NO Balsa Core? Testing ENCAPSULATED Back Plates - E008

The search continues for this elusive balsa deck core…
Do you have any encapsulated backing plates on your boat? Ever wondered what kind of shape they are in, what they are made of, or how you might improve or repair them?
I discuss a few methods that I am using as I continue my complete refit and restoration of a 1989 Liberty 458 cruising sailboat.
Helpful Products in this video:
Marine DeBond Adhesive Remover
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Glazier’s Pry Bar
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Recommended Playlists:
Watch our journey from the very beginning!
• Restoring the Antidote.
Recommended playlist for other AWESOME boat refits:
• I QUIT! … to fix up an...
CLICK TO TWEET THIS VIDEO: ctt.ac/2nEf2
Connect with me:
Email: livingforsail (at) gmail.com
Instagram: / livingforsail
Facebook: / livingforsail
Twitter: / livingforsail
0:00 - Welcome to the Boat Shed
0:48 - Removing the Staysail Fitting
3:24 - How to Inspect and Repair Encapsulated Backing Plates
5:19 - Verify Present Condition
7:58 - Determine What Material Was Used
11:28 - Planning For Repairs
15:57 - Cutting Further Into the Deck
19:02 - What Did We Find??
KZbin Video URL: • NO Balsa Core? Testing...
*Affiliate Disclaimer:
I’ve provided some affiliate links in this video description that allow you to find some of the items mentioned in this video. If you decide to use the links, it supports the channel a bit at no extra cost to you. You, the viewer, are in no way obligated to use these links. Thank you for your support!
Video hashtags:
#livingforsail #boatwork #sailboatrefit

[@livingforsail]

Do you have encapsulated backing plates on your boat? How are they holding up? Share your stories here...!

[@francismontocchio9910]

This is one of the very best sailboat refit blogs out there. I really like your sensible, engineering-based approach and your view to future safety on board. Your videos are really instructive and entertaining. Thank you.

[@livingforsail]

Thank you so much for the encouragement. That’s very appreciated!! I’m glad you enjoyed the video! See you in the next one I hope. Cheers. 🙏👍🙌

[@kaybax4623]

I am really enjoying and learning from your meticulous deconstructions and explanations. Thank you for the effort to record your work and produce these videos.

[@livingforsail]

Hi. Thank you so much for your feedback. I’m very happy to hear that you are enjoying the content. Cheers! 🙏🙌👍

[@soapysails]

I have worked on and repaired a good deal of sailboats. Like most builders and repair folks, I watch several channels on the subject. Your presentations show and explain your efforts as good or better then most. After only three episodes I have picked up a bit more useful knowledge thanks mate.

[@livingforsail]

Right on. I’m happy to hear that. Thank you for the feedback! 🙏👍

[@jonunya3128]

clever diagnosis of the material buried in the bulwarks.

[@livingforsail]

Thank you 🙏 👍🙌

[@jonmengham3525]

Love your approach. I'm not just entertained but am learning a lot from your videos.

[@livingforsail]

Hey, thanks a lot for the feedback! 👍🙏🙌

[@scottcates]

I absolutely love upsizing threaded fasteners when an existing solution has failed. Helicoils are nice for some applications but a larger diameter fastener does essentially the same thing but stronger. Good Call!

[@livingforsail]

Yeah, if you can get away with the extra space I agree ! 👍👍

[@extremelydave]

Good lord John, you need to find a place to clone yourself about 15=20 timesto get a crew together to get the beast done before I die..... Fixer upper is a colossal understatement..... It is very cool how you explain things....we get a good idea of what and why you're going thru what is a complicated process. Keep the videos coming and I hope you get some clones!!

[@livingforsail]

Thanks. Haha😂

[@neilmcalester]

That was seriously educational, thank you.

