How to fix excessive oil consumption from clogged piston rings (Part 1)

In this video I perform two stages of piston soak on my Audi A4 2.0T engine to fix severe engine misfire caused by oil burning. I use STP and SeaFoam engine treatments for the first cycle and Berrymans B12 for the second cycle.
DISCLAIMER
This video provides general information and discussion on the topic of piston soaking an engine and reducing excessive oil consumption. If you choose to try this method on your engine you do so at your own risk. This video and the information included in it are not intended to serve as a substitute for a consultation with a professional mechanic. Under no circumstances will Eurotrash Motorsports be responsible or liable in any way for any content, including but not limited to, any errors or omissions in the content, or for any loss or damage of any kind incurred as a result of any content communicated in this video, whether by Eurotrash Motorsports or a third party.

[@anthonycolella7049]

2011 Audi A4 Quattro at 105,000 miles - I followed your piston soak with B-12 only. I was burning 1 quart per 150 miles, and am now at 500 miles with zero oil loss. Unbelievable. THANK YOU. You saved me thousands; it feels like a new car (better idle, start, throttle response, power), and like you said it’s not “cured” but $50 every year or two for an hour worth of time is way worth it. Great job; I can’t thank you enough. Tip- I “slipped” cranking the engine by hand once and did a fast quarter turn and squirted some B-12 out which happened to get in my eye (ouch)… crank strong, but slow. Now that I know the process, I think I can do this for a total investment of about 20 minutes up front, 4 60-second cranks, and then 20 minutes to put everything back together and do an oil change.

[@ETMotorsports]

Awesome results - really happy it worked well...eek B12 in the eye - careful! Keep us posted with your final results

[@avix213]

duddddeeee with this chemicals u can lose your vision if its one of the nasty one...

[@xlightssx]

My daughter had a Jetta with a similar engine and she a had a miss fire on cylinder 1 due to low compression. I piston soak that cylinder with marvel mystery oil and I was able to increase compression by 10 psi but not enough to stop the miss fire. At this point the car would only throw a code if it idled more than 5 minutes. So, I reduced the oil changed intervals to 3000 miles, used the cheapest full synthetic oil Walmart had to offer, and added Rislone engine treatment to every oil change. If took a little over a year for the compression to restore and the miss fire to go away. I reduced the oil change interval mileage and started using the Rislone to prevent other piston rings from sticking and causing other cylinder to misfire. But I accidentally came across to the solution of my problem of a stuck piston ring in cylinder 1. Since then I have reduced oil change intervals to 5000 miles on all my vehicles and I add Rislone to every change. Hope this helps someone.

[@ETMotorsports]

Thanks for the info... I'll have to check Rislone out

[@Mr_BUSINESS_24_7]

How much marvel mystery oil and or Berryman's Chem Tool B12 are your guys putting in the cylinder ?

[@xlightssx]

@@Mr_BUSINESS_24_7enough to cover the entire piston. Try 2 inches of depth. Also remember, after you are done with the soak, extract what ever fluid is left before putting back on the spark plug. This will prevent hydro locking engine damage. Don’t do this job if you don’t know what you are doing.

[@Mr_BUSINESS_24_7]

@@xlightssx I know what I'm doing. I know exactly what you mean. I'm thinking like 4 oz. of chemicals per cylinder. Fortunately, I only have (1) cylinder (cylinder #5 on my 2002 Acura TL Type S) that's 15 psi (7%) short on compression. If the soak doesn't take care of it.. ... I'm thinking that additional oil additives like Seafoam, Marvel Mystery Oil, Lucas Upper Cylinder Lubricant, engine oil flushes, etc... .... will hopefully take care of the issue be it through oil additives or fuel additives.

[@kfl611]

I like Rislone, too !

[@halifaxlithos2488]

I have much respect for how meticulous you are in your process, as well as how well you document the process. Thank you!

[@ETMotorsports]

Thanks for the note!

[@exploringwithdan7876]

This engine is actually very reliable, the piston ring is the design issue for emissions, once you do the right piston rings really the only thing is timing chain. Everything else is just wear and tear. Number one thing to do from day one is add a oil catch can! Helps with carbon ALOT! Change oil every 4 to 5 thousand miles! They are turbocharged, it’s my rule of thumb. Don’t go over 5 thousand miles on anything turbocharged don’t listen to any of these dealers that say different. My 2012 a4 has 185 k on her timing chain once at 138k, turbo at 145k that’s it. Did a carbon clean before my oil catch can at 100k definitely a lot of carbon build up. Just went to a carbon clean and what a world of difference did that oil catch can make! A lot of people complain about car but a lot of it is the lack of maintenance! Thanks for the video!

[@ETMotorsports]

Yeah lack of maintenance is a very common thing these days

[@marcusmack3632]

Thanks for sharing this! I did this to my 2014 allroad. It was burning a quart every 300 miles. I did this with Berrymans B12 only and it hasn't burned any oil in 1500 miles! I blew all the crap out of the spark plug holes with my air compressor and also changed the PCV at the same time. You're the man brother!

[@ETMotorsports]

Great results! Glad it worked

[@poopyheads5720]

I own a 2012 GTI 2.0T I watched several video on this before performing this service. THIS BLEW MY MIND THAT IT WORKED!!!!. Posting this on every video I can find to help out many more who are unsure. Everyone needs to do this if they have. 2.0 TSI burning oil mine would burn 1/2 quart every 300 miles now can’t even notice. !!!

[@ETMotorsports]

Awesome results!!

[@poopyheads5720]

@@ETMotorsports update 3 months in no noticeable loss in oil

[@davidwright1653]

I use a can of the Berryman's B-12 in the fuel tank of my 2018 Kia Sportage 2.4L GDI just before going to take the car in for it's 5000 mile oil change. I notice an immediate increase in power and response of acceleration. Cost for a can at my local Walmart is around $4.85 US. Excellent product.

[@ETMotorsports]

Thanks for sharing!

[@Srdjan249]

Pouring this in the fuel tank? Is it safe?

[@henrytom5824]

That 2.4l needs an oil catch can.

[@davidwright1653]

@@henrytom5824 I actually researched that and discussed it with my mechanic about installing one. The dilemma is i live in northern Illinois so we get periods of below freezing temperatures. The, car is not garaged and i often make short trips. The oils caught in the catch can may freeze thus restricting the flow of vapors and possible damage to the engine. If I lived south of Indianapolis then it would be a different story and I'd do it.

[@Gonefishing185]

I think you might’ve had a typo, and you put the Berrymans in your crank case prior to the oil change, not the gas tank

[@sadjiocamara4054]

Thanks for the video, I am having a similar problem oil burning and high fuel consumption ( 2010 Audi A4 1.8tfsi)

[@daviddavidson3606]

BMW N63TU owner here. This engine is notorious for oil consumption. Over the winter at 130k I replaced all 32 valve stem seals and was underwhelmed, even borderline upset, when I saw the oil consumption went from a quart every 200-300 miles to a quart every 500 miles. I thought this month-long process of changing the seals was the definitive fix for this. What didn’t click immediately was one weird thing: while changing the seals I would take an air nozzle to the cylinders to blow out any debris, and carbon would shoot out and sandblast my face. Most of the carbon was smaller sand-like particulate but there were larger chunks that blew out at first. As it turned out, burning oil for so long left significant carbon deposits on the piston crown and on the piston rings. I came across this video and knew exactly my issue was stuck rings, and so I bought six cans of B12 and did two 6-hour soaks while manually rotating the engine. A few cylinders were completely empty after a few hours and had to be topped off. After two days of soaks I suctioned out the remaining B12, changed the oil twice, and on the second refill used a newer (not BMW LL-01FE approved) engine oil targeted at reducing piston deposits. After 1,500 miles the oil level just ticked below the ‘full’ mark. Another observation I saw was checking the O2 sensors. Before the B12 both upstream sensors were sooty and black. 1,500 miles after the B12 treatment the passenger side O2 sensor was a white/gray as expected, but the driver side sensor was still sooty black. And so I’ll perform another two soak sessions on the driver side bank which will resolve all oil burning, likely making this the only non-oil burning N63TU with over 100k miles.

