How to fix oil consumption on VW/Audi/Porsche 3.0T engine?

In this video I perform a two stage piston soak on a 2017 Q7 with the Audi 3.0T engine. The vehicle was burning 1L of oil every 2-400km under regular driving so I performed a piston soak with Seafoam and B12 to free up the clogged piston rings.
While the Seafoam soak showed no improvement, the B-12 soak worked very well. The Q7 is no longer burning oil so this was a great success. A few important points to consider:
- Soak the pistons when they are at top dead center to ensure the whole crown of the piston is covered in liquid
- Three pairs of 2 cylinders are normally at TDC at the same time - 1-6, 2-4 and 3-5
- The process took 72hrs but can probably be shortened - that's 24hrs per pair of pistons x 3
- I used 50ml of B-12 per piston ever 12hrs. That means I used 100ml of B-12 per piston on 600ml for the whole engine during the second stage of the flush
- B-12 breaks A LOT of carbon from inside the motor. If the soak is performed at TDC, B-12 is also soaking the bottom of the valves and the injector tips
- All of the garbage that B-12 dissolved accumulates at the bottom side of the piston (remember the piston is at 45deg) so when the liquid goes through the rings, the carbon deposits just sit on top of the piston preventing it from turning - you must clean your cylinders with compressed air after the soak
WARNING!
Always turn the crank by hand multiple rotations before using the starter. This is very important. If you feel any resistance STOP immediately and make sure your cylinders are clear from any debris. If you use the starter YOU CAN CAUSE SERIOUS DAMAGE!!!
DISCLAIMER
This video provides general information and discussion on the topic of piston soaking an engine and reducing excessive oil consumption. If you choose to try this method on your engine you do so at your own risk. This video and the information included in it are not intended to serve as a substitute for a consultation with a professional mechanic. Under no circumstances will Eurotrash Motorsports be responsible or liable in any way for any content, including but not limited to, any errors or omissions in the content, or for any loss or damage of any kind incurred as a result of any content communicated in this video, whether by Eurotrash Motorsports or a third party.

[@anonymoususer3470]

Got a 2017 q7 from auction with 71k miles. I was stunned to see it going through a quart of oil per tank of fuel. I don't generally use any snake oil solutions to problems, but figured this might actually be worth a try. Did 1 container of b12 down into the pistons, let it sit overnight with a couple rotations of the crank via water pump pulley, sucked out whatever was left, then fired it up, drove just enough to warm it up, and drained the oil. The oil was very thin, so clearly some b12 slipped past the rings and diluted it, so good to not run it very long. Immediately replaced with fresh 0w40 mobile 1 and new filter, using the drain plug rather than extraction. It's now several weeks later and over 1000 miles, and the oil level has only dropped 1/8 of a quart, which is fantastic. A longer soak with b12 might do more, but I plan to just do oil changes often for a while. Really seems like the crec engine oil control rings are prone to clogging with carbon after 50-60k miles. So instant subscribe because what a great solution! That said, I would be hesitant to run b12 in the oil much at all, it seems really hard on plastics and there is a lot of plastic inside these engines. Oil baffles, timing chain tensioners and who knows what else. B12 is in stock at walmart very cheap too. Thanks so much for posting this solution, eurotrash. I would happily send you a tip for saving the day on this engine!

[@ETMotorsports]

Great results! Glad it worked

[@lauretiu]

if you check the forum for people with this car/engine(crec version) you will see a lot of people that had catastrophic failure while they were driving on the highway out of the blue. you sir might have unintentionally found out why a perfect running engine(with the oil consumption) might just have a catastrophic engine failure out of the blue with that deposit of carbon there. nevertheless sir you are a legend !!!

[@ETMotorsports]

I think that carbon is what's left after the B12 drains down...it dissolves all the garbage in the cylinder, which gets deposited on the lower side of the piston where the last B12 drains... the footage was really bad but with the camera you could clearly see the mound of dirt that was built

[@kdudutse]

@@ETMotorsports where from you sourcing the b12 ? i mean for a reasonable price it Canada ON

[@ETMotorsports]

@@kdudutse few stores online, I got my first order from Amazon, it's also available on ebay

[@stephenbraddy9925]

Very interesting thought ... 🤔

[@kevinmysliwczyk5459]

I just did a b12 piston soak 1 week ago before watching this video and my crank actually got stuck just like this and my tool was a little worn and stripped. So I just used the starter and it crushed/ blew out the carbon and even after that I tried and it got stuck again. So I soaked for another 6 hours and than cranked and started engine and car is running just fine engine is smooth and quieter than Ever. Ive only gone 150 miles so far but so far the oil is still fulll on dipstick so fingers crossed.

[@andrewmeegan]

I was waiting for this one Thank you!

[@valentindobchev6005]

Жив и здрав да си братле!

[@johnandrews3568]

Outstanding!

[@mostlypostie1]

Great work. I have done the full carbon clean on a 2013 B8.5 S4 with the 3.0T supercharged engine. Mine had heavy carbon buildup around the valves, but not so bad in the cylinders. That Q7 was bad! I do still burn some oil, so this is now on my list of things to do at some point. Cheers.

[@ETMotorsports]

Yeah the Q7 was carbon cleaned before we did the treatment as well

[@sebastianlorenzo4935]

Awesome content !!!

[@glennr9913]

It's great to hear that the B12 piston soak process is effective for the Audi V6 too. It is interesting that treating the pistons at TDC also soaks the valves. I recently did the B12 soak on a Tiguan 2.0 Instead of waiting 12 hours between B12 doses I just waited until the solution had leaked past the pistons, rotated the crank, and added more B12. After a few doses, I noticed one piston held the solution so I only gave it a 1/2 dose. Eventually, 2 cylinders held the solution. Hopefully, my A6 will not begin consuming oil. But if it does it's great to have such a cheap & simple cure. Thanks, 👍👍

[@ETMotorsports]

Great results

[@AdamOmylanowski-db9xn]

I tried this on my 2014 Audi S3 8V recently and so far so good! Have not went through any oil at all in the 250 miles I drove the car where I would have gone through about 3/4 of the dipstick in that time (it was getting worse and worse over the past few months the more I drove the car) So pretty safe to say this worked on my car too! I done the standard 24H 2 bottle B12 Chemtool piston soak method, drive the car and dump oil and carry out normal oil change. One thing I noticed was there was a sulfur smell which smelled like unburnt fuel was getting to the cat which made me think the cat might have been damaged. Thankfully that smell went away and the car drives normal. I noticed before my car would leave a lot of dark smoke when launching hard off a stop light for example but that is also gone following the soak! Thank you very much for sharing your knowledge on this issue this really is abolutely amazing! I think moving forward if I was to do this again even on a 4 cylinder engine it would be a good idea to do piston 1 and 4 and 2 and 3 separately and do them both at TDC. Uses less B12 and you get the added benefit of it cleaning the valves and injectors. I was also really lucky that I was able to purchase some B12 in Northern Ireland where I live since I know it is not available everywhere

[@ETMotorsports]

Great - glad this worked! I like your idea of doing the pistons at TDC as well...It makes all the sense in the world to take advantage of the soak and hit the valves and injector while you're at it

[@Ducatista189]

I did this on my 2018 Q7 3.0T shortly after watching your Q5 video. I also realized that I was not going to be able to cover the entire piston, and it would be tricky to make the relatively small amount of liquid last for all 6 cylinders without overfilling the crankcase. I was on a time crunch so I only did two pours. First was 6 hours, and second was 12 hours. I'm still driving it after that first oil change waiting for that oil reminder to come on. So far so good after 1500 miles. I was previously burning a quart of oil ever 2k miles. Time will tell.