[@livingforsail]

Thank you for watching! 🙏👍🙌

[@michaelb.barnett2225]

John: First kudos on your shed very nice to work in. When pouring epoxy, use foil tape holds better than painters tape and easy to remove when epoxy dries. Nice boat, you are doing a great job! Barney

[@livingforsail]

Thank Barney! I appreciate the tip. Cheers!! 🙏👍🙌

[@user-lb1fe9to9g]

This episode once again showcases why you have one of the best channels out there!!! Who talks about the torque specs for bolts? Yet, when it comes to the potential life-and-death integrity of stanchions, it matters...something I would not have thought of until you explained it. This isn't a KZbin "channel." This is a Master Class on the mechanical engineering behind sailboat restoration. Thank you so much for sharing your outstanding expertise!!

[@livingforsail]

Thanks Shawn. I really value the continued support! I’m glad that you’re enjoying the content! 🙏👍🙌

[@scottwhite2379]

When tapping multiples the drill is your friend. Chuck up the tap and set the clutch. Your wrist will love it.

[@livingforsail]

I’ve never tried the drill with the tap… maybe I’m just too scared to snap one off. Maybe I’ll try one but if it breaks you owe me a beer… 🤣🍻

[@scottwhite2379]

@@livingforsail the clutch stops the breaking part, as well as the breaking of the wrist part.

[@livingforsail]

@@scottwhite2379 good call. I’ll give it a try.

[@scottwhite2379]

@@livingforsail if it works and you end up on the cost of Maine, give me a shout and ill come down. Maybe you can get me up on some skies behind that thing.

[@livingforsail]

@@scottwhite2379 sounds good!

[@southernpaths2986]

I watch a lot of refit videos and most of them (Mads, Aladino, Andy… I’m looking at y’all!) are very well done and I feel like they really know what they’re doing. Others? Well, not so much. You’re definitely in the first group. Looking forward to more videos in the future!!

[@livingforsail]

Hey. I’m framing this one! Thanks for the encouragement. I look up to all three of those guys and have been so fortunate to connect with them. To be compared with them is an Honor! Cheers! 🙏🙏🙏👍👍👍🙌🙌🙌

[@mr.e7022]

I enjoy your videos as an ex(?) engineer.

[@Chris-NZ]

Ditto, retired Civil 😀

[@livingforsail]

I studied Mechanical engineering and worked in the automotive field for the last 15 years. I don’t think there is such a think as an “ex” engineer … 😳😂🙌

[@livingforsail]

I appreciate the feedback. Thank you 🙏

[@jonwrcongo]

@@livingforsailgreat reply to that string!

[@andrewmoylan6295]

Hi John , It's great to have you back, mate. I suspected that the deck was water logged, so I feel you will have to strip the lot. Better get yourself a good pair of knee pads. So much work for you but the end result will be special. Keep at it .Cheers

[@livingforsail]

Yep. It’s a lot of work but it will be worth it in the end. Glad to see you back for another one. Cheers! 🙏👍🙌

[@andrewmoylan6295]

@livingforsail my pleasure. I can't wait for your next vlog, John...got my brother on board as well ...go hard mate

[@BHaskins]

Glad you were able to tap them. I always used the HELOC oils as the last resort on my street rod projects. The wet plywood sucks!! Hope it’s not like that on the entire length.

[@livingforsail]

Thanks Bill. At least the wet plywood is easy to remove! Haha. 🙌👍

[@beaconbus]

I am very impressed with the thorough, methodical way that you addressed the backing plates!

[@livingforsail]

Thanks a lot. I appreciate the feedback. I wonder if this stuff will land with people sometimes so it’s always nice to hear from people that like to hear the theory and planning. Cheers! 🙏🙌👍

[@beaconbus]

@@livingforsail I am beginning a refit on a 1971 Contest 33 and learn a good deal from this type of content. Thanks!

[@livingforsail]

@@beaconbus right on! All the best with your refit!!

[@ShinLeeChan]

I think that this channel has so much potential, there is just one thing that you should improve, 20 mins of vid to just two small achievements, basically much talking and very low amount of actions. Don't misunderstand me, I love also the torque details, material thickness and so on, just find a balance between talking time and action time. Nothing to say about quality, for a new channel the quality and details and amazing.

