How to fix excessive oil consumption from clogged piston rings (Part 3) - Final verdict and Q&A

[@martinramirez8922]

"I am simply surprised! I am currently driving a 2012 Audi A4 with 120,000 miles on it. Before the piston cleaning procedure, my car used to burn 1.5 quarts of oil every 700 miles. However, after the procedure, I have now covered 600 miles and there has been no noticeable change in the oil level. Thank you again for this solution and for saving me a lot of money. Please continue posting this type of helpful videos. Best regards."🤝🤝

[@ETMotorsports]

Awesome results!! Glad it worked

[@johndroc11]

Thats awesome! may i know what procedures did you apply? i have Similar issue for 2012 q5 2.0 T burning a quart every 300 miles! Its drives awesome with only 102 miles in it right now. thanks

[@udaygandi7010]

@@ETMotorsportsyour videos are very helpful. I am from Toronto and my Audi q5 burning 1.5 litres engine oil every 1k kilometres. I am fine to come to Ottawa, can I get your appointment to do piston soak for my Audi q5. Appreciate your coordination.

[@HulkSmashU-bl5vs]

I normally park my car by the mailbox and throw the spark plugs in from the front door, NEVER missed a single one in 30 years. True story.

[@poopyheads5720]

Under rated comment 😂

[@steveanderson8849]

I just want to thank you and add myself to the list of grateful people that your videos helped. I have a 2014 Q5 2.0t that started burning 1 qt of oil every 400-500 miles. Love the car and it ran great but I was going to get rid of it. After doing the piston soak following your technique with B12, I’ve already put 1600miles on it and it has barely burned any oil so far. I absolutely can’t believe it! Thank you!!!

[@ETMotorsports]

Love it! Thanks for the feedback!

[@sukhacheema5533]

same problam i have a same car please tell me how to fix it?

[@sethlors5951]

Just adding my experience to the majority of positive comments. 2012 Audi Q5 2.0T Premium Plus with 98,000 miles (~157,000 km) Before the piston soak, I got about 600 miles (~1000 km) per liter of oil consumed. It's not as bad as other people's engines. I completed the piston soak in 24 hours, as recommended. I then got the engine started after turning the crank by hand. Initially, I had multiple misfires and couldn’t keep the engine above 2,000 rpm before it died. After about 3 minutes of starting and trying to keep it alive, it eventually began to idle without misfiring as often. At this point, there was no more white smoke coming from the exhaust. I let it idle for about 10 more minutes with minimal misfires before taking it out for a drive. After driving for about 3 minutes, the check engine light turned on and misfired multiple times. The engine did not die, but it was running rough. I let it idle for a minute on the side of the road then the check engine light turned off by itself. (I didn’t have my scan tool with me, so I couldn’t see what the light was for, but I assumed it was for the misfiring.) I continued driving for about 20 more minutes with no issues. A few notes about the misfires. I put the old spark plugs in after the piston soak because I didn’t want to ruin the new ones. The old spark plugs were in terrible condition and could have been part of the reason for the misfires. Went home, changed the oil, changed the spark plugs, and it fired right up and ran great. After about 50 miles (~80km), I checked the oil level according to the Audi sensor, which said it had burned half a liter of oil. Then it jumped up to full again. So, I was very skeptical of the accuracy of the oil level sensor readings. I bought a dipstick, and I’m about 800 miles in. The dipstick and sensor level haven’t changed from full since the initial 50 miles. Overall, I’m calling this a great success! The project was pretty straightforward for me (I rarely work on cars. I rotate tires and replace filters, that’s about it). I’ll try to update my comment with any other issues I run into, as well as mileage per liter of oil! Thanks, @ETMotorsports, for putting these videos together.

[@ETMotorsports]

awesome! really glad it worked for you as well...yeah good point about re-using the old plugs until you swap the oil...I did the same but another viewer installed new plugs right after the soak...it's not a good idea because you're running all of the burned up soot and B12 right through your new plugs...so yes - soak, run for 30 min with the old plugs so you can go through all the garbage and then get the new oil and new plugs in...

[@prppatrik]

So, whats your oil consumption after all? My A3 2.0t consumes 1l of oil per 1200km more or less. I’m definitely trying this method

[@sethlors5951]

@@prppatrik I made it about 2500 miles (~4000 km) and had to add one more liter! Still going strong!

[@prppatrik]

Thanks for the feedback!

[@CoenraadZ]

Decided to do a carbon clean and piston soak on my 2005 Audi A4 B7 2.0TFSI (BGB) with 173K miles on the clock. Since it is not worth the shipment to get B12 to my country, I just made my own with locally purchased chemicals. Seeing as this information is published I used the following main ingredient formula: 50% Toluene, 25% Acetone, 20% Methanol and 5% Isopropanol. (It dissolves carbon like butter so I know it works). Changed my oil and filter as well as adding Liqui Moly fuel injector cleaner to my gas tank and have only put 200 miles on the odometer thus far, but can already see a drastic improvement in MPG (according to the computer which I know is not scientific). I shall report back after 5000K in terms of oil consumption and MPG, but I am optimistic thus far! Thank you for what have been extremely helpful and motivational videos...

[@ETMotorsports]

Awesome!! A few folks have tried different chemical combinations - looking forward to the results

[@CoenraadZ]

@@ETMotorsports Update: This did not work as well as I'd like on my Audi A4 B7. Oil consumption is less and she smokes much less at WOT. I shall perform a 2nd piston soak soon... However, the good news is that I also did a single soak on my 2009 Audi A4 B8 2.0 TFSI (CDNC). It has only been 2 months and 3,000km and it has not used a drop of oil since! (Prior to that I had to top up approximately every 1500km or so with the oil indicator displaying at 50%). Absolutely over the moon with this result and I cannot thank you enough!

[@dbs7309]

I really appreciate you doing this in a somewhat "scientific" manner. This is great information. Thank you

[@maurifico1]

I just come here to say that it works! I have a 2016 2.0T Q5. It used to burn 1 quart every 300 miles, and I was preparing myself for a full engine overhaul, but I decided to give this a shot. I did the full process, plus a Liqui Moly engine flush at the end. It was really surprising the amount of carbon that it came out! Sprayed some carburetor cleaner in the pistons and ran the starter 2 times also after finishing the soak, the rags were covered in carbon too. So far I did 300 miles and the oil level is at max still! Huge thank you!

[@ETMotorsports]

Great results!!

[@timpresutto184]

I NEED to do this!!! i Need to know couple things first. can Berryman be in oil when ur done w procedure? & should i try to Vacuum out whatever is left in there? plselmk🙏 ​@ETMotorsports

[@maurifico1]

@@timpresutto184I changed the oil after doing the process, since it was full of carbon chunks. I used a Liqui Moly engine flush to try to remove as much crap as possible. It worked awesome. So far I hit around 2000 miles and 0 signs of oil consumption.

[@timpresutto184]

​@maurifico1 do the motor flush before the soak?

[@christhefistful]

Main ingredient in the B-12 PN#0116 is Toluene. You can buy 3.78L of Toluene at Canadian tire for $59.99. I have used it to remove carbon deposits in diesel and gas engines. Wear protective gloves and eye wear when handling. I am a retired diesel mechanic and agree the best fix is to install new pistons rings etc. But on a ROI it's worth trying to dissolve the build up behind the rings and getting the combustion pressure in the cylinders back to pushing the backside of the piston rings. This makes a better seal against the cylinder walls which helps oil consumption and drivability issues. Just so you know Santa is watching and he cries when he watches you drop sparkplugs into the cylinders.

[@Martin-jh6kc]

Согласен полностью, так свечи кидать в колодцы нельзя

[@ETMotorsports]

Hmm worth a try - might pick up a jug next time around

[@chadd587]

Be careful not to strip the cylinder walls dry.

[@atom608]

I can get 5L of it for $50NZD I reckon that and a can of liquid molly engine cleaner mixed together would probably work as in NZ we would have to get b-12 imported at $35 per can without shipping

[@smyley6049]

Thanks so much for posting!! I’ve been using b12 in the gas only and I went from 832 miles to 1241 miles. I will try the soak next. I’ve owned Audis for decades and always had to add a quart of oil between oil changes. You’re within Audi specs now and this is great!!

[@proefficientsvision6325]

So u put the b12 in the tank with the gas? How do u do it? Wait until the gas is low then pour the whole thing?

[@smyley6049]

Yep, I put a bottle in a 1/4 tank of gas and then fill up. This is my 3rd tank of gas and it slowed down the oil consumption.

[@proefficientsvision6325]

@@smyley6049 niceee thats dope well good thing i bought 3 bottles of b12..i plan to use 2 for the piston soak then i guess ill use the last one on the gas...thanks for the advice

[@timpresutto184]

​@@smyley6049better gas mileage?

[@Machine_Brad]

@@proefficientsvision6325It does actually guide you on the can. Add before fuel, to ensure proper mixture. I’m just about to add some once the last 24 hrs is up.

[@walrus68000]

I did a b12 treatment about 800 miles back. Still at 50% oil and it started at about 80% when I refilled oil so this definitely helped. Few things; liquid was gone from the cylinders in a few hours. Even after multiple fills. Turning the crank after the liquids drained through the rings is an easy way to move the pistons between adding some liquid. Put a long sheet of shop towels over the engine when you crank and you can see the color of what's blown out. Obviously do this only after liquid drains through the rings. My back cylinder seemed to drain fastest so I hooked up a pump to a thin hose to blow air in to agitate the liquid as well as suck it all out and did this a few times to wash the cylinder. Each time it was less and less thick black carbon. If I do this again I'm going to make a long thread attachment so I can pump some pressure in to try to force it to flush through the rings. Lastly, B12 ingredients are online for anyone needing to compare other products in case B12 is not available to them.

