How to fix oil consumption on VW/Audi/Porsche 3.0T engine?

[@MichaelLynch]

My 2017 Q7 was burning a quart of oil every 100-200 miles. I did this piston soak a little over a month ago and am happy to report success. I'm over 1500 miles in now and no signs of oil consumption! Thanks for the great tutorial.

[@ETMotorsports]

@MichaelLynch well done!! Yeah those are scary starting numbers

[@abdouben4387]

Did your car smoke in road

[@MichaelLynch]

​@@abdouben4387it wouldn't smoke just going down the road, unless I stomped on the gas. It would smoke when starting from a long stop light, upon acceleration.

[@sterlingwhitfield6207]

My 2017 Audi q7 was burning a qt of oil every 150-200 miles & kept misfiring and going into limp mode! My mechanic changed the spark plugs, coil packs & the pcv valve which didn’t fix my issues! I took it to the audi dealer and they told me I needed a new engine which would cost 20k even tho my engine compression readings were fine. I sent this video to my mechanic and was hesitant to do a piston soak with the Berryman b12 but eventually agreed to try it! It’s been 2 months since he did the Berryman soak and I’ve driven over 1300 miles and my mmi oil readings have not dropped at all! Thank you for sharing this video!

[@ETMotorsports]

@sterlingwhitfield6207 love these stories!! Glad it worked... it's crazy how many of us are handed these 20k estimates and are expected to be ok with it

[@MichaelLynch]

I've got the exact same issues with my 2017 Q7, doing the soak now and will report back with my results as well. Thanks for this great how-to video!

[@Ahooonyyyyyahonny]

how is it holding up? need to do the same for mine

[@MichaelLynch]

I just put everything back together, and went for a 20 minute drive at around 3-4k rpms. About to go change the oil once it cools off and reset the trip mileage to zero and see how it goes. Here are some items of note: - Finding TDC was accomplished with a fiberglass rod and some electrical tape on it to measure the up/down stroke while turning the crank - I was able to turn the crank without a special tool, unless you consider a pipe wrench special. I used the upper most pulley and the 4 bolt heads as a turning point. - I put about an ounce in each additional cylinder that wasn't at TDC while the ones at TDC got about 2 ounces for 24 hours. - I used some fogging oil after the soak, so the cylinders weren't bone dry prior to starting - I replaced the spark plugs after the soak (the old ones looked *terrible*, despite being replaced within the last 2 years) After I get it all put back together and some miles on it, I'll post another update.

[@MichaelLynch]

After 250+ miles, I am happy to report that the oil level hasn't dropped at all! I'll post back around 1,000 miles or so.

[@patrickhenry6148]

My 2017 Q7 was using a qt of oil every 200+ miles. Did the B-12 treatment 2 weeks ago. The amount of carbon I blew out the cylinder was amazing. It's 2 weeks now and no low oil light. MMI is showing no oil loss. I used 4 cans of B 12. I used the Shell T6 Rotella for the 2 weeks and then switched back to the recommended oil. I was seriously thinking of getting rid oh the vehicle. Thanks for making the video.

[@ETMotorsports]

@@patrickhenry6148 great results!! Yeah it's pretty crazy what comes out of these

[@mechsuit80]

Did this process a few months ago on my 2013 A6 3.0t based on your previous videos and by sheer luck I happened to be dog sitting for my brother, which gave me access to their vehicles and allowed me to soak the pistons over the coarse of three days. I used three bottles of B12 and filled then rotated the crank three times. While not as precises as your method here, I do believe that I was able to achieve a similar effect as the pistons were never in the same positions after each rotation. Before this process I was burning 1qt of oil every 800 miles and I'm happy to say that i'm currently at 1800 miles and my MMI oil reading, plus my dip stick, show zero burned oil. Can't thank you and everyone else enough for documenting this process and sharing it with us. Thanks!!

[@ETMotorsports]

@@mechsuit80 great results!! Glad it worked

[@gavanphotography7814]

What tool did you use to get at the crank pulley? I can’t seem to get close to it on my B8 S4 cause of the lack of space between the fan and the pulley

[@joshespinoza9450]

Did this to my 2012 A6 and it worked. Cured 90% of my consumption and smoke problems. I wasn’t even able to do exactly what was done in the video and still got these results. Thanks man!!!

[@ETMotorsports]

@@joshespinoza9450 great results

[@MartinGarcia-gm9hy]

2017 Audi q7 that was burning quart of oil every 500 miles. I did this exact procedure, and is been 700 miles and not a drop or oil has burned. I did use 8 cans of B12 during the 3-day process. Thank you so much!

[@ETMotorsports]

@MartinGarcia-gm9hy nicely done! Glad it worked... did you run the engine with 8 cans in or drain without running the B12? That's quite a lot of B12 - why did you end up using so much? What did you do different?

[@sescorderocordero4920]

Thank you 🙏🏽 for posting this video owner of 2017 Q7 same problem burning oil watch your video about a month ago did the piston soak like 3 weeks ago carbon build up was terrible piston 4 like in your video was the worst right after I did the piston soak went to a 300 mile trip to my surprise my car runs amazing my mpg when up came back changed the oil I made the same trip 3 more times because of my son soccer games my car has not burned any oil thank you so much and for anyone having the same issue do this you’ll be surprised

[@ETMotorsports]

@@sescorderocordero4920 awesome results!! It's crazy the amount of carbon that gets dissolved when you do the treatment

[@anonymoususer3470]

Got a 2017 q7 from auction with 71k miles. I was stunned to see it going through a quart of oil per tank of fuel. I don't generally use any snake oil solutions to problems, but figured this might actually be worth a try. Did 1 container of b12 down into the pistons, let it sit overnight with a couple rotations of the crank via water pump pulley, sucked out whatever was left, then fired it up, drove just enough to warm it up, and drained the oil. The oil was very thin, so clearly some b12 slipped past the rings and diluted it, so good to not run it very long. Immediately replaced with fresh 0w40 mobile 1 and new filter, using the drain plug rather than extraction. It's now several weeks later and over 1000 miles, and the oil level has only dropped 1/8 of a quart, which is fantastic. A longer soak with b12 might do more, but I plan to just do oil changes often for a while. Really seems like the crec engine oil control rings are prone to clogging with carbon after 50-60k miles. So instant subscribe because what a great solution! That said, I would be hesitant to run b12 in the oil much at all, it seems really hard on plastics and there is a lot of plastic inside these engines. Oil baffles, timing chain tensioners and who knows what else. B12 is in stock at walmart very cheap too. Thanks so much for posting this solution, eurotrash. I would happily send you a tip for saving the day on this engine!

[@ETMotorsports]

Great results! Glad it worked

[@dennis-unakaproject7822]

First KZbin comment ever! Same issue here with a 2017 Q7 3.0T. Dealer wants 17k for piston ring replacement. I have been adding 1 quart of oil (US) every 500-700 miles. I will try the soak with b12 and update. Excellent, helpful content.

[@ETMotorsports]

@dennis-unakaproject7822 good luck - keep us posted... yeah 17k is mad

[@miguelvega9957]

I performed the piston soak a week or so ago - 1300 miles after, no oil burned. I was at 1,000 miles per 1 qrt. I am confident to say that this has worked for me :)

[@ETMotorsports]

@@miguelvega9957 great results

[@TheShootingBrake]

I did this on my 2018 Q7 3.0T shortly after watching your Q5 video. I also realized that I was not going to be able to cover the entire piston, and it would be tricky to make the relatively small amount of liquid last for all 6 cylinders without overfilling the crankcase. I was on a time crunch so I only did two pours. First was 6 hours, and second was 12 hours. I'm still driving it after that first oil change waiting for that oil reminder to come on. So far so good after 1500 miles. I was previously burning a quart of oil ever 2k miles. Time will tell.

[@aibarberguy3141]

How is it?

[@TheShootingBrake]

@@aibarberguy3141 I’ve surpassed 2500 miles since I did it. No reminder to add oil yet. Checked the dipstick(I installed one where the plug was). All good. Id say it has fixed it.

[@TheShootingBrake]

Update. Im now changing the oil after a trip to the mountains. 6k miles since the soak and my last oil change. According to the physical dipstick, im right in the middle of where I need to be. It’s probably burned half a quart total since I made sure to fill it to the high mark at the last oil change. This freaking worked!

[@aaroncarpenter2999]

Going to try this on a 2017 Q7 I picked up for my wife. It burns somewhere around a quart per 700-1200 miles depending on city vs highway. So far, it seems to burn a lot more with strictly in town driving. I will update with the results! Thanks Eurotrash. Car is at 118k miles.