[@aibarberguy3141]

How is it?

[@Ducatista189]

@@aibarberguy3141 I’ve surpassed 2500 miles since I did it. No reminder to add oil yet. Checked the dipstick(I installed one where the plug was). All good. Id say it has fixed it.

[@danricci6996]

Nooooooooo, I've been soooo looking forward for the spark plug drop so I can read the comments afterward , don't rob me of that, drop the plugs, drop the plugs, what did I do to you to deserve this ? 🤣🤣🤣. I really hope you'll get tens of thousands of views bc honestly you should. 👍👍

[@ETMotorsports]

hahahah...don't you worry - the plugs dropping is a staple Eurotrash procedure and this engine was not spared :) I am thinking of doing a 1000 drop test to see how much my gap changes Myth Busters style...

[@oneproudchump8457]

Lovely! 👍

[@ultra_sound.]

I've been driving Audi for some time now, and I used to have problems with oil consumption. meet a good mechanic years ago that believe the reason for the oil consumption is related to carbon build-up around the piston and rings. He suggested always using premium gas and oil changes every 5k using Motul or Liqui Moly oil. have been doing this, and I can say I have 0 issues with oil consumption.

[@ChristianLeeTri]

I have another 2017 Q7 that burns 1L every 750km or so if you want more practice (in Ottawa). I was actually going to ask if you wanted to try it, but figured you were done after the 2.0T. Fantastic video, BTW

[@ETMotorsports]

Haha half of Ottawa's Audis are just eating oil I guess :) I'm pretty busy for the next few months, but can always help if you decide to tackle it on your own.

[@ChristianLeeTri]

I may take you up on that! I was curious what your thoughts are about rolling one side onto ramps and doing one bank at a time, to alleviate the issue caused by the 90 deg V6?

[@ETMotorsports]

yeah I thought about that as well but unless you put the car at 45deg you can't make up for the tilt in the piston...honestly much easier to just take the extra time and do it... I thought a bit about your car and there are a few things that I want to try with the 3.0T so maybe we can make something work towards the end of the summer if you haven't fixed it yourself...can you ping me on whatsapp or facebook so I don't lose your contact?

[@timpresutto184]

my a4 is in Really good shape inside & out. so it's Def worth it

[@brendanj810]

another great video! question if you know. i know on the MQB platform short commutes cause faster intake carbon buildup than people with longer commutes. could the owner have a short commute constantly that might allow for more buildup? just a possible thought. so glad i found the channel keep up the great work and cant wait to see some vintage audi content

[@ETMotorsports]

thanks! Yeah I thought about that too but honestly the owner raked up 1200km in like 1 week so his commute is fairly decent...I spoke with him quite a bit trying to figure out what might cause all this mess but he is using the right oil and the right fuel so unless it was the previous owner that neglected the motor, I don't think it's a user issue...I`m going to try and get my hands on another 3.0T to poke around and see if I can spot the same problems...

[@user-po9ps8xt7f]

Have a 2012 q7 3.0t, only 80k miles, was burning 1 quart every 550 miles. Tried various engine flushes over the last few years, nothing helped. Did the berryman piston soak,so far 1200 miles and no movement on the dipstick. A few tips: this is a v6 so I jacked up one side of the car to get bank 1 as close to level as possible, added the berrymans and used a boroscope to be sure piston was completely covered. checked and topped off the cylinders over a 6 or 8 hour period, some cylinders leaked down quickly. ended up using 3 cans just on bank one. These are big pistons and even jacked up it is still not level and needs a lot of fluid to submerge the pistons. I would recommend using a boroscope during the top-up process to insure that the piston remains fully submerged. I only did one side of the engine, in 5000 miles I will do the same with bank 2. but just doing bank 1 has had real results. (cylinder 6 had an black plug so thats why I started with bank1)

[@ETMotorsports]

3 cans on 3 pistons is quite a lot of fluid... you can't run the engine with that amount...I think you can get away with a lot less - 50ml/ cylinder every 12hrs or 2 cans total for the 6 cylinders... either way it's worked out great - happy to hear the engine is back to reasonable amounts

[@alemurillo03]

2016 Q5 here... Did the B12 soak 3 weeks ago. Now after 500kms (300miles) the level hasn't moved. Before that, it was almost a 1/4 of oil in less than 1000kms.

[@ETMotorsports]

great results!

[@GOOD__DUDE]

I couldn't thank you enough for making this video! I did the piston soak on my 2018 Q7 this weekend and it seemed to go just as you described (now I just need to drive and see it fixed the consumption). Engine does seem to be running better. The process was pretty hard on this car because the spark plug holes are very deep. I would advise to put 2 oz (~50ml) of B12 in ALL cylinder and turn the crank until water starts to come out 2 of the spark plug holes (indicating they are at TDC). Add 2 more oz of B12 into the 4 cylinders that arent at TCD. Then let everything soak for 6-8 hours. This way you can have all cylinders soaking at once. Then turn crank and repeat this process but put a different 2 cylinders at TDC and let soak for 6-8 hours, and then repeat for last 2 cylinders at TDC.... Just my thoughts

[@ETMotorsports]

Awesome - looking forward to your results... the Q7 from the video is now close to 3k without loss of oil so drastic change from the start... I like your idea about watching the liquid come out to know your at TDC...If you don't have extensions or a scope to see when the pistons come up that's just as good...I think if you're soaking all at the same time though, you may end up using too much liquid? How many cans did you go through? Also did you have any issues with build up of carbon like I did? A few viewers have noted the same thing - as the liquid drains through the pistons, garbage builds up at the lowest point on the piston and prevents you from turning the crank

[@GOOD__DUDE]

@@ETMotorsports I ended up adding 3 cans (45oz) of B12 by the time I was finished. So before I started the car I loosened the oil plug and drained 32oz of oil to be safe. The car smoked for the entire 20 minutes that I ran it with the B12 in it before changing the oil. I had very minor issues of carbon build up and the crank was hard to turn and I had to blow it out like you did. It was a little scary, but I don't think I had it as bad as you did. My Q7 has 74k miles and was consuming about 1 liter every 3k miles after a PCV change. So I figured I would do this procedure before the issue got really bad. Shame on Audi for kicking this issue down the road they way they do and telling customers that 1 Liter burning per 1000 miles is to spec.