[@ETMotorsports]

thanks for the feedback!

[@samuelafreh-debrah8971]

I own a 2013 Beetle Turbo with the 2.0t engine, and the oil burning was alarming. No shit, I topped up a quart as regularly as I filled up the tank. I was on the verge of forking out money I didn't have to replace the pistons and rings, when I researched for alternative fixes and came across this vehicle. Frankly, I was skeptical, but after watching this and a few others, I decided to perform a piston soak also. I'm in Ghana, Africa, and there's no way to get B12 here. But I managed to get 3 cans of seafoam, which I mixed up with STP super concentrated injector cleaner. After soaking for 24 hours according to your instructions and changing the oil afterwards, I've gone on a 600 mile road trip and back, and I'm frankly astounded. Dipstick is still reading full and I really can't believe it. Prior to the soak Cylinder 4 was the most affected, with new plugs always getting wet with oil even after a few minutes of idling. I pulled it out after the trip, and it's bone dry. Thank you so much Sir. Really. You have no idea what you have done for me and I'm eternally grateful.

[@ETMotorsports]

@@samuelafreh-debrah8971 great results!! I'll have to check the STP injector cleaner

[@e90lownslow14]

did this on a BMW e90 N52 engine that was burnign 1 qt per 300-500 mi. after a couple 6 hour soaks now im at about 1000 miles per 1 qt. bout to do a oil change again soon and monitor and see how the soak really did. ty for the info bro keep up the great work.

[@ETMotorsports]

Nice work!

[@mattl3148]

Before your video, I used liquid moly engine flush for 15 min before doing my oil change.It improved little bit from 300 to 900 miles. I did that couple times and never could go pass 900 miles before I had oil light. Once I would get to 4k miles it would just slowly drop back to 300 miles. I got aggravated and used liquid moly engine flush and soaked the pistons over night without cranking pistons but that also did not help me go pass 900 miles before I had to add oil. At this point I was willing to try anything. So I actually started using shell T6 5w40. It was recommended by a friend. He said the diesel oil has extra chemicals to clean your engine. Did some research and been using it now for six months. When using the t6, I noticed that my pistons wouldn't get dirty as quickly as before. What I mean by that is if my car burn oil every 900miles after the engine flush. It would still burn 1qt oil every 900 miles and it wouldn't decrease like it did before with Castrol oil. I just tried your method but I only did for 7 hours since I didn't have time. I can confirm that I see a big improvement. I did so far 1500 miles and I still did not have to add oil. I actually have a dip stick in my car that I bought and the oil level shows still at max. I also still use shell T6. Thanks to your video I'm actually happy with the my car now. BTW I drive 2012 Audi Q5 2.0t.

[@ETMotorsports]

Great! yeah pretty much the same car...I used the Rotella T6 in my A4 after the piston soak for about 1000km...I don't think the T6 is within spec for the Audi so perhaps consider switching back when you're happy with the numbers...but yes I've heard the same thing - more detergents to help keep the engine clean...

[@vader_117]

Did you use liquimoly engine flush for piston soak??

[@mattl3148]

​@@vader_117I used the same product as in the video. I am thinking of using liquid moly engine flush every oil change to keep the pistons cleaner hopefully. So running it for 15 min and draining the oil.

[@michaelscoots]

I also did a shortened soak with B12 on my 2011 A4. I had planned on doing a 24 hour soak but got called into work so my soak only lasted 3 hours! Prior to the soak I was burning 1 quart every 200 miles. So far I’ve driven the car 900 miles and no drop in oil!

[@kkisielius4670]

After your two videos about piston soak, I were pretty confident about doing the piston soak for my 2.0t audi. Sadly in Europe I couldnt buy barrymann product, but I found pretty good alternative for that. Also used 10w40 motorex, added the additive to the crank. And now i’m on nearly 1k km. first 200kms i drove the car like crazy to see if its the same thing as before. Because before if i’d push above 3.5-4k rpms, there would immediately appear the smell of burning oil. And I needed to add 1l of oil after every week or approximately about 500-600km. But now honestly, no oil smell in cabin and the oil level is i would say between max and the middle of the dip stick. I’am really happy with the results. If anyone is wondering what’s the name of the product for piston soak is, it’s verylube anticarbon. Thank you for the videos, keep it up!!

[@rolandoixpache7524]

Hello. Which product did you use instead of Berryman?

[@jochem4680]

That’s also what I would like to know

[@gamersroost]

@kkisielius4670 Did you have the oil smell on deceleration as well?

[@SkateSpace2012]

verylube anticarbon

[@rkan2]

Also subscribing for what you used. I figured B-12 is mostly toluene, acetone and methanol. I find many paint thinners have both toluene and acetone but methanol in them is not easy to find mixed or separate. I guess you could substitute for some other alcohol or just gasoline...

[@pscileppi]

Great follow up and appreciate you giving credit to DIY Dave. A couple of suggestions: 1. During one of the refill/soaks, I added the B12 and then reinstalled the spark plugs lightly and very slowly turned the crank to slowly force the B12 through the system carefully so I didn’t blow it up. 2. When the soak is done, I put a little oil in each cylinder and rotated the crank manually 8-10 revolutions to help the start up (but made sure the cylinder was empty before starting) - still a little roughy to start, but no misfires and only cranked for a little longer than usual. I only had a few hours to do the soak, but car is running well after (too early to tell if it helped with the oil burning). 2011 Toyota Camry 2.5L. Thanks!

[@ETMotorsports]

interesting - I tried to reinstall the spark plugs and turn the motor and it wouldn't move...I thought of the same thing - use compression to push the liquid through but that didn't seem to work on my motor...

[@MrTLsnow]

What's the update on this? I'm currently doing a 72 hour soak and am planning on keeping the spark plugs lightly on like you did. Did it help oil consumption?

[@ThomasCromwell-hs3un]

Thank you for this series of videos! I really appreciate your approach - careful and thoughtful, but yet not treating the car like it’s a spacecraft either. I saw DIY Dave’s posts, but I didn’t have the confidence to try it on my Audi (2012 Q5, 103k miles) until I saw your posts and all the comments. Wanted to share the amazing results!! My Q5 was burning a quart every 230 miles like clockwork. I did a chickens*** version - used about 1 1/4 cans of Berrymans. I started with 75 ml in each cylinder, hand cranked just a few rotations (I know I’m lazy), waited 6 hours and added more, repeating the light hand cranking. After 24 hrs, we added a 1/2 quart of oil to the crankcase to make it full (started 1 qt. low) and cranked it up. Rough start, took a few tries, but no CEL or misfiring. I drove it gently 10 minutes to the oil change shop. I’m at 1100 miles now and the oil indicator is barely below full. No other products were used. I can’t believe it! Thanks again!

[@ETMotorsports]

Awesome results! Glad it worked

[@aridee9302]

Hi, my sons and I are big VW/Audi fans and this is a very interesting video presentation. I didn't realize that I've been doing a "piston soak" (or some crude version of it) way back in the 80s on my Jetta Trek. The reason I did that was to avoid carbon build -up in the cylinders, keep injectors clean, reduce fuel consumption and emissions, and ensure the car would pass the emission test. My method was very crude: I disconnect a vacuum hose and dip it in the bottle of the fuel treatment. I would then just turn the ignition ever so slightly and watch half of the bottle be sucked into the engine. I'd reconnect the vacuum hose and leave the car as is overnight. In the morning i start the car and the thick black smoke turns to white and eventually to invisible as i rev the engine and leave it idling for a while. My car would pass the emission test and the test would be amazed how a high- mileage old car would register emissions that's next to nothing. Where in Canada are you located? I'd like to learn more about this b12 product. Thank you.

[@ETMotorsports]

Hey yeah lots of folks are doing this for various reasons :) I'm in Ottawa

[@taylorhoward6998]

Thank you for the very informative and detailed 3 part saga. I’m sure it helped a lot of people, as it did for me. I tried this on a family members Accord. I discover that cyl 4 had 0psi of compression, I figured the rings might be stuck because the EGR valve was stuck open so Carbon and emissions gasses were flooding into the engine. Followed your process to a tee. But I added a step, I added a tiny dash of atf the the effected cylinder. My thought on doing that was that now that the b12 had broken down some of the carbon around the rings, the ATF (being a good sort of penetrating lubricant with detergent properties) would then do an additional soak and work around the rings and lubricate at the same time. Went from 0 psi to 150 psi 😆 brought it back to life! Comp tested it 100 miles later and same reading of 150psi. I not sure if doing the ATF soak after b12 provided any benefit but I just wanted to share my story. Thanks for the great vids, keep in makin em

[@ETMotorsports]

that's awesome! that's quite a significant improvement in that one cylinder!

[@taylorhoward6998]

It definitely was not expected. I was hopeful for some increase in psi after scoping the cylinder and not seeing any visible damage, didn’t expect this outcome. But it just goes to show the impact that stuck rings can make. I almost pulled the motor and donated it for charity lol Again, love the videos, love how thorough you are with them and looking foreword for more.

[@sofaking1591]

Thank you I was adding 1 qt of oil every 200 miles now after this I’m at 1000 miles with no loss….INCREDIBLE 2013 Q5 2.0T w/ 75k miles

[@ETMotorsports]

Awesome results!

[@davehewitt]

2017 A4 2.0t My car was going through a quart of oil per 300 miles Took it to a local shop which is well reviewed and a mechanic who I still trust but his recommendation was a new engine, which is standard for the industry I followed this procedure with B12 and adding diesel engine oil I’m currently 3000 miles past the procedure with zero oil consumption I would call this a great success compared to where it was

[@ETMotorsports]

Awesome results...jeez 2017 shouldn't have these problems 🤯

[@rad_vids]

I have done the treatment on my 2009 A4 and so far, it looks promising. I hope I get as good of results as you! I will post my own results video once I have used the quart of oil. I did have some issues right after doing it that I will try to explain in my results video, but once i figured out the issue, it has been running just fine since.