[@nelsinivr6]

Keep us updated I think I’ll do this on my 2017 also this summer or fall. Ours uses 1-2 quarts between 5k mile changes so it’s not horrible, 100% uses more in town driving and nearly zero on highway… weird. 85k here

[@acarpenter1332]

Will do. I completed the work last week. It was not bad at all. The only thing to be aware of is there is a tool that would be very useful for turning the crank. The harmonic balancer is held on by 6 or 8 triple square bolts and there is not a big center bolt like I’m used to on BMWs. I was able to get around this by very carefully using my triple square on one of the balancer bolts, but I did feel one tighten one time so I don’t recommend that method. I also used the bolt on the alternator but you can’t use only that one because the belt slips. I took some photos of the pistons with my endoscopic camera before and after as well and you can tell a difference. After was post 30m drive right before I changed the plugs and drained the oil. I’ll let you all know how it goes. I’m currently running the Rotella T like he recommended because I already had some on hand by chance. I’ll change in about 1000k miles.

[@ETMotorsports]

keep us posted on the final results

[@acarpenter1332]

Unfortunately I now show the first tick mark down on my oil level after 950mi. This is using the Rotella. I’m going to change the oil back to factory specs and see if I can go 5k OCI without topping up. If I don’t make it, I’ll probably do the B12 treatment again since I have another four cans.

[@mogadan3582]

I have a 2010 A4 B8 Avant with apr stage 3 ,K04,Etc. It was “eating “1/4 oil on 200 mile,smoke especially after I am leaving the stop lights. I go to the mecanic and he said I need new piston rings(my car have 200k mile). I do first BG Dynamic Platinum Engine Restoration Service and after B12 Soaking,replace spark plugs. Every second time when I put the gas in the tank I add a fuel system cleaner( LM Jectron or RL SI-1). all the time I use Liquid moly 5W40 now I change with the new one Liquid Moly Molygen(the green oil). I put 6000 miles on the car in six months and I don’t have any kind of oil consumption or smoke ,the car is running smoothly and I drive 2000 miles without adding oil.( i change the oil every 2000 mile).Now I have almost 2000 miles I’ll try to go 3000 to see if it still consuming oil.

[@ETMotorsports]

@@mogadan3582 great results

[@ultra_sound.]

I've been driving Audi for some time now, and I used to have problems with oil consumption. meet a good mechanic years ago that believe the reason for the oil consumption is related to carbon build-up around the piston and rings. He suggested always using premium gas and oil changes every 5k using Motul or Liqui Moly oil. have been doing this, and I can say I have 0 issues with oil consumption.

[@miguelvega9957]

Thanks!

[@ETMotorsports]

Hey thanks a bunch!!

[@miguelvega9957]

@ETMotorsports Thank you for putting the time on creating this content, Sir.

[@seansok4205]

Definitely need to do this on my B8. Oil consumption is not horrible, but it does burn some. I'm gonna go ahead and get this done while I acquire parts to do the timing chains. Great video, thanks 👍

[@jd-ri6qy]

So I have a 2010 Audi S4 that was burning quart of oil every 500 miles. I did this exact procedure, and so far it's been 500 miles and not a drop or oil has burned. I did have lower compression in cylinder 2 and I noticed that was the only one that had oil in top of the piston. I feel like that's where the oil was going. Car runs GREAT. I think this is the secret to Audi burning issues.

[@ETMotorsports]

Nice results!

[@ETMotorsports]

Did you check the compression after the treatment? Did it improve?

[@jd-ri6qy]

@@ETMotorsports I havent yet, but I will soon and will update you right here 👍🏻

[@Ivan-hx7cc]

​@@jd-ri6qyupdate bro?

[@lauretiu]

if you check the forum for people with this car/engine(crec version) you will see a lot of people that had catastrophic failure while they were driving on the highway out of the blue. you sir might have unintentionally found out why a perfect running engine(with the oil consumption) might just have a catastrophic engine failure out of the blue with that deposit of carbon there. nevertheless sir you are a legend !!!

[@ETMotorsports]

I think that carbon is what's left after the B12 drains down...it dissolves all the garbage in the cylinder, which gets deposited on the lower side of the piston where the last B12 drains... the footage was really bad but with the camera you could clearly see the mound of dirt that was built

[@kdudutse]

@@ETMotorsports where from you sourcing the b12 ? i mean for a reasonable price it Canada ON

[@ETMotorsports]

@@kdudutse few stores online, I got my first order from Amazon, it's also available on ebay

[@stephenbraddy9925]

Very interesting thought ... 🤔

[@kevinmysliwczyk5459]

I just did a b12 piston soak 1 week ago before watching this video and my crank actually got stuck just like this and my tool was a little worn and stripped. So I just used the starter and it crushed/ blew out the carbon and even after that I tried and it got stuck again. So I soaked for another 6 hours and than cranked and started engine and car is running just fine engine is smooth and quieter than Ever. Ive only gone 150 miles so far but so far the oil is still fulll on dipstick so fingers crossed.

[@kumarpatel9061]

Let me begin by saying Thank you for posting this video. My Q7 was burning a quart in about 4-500 miles when i got it a year ago. after doing so much research and doing an engine flush i got a bout 1200 miles before sign came up to put a quart. After watching this video and doing the Piston soak i have driven about 1300 miles and the MMI shows i have used about 1/4th quart of oil. So still burning but nowhere near what it was..!!

[@ETMotorsports]

@kumarpatel9061 great results!!! You can always repeat the process in a couple of oil changes if it's not resolved although I'm guessing you'll be fine

[@Kunic992]

I have a 2010 S5 with the CAKA 3.0"T" engine, i bought the car with 220k km i am at 240k now i change my oil once a year at about ~5-6k km and at those 5-6k i burn about 0,4l of oil so i dont consider that a problem so dont be discouraged from getting a car with this engine, there are other complexities though at these mileages and years, i had to do my chains, every type of seal around the engine and lets not mention the DSG. Best of luck, thanks for the videos

[@JH-sc7cs]

Another win, good job! Thank you for posting these, I'm about to buy a 2014 Q5 2.0tfsi with the ea888 gen3 engine only 118k kms on it and it has oil consumption issues. Owner has advised only been a grocery getter and kiddie drop off car for their 5 years of ownership and used a cheap budget fuel outlet down the road from their home to fill up. Car drives smooth and normal otherwise and has good pick up, and it also has an after market pcv valve which I'm skeptical about as that was swapped over due to a vac leak code at 80k kms, and they said they noticed oil consumption issues not long after cheap pcv valve swapped in, so I'm gonna hit it with a genuine one first and if that doesn't help, B-12 it is!!!

[@ng-ht1vx]

There's a few other options to try now. Valvoline makes a Restore and Protect oil that is supposed to help take the carbon off of pistons and stop oil burning. That's supposedly done over 4 oil changes. Then there's the extreme option with is Valvoline Premium Blue which was developed with Cummins for fixing oil burning problems in their engines. That will supposedly clean a 15 liter engine in 1 oil change, so if one was to use that, I'd be changing oil filters every 200-300 km. That may be worth a try in conjunction with a piston soak. Anyways, good to see that these are still working. And that older footage was really cool.

[@drm916]

only draw back with restore and protect is that it is not audi/VW approved.

[@richardrussell1025]

Been wanting to try the Valvoline Restore and Protect but not sure if it would be safe to use in an Audi. They dont make it for Euro cars yet.

[@drm916]

@@richardrussell1025 I just did the Piston soak on my 2018 Q7 3.0 t. I ended up putting the 5w30 restore and project in it. It's relatively inexpensive to change the oil. So I'm going to run it for a thousand miles and then check the oil filter. Hopefully over the next thousand miles I don't burn very much oil. Previous to the oil soak I was burning about a quart every 800 miles. If it doesn't drastically improve, then I will run the Piston soap again. It will be much easier now that I know the process.

[@richardrussell1025]

@@drm916 I would be very curious on what you find. I also have an 2013 audi a4 burning a quart every couple of gas tank fills. I was going to do the piston soak in October when I can do the down time. I just got the restore and protect oil in from Amazon today.

[@zac.6960]

@@drm916I only ran the Valvoline R&P instead of doing the B12 soak and seemed to fix it.

[@ericnorris9547]

Thanks for the advice and information I have a 19 S4 3.0turbo I will try this on.

