell if pretty tiny in comparison.

[@teekay1785]

Lipo cells are not really a fire hazard a BMS for them helps keep the cells working as well as possible only "li ion" read LiNMC or LiNMA etc not Lithium Iron Phosphate chemistry are fire risks

[@MiamiWebDesign]

Awesome setup

[@mark_osborne]

Thank you :-)

[@topspeederalmond]

I am changing from a 24 volt lead acid system in my Sprinter to a 48 volt system. Still trying to decide weather to use Chevy volt, Nissan Leaf or Tesla. Where did you get all those Leaf Batteries? I guess out of one car? I think the I have read the Tesla batteries have less chance of catching fire and off gassing. I am glad I stumbled onto your channel.

[@chrismartin7579]

Keep in mind that the Nissan Leaf is designed to be passively cooled, meaning air cooled. The Tesla battery is actively cooled and has a different battery chemistry than the Leaf. If you go Tesla, I would recommend studying up and implementing the cooling system that those batteries were designed for.

[@user-tf5kg6eo5p]

كيف اقدر اعمل البطاريات نضام 48 فولت لو سمحت

[@ezmeraldadudortoka7549]

What size bolts fit the terminals? Where can I find longer bolts that will fit the terminal?

[@jameshughes8522]

Have any of you off grid solar builders bothered to get a city / county permit for your systems in Arizona (Maricopa County)? If so, how was the experience?

[@frankz1125]

Beautiful

[@mark_osborne]

Thanks Frank !

[@trentsheets4005]

How is the nissan leaf battery work for the past 5yrs

[@1beaverfrank]

That's a really nice system. I would not worry about voltage imbalance because all you need to do is center tap the strings and the imbalance go's away

[@mark_osborne]

What do you mean ? Explain it in more exact terms if you will- please

[@1beaverfrank]

Mark Osborne I should make a KZbin video just for this purpose. I'll try to explain it, let's design a system and for ease of explanation let's use 12volt batteries and make a 48v system, so that's 3 connection points and than the final lead ends. Very simple very easy to keep voltage even in all the batteries. Now let's add another string of batteries, in this case you must use the same SIZE of wire and the same LENGTH ! Put a fuse on the end, looks good feels good and safe,, but it WON'T stay in balance because batteries are not built 100% the same even though thay came from the same assembly line, so to solve the problem with many strings, *Conecting the mid points explained.. You have two 48v systems that have batteries Conected at 12,24,36,48.. Three POINTS of CONNECTION.. so even though the battery bank is 48V at the end the MID POINTS will be a few millivolts different from there counterpart on the other battery string. So if you Conect the midpoint to the other battery bank midpoint "please use a voltmeter to confirm that its millivolts." this will balance the midpoint. At the 12,24,36,48.. All you need to do is parallel the midpoints to the corresponding midpoints on the other battery bank. The same applies if you are using 6v batteries, 2v batteries and many strings. "this is the same thing that Tesla has been doing with there 3.6v lithium banks.. Sorry for the long story. I'll make a video.. SAFETY , CAUTION. Connecting battery midpoints up wrong will cause sparks and blow up causing death or harm to people and Property.

[@mark_osborne]

Yes yes ... I think I got it ! ... I'll check the potential difference between any mid points (should be near zero) before doing anything. I'll practice first with some 12 volt batteries, in series, like you suggest. THANK YOU

[@mark_osborne]

I could take a block of wood, drill 6 holes in it ( spaced a couple inches apart) run 6 bolts thru the holes, then connect the associated mid point terminal of each of the 8 battery packs to the same bolt- effectively tying all 8 common mid points, of all 8 packs, together. Do this for each of the 6 mid points on all 8 parallel packs - right ? I totally see where you're going. I have that right now, only I'm only doing it at the end modules - not the middle 4 modules of each pack. When I'm done, the middle modules would also be independently paralleled.

[@rickymartin06]

nice video lots of ppl in puerto rico are loking to build something like this no power in 80% the island :(

[@mark_osborne]

Oh gosh yes I'm thinking about you a lot- so sorry for your predicament ;-(

[@stevelake5943]

How are your Nissan Leaf modules holding up without a BMS?