[@drc8880]

Probably the viewer that had an issue with oil pressure had large amounts of sludge accumulated in the engine already. When adding the B12, it probably broke up all of that carbon buildup and sludge and plugged up the oil pick up screen or oil filter. My assumption is the gritty type of material you were feeling in the first oil change is just chunks of carbon that was broken free from to B12. I plan on trying to use this method on my 2011 Chevrolet equinox with a 2.4 L engine that has oil consumption. Thanks for the informational videos!

[@ETMotorsports]

Good luck! Keep us posted with your results... sadly he mentioned he paid 3k for a new oil pump which is insane so hopefully he wasn't taken advantage of by a crappy mechanic

[@rschneid1996]

Thank you so much for posting the follow-up (part 3). I have a 2015 Audi Q5 with the 2.0t engine and plan to perform this service at my next oil change.

[@ETMotorsports]

Good luck! Keep us posted with your results

[@emailjwr]

How'd it go? I'm looking at a 2016 Q5 and have concerns about this issue...

[@stuartarneaud218]

Bro well done I to saw barry video with Corolla now after watching ur 3 videos I am going to give to a try. I have a 2008 Prado 235km. It does about a liter every 1000km. So hoping for the best thank again 🙏🏻🙏🏻

[@free2chasehappy]

Great video. I'm an independent mechanic for 7 years and B12 is always in my staple. Another good chemical to have is Marvel Mystery Oil. I would recommend do a second soak, and use MMO in the oil. I have used this trick for a lot of small engines and it has always worked amazingly with regards to oil consumption.

[@ETMotorsports]

Great info

[@alejandrocabeza1919]

so you're saying do the second soak with MMO instead of B12? Same procedure but mmo. I had a successful first soak with B12 so far but planning on doing a second soak when the time comes for oil change, however B12 is hard to get in Canada, and expensive if available.

[@ETMotorsports]

How were the results after the first soak? What's your consumption now and why do you want to do the second soak? If you're already pretty good after the first soak you can try to do a second run with Seafoam high mileage or equivalent from Canadian Tire...I just ran a soak in my Touareg VR6 with Seafoam and so far it looks to have worked well

[@alejandrocabeza1919]

Soak done Oct 20th or so. Added 4.5ish L of Quakerstate 5w40 Euro, the digital indicator didn't quite show full at the time. Then about 100km later I added a bottle of Rislone engine treatment which probably put the oil over max capacity. I'm now at 1000km and the indicator hasn't moved. I have a dipstick but it's maybe moved 2-3mm. Prior to this the car was burning a full digital meter scale every 550 or so, I only had the car for that long before a friend sent me your videos and I went to town on the soak. I had misfires in cyl 2-3 and so i got someone to do a carbon cleaning and was it ever caked! Runs much better now but i feel the vibrations in idle they're just very very subtle. Other work done diy was MAF clean, throttle body clean, changed the PCV, new coils(NGK R8), new plugs twice. I'm back to the ones that came with the car which I cleaned with throttle body cleaner and wire brush. I'll try the soak with seafoam next and have a jug of Pennzoil Platinum euro and liquimoly oil saver ready for next change. Here are some pics of before the soak and then recently when I put the old plugs back in imgur.com/a/4QHWIqK@@ETMotorsports

[@alejandrocabeza1919]

I can't recall the order of photos before the soak but the ones after are Cyl 1,2,3,4. I've ran two seafoams and an STP through the fuel system since getting the car in Sept. And also changed the injectors during the carbon cleaning.

[@tedjohnson64]

Very objective and comprehensive follow up, nice!

[@ETMotorsports]

Much appreciated!

[@anthonycolella7049]

2011 Audi A4 Quattro at 105,000 miles - I followed your piston soak with B-12 only. I was burning 1 quart per 150 miles, and am now at 500 miles with zero oil loss. Unbelievable. THANK YOU. You saved me thousands; it feels like a new car (better idle, start, throttle response, power), and like you said it’s not “cured” but $50 every year or two for an hour worth of time is way worth it. Great job; I can’t thank you enough. Tip- I “slipped” cranking the engine by hand once and did a fast quarter turn and squirted some B-12 out which happened to get in my eye (ouch)… crank strong, but slow. Now that I know the process, I think I can do this for a total investment of about 20 minutes up front, 4 60-second cranks, and then 20 minutes to put everything back together and do an oil change.

[@ETMotorsports]

Awesome results! Glad it worked

[@karimsahyoun2363]

Worked like a miracle. 6 months in almost no oil consumption. I do use only super fuel to avoid carbon deposits

[@ETMotorsports]

@@karimsahyoun2363 great results!

[@thehen42]

Thanks for the update! Im actually quite surprised how well the treatment worked for you. I wish my results were as good. You may remember i commented on your last video with my ongoing saga with my A4. I left saying i was going to try it one more time and post my results. Never did on the last video, so here they are now. This would be the 3rd round of piston soaking. I basically followed the same procedure as before. One difference is that the car was warmed up before i started. Not sure this was the brightest idea since the first pour of B12 into the first cylinder instantly started boiling and almost got me in the face. Needless to say i waited a bit for safety reasons lol. I first added about 25ml to each cylinder and then rotated the crank several times. Then i spread the remainder of the bottle to the cylinders. I let soak overnight. First thing the next morning i rotated the crank several times again. Added about half the second bottle to the cylinders and let soak for about 4 hours or so. Rotated the crank again and added the rest of the bottle and let soak another 4 hours or so. I rotated the crank a bunch more then put everything back together and started it. I let it idle for awhile to clean itself out. The usual misfires and light smoking for the first 5 minutes or so then everything cleaned up. I drove the car home and then back to work the next day with the oil/B12 mixture. Just shy of 100 miles round trip. I changed the oil and filter and filled it back up with Rotella T6. I remember you tried something similar by using an oil that had more additives and detergents. Maybe i was wrong, but either way the my car seemed to eat the Rotella fairly quickly and wasnt too long before i was down a liter. Then i changed the oil and filter again and put in Mobil 1 which what i normally run. All in all i definitely saw improvement. Though not as successful as you, i would recommend trying this treatment for anyone dealing with similar issues. I started burning a liter about every 260 miles and now i usually have to add a liter about every 400. No not huge improvement, but improvement nonetheless which i will take as a win. I know theres a few other things going on with the car so there might be other contributing factors to the oil consumption rather than just the rings/pistons. Either way I got a deal on a used engine so i plan to run my car as is until i decide to make the engine swap a nice winter project

[@ETMotorsports]

Shoot... yeah I remember your issues... sorry to hear this wasn't as effective... yeah there's no guarantee with this - your kind of praying that this softens things just enough to get you on the other side of the Audi spec...

[@thehen42]

Yeah I went into it with low expectations so I'm happy with even just the slightest improvement. One thing I wish I did differently was the regimented crank turning that you did with turning the crank and adding more B12 every 6 hours. I feel that's one of the biggest factors. I could be wrong, but I would think allowing the carbon to soften and then rotating the crank to break things loose is one of the most important contributing factors to the success you had. Unfortunately I did the treatment at my work so I was limited to how often I could access my car

[@svetlinspirov5758]

@@thehen42try an additives that could soften or swell the gaskets and valve stem seals. I'm currently on a second can of Liqui moly Oil Saver and it might work, only 1000km so far. But at this time, I would have to add a litre of oil, but the oil level sensor still shows max. Alao check the PCV system. All of these things can contribute to excessive oil consumption.

[@memopadilla5931]

@@thehen42 Also check your pcv hose and make sure it is not crimped, and if so, change it out. I have seen this fix the problem as well.

[@Centralflorida22]

The amount of smoke that came out of my 2011 328i filled the street with thick white smoke for about the length of a football field. It cleaned my oil sensor so now it's working properly again. Also not burning a drop of oil and no oil burning smell. I couldn't be more happy. I used my berrymans b12 and flushed out with seafoam, tools and a bore scope. I just did a 8 hour soak. Topped off Then rinse flushed out the spark plug holes. The amount of carbon was enormous. Although the crankcase is in pristine condition meaning this car had normal oil changes before I bought it in March. Next is ultrasonic cleaning the fuel injectors.

[@ETMotorsports]

yeah when the stuff burns it SMOKES! :)

[@MaxnRudy]

Tried this on my oil guzzling 2014 A4 and has worked great for 300 miles so far! No more dirty smoke out of the exhaust. I found the #3 piston soaked with oil. Let add this safety tip... let the engine cool down before pouring in the Berrymans! My first attempt was a near disaster from a geyser of toxic steam shooting out of the spark plug hole 😊

[@ETMotorsports]

Interesting - the #3 on my A4 was also soaked in oil...I wonder if it's something to do with how the PCV air gets into the manifold... And YES! Don't pour on a hot engine - I did the same mistake thinking it'll be more effective... it just evaporated... good point!

[@MaxnRudy]

I replaced the pcv over a year ago with no improvement. Sometime this month I'm going to do another full piston soak. In the meantime I'm real happy with the new found power, less hesitation and no more watching the oil level drop. Thank you and go Senators!

[@truckgotstuck]

I tihnk what makes mmore sense than "this isn't a fix" is "This is maintenance that will make the sticky rings not a problem." It's preventative maintenence. That's a good thing to do.

