Nissan LEAF PDM Replacement

[@leccyvehicle1380]

I just watched this video. I have never seen a clearer one, and the chap doing the PDM replacement has a nice calm professional manner. I watched it for the early on bit of removing the plastic cover to gain access to the Battery Controller Data Connector but then proceeded to watch the lot. Well done Alex. The PDM job is no more complicated than a cylinder head job on a combustion engine, and the bonus...clean hands!.

[@timothycooney986]

Would like to see diagnostic videos. In particular, how did you determine the PDM was faulty? Thank you.

[@joycesander]

Alex, you are amazing. I don't know how long you have been working on Leafs but I cannot believe how many parts you had to take out before getting to the main box. I bought a 2012 Leaf in June and thank god it charges level one, which I do. The car has 48,000 miles now. I got it with 10 bars and as of Oct. 27, it has nine. When I charge it to 100% I get 77 to 85 miles, which I think is pretty good. Of course, driving it your lucky if you get 50 miles without using the air!! I live in Florida and it is getting a bit cooler! I am a 69 year old lady (thought I'd put that info in) and bought the Leaf because they are cheap and I wanted to experience an electric vehicle. I also have a 2015 Sonata. You know, my Leaf never plays the little tune that most Leafs play when you turn them on. It just goes on. Just wanted to tell you I was very impressed with your knowledge of this car. I also saw you in another video that a Leaf owner made, who visited your shop. It takes a patient man to do what you do. You made it look easy and I have no idea how you were able to keep all the clips and nuts and bolts and whatever in a place where you could put them all back together. You are indeed a very good mechanic.

[@radionicretrofit]

Regarding that burned "diode" i think it is not a diode despite it's labeled as "D" it might be an inductor. You can verify with a multimeter just te be sure. You can tell much by just D117 and D108 are seems a symmetric data line so they are identical i think. You can measure D117. If it's a diode you can check forward voltage to get an idea what is what. By the look of that topology it can be a clamping zener diode which is used to clamp excessive voltage on that line to limit damage and intentionally burn that 0 ohm resistor as a fuse. Before identifying that diode part number i think there is another problem on that harness side PCB. I believe some overvoltage event happened on another board which resulted that burned resistor and diode. BTW:Don't just swap that board because fault still exists on harness side. You may burn same spot on new board.

[@IrenESorius]

Thank you ever so much for your time and work Alex,, 💖🙏💖

[@dennismuwubya3107]

great job working in those tight spaces

[@dancingrick9627]

Well done and informative.

[@electricvehiclesug256]

Thanks for the great video

[@stevew9563]

Be cool if you could find a local metal polishing shop and have them do a treatment on the lid. Sort of the main focus when you open the hood, be nice if it looked shiney or a cool design on it.

[@lolvie4756]

You could detach the cables by openingg the unit cover while in the car, less hassle…. Nice video carry on the good work 👍

[@mp3mike237]

Do you know what causes the diode to blow? (It seems to be a common failure on the Leafs even the older ones with the charger in the back.) Is it from a bad EVSE?

[@tfoutfou21000]

i just buyed a E-NV200 , and it being a big nissan leaf , i will love to see how interresting this get looking for the maximum kind of any information all over the web

[@xiuzhenliu8209]

great video

[@TonyDollenz]

I enjoy watching your videos. My 3 vehicles are ICE and I'll never buy an EV but I like to learn about them and your videos are perfect for me. Thank you.

[@KSCPMark6742]

It would be so nice to know how to do component level fixes on the PDM, there was a video where they casually mentioned having found a failed diode on the L1 board and pointed it out but didn't mention how they found it or the replacement part. Would it be possible to pop the top of the PDM off without removing the entire unit to check the board?

[@janickbedard736]

ah yeah it was easy for you you already had the diagnosis! everyone is capable of replacing a part!! what we want is a tutorial to know how to diagnose the problem when it does not charge on the a/c terminal! ...

[@Melicoy]

I watched the whole video thank you. If you could discuss costs that would really help alot. labour time and parts. Thanks again

[@AlexEVRepair]

Used PDMs can usually be sourced for around $500-700, and it's about 5 hours of labor to do the swap.