[@GOOD__DUDE]

I couldn't thank you enough for making this video! I did the piston soak on my 2018 Q7 this weekend and it seemed to go just as you described (now I just need to drive and see it fixed the consumption). Engine does seem to be running better. The process was pretty hard on this car because the spark plug holes are very deep. I would advise to put 2 oz (~50ml) of B12 in ALL cylinder and turn the crank until water starts to come out 2 of the spark plug holes (indicating they are at TDC). Add 2 more oz of B12 into the 4 cylinders that arent at TCD. Then let everything soak for 6-8 hours. This way you can have all cylinders soaking at once. Then turn crank and repeat this process but put a different 2 cylinders at TDC and let soak for 6-8 hours, and then repeat for last 2 cylinders at TDC.... Just my thoughts

[@ETMotorsports]

Awesome - looking forward to your results... the Q7 from the video is now close to 3k without loss of oil so drastic change from the start... I like your idea about watching the liquid come out to know your at TDC...If you don't have extensions or a scope to see when the pistons come up that's just as good...I think if you're soaking all at the same time though, you may end up using too much liquid? How many cans did you go through? Also did you have any issues with build up of carbon like I did? A few viewers have noted the same thing - as the liquid drains through the pistons, garbage builds up at the lowest point on the piston and prevents you from turning the crank

[@GOOD__DUDE]

@@ETMotorsports I ended up adding 3 cans (45oz) of B12 by the time I was finished. So before I started the car I loosened the oil plug and drained 32oz of oil to be safe. The car smoked for the entire 20 minutes that I ran it with the B12 in it before changing the oil. I had very minor issues of carbon build up and the crank was hard to turn and I had to blow it out like you did. It was a little scary, but I don't think I had it as bad as you did. My Q7 has 74k miles and was consuming about 1 liter every 3k miles after a PCV change. So I figured I would do this procedure before the issue got really bad. Shame on Audi for kicking this issue down the road they way they do and telling customers that 1 Liter burning per 1000 miles is to spec.

[@TheChadls]

The deep plugs is the reason the seals do this

[@lermos]

Hi! Audi q7 4m 140000km. Oil consumption was 1 liter on 400km. After doing this procedure I ran around 1260km and engine asked me to add 1 liter. After a while I ran 4250km throughout the city and highways on Russian roads and oil level was empty on a half. I ride around 140-180kmh during on highways. 1200km left before the next oil change. So i think I won this crazy oil consumption. I will watch the situation after the nearest oil change. Thank you very much. I used solution for valves and pistons on hot engine during 4 hours of procedure.

[@ETMotorsports]

@lermos sounds like it improved but not resolved... try to do the full 24hr+ procedure with the same solution - should be able to solve 100%

[@lermos]

@@ETMotorsports sure. Will try again to eliminate it totally

[@lickwidgoat3480]

Valvoline restore and protect works REALLY well on VAG engines use 5w 20, after my 3rd change, i bore scoped a beautiful 180,000 mile 2.5 it almost looks new! This is not a ad, it works!!

[@ETMotorsports]

@@lickwidgoat3480 did you have oil consumption? What was the before and after?

[@drm916]

My 2017 Q7 3.0 supercharged Crec calls for 5w/40 oil. They dont make it in that weight. But I have thought about trying the 5w/30

[@lickwidgoat3480]

@@drm916 its fine, i use 5 20 and 5 30 depending on the season

[@lickwidgoat3480]

Be warned everything downstream will get dirty like the cat and o2 sensors!!! Run a high quality fuel with cat cleaner

[@lauretiu]

Yeah I am using 5w30 R&P valvoline in my engine too(3.0t q7 2018)

[@mostlypostie1]

Great work. I have done the full carbon clean on a 2013 B8.5 S4 with the 3.0T supercharged engine. Mine had heavy carbon buildup around the valves, but not so bad in the cylinders. That Q7 was bad! I do still burn some oil, so this is now on my list of things to do at some point. Cheers.

[@ETMotorsports]

Yeah the Q7 was carbon cleaned before we did the treatment as well

[@Ahooonyyyyyahonny]

did you do it and did it get better ?

[@sjstlaurent]

Greatly improved on my 2019 Audi Q7. I can’t believe it, went from 400 miles per quart to now no sign of dipping after 400 miles. Thank you for making this.

[@ETMotorsports]

@@sjstlaurent great results!!

[@sjstlaurent]

Update*** I’m coming up on my 5k oil change and I’m almost at a quart down! So much better than expected!

[@barryoverson4988]

mechanic in a can experiments this trend is spreading thanks for sharing i have played around with ideas when i was a kid one that was catastrophic was pouring water down into a running engine i love the effort you put into it scientific

[@kinderutz]

I always treat the piston at bottom dead center...this way you can cover it up completely. And yes, you always want to blow up the cylinder with compressed air. I use a can of B12 per cylinder.pull the supercharger and walnut blast the valves, also replace the PCV valve.

[@Leakybags5]

B12 and then do the walnut blasting? Or walnut blast first?

[@ShaanNotShawn]

Can't thank you enough for making these videos. Was scared to try this, but I knew if I did not get ahead of this issue there would be CELs soon. I picked up an 2018 Audi Q7 with 111k miles 2 months ago. During that time oil light came on 3 times, and after measuring the second time it was once every 200-ish miles. Probably why I was able to get a pretty nice deal from the previous owner. When I removed the spark plugs they were very full of oil/carbon, surprised I hadn't had a CEL yet. The piston heads were very black and coked up. Performed a B12 piston soak for 72 hours (2 pistons per 24 hours at TDC with rotations). I even gave an extra 24 hours at the end to let it evaporate. After the soak and air blowout, I could see the metal tops again. Surprisingly very little smoke came out when I started it up, though there was definetly carbon soot coming out the exahust. Now at 400 miles with oil level reading full. I got nervous a few times because after 50 miles and initial startup I saw the oil drop down a notch in the Audi MMI, but after driving and warm engine oil check it still reads full. Will keep this thread updated. I think at this pace we can get back to 1000 miles at least.

[@ETMotorsports]

@ShaanNotShawn great results! Happy this worked out... pretty much all the cars I've done so far improved with the miles - the first 500 showed a drop, but the consumption gradually slowed down and then stopped

[@shariqarain]

any updates thus far? how has your oil read? I think its been about 2 weeks since you made the thread

[@ShaanNotShawn]

@@shariqarain on vacation so haven't been driving much. But at 450 it permanently shows one tick down now. Will update when I get to 1000miles

[@ShaanNotShawn]

@@shariqarain Now at 850 miles and the same tick down, looking pretty good

[@ShaanNotShawn]

Went on a road trip. Now at 2100 miles. At this rate feeling pretty good about getting to 5000, but if not this was a MASSIVE improvement.

[@glennr9913]

It's great to hear that the B12 piston soak process is effective for the Audi V6 too. It is interesting that treating the pistons at TDC also soaks the valves. I recently did the B12 soak on a Tiguan 2.0 Instead of waiting 12 hours between B12 doses I just waited until the solution had leaked past the pistons, rotated the crank, and added more B12. After a few doses, I noticed one piston held the solution so I only gave it a 1/2 dose. Eventually, 2 cylinders held the solution. Hopefully, my A6 will not begin consuming oil. But if it does it's great to have such a cheap & simple cure. Thanks, 👍👍

[@ETMotorsports]

Great results

[@alemurillo03]

2016 Q5 here... Did the B12 soak 3 weeks ago. Now after 500kms (300miles) the level hasn't moved. Before that, it was almost a 1/4 of oil in less than 1000kms.

[@ETMotorsports]

great results!

[@tkorte101]

I've done the soak on a 2L Q5. I drain the oil beforehand and keep it for later. I refill cylinders each time before hand cranking, using a piece of vacuum tubing as a dipstick to check the levels. Each time I refill I also drain the oil sump to keep the solvent away from the seals. When last soak is done I put a small amount of Seafoam into each cylinder, remove the fuel pump fuse, and crank with starter to lubricate & clear cylinders. Then replace fuse and spark plugs, add old oil & do an engine flush, then new oil & filter. Running the solvent in the engine oil is probably risky & an engine flush is likely more gentle & can be done at every oil change for a while to gradually clean the rest of the engine.