[@zuheebzakria2837]

Hey, first of all thank you for making the piston soak on the Audi Q5 2.0t specifically cuz I have the same one. I tried it myself and it changed my oil consumption from 300 city miles or 500 highway miles of buring 1 quart of oil to 1350 miles of city and highway combined. It was a great learning experience and im new with audi and this is my first audi ever. I had a check engine light on for random missfire for a couple hundred miles but went away and never came back. I didnt replace any parts, except the air filter which was full of oil somehow. I am going to do another piston soak and an oil change at about the 5k mile area and see if that improves it more. One more thing I did was I put 100ml of B-12 chemtool into a little cup and soaked my spark plugs as well for 12 hours, that cleaned off most of the oil from that as well. After the second flush I will try to remember to come back an update you all. ISSUE: I have came across an issue, it seems that my engine is leaking oil, I dont exactly know where its leaking from but it started after the piston soak. There is a little round part with a sensor connected to it right below the engine oil cap filler (if anyone knows the name of that part please let me know, thanks), it always seems to have oil on it. I have tried to clean it with brake cleaner and it dries off but after a day or two it back to being oily. anyone else have this issue? What im scared of is the altenator, ive seen vehicles altenator give out because it was soaked in oil leaking from the engine, and I hate it for it to happen, but if it wasn't for the oil leak, I think my car would reach 2-2.5k miles easily without burning a full quart.

[@ETMotorsports]

Hey - keep us updated on your final results

[@emailjwr]

Did you find out the cause of your leak? And how did the second soak turn out?

[@karimsahyoun2363]

Thanks for the great videos. I have a 2013 Passat CC 2.0 TSI with 260k Kms. Oil consumption jumped up months ago and then misfires, then pcv spewing oil. I’ve done a ton of repairs, new turbo, new pcv and now fuel mileage gauge is jumpy indicating modifiers will start again soon. I found high mileage seafoam in Dubai and will try the soak next weekend. Wish me luck! And keep up the great videos.

[@ETMotorsports]

Fingers crossed - keep us posted!

[@poopyheads5720]

did it work?

[@alexpode]

did it work?

[@kangzau1006]

Reviewing Diy daves videos along with yours, origin of his b12 experiment was a commentor called blackysan. Thanks all 3 for this experiment. I believe no spark plugs were harmed in the making of these videos.

[@j-east9414]

I've performed this procedure on my MK6 Golf GTI 2.0 TSI today. So far one noticable change is that the exhaust stopped smoking. It was white smoke/condensation which didn't bothered me because of the cold weather now. After the soak and a 30 minute drive there's no smoke/condensation anymore. Before this pistonsoak i've tried a few other products but they didn't work. (Eurol, Liquimoly) The engine still burned a quart of oil every 450 miles. I live in Germany and we can't get Berryman overhere. I've got a buddy in Florida that shipped me 2 cans of B12. For about €60,- to Germany. Thanks for the video and i will update the results.

[@ETMotorsports]

Hopefully it worked well...eek 60EUR for 2 cans is crazy lol

[@fine9186]

Hey fellow European, use Wynns Injection system purge - its simmilar to b12 and 1L costs ~20€

[@ETMotorsports]

@@fine9186 uk based company? Thanks for the recommendation... I'll check the ingredients

[@fine9186]

I think its Belgium, but main thing is available everywhere in Europe Also there are videos (in russian) about using Wynns as piston soak: 'раскаксовка Wynns'

[@j-east9414]

@@ETMotorsports So far it works. 2200Km's in and the dipstick says full.

[@leftychang]

lol awesome dude! I have a bunch of 2.0t cars and assumed the facelift motors didn’t have the issues the b8 did but my wife’s is consuming bad - will have to do this!

[@ETMotorsports]

yeah unfortunately they were supposed to have been fixed in 2014 but I've seen plenty of cars well beyond that still having oil pressure issues :(

[@fine9186]

Great results! However in order to maintain this low oil consumption you need to use higher quality oil (dont saying that Penzoil is trash) with PAO and Esters in order to maintain cleanliness of piston rings. I am not familiar with US oils but I know Redline is using PAO. Here in Europe Ravenol & Liqui Moly is high end. Higher end oil leave no residue when burned of at 300-400c which is temperature near piston rings

[@ETMotorsports]

That's not a bad point - honestly I haven't researched each oil in particular...Penzoil is readily available and within spec for that motor so that's what I use in all of my cars... all the rest of the stuff is special order usually and quite a bit more expensive

[@rothbard1984]

Liqui Moly do not make their own oil base, they just mix additives and AFAIK only one or very few of their oils have sufficient enough level of PAO to be really considered and based on some tests even the ones that have enough PAO lack on Esters. As I know pure PAO without Esters is bad for seals. BTW I am going with LM Molygen NG for my next oil change. Also some oils that are very good for more modern turbo engines may not be that great for engines that from 6-8 years ago, in some engines you might prefer lower viscosity in others - higher viscosity. You also need to consider amount of detergent components in oil, oil change intervals and driving style (idling, traffic jams and overheating are way more taxing than say highway driving). Realistically you should go by motor/hours for oil change and not pure mileage. Then you add fuel quality into the mix...

[@davepetrakos1192]

@@ETMotorsports the Motor Oil Geek here on YT has unquestioned information on oil quality. I think your Penzoil is fine. He demonstrates the differences between their various formulas, which you may find useful. There is another video where the demonstrate Valvoline that can clean . In the early 2000s he had to start making oil for his dad's NASCAR race team.

[@MrTLsnow]

How about AMSOIL?

[@alfb1830]

Another good vid😊 i did the same proces on my 2.0 tfsi with oven cleaner. Very agresive stuf but works great. I did not run the engine with that in the engine oil after the soaking. I replaced the oil to be safe. Keep up the good work ❤

[@ETMotorsports]

eek yeah oven cleaner is hefty stuff...did you find it in liquid form or spray it in the cylinders?

[@alfb1830]

@@ETMotorsports hi, normally its a spray but if you cut the can open its just like water,and poor it in. I used a plastic spray bottle. Not a can under pressure! Will give some troubles😬

[@ryanhanson6001]

I did it as well a few weeks ago. Seems to have worked well.

[@deejay4837]

I was also one who was dismayed at the spark-plug drop....haha. Funny intro.

[@martinzeddy]

I did this soak process 4 yrs ago on a 2010 A4 using Mopar Combustion Chamber Cleaner at 80k kms. I never had a check engine light or misfire after. Oil consumption improved for a while and then gradually got worse again. I sold the car to a family member (cheap) and they sold it a year later.

[@MrTLsnow]

Sounds like something you would do yearly.

[@CamoPajamies]

Try Lucas oil stabilizer next. Or RESTORE 4 cylinder formula. U did good, can listen on my iPad and glance when you show me,& you thought me and I felt I was there with u brother, ur a boss

[@TheMAC0876]

On of the main oil burning issues I have come across was a clogged or bad PCV valve. I would start there and make sure it is functioning. This was good info!

[@ETMotorsports]

Pcv is common but does not account for the quantities of oil we're talking about here... you're not going through 1L of oil every 4-500km because of the PCV... that's a pretty good indicator actually - if you're losing a bit of oil between changes it might be PCV or a leak... if you're losing significant quantities without a visible sign of a leak - most likely rings

[@TheMAC0876]

@@ETMotorsports yeah you did mention 1L

[@colinhendricks2658]

Great podcast with good video and great narration. I'll be trying this on my 2016 Volvo oil burner

[@iPoloc]

Hi, did you try the procedure on your Volvo?. I have the same problem in my 2016 Xc90 T6. Thanks in advance for your answer

[@DoAyBarrelRoll]

2009 Audi A4 2.0T here. Just did this and will report back on oil consumption. I had a hard time starting and eventually started with misfires. So I turned off the car after about 8 mins. I tried to crank again but it wouldn't really start. (It would start for a little than the engine would stop). I waited for the engine to cool a bit so I can take out the plugs and the spark plugs were all black from the carbon and soot. I put in new spark plugs but it would not want to start while cranking. So I decided to just change the oil knowing that the spark plugs aren't the issue since they are brand new. And what do you know after the oil change + new filter the car fired right up. So for those of you having trouble starting the car after the B12 treatment I would definitely put in new plugs and new oil + filter after the initial firing of the engine. I can already tell the treatment is working. The car has more oomph to it and I fell like I increased/restored some compression in the cylinders. Will report back on how long I last until the low oil light comes on again.

[@ETMotorsports]

Looking forward to the final results... the car runs rough after the first start for sure - I usually do about 30 min of driving before changing the plugs and the oil

[@DoAyBarrelRoll]

@@ETMotorsports Just an update on this. I went from 100ish miles per quart to 765 Miles a quart. I would probably get 1000+ miles per quart but I do a lot of high RPM pulls with my spirited driving style (which naturally burns more oil, also it has an APR Stage II tune). I was contemplating redoing the pistons but this is definitely a more cost effective way to take care of the oil consumption. Sure it is not a permanent fix but at my milage (146,000 miles) I rather spend the money on something else haha.

[@tristan8243]

As an alternative to b12 for europeans: Mannol 9970 has very similar ingridients. Performed a piston soak with it last weekend on a older mazda mx5. it didnt burn horrendous amounts of oil but still wanted to see if it worked. the piston and valves are free from any carbon build up an the engine runs extremely smooth and does not smoke anymore now. The car has to be driven more to determine if oil consumption changed tho! Will report back.

[@ETMotorsports]

Please keep us posted with your results

[@fine9186]

Unfortunately Mannol 9970 is carb cleaner in spray form and our Hero is using B12 in liquid form which differs in chemical compunds. I am not saying it is not working but us(Europeans) should use Wynns Injection System Purge - w76695 which has simmilar compounds to b12

[@6lackRain]

any updates

[@tristan8243]

@@6lackRainthe car still didnt burn a drop of oil. engine runs smooth as. Occasionally smokes on cold start due to worn valve seals but thats fine with me.