[@TheChadls]

The deep plugs is the reason the seals do this

[@andrewmccauley2807]

Hi Mate, love your videos, just wondering what software you use to make your Thumbnails as they fonts really standout nice? Thanks

[@ETMotorsports]

Thanks! Lol PowerPoint :)

[@hgas9631]

Very interesting point talking about the carbon on the pistons and interference not allowing the engine to rotate fully by hand. I’ve done the b12 soak close to a dozen times on both the 2.0T and 3.0T CREC. Has worked great. However on the first 2.0T vehicle I did this soak on everything went smoothly. Rotating the engine by hand during the soak. Drove great for 500 miles with no consumption. After sitting for a couple weeks I go to start it and it immediately is running rough flashing CEL and dies after 30 seconds of running. At that point I can only assume the engine has seized up. Long story short after poking around and not wanting to do more damage I start pulling things apart. Cant find any issues. Pull the head off only to find carbon buildup on top of the piston which was my interference hitting the bottom of the head, and the reason the engine stopped running. The fact that the car ran perfectly for 500 miles makes me wonder if this was just a coincidence and maybe the carbon actually broke off from the backside of intake valve and got sucked in because I would think any carbon that accumulated during the soak surely would have burnt off immediately upon startup and I never had any resistance rotating by hand when doing the soak.

[@ETMotorsports]

yeah that's a bit suspect...you wouldn't have carbon from the treatment after 500miles...so you had actual physical damage because the piston hit the valves? that sucks :(

[@hgas9631]

@@ETMotorsports there was no physical damage. Once the head was off you could see carbon on top of the piston which had been compressed and preventing the engine from fully rotating just like what you experienced by hand. I would have never expected such a small amount of buildup to be able to stop the engine in its tracks like that. We’re talking less than an eight inch of carbon on just a small portion of the piston top. In hindsight I could have just pulled the spark plug, maybe put in a little solvent to soften it up, then blow it out with air

[@raljix1566]

I need to try this - My B8 S4 has a real oil consumption problem

[@SrZomBros]

Hola de nuevo amigo! Otro Audi a5 1.8 TFSI arreglado gracias a este proceso!! Este consumía 1l en torno a los 800km - 1000km. Actualmente lleva 750km recorridos sin consumo aparente. Quiero aclarar unos detalles por si son útiles para los demás. No pude usar B12, y en su lugar usé ATF+4 mezclado con acetona pura en partes iguales. El resultado fue increible, disolvió el carbón muy fácilmente. En este caso, el arranque fue MUY DIFICIL, pero finalmente todo resulto ser un exito.

[@ETMotorsports]

Hey - great results! ATF+4 mixed with equal parts pure acetone - interesting combination...worth a try!

[@SrZomBros]

@@ETMotorsports Si, quizá en un motor con muchisimo carbón sea mejor usar el B12, pero en este caso funcionó a la perfección el ATF+4 con acetona.

[@tedjohnson64]

@SrZombros I'm curious, do you know why the starting was so difficult? The spark plugs were out during the soaking, so it's not like they were coated with B-12. The hard starting (which we've seen in a few of the prior @ETMotorsports vids on this topic) is the part that has me the most concerned. Thanks in advance.

[@SrZomBros]

@@tedjohnson64 Cuesta arrancar debido a que el motor pierde toda la compresión al no haber ninguna película de aceite en las camisas de los pistones. También, la presencia del solvente en la cámara de combustión hace que el motor se vuelva loco. En cuanto el solvente empiece a quemarse y llegue el aceite a los segmentos para recuperar la compresión, tu motor funcionará con normalidad. PD: añadiendo una cucharada de aceite antes de arrancar el motor, previene daños en el primer arranque y hace que sea más fácil.

[@fredsTDI]

Hey eurotrash motorsports I've never seen any follow-up video of the t1N sprinter with the hybrid turbo you were putting together. Did you ever get that done and mapped?

[@jd-ri6qy]

So I have a 2010 Audi S4 that was burning quart of oil every 500 miles. I did this exact procedure, and so far it's been 500 miles and not a drop or oil has burned. I did have lower compression in cylinder 2 and I noticed that was the only one that had oil in top of the piston. I feel like that's where the oil was going. Car runs GREAT. I think this is the secret to Audi burning issues.

[@ETMotorsports]

Nice results!

[@ETMotorsports]

Did you check the compression after the treatment? Did it improve?

[@jd-ri6qy]

@@ETMotorsports I havent yet, but I will soon and will update you right here 👍🏻

[@Ivan-hx7cc]

​@@jd-ri6qyupdate bro?

[@hairynames9704]

b12 strikes again!

[@samuelcritton8012]

What bit on your socket wrench are you using to turn the crank pulley? Thanks for this great video!

[@ETMotorsports]

Ugh that's an annoying one - the v6 needs a special tool... Google T40058 crankshaft pulley tool

[@samuelcritton8012]

@@ETMotorsports Is there any reason not to turn there motor using the supercharger pulley up top?

[@ETMotorsports]

yeah you can only turn the motor from the crank pulley...anything else will put too much strain on the accessory pulleys and they're not designed to do that

[@TheJimmyThreeSticks]

I'm in the middle of doing my wife's car right now. I'm on my last two cylinders. One soak in and it won't turn past top dead center. Even after blowing tons of chunks out. Thinking the second soak will help. One thing I wish I would have done is made sure to only blow cylinders out while the valves were closed. It's possible I could blow something into the intake.

[@ETMotorsports]

@TheJimmyThreeSticks I wouldn't worry about the intake too much...as you saw most of this is in dust form... even if it goes through it'll just burn out...

[@MichaelCarreras]

Hey, had an idea to share with you on soaking pistons in the V config for the future. I was think how to get the whole piston soaked, and I thought, well, why not use an old compression gauge hose, or leak down hose. Anyway, just thought I would share that thought. Catch ya later, and thanks again for the vids, Subbed.

[@ETMotorsports]

@MichaelCarreras good idea... I thought of that and actually tried it too but you can't soak all at the pistons at the same time and when you put pressure in, the piston actually moves down... the best thing so far is to soak at TDC two at a time... that way you clean the piston and the top of the chamber

[@MichaelCarreras]

@@ETMotorsports Right, but I wasn't thinking of applying any pressure, just using a hose to raise the available height. So if we took a couple of old compression gauge hoses and cut the tops off, kind of thing. That would allow us to fill the cylinder up until the first open valve, and if we actually set the cylinders so that the valves were in the compression stroke(closed position) we could theoretically easily cover the entire top of the piston with less b-12. Any hoot, it was just a thought. Love what you are doing !! Thanks for the reply!!