[@mark_osborne]

Going on 4 years and all is well... but only time will tell :-)

[@pohlr1]

wouldnt mounting them veritcal make more sense as to let air rise between them with natural convection thus staying cooler

[@mark_osborne]

In my application, the load is so small they don't rise even 1 degree above room temperature.

[@supster1739]

I love the vids BTW. You have inspired me to build my own home battery, much the same as yours. How do you regulate your rate of charge, Max charge and depth of discharge without a BMS? I though the most useful purpose of a BMS was to increase the useful life of your battery by allowing you to preset all those factors... Thank you for the vidios!

[@mark_osborne]

Thanks for the kind words. The rate of charge is limited by the fact that I only have 3 charge controllers that can put, at most, about 170 amps into the 24 batteries because one of the charge controllers is hooked to 12 panels facing south, and the other to 27 panels facing west. The panels never get full sun at the same time. Oh and the 3rd charge controller is hooked to 3 panels facing south. 165 amps is the most I've ever seen going in at one time. Divide 165 by 24 batteries = just about 7 amps per 48 volt battery pack. That's nothing. The max charge voltage is controlled by setting the charge controllers to the max voltage you want to attain. The max discharge voltage is handled by the Magnum inverters - it's called "low battery cut off". As far as battery balancing, I have none and will soon do an 18 month update on how that is working out. Good luck with your system !... and please post some videos

[@jonathanfields4ever]

I hope to do this with the batteries from my Leaf when it gets ready to take a dump. How difficult was it and how much electrical knowledge did you have before you started?

[@mark_osborne]

Not hard Scott, just slowly worked my way thru it. Mechanical engineering background- the electrical part was self-taught. But it's all out there on the internet with minor searching. Voltage Drop calculator was essential to figure out wire size.

[@teekay1785]

Not hard but if you get the battery replaced under warranty you will not have the old battery to salvage. If its not under warranty then do it when the Pack is 75-80 % of original power instead of 65%-70% and you will have a much healthier salvaged pack.

[@onegreenev]

Interesting that you only use 6 modules instead of the standard 7 for a 48 volt system. So why did you only use 6 modules? Im going to use a BMS but it is mostly so I can quickly see the voltages at a glance rather than having to measure each one and for redundancy in the event my Charge Controller or Inverter fails to shut things down if a problem arises. The BMS will allow a shut down if a single cell happens to crap out and I'm not going to use any active balancing or any balancing for that matter. Just monitor and shut off if a single cell craps out or the inverter or charge controller fail to do their job.

[@mark_osborne]

The Chevy Volt batteries are sandwiched together in 12 cell increments, so that requires the Nissan Leaf batteries to be the same (because they are in parallel) . Nothing wrong with using 7 (14) cells tho ... probably even better for the inverter as the average voltage is a bit higher causing the current flowing through the inverter to be slightly less.

[@royrobbins2214]

I'm running Leaf batteries also. No BMS and seems to be fine. I have 6 batteries per pack, as you but running, but a 16 volt setup. I fuses mine at 80 amps (#2 copper) per pack X 2. Your wires look awful small # 12 or #10. I don't see any fuses on your individual packs. DC has a lot of voltage drop, worse on smaller wire. I wish I could do my complete house. Yep, I'm Jealous.

[@mark_osborne]

At 48 volts the amperage per pack is at most about 5 amps, nothing for a #10 wire to handle. I have 30 amp fuses on each + wire where it attaches to the pack and I could easily get away with 10 amp fuses. Why do you have yours configured for only 16 volts ?

[@royrobbins2214]

I am running a 12 volt system. When I first started out I had 2 sets of 5 - 100 watt panels and AGM batteries. Tried running in series but the voltage is too high for my charge controllers. The Leaf batteries are 8 volt, like yours. Works fine for 16, 24 or 48. My inverter trips above 16 volts. Looking at changing the system around, including, replacing the solar collectors. I also use a boosting transformer in my truck to go (12 v 32 amps) to (48 v 8 amps) to a charge controller programmed to lithium (16v 24 amps).