[@julianjennings4638]

The spark plug thing. For us crazies. Sometimes the gap gets bumped cloased. BUT, on rare occasions the centre electrode ceramic brakes! Ive heard it can cost a penny! Safe bet 🤔 i use a rubber tube to insert the plugs. Just push the ceramic into a suitably sized hose, 🦾, gently lower it and use the hose to screw the plug in. ⚡ Pull off the hose, and tighten! 🌋

[@julianjennings4638]

Great video. Engine flush works too! Thank you.

[@noelbridgeman99]

Just a comment to say that Berryman's B12 is actually available online in europe, i live in Ireland and had no trouble getting the same bottle that's used in these videos. I actually posted a comment here last week but it seems to be gone, not sure what happened there. I did the soak on my honda civic and while i can see a reduction in oil consumption it's still burning oil and i'm still seeing excessive smoke from the exhaust so i'm going to do another soak and continue to use the Berryman's in the oil and petrol tank and hopefully i'll see an additional improvement over time. I'm seeing oil on the plugs especially from cylinder 3 but i haven't had any real issues with the running of the car, just the excessive oil consumption and smoky exhaust which unfortunately will fail an emissions test. This problem with the oil consumption started shortly after getting a P0401 code with the CEL on the dash which suggests an egr problem and which i haven't managed to solve, just wondering if anyone had a similar experience. Many thanks

[@ETMotorsports]

Hey thanks for the info... the rings are just one of a thousand different things that can cause oil burning and smoke... valve seals are another common one, pcv etc... have you done a compression check? I'm curious about your cyl3...

[@noelbridgeman99]

Many thanks for that 👍 . Yes it's very likely that the seals are worn but I've gotten around that problem in the past with other cars by stabilising the oil and using the right grade etc but the problem with this car came on suddenly and the level of smoke and oil consumption is quite dramatic and I think is likely a piston ring issue along with other factors. I do intend to do a compression test and I also want to change the pcv. I am starting to see a noticeable reduction in smoke and oil consumption since I did the soak and added B12 to the oil and tank. If the compression was a lot lower in one cylinder compared to the others what would be the significance in terms of burning oil?

[@bridgecommand]

do you rotate the cylinders after the six hour soak - or do you rotate them when the cylinder is full of b12?

[@ETMotorsports]

you can do either...or both...there's no hard rule here...I think both would help - if you rotate right after you put the liquid you can help it move around, if you rotate after it's drained, the soot should be soft so the rings can move around a bit...not that I think about it - just do both :)

[@kspree9649]

Good stuff man keep up the good work I got my first Audi a4 b8 avant 2.0 and I love it been slowly bring her back to life .I just did the rear main seal because I kept getting misfires and heard that a blown rear main can cause vacuum leaks turned out my rear was still good smh 🤷🏻‍♂️ I changed it anyways with upgraded billet one from ecs tuning. Turns out my misfires were from clogged injectors which had a lot of carbon on the tips I had just did valve clean and new injectors 2k miles before.so after watching your vids I’m going to try the soak and see if that stops the clogging. Thanks for posting 👍

[@ETMotorsports]

yeah they're lots of work...keep us posted on your results!

[@kspree9649]

@@ETMotorsports Ok so here’s update after soak. Almost 100 miles and running good with no misfires 🙏🏼 ill keep u posted after i reach 400 💪🏼

[@kspree9649]

@@ETMotorsportsOk just changed oil after driving 480 miles and car is running great🎉🎉🎉 Sounds good and seems like im getting better gas mileage. Thanks again for sharing your experience and knowledge.Do you think a piston soak would work good on a tdi engine ?

[@ETMotorsports]

@kspree9649 yeah it should - if the issues are clogged piston rings for sure

[@danricci6996]

Two quick comments: 1. Even though it should be in tens of thousands (viewer wise) at least you're in the thousands. 2. I was laughing my ass off when I saw you dropping the spark plugs since I saw the comment on Part 1 and I was like "wait a min, WTF is the spark plug gonna hit hard enough that the gap would be affected, specially when the spark plug socket barely fit and he ain't dropping the plugs from Mars".

[@ETMotorsports]

Haha... appreciate it!

[@m8s4lif]

I really believe that the long-term answer for stuck piston rings would be an oil additive that can gradually dissolve the gunk under the rings at the same time will not damage the rest of the engine.

[@ETMotorsports]

I think a lot of folks have tried a lot of additives out there - we're all pretty much desperate to find a cheap solution to this issue but I haven't heard of anything that's permanently fixed it so far...

[@richardneely8697]

​@ETMotorsports you should pull the pulls and drop some new marvel mystery oil synthetic version. It had really good results in my gas 2.0t ford.

[@m8s4lif]

@@ETMotorsports Thank you for your response. Let's hope for the best.

[@glennr9913]

Valvoline has the Restore & Protect oil, but they do not offer it for Audi specs yet. Maybe the 5W30 blend would be okay?

[@craig357]

Great videos. Years ago (I am 54) me and my mates would purchase a cheap bottle of Redex fuel system cleaner. With engine warm we would pull the plugs, pour 50ml down each cylinder, wait 20 mins then with a towel over the plug holes spin the motor. The towel caught all the Redex. Reinstall plugs and start it up. Smoked like hell for a few miles until it all burnt out the back but the engine felt new straight after! Never did an oil change after either! Redex isn't as powerful as B12 I don't think. I wonder if Redline si-1 would work the same as the PEA in it is high and apparently helps dissolve carbon? Apparently that and BG44K are said to be great when added to the fuel system for dissolving carbon out the injectors, valves and combustion chamber.

[@ETMotorsports]

Thanks for the note - I`m sure there are plenty of products that can do this...all you need is a bunch of broken cars to try everything on :) One thing I`m pretty sure though is nothing you add to the fuel will fix the rings...I know they advertise this but there's just no way anything that gets in through the injector will be effective. At the very best you need an oil additive - at least that will get in the rings and not just the top of the piston...

[@Sailorjim43]

I had piston slap but it went away. Changed oil, drove 500 changed oil again. Now I'm at 300 miles, so far so good. I'm now running valvoline restore 5w 30.

[@normanbrown495]

My 2015 A5 has 172750 miles and has started drinking oil to a tune of 1quart every 200 miles/ 300km... Soooo I did the piston soak this weekend and have driven 200 miles and my oil gauge has not moved. By now my system would have alerted me to add a quart. I drive 100 miles a day round trip to work and the most I can get between top offs is 250miles.

[@ETMotorsports]

fingers crossed!

[@nighthawkviper6791]

How is it now?

[@nighthawkviper6791]

I have the 2014 A5 and unfortunately the previous owner let it get to 100K on original Ignition Coils which started the oil consumption problem. So far I haven't had to top up since replacing the plugs, coils, & PCV Valve but I already saw carbon buildup so I know the Piston Rings inlet holes are clogged & the valves are likely built up with carbon...but I'm looking at the maintenance road ahead with this soak. The plugs & coils alone revived the engine immediately so I'll likely see success with the Piston Soak. I'll keep ya posted.

[@grantmccarron3963]

How much are you turning the crank each time? Just a bit, or a full revolution, or...? Thanks! I will try this before my next oil change.

[@ETMotorsports]

Multiple full revolutions... pretty much turn until you get bored

[@samwh4775]

I did the piston soak in my 2010 Audi A4 and I used seafoam, the oil consumption was 1 liter of oil every 500km or so before the piston soak, after the 1st soak it consumed a litre of oil in 300km which I got scared but like you said I did the piston soak a 2nd time in around 14 hours or so and then I’ve driven 300km already and I’ve driven the car hard and it hasn’t consumed any oil, also just to mention my A4 has a big turbo and it also has a catless downpipe, but even though the oil level hasn’t changed, I know my valve stem seals are bad apparently which are most likely affecting the oil consumption but still I can say this worked and I’ll update once I fix the other stuff in my car

[@ETMotorsports]

Awesome...glad the second soak is working out better... How did you figure the seals were leaking? I did them on the A4 before I did the soak thinking that's the cause of all the oil but it did nothing - they were fine after 180k and it's not exactly an easy job - if you're doing it right you'll likely have to go timing too

[@samwh4775]

@@ETMotorsports because whenever I cold start my car, it spits a little bit of oil at the back which someone told me that’s not a piston rings issue it’s most likely the valve seals leaking over night leaving oil in the cylinders and then when I start it in the morning it just dumps it all the way at the back since I’m catless and also my car doesn’t seem to smoke when I’m on the gas pedal which that’s a piston ring sign, mine smokes when I let off the gas and im almost coming to a full stop

[@82_KID]

You could also try some High Performance Lubricants motor oil in there if it is burning some. They are located in mantino Illinois they are an American company and they make some of the finest oils that will clean the rings up really well that's worth a shot too

[@_dremart]

I did it about 500 miles ago, but I drive a lot. So far, oil consumption is reduced but not gone. Maybe I have an issue elsewhere too, who knows. A very weird thing happened after I did my soak and put everything back together. There was a heavy tapping noise which I am assuming was a hydraulic lifter not working properly. I ran the residual B12 that leaked by the rings through the entire engine to try and help break up some crap. The noise disappeared after an oil change shortly after. I dumped in a quart after the sump was drained, leaving the plug out to try and drain a little more old crap. The key here is the compression check, because you will burn oil with a very worn turbo or a bad PCV valve, both of which are somewhat common on these engines from what I have been seeing. It's important to do the compression test first.

[@ETMotorsports]

hmmm - keep an eye on the consumption and let us know if it improves...the Q5 consumption slowed down during the first 5k and now I`m monitoring to see if it gets even better than the reported values...

[@_dremart]

So here's the update, the oil burning was measured in days, rather than miles or kilometers, prior to this. So far, after the initial loss of almost a quart, it hasn't moved after adding more. It still puffs out black smoke under hard acceleration, but nothing visual during idle and apparently not measurable in days like before. I put roughly 500 miles on the car since topping off the oil. I would say the problem is solved for now. even if this is something that has to be done every 30-50k miles, that's not the end of the world. I'll update you again in about a month.@@ETMotorsports

[@poopyheads5720]

Anything update?

