Nissan Leaf Front Brakes - Proper Job

[@sgcars6731]

I added the service manual in the description. I also made a shortened version (5 minute) of this video for those that don't experience rust issues: kzbin.info/www/bejne/qWrKcpuqeZl7qtk Since the brake fluid is a closed system, when the pads wear, the fluid level drops, but when you change the pads and press the pistons, the fluid goes back to the full level. That means if you added fluid while it was low, it might overflow when pressing the caliper pistons.

[@WoodysWorksGarage]

Your video pretty much covers it :-) My one critique is your jack method. I see countless damaged rocker/pinch welds, particulary on older cars in the rust belt where that tab is bent over. Once damaged, it rusts, and a few years later, you have potentically have no lift point! I had one in my shop last week where the entire area had rusted out. I've used a variety of solutions for this, but the best in my shop are aluminum (magnetic) slotted cups that protect the rocker pinch weld at the lift points. A hocky puck with a slit cut into it works too. The video was great...I just cringed slightly when you lifted the car! Cheers, Dennis.

[@ShawnGuertin]

Yes, the front ones are completely solid and won't bend, the rear ones are rust and dust kept together by the surprisingly flexible paint... It may be the official jack points in the manual, but 10 years later they rust, and now I prefer using a different point closer to where I put the stand in the video, but hey, that was recorded 2 years ago when I had even less rust. I have a hokey puck for that purpose, but I knew I would get away without using it. Now if someone else is reading this, use our own judgement, try not to bend the tab, and if you are unsure, this is a solid spot: proxy.imagearchive.com/c2c/c2cfd4b8f1c7100e834c66a141091bad.jpg

[@michaellippmann4474]

Great video...no critiscism but maybe a quick clean up of the caliper and bracket and a lick of paint. Doesn't cost much but can help with future disassembly/servicing. Your slide greasing advice is spot on and yes replace those rotors, I never reuse rotors always put on a new set! Cheers and enjoy your Leaf! Mike 🇨🇦

[@sgcars6731]

I used to do that, but because of the salt here, the rust forms back after 2 years, so now I only make sure that the bolts have anti seize and that the friction surface are clean, I let the rest look as ugly as it wants as long as it's still structurally sound (that bracket won't rust through for a long time)

[@michaellippmann4474]

@sgcars6731 yes you are correct...those brackets will last a long time. I am just stupidly over anal about stuff like that...🤣🤣

[@uu11225500]

Hello dear Do we need to take the main battery fuse out to do this brake pad job or it’s safe to do it like conventional cars. Thanks

[@sgcars6731]

Hello, no need, don't worry about the high voltage unless you do something that involves disconnecting an orange cable (which is not involved here)

[@WindowsXP123-l7f]

After at km you change brakes?

[@sgcars6731]

It was 2 years ago, I don't remember, besides I'm not sure if the previous owner changed them.

[@WindowsXP123-l7f]

@@sgcars6731 but yeah, at 30.000-80.000 or to much?

[@LasVegar]

Gonna change mine 85000km on one tha bake is not EU approved anymore​@@WindowsXP123-l7f