[@jessejames96]

I wouldn't recommend dropping spark plugs into the cylinder holes. You can easily damage or bend the tangs on the spark plugs and close the spark gaps. Use a 6 inch piece of rubber tubbing/hose or a pencil magnet

[@matthewcallnan8822]

YES! Use tubing...start them with the tube jammed on the end, instead of a wrench, to avoid cross threading into the aluminum head. That will give you a REALLY bad day!

[@NagashiChidorii]

I was cringing every time he did this. Absolutely crazy!! Weird how meticulous he is but yet doing this kind of action

[@Tony-ib2vm]

Use the plug wire boot to start the threads, dk if the coil can do this too...

[@edward1927]

Or use a spark plug socket that can actually hold a spark plug and start them that way. Dude also cranked out all the solvents and got it all over engine bay and body paint. Extract it and then put a rag over each cylinder to catch solvent before blasting it all over the car. Not super into this dudes style

[@ianakam2536]

I have a 2013 Audi Q5 with 2.0L engine, purchased used in 2017. Started tracking oil consumption in 2019, where I was burning 1L every 3,500km, which increased to approx. 1L every 650km as of NOV2023. Did piston soak as outlined in these videos on 27NOV2023. Also did engine flush with seafoam in oil immediately after and replaced with new oil. To date, I have travelled 2,600km and consumed 1/5th of the oil consumption bar. Rough estimate is now 1L every 13,000km. Will wait until warning light comes on to get better estimate of oil consumption. Extremely happy with the results! I currently have 216,000km on this engine. Finding these and similar videos was a big win! It saved me from having my engine torn apart for piston rings, and a potential 10K bill. Thank you to Eurotrash and the power of the internet for working out a plausible alternative to the dealer recommended solution. Will update once oil warning light comes on.

[@ETMotorsports]

Awesome results!!! Thanks for the feedback

[@salchristiano6606]

While I was at Saturn in the early 2000’s they had lots of S-series cars with carboning and oil consumption issues. BG came in with a hydraulic machine that plugged into the plug holes and pulsed their solution through the engine. If I remember correctly it actually moved the pistons slowly up and down. The techs took nearly 2 hours to run the machine and then they did 2 oil flushes ran the engine and then put in new plugs. The system worked well. Most cars saw significant improvement in oil consumption.

[@ETMotorsports]

sounds like a good solution actually...makes all the sense in the world

[@aliassabertooth5990]

Nice video. Great editing and content.

[@zeroxthree568]

thanks for these videos. I am looking forward to getting through with all the issues on this car so I can resell and get some of my money back even though it will be at a loss after all the work been put into it

[@ETMotorsports]

Sorry to hear... yeah they can be money pits

[@zeroxthree568]

@@ETMotorsports most definitely, trying to be positive through the experience as I've learned a lot more about cars and engines in general from all the work I have chose to do myself instead of pay mechanic to do Channel's like yours have actually saved me thousands on repairs By the way did you ever figure out what those bits were in oil pan? Did oil pump recently and had little black and orange fragments in mine too

[@TonyBasuro]

Cars are NOT an investment, they are an expense. Enjoy the luxury and the learning. Not sure? Go drive a clapped-out, penalty-box econo-car for a day (or an Altima!) You should feel better about keeping the Audi.

[@briancorrigan5350]

Don't forget to check a common source of excess oil in the intake manifold, a torn diaphragm in your PCV or air/oil separator. There should also be some kind of check valve between the manifold and the PCV preventing turbo boost from overpowering the PCV. Otherwise you will suck a ton of oil vapor into the intake manifold and burn it.

[@ETMotorsports]

Hey that's great advice - I didn't go into details on this video but that was one of the parts I replaced while trying to diagnose the misfire...I was absolutely convinced it was the PCV because the oil was on to of the valves but nothing changed unfortunately... but you're 100% correct - if you're having oil burning issues you gotta check the PCV first

[@endercart2753]

​@@ETMotorsportswhen you did the procederes you use the same sparks or use new one always in the procedures?

[@endercart2753]

Im use a camera to see the pistons head and is crazy how dirt is, and have the same problem with misfire when the car is cold start and then is gone but not at all, I use the live data in the scanner and the 3 and 4 has short misfire and the oil burning is crazy

[@labradoodle5097]

@@ETMotorsports My use of Lucas injector cleaner or the Liqui Moly coincided with changing the PCV and I'm sure they all helped a great deal. The PCV was most likely the original and had 208,000 miles on it. The oil consumption went down a huge amount after doing all 3 of these together, so I'll never know for sure if it was one or the other or all 3 together that helped with the serious oil consumption issue my 3.8L had. I'm just glad it's now only a qt every 5,000 miles instead of every 500 miles.

[@thecurebr]

Could you say more about this check valve connected to the PCV? I have replaced the whole PCV valve but I am still burning oil way beyond what the manufacturer considers normal. Thanks

[@raysstuffz]

Thanks man, this was really helpful. First video watched, subscribed right away🙂

[@bryanjohnson6190]

Great video, thanks for posting it! I have been battling the same issue with our 2017 Audi Q7 since we got it with 94k miles, it's at 145k now. I replaced the PCV, no change. Tried various other things, but a Berryman's B12 piston soak with a similar method to yours has reduced our oil consumption from 1 quart per 400 miles, to over 1500 miles per quart. And so far it's still running fine, where before it would stumble and misfire a lot and occasionally set codes and go into limp mode. I plan to do another soak and see if I can get some further improvement.

[@ETMotorsports]

Awesome results!!

[@hgas9631]

How is this holding up? Our q7 3.0T with 124k is consuming 1 quart per 800 miles. Already did the pcv didn’t help much

[@ETMotorsports]

@@hgas9631 4500km no light yet... doing the first oil change in a couple of weeks

[@michaelholzbauer2218]

@@ETMotorsports Same car & situation (but 2018) as @bryanjohnson6190 - I'm in the middle of piston soak now. Question - pistons look terrible - lots of build up/gunk. Going through lots of B12. At what point is it safe to close it back up and run? Do I need to extract gunk from cylinder? Any possible way to contact directly for advice and share of scope images?

[@ETMotorsports]

@michaelholzbauer2218 hey you can get my whatsapp info from the FB page if you want to send pics... it's pretty normal to have gunk on top of the piston - my A4 was pretty sooty...B12 will soften all that up and if you crank with the plugs out it'll hopefully throw it out of the cylinder... beyond that you can try shop vac to collect the garbage or if you have a power bleeder that could work too

[@tsvetelinnizamski]

Hello from London. First big thank you for that video. It really works for now. Driven only 320 miles after the piston soak but so far no or very little consumption. My car is 2016 passat b8 2.0 tdi . Bought it 4 years ago at 150000 miles. At that time the oil consumption was about 1 liter per 1300-1400 miles. It is now at 245000 and the oil consumption gradually increased to 1.2 litres for 300 miles. I had to clean DPF 6 times because it was clogging every few months . I am always running Mobil 1 esp and basically at the end I was only replacing filters because the oil has been constantly fresh topping it up.(It’s expensive here in UK. £55 for 5L). 1 month ago the DPF clogged to the point where the back pressure hoses exploded so I decided to finally sort the consumption. I knew piston rings are probably the cause of it but wanted to try the cheaper options first which are turbo , crank case breather and valve stem seals. I also ran 1:4 ATF in the oil with no results. It was time for timing belt anyway so I’ve replaced these things with no improvement at all. Few days ago I was researching to buy all parts involved in replacing the pistons and rings and somehow found you video. So I was “nothing to lose here. Let’s try” The Berryman here in UK is a spray form carb cleaner. £19 for 2 bottles 453ml. Poured (sprayed)one bottle trough the glow plug holes and followed your directions topping up every few hours. At 26 hours mark cranked the engine to get everything left in cylinders installed the glow plugs an replaced the oil as the one in engine was very diluted and I was afraid not to destroy bearings. On initial crank no compression at all so STRONGLY SUGGEST ADDING SOME OIL IN CYLINDERS before any attempts to rotate or start the engine. With the oil in cranked to get it out and then glow plugs in and started first time. I will be driving another 600-700 miles for the next 3 days so I will update. Very happy for now. I hope the issue is sorted Thanks again