[@livingforsail]

Thanks for the constructive feedback. I appreciate it and agree with what you’re saying. I am trying to improve all of the content in the videos. The hard part is finding the time to actually do the work to put in the videos!🤣

[@robertscholz4486]

As always a well done episode. I was glad to see you chose to drill out and up-size the hardware for the stanchions in stead of opting for the Heli-Coil solution. I'm still left with one issue though before I would spend all of this time drilling and tapping ... how do you know what material was used behind the fiberglass to provide structure for the backing plates to flex against-- what is the composition of the bulwarks? Based on what has been seen at the bow so far, the boat has suffered from significant intrusion of water as evidenced from the soaked plywood. Unless you have other information, I would assume that during the construction of the bulwarks, a central core most likely of wood was used to form the basic structure, and then it was fiberglassed over with multiple layers. The backing plates were then added in and glassed over. What bothers me is that the wet plywood was likely in contact with the base of that wood core, which might have allowed the core to wick in moisture (that rusted bolt that you took out could also have compromised the strength of the bulwark in similar fashion). At the very least I would buy a good moisture meter and check the moisture readings both at the stanchion mounts and dead center between them to compare and see if you can detect a difference in moisture content. If there is a rotted wood core in there, then the torque that is exerted by pushing at the top of the stanchion does not have an adequate anchoring point and over a couple of incidents may crack the fiberglass around the stanchion base with flexing. A solution to this would be to cut out and replace the core around the stanchion points with a Divinycell or Coosa board and re-bed the backing plates in the process -- more work, but "better safe than sorry!

[@livingforsail]

Good feedback. Thank you. I will try to get more info on the construction of the bulwark. I believe that the wood is on the hull side and the deck side of the bulwark (which is around 2” thick) was just filled with resin so the backing plates may be I. A solid slurry of resin. Some are wet… that rusted bolt came out of a plate closer to the chainplates. I may just have to cut in to be sure but the glass on the deck side of the bulwark is in good shape. No cracks or evidence of flexing. My thought is if the bolts snug up to that stiff glass, we are probably good as new. I’ll keep thinking about it. Thanks! 🤔🙌

[@mckenziekeith7434]

If it doesn't come up just torch it. You can also drag a fine wire between the deck and the fitting.

[@livingforsail]

I like the fine wire idea. I’ll give that a try. Thanks! 👍🙌

[@gmoose777]

Great video Jon and as usual well thought out repair process, The helicoils are great and if all the bolts were the same and only one or two dodgy ones I would use helicoils every time but considering the mixed threads the drill and tap option is the only logical choice,don't forget the tefgel on installation. cheers

[@livingforsail]

Thank you and yes!!! Great point! Tef Gel is a must before splashing and I should have included that point!! I’ll be sure to mention that when doing final installs. Thanks for the feedback! 🙏🙌👍

[@soarrich]

I'm looking at the wood you are calling plywood and I see end-grain balsa. A trick I used to get a part off that was 5200ed on was to use dental floss as a thin saw, today I think I would use some of the new super fishing line like Yo-zuri super braid.

[@livingforsail]

I like the fishing line idea! Maybe a guitar string would work well using the same principle! Thanks for sharing the tip! As for the wood, this is all plywood so far. Ive spent enough time on the wrong end of a chisel to know the difference… stick around as we work back further and I think we will hit some balsa eventually. Cheers!

[@martyb3783]

Great video! Your engineering background is showing. I loved the idea of a continuity test. Brilliant. Retapping the hole is what I would have done also. I wonder how thick the backing plate is. That might have changed the bolt thread selection. Its interesting to me that the plywood under the fiberglass is in tiles like a parquet floor. Why is that? It seems to me that a solid piece of marine plywood would be stronger. Anyway, this is a very interesting video. Thanks for making it!