[@shartne]

same here mine are staying in balance

[@solarjoyeux5320]

hi what is the ah of batterys all together

[@mark_osborne]

850 usable because I under-charge and never deplete them. 1166 gross amp hours if the batteries were new and you used every ounce of energy they had from a hot charge to dead

[@cutweldngrind]

How are these cells doing? I'm thinking on these to create 24v batteries.

[@mark_osborne]

I have had zero issues, they are staying in balance beautifully. But tomorrow is yet another day of this experiment !

[@cutweldngrind]

@@mark_osborne Awesome. Any recommendations on starter lithium batteries. I'm new and looking at these and prismatic 100ah 3.2 cells. Thanks

[@feltonrolle2457]

How is your system operating & maintaining?

[@mark_osborne]

All is well !

[@XER239]

is each stack of 6 connected in series and then the 8 stacks connected in parallel or vise versa?

[@mark_osborne]

Yes 6 in series = 48V nominal and 8 in parallel

[@alihezam3301]

What i need to do like you with 10kw storage backup i have 3200 hybired inverter

[@TheWaterman1000]

Wonder how I could set up these batterys with a Out back 48v FP1 solar system. I have a 2013 leaf with 9 bars.

[@mark_osborne]

Simple, just wire the Leaf modules in parallel creating (8) 48 V packs and set the charging parameters to float about 48.8 V, then set the inverter so shut off at 42 V and if you are in the camp that says you need a BMS then you'll have to figure that out on your own because I'm not there yet :-)

[@TheWaterman1000]

@@mark_osborne If I understand you deactivate all including the charging volts and just use the floating volts in the mate. You have the inverter and Flex 80 charging cirtcute. I use the grid as backup and shut inverted charging of due to the HBX voltage switching.

[@mark_osborne]

@@TheWaterman1000 Sorry I'm not educated on the Outback terminology as far as how they configure their settings. In the Midnight world, they use "absorb" and "float". I float at 48.9 and absorb at 49.0. So yes, I'm thinking you'd "float" at 48.9. You can always start low, say down at 48.5 with your various settings, then use an actual volt meter and keep track of the cell voltage. Then once you have a handle on it, push the settings up until you hit the safe limit.

[@drsolar]

what voltage are you getting with your leaf? Max and Min? I see you are doing 6 for each 48V. Thanks for the video and your kind words

[@mark_osborne]

3.20 volts per cell (the knee) is 38.4 pack voltage (minimum) and 4.20 volts per cell is 50.4 pack voltage (maximum) . I have the LBCO in the Magnum set at 39 volts and the Midnight Classic Absorb is set at 49.2 and Float set at 49.1. 49.1 = 4.09 cell voltage, but in reality it is 4.08 due to the tiny voltage drop between the Midnight Classic and the battery bank. 4.08 is the most you really want to be for longevity of the battery pack. Hope this helps.

[@drsolar]

Very helpful. Thank you

[@ShaneS071]

@Mark Osborn what size is the shelf you are using

[@solarandwindinsouthtexasda1473]

What are you using this Sky Blu to charge

[@carterjohnson25]

Question - How do you avoid them over discharging? Does the inverter CUT power if it approaches 3.2v? Or do you just hope you never go below? Thanks!! Building a similar setup as I type, but for an electric boat. Cut off when dead is critical for me as motors draw 4000w

[@mark_osborne]

Yes the Magnum inverter has an adjustable LBCO (low battery cut off) and I've got it set to 38 volts which equals 3.16 cell voltage.

[@carterjohnson25]

@@mark_osborne ok. One more question. What charge controller are you using? Does it just go into the collective negative and positive bus of your 8 packs? Charges them all as a single battery?

[@royamberg9177]

Nice System. Do you have fuses on each string of batteries. I think I seen some

[@mark_osborne]

Yes, just simple 30 amp in-line automotive type fuses in their own fuse holder on each of the 8 - 48 volt modules

[@XER239]

So why not build parallel stacks and connect those in series?

[@XER239]

could it be do to the module being 2S2P that a stack in parallel wouldn't balance themselves because of the series connections within each module?

[@edwinrivera5155]

Wwaaaooo love the way it's set up

[@mark_osborne]

Thanks Edwin !