[@ETMotorsports]

hey thanks for the detailed message...a few viewers have asked about doing this to a diesel motor and I didn't have any experience with it...I`m really glad this worked - very interested in what your final numbers will end up as...I have gone through multiple TDis and haven't really had oil consumption issues before - too bad the new motor is experiencing this especially with all the emissions issues they've had... Another viewer used the spray form carb clearner B12 and didn't seem to have much luck with it...here in Canada carb cleaner is very similar to break cleaner which is pretty strong and evaporates very quickly...were you able to scope the cylinders to see if the liquid actually made its way down? I'd be a little worried running carb cleaner through the motor so I think draining it without running was a good idea...you can add some engine treatment to your oil so the cleaning process continues over the first 5000km or so.... a lot of folks seem to be concerned about their catalytic converters running B12 in but as you've clearly seen, burning these amounts of oil continuously is way worse than running B12 for 20-30 min... fingers crossed your issue is resolved - please keep us posted!

[@Donciulis]

@cvetelinnizamski4835 how are your current results? I have high oil consumption on my Audi A4 2012 2.0 tdi. Looking into trying the piston soak myself.

[@tsvetelinnizamski]

Update on my consumption. So far no consumption at all. The first 1000 miles the oil dropped slightly. Topped up 300ml to bring it back to max level and since I’ve made another 1000 miles without any oil consumption. I had no boroscope to inspect cylinders and I was little bit concerned where all the crap will go but so far it’s all okay.

[@ETMotorsports]

@@tsvetelinnizamski great results... on the Q5bi also noticed the consumption improve with the mileage...I ultimately went through 1L in 5000km but the majority was gone by the first 2000

[@seanh3075]

Mine runs fine, but is starting to burn oil. Definitely going to do this! Great video!

[@ETMotorsports]

What's your consumption?

[@DarkOfGold]

Is it possible to test all modern coolant types (G12, G12+, G12++, G13) for spark plug fouling on engines that burn a small amount of coolant due to a head gasket leak? I have small Ford Focus Mk1 1.6 engine that burns 50-100 mL of coolant every 1000km or so. After hot restarting the engine (e.g., after stopping 15mins for shopping) the engine misfires heavily and jerks. By applying 3-4 presses of throttle up to 3000rpm the misfire goes away. This happens due to coolant leaking to one of the 4 cylinders. This is on G12. I want to see if G13 could be better in my case.

[@tuberstitious]

Enjoyed your vids. Trying to track down oil loss in wife's 2014 outback. Had hesdgasket replaced and losing oil ever since, about 1/4 to 1/3 qt in about 300 -400 miles (US). BOXER naturally aspirated. Watching you and DIY DAVE. Thanks for posting.

[@ETMotorsports]

Not too familiar with that motor but it might be similar... although I'm not exactly sure how you would piston soak a horizontal motor lol

[@d47000]

FB25 engines in the 2013+ Outback 2.5i have a well documented tendency to burn heaps of oil even when new. If you're under 100k miles, it may be a warranty issue, otherwise I would switch to an oil that is one grade heavier (I believe manual specifies 0w20, so try switching to a 0w30 or 5w30). If it's a 3.6, all I can say is that it's probably got a really bad leak or your rings are completely toasted. Normal consumption for the 3.6 is 1qt every 2-6k miles. Normal consumption for the 2013+ 2.5 is 1qt every 1-3k miles. Also, if you haven't already, I would definitely change out your PCV valve. It's an $8 part and won't take you more than 20 minutes to change, and if it's stuck shut, it will cause excess oil consumption like you've described. It can also cause leaks.

[@honestguy7764]

fucking subaru engines, they all consume oil in high quantities , and mine know also swallows the refrigerant

[@poleposition3065]

Use a liqui moly flush every oil change and use a catch can. Also a thicker oil will burn less

[@JustAGuy85]

@@poleposition3065 Throw Rotella T6 5W-40 in there. I've seen dozens upon dozens of used oil analyses on Subie's and T6. Nothing beats it. Plus, it'll clean any gunk off your rings and then rejuvenate them. I don't mean to run it one time, either. I mean for life. Check out the bob is the oil guy forums, look at the UOA's and see for yourself what's the best oil in those engines. HINT: It's Rotella T6.

[@FaD3_KASHES]

Thank you so much, I could never fully express my gratitude for this video.

[@ETMotorsports]

Did you try it?

[@Ssapex4137]

Thank you. I did the exactly the same thing as shown in this video. It fixed oil burning issue in my 2013 Audi A4. It lost 1qt per 1000miles. I didn't see any message for adding oil yet even after running 1500miles. Clearly, I would say " improved ". Thank you! You save $$$ a lot.

[@ETMotorsports]

Glad it worked!!

[@arbengashi932]

Guy's I traying to get my hand's on b12 chematol but that product do not come to eu any advice?

[@gilberthale7777]

Very cool info. I have been a skeptic re: what additive can do for a vehicle, especially for an engine or transmission. But, as of late I have used seafoam to clean out older engines with trult spectacular results. Yours is a more extreme situation with the oil consumption (and plug fouling) situation being corrected. From what I have been reading the lower piston ring temsion levels are largely responsible for increased oil consumption, where the ring tension is reduced in an effort to increase fuel mileage (less internal friction), but it tends to keep the rings from helping the oil control rings from scraping off excess oil from the cylinder walls. Oncde the oil control rings begin to build up deposits that prevent free flowing of scraped oil down to the crankcase we get into trouble, as the compression rings are rendered nearly useless in helping with excess oil on the cyllinder walls due to loss of tension pressure. Thus, I can see how helping clean those deposits will help reduce oil consumption. Anyway, thank you for sharing this info. I look foward to seeing the rsults of a similar approach with your sister's car, and have subscribed to your channel in hopes of seeing that video once you have time to put it together. Having our own How To KZbin channel, I get the work involved in producing even ad hoc videos to share info like this. Feel free to check it out at: www.youtube.com/@gilberthale7777/videos

[@ETMotorsports]

thanks for the note - I`ll keep you guys updated on the Q5...doing the oil change in a week or so

[@jameswoodcock3688]

​@@ETMotorsportslooking forward to this. What year is the q5? I have a 2015 that is destroying oil!

[@angeloagiomavritis5333]

Great video, gonna try it on my 2014 Allroad to see if it helps with oil consumption, my car doesn't have a misfire, however I need to add a liter every 900km. Funny, I remember that ice storm, I'm from Montreal and lived through 2 ice storms, not fun at all. Thanks again for a great comprehensive video.

[@ETMotorsports]

Good luck!

[@debirtmaynard]

Clearly there are some positive results in this particular scenario. I'm inclined to try it on my 200,000 km engine which seen better days.

[@theenglishtrucker1849]

iridium tips on spark plugs are super brittle. I don't think its a good idea to just drop them into the holes like that. Could be a disaster if the tip breaks off and lands on the cylinder.

[@andrewlaw]

I shuddered the way he just threw them in. Great way to narrow the pre-gapped plugs. 🤦

[@monkkayllc446]

The problem with these motors is manufactures don’t care a lot of these motors are giving problems well under 100,000 miles I see as low as 60,000 miles so basically 60,000 miles you’re ready for a new car to the point that that Hass to go in the junkyard because to do the motor the right way for your average person outweighs the price of the car unless you have all these tools and you’re a mechanic I got time to do it you could rebuild it the right way. I personally think we should stop buying these cars I have a 2012 cc this is my last Volkswagen I will ever buy because if you can’t make piston rings after all these years of building cars you’re not worth my money.