[@livingforsail]

Thank you. The plywood does resemble old parquet flooring. From what I’ve heard from Bob Perry, this was how they built a lot of decks in the 80s and it was a way to utilize scrap material … 🤷‍♂️🤦‍♂️. I’m sure it did fine during the warranty period…

[@TheCorsair]

Another great video. Super informative. Thanks!

[@livingforsail]

Thanks for the feedback! I’m glad you enjoyed it. Cheers. 🙏🙌👍

[@SSully1976]

This was great ❤😊

[@livingforsail]

Thank you! 🙏👍🙌

[@jimscheltens2647]

It would be useful and interesting to hear rough estimates of how many hours it took you to do certain tasks. I was interested in how long it took to remove the cap rails and teak decking.

[@livingforsail]

That’s a good thought. It will likely vary a lot from boat to boat depending g on how things were done. Some of the cap rail came off easy, other sections were an hour for a 6’ section. It’s so variable… The teak is probably similar. I read horror stories of needing to chip off every inch with a chisel but mine peeled up pretty nicely.

[@csisk]

Solid content.

[@livingforsail]

Thank you! 🙏👍🙌

[@alanmcn17]

Wow awesome video I learned so much

[@livingforsail]

Thanks a lot. I’m glad that you enjoyed it! 👍

[@peterfrebold]

.... you have certainly done research before taking this on and know what to look for. Also curious to see what fuels your optimism that you still will be finding balsam .... thx for the share .. as always .. never stop dreaming, just dream bigger .. have fun be safe, save our oceans .....

[@livingforsail]

I was hoping that balsa would be easier to remove. Especially from under the bulwark at the deck edges. We will see… Thanks for the feedback again! Much appreciated. 🙏👍🙌

[@peterfrebold]

@@livingforsail ..... Yes! .. would imagine removing the balsa would be easier ... thx for your reply ..... make it an wonderous week .....

[@grinningfool34]

Restoring a boat of this size and condition seems like a monumental task. I admire the courage and ambition that you possess to tackle such a huge undertaking. I fear that if I were to take on such a project, there’s a good chance it would never get finished. Or I’d run out of money.

[@martyb3783]

I was thinking the exact same thing.

[@livingforsail]

Anything can happen… this is the biggest project that I have taken on in my life. The reason I am doing it now is because I have dreamed of it and I like ambitious projects and I’m confident that we can get it done. Every day is a gift so I just keep working towards the goal. Running out of $$$ is certainly a possibility 😳

[@Anne6621]

it's only a lot of hard work if it's not done right the first time and be sure the work exceeds the factory work and solving the issues caused by poor engineering and penny pinching by the bean counters

[@martyb3783]

@@livingforsail Looks like your viewership is growing, I hope that helps at least. :)

[@livingforsail]

@@Anne6621 My thoughts exactly! 🙏👍🙌

[@svlamancha9877]

Great project I am looking forward to following a long. Good luck with it and I’ve just subscribed. 👍

[@livingforsail]

Hi. Welcome aboard! I appreciate the support! 🙏👍🙌

[@cameronurquhart1515]

Brilliant video. I'm learning so much just by watching you. I like your methodical approach to each issue and the way you explain what you intend to do. Cheers from Australia.

[@livingforsail]

Thank you! I appreciate the feedback. Nice to hear from you from Australia! 🙏🙌👍

[@owenwanamaker6208]

I appreciate the depth you go into with tools, repair options and why you choose the way you are going to repair it. I was in Bellingham this last week the weather is fantastic!!!!

[@livingforsail]

Thank you very much! I appreciate the feedback and yes. The weather has been amazing!!

[@neilrush659]

Hey, great video bro, really enjoy how you diagnose the different materials and then go forward to a fix. Boats are complicated things, I'd be way out of depth that's for sure but you seem to tackle these jobs with such ease. Well done also on the explanations of what you're doing, very very informative. Keep it going 😊☘

[@livingforsail]

Thanks a lot for the feedback. I appreciate that. Glad to have you aboard for the refit. Cheers. 🙏👍🙌

[@haydenwatson7987]

Debond does not soften the 5200. it makes it let go and that is what happened. You did not pull any gelcoat up, so I would say that it worked. 😉

[@livingforsail]

Yeah, Always happy to leave the gelcoat in place. Thanks for the feedback!