[@AdamOmylanowski-db9xn]

I tried this on my 2014 Audi S3 8V recently and so far so good! Have not went through any oil at all in the 250 miles I drove the car where I would have gone through about 3/4 of the dipstick in that time (it was getting worse and worse over the past few months the more I drove the car) So pretty safe to say this worked on my car too! I done the standard 24H 2 bottle B12 Chemtool piston soak method, drive the car and dump oil and carry out normal oil change. One thing I noticed was there was a sulfur smell which smelled like unburnt fuel was getting to the cat which made me think the cat might have been damaged. Thankfully that smell went away and the car drives normal. I noticed before my car would leave a lot of dark smoke when launching hard off a stop light for example but that is also gone following the soak! Thank you very much for sharing your knowledge on this issue this really is abolutely amazing! I think moving forward if I was to do this again even on a 4 cylinder engine it would be a good idea to do piston 1 and 4 and 2 and 3 separately and do them both at TDC. Uses less B12 and you get the added benefit of it cleaning the valves and injectors. I was also really lucky that I was able to purchase some B12 in Northern Ireland where I live since I know it is not available everywhere

[@ETMotorsports]

Great - glad this worked! I like your idea of doing the pistons at TDC as well...It makes all the sense in the world to take advantage of the soak and hit the valves and injector while you're at it

[@hgas9631]

Very interesting point talking about the carbon on the pistons and interference not allowing the engine to rotate fully by hand. I’ve done the b12 soak close to a dozen times on both the 2.0T and 3.0T CREC. Has worked great. However on the first 2.0T vehicle I did this soak on everything went smoothly. Rotating the engine by hand during the soak. Drove great for 500 miles with no consumption. After sitting for a couple weeks I go to start it and it immediately is running rough flashing CEL and dies after 30 seconds of running. At that point I can only assume the engine has seized up. Long story short after poking around and not wanting to do more damage I start pulling things apart. Cant find any issues. Pull the head off only to find carbon buildup on top of the piston which was my interference hitting the bottom of the head, and the reason the engine stopped running. The fact that the car ran perfectly for 500 miles makes me wonder if this was just a coincidence and maybe the carbon actually broke off from the backside of intake valve and got sucked in because I would think any carbon that accumulated during the soak surely would have burnt off immediately upon startup and I never had any resistance rotating by hand when doing the soak.

[@ETMotorsports]

yeah that's a bit suspect...you wouldn't have carbon from the treatment after 500miles...so you had actual physical damage because the piston hit the valves? that sucks :(

[@hgas9631]

@@ETMotorsports there was no physical damage. Once the head was off you could see carbon on top of the piston which had been compressed and preventing the engine from fully rotating just like what you experienced by hand. I would have never expected such a small amount of buildup to be able to stop the engine in its tracks like that. We’re talking less than an eight inch of carbon on just a small portion of the piston top. In hindsight I could have just pulled the spark plug, maybe put in a little solvent to soften it up, then blow it out with air

[@JC-io8pv]

So this cleans the intake valves ?

[@SrZomBros]

Hola de nuevo amigo! Otro Audi a5 1.8 TFSI arreglado gracias a este proceso!! Este consumía 1l en torno a los 800km - 1000km. Actualmente lleva 750km recorridos sin consumo aparente. Quiero aclarar unos detalles por si son útiles para los demás. No pude usar B12, y en su lugar usé ATF+4 mezclado con acetona pura en partes iguales. El resultado fue increible, disolvió el carbón muy fácilmente. En este caso, el arranque fue MUY DIFICIL, pero finalmente todo resulto ser un exito.

[@ETMotorsports]

Hey - great results! ATF+4 mixed with equal parts pure acetone - interesting combination...worth a try!

[@SrZomBros]

@@ETMotorsports Si, quizá en un motor con muchisimo carbón sea mejor usar el B12, pero en este caso funcionó a la perfección el ATF+4 con acetona.

[@tedjohnson64]

@SrZombros I'm curious, do you know why the starting was so difficult? The spark plugs were out during the soaking, so it's not like they were coated with B-12. The hard starting (which we've seen in a few of the prior @ETMotorsports vids on this topic) is the part that has me the most concerned. Thanks in advance.

[@SrZomBros]

@@tedjohnson64 Cuesta arrancar debido a que el motor pierde toda la compresión al no haber ninguna película de aceite en las camisas de los pistones. También, la presencia del solvente en la cámara de combustión hace que el motor se vuelva loco. En cuanto el solvente empiece a quemarse y llegue el aceite a los segmentos para recuperar la compresión, tu motor funcionará con normalidad. PD: añadiendo una cucharada de aceite antes de arrancar el motor, previene daños en el primer arranque y hace que sea más fácil.

[@Pwnulolumad]

@@SrZomBrosgracias por su consejo de hecharle cucharita de aceite antes qué actualizar

[@Jordan-cf6bo]

Is it safe to say that this problem arises from the fact that the manufacturer recommends 10,000 mile oil changes with crappy castrol oil? Then that, coupled with a very loose piston ring design, causes this buildup? I did the piston ring soak about a month ago and I’m at 2500 miles with no certain signs of burning. Thus, safe to say that at this point, adjusting to an oil change every 5000 miles with higher quality oil, should avoid the buildup. What are your thoughts?

[@bobd9868]

Yes! I have a 3.0 in my A8 and change the oil every 5k and it does not burn a drop (literally) between changes. Mileage is 50k and the FIRST oil change was done early at 3,000 miles.

[@sonicnofadz]

CREC 3.0t is very different than the previous generation 3.0t with low tension rings that coke up very easily. B12 definitely a difference maker.

[@kamalaquino6300]

Rotella T6 one of the best oil. The 5w40 for diesel engine is excellent. You can use it for that engine, no problem.

[@ETMotorsports]

yeah I like running the T6 as well

[@Matevmmm]

@@kamalaquino6300 why used diesel engine oil after piston soak,what is the benefit for this ?

[@CelicAWD]

Rotella is all i use in all of cars. Truly the best oil i have ever used.

[@2050dm]

@etmotorsports I just did the soak on my 2014 Q7 with 3.0. I then ran the motor for 20 minutes with one can of b12 prior to draining and refilling with t6 rotella 5w40. My question is I know this oil is for diesel and not the regular 3.0 but I get the idea that you and others feel it’s fine to use this for this engine. I have this oil in now and was going change out with amsoil after maybe 500 miles but I’m also considering just keep the Rotella for a a full 4000 miles or so. Appreciate your thoughts.

[@2050dm]

@@ETMotorsports I did the soak 500 miles ago and have been running rotella 5w40 during this time. I’m thinking about now switching to amsoil 5w40 but also considering staying with rotella a bit longer. It sounds like you feel staying with Rotella would likely not be an issue. Is this correct?

[@martinespinosa]

Valvoline Restore and Protect might be the answer for these engines.

[@vanlandbc]

Thanks for the video. My wife has a 2017 Hyundia Tuscon with the 2.0 na engine, that has this same oil burning issue. Car had just about 100,000 km and used about 1.2 - 1.3 liters/1500 km. Dealer was absolutely no help. Did the piston soak and made a big difference, didn't fix it completely but much better now. After about 4500 km used about .5 liter of oil. After second oil change after piston soak we went on a trip and put on about 1500 km and it still showing full, was mostly hwy driving so maybe that is why not sure.

[@ETMotorsports]

@@vanlandbc awesome! Glad to see it's working on other brands too

[@adameusaries]

To be honest this means you can also do this by adding it directly to the motor oil. Dont drive the car around but you can add it in the oil direclty allow it to gain heat and circulate through the motor. The additive will get past the piston rings and allow it to clean piston rings. Remember these additives are lighter then oil so they automatically flow better. Just remember to use a low weight oil like 0w 40

[@jdm1152]

20218My 2018 Q7 3.0T 70K miles requires at least two quarts of oil between it 10K oil changes. Question: The engine’s stop-start feature turns the engine off before the car has fully stopped. Could this add to issues?

[@vSynZero]

I just finished driving ~500km after doing this - oil consumption went down from 1 quart every 600kms to not even moving after ~500km!

[@ETMotorsports]

@@vSynZero 3.0t?

[@vSynZero]

@@ETMotorsports Yes - the 3.0t crec. The engine has more power now - compression was tested at 150psi before so it might have gone up after

[@lermos]

Спасибо огромное за ваше видео! Уже 2 недели испытываю проблему с Audi Q7 4m 2017 из США. Пробег 140 000 км, цилиндры чистые. После очередной замены масла, расход масла составил 1 литр на 400 км. Обязательно воспользуюсь вашей рекомендацией и сделаю раскоксовку двигателя. Очень надеюсь, что поможет. Привет вам из России!!!

[@ETMotorsports]

@@lermos good luck!!

[@lermos]

​@@ETMotorsportsafter doing this procedure I ran around 1260km and engine asked me to add 1 liter. After a while I ran 4250km throughout the city and highways on Russian roads and oil level was empty on a half. I ride around 140-180kmh during on highways. 1200km left before the next oil change. So i think I won this crazy oil consumption. I will watch the situation after the nearest oil change. Thank you very much. I used Gzox foam solution for valves and pistons on hot engine during 4 hours of procedure. Spent 4 bottles of it.