[@JustAGuy85]

@@monkkayllc446 Yeah, they don't make 'em like they used to. If you ask me... The older 302/5.0's and 351w/5.8's were just unbeatable. The Ford 4.6 V8 SOHC was also an indestructible engine. As was the 4.6 DOHC 32v... it's just more rare, but it's a wicked engine. But now? Manufacturers can't be trusted to build a simple naturally aspirated engine, let alone a 2.0 liter 4 cyl turbo. I've heard Honda is already having issues with their 1.5 4cyl turbo engines in the Civic Si's. And I believe it because my sister has one. The DI (direct injection) is apparently diluting the oil so bad that they're spinning bearings. I'm sure they call for 5W-20, also, so that's always stupid. If people only knew how thick ANY oil is at start up they'd stop fretting over the 6-8cst difference between an xW-20 and xW-40. I mean, at 100C/212F, most xW-20's are 7.x cst. At start up (or rather, 40C) they're probably around 70cst. At 40C, Rotella T6 5W-40 is more around 115cst, I believe, but at 100C/212F it's a near 15cst oil that shears down to 13.6cst and stays there for the remainder of its time. You and anyone reading this should look at some UOA's at bob is the oil guy forums and see how oils perform. There are two oils out there that beat everything in wear metals. Rotella T6 5W-40 and Pennzoil Platinum 5W-30. However, the best oil in the world doesn't prevent design flaws. I don't even want a new car. I want what I've always known to be reliable. I'm about to get an older Honda Civic or something for daily driving. Older as in 2012. Gotta have one with a manual transmission, too. Ford, Chevy and Dodge have disgraced themselves in comparison to what they were up until the early 2000's.

[@stephenperrone8694]

"Dissolvent"? The word is solvent.

[@ImNicky295]

dis·sol·vent

[@iamkleggo]

Thanks for taking the time to post this DIY. Will try it on my 2010 3.0 T Avant. Will let you know results. Ps I figure close to $250 US $ to perform this process 2X and THANKS for calling your engine an ENGINE not a motor (electric) Ciao

[@ETMotorsports]

Keep us posted on your results!

[@meaculpamishegas]

The Berryman’s is a good mix of cleaners xylene, toluene, and acetone so be careful; the Seafoam is naphthenic oil, naphtha and isopropanol which isn’t as potent or hazardous; and the STP is like Gumout which can be used as a motor treatment, it has polyetheramine which is probably the safest to use of the bunch. B12 is the cheapest and most effective, but also the most risky; use it as directed. German autos often have finicky components and I would be wary of not having a mechanic do everything since there’s typically a lot of plastic, nylon and rubber. Use Bosch double iridium plugs, they’re relatively cheap, very good quality and last as long or longer than others; the same goes for their oil filters

[@MarkShinnick]

Nice summery, thanks.

[@tikitakutakutaku578]

Bought this damm engine - Audi 2011 late model stw and has 170 000 km driven. So should i already look those parts that you did?. I think you are very very good at analyzing this engine!. I go fetch it tomorrow and drive home 420km. That speciment has oil consumption 0.7l / 8000km and is measured twice. Thank you being honest and professional!.

[@kelvinrukato6830]

I have a toyota quest 2015 model .car consumes oil.and burn oil .what might be the problem.coz engine was done 2months ago .

[@TejasToolMan]

back in the 90s we did something similar and had great results using diesel poured in while motor was at operating temp, let it soak for 72 hours on the pistons, sometimes in the oil too depending on sludge build up on american I4 V6 V8 non turbo models

[@ETMotorsports]

That would be a great substitute and easily accessible everywhere...I don't think it's as strong of a solvent but it's safe for the motor

[@propm]

I used Diesel in my B7 2 TFSI, it definitely reduced oil consumption, but it's not gone completely. But the car is currently in the garage due to low oil pressure... again, so I will take the oil pan off soon and see if the oil pick-up is clogged again. probably shit from the engine I could not reach the last time I did this came loose, and now I have to clean it out one more time. hopefully, that will permanently fix it as I will never change the oil as late as the service interval in the manual says to change.

[@ETMotorsports]

@propm yeah diesel would be a fairly safe alternative although not as strong as the B12

[@labradoodle5097]

@@ETMotorsports What about running a gallon of Diesel in a full 20 gallon gas tank once or maybe a couple of times? Would that clean things up or cause a problem?

[@ETMotorsports]

@@labradoodle5097 that wouldn't do anything about the piston rings... might get some misfires too

[@erichartke4331]

Great video and showing your process. I have a 2019 VW Sportwagen with the 1.8T. I have about 105,000 km. I do my my oil changes at 8,000 km from day one even though Volkswagen insisted i should do it at 15,000 km i was being "wasteful". A friend of mine who is a independent VW Audi tech suggested I use Seafaom 500 km before an oil change. Sometimes I forget, but appear to lost I minimal amount of oil. I should look up a good way to do this for my wife's Subaru in 5,000 km she has to replace all the oil basically.

[@ETMotorsports]

Hey good points! I've had a few people ask about subaru - i couldn't figure out how to do it unless the engine is on a stand or you somehow tilt the car 🤣

[@thelostmachine8395]

The slant deck presents a problem with the piston soak method. you need to pull the right side of the vehicle up on car ramps, just the right side front and rear wheel in order to get the cylinders pointing more vertical orientation. The product leaked past the rings at the lowest point and not evenly all around the cylinder wall. Everything drained into the crankcase at only one area in the combustion chamber that's why hardly anything came out when you cranked it over before reinstalling the spark plugs.

[@JustAGuy85]

Also, yes, you aren't supposed to run the Chemtool in the engine oil for over 10 minutes, so good call on changing the oil out. It is a very potent solvent, though, that's for sure.

[@jayimmortal]

Thank you for your vdo , i need to follow your step, i have audi q5 2.0TFSI 2011 (85,000km) burning 1liter every 300-500km, but in my country i cannot find B12 Chemtool, can you suggest another product good enough to replace B12 , and i have question do i need to do this every time when change the engine oil? Thank you very much

[@ETMotorsports]

Hey a few viewers have been able to order B12 from ebay and ship to their country...as for alternatives you can try LiquiMoly Engine Flush Pro Line or their injector cleaner alternative

[@_DustinYO]

The b-12 works! I just did the same in my 2011 VW GTI. Thanks for the video. I would have never tried “snake oil” and just tore it down for new rings and updated oil control rings.

[@ETMotorsports]

Awesome! Any more details? What was your consumption? What about after the treatment? Any issues wth the process?

[@_DustinYO]

@@ETMotorsports i was burning about a quart in about 300-400 miles. There was a large plume of smoke after any kind of 0% throttle decl. Compression and leakdown tests all looked good. I let the pistons soak for about 30 hrs. Put the first can in then topped off about 6 hrs later.

[@vladimirmacko1481]

did you rotate the engine as well?

[@danielstoscup755]

That coil harness is clever looking.

[@ricksivyer7427]

A great video, I'm going to try this with my mini, as it's failed it's mot on smoke, but it's not that bad, so hopefully this will help, thanks for your tutorial.

[@ETMotorsports]

Good luck!