[@bigdougscommentary5719]

Would it have been possible to disconnect the cables at the module instead of unthreading them through the chassis?

[@AlexEVRepair]

Technically, yes. I've done it that way once before, but getting the lid off while it's still mounted in the car is a pain. I'd say this way is (marginally) easier.

[@bigdougscommentary5719]

@@AlexEVRepair thanks

[@zaprodk]

D108 is probably a bi-directional TVS-diode. It needs to be able to take 12V, so I guess a 15V TVS is a good replacement.

[@MiniLuv-1984]

There is a reason the components blew - you need to track down that reason. Clearly the cause is in the PDM, otherwise the components in the new PDM would also blow.

[@70FordMach1]

Can you also swap out the main battery (under the seats) with a used one without computer coding? Just plug in?

[@AlexEVRepair]

Swapping the battery does require some programming if swapped for an "alike" battery, but that can easily be performed with LEAFspy Pro. The battery can also be upgraded to a larger size pack from a newer model, but that requires a bit more effort and hardware.

[@simond7582]

is it possible just to swap the internals of the PDM instead of removing the whole thing, or are the parts matched somehow?

[@AlexEVRepair]

It would be possible, if the parts were available to do so. The whole assembly is not terribly expensive used (~$500) as these things go though, since they are quite plentiful. The labor is the most expensive part of the whole job.

[@luipir]

what about measure burned components in the new PDM? BTW, great video and tnx for sharing it :)

[@gerardogargurevich5945]

Hello nice job I have a question my 22 leaf after small collision on front left (Headlight) now doesn't change Is a fuse or shout it off switch to replace ?

[@AlexEVRepair]

Hard to say what exactly is going on without some more info... What does the car do when you try to plug it in? Does the car drive normally? Are there any alerts present?

[@jr-pl9kj]

the diode is for the proximity pilot PP control for the L1/L2 charger connector, a simple 1n4007 or equivalent diode will work fine for it, and as for the 0 ohm resistor its just a jumper wire "cheap" makeshift fuse, no special components, would make a much easier fix than replacing the whole PDM. would of taken me less than a half hour for me to fix. reasons why i love the leaf, they are actually easy to fix.

[@thayalansuntharalingam]

Can you get the diode info from replacement unit?

[@pirujasinc]

Hi, what codes shows in the scanner before the replacement... i have a 2015 leaf with the p3176-00 and p311c-00, my car got replaced at the dealer the pdm because it didnt charge, but suden something pop at stop running.

[@AlexEVRepair]

Hmm, those codes would indicate that the car can't properly pre-charge the HV system before closing the contactors. The problem could be a shorted out HV component, or a failure of the pre-charge circuit itself inside the battery.

[@speer320]

Platt Auto! Got my bolt which was total loss and my niro from them. All within 6 months.

[@xboxice2005]

Hi is the PDM on the ZE1 2018 Leaf the same or easier to remove

[@AlexEVRepair]

It should be pretty much the same exact process, maybe with a few slight differences.

[@xboxice2005]

@@AlexEVRepair Thanks :) im in the process of changing mine out but I'm missing that plastic cover with those diagonal bolts that you took a screen shot of :( did you know part # by any chance.

[@brocwilliams7186]

Take the component off the good board to see what it is. Then put it back

[@TrevorsBench]

Lots of redundant covers, good opportunity for weight reduction

[@czel3]

Do you ever partner with "EV Rides" down the street from you?? Since they specialize a lot in the Leafs. Or is that actually you? Im a local and was curious bc I know about EV Rides but just found out about you working on leafs, not that long ago

[@AlexEVRepair]

I just opened this shop about 6 months ago (I used to work at a shop in the San Diego area for about 7 years, and am currently "partnered" with them, hence the QC Charge name). EV rides certainly has a.... "reputation" in the independent EV repair world, especially when it comes to LEAFs. Not an outfit I would care to do business with.

[@czel3]

@@AlexEVRepair ahhh I didn't know much about their reputation, I just figured since y'all are both EV focused and close to one another, there might be some communication. That's cool you've come from San Diego though and get to do your own thing!