[@larrygawne3529]

Really like your approach to issues and the solutions well explained. As an engineer appreciate your approach. What material will you use for the replacement of the plywood ? If you do finally find balsa what difference would it make if it is wet? Looking forward to next post.

[@livingforsail]

Good questions. I plan on using a new core that is NOT susceptible to water damage. I’ll speak more about that in upcoming videos. My hope was that the balsa would be mushier and easier to remove… I don’t expect to be able to reuse any of the core at this point based on the amount of water I have found so far… Thanks for the feedback! 🙏👍🙌

[@ericd7975]

Love your Chanel. Really interesting, great presenting, very knowledgeable . Overall , very entertaining . I hope more people find your Chanel as it definitely one worth finding. Can’t wait for the next episode

[@livingforsail]

Thank you for that vote of support. It is much appreciated!! Hope to see you again for the next one! Cheers! 🙌👍

[@ianmyhill5156]

Really enjoying these videos and especially the detailed explanations/science of the process that you are using or trying out to fix the issues. Looking forward to next week! Thanks

[@livingforsail]

Thanks so much for the feedback! Much appreciated! For now we are going to be releasing videos every two weeks (one man operation over here learning the ropes as we go 🤣). See you in a couple weeks! 🙏👍🙌

[@davenewland4675]

No stanchion could be expected to withstand the force that can be developed by a human body being thrown against a lifeline. The stanchion nearest the impact will completely fail (and probably soften the shock load) in order to spread the load amongst the other stanchions. The lifeline can take thousands of pounds of force for a reason.

[@livingforsail]

I agree. So let’s make them as strong as they were originally intended to be 😉👍

[@jamesdavis2284]

Great video Jon! At least the backing plates are stainless. Hope the elusive balsa will put in an appearance soon!

[@livingforsail]

Thank you! I have a feeling that we will find some. 🙏👍🙌

[@user-bn2hf3on2b]

I really respect the engineering/material-strength aspect of the channel. I understand the impetus of using fillers as a replacement of expensive fiberglass but I fail to understand how the choice of balsa, for example, is (was) considered a choice of material with the loss of integrity when water ingressed causing the filler to deteriorate.

[@livingforsail]

Thank you! If it stays dry, balsa is one of the very best core materials for strength/weight. Of course we know now that even if built very carefully, water can still get in…

[@johnmerrett5186]

Great video again. I’ve used recoils before on engine blocks, fantastic bit of kit. ⚓️👍🇬🇧😎

[@livingforsail]

Thanks again! 🙏 They can be a real life saver!

[@torstenhansen4308]

Another good episode, Jon. As many others have already mentioned, your engineering mindset and explanations are appreciated!

[@livingforsail]

Thanks Torsten. I appreciate you sticking around for another episode. Thank you for the feedback. ! 🙏🙌👍

[@torstenhansen4308]

@@livingforsail You are welcome, Jon. By posting on Saturdays you fill a void between Ran and Magic Carpet on Fridays and Sail Life of Sundays; I am convinced that that is no coincidence 👌.

[@TheDecguy]

5200, the Devils Toothpaste

[@livingforsail]

Oh man… is it ever. I’d like to finish this project without using any. Haha. We will see. 👍

[@bendaves77]

I would have drilled a hole and used a bore camera that hooks up to your phone and quality stainless steel is not magnetic.. so if your magnet is collecting metal i wouldn't guarantee that its a decent quality

[@livingforsail]

From my experience experience, 316 is not magnetic. 304 usually is mildly. I assume that I have 304 in the bulwark. It’s 34 year old Chinese stainless so the quality is definitely in question 😳

[@montanadan2524]

That retap fix should save a lot of work. The hatches definatly look like you could fab new lenses and avoid the costly total replacement.