[@ronaldmueller3730]

Hello from Oregon , I like your application and research. Great video, very well done. HUGE oversight possibly! You addressed the concerns of the B12 product not containing lube and not designed as a crankcase additive! Huge caution needed when running B12 with engine oil! B12 is very / extremely aggressive. As a piston soak its great. Absolutely do not run an engine with B12 in the oil! SF, MMO, and others state on the can and product info, are suitable for such applications. B12 being so aggressive works extremely fast at cleaning. So more attention is required in the cleaning Prossess

[@ETMotorsports]

Yeah you really don't want to run it for a long period - for a short period of time or should be ok... plenty of folks have run it as an engine flush but you're right that stuff like seafoam and liquimoly engine flush are safer for sure...I think it comes down to how bad your problem is... on this Q5 the consumption was bad enough that I needed that extra bit with the b12 flush

[@teddy_awdB19]

​@@ETMotorsports10mins? 15mins? The amount of time to run b12 in your engine

[@ETMotorsports]

@teddy_awdB19 honestly anything you're comfortable with...I did 15 min idle in the A4 and I did 30 min at hwy speeds in the Q5... anything longer than that I think you start asking for trouble

[@stephenthomas4253]

I would have placed the boot and coil assemblies over the holes instead of paper towels. Would reduce evaporation.... loved the mis-matched plugs used!

[@ETMotorsports]

that's a good point - it would close it off better for sure but to be honest I don't think much of this evaporated at all...I've had B12 sit on my table for days and it doesn't really go down much if at all so this is mostly to keep other junk from falling in...

[@samuelcritton8012]

Do you think this would work on a 2017 Audi Q7 3.0T motor that is burning quite a lot of oil? I recently replaced the PCV system with no improvement. I just performed the Luiqimoly Engine flush along with the Liquimoly Ceratec oil additive, but I am already seeing the oil level go down after just a few hundred miles. Thank you for the detailed videos and explanations!

[@ETMotorsports]

I'm doing one this week in the same situation... hoping to report back and have a video within a few weeks...I know of a few viewers who have been successful on their 3.0Ts

[@gumerdominguez4091]

You should be proud you are killing it kiddos for you I think you did a way better job than most so called mechanics

[@ETMotorsports]

Thanks for the kind words!

[@phonkyfeel1]

I found that the Berryman product works better for chemical soak on valves, etc than any other liquid I could purchase on the market. It MELTS sludge. A godsend for direct injection engines. Using sea foam through the gas tank doesn’t reach the valves and pistons btw for these direct injection engines. Neither does it reach those areas even if you spray into the throttle body. Just an fyi that people conveniently forget.

[@AsadAbbas-ix9mw]

Hi Mate, Thanks a lot for the video, I did it and it worked, gave car a very good acceleration so far the car has not given any pop up after doing 500ks but the blowby ahs started to occur, can smell oil after long drive from intake pipe thats going in to rocker cover. should i be doing the process again what do you reckon?

[@ETMotorsports]

Hmm i would wait for 5k before repeating the process... time it with the next oil change so you're not wasting oil... for the smell though it could be coming from many places so unless you're still burning a lot of oil, don't repeat the process... look for another source of oil - maybe PCV

[@Bizija123]

Nice video. I have a 2015 A5 2.0T and it's doing great. No oil burning issues. I think it may have the upgraded pistons from factory.

[@mstar501]

2015 and on are fine, they have the updated rings...

[@krlpl6282]

I thought it's from 2013 they put better rings

[@jsnboston]

2015s and on are not fine lol

[@jthomas5294]

Great video. I have the same car, what's the part# for the oil dipstick? My car didn't come with one.

[@qm2092]

Have a 2003 Lexus IS300 with 270K miles on it. Burns 1 quart every 2000 miles. Has been doing it since 150K miles. No visible oil leaks or blue smoke. Gonna give this a shot and let you know the results.

[@ETMotorsports]

Good luck!

[@carlbrooks90]

I'm in the same boat as you with my 2002 is300 using shell rotella atm

[@adotkhan]

Hi, thanks for the awesome video. i have bought Audi A5 and waiting its delivery next week. 2010 A5 and same issue EPC light, ring pistons to be replaced. Hope it works, fingers crossed. Have you tried or know if YamaLube Ring Free fuel additive or BG EPR 109 will be good one to use?

[@ETMotorsports]

Hey EPC light is often related to oil pressure issues with the intake cam... I've got another video for oil pressure - check that out... if the EPC is coming up at roughly 1500rpm it's oil pressure related... the rings cause misfires because of fouled plugs but I haven't seen an EPC issue wth them

[@adotkhan]

@@ETMotorsports Ahh ok gotcha…im here in Australia and Berrymans B12 one can is A$38 (haha ) I think its $5 in Canada. Anyways ordered few cans… Fingers crossed, car coming next week and will definitely let you know I will look now at your EPC video Any idea on YamaLube or BG EPR ?

[@uap4544]

How the sparks plugs are going on?

[@azamcoolem5729]

1200km? how much oil did you use? 4.6l or 5l?

[@malanthrop]

Absolutely worked for my 2015 Passat

[@HugOCovers]

In Diesel motors we can do this process? If the clean fluid don't disappear from top of piston, I'm diesel sparks will not be able to to start??

[@ETMotorsports]

Yup works on diesels too... if the B12 hasn't gone down, just hit the starter a few times to clear up the cylinders before putting the plugs back

[@Boz1211111]

i see you doing flush as per diydave instructions. i also did it but in 20min drive i did full throttle pulls and my oil consupmtion reduced to around 1/9 from what i had. of course, if issue are not gummed piston rings but just worn engine this wont help

[@jugni0019]

Hi there, would putting b12 or seamfoam into the combustion chamber wont hurt the head gaskit ? Or gaskit by pistons? TIA

[@ETMotorsports]

no issues with the head gasket...

[@johnharland2336]

Question. I just bought a 19 q5 2.0 Premium Plus w/ 30mi. and no issues, runs like a dream. However, is there anything you recommended that I can preemptively do to keep my rings from clogging up going forward. What additives do you recommend? Thinking Liqui Molly injector cleaner/engine flush and Liqui Molly oil at 5000 mi intervals.

[@ETMotorsports]

Hey first off congrats on your new purchase...I don't think there's much you can do to prevent this from happening... these motors are generally pretty sensitive to good maintenance so the only thing I'd suggest is keeping up with your oil changes, using good quality oil with the correct spec and that's it... doing flushes every oil change is probably a bit excessive especially on a motor that's running well but every 25-30k (5-6 changes at 5k per change) maybe? You can run an injector cleaner through the tank any time really in accordance with the cleaner instructions... that shouldn't hurt anything

[@andrewlaw]

2019 should be free of the oil burning issue, they'd changed the piston rings by then. Just run good quality oil with detergents in and change every 5-6k miles.

[@davidobutt]

One important thing is changing the oil from 0w 20 to normal 5w Loads of newer audi/vw use these low friction oils now and together with long life intervals of 20,000 miles they really want you to blow your engines earlier than before Their so clever at making a part cheaper and only reliable enough to last past the warranty

[@glennr9913]

VAG recommends adding their fuel treatment to the gas "regularly" to prevent carbon build-up. After discovering this I've begun using an aftermarket brand fuel treatment with each oil change. Hopefully, it helps. The VW part number is G-001-780-M3

[@ryanpinheiro9324]

I’m using a a quart every 300 or so fsi 2.0t and a random misfire at ideal at random times and at fast takeoffs gotta try this out changed Pcv valve and hoses so I’m hoping this helps me out

[@ETMotorsports]

Good luck... yeah the pcv can't account for that much oil... sounds like your engine is going the same as mine wth the misfire... have you checked the plugs?

[@ryanpinheiro9324]

@@ETMotorsports changed them and the coils

[@slabbusterrtr7690]

Got a 2004 nissan xterra 3.3 v6 its eating oil i mean eating it!! half a quart less than 100 miles its not smoking though it leaks very littke i dont know if its leaking more driving down the road or what.. cant figure it out i replaced pvc to

[@ETMotorsports]

Yeah pcv is a common issue but it'll never cause that much oil to disappear... if it's not leaking it's likely coming through the valve seals or piston rings... this treatment could potentially help if its the rings

[@mohammadtz337]

I am dealing with 2007 toyota camry 2.4l. For past 2 years been drinking oil by gallon and adding 1 quart every 300 mile or once a week I have used seafoam in the past and adding 1 quart every 1200 mile .After viewing this video decided to do it with b-12 and i am at 2500 mile with no oil burning. The point that i am making is that this can do marvel and i give it 100% that you will not be sorry .Looks like i can change oil every 5000 mile with no adding in between oil changes.