[@_dremart]

@@poopyheads5720 seems okay. I drive and idle a lot and it’s about a quart a month. Selling the vehicle now because I just did the claim but now it needs a turbo

[@TehNouk]

I used paint thinner. Almost same ingredients as b12. I used acetone as well. Also I did not run the with painthinner in the oil. Used 2 stroke and gasoline mix in last soak to get some lubrication for the cylinder walls

[@ETMotorsports]

did it work? Yeah another viewer mentioned using acetone directly as well...I guess most solvents would work as long as you're careful about running them in the motor after

[@TehNouk]

@@ETMotorsports It seems to have worked beautifully. I have only driven it 250 km yet, but no noticed oil consumption so far. The engine consumed 1 liter of oil in 500 km before. The engine is a PSA 1.2 puretech engine which is famous for burning a lot of oil. What an easy way to fix an expensive problem :)

[@villearponen7521]

Please post a update after few thousand kms, I'm seeking options to try with my PSA 1.2. Probably going to do it just before wet cam belt change

[@richardsheil5289]

​@@ETMotorsportsthat was me. Berry B12 is 90% acetone

[@richardsheil5289]

​@@villearponen7521I did it on a puretech 1.2. So far so good. But no data yet.

[@gamersroost]

For what it's worth, this issue's root is stemmed in low tension piston rings, the worst PCV system in history and direct injection. The engine is my favorite other than the VR6 of course. Under boost we reburn so much oil vapor, that it slips past the first ring, gets bound between the first and second which leads to hot gasses that are totally saturated with oil vapor (blow by from PCV) it gets to the oil control rings and gums up almost instantly.

If you check the SDS of the B-12 you can see it is basically a nitro thinner. Toulene, Acetone, Methanol are the main ingredients.

[@PeterHernandez-lg2eh]

Just found this. Tnis issue applies to all makes and models. Trying to fix my 2002 Honda accord se with high oil consumption. 1 quart or more a week. Been using b12 with a heavier weight oil . Manufacturer recommends 5w-20 . Going with 15w-40 , then my pour 1 ounce of b12 in each cylinder let soak down and start after verifying with borisscope

[@bradbozarth3235]

I’d suggest just doing this process a few times throughout the course of a month. To make sure you get it all out, probably what I’m going to do.

[@poopyheads5720]

I’m thinking of doing this as routine maintenance before every oil change at 5k miles intervals.

[@bradbozarth3235]

@@poopyheads5720 I think that’s a little much. Maybe every other oil change but I wouldn’t do it every oil change engines are designed to have carbon in it just not as much as these build up

[@edgarnavarro7264]

Hello 👋🏽 great video. I wanted to comment and share my experience with B-12 piston soak. I have a 2001 Honda CRV that was burning oil, unfortunately I can’t remember how much oil it was burning before the B-12 treatment. Before the B-12 treatment my compression was 180, 165, 170, 175. I performed the soak as directed on the B-12 website, I made sure to remove any B-12 liquid from the Cylinders before starting the vehicle to prevent hydrolock however when I went to start the vehicle it wouldn’t turn on, I would hear the engine turning over but with no pressure. I performed another compression test and the numbers were significantly lower. I was very confused. Afterwords I performed a whet compression test and the compression went back up and I noticed that the engine was building pressure so I tried starting the vehicle again while giving it throttle and the CRV turned on with s big puff of white smoke coming out of the muffler. I ran the engine for 15 minutes as directed then I drained the old fluid and refilled with new fluid and new oil filter. I did another compression test and the compression improved. 190, 175, 182, 185. Then engine still burns oil (1qt every 800 miles) After 3,000 miles of driving the oil consumption is still consistent at 1qt for every 800 miles and I did another compression test and my numbers are still pretty identical. So B-12 did improve my piston compression but I’m not to sure if it helped with oil consumption since I didn’t keep record of how much oil it was burning before the B-12 treatment. I’m really curious if anyone has experienced the same thing I did and also if anyone has an idea as to why it happened. I will be doing another piston soak on the next oil change and share results in the future. Thank you ✌🏽

[@ETMotorsports]

tthanks for the note...this doesn't surprise me...a handful of viewers have noted a decrease in compression and the engine running rougher after the first soak. The unfortunate reality of this method is you can't really control what the B12 is "cleaning" so it could just as well affect your compression rings if there's build up there too. That said - consecutive soaks "should" fix this as you keep cleaning build up around the piston rings. I am curious about your results after the second soak. Having done this a few times now, if I saw a decrease in performance after a soak, I would just keep doing a soak every oil change or as required until it's sorted out...might take a few tries depending on the condition of the motor

[@Alexandro345]

I have the 2AZFE in my camry, hopefully this will greatly reduce oil consumption. Going to do the piston soak this weekend.

[@ETMotorsports]

Keep us posted on your results

[@Alexandro345]

@@ETMotorsports Will do, I'm not going to drive it around after though. I'm just going to idle it for about 15 minutes. It's definitely burning oil at a good rate. 500 miles/quart roughly. Don't care to fix the issue entirely, but it would be nice to not have to check it weekly.

[@Alexandro345]

@@ETMotorsports Before the piston soak I drove 80 miles, the oil level dropped maybe 1/10th of a qt. After the soak it's been 200 miles, and the level hasn't budged. It's not the most concrete evidence but I'll take it as a win.

[@joelg6525]

How’s your engine performing now? I have the same engine

[@Alexandro345]

@@joelg6525 Yup. I went from a qt every 400 miles to a qt every 1000 miles. Solid improvement.

[@pdren4080]

Glad to find your videos on this issue and looking to try to perform this on an '09 A4 that has its original rings and pistons. How important is it to turn the engine so that the pistons are approximately on the same level? I would have thought that just adding an equal amount of solvent to each cylinder would be enough, not caring about where the pistons are sitting. By levelling the pistons out, what are you trying to achieve? I plan to move the crank during the soak like you mention.

[@ETMotorsports]

@pdren4080 no need to level them off on the 2.0t you're right... they can be anywhere... do turn the crank every 6 or so hours though - that should help the liquid penetrate better

[@pdren4080]

Great! Thank you for sharing your work on this with the community

[@drivewayacademy]

I think you washing off oil film from cylinders with b12, might be a good idea put tiny bit of oil in cylinders before starting the engine? Might start quicker and be less misfires? I have nissan cube that has blowby issues, i gona give it a go, hope it fixes my rings

[@henriksimonsen6024]

Try, BG Dynamic Platinum Engine Restoration Service Kit

[@SaheedNazir]

I have a 2.0tdi im in the uk liquid molly pro line is easy to get, question was is the whole process you done on q5 have to be done on my diesel engine or do i follow instructions on liquid molly? I want it to be the most effective you see

[@zitoune007]

Great video. I have the same oil consumption issue and I’m looking to do a piston soak. Quick question, when using the starter without the spark plugs, do you remove a fuse to prevent the engine to start? Or you just use the starter without the spark plugs? Thanks.

[@ETMotorsports]

if the plugs are out, the engine won't start...I use the starter at the final stage just before I put the plugs back in to blow any left over crap from the cylinders but ALWAYS spin the motor by hand multiple times before using the starter. If you want to turn off the fuel pump so the injectors aren't firing fuel while cranking you can pull the fuel pump fuse...I personally don't bother and just crank it as is. Once the plugs go back in, the engine will start...

[@simonmarkis]

Report: mine was eating 1qt/1000m. Soaked with 2 bottles over a period of 24 hrs. Lost my 24mm so couldn’t rotate the crank. Took a very long to start. Not much white smoke. So far I did 1000 miles and the oil level (according to the screen) hasn’t dropped yet. When I cranked the engine to get b12 out there was some black stuff that flew out. So far so good

[@ETMotorsports]

So far so good! The black stuff would be all the softened up carbon buildup

[@r.weaver3769]

I don't know exactly what happened to the one failure, but experience says, that engine most likely had caked sludge built up from 100% in town short trips and extended oil changes. Short trips do not burn off moisture that accumulates inside engines. This moisture mixed with oil becomes sludge and solidifies, the B12 breaks down this sludge washes down into oil pan, then gets sucked into pickup tube by oil pump, clogs screen in pickup tube, destroys bearings inside engine. I know this, because I learned this the expensive hard way. Destroyed my cam, cam bearings, rod and main bearings, scored pistons and bores. A used engine was cheaper than rebuilding. Best thing to do before performing, is to check for sludge, if there, do several engine flushes without driving, then drop oil pan to clean all the sand like debris from pan. Or use the BG oil flush kit, either way engine must be clear of all debris before driving.

[@ETMotorsports]

yeah that's a good point...the reality is there's no way to know what the condition of each motor is so there are 1000 things that can go wrong if the motor is in a rough shape...generally speaking if your pickup gets clogged the engine will through a low pressure warning and you can react in time to save the rest of the motor...a few viewers have noted issues after performing this service but there's little details on what the condition of each motor was prior to the service...

[@dotunabimbola7380]

I will definitely try this on my Hyundai accent 2014 i just pray i get this B-12 here in Nigeria

[@ETMotorsports]

keep us posted on your results!

[@sakibhassan9255]

Hello, so I am currently doing the 24 hour cycle at the moment just done the first 6 hours. I have a 2009 a4 2.0tfsi and it been doing a litre every 180-300 miles. Just to clarify at the start level the pistons and equally use 1 bottle of b12 across the 4 cylinders and leave it for 6 hours and then at the 6 hour mark rotate crank however many times and then repeat the first step with just topping up and leave it again and repeat until 24 hour mark or am I topping up and then cranking again and repeating. ( basically cranking then topping up or topping up and then cranking or topping up and then cranking and then topping up again?)