[@mohammedmerzougui1671]

Hello I just did b12 at 2008 Camry after that I did new engine oil valvolin restore and protect I'm waiting result

[@ETMotorsports]

Good luck!

[@Gonefishing185]

How did it go ?

[@ChristianLeeTri]

I have another 2017 Q7 that burns 1L every 750km or so if you want more practice (in Ottawa). I was actually going to ask if you wanted to try it, but figured you were done after the 2.0T. Fantastic video, BTW

[@ETMotorsports]

Haha half of Ottawa's Audis are just eating oil I guess :) I'm pretty busy for the next few months, but can always help if you decide to tackle it on your own.

[@ChristianLeeTri]

I may take you up on that! I was curious what your thoughts are about rolling one side onto ramps and doing one bank at a time, to alleviate the issue caused by the 90 deg V6?

[@ETMotorsports]

yeah I thought about that as well but unless you put the car at 45deg you can't make up for the tilt in the piston...honestly much easier to just take the extra time and do it... I thought a bit about your car and there are a few things that I want to try with the 3.0T so maybe we can make something work towards the end of the summer if you haven't fixed it yourself...can you ping me on whatsapp or facebook so I don't lose your contact?

[@eagleeye8916]

So I have a 18 Audi A7 , it's tuned stage 1 , has a cai and a merc hx . I do engine flushes and use molygen 5w-40 and change oil every 3k miles. I'm usually on it when I have the chance . I usually get a low oil indicator bout every 1,300 miles

[@ETMotorsports]

@@eagleeye8916 that's still reasonable but you're definitely on your way to higher consumption

[@DXBvik]

Hey, just wanted to share my feedback, i did the whole proces on my 2012 vw golf GTI mk6, with 240k kilometers, its bone stock, and since i bought it it was burning 1l of oil every 300-350km and if im pushing the car, sometimes will drink the 1l of oil arround 150km, so i was spending pore money on oil then petrol, was using Motul, so i did the whole piston soak for a total of 28h, had problems atarting it, but eventually it did start, now the strange thing once i started the car there was no smoke, literally not even a puff of smoke, which made me supper surprised, i am wandering why that is, and has anyone else experience that also ? The car was missfireing, after 25min of driving it somewhat cleared up, so i did an oil change with Liqui molly, installed new sparkplugs and will see now if it will have any improvment, il update my comment weekly to keep everyone updated.

[@ShaanNotShawn]

I finished up my Q7 today and was surprised there was no puff of smoke. Did you see improvement?

[@roderickroderick7216]

B-12 is 70% Xylene. Which can be bought at any hardware store. I checked the MSDS sheet.

[@2buds1shroom]

If I'm currently NOT having oil consumption issues, I've done 5k changes, I'm due for injectors and carbon clean (88k) miles... should I go ahead and do this you think? BTW this solution is a solid win for the 3.0t community, so thank you.

[@ETMotorsports]

@2buds1shroom if you're not burning oil there's no reason to do this... take good care of the motor, maybe do a flush every second or third oil change and you should be good for many miles

[@lukas545]

After removing the spark plugs, I noticed that the spark plugs on the left side of the engine (standing in front of the car) had more carbon on them than the ones on the right side of the engine. What could be causing this?

[@ETMotorsports]

hmmm nothing specific...could be that those cylinders burn more oil, the injectors could be running worse...1000 different things...

[@StopTeoriomSpiskowym]

Consumption but not burning oil? a magic o vw engine oil disappeared but no blue smoke?

[@valentindobchev6005]

Жив и здрав да си братле!

[@olivierc.8420]

Hey have you seen that valvaline came out with a restore and protec engine oil. They claim it breaks down the carbon on the rings after four oil changes.

[@ETMotorsports]

hmmm worth a try I guess - but that's anywhere between 20 and 40k+ kms if you're doing 5k+ oil changes...not sure anybody wants to wait that long to find out if it's effective

[@olivierc.8420]

@@ETMotorsports I agree. Would be good for the low millage cars for preventive maintenance.

[@natemcfadyen3689]

After the soaking of all the pistons are complete and you use the starter with the sparks plugs out for a few seconds: is there anything special that i need to do? Do the walls of the cylinder need any type of lubrication before I hit the start button or because its only for a few seconds on the final blowout it should be good as is with nothing added to cyllinder walls. I will be hand cranking for 10 to 15 min before i use the starter. Thanks!

[@ETMotorsports]

@@natemcfadyen3689 hey no worries about lubrication - the oil pump works when you crank the engine so you should be ok

[@lemondederic]

I ended up here after a FB post with oil cunsumption issue. Last year, I didn’t get any result when a friend of mine put B12 as you suggested in my 2011 Q5 with 150K. I now wonder if he did it properly seeing this newer video. I have 2 questions: Will I see any changes if I just pour B12 at each whatever gas filling And Have you ever of KLEEN FLO (some) chamber A tech nearby Montreal told me he has huge success but the product is now BO Thanks for all your time

[@ETMotorsports]

there's no guarantee that the soak will work from the first try...I'd say the majority of people see some results but if you've seen nothing, it doesn't hurt to repeat the process...can't speak for other products but as far as I have seen nothing works by being added to the fuel or oil at regular work...

[@adameusaries]

Even if you use an eve higher octane fuel can help this aswell. Theirs more alcohol and ethenal in higher rated fuel. These can also disolve carbon naturally. Since it wont all ignite when it enters the combustion chamber

[@ETMotorsports]

@@adameusaries unfortunately nothing else seems to work... you can't fix it with oil or fuel additives - the rings get completely caked up

[@adameusaries]

@@ETMotorsports yknow what I appreciate the response. I'm going to make a KZbin video explaining what I mean. But what you figured out. Is gold

[@kamalaquino6300]

Advice to replace the pcv under the supercharged unit. And check if there is any tsb for a ecm calibration after the replacement

[@ETMotorsports]

the pcv was already replaced on this motor so I didn't need to go that deep

[@Pwnulolumad]

would it have been 'safer' to drain the oil and replace with recommended instead of running it with the barrymans mixed in the oil ?

[@ETMotorsports]

@Pwnulolumad yup... for sure it's safer to not run B12 inside

[@Pwnulolumad]

@@ETMotorsportsmy idea is to throw some barryman piston soak in the holes while I’m working on cleaning carbon out of intake valves (physical picks not media blaster). Since you have to turn the crank to close the valves before carbone cleaning I figure it’s a good way to do two things at once. Is there any obvious problem with this idea. ?

[@gimigimi1299]

Magically will create new piston or valve rings😮

[@isaretsiz8702]

Hey! Thanks for the video, it is EXTREMELY helpful! I want to try the soak because of my oil burn (1 qt for 1200 miles) but my 2017 Q7 is throwing a lot of white smoke through its exhaust all the time. So, I’m afraid a soak won’t help me. Wanted to ask you if the soak can still help or is there a different issue? Thanks a lot again for the vid!

[@ETMotorsports]

@isaretsiz8702 hmm white smoke is coolant... do you know where it's coming from? Head gasket? You can do the soak regardless but it sounds like you've got bigger fish to fry

[@isaretsiz8702]

@@ETMotorsports my indy mechanic told me it wouldnt be the gasket but i’m not sure. We checked the coolant and it’s still at max. Also he told me he never needed to work on a head gasket with these Audis, so it should be very unlikely. Do you think it might be a faulty O2 sensor or a brake fluid leak into the brake booster?

[@4evervacation]

Hello Thanks for the content, im in Toronto, i been trying to source the b12 product with no luck, ordered it on amazon but they never ship. any guidance would be apprecaitecd, does seafoam works similiar? Thanks

[@ETMotorsports]

@@4evervacation seafoam is much weaker...

[@ETMotorsports]

@@4evervacation try radwell.ca - we've had good luck with them

[@4evervacation]

@@ETMotorsports thanks so much!

[@danricci6996]

Nooooooooo, I've been soooo looking forward for the spark plug drop so I can read the comments afterward , don't rob me of that, drop the plugs, drop the plugs, what did I do to you to deserve this ? 🤣🤣🤣. I really hope you'll get tens of thousands of views bc honestly you should. 👍👍

[@ETMotorsports]

hahahah...don't you worry - the plugs dropping is a staple Eurotrash procedure and this engine was not spared :) I am thinking of doing a 1000 drop test to see how much my gap changes Myth Busters style...

[@natecram6230]

I wonder how a concentrated PEA intake valve cleaner like Amsoil Power Foam or CRC would do. It breaks carbon down so quickly that you might not have to soak it for long. I am currently helping a friend with her 3.0 Q7. I just put Amsoil in there after using the Amsoil flush and the burning got worse. My guess is that it cleaned out the oil squirter passages and lower rings, but the top compression ring is still stuck. I just put 4 ounces of Yamalube Ring Free in there to see if that helps.