[@robbass92]

my axpert duo eliminates the need of wizbang jr. and charge controller

[@mark_osborne]

yes MPP Solar does a nice job of combining it all :-) Will the inverter start a 3 KW electric motor ?

[@robbass92]

@@mark_osborne yes can do

[@topspeederalmond]

How many solar panels do you have and generator? Nice set up.

[@mark_osborne]

I have 42 solar panels and 1 generator. Thanks

[@richardwild-realtorwithace7837]

how many AH is this? how large is your home.shop? going off grid and like the idea of this.

[@royamberg9177]

Will that take the voltage. What I'm saying is if it blows will it arc to hard and go in flames. I don't think it's rated for that voltage

[@mark_osborne]

I tested one, meaning, I intentionally shorted one out @ 48 V. It instantly pops- just as if it were hooked to a car battery. A non event of monumental proportions ;-)

[@royamberg9177]

Ok. DC arcs and don't stop untill the gap gets wide enough. If it works properly your good to go

[@m1aws]

DC arcs less than AC. Explains radio waves.

[@offgridinthepacificnorthwe3210]

That may be true about radio but when I weld with AC the arc stops when I pull the rod away just a little bit but when I weld with DC I can pull the ark away from the work and it still maintains the arc from 4 inches away or more depending on the current setting. As an electrician I have found DC to maintain the arc where AC is interrupted because of the voltage passes the zero plane every cycle. This is why AC fuses and breakers are very different from DC fuses and breakers IMHO.

[@tomas5650]

Mark, if my charge controller has a proper overvoltage cutoff, and I always keep an eye on the low voltage (making sure to turn off my inverter beforehand - or getting a battery disconnect switch), will I be ok without a BMS? The battery packs all came from the same car and I'm having a heck of a time finding a BMS that's not shipped from China (1+ month delivery) and need to increase my battery bank ASAP. Should I be concerned about individual cell voltage drifting? Does it make sense to get a dedicated battery balancer?

[@mark_osborne]

Well, the jury is out ! ... I'm doing exactly what you suggest, running without active, individual, cell management. But according to many, I'm an idiot. Only time will tell :-)

[@teekay1785]

You are not continually checking the voltage of each INDIVIDUAL CELL like a BMS does . The Charge Controller is checking the WHOLE PACK voltage to decide if ok to charge NOT EACH CELL! If one cell develops high resistance read as low voltage the BMS will disconnect the battery bank and show you which cell is a potential problem so you can replace it or determine if its a problem. One cell would be very unlikely to make the voltage of the whole pack be outside the charging parameters of the controller so it will keep charging . The one cell with high resistance will eventually overheat or short out likely causing a catastrophic fire

[@teekay1785]

@@mark_osborne No the jury isn't out its waiting for the moment that its too late for you to pay attention to it. Maybe you will get LUCKY or NOT UNLUCKY and maybe you wont.

[@lkhbhydroponic6858]

Does anyone know why people don't use Prius battery as powerwall or back up battery?

[@pol1250]

too small

[@offgridinthepacificnorthwe3210]

Greetings Mark. I am interested in EV batteries especially if I do not need a BMS. How much did you pay for your Nissan Leaf battery? Here on the left coast, If I could find one I would pay about $5500 for a heavily used Chevy volt 16 kilowatt battery. I may have asked you this and forgot lol. You can email me the answer if you prefer. Have a blessed day my friend.

[@mark_osborne]

Responded via email

[@drsolar]

How are you batteries Mr. Osborne? And they still in balance sans BMS

[@mark_osborne]

Yes ! I need to do a video on this :-)

[@drsolar]

Can't wait. Which do you like better. The chevy volt or the leaf?

[@mark_osborne]

They're both "awesome"... but the Volt is a better value, meaning, the cost per Kwh is less than the Leaf

[@drsolar]

Mark Osborne thank you. My big challenge is the voltage limits on the Volt. I will look at it again.

[@clarkkent0]

Maybe a stupid question but how come you are using 6 modules instead of 7 in series like other systems I have seen?

[@mark_osborne]

The Magnums and Midnight Classics will happily play with either configuration

[@edwinrivera5155]

Maybe you can help me setup my home ,it going to be the half of you have

[@mark_osborne]

I'll be glad to help