[@ETMotorsports]

Honestly no wrong answer here... either works...i think top up and crank makes more sense as you'll have liquid that can penetrate

[@alkazhaks_zw1494]

Im impressed by the this idea.can this work on a scooter also please let me know.my bike have white smoke.

[@ETMotorsports]

No reason why it shouldn't work... but white smoke is usually coolant

[@GioODelacruz]

brother I have a big question, I want to use this method with my 2015 2.5 L jetta, it consumes 1 liter of oil every 1000 km like many here, however my car does not emit smoke, if I do this it is likely that my car will start to emit smoke forever?

[@ETMotorsports]

hey they don't all smoke...my sister's Q5 did, but my A4 didn't for some odd reason...with the amount of oil they go through I'd be expecting a solid trail of smoke at any time... all to say that just because the car isn't smoking doesn't mean it's not having these issues as well...if you've checked all common sources of loss like PCV, leaking seals etc. and everything checks out, then you should give this a try...I haven't done a 5cyl yet but it's an inline motor so should be pretty much the same process as the 2.0T with a bit more liquid for the 5th cylinder

[@GioODelacruz]

@@ETMotorsports Thanks brother, in these months I'm going to try it and I'll tell you how it goes.

[@mouad3858]

I would like to thank you first of all for your efforts and your instructed videos. I tried to do a piston soak with b12 on a 2009 audi a4 manual, as expected and as showed on your videos it took a little bit of time to start afterwards, once started I kept it running stationary for a little bit, normal smoke as your videos were showing, then took it for a drive but after like 500 meters, the engine seems to lose power, even hitting gas all the way wasn’t doing anything and also the engine became louder, and kinda rattling sound. Couldn’t move the car and it was shaking too much thought it might be just a misfire, got the sparks plugs out to check them, they were clean enough. Put in new spark plugs and the problem was still there, the car kinda has a hard time turning on and sometimes I’ll have to hit gas a little bit for it to turn on but even when it does start, there’s still that noise kinda coming from the left side of the engine and also kinda hear like an air leak ( air filter, turbo, down pipe…) and the rpm isn’t steady and and if I try to move the car it shuts down. Smoke is still coming out from the exhaust and smells more like a mix of b12 and oil burning. Any idea on how or what happened exactly and how to fix it? Thank you.

[@ETMotorsports]

hey sorry for the issues you're having...kinda hard to diagnose this - if you have an air leak from somewhere that would explain the rough idle and the hard starts...any codes? this could be a ton of different issues...

[@mouad3858]

@@ETMotorsports also got a P0300 and a P2310

[@ETMotorsports]

@@mouad3858 2310 is a coil code, 0300 is misfire... check your coils to make sure they're seated correctly

[@John-jf7uk]

It is entirely possible that the B-12 which has drained into the engine oil is what dissolves the carbon, sludge, etc. on the oil control rings once the car is driven after the soak, not the soak itself. B-12 sitting on top of the piston is going to seek the most direct path down, likely the gaps in the compression rings and whatever side of the cylinder is lowest. It is unlikely that the B-12 will spread evenly around the rings. So, pouring two cans of B-12 directly into the oil filler may be just as effective as the soak. Worth considering is how the lubrication properties of the engine is compromised by diluting it considerably with this powerful solvent, and how engine longevity may suffer as a result of seeking short-term improvement in oil consumption. Would you pour two quarts of acetone, toluene, etc. into your oil and then drive around? That is what one is doing with this process.

[@ETMotorsports]

Tried many many many times by many many many people... zero effect unless directly introduced to the rings through the top of the piston...

[@HighlineGroupVT]

Another success story, at this point we are at 1500 miles and with zero consumption after the cylinder soak. My sons Audi Allroad 2.o was consuming 1 qt/400-500 miles. I will be curious if we see any consumption and if so after how many miles. I am super psyched. Curiosities for discussion- Should we consider doing this proactively the these cars hit around 100K? What are peoples thoughts about cylinders that held fluid vs which had dissipated? Ours seemed random even though I had lightly reinstalled plugs to prevent evaporation as a variable. I will say mine start up much easier and ran better much sooner than in the videos that I have seen(I was happy about that) but wonder what would be the differences. Thanks again for sharing this, saved me a lot of stress. I do have a new PCV which I will change early in the spring, I was going to do it first but did not want to introduce a variable in this controlled process of the soak.

[@ETMotorsports]

Awesome - glad it worked! All good questions- so far I haven't seen any correlation between which cylinders drain faster... in fact on mine it was different every time I poured liquid...I suppose with enough time and maybe a bad engine that's out of the car we can investigate by taking the pistons out first to check the initial state...

[@HighlineGroupVT]

@@ETMotorsports part of me wonders if it is just slight differences in position against the walls or perhaps as material dissolves in one or the other. there did not seem to be any consistency when I added b12 second or 3rd times in the process, they were all over the place.

[@ETMotorsports]

@@HighlineGroupVT yeah same here... all over the place

[@r.weaver3769]

Also Diesel or Kerosine works, just more care must be taken as these clean better than B12, but stand higher chance of harming bearings or clogging oil screen in oil pickup tube to oil pump, blocking oil pressure to engine if a lot of sludge is present.

[@ETMotorsports]

yeah diesel is an easy alternative...it's also a lubricant so not too terrible to run through the motor

[@GAdavidh]

When manually cranking the engine, do you turn the crank Clockwise or Counter Clockwise

[@numus1727]

I have a2009 2.0t and have burning issues too. So far it is going though 1ltr of oil every 400km (the engine has 95k on it). I have just bought everything I need to try this after watching your videos (and Daves too). Now just gotta find time where I can get 24 hours to try this out. Very excited, and will report back. One question I have though, after your final soak is done with your second can of b12, you start cranking the car over using the starter motor (without spark plugs) to ensure there is no risk of hydro locking the engine. During this crank, do you remove your fuse/relay for the fuel pump? Or is it OK to have fuel being injected during this crank cycle. Thanks

[@ETMotorsports]

I didn't take mine out so the injectors were firing but it's better to take it out...it won't hurt anything but you're just wasting fuel and spraying it in your garage if you keep the fuse in... keep us posted on your results!

[@numus1727]

@@ETMotorsports thanks for the reply! Keep up the great work by the way, your videos are super helpful. Will post results once I am all done.

[@emailjwr]

​@@numus1727how'd your soak go?

[@numus1727]

I just found time to finally do this over the weekend. My notes on the process: - Hand cranking the engine takes a lot longer than I thought! But I highly recommend doing this step as after my first soak (and a 6 hour wait) 3 of the 4 cylinders had no b12 in them. The last cylinder gurgled a lot during the cranking which lead me to believe this was the one that had the stuck ring given the fluid was still present and had not made its way down into the sump. This also happened to be the piston with a wet spark plug. All others were dry. I believe the cranking loosened the soot in that cylinder/oil ring from that first crank. - The 2nd, 3rd, and 4th soak all cylinders ended up being empty which was a good sign. At each soak I added b12 at the 6 hours interval and then cranked the engine approximately 5-7 rotations after. - When the soak was complete I was fairly nervous and used the starter motor to turn the engine for a total of 60 seconds to evacuate all liquid that was present. Pro tip - put an old towel or rag over the spark plug holes to catch the soot that comes out. I didn't remove the fuel pump fuse as I did not feel it to be necessary. - Sparks plugs went back in as did coil packs etc and then it was the moment of truth. The car took about 4 attempts to start and when it came to life there was a bit of smoke, a very VERY rough idle for 15 mins and definitely a lot of mis-firing. I even had to rev the engine up to 2500/3000rpm to keep it alive at some points. I thought perhaps I had done something wrong (not replaced sparks or coils properly) so decided shut off the engine after the full 15mins. I ran it this long to give the b12 a chance to make its way through all the oil channels and to clean up the engine a little. Before taking it all apart though I figured I would start the car once more and it actually ran fine right from the get go. No more misfiring and it was a smooth idle. - After a quick oil + filter change I have now driven ~200km and car is noticeably smoother. It seems to have a little more torque when moving off a red light. Not a whole lot but it definitely feels like the car is gliding during that first bit of acceleration. Perhaps I had low compression before and did not know. I dont have a compression tool so was not able to measure before and after. - Perhaps too soon to tell if there is any major improvement but after a day and 200km of travel the oil level has not dropped. Previously after 200km of travel the oil guage would have dropped by between 1/4 to 1/3. So far this is looking promising and I am very happy. Even if the oil is still burning a little, the increase power and smoothness has been very much appreciate. Thanks again @ETMotorsports

[@Wolfnap313]

I have a misfire on my ea888 and have narrowed it to pistons as cyl 4 is much lower than the rest. Think this would help?

[@ETMotorsports]

It might... if the cylinder is having issues with compression and stuck rings

[@Wolfnap313]

@@ETMotorsports so after following this the compression on cyl 4 went from 60 to 91psi, the other cyl’s went from 120-125 up to 135 across the board. I think I’ll do it again on just 4 and hope it gets better.

[@valmondgallant7365]

HI, I enjoy watching your video good job . i was wondering if you were to use diesel high detergent oil as your everyday oil ( not a treatment) would that prevent this problem from happening again?

[@ETMotorsports]

No way to know for sure but these engines have pretty specific oil spec requirements so running diesel oil may cause other issues in the long run

[@jedidiahbirchard6977]

If you happen to come across another oil burning engine, Valvoline has a new oil line called restore & protect. It claims to remove 100% of contaminated oil deposits. I’d be very interested in a comparison video between that oil and this process to test their claims

[@ETMotorsports]

How fast does it work though? If it takes 50k km to "restore" the motor it doesn't do is very good... and they won't be running harsh detergents in or they risk long term damage...