[@ETMotorsports]

@natecram6230 a few folks have mentioned yamalube - keep us posted with your results

[@natecram6230]

@@ETMotorsports Hey. The results are in on that 2017 3.0 supercharged Q7. The oil level is at the same point as it was two weeks ago. It appears to have stopped completely! Four ounces of the Yamalube mixed with Chevron Techron to thin it out enough to get down into the tank (it's thick like 10W30 engine oil). I put four more ounces in there last week at the fuel tank refill just for good measure, but I don't know that it was necessary. Again, it's running the Amsoil European formula oil which I had not drained out since I put it in a couple months ago. Do you think I should pump out a sample to see how black it is, since the chemical probably loosened a lot of gunk in there? If it's really bad, I wonder if I should do another oil change. Probably wouldn't hurt.

[@osamayousefmaddani9186]

what happened to the oil consumption now after 4 months ? does it still consume a little bit or completely eliminated? I want to this to my ccea engine.

[@ETMotorsports]

@osamayousefmaddani9186 according to the owner it's completely gone... or at least reduced enough that it's not noticeable between oil changes

[@SpyrosS-o3j]

Hello,your video is perfect.For us that we are from Europe and we cant find B12, do you have any idea?

[@ETMotorsports]

you can try LiquiMoly Pro Line - they have an engine flush and injector cleaner that should have similar results

[@philipmorris1705]

Hello everyone, can anyone explain me how it works( b-12 or seafoam)? my point is that when your engine takes oil (burns) it means that there is a problem with seals, orings or something that is the reason your oil leaks somewhere where should not go, and it is burned. What i see on the description - b-12 or seafoam is kind a cleaner, so it cleans buildups etc , but if we want to seal ower engines we need something that makes our engine seals o-rings or whatever - more spongy and rubbery, but cleaner will not do that. So once we clean our engine with b12 - how is it possible it will be more sealed ??? Thank U

[@ETMotorsports]

b12 dissolves the carbon build-up and allows the rings to reseat themselves...

[@TheJimmyThreeSticks]

I'm in the middle of doing my wife's car right now. I'm on my last two cylinders. One soak in and it won't turn past top dead center. Even after blowing tons of chunks out. Thinking the second soak will help. One thing I wish I would have done is made sure to only blow cylinders out while the valves were closed. It's possible I could blow something into the intake.

[@ETMotorsports]

@TheJimmyThreeSticks I wouldn't worry about the intake too much...as you saw most of this is in dust form... even if it goes through it'll just burn out...

[@TheJimmyThreeSticks]

@@ETMotorsports I was concerned about the chunks and things like valve openings. I seemed to have good results though.

[@brendanj810]

another great video! question if you know. i know on the MQB platform short commutes cause faster intake carbon buildup than people with longer commutes. could the owner have a short commute constantly that might allow for more buildup? just a possible thought. so glad i found the channel keep up the great work and cant wait to see some vintage audi content

[@ETMotorsports]

thanks! Yeah I thought about that too but honestly the owner raked up 1200km in like 1 week so his commute is fairly decent...I spoke with him quite a bit trying to figure out what might cause all this mess but he is using the right oil and the right fuel so unless it was the previous owner that neglected the motor, I don't think it's a user issue...I`m going to try and get my hands on another 3.0T to poke around and see if I can spot the same problems...

[@ShaanNotShawn]

Planning to try this myself soon. When hitting the cylinder with an air compressor should the piston be TDC? Or can I use the air compressor anywhere in the cylinder cycle?

[@ETMotorsports]

@ShaanNotShawn anywhere... all your trying to do is blow out any garbage from the cylinders

[@ShaanNotShawn]

@@ETMotorsports thank you my Q7 is burning 1QT every 300 miles :-0 will let you know how it goes

[@ShaanNotShawn]

Car is feeling great after the piston soak. All 6 cyls had carbon to the point where I couldnt see the piston head tops, now I can see metal on all. The spark plugs were also fouled, so fresh spark plugs, new air filter, and new oil. Starting the mile counter now Let's see if it works. Thank you for these vids.

[@ShaanNotShawn]

@@ETMotorsports 400 miles and reading full! It was previously actually burning at about 1QT per 200ish miles. Starting a new comment thread for updates.

[@MLopez-mr2qx]

What is the special socket you are using to turn the engine at the crankshaft pulley? I have a 2017 Audi Q7 3.0.

[@chanellespears3986]

I would like to know also

[@chrisfranges3232]

Also interested

[@ball2g2]

Still waiting on this reply

[@natemcfadyen3689]

As far as turning the crank-- I have a 2017 q7 3.0 and have been searching all over the internet for what to use to turn the crank, it seems to be HARD to find info. Is just a regular 22mm deep socket needed or a special crank turning socket tool needed for the 2017 q7 3.0? Haven't had a chance to get under the hood to check it out yet.

[@ETMotorsports]

@@natemcfadyen3689 look up CTA tools 1412

[@aketza6627]

Amazing video, i am going to try with a botle of seafoam and 2 of MANNOL 9770 Carburetor Cleaner 600ml, is the only thinks with similar compositions that i cant find in spain. I will and the update to help other people that cant find B12. Do you think that 3 bottles are excesive? or i would only use 2 and part of the last? thanks I have a A4 2.0 tfsi 2010 engine

[@ETMotorsports]

@aketza6627 I did a 2.0t in my q5 - you can see the other episode...I think I used about 100ml per cylinder and topped up as required... everybody's engine seems to react differently so you may be ok wth the amounts you have... keep us posted on your success with Seafoam and mannol

[@MichaelPan-p2r]

What size of bit or socket did you use to turn the crank shaft? Thanks.

[@ETMotorsports]

@@MichaelPan-p2r the v6 uses a special tool - I think 1412

[@AtypicalDriver]

"This oil is very low mileage" well yeah if the owner is adding a liter every 200-400 km! 🤣 Great video though, I need to do this on my wife's Q5 3.0T.

[@tiesto181178]

Hi, searching for Berrymen B12 and do see 0116 and 117. Which one schould I buy? Thanks in advance.

[@ETMotorsports]

116 is liquid, 117 is aerosol... you need 116... looks like 121 is the same thing but bigger quantity

[@eddatusa]

Thank you, I have tried on my Q7 2017. It works!

[@ETMotorsports]

@@eddatusa nice! What were the numbers?

[@AveryQuiles]

@@ETMotorsports I would like to get this done but no one in new jersey seems to give me comfort in having them do it i will drive my car to canada if you would be willing to do this for me do you have a email or contact info

[@eddatusa]

@@ETMotorsports I have followed your procedure. I did 2 pistons every 24 hrs. Every 12 hrs rotating and added B12 50 ml. My Audi was consuming 1/4 oil about 500 miles. I have ran 1000 miles. It hasn’t dropped at all. Thanks again. Before it I did change PCV valve. It never resolved the issue.

[@brettl6747]

just getting ready to do this on my 2017 Q7 as well. just wondering if you could share what socket you use to turn over the motor on the 3.0T.... i wasnt sure which one i need. maybe a link to the exact socket?

[@ETMotorsports]

it's not a socket on the v6 engines...there's a tool for it...look up CTA 1412

[@nedudki]

Thank you, i learned a lot!

[@ball2g2]

Is it bad if it drains out of a cylinder almost instantly?

[@ETMotorsports]

@ball2g2 I mean it's not good but it doesn't mean the treatment won't have an effect

[@ball2g2]

@ETMotorsports thank you. I was incorrect in thinking the liquid drained out. It was because of where the pistons position was that made it look like the fluid drained out.

2017 Audi Q7, I did an initial soak and the crank kept getting stuck at a certain point. I ordered the Crankshaft turner (tool number JTC4573) however it is 2 more weeks away, hence I am using this time to soak the pistons as best as possible. I have jacked up the passenger side 1 + foot and filled the pistons as much as possible. Piston 3 is almost TDC and I noticed it is not holding the B12 for 6 hours. What is your best advice? Just keep topping it up every couple hours? If you have a 2017 Q7 I would suggest you order the crank shaft turner before you start. I have to wait 2 weeks for the tool to be shipped, no company has it in my city, not even the Audi dealership, that one is a head scratcher.

[@ETMotorsports]

That's unfortunate - Amazon had it overnight... no need to lift the vehicle - 1ft on either side won't do much to level your pistons... just put them at TDC or use al more solvent... the pistons will not leak down the same... keep an eye on it - on most cars I've done, the rate or leak down changed for each piston

@@ETMotorsports Thank you! I bought lots of B-12 hoping to chew through the carbon. I will wait for the tool to arrive.