[@Pwnulolumad]

@@MichaelCarreras same concept as riser tubes in irrigation systems. the old hose just makes the cylinder 'taller' and the liquid can sit about the factory hole opening

[@MichaelCarreras]

@@Pwnulolumad Yea! What he said!! :) Thanks!

[@johnmack2327]

I hope this works on my q7

[@TheRumpleThump]

When do you blow the dry carbon out of the piston? After the first soak and before rotating the crank for the second soak?

[@ETMotorsports]

I would do both - it can't hurt...

[@Chuck84]

2017 q7 here. 65k miles. Burning 1L/3,500 miles. Not that bad. But.. Does it hurt to do the soak before it gets actually bad? Any reason to wait until it’s in the range of sub 1k/L ?

[@ETMotorsports]

hmm...my Touareg was burning 1L/2000km and I did a soak with Seafoam, which actually pushed me past 1L/6000km...if you're not consuming that much, there's a good chance the issue has not gotten bad enough to require B-12. If you're comfortable with the motor, I would do a soak with Seafoam or something similar at your next oil change just to see if there is any improvement and if there is you can keep doing it every say 5 oil changes just to keep things moving freely and perhaps avoid the big issues altogether

[@gianfrancoa]

It will be interested to know what was the oil change interval on this car

[@ETMotorsports]

The owner has had it since 130k... he said the issues started around 150k and he thinks it was aligned with a change in oil manufacturer but I don't see how that would cause the mess inside

[@BreakingCLY]

Hey I'm in Canada and getting B12 is crazy expensive, where are you buying the cans from? Also I'm gonna try it on an infiniti G35 with a 60 degree V6 so it Should be even easier theoretically speaking. Do you recommend I vacuum the cylinders out before every crank rotation for the 6 hour intervals to get rid of any gunk built up?

[@ETMotorsports]

ugh yeah B12 is a pain...I ordered a box from Amazon and it was reasonable the first time around. The owner of the Q7 got a box from a different online retailer - I`ll check with him to see what site he used. The pile of carbon you saw in the video was basically what B12 dissolved from the top of the cylinder, the valves and the crown of the head. As the B12 drained through the rings, all the garbage was collected at the bottom of the piston so I guess to answer your question it depends on how much dirt gets dissolved and accumulated on the cylinder. In any case - blowing crap out of the cylinders is a good thing - just make sure you're not blowing out B12 that's still sitting inside...if the crank is rotating ok, wait until the treatment is done and then clear everything up

[@BreakingCLY]

@@ETMotorsports Yeah it's ridiculously priced here. I just wanna play it safe and remove anything that's remaining in the Cylinders especially because of the high compression ratio of the engine, I'm worried upon starting it up after the treatment some gunk built up that wasn't removed might cause damage but who knows...Also how cruicial is leaving the b12 in the oil to idle is? My plan is to drain the old oil right after and put fresh oil in there before starting the engine? Thanks for your response

[@tedjohnson64]

@@BreakingCLY Would love to see @EMotorsports reply to your q re: immediately changing the oil rather than starting the engine with the B12 in the crankcase. In the meantime, there's one comment (in one of these vid series, I forget where) where the commenter did (almost) what you're suggesting, and got great results. He said he removed the starter relay, cranked the engine a bit, then changed the oil. And got great results (essentially zero oil consumption). Even with that scenario, it would seem there is perhaps an element of risk: the B12 thinned oil might cause excessive wear on the crank or rod bearings. Changing the oil immediately (and not even cranking w/a removed starter relay) would seem to eliminate that bearing hazard.

[@BreakingCLY]

@tedjohnson64 That's what I was thinking, it wouldn't hurt to just soak the pistons, dissolve the carbon, drain it right away. I really don't see how taking the risk of the oil thinning and running the engine with a straight solvent could be worth it.

[@tiesto181178]

Hi, searching for Berrymen B12 and do see 0116 and 117. Which one schould I buy? Thanks in advance.

[@ETMotorsports]

116 is liquid, 117 is aerosol... you need 116... looks like 121 is the same thing but bigger quantity

[@TheAvgCanadian]

My 2017 Q7 is at 136,000 kms and doesnt burn oil. Should I be worried about carbon buildup on the valves? Should this soak be done as preventative maintenance?

[@ETMotorsports]

The owner noticed the consumption at 150k... honestly if you're using the correct oil etc. there's little you can do to control this... if it's not burning oil I wouldn't worry about doing this

[@Pwnulolumad]

would it have been 'safer' to drain the oil and replace with recommended instead of running it with the barrymans mixed in the oil ?

[@ETMotorsports]

@Pwnulolumad yup... for sure it's safer to not run B12 inside

[@mohammedmerzougui1671]

Hello I just did b12 at 2008 Camry after that I did new engine oil valvolin restore and protect I'm waiting result

[@ETMotorsports]

Good luck!

[@sebastianlorenzo4935]

I was sooo scared to do this on my wife’s A6 3.0t. Need to convince her to park the car for a couple of days to get this done. 😆

[@ETMotorsports]

Haha it's not hard but the angle of the pistons creates a few issues... how bad is the consumption? Just do it at the next oil change all you don't waste your oil and filter

[@sebastianlorenzo4935]

@@ETMotorsports 1qt 1500 - 2k miles not km. 😆

[@sebastianlorenzo4935]

@@ETMotorsports I use fcpeuro every oil change has been free after the first one. Three years now. Lifetime. Love fcp euro.

[@ETMotorsports]

@sebastianlorenzo4935 oh man that's nothing :) you lucky man

[@mohammedmerzougui1671]

What do you think about new engine oil valvolin restore and protect

[@ETMotorsports]

Oil and additives alone won't fix the ring issues

[@denistrendafilov770]

This engine according to the car year (2017) is most likely the "CREC" engine , which has a harder cylinder walls than the previous engine , the previous ones ( I think up to 2014 year) have a soft cylinder walls made by I believe "nikasil" , which means that any one who does this process has to be very careful during it and clean very very very well the cylinders before crancking , otherwise you risk of damaging/scratching the cylinder walls which will lead to even bigger oil consumption and the fix will be a new engine block or replacing the cylinder walls. This means that it will be very important to blow out the carbon fallen in to the cylinders or maybe even vacuum them somehow , just make sure the cylinders are clean before cranking the engine. Mine is the older model (2013) and I think about testing that merhod with the B12 , my car consumes oil and I believe its from the piston rings but I know that my valve seals are also leaking and it also consumes from them (could be a carbon build up on the valves which means that the problem might not be the valve seals and the B12 might help with this as well. Currently I`m driving with 5w50 racing oil (Revanoil) which is a very high quiality oil and after the 4k km mark I have added about 1,5l of oil , once I do the soak will update how it went. Hopefully this will go well and even save me the valve seals replacemnt since the valve issue might be a carbon build up on the valves which helps the oil to go throug the valves.