[@jedidiahbirchard6977]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/oarci3edncyXeassi=tyfcj1_FhtldQF4m Here’s a link to a video where Lake Speed Jr. talks with the developers of the oil, somewhere in the video they mentioned that cleaning occurs in a number of engine hours that is substantially less than a oil change interval. I don’t remember precise numbers. I also don’t know if it’s available in 5w40, if it was only available in 5w30 I probably wouldn’t want to run it for a full oil change interval anyway. But if it cleans as well as they say it can as quickly as they say it can, it could be interesting to see if it could offer comparable results to the b12 process you shared in your videos.

[@bobreese4807]

I saw that video. from lake Speed. I have a 2017 KIA Sorento 2.4L that had a dealer piston soak at 65K miles...still used too much oil. Kia wants them to do another piston soak. I am at 69K miles. I just talked to the service manager yesterday and asked if I can put BG EPR 109 in and do a flush right before I drop off the vehicle, let them do their NON B12 piston soak and then fill the oil with Valvoline restore & protect instead of what they usually fill (5W30 DEXOS gen 2) He said OK. I don't expect Valvoline to clean up the carbon fast, I just want it to prevent further sticking. Valvoline is supposed to take 4 oil changes to get back to clean mode..by itself. I wish I knew about this piston soak a long time ago when my son had a VW Passat that used lots of oil.

[@willm2624]

After the 12hr first soak, do you recommend turning the motor by hand or can I turn the car over using the starter? If by hand, do you know the size of the crank nut? Thanks for all your input!

[@willm2624]

Ignore this, you explained it already!

[@pontymighton]

Hi. Great videos, thank you! Does your Audi have a painted oil pan? If so - has a paint been damaged by B12? I have a 14 Camry 2.5 which consumes ~1,5 l of oil per 5000 kms. I'm planning to perform a piston soak but afraid to damage the oil pan paint. It could clog the oil pickup and lead to oil starvation which is kaput (that's, I suppose, what happened to your viewer, who never provided any details about his negative experienece on soaking). Thanks again.

[@ETMotorsports]

Hmm interesting question... keep in mind B12 is very diluted by the time it gets to your oil pan so I highly doubt it'll strip your paint... even paint stripper usually takes a while to flake up paint... when they say not to put that on paint it's not because it'll peel it off it just usually dulls it up kinda thing... similar to brake cleaner - it won't strip your paint but it'll leave some stains

[@pontymighton]

@@ETMotorsports Thank you for your response. I think, I'll give it a shot. But since I have no garage, I'll have to wait until spring comes and weather gets a little bit warmer. I will certainly post an update once it's done.

[@deanchads]

RESULT! Audi 2.0 tfsi 2010. Had the engine rebuilt by Audi at 73k for oil consumption under warrenty. Has been fine for years and began smoking and consuming oil, 138k miles and 1 litre per 650 miles. Change turbo seals as oil consumption seemed intermittent, no change. New PCV as mine was original, no change. Carried out a £26 piston ring carb clean as above.... no oil loss in 700 miles. I would't run the engine too long with the chem tool in, too risky. For £26 it's worth trying!

[@ETMotorsports]

Awesome results! Hmm I'm surprised a rebuilt engine caused issues...I had a b8 a4 rebuilt from Audi at 110k - did burn a drop at 190

[@psdaengr911]

Do you think that B12 put on the back of the valves through a removed intake manifold would be an effective soak for cleaning the valves?

[@ETMotorsports]

definitely...that thing dissolves the carbon very well...the carbon buildup on top of the valves usually requires a bit of manual intervention though. After a soak you`ll still need a good brush in there to clean up the tops - soak alone won't do it...

[@SoHov-z9u]

I can't do all these things. Can I add several of this additive to my gas tank several times and get the same results?

[@ETMotorsports]

@@SoHov-z9u no - it'll have no effect at all

[@muzicsean76]

Could you tell me how many times do you crank the engine over to evacuate the B12 out of the cylinders before installing the spark plugs ?

[@ETMotorsports]

Keep going until you can't see liquid shooting out... unless you pull the fuel pump fuse you'll see some gas coming out too but it's a small amount

[@Exray737]

Mission failed successfully! So the car is 2013 a5 facelifted 2.0 tfsi (gen3 engine) I’ve used xylene, acetone, methanol and atf mixed(all 1 part equally) I kind of did it in an aggressive way i guess? 24h interval for 6 days and 200ml for each cylinder. I dont have the tools or means to do it your way, so what i did is, i used a pump to suck the “clean oil” then did the soak without hand cranking it. Everyday i used starter to crank after the 24h interval is done. Removed what was in the bottom of oil pan, then closed the whole thing and put back the “clean oil” 30min of driving, 1 day later got it to the shop i’m working with, changed the oil and DING! Low effin oil pressure! We checked the oil filter and it was basically clean as it can be. Checked the oil pump, it was stuck at low pressure mode! Oil pan was quite grimy as well, so we cleaned that up, put a new oil pump, put a new filter and fresh oil for engine flush. Then new filter new oil and it was done. Back then it was consuming 1lt every 500km, currently i’ve used the car for 500km and mmi says there is no noticable oil loss, looks full. I’ll let you guys know when it gets to “one level below full” and “add 1lt of oil” mark. Thank you for the videos!

[@ETMotorsports]

Hmm good news sort of lol... at least you knew what you were doing with the pump and didn't damage the motor... I'm curious about the pump being stuck though - couldn't free it up? Maybe the valve was stuck? The oil pump isn't terrible to do on these and not that expensive but still better not to have to mess with it... keep us posted on the final results

[@Exray737]

Forgot to mention that it has 185k km on it. These being said, i had a a thermostat being stuck open for short period, i’ve used the car as is but it wasn’t reaching the optimum operating temps. Meaning all the km’s i’ve done like that may have caused the carbon buildup at first place. I do a lot of short trips as well. So if your engine is not reaching optimum temp. you guys better sort it out as fast as possible lol

[@Exray737]

190k km update, currently my father has the car. When i visited them i checked the oil level and it still had 1 bar missing from mmi oil level, which i guess is 100ml missing. I asked him if he added any oil and he said he didnt. So 5000km and it burned/leaked 100ml of oil! Thank you for the videos!

[@aybcd]

i have just bought 2 cans of b12 on ebay from the manufacturer, they are shipping this 2 cans for 20USD + actual price to Budapest, Hungary.

[@Philou9277]

hello to you, not finding B12 in Europe, I bought 1 liter of Liqui Moly ProLine Engine Flush to replace the B12, do you advise me to use Liqui Moly with your process over 24 hours or put it in oil , run the engine at idle for 20 minutes and then drain please? thank you again for your work

[@ETMotorsports]

Yeah that's what I would try...basically replace B12 with Proline engine flush - hopefully it's strong enough to have similar effects... keep us posted on your results - a few other people have asked about using LiquiMoly as well

[@Philou9277]

@ETMotorsports ok thank you very much, don't wait for my results because I will do it at the beginning of 2024, I don't use my car much at the moment, it's a V6 TFSI supercharger so I wonder if it poses a problem to do with a V engine, 2 banks of cylinders, 1-2-3 and 4-5-6?

[@ETMotorsports]

@@Philou9277 no shouldn't be an issue - we have multiple viewers who have been successful with their 3.0T

[@Philou9277]

@@ETMotorsports last little question, the top of the pistons is well scalded, could this pose a problem after the 24 hour treatment?

[@zaytoony]

So, how did it go? As I type the b12 is soaking my pistons, i'm half an hour away from the 1st six hours!@@Philou9277

[@sbond1963]

If the oil consumption is only minimally resolved with engine flushes and piston soaks, the problem is likely not stuck rings. Stuck rings are a symptom of the actual problem, which is clogged piston oil return holes. During operation, the piston wipes oil on the side of the cylinder walls for lubrication. That oil is supposed to drain back down into the sump through drain holes in the piston. If the holes get clogged, which is not hard to do because of their size and heat, the oil has nowhere to go. It becomes part of combustion. Leaving carbon from oil burning behind. so the clogged oil channels cause carbon buildup on the rings which gets them stuck. Once clogged, there is no flow into the piston oil return holes, so there is no chemical way to clean them . The real answer to this problem which affects Audi, Chevrolet Toyota is piston modification. The pistons need to be removed, the oil return halls cleaned out and enlarged. And you can add holes. You do that you will never have a problem with oil consumption again. Google pictures of the Audi pistons for reference. You will see the holes I’m talking about.

[@Badjujubee]

Stihl Decarbonizer also will work in a pinch

[@kenetic1228]

At the moment I don’t have a garage. Is it possible to just add B 12 or Seafoam to the crankcase and ride 500 miles then get oil change? It has to help a little.

[@brianconnelly7823]

I would not do this, both of those products are thinners which means that your oil will be nowhere near the required level of viscosity, and it will most likely destroy your engine. It also won't help as the problem is the piston rings and to help you need to soak them from above

[@ETMotorsports]

yeah I agree with the previous comment...although I have run Seamfoam for a longer flush before....you can add some to your oil (say 100ml) and drive around with it for a bit...unfortunately while this will clean up a lot of build-up from your motor I don't think it will do much for the rings

[@GusMahn]

As I’ve read it Seafoam is a pale (light) oil with Naptha and alcohol. The solvents will evaporate very quickly. I don’t see this doing much good, though I doubt it’ll damage the engine.

[@gigitumanishvili4918]

Love the video, I have 2014 1.8 TSI passat is there a chance that this solution will be helpfull for me too? It burns around 1 liter per 600 miles I need just an opinion

[@ETMotorsports]

Yup - pretty much the same engine... in fact you shouldn't be having these problems because they were apparently fixed in 2014 but many viewers have reported oil burning issues on later motors...

[@gigitumanishvili4918]

@@ETMotorsports Thank you for the reply and the videos!