[@Sle3p520]

Hi there, first off that was an amazing video demonstration! Very impressed with how clearly you explained everything! I have a problem. I definitely have a lot of carbon build up. My car isn’t necessarily burning thru a bunch of oil, but I have blue smoke coming out of the tail pipe on hard acceleration (4,000+ rpms). I also have hard shifting 1st-2nd and sometimes 3rd gear. Is it possible I have stuck piston rings from carbon build up and need to do this B12 piston soak? Thanks in advance for any advice you have, I’ve been dealing with this issue for a while and it’s frustrating!

[@ETMotorsports]

@Sle3p520 hey thanks for the kind words! Blue smoke is definitely oil related but if you're not losing a lot of oil it could be coming from the PCV too... doing a soak won't really hurt anything so definitely worth a try and I would do the PCV service at the same time... for the shifts that's a different question - any codes from the transmission? Have you done an oil service? What car is it?

[@Sle3p520]

@@ETMotorsports 14 Q5 3.0t (basically this Q7). It has 233,000 km on it and oil has been changed every 8,000 km with Castro Edge 5w40. I just recently did this year -ZF8 transmission/filter change -PCV -SC intercooler bricks I have a soft code for PCV, but a few days ago I did the SC bricks and the valley under the SC was completely dry. No signs of coolant or oil loss. No other codes that could cause this issue. And just recently I learned about the blue smoke whenever I hard accelerate. It does not blow blue smoke when driving normal/idling.

My crank shaft tool finally arrived, I am attempting to turn the crank but I can NOT move it past a certain point. I am using a 24" torque wrench so I have lots of leverage, wondering if anyone has any suggestions? I have completed multiple soaks while I was waiting for tool. I blow out all loose carbon. Should I go back and forth and continue to blow out piston as much as possible?

[@ETMotorsports]

Hey unfortunately that's about all you can do... take your time, work the crank back and forth, keep blowing garbage out. A scope would really help here so you can see what's causing the issues. I'm guessing you've got two pistons at TDC getting stuck so you can narrow it down to either of the two, but a good scope with a side view camera can really help here. You can pick very good units on Amazon to help

@@ETMotorsports Thank you for the great advice!!! It took some work and an extra day of soaking piston 4 and I I made sure it was fully blown out with compressed air. I believe the first time I blew out piston 4 there was a lot of carbon remaining and it was the cause of all my issues. Vehicle is back together and I will run The Diesel engine oil for 2000 KM before switching back to the Audi spec'd oil. Thank you again for the great channel.

[@Leakybags5]

Are you guys seeing blue oil smoke out of the exhaust and then performing this? I don’t get crazy oil consumption. But if I let my car idle a while I get blue oil smoke and a lot of black soot all the time on pulls?

[@ETMotorsports]

@Leakybags5 you may of may not get smoke but if you don't have serious consumption then it's likely something else like pcv... the rings cause serious oil loss

[@MrArtisticGuy]

Thanks for the content. Any change that the B-12 will harm or degrade the head-gasket material? When the engine wouldn't turn, That large gunk chunk of carbon. Do you think that probably came off the manifold side of a valve stem and made the valve stick open? I ask because I just bought a 100,000 mile Q7 3.0 TFSI today and I suspect that I will be duplicating your process soon.

[@JC-io8pv]

I just read something like that other comment I think carbon clean is better . Because you have the process of vacuum. While in chemical if you have a big chunk of carbon in one side it might take longer to break . My guess not sure .

[@avprokofyev]

Question about procedure. Do you know if it is possible to reduce the overall time for the process to 24 hours by putting b-12 into all cylinders at the same time? With rough estimate being: 2 cylinders at top dead center - 50ml, 2 cylinders at bottom dead center - 550ml, and ones in the middle - 300ml. For a total of 1.8l of solution going in.

[@ETMotorsports]

@avprokofyev hmm your best bet is to soak at TDC... if you absolutely must reduce the time just do 8hrs per pair at TDC... should be enough to get the results... worst case you just repeat the treatment next oil change if not 100% effective

[@ncnmra5882]

With regards to having the pistons at TDC, will the same pair be on the same cycle (ie: compression or exhaust)? Should you be concerned about the valves being open on the exhaust stroke and the Berryman's fluid leaking out the exhaust valve?

[@josephhills4718]

Thoughts on tossing in a can of b12 in the gas tank as preventative maintenance once a year for the 3.0t? As of now, just burning the usual 1Q of oil every year (~5,000 miles)

[@ETMotorsports]

@josephhills4718 that won't hurt but it'll only help your fuel system - it won't do anything to help the piston rings

[@kevincamacho626]

Thabks for the info. Im burning a quart every 1000km or so. Where did you get the b12 in canada? Im in Toronto

[@nelsinivr6]

Two questions I’m going to give this a go in a couple weeks while I don’t need the car daily… 1. If I run into the carbon issue where you can no longer crank the car by hand, and the valves are open but you can not crank the car… what to do? Just blow it out? 2. Of course you’d want the oil to be warm but is it better to just immediately drain the oil without even starting after doing this? Appreciate any help!

[@ETMotorsports]

@nelsinivr6 on the first one - yes pretty much all you can do is blow them out and keep working it... for the oil it's your choice - I run my engine wth the B12 but some people are worried and drain it without running

[@nelsinivr6]

@@ETMotorsportsthanks for the reply! Cool maybe I’ll run it just a bit at idle to warm the oil otherwise draining might be a pain haha. I was mostly just concerned w blowing carbon past open valves but what came out of yours didn’t appear it would necessarily hurt anything… hopefully.

[@luisbravo-pc8be]

Hi There! Working on my last two pistons but as i was getting them ready I noticed the engine got locked and can't turn it to the full TDC position. I went back and clean again but don't see anymore debris. I still got the B-12 in last set and made sure it was full and left over night. is it possible I messed up something by turning engine counterclockwise couple times? Do I just need to let it soak some more and try again? Freaking out here. Anyone ran into that?

[@ETMotorsports]

@luisbravo-pc8be no you didn't mess anything up - you've still got debris on the pistons... pretty much everybody that's now done this to the 3.0T (and a few 2.0Ts actually) is confirming the debris build up on the pistons causing the crank to stop... there's no way to avoid that unfortunately because of the angle of the pistons... don't panic, take your time, keep blowing out the garbage, soak it again, blow it out and on and on until it is clean enough to let you push through... the pistons that are closest to the top are causing your issues so you can focus on them. If you don't have a scope I highly recommend getting one with a side view camera - I would have freaked out about the crank being blocked if I hadn't seen the debris on the piston- the scope really helps

[@luisbravo-pc8be]

@@ETMotorsports Oh that's good to hear. I did get me a scope but does not have side view unfortunately. I will continue working on the soaking. Should it help to cranking while there is B-12 on them?

[@luisbravo-pc8be]

Oh right! I was able to crank it but it gets stuck again when 2 and 4 are in TDC position so I put more B-12 and let soak another 12 hrs then clean

[@natemcfadyen3689]

I am doing mine right now as well and ran into same problem. Soaked the 1st two pistons. Hand turned the crank and they got stuck. Just did a lot of compressed air clean out and they started moving. Fast forward to the next set of 2. First 12 hour soak and blew them out with air. Turned the crank and it was stuck. Took me 1 1/2 days of additional soaking and compressed air but it finally started moving freely. I was freaking out a bit as well, didn't think I would get them moving again I had a cheap old 3 gal pancake air compressor that I started with. I went and got a cheap $100 rigid 6 gal compressor at HD. Has a higher psi, 125 I think compared to the 90psi I was using. Made a bigger difference for me when blowing out the spark plug hole with that extra psi. I put a clear hose on my air nozzle which I think was shown on the video which gets down to the piston nicely. I guess the name of the game with this process is patience in some cases.

[@stephenbraddy9925]

Excellent video, thanks for making it! You got my imagination going. A few ideas (maybe not good): 1) I realize TDC is good for piston coverage on this 90-degree engine, but I wonder if it is actually letting some of the treatment flow out of the exhaust valves? I wonder if this is why there was so much smoke. Maybe there is an ideal cylinder location/stroke? Perhaps just before BDC on the power stroke? All valves closed and hopefully the "tallest" edge of the piston is below all valves? Perhaps we could calculate the precise amount of fluid to use in this situation. Just trying to think of ways to further formalize your process for this engine. I am not an expert, so maybe my ideas are dumb. You got good results already! 2) I wonder if you have inadvertently discovered a good DIY process for cleaning the (always dirty) intake valves? I wonder if some variation of your process could be used to target the intake valves. Perhaps intentionally orient the cylinder somewhere after TDC on the intake stroke? Or maybe people are already doing this and I'm just oblivious.