[@ETMotorsports]

hey great points...I was a bit worried about the cylinder walls but in my research I couldn't find any indication that B12 can cause any damage...the company clearly says on their website that it will not react with any metals but your point about the debris is very valid! I know of multiple people that have done the treatment on their 3.0Ts but I couldn't confirm which generations. Are you absolutely positive the valve seals are leaking? Do you see big puffs of blue smoke on start-up? the first time I did a soak on my A4, I did the seals first (loooots of work) hoping that was the problem and it changed nothing. The 3.0T, just like any other direct injected motor, is prone to carbon build-up on the top of the valves, which unfortunately the soak won't help with. However, you can see from the crappy scope footage, the engine had a TON of build-up on the head crown and the bottom of the valves too, which as long as you soak at TDC, will get at least partially cleaned up...your consumption is still within spec so you've got lots of time to play with this

[@denistrendafilov770]

@@ETMotorsports not 100% sure if I have a seals leaking , since when I start the car I don`t see smoke , not blue at least , but when I go downhill for a longer period of time without any throttle when I press the throttle it smokes a bit , I don`t see it inside the car but a friend of mine was driving behind me and told me that whenever I give some gas the car was smoking for a bit and then stopps. Also I did one test , I was doing a 3rd and 4th gear pull (manual mode) and was unable to see any smoke during the pull , but when I left the throttle and left the car rpms to drop on its own from like 5,5k to 4,5k rpm , then shifted down to 3rd gear and again waited for the rpm to drop on its own , then pressed on the throttle and a big cloud of smoke came out the car just for short amount of time , but was a big one. This usually means that the valve seals are not good. And for the B12 , I don`t think that it can cause damage to the piston walls on its own , but the big chung which can drop like in your case happened , those chunks can damage/scratch the piston wall , so before crancking is probably best to clean the pistons camera using air compressor or any type of vacuum cleaner to get rid of the big chunks of carbond build up which dropps in the cylinders after the B12 treatment. This can happens easier on the previous generation V6 , the one before the "CREC" , since as I mentioned, there the cylinder walls are covered with a softer material and can be scratched way easier. I spoke with a mecahing for the carbon build up on top of the valves and he advised me that the carbon cleaning machines and sprays which are used are not efficient and the best way to clean them up is by removing the suprecharger , then remove the intake flaps under the supercharger toghether with the fuel lines , then you should be able to see the valves and scratch the build up carbon ,then vacuum the carbon build up out , otherwise they can drop in the cylinders and scratch the walls. I will do the soaking with B12 , I have already ordered 3 cans but will have to wait for a moth of shippement since I`m located in EU. Then will update back what happened and if it worked for me. I was just about to try the liqui moly engine flush pro-line but after seeing what happened with the seafoam , I decided to go straight to the B12 solution , hopefully this will stop the oil burning for me too.

[@ETMotorsports]

yeah agreed - seafoam worked on my Touareg an A4 but it was just too weak for the crap that the 3.0T had built up...also agree with your mechanic - the valve build up is usually cleaned from the top "mechanically" - you can't really spray anything in there that will be effective... that said, since you're doing the treatment, it may be worth it to try something...if you're not in a rush, soak one piston at a time, just after TDC on the intake stroke where the valves open up....that way you can soak the piston and the tops of the valves at the same time...I`m not sure how much liquid you`ll need in this scenario (definitely more than 50ml) but shouldn't be too much - they open pretty quickly...might be worth picking up a scope from amazon for this service - you can get a decent one for $100 or so to at least keep an eye on the cylinders as you're doing the treatment...the garbage that accumulates seems to be more "dusty" - I know it looks like a big piece of hard carbon in the video but it falls apart pretty easily so should not cause any damage to the walls

[@stephenbraddy9925]

Excellent video, thanks for making it! You got my imagination going. A few ideas (maybe not good): 1) I realize TDC is good for piston coverage on this 90-degree engine, but I wonder if it is actually letting some of the treatment flow out of the exhaust valves? I wonder if this is why there was so much smoke. Maybe there is an ideal cylinder location/stroke? Perhaps just before BDC on the power stroke? All valves closed and hopefully the "tallest" edge of the piston is below all valves? Perhaps we could calculate the precise amount of fluid to use in this situation. Just trying to think of ways to further formalize your process for this engine. I am not an expert, so maybe my ideas are dumb. You got good results already! 2) I wonder if you have inadvertently discovered a good DIY process for cleaning the (always dirty) intake valves? I wonder if some variation of your process could be used to target the intake valves. Perhaps intentionally orient the cylinder somewhere after TDC on the intake stroke? Or maybe people are already doing this and I'm just oblivious.

[@ETMotorsports]

hey - both great ideas...the smoke on startup is normal - I saw it on all 3 of my other cars...the B12 gets everywhere so until it burns out it smokes like crazy... There's definitely a more scientific way of doing this but it would require an engine on the stand here to play with and experiment and the 3.0T isn't very common so I haven't been able to find one. Yeah carbon buildup on the valves is a big issue - I like your idea about doing this on the intake stroke - pretty much need to find the earliest both intake valves are open with the piston at highest position and then add the liquid. That way it will coat the piston and valves at the same time...going down to BDC though wouldn't work because you'd have to fill the entire cylinder with solution - you want the least amount of volume possible with the valves open...This can be applied to the 2.0T as well - same issues with valve carbonization...

[@stephenbraddy9925]

@@ETMotorsports I was thinking about BDC specifically for piston ring treatment only, to keep the valves completely out of the picture ... ensure we don't lose any B12 through the valves. But maybe this isn't an issue. Do you suspect that you lost B12 through the exhaust valves when you switched over to using TDC only? Thanks again for making this video!

[@pearl04tl]

I think b12 going out the exhaust valve might be a good thing. I've seen some recent cases of people who neglect the oil consumption issues on the CREC motors and they end up with a burned valve. The b12 may cleanup the valve seat and promote a better valve seal.

[@stephenbraddy9925]

@@pearl04tl The issue I'm worried about is those cases where the treatment drained out of the cylinder. If it drains out then we aren't treating the rings as good as we could for 24 hours. When that happened in the video my mind went to the valves, which is why I started thinking about how to remove the valves from the picture entirely (when targeting the rings). Just a thought.

[@ETMotorsports]

you want the liquid to drain out through the rings - if it's not draining out, you're not treating them...as it's draining down, the liquid is penetrating through the rings and going everywhere (hopefully) to soften up the carbon and free them up...

[@ifran77]

Dude I feel like I want the lottery a little lol, I have the same exact Q7 and I think I'm running into the situation burning about a quart every thousand miles

[@ETMotorsports]

give it a try!

[@olivierc.8420]

Hey have you seen that valvaline came out with a restore and protec engine oil. They claim it breaks down the carbon on the rings after four oil changes.

[@ETMotorsports]

hmmm worth a try I guess - but that's anywhere between 20 and 40k+ kms if you're doing 5k+ oil changes...not sure anybody wants to wait that long to find out if it's effective

[@olivierc.8420]

@@ETMotorsports I agree. Would be good for the low millage cars for preventive maintenance.