[@ETMotorsports]

That's awesome! Glad it worked

[@raysentana991]

I have oil on my cylinder two spark just like you and all the others are soiled black (these were brand new plugs a day ago) do I need to change the valve seals like you did or can I just do the b12 piston soak process instead?

[@ETMotorsports]

@@raysentana991 I'd start with the soak... the seals are a significant job and didn't change a thing for me

[@semperer]

What is alternative for B-12? Im from europe and we dont have this stuff here thanks

[@ETMotorsports]

You can try LiquiMoly engine flush pro line but it may not have the same results

[@tomadko23]

Hey bro, when u cranked it over to release all the liquid out did u do anything else to make sure all the liquid was gone? I diddnt put as much as u did in but just worried to plug my sparks back in incase there is liquid i cant see. Also stupid question - can it hydrolock without the sparks and coils in? thanks man

[@ETMotorsports]

hey - you can't hydrolock the motor if the plugs aren't in because it won't make any compression...it`ll just push empty air in and out of the cylinder...I can't really see a situation where after cranking the motor without plugs for a few minutes you still have liquid in there...if you've ever done that you`ll see puffs of "fuel" shooting out of the cylinders - they move pretty quickly so anything in there gets quickly pushed out...if you're really worried crank it without the plugs for say 2-3 minites, let it rest for 30 min and do it again...there should be nothing left in the cylinder at that point but you could also put in some compressed air down the plug holes to really blow it out

[@jasons6312]

Pick up an endoscope so you can look into each cylinder.

[@tkorte101]

​@ETMotorsports I've dipped the cylinders using a piece of rubber vacuum tubing. That'll give you a level indication just like a dipstick. You can also use a syringe from a windshield chip repair kit with the vacuum tube to extract anything if necessary.

[@chrisguillen1495]

I did the soak on my 2016 Q5 92k miles that was burning almost a full quarter every 300 miles. Only bought one can of b12. Soaked and spun engine after 2 hours, repeat the steps. So far I’m 400 plus miles no oil burnt.

[@ETMotorsports]

Awesome results

[@chrisguillen1495]

@@ETMotorsports yes I did not have much time that night. After the second and last round of b12 to top off the pistons, I let it sit overnight. I think that helped a lot. And I put spark plugs on

[@chrisguillen1495]

@@ETMotorsports I’m now at 1600 miles since that oil chance and have not needed to add oil. The sensor read about half

[@ETMotorsports]

@@chrisguillen1495 nice!

[@chrisguillen1495]

@@ETMotorsports thank you for documenting your experience. Without it I would be spending hundreds in oil or dealer fees. Great results!

[@goldengirls0125]

I have the 4 cylinder Toyota that’s prone to heavy oil consumption. It’s not using oil now but do you recommend me adding an oil or gas additive to prevent this in the future . It a propped with rings .

[@ETMotorsports]

Hmm if you're not having issues at the moment I'd only recommend proper oil changes and maybe a flush every 5 oil changes...I wouldn't do this service if you're engine is running ok

[@goldengirls0125]

@@ETMotorsports Thanks

[@jossiechavez7594]

Im having the same issue with my A3 8p. I bought her used, so I have no idea as to how meticulous other people are. This is a GREAT video! Have you come across other solutions by any chance? You said you put 110ml? Of the cleaner on each cylinder ....would more be better? Or just not recommended?

[@ETMotorsports]

you can run as much as you want really...BUT if you do end up using more, maybe consider draining the oil before running the motor...

[@cmte.brazinazzo2061]

My 2009 Corolla 1ZZFE engine doesnt burn oil. Once it started to burn I put half a quart of baby oil and almost immediatelly after that, the oil consumption stop! Naphthenic oil has a huge solvency/solubility of deposits.

[@MultiRafael23]

Baby oil?

[@cmte.brazinazzo2061]

@@MultiRafael23 Yep, mineral USP oil. Naphthenic mineral oil.

[@wolfgang6028]

There’s another channel where a guy seems to have identified Naphta to be one of the 3 core ingredients of seafoam

[@cmte.brazinazzo2061]

@@wolfgang6028 Yes, its Naphthenic Pale Oil (Baby oil) about 70%, Isopropryl alcohol about 15% and Naphta the rest 15% (an aromatic like gasoline). That's why it works at early stages, not on coked sludge.

[@ryanmcneill5269]

hey can you link all the products please and thanks

[@tuan6867]

Good day Thanks info on video . I have q5 2014 oil consumption issues every 500 km 1litre . Any tips recommended to use really appreciated. My car now at 200k

[@ETMotorsports]

Hey you can see the other two videos i made - worked great on my q5

[@ozguckaratas9484]

Hi, What did you use as cleaner?

[@waaromleefik2]

Hello, thank you a lot for this video. My girlfriend has a Peugeot 208 1.0 and is a naturally aspirated 3 cylinder. Is it also possible to do this to that car?

[@ETMotorsports]

Should be - same process

[@waaromleefik2]

@@ETMotorsports Thanks for the fast reply! Thanks!

[@kspree9649]

Great video man I’ve been dealing with same issues with my a4 b8 did a valve clean changed injectors, spark plugs, coils, new injectors keep getting clogged after short period now I’m going to try piston soak and see if it helps.

[@Abdullahkhattab24]

Any updates

[@kspree9649]

@@Abdullahkhattab24 Yes i changed oil at 450 miles im currently at 900 miles with no issues, car is running better and sounds better than before and even better gas mileage i recommend piston soak 👍

[@Abdullahkhattab24]

What treatment you used?

[@kspree9649]

@@Abdullahkhattab24 The Berryman b12 2 bottles and seafoam high mileage in oil just like he did in the video

[@jockobacumbo623]

04 Volvo V70R 2.5 5 cylinder that has low compression in cylinder #3 that is misfiring. Think I’ll try this. Great video!

[@P1n01GIU]

Can I use B12 on a diesel engine? I have a 2.0tdi B8 A4 with oil consumption problem .

[@ETMotorsports]

Yup no issues

[@craigtegeler4677]

In my absolute belief, Berryman's B-12 is THE most powerful formula on the planet and it WORKS! I discovered this oh back around 2003 and it does kick major butt!!

[@mixter7x7]

What did you use it in ? Some people complain that it will loosen the paint inside the oil pan and clog your oil pump inlet screen .

