No installation needed - get 220v Tesla fast charging from a Nema 10-30 dryer plug for under $250

[@fliacragno]

That cable running inside the dryer vent is an absolute noooooooo

[@Antiorganizer]

That's not the only violation here. How many did you count?

[@Historyxx510]

Wouldn't that cable potentially melt??

[@0xVeniVidiVici]

Good video! The reason why 220V is more efficient is because a smaller current is needed. Same reason why power lines are high voltage to transmit power. Increasing voltage allows to transport less current. V (Volts) = I (Current) * R (Resistance)

[@jesth7335]

Dryer vent and electrical cord might be a fire hazard , be careful

[@mrflorida55]

For sure it is!! Don't do that!

[@francosepulveda8438]

I just saw that. Really good observation!

[@daveyvu]

Hi Bryan. Thank you so much for making this video. Without your video, I am not sure what I would have done to charge my new Tesla. I live in a very old house and lets just say my breaker box uses the screw in fuses, I just can't "flip a switch" like most people. All the other outlets that I have tried to use have failed to charge my Tesla. You saved me time and money with your video. However, I did set my charge limit to a very low rate, because of the use of a splitter. I did not need an extension cord, because my Tesla is parked a few feet away from my dryer outlet. I appreciate your video unlike some of these other posters on here.

[@shawnsereal]

Some old videos are so great to refer back to. This video has saved me lots of money as an alternative to hiring an electrician to install a 14-30 over my 10-30. Because of this video, I can now charge my Ioniq plug-in hybrid using my 10-30 dryer plug with only the splitter and charger. Thanks for this great video. The green ground wire that you placed on the ground had me laughing so much. On the ground eh?

[@