[@ecerce2151]

Hello mister, Je vous fais part de mon experience où j'ai fait un piston soak avec un engine flush Proline Liqui Moly pendant 48h. J'avais pas de compression sur le cylindre 3 et une consommation d'huile d'un litre/500kms.(Audi b8 de 2010 2.0 tfsi avec 105000 kms. Resultat pas d'amelioration,le moteur tourne toujours sur 3 cylindres. Dommage pour moi. En plus en Europe on ne trouve pas de B12. Peut etre que je devrais essayer avec un nettoyant injecteurs?

[@ETMotorsports]

Quand vous dites que vous n'aviez pas de compression sur un cylindre, quelle est la valeur réelle ? Peut-être avez-vous des dommages plus graves et que ce ne sont pas les segments de piston qui sont en cause ? Malheureusement, le B12 n'est pas disponible en Europe, mais vous pouvez peut-être le commander en ligne sur ebay. Je m'efforce d'essayer d'expédier de la B12 depuis le Canada, car de nombreuses personnes en Europe en demandent.

[@SrZomBros]

Pruebe con ATF+4 mezclado con acetona en partes iguales. Me funcionó con grandes resultados.

[@LeoAudiVW]

I have heard the 3.0T engine oil consumption can be caused by faulty PCV system (oil vapour separator) and most shops will replace that before suggesting a rebuild. Did anyone mention that to this Q7 owner? It may be the root cause of the carbon buildup on the pistons/rings.

[@ETMotorsports]

The PCV was tested before I got the car... it also had a valve carbon cleaning... the PCV is a common problem but it doesn't account for the amount of oil we're talking about..

[@AlbeyFPV]

Odd one but why not just jack the car up on one side only and soak the entire bank per side at a better angle ? Or not worth the hassel ?

[@ETMotorsports]

I did think about that - but the pistons are at 45 deg...there's no way I can have the car up at 45 deg and be able to work on it...but doing the pistons at TDC adds the benefit of soaking the valves, injector tip and the head crown so although it takes a bit longer, it's a much better way to do it

[@Matevmmm]

When need to add b12 to the piston I mean when the piston 1 and 6 are up or down for example

[@ETMotorsports]

You add the liquid when the pistons are at the top to minimize the amount of liquid and cover the whole piston

[@Matevmmm]

Thank you for the information, I did engine flush, changed the oil from Castrol edge to liquid Molly and added ceratek engine protector so we will see what will happens , did it a week ago if there is not changes will do the piston soak

[@Matevmmm]

How you find when piston 1and 6 for example are up may put some extensions in the spark hold and see when is going up or different method ?

[@Matevmmm]

I did engine flush with liquid Molly flush and increase my oil burning from 1000 to 700 km😢

[@timpresutto184]

I've seen ur other vids👍. I Need to do my 09 a4.85,000 mi .I'm scared. Really wish I could talk to you for even 1min? couple questions

[@ETMotorsports]

My contact info is on the channel description or the Facebook page

[@GAdavidh]

Could you upload a post for the location and how to crank the engine, Audi A4

[@ETMotorsports]

You mean for the crank pulley? You can see it in the video - will need a special tool for the v6

[@ackktarus]

@@ETMotorsports Any info on the tool required? I also wished I still lived in Ottawa to pick your brain locally

[@GAdavidh]

@@ETMotorsports The 24MM socket will work for the 2014 Audi A4 correct?

[@samuelcritton8012]

@@ackktarus same question

[@CharlesMasone-gz8bm]

When you blew the carbon out of that cylinder I hope you made sure the valves were closed. I noticed the one you could see was open

[@ETMotorsports]

good point - the two clips were from different cylinders and different times so yes the valves were closed but that's definitely something to pay attention to....

[@MaximusCampos]

Good afternoon friend. First of all, thanks for the tips, it helps me a lot. I'm going to do this procedure with B-12 on an Audi A3 Sportback 8P 2.0 tfsi 2007. The car has 170,000km on it. The correct option is 50ml per piston in pms, that is, 100ml for pistons 1 and 4 and wait 12 hours to turn the crankshaft. Then add another 100ml and wait another 12 hours. After 24 hours, repeat this process on cylinders 2 and 3. After 48 hours, I will have used 400ml of B-12. I bought 2 bottles of B-12. Can I repeat this process until I reach 888ml from 2 bottles of B-12? Do I need to clean with compressed air at the end of each 12-hour immersion or can I turn the crankshaft to continue the procedure without cleaning? Is cleaning with compressed air only done after the entire procedure and before starting the car normally? My last question is regarding engine oil. After finishing the procedure, can I change the oil before starting the car or do I start it first with the old contaminated oil to change it at the right temperature? Thank you very much for your attention and help! Success to the channel!

[@ETMotorsports]

Hey for the 4cyl 2.0T you should watch the other 3 videos - I've answered all the questions there... on the 4 cyl you can soak all 4 pistons at the same time, 100ml per piston every 12 hrs... use both cans...I run the engine with the B12 inside for about 30 min to do a complete clean up but if you're worried you can change the oil before that

[@MaximusCampos]

@@ETMotorsports I did watch the videos, I always follow your work. I really asked to confirm and so that I don't do anything wrong. I'm going to choose to do all 4 cylinders at once and start the car before changing the oil to complete the cleaning. Thanks again friend.

[@timpresutto184]

pretty much all my Questions too...👍 I cant wait to do mine.🙏Good Luck to you also. this guy is Great!!! Very Knowledgeable

[@MaximusCampos]

@@timpresutto184 Hello, friend, good morning. I hope these tips help you too. In the end, everything will be fine.

[@LobbanVlogs]

So can we get an update video from the Owner being that it has been a month since this video was posted?

[@ETMotorsports]

Doubt the owner will post a video but he did send me an update a few days ago - the vehicle is at 4800km and 80% oil... he's going in for the first oil change

[@samuelcritton8012]

What would one do if they were unable to crank the motor after starting the soaking process? Again, many thanks for your guidance.

[@ETMotorsports]

Hmm... if you can't turn the motor then you can't take advantage of hr pistons at TDC... on the V6 you may have a piston that's really low so you'll either waste a bunch of solution or not be able to soak the whole piston... I'd say it's pretty key to turn the crank

[@samuelcritton8012]

@@ETMotorsports I’ve been able to get all the pistons to TDC and soak them, but the engine gets stuck after several cranks using the crank pulley (I ordered the special bit). I also used compressed air like you did in your video. Any other suggestions? I’m kind of stuck. Thank you again, Sam.