[@craigtegeler4677]

If you feel uneasy about using it in the engine oil don't do it! I have used the B-12 with a full can to 12 gallons of gas and so after driving it for a good half hour at highway speeds you should start feeling a difference as to how much better the engine is responding, provided that your spark plugs are in good shape. If you are worried about using it in the engine oil, just don't do it! I know of a whole different approach when it comes down to treating the engine oil of gently getting the sludge/gunk out of the crankcase and I have done it four times over in the last 50 years of turning wrenches with no catastrophic results. One of 3 methods being using 1 quart of kerosene to 4 quarts oil used engine oil. Preheat the engine to operating temp but then shut it down. Adjust you oil level to the 4 quart mark of the oil dipstick by siphoning out how ever that you may need to, to get it to the 4 quart mark on the dipstick. the second index mark below the full line should be the target on most vehicles out there. Restart the engine but then have a stopwatch handy that is already set up for 2 minutes on the timer. Have your quart of kerosene also at the ready. Just as you have just restarted the engine, pour the kerosene into the oil filler tube and then start the 2 minute timer. After 2 minutes are up, shut down the engine and allow the engine oil sit and soak for about 20 minutes but then pull the drain plug and replace your oil filter so as to complete your oil change. Do this procedure at the 3,000 mile oil change interval. An even more gentler means of doing this sort of thing is to use Pennzoil Ultra Synthetic with a premium oil filter and change it after 2,000 miles, but then change the oil and filter. After 2 oil changes using the Pennzoil Ultra, such as at the 3,000 mile interval the second time go around, you should markedly see a big difference in the color of the engine oil, make no mistake about it. I know of at least 2 other methods of doing these sort of things over the years. @@mixter7x7

[@craigtegeler4677]

When it comes down to using the B-12 for soaking the piston rings and the cylinder walls, personally, I would jump at the chance of freeing the piston rings, knowing that my engine was already doomed to a nearly fatal fate. My engine for instance has over 180K and it has that very issue! If you are really smart about it, do you research ahead of time and view as many videos as possible. Stakes as they may be, if you know a little about your engine to start with, that is a big plus before trying anything at all! Take for instance, the amount of buildup and crusties that are in the oil filler passageway and the amount of crud inside the PCV valve hose and whether it is severe enough to get worried over. Also, the amount of crud inside the air intake plenum areas looking down towards the valves. AND how much carbon or how thick it is on top of the pistons as well. All of these things that I just mentioned can be a measuring tool by using a scope camera and taking time out to verify just how big of a problem it might be moving forward. If you don't have access to a bore scope camera, just pull those valve covers off and that could be a very good indicator as to whether to take the plunge using B-12 to help free up the piston rings. If there is mega sludge like hell won't have it, you still might decide one way or another. But yeah, do take the time out with an abundance of caution. @@mixter7x7

[@davidjayaseelan7655]

​@@craigtegeler4677⁰000

[@elihamou6902]

I wonder how you would do this on a boxer engine..glad it worked for you!

[@mstar501]

You need the piston update, oil scrape ring is modified... Also the PCV valve is updated together with an ECU update...

[@timbotimbo_Crypto]

Do you think it is import to leave the B12 in the oil or can you drain the oil and refill with fresh oil before starting?

[@ETMotorsports]

hey I leave the B12 in every time I do a soak and run the engine with it inside for 20-30 min...if you're worried you can run it on idle instead of driving around with it - on my Q5 I drove it pretty heavy on the hwy for 30 min before draining it. On the Q7 (not my car) I ran it on idle until the temperature came up and then replaced it. It depends on your level of comfort with the procedure but running B12 inside would help continue the carbon dissolving and cleaning of the motor...

[@derargentinier8879]

que bueno !!! que alegria !! gracias por la informacion !

[@harryoosterhof5308]

Thanks for the video. It will help all the VAG drivers, and maybe more. Derek Bieri uses the B12 and often diesel oil for more dinosaurus. So that`s allright... I think...right?

[@ETMotorsports]

Yeah the diesel oil generally contains more detergents which is why I used the Rotella T6 with my second cycle... the oil doesn't match VAG spec for the engine but should be ok every 4-5 oil changes

[@alejandrocabeza1919]

Hi there, fellow watcher from the GTA, a friend send me your video and I think I'm going to try it on my 2010 A5 2.0T. It just crossed 200K and it burns oil. Any recommendations on other treatments to try? I recently bought it and it runs a little rough when cold but otherwise no problems. Love the car. Currently running a full can of Sea Foam high mileage on a tank of gas 91 costco gas. Where can I buy the B12(and which one?) being here in Canada? and whats the size of the socket to turn the camshaft? Cheers, I will post my findings after I figure out how much oil its burning and do the treatments

[@ETMotorsports]

hey B12 wasn't available in Canada when I bought it - hard to order from the US and I picked up a box of 12 cans...it is available on Amazon...you could try SeaFoam first instead and see how it works - on this A4 the first soak with STP fixed the misfire so it's not a bad first step

[@alejandrocabeza1919]

ok thank you. I managed to get two cans of B12, my A5 B8 is just as bad as the Q5 you did on the second video. Would you mind giving some guidance on how to turn the crankshaft to align the pistons? I saw you using a socket set tool. I ordered a 24mm 12point socket but need to know where this bolt is...thanks@@ETMotorsports

[@ETMotorsports]

@@alejandrocabeza1919 the crank bolt is in the middle of your crank pulley... always turn clock-wise

[@alejandrocabeza1919]

Did you only use two bottles? I just started my soak on a 2010 A5 and I feel like two is not enough for 6hr intervals at 400-440ml each. I thought I heard you say a couple of bottles but now I feel like at least three would be ideal.

[@RockymountainRobert]

I have a 98 blazer 4.3 , it's burning oil and has 330k miles, I've used stp,seafoam, rislone, Lucas and a few others and still no luck, except the berrymans12, I'll try that and liquid moly for the last try,hope it works.

[@ETMotorsports]

Are you soaking the pistons or doing flushes?

[@marcoliuo8464]

Hello from Calabria, italy! I have a 3 cil 1.4 TDI seat ibiza 2004, 410.000 km now!!!!! Consumption oil is 2 L in 10.000 km, compression is ok, (30bar in all cilinder) turbo is ok (no leak) I'm sure piston ring is clogghed. Try your work.....🎉🎉🎉

[@ETMotorsports]

Hey - thanks for the note...1L per 5000km it's pretty good compared to the numbers we're dealing with :)

[@paulheinrich7645]

What is the long term results of the B-12 engine soak? It's been a year since you posted your video. Thanks.

[@ETMotorsports]

@paulheinrich7645 zero issues... I've sold this A4 but the Q5 is running without problems 1 yr after the soak... it's done close to 20k km after the soak

[@GAdavidh]

When manually cranking the engine, do you turn the crank Clockwise or Counter Clockwise

[@ETMotorsports]

Always always always clockwise... otherwise you're going against the chain tensioners... if you get stuck like I did you can carefully back up a bit but can't turn the engine that way for a long time

[@omarcruz5932]

Looking at your compression test, it seemed like the numbers weren't that bad before you performed this process...I wonder if the compression reading is pretty bad, this process might still help?

[@ETMotorsports]

Yeah the compression wasn't horrible and it didn't change much but I'm guessing that's because the compression rings were on and the oil ring was stuck...I imagine if a compression ring is stuck it'll show more improvement... doing this to a q5 this week which has one cylinder at 165 and the rest at 175 and 200 so we'll see if that helps

[@omarcruz5932]

@@ETMotorsports Thanks for taking the time to share all these amazing information...believe me when I say that you are not the only one who is dealing with this issue. I had already made the decision to replace the pistons but after watching you video I will try it and see what the results look like. I will keep you updated.

[@ETMotorsports]

@omarcruz5932 please do! This engine was undriveable until the soak so there's some hope

[@zeroxthree568]

@@ETMotorsports any update on those low compression Q5 cylinders?

[@ETMotorsports]

@@zeroxthree568finished the soak - just waiting to see the final consumption so I can post the video

[@samwh4775]

Hey, I did the piston soak in my A4 and the car it’s running noticeably better than before but it actually started consuming more oil, I also took the small camera inside the cylinders and cyl 1 and cyl 4 seem fine and dry, cyl 2 and cyl 3 are wet in what seems like oil so idk exactly what happened there, also there’s others things I noticed, idk if there’s a way I can send you pictures ? 😓

[@ETMotorsports]

Hey my email is in the channel description...I wouldn't worry too much about the initial "increase" in consumption - B12 will dissolve the build up but you can't really control what happens after that... it's very much possible that the rings sit themselves in a position that's worse off... but I'm saying don't worry because that's something a second soak could very much fix... Can you provide us with more details of how you did the procedure? Did you make any changes?