[@livingforsail]

I would consider just replacing the lenses but I may have found new old stock hatches for a great deal already 😉

[@silvanocometta9760]

Well done on the stanchion backing plate. I wonder if the bulwark will be strong enough to keep the backing plate fixed in place.

[@livingforsail]

I will evaluate the bulwark itself more as we keep working. I will likely wrap a layer or two over the whole thing when I re-glass the decks. Good input! 👍 Thank you. 🙏🙌

[@philkakid5617]

With respect to the 5200 bedding caulk, my experience is that you're likely to peel a layer of glass when you pull a piece of hardware. Since the hardware came without a layer of glass indicates the solvent you used worked pretty well.

[@livingforsail]

Yeah, that is a good point that I have also heard before. There was definitely some evidence that it helped. I bet a longer soak would yield better results too. Thanks for the feedback! 🙏👍🙌

[@1991pony]

Just as a suggestion, if you have access to a drill press, countersink the holes in the stantion bases and use socket drive flat head screws. The end result will look like it was done by an experienced engineer and, more importantly, the tapered underside of the flat head screw is self locking. They won't work loose but will release when you put a wrench on them.

[@livingforsail]

I like that idea! I kind of like the utilitarian look of the standard socket drives, but flat heads would look super clean. 🙌👍

[@1991pony]

@@livingforsail I'm glad you like it. I recently retired after more then 50 years as a professional machinist. Whenever I build something for myself, I always use flat heads. It just looks like a pro did it. I'm really enjoying this series of videos refitting Antidote. There are a few other boat refit channels that I follow, Sailing Magic Carpet, The Duracell Project, and, of course, Tally Ho. It's pretty cool that so many excellent refits are all happening in one small area of The Great Northwest. I'm Bill and I'm looking forward to your next video. Thanks! ⛵⚓🙂

[@livingforsail]

@@1991pony Thanks! Those are some of my favorite channels. I’m honored to be included in that group. 🙏 Do you have a recommendation for tooling/speeds/lubrication to countersink all of these stainless plates?

[@1991pony]

@@livingforsail There's a company called Ford, not the car company. I'm sure you'll find them online, look for Ford countersinks. They come in a variety of sizes, 1/2", 5/8", 3/4" and so on. You'll want an 82 degree c'sink. Metric flat heads are 90 degrees. Get a single flute, they cut stainless steel better than multi flute. There's a cutting fluid called Moly-Dee that works really well on stainless. Use it on your drill too, it will drill way nicer. Turn your drill press as slow as it will go, around 100 rpm will work well. If the drill press only goes down to 400-500 rpm or so, that's too fast, look around for a different press with slower speeds. Once the c'sink starts to make a chip, try to keep it cutting. It's okay to lift the c'sink up to break the chip, but when you put it back down into the hole, make it cut, but don't let it rub. Stainless will work harden if you get it too hot. If you work harden it, you're done. Most stainless, if you work harden it, gets HARD, that's why you want to keep your rpm slow and use plenty of cutting fluid. Set a depth stop so all the c'sinks are a uniform depth. You'll want the head of the screw to be just below flush. I wish I lived closer, I'd love to help out. If you need any more tips, don't hesitate to ask. Bill.

[@livingforsail]

Bill, I just saw this today for some reason. GREAT ADVICE! Thanks, I should have mentioned the problems with work hardening stainless. I understand that the best bits for drilling this will also be cobalt. I'll get some of that Moly Dee to try out. Thanks again!

[@codyperez2742]

More great content John! I would have never guessed fiberglass could damage your taps and drill bits. In the video you tapped through the fiberglass. Did you continue that process through out your repairs? Or did you switch to drilling a 3/8’s hole through the fiberglass?

[@livingforsail]

Thanks Cody. 🙏 Yeah fiberglass is rough on cutting tools! I have actually not processed all of the holes yet. I will probably pre drill them when I do. 🙌👍

[@billattwood2673]

Staysail deck fitting: when you re-install it MUST be tied to a bulkhead, or have a rigging screw to a bolt through the stem. No backing plate, of any size, will do the job.