[@ETMotorsports]

ah - I understand now...I`m guessing you don't have a scope to see what's going on inside? so the engine turns well until you get to a certain point and then stops like I showed in the video? can you back in up counterclockwise a few degrees? The piston that's at TDC when it gets stuck is the one causing your problem - you can focus on it... if you've already blown air in, I`m guessing a bunch of crap came out? Another viewer was in the same situation and hit it with the starter, which broke up all the crap that was inside and blew it out. It's a bit of a risky move but if you've tried everything else that may be your best bet. I would keep working on it though - back up the engine a bit, blow in more air, maybe pour some diesel down and keep going back and forth. The crap builds up on the bottom of the piston where the liquid goes through so unless you clear it up it will keep getting stuck. Fortunately from what I saw on the scope, it's very brittle because it's just dissolved carbon dust so you should eventually be able to clean it

[@samuelcritton8012]

@@ETMotorsports I can turn the motor only a small amount clockwise or counter clockwise before something binds. By small amount, I mean 3-4 turns using my socket wrench. I ordered an inexpensive scope and checked inside each cylinder this morning and I can't see anything obvious that would be preventing things to move freely. I am soaking cylinders 1 and 6 again as they are the two that are highest up in the head. I am not sure what to do next.

[@samuelcritton8012]

Ok, here’s my update. I took another look with the scope and identified some areas where larger chunks of carbon had been loosened but left on the cylinder walls. I performed a soak several more times on the worst of the cylinders and kept turning the crank every couple of hours. Eventually (a couple of days of doing this) the engine began to crank freely and fully. I reassembled and started the motor. It took a minute or so to get the engine to fire and it ran rough and blew out smoke for another minute or so before settling down to normal. I let it idle for 15 minutes and revved the motor to 3500-4000rpm a few times during the idle process. I then drained the oil (black color even though the oil was nearly new-800 miles) and replaced with Rotella 5/40 oil as recommended in your tutorial. I’ve reset the trip odometer and will report back with my results. Again, thank you for your patience, assistance and guidance along the way.

[@Matevmmm]

Hello guys, do I need to lift the car on jack When turning the crank?

[@ETMotorsports]

It'll be easier to access the crank pulley if the car is up but not impossible... you could probably access from the top - depends on what car it is

[@Matevmmm]

@@ETMotorsports which direction need to turn the crank from the video showing clock direction

[@tedjohnson64]

​@@ETMotorsports and @Matevmmm Re: "It'll be easier to access the crank pulley if the car is up but not impossible... you could probably access from the top - depends on what car it is", I was actually able to do it from the top (mk6 2104 GTI, 2nd gen EA888), but it very much an exercise in geometry. I saw someone do it on a KZbin vid first, otherwise I would never have believed it to be possible. The video is FCP Euro, "Carbon Cleaning - How to Scrape and Walnut Blast your Intake Valves - MK7 VW GTI), at the 14:30 mark. He breezes right past this step (and in fact speeds up the video), so I had to replay it at 1/4 speed to see how he did it, as I couldn't manage to get my socket in place when I tried it. It took a 24" ratchet, and a 24mm normal length socket. An extended socket is too long, and a shallow socket doesn't reach far enough inboard to reach the crank pulley bolt. There was like 1/2mm of clearance to maneuver the socket+ratchet into position. Furthermore the passenger-side motor mount greatly reduced the swing arc of the ratchet, to the extent that I was only able to get 1 click of travel. But it worked! Here's a direct link to that FCP Euro, indexed to start at 14:30: kzbin.info/www/bejne/hX6TfmWYhrJgl8k

[@meaculpamishegas]

Before getting anything, always research the SDS and learn a little about the chemical’s effects. I think all that smoke is evidence that treatment was too harsh. For a vehicle as expensive and finicky as that, you really shouldn’t use anything with acetone. Berryman’s is cheap and effective, but hard on plastics and nylon. DIY Dave used Yamalube which worked better and is mostly stoddard solvent and xylene; it’s much less risky. The Seafoam is as much safer as it is less effective. Really, you should use Berryman’s oil flush or BG’s EPR to clean out the rings and use then a high mileage full synthetic that will come esters in it to swell the seals; and then change it regularly

[@ETMotorsports]

Good point for sure...the smoke is the B12 and crap burning up...Seafoam smokes in the exact same way if introduced in the combustion chamber, which it's designed to do...I've tried multiple oil flushes but they don't work - this stuff needs to soak in over hours...I`m sure there are better solutions out there to play with as it looks like Dave has found some...

[@bojo_ri6083]

Hello Eurotrash Motorsports I have a similar issue with my car It's an inline 6, BMW N52 engine. It used to burn oil, and at the time I tried putting Liqui moly Pro-Line Gasoline System Cleaner, hoping to clean the engine/fuel system (product number 5153). I put a whole can 500ml can into half of a tank of gas (about 30 liters) Well, since then it stopped burning oil and I thought it was cured as maybe the solution in the fuel affected piston rings during the compression cycle of the engine. Turns out, after a while, the oil started to smell like gasoline when I opened the oil fill cap and smelled it, that's why the oil level was ok - it was actually adding fuel to the sump and masking the oil burning problem. What I think happened is the liqui moly stuff did release the rings a little bit, actually making the problem worse. Do you think a complete soak of the pistons could work, instead of putting the cleaner into the tank like the first time? I don't have B-12 here in the EU, but I am thinking a similar injector cleaner would do the trick. I won't hold you accountable for any damage I do to my car, I just want your opinion.

[@ETMotorsports]

hey in my experience, nothing you add to the fuel tank or oil will help fix the rings...the soak is the only way to apply the solvent directly to the piston rings short of taking the pistons out. So if you're sure the oil burning is from the rings, I would say a piston soak is your best bet. On a straight 6 it would be pretty easy - what angle are the pistons at? One thing that came out of doing the v6 is the idea of soaking the pistons when they are TDC to make sure that you also soak the bottom of the valves and the head crown as well...injectors too if it's direct injected... as for access to B-12...yeah unfortunately it's hard to come by anywhere outside of the US...I think you used the right LiquiMoly the first time - I would perhaps try that as the solvent for the pistons too. They've got lots of different products but if I was choosing I would definitely go for their pro-line stuff and you can probably dig up the contents of both solvents to see how close they match up. Lots of folks have suggested making your own mix too - kerosene etc. but that's going a bit more experimental at that point... that said - I'd be pretty worried about my oil smelling like gasoline. I`m not experienced with the N52 but I can't think of where these two systems can possibly mix? Take a sample of your oil - if it really does have gasoline in it I wouldn't drive the car until you figure it out. Is it possible the smell wasn't coming from the oil?