[@ETMotorsports]

hey - both great ideas...the smoke on startup is normal - I saw it on all 3 of my other cars...the B12 gets everywhere so until it burns out it smokes like crazy... There's definitely a more scientific way of doing this but it would require an engine on the stand here to play with and experiment and the 3.0T isn't very common so I haven't been able to find one. Yeah carbon buildup on the valves is a big issue - I like your idea about doing this on the intake stroke - pretty much need to find the earliest both intake valves are open with the piston at highest position and then add the liquid. That way it will coat the piston and valves at the same time...going down to BDC though wouldn't work because you'd have to fill the entire cylinder with solution - you want the least amount of volume possible with the valves open...This can be applied to the 2.0T as well - same issues with valve carbonization...

[@stephenbraddy9925]

@@ETMotorsports I was thinking about BDC specifically for piston ring treatment only, to keep the valves completely out of the picture ... ensure we don't lose any B12 through the valves. But maybe this isn't an issue. Do you suspect that you lost B12 through the exhaust valves when you switched over to using TDC only? Thanks again for making this video!

[@pearl04tl]

I think b12 going out the exhaust valve might be a good thing. I've seen some recent cases of people who neglect the oil consumption issues on the CREC motors and they end up with a burned valve. The b12 may cleanup the valve seat and promote a better valve seal.

[@stephenbraddy9925]

@@pearl04tl The issue I'm worried about is those cases where the treatment drained out of the cylinder. If it drains out then we aren't treating the rings as good as we could for 24 hours. When that happened in the video my mind went to the valves, which is why I started thinking about how to remove the valves from the picture entirely (when targeting the rings). Just a thought.

[@ETMotorsports]

you want the liquid to drain out through the rings - if it's not draining out, you're not treating them...as it's draining down, the liquid is penetrating through the rings and going everywhere (hopefully) to soften up the carbon and free them up...

[@vSynZero]

Hi - so I'm going through this right now, I soaked one set of pistons and blew off a bunch of the gunk but I'm still unable to crank it by hand. I tried turning it counter clockwise a bit and it did rotate, so I tried blowing again but with little effect. Any suggestions? Do you think I should hit the starter?

[@ETMotorsports]

@vSynZero no absolutely no... don't hit the starter... while it may be ok and it just plows through the garbage, there's a chance that it does irreparable damage... if you can turn it back then you're hitting the same garbage I was... can you confirm that's when the soaked pistons are at TDC? Can you see inside the cylinders?

[@vSynZero]

@@ETMotorsports Yeah - the soaked pistons were at TDC, i looked inside with a scope but I don't have a side view - it looks like ive blown out most of the gunk (i was at it for a while and it actually looks really clean to the point where i can see the letters on the pistons!). I took it counterclockwise and there was some resistance at BDC - blew it out some more, but still gets stuck at the same spot at TDC going counterclockwise. Any thoughts - maybe I should let the b12 evaporate and try using the air blaster again tomorrow?

[@ETMotorsports]

@vSynZero hmm first of all try not to spin the engine backward too much because you're going against the chain tensioners and there's risk of timing issues... that said if you're careful, you should be ok... now for getting stuck - while the footage in the video is horrible, and I apologize for that but you can see what's happening... all of the gunk that gets dissolved piles up at the low side of the piston - if you can picture the piston at 45 deg, all the liquid and gunk eventually goes through the lower side... so that builds up and stops the piston from pushing through... I've been thinking about this issue as well... if you've already blown up a bunch of garbage, I think the next thing you can try is to pour more B12 in those two cylinders... you don't need to cover the pistons since you're not trying to soak the rings, but I think the liquid will help soften up any buildup that's left at the lower side and perhaps help you push through... So why don't you try this - pour say 30-40ml in each of the two pistons, give it a few minutes to soften up but not drain through and start working the crank manually going back and forth at that spot... if you feel it starting to give, you can probably apply a bit more torque to the crank and get through the pile... This is very annoying but it makes sense that it happens - all the dissolved crap has to go somewhere... I'd be curious to record a time lapse of an actual soak to see how this forms up

[@vSynZero]

@@ETMotorsports Thanks for the advice! I'll give that a try and maybe try to blow a little more out and see, it's actually cranking a little bit smoother now vs before, but well noted on not cranking it backwards too much

[@vSynZero]

@@ETMotorsports Hi - so i went to work at it again today - i tried blowing at it for a little while longer after more of the b12 had evaporated, maybe a very small amount came out. i suspect that it's a little more flakey when it's dried up vs when it's still wet. then i tried wiggling it back and forth a bit where it was previously stuck. then backed it out a bit and added a bit of solution (a little less than you suggested as the pistons looked very clean) as leaving it where it was stuck might have caused the bit of carbon that was causing the blockage to be jammed in there, worked at it with no success. I blew at it again, backing it out progressively, then tried again and there was resistence but it went through. Will give an update once the rest is complete!

[@SupremoFilms]

Hey i been following up with your videos on this topic. I have a 2012 Audi a3 (8p) with a 2.0tfsi engine. My issue is that along with oil consumption i am getting, one of the cylinders are wetting the spark plug with oil and causing misfire. It could be the piston rings as i had a shop do the timing chain, rear main seal and new cylinder head as they thought it was the valve stem seals. They basically half-assed rebuilt my engine and I lost lots of money. The car has been sitting for 2 years now since it can't pass emissions, I want to give this method a try before trying to buy another engine. What do you recommend? Do you think this could help?

[@ETMotorsports]

@SupremoFilms @SupremoFilms hey 100%... if you watch the first video on my A4 I had the exact same issue - cylinder 3 spark plug was soaked with oil and would misfire within 5 min of running... the car wasn't driveable - the engine would shut off that cylinder because of the misfires...I did the valve seals as well and that was a huge waste of time... the piston soak completely transformed the vehicle

[@SupremoFilms]

@@ETMotorsports I appreciate your response, and yes I have watched all your videos on this topic. I'm going to follow your steps and will keep you and the community updated as soon as I can.

[@miguelvega9957]

Hey guys, I finished the soak yesterday on my Q7 , did oil change , new sparkplugs , engine filter, after around 12 hours and 70 miles i got the check engine light on. Getting P2006-Intake manifold runner bank 1 stuck closed P2007-Intake manifold runner bank 2 stuck closed . Any ideas?

[@ETMotorsports]

@miguelvega9957 hmm that shouldn't be related to the soak... did you maybe leave something unplugged?

[@miguelvega9957]

​@ETMotorsports, thanks for the quick response. In fact, i did leave the rubber hose disconnected on the selenoid valve .

[@miguelvega9957]

I have plugged it back in, which should take care of the check engine light, I hope. Also, thank you so ulmuch for making this video, I'll update my oil consumption on a separate comment, I will be hitting the road for Thanksgiving, and I'm confident that my oil consumption will improve. I recently started to notice the oil consumption (3 months ago) 18 Q7 was eating about 1qt every 1,00p miles. Pistons were dirty as expected and took some pics and footage before and after. Manual crank got stuck a couple of times, but was able to blow and dust out carbon residue. I'm excited and looking forward to positive results:) Thanks again, Sir. Greetings from Chicago.

[@achou82]

Thank you for making this video! I’ve a 2018 q7 3.0T experiencing the same problem, I live in Kingston which is close to Ottawa, usually need to top up 1L of engine oil per 500 km, could you help me to recommend a shop that can perform this service? Thank you!

[@ETMotorsports]

hey very few shops will ever attempt this on a customer car unfortunately...everybody thinks this is some snake oil magic so they don't want to deal with unhappy customers...you're probably better off doing the job yourself - it's not that complicated

[@achou82]

@ finally I found a shop here locally willing to try piston ring soak. It’s now around 1000 km since the soak, no sign of oil drop. I did had a start stop system malfunction and engine check light around 250 km but it eventually cleared on its own. Thank you for making this video, I’ll provide more update in the future.

[@drm916]

Which crank turning tool did you use? I cant seem to find one that is listed for the 4m q7. I see some that are a 4 point that fit between the bolts and one that covers all 8 bolts. Neither are listed for the 4m 3.0T Supercharged.

[@drm916]

Never mind. I got it figured out

[@andrewmccauley2807]

Hi Mate, love your videos, just wondering what software you use to make your Thumbnails as they fonts really standout nice? Thanks

[@ETMotorsports]

Thanks! Lol PowerPoint :)