[@livingforsail]

Thanks Bill. I appreciate that input and it’s a great point! When Aladino was here the other week we talked about that too. The bulkhead is right behind it so it will be possible to make a right angle bracket to distribute the load into the bulkhead. I’ll make sure to include those details as we rebuild all of that. Cheers! 🙏🙌👍

[@billfromgermany]

Glad to have been helpful. I did exactly what you plan to do, with right angled bracket to the anchor locker bulkhead. Here’s another idea 😁 I fitted a second inner forestay (or staysail) deck fitting, just behind the forestay. This one is used when flying twin foresails. Supported with a rigging screw to an eye-bolt through the stem. The inner forestay is tensioned with a Highfield lever, and both deck fittings have a strop of unique length so that the forestay fits in both positions without adjustment. Hope this is clear. A point about deck stanchions - it’s virtually impossible to build a stanchion which will individually stand up against a heavy fall. The key is the guardrails. They function like those crash barriers on a highway, where the individual posts are linked by the barrier. Finally, consider using single-braid dyneema as guardrail material. Strong as steel, size for size, easy to splice and tension, shows clearly when starting to degrade from UV light - gets fuzzy. I use 8 mm on the top guardrail, way over strength, but looks safer than 6 mm 😁

[@Anne6621]

IMO the surface area of these bases and backing plates are painfully small , on the stanchions if i saw neatly done backing plates on the hull that would be a very pleasing sight to my eyes , it would instill confidence in the rails or lines and a pretty boat that is also stout equals a sexy boat

[@livingforsail]

I see your point. 🤔. Thanks for the input.

[@Anne6621]

@@livingforsail you are like the only one so far that looks to see what caused the problem and to find a solution , going to be a nice ship !!

[@livingforsail]

@@Anne6621 Thank you. 🙏

[@Rm6.23]

You mentioned going through a couple of taps. What is their life expectancy?

[@livingforsail]

There are so many variables that effect tool life but a tap is a consumable. Most are HSS and should last for quite a few holes if cared for well (lubricant mainly). If it becomes increasingly difficult to complete a hole, then it’s time to change before it finds a forever home inside your part. 👍

[@Rm6.23]

@@livingforsail I guess in hind sight it’s silly to think they’d be invincible. Great pro tip with the lubricant.

[@hellapellanyc6465]

Hi! So what core material did you decide on?

[@livingforsail]

The deck is FINALLY starting to come together! - E011 kzbin.info/www/bejne/rn2raouhppmdh68

[@1dandandy1]

Would the integrity of the boat benefit from leaving 4 to 5 inch strips of the top deck across the boat for every couple feet of cutouts?

[@livingforsail]

It’s an interesting idea. It may be difficult to remove all old core that way. Ultimately I am following the procedure that the pros recommend. I’ll be using epoxy to lay the new top deck skin and will probably wrap the last layer over the bulwark. It will be a very strong repair. 🙏👍

[@1dandandy1]

@@livingforsail Thanks 👍

[@Target0070]

Safety glasses please

[@redshifttrucking4537]

How do you know that the bulwarks are anything but rotted mush with embedded backing plates?

[@livingforsail]

Well, it’s a good question. I’m not positive yet. They do sound out well with the hammer overall. The plywood is 1/2” and in the hull side. The deck side seems to be mostly a slurry of resin and so I do t think there is anything to “mush” on that side of the bulwark. They feel good but I will think on that one… thanks for keeping me accountable 😉

[@redshifttrucking4537]

@@livingforsail As wet as the deck is, and as well as that repair is progressing, I would have to cut into the bulwarks and inspect, replacing any wood with foam or it would endlessly bother me that I didn't when the deck was being prepared and it was the easiest time to do so. I'll be watching to see what choices you make.

[@dan2304]

Why not remove top skin all the wat ti the bulwalk?