[@bojo_ri6083]

@@ETMotorsports unfortunetly not, I could smell it from the oil top up cap when I opened it at operating temp, engine shut of. There is no dipstick, port injected engine. The smell was very intense when I opened it. I have since parked it and don't drive it in order to stave of a potencial catastophe. The engine sits at a 20deg angle and I'll have to lift one side up to ge to below 10 deg angle to save liquid and prevent diluting the oil even more with the soak procedure. I agree, nothing would help better than this, but I wonder why now, I've had the car for a year or so. It's either overfueling due to a bad injector or the mixture is going past the rings. It does misfire ever so slightly at cold starts, but its barely noticeable and only when I put my hand on the engine could I feel the misfire. Just wanted to see what you thought as the stuck rings are mostly about oil consumption, but my theory was - if the rings weren't sealing, maybe the air fuel mixture can go down to the pan in the compression phase just like oil can go up into the combustion chamber during the expansion phase. The tricky thing will be finding the sweet spot when all the pistons are at nearly the same piont, as its a straight 6, there is always a piston near or around tdc. Thanks for replying btw 🙂

[@ETMotorsports]

hmm if you had blow-by through the pistons you'd be seeing A LOT of other problems...I`m guessing your PCV would blow out, oil will go through all your seals etc. because you'd be pressurizing your crank case... I read a bit on this and it sounds like that engine suffers from leaky injectors...so after you shut the car off, an injector just leaks fuel down into the piston which eventually makes it into the oil? sounds like you need to take the plugs off after you run the car and monitor each piston for fuel on the crown...if you have a misfire on specific piston that's a good place to start... so maybe not the end of the world yet...change your oil, run the motor (can probably do it in place as well), turn it out, pop the plugs and watch for a fuel leak from an injector...you may need a scope for that...then just replace the injector...I wouldn't worry about the soak until you solve this one first

[@bojo_ri6083]

@@ETMotorsports that's a good point about the soak, maybe it's not needed until I solve the overfueling issue. I'll change the oil and monitor the injectors. The injectors are mainly a problem on the N53, which is high pressure direct injection and my N52 is port injected, that's why I basically ruled out the injectors as people dont usually mention them a sbad, but I'll have a look at the plugs and crown like you said. I can also take the while rail out with the injectors attached and while it's under pressure to better see if there is a leak. I also saw a video where you can actuate them with a battery to see if the spray pattern is ok. I'll be carefull with fuel, goes without saying hehe

[@jellybean7777]

would it work with diesel engine as well?"

[@ETMotorsports]

Yup - no issues

[@kdudutse]

curious if it will work on diesel touareg

[@ETMotorsports]

no reason why it shouldn't if the consumption comes from the rings...make sure you check the PCV and turbo first. The only difference is that you have to go through the glow plug holes, which is a bit harder but not impossible

[@tedjohnson64]

@@ETMotorsports Curious about your comment "...make sure you check the PCV and turbo first". How could the turbo cause oil consumption, and how would one check it?

[@chrisgarrett7999]

👍🇬🇧

[@mohammedmerzougui1671]

What do you think about amsoil engine flush

[@ETMotorsports]

An engine flush is a good thing to do every now and then but it won't solve the piston ring issues... I've tried multiple times

[@mohammedmerzougui1671]

What do you think about new engine oil valvolin restore and protect

[@mohammedmerzougui1671]

Thank you

[@atibbo]

Just put ramps under the tires only on one side and then do the same for the other side.

[@ETMotorsports]

@@atibboI'm not sure you realize what 45 degrees looks like with one side in the air... the ramps won't do anything unfortunately

[@atibbo]

@@ETMotorsports im not saying jack the car to a 45 degree angle, but every little bit helps

[@brizax]

Pcv service ?

[@ETMotorsports]

Done before I did the piston soak

[@brizax]

@@ETMotorsports good content

[@TheChadls]

Please do it on a BMW V8

[@ETMotorsports]

got one to donate? :)

[@jcorona0791]

I have a 2015 audi Q7 I burn about a quart of oil like every 2500 miles . And maybe it's because I do my interval oil changes every 5 k instead of 10 k like the manufacturer suggested and I have 182 k miles on it.

[@ETMotorsports]

Yeah I've gone to 5k oil changes too but technically speaking even though 1qt/2500 miles is well within spec it's still too high... these engines shouldn't burn oil - there's no engineering reason for it...

[@jcorona0791]

@ETMotorsports The reason for it, is they started using low tension piston rings due to the EPA demand for higher MPG on engines.

[@ETMotorsports]

haha yeah no I know the reason they burn oil, I meant there's no good engineering reason for it...they replaced fuel consumption with oil consumption and passed the problem to the consumers down the road which is ridiculous. It's bad engineering plain and simple...if your "improved" rings give you 0.1L/100 improved consumption and cost each owner 20k in repair bills or 100$ extra in oil every 5000km you've failed as a manufacturer

[@tedjohnson64]

​@@ETMotorsports Excellent point, trading off mildly improved fuel consumption (via low tension piston rings) for a $20k engine repair. From a manufacturer perspective, their motive for making this horrible tradeoff is the fuel improvement is immediate, so the management team can brag about it to get a bigger bonus. The $20k repair cost is also a win, because it'll let them move more metal (sell more new cars). One might think that it would cause customers to perhaps switch to Toyota (who have dual port injection, thereby eliminating the carbon issue). But that only fixes the carbon issue on the back of the intake valves. The Toyotas still seem to have stuck carbon rings. The Care Nut (Master Toyota Tech for years, now has his own shop) had an in-depth video ("Why do Toyota engines consume oil? And how to prevent it?") where he too agrees that it's due to low tension piston rings. He's like the Mr Rogers of car technicians. His overly friendly demeanor makes it seem like he doesn't know what he's talking about, but... if you get past the first few mins of the video, he starts to provide a really good technical explanation of what the problem is. He also has an interesting explanation (stage 1, 2, and 3) about how the carboned up oil control rings cause the ring to stick in one position, slightly protruding in one location, which in turn wears a groove into the cylinder wall. It's really a fascinating presentation. Surprisingly, he thinks 3k-5k (rather than 10k) oil changes are the solution. Seems at first like a superficial answer, but he points out that the Toyota manual actually specifies 5k oil change intervals if you do extended idling (stuck in traffic), short trips, and really cold weather conditions. Apparently cold weather starts cause excessive oil to weep into the crankcase, diluting the oil. He actually has an example of 2 identical cars, one of which did the 10k oil changes (and ended up burning 1 quart every 500 miles, at 49k miles), the other of which burned no oil at 100k miles. Here's a direct video link: kzbin.info/www/bejne/rGWthGqGrseJaM0 Update: just rewatched his video. He said he's actually had good success with industrial strength oil additives that are only available to dealers. You put it in the crankcase, run the car for 20 mins, then drain the oil. But unfortunately didn't list any product names, because he said they're not available to consumers. He's got 7,000 comments under that vid, so when I get time maybe I'll wade through them to see if any techs drop the dime on the product names.

[@MS-ko1cs]

Can someone send me 2 cans of B12 ? Im living in France. Of course, ill pay for everything

[@SrZomBros]

Use ATF+4 mezclado con acetona en partes iguales.

[@brizax]

It’s a crec motor , stock mpi , sounds like he drove it like a woman