[@samwh4775]

@@ETMotorsportshey I couldn’t see the email on the description, I did the exact same procedure that you used in this video but with seafoam instead of B12, I guess I might give it a try again soon, it did seem to help with cyl 1 and 4 but I’m not sure what happened with cyl 2 and 3, spark plugs used to get wet wet in oil, my car has a catless downpipe and it smokes a little bit on deceleration, I thought it was because it’s catless but turns out it’s not and it might be related to this

[@Abdullahkhattab24]

Can i use liquy moly injectior cleaner for the soak?

[@ETMotorsports]

you should be able to...folks have also tried LiquiMoly engine flush pro...you can check the contents of each and compare - so far B12 seems to be the strongest but I've seen good improvement even with SeaFoam

[@johnandrews3568]

This is awesome. BTW, what rims in the back seat??

[@ETMotorsports]

Picked up a set of 18s for the GLander Duratracs :) time to get that truck dirty

[@bradbozarth3235]

I poured 2 bottles of the Berryman’s throughout a day and a half, then I poured some oil back into each cylinder to lubricate the rings the car seems to run a lot better already. It was consuming about half of its oil between 5k mile oil changes, I’ll check back in after some time I changed the oil today 110,200 miles.

[@carenthusiast6748]

how is it going man? also how much oil did you "sprinkle" onto the pistons?

[@bradbozarth3235]

@@carenthusiast6748 just enough to wet the rings

[@sti13]

I did the piston soak with berrymans a week ago..i did a 24 hour cycle with one full rotation of the crank every 6 hours. Put back the original plugs and they misfired like crazy. Installed new plugs and cleared the codes. Car is running good now, used to burn a quart every 500 kms, now at 250kms and oil level is still at max. I had the berrymans in the oil for 80kms and changed oil and filter, the oil that came out was super black. Fresh amsoil european 5W40 FS oil in it now and amsoil filter. Let see how long before the oil low warning comes back on.

[@sti13]

Just reached the 500 kms mark and still oil level at the max, surely the piston soak is working!

[@Machine_Brad]

I’m going to order what I need and give this a go before providing you with feedback. What size are those extensions you are using to equalise the cylinders and presumably use for the plugs? 🤦🏻‍♂️ Many thanks

[@ETMotorsports]

Hey check out ep2 and ep3 - I provide most of the info you need... you don't really need the extensions to be honest - it's not going to make a big deal and you will end up rotating the engine anyways

[@caseym3352]

Do you remove the fuel pump relay when starting the car to clear the cylinders?

[@ETMotorsports]

I didn't but you can do that for sure

[@lucaparenti9944]

I’ve copied your strategy with B12 on a 2.0 TFSI, results are unbelievable, oil consumption is pretty much zero after soaking procedure, still max oil after 1.500km on the highway, unbelievable…

[@ETMotorsports]

Great results!!

[@chrisguillen1495]

Foreal. Used the same method. But only 1 can and it worked real good. Oil came out jet black

[@jeffy1466]

Starting to do this on my 2012 q5. Not sure how to rotate the engine by hand though. Is that a necessary step?

[@ETMotorsports]

It helps... you need a size 24 socket and you reach in from underneath to turn the crank... check out ep2 and 3 - there's more info there

[@jeffy1466]

@@ETMotorsports I saw that you were able to reach down into the front of the motor there and turn it with a ratchet it looks like. I just can't see where that crank is to hook my socket on to. Is it below the serpentine belt?

[@seanholman5419]

I did the berrymans soak per instructions but used 3 cans over 48 hours. Before I crank the engine to flush out carbon before putting plugs back in and I tried to turn over crank one last time manually and now can’t get it to turn. I did use a bit more per cylinder than the first two cans in the last soak. I checked cylinders with dipstick and there is no fluid left. Will I damage anything trying to start engine without plugs since it won’t turn over by hand. Please advise!

[@ETMotorsports]

If it won't turn by hand don't crank it - figure out what's causing the issue

[@seanholman5419]

I didn’t think I should thank you. Would putting too much berrymans cause my issue? Before I put the last bit of fluid in it turned over easy every time.

[@seanholman5419]

Also it’ll turn to a certain point and stops

[@seanholman5419]

Success! I blew out the cylinders and got the crank loosened up turns perfectly with ease. It was just a big chunk of carbon I guess 👍

[@peterlazareski8856]

This is excellent, when cranking the car without the plugs installed did you pull out the fuel pump fuse to stop the injectors spraying fuel in the cylinder?

[@ETMotorsports]

@peterlazareski8856 I didn't but you definitely can

[@peterlazareski8856]

@@ETMotorsports Thanks, will be trying the Berrymans B12 on my A4 with the 2.0t ea888 gen3 engine currently burning about 1L every 2,000km. I’m hoping this will slow it down. Will post the results

[@fthisheat8600]

What’s up Eurotrash had my timing chain replaced now after a cold start my 2012 B8 shakes terribly at idle at a stop. Once it gets to operating temp goes back to normal but never had that issue prior to the timing chain replaced any idea as to why this is happening

[@ETMotorsports]

Eek - that doesn't sound right... have you contacted the shop that did the job? Do you know if they replaced the chain on the balance shafts? If they missed the balance shaft marks they might cause that?

[@fthisheat8600]

@@ETMotorsports Thanks for the reply. I did talk back with them they said it could be the vvt solenoid and just checked the invoice and no mention of balance shaft chain replaced. Forgot to mention loved the video very informative will have to try it when the time allows

[@ETMotorsports]

@fthisheat8600 hmm... that shouldn't cause vibration... if it's faulty it'll affect the angle adjustment and you'll get a code... have you scanned it? I suggest going back there for a follow up - if it didn't cause issues before it shouldn't cause issues after...

[@fthisheat8600]

@@ETMotorsports thanks you rock because they quoted $875 for that job will take it to another shop to get scanned. Will follow up when determined stay warm up there

[@psiturbo]

That is exactly what you need to tell the shop! I brought it for a timing chain job and now it runs like crap. *** On a side note, I always pay with credit card and verify the shop offers warranty. I have opened claims against them, give 'em hell and get my money back, with a juicy BBB report and bad feedback in Google reviews.

[@cameronwingate7477]

I’m glad the additives worked and the new set of spark plugs the Rotella was a great decision and have you changed your coil packs since you’ve owned the car and I would probably run the Berrymans in the fuel tank once a month until you get rid of the car

[@ETMotorsports]

yeah B12 in the fuel is a great idea...these things do get the injectors dirty so it doesn't hurt to run a can of cleaner through the fuel system...I generally replace the coil-packs when they go bad - there's not much point in replacing an item that's working correctly...in all honesty in 20+ years of working with coil-packs I must have had a grand total of 3 bad parts...

[@kfl611]

I've always used a little Marvel Mystery Oil in my fuel and in my crankcase oil. I also like (from Amazon) 'New BG 44K Platinum, EPR, MOA'. I think the bg products really clean out the sludge and gum from your engine and keep your engine clean. The Marvel seems to dissolve baked on carbon and keep things well lubed up and helps to you keep a clean engine too ! The Marvel also helps to lubricate your fuel pump. Rislone works nice too, to help decarbonize your engine.

[@ETMotorsports]

Lots of folks praise MMO...I have to add it to my toolbox

[@JesseRamos219]

What type of oil do you use after the stage 1 & stage 2 piston soak? Great video! I wish I had seen in 50K miles ago! lol Thanks

[@ETMotorsports]

In the A4 I used Rotella T6 for the first 1000km and then switched back to 5w-40 after that... the Rotella has a higher concentration of detergents so in theory it continues to clean after the soaking... in my Q5 I just went straight to 5w-40 after the piston soak and engine flush

[@RSAW73]

Great videos, but isn't Rotella T6 a 5W40 oil, too? If not, which grade of T6 were you using?

[@ETMotorsports]

@@RSAW73 yup you can get it in 5w40

[@kevinwonsetler3777]

What was the issue w oil pressure? I changed everything as well. Cam bridge, sensor, pump..

[@ETMotorsports]

@@kevinwonsetler3777 intake cam in the end - check the second video