[@livingforsail]

This was how a couple of professionals recommended that I do it. Like everything… there’s more than one way to skin a cat. 👍

[@viktorbrattsti9397]

Well done! Have found lots of rotten balsa core in my boat as well low, around leaky portlights and into the deck. The cabintopsides have a layer of balsa in between two thick layers of fiberglass, and the deck has 2 layers of balsa between 3 layers of thick fiberglass. So even with wet core, the deck and cabintopsides are super rigid and show no signs of softness.. anyway, I'll replace the core with foam I think, the Gurit Kerdyn PET stuff, can get it affordably here. What do you think of new core? I also want to build a bow she'd like yours, did you follow a manual?

[@livingforsail]

Thanks! That construction sounds super stout! I have considered the Gruit products but I didn’t look too much into the PET. Something water proof for sure.

[@livingforsail]

Google search “lsu Gothic arch shed” for the plans that I used. I modified it slightly. Cheers. 🙏👍🙌

[@viktorbrattsti9397]

@@livingforsail thanks!

[@viktorbrattsti9397]

@@livingforsail Is it possible you share your plans? Would be fun to see! Gladly pay you for them. I found the LSU plans though , thanks.

[@livingforsail]

@@viktorbrattsti9397 send me an email 👍

[@markbailey6051]

Is she for sale on ebay?

[@livingforsail]

I hope not

[@spencerallen4459]

I am not understanding the search for « balsa ». Whatever soggy bottom (layer) you have, it has to go!

[@livingforsail]

You’re absolutely right. There’s no place for wet anything in the decks. It’s more so just become a personal mission since the boat was advertised to have balsa decks and so far it’s all ply…

[@charlesmcdonald5465]

If…ya wanted to be “that guy”…you could just drill and tap the bad ones and leave the good? Lol. Wouldn’t be the first or last guy to need two wrenches on the same part lol

[@martyb3783]

Or you could just you could replace the bolts and alternate between hex head, philips head, flat head, allen head, alternating between metric threads and standard. At least that's the idea the previous owner of my boat had. 😖

[@livingforsail]

Yeah. I might leave the ones that hold torque and run two bolt sizes. No harm in that except the damage to my perfectionism… I’m working on that. Ha 🤦‍♂️

[@SoBoring136]

Big project, I understand why you are going into details around things that are generally not mentioned in these KZbin endeavours however for the viewer who is at the same level of general knowledge as yourself it gets a bit boring and I find myself talking to the iPad saying just get on with it. Thanks

[@livingforsail]

Fast forward? Playback at 2x?

[@samhowitt70]

Sorry but backing the tap is no Bueno. Doing so can cause the threads to chip.

[@livingforsail]

Apology accepted.

[@TheMikesylv]

Learn how to sharpen your drill bits , you will save yourself some money, a lot of money, I do it free hand which is the worst way to do it . Even that way I usually can sharpen it 5 times before I lose all the angles

[@livingforsail]

It’s a great idea. I’ve looked at some kits for that. I’ll probably wed to do that! Thank you! 🙏

[@TheMikesylv]

@@livingforsail yea buy a kit to do it I had a old timer machinist show me how and it’s not intuitive until you know how

[@Paul_C]

Switch to metric. Seriously, it is the gold standard. You want to travel the world. Just Myanmar, Liberia and the USA use your system, the rest of the world uses that other one... oh, right Metric.

[@livingforsail]

My system?! Haha 😂. I’m from Canada originally. It’s a good point and metric works better in many cases. I will have plenty of spares on board in case I need to swap out this 3/8 fastener 🙌

[@Paul_C]

@@livingforsail maybe switch back to what you were used to?

[@paulleger3387]

You talk to much go work you don't have to tell us everything

[@livingforsail]

I talk *too* much… I think you meant.

[@BHaskins]

Glad you were able to tap them. I always used the HELOC oils as the last resort on my street rod projects. The wet plywood sucks!! Hope it’s not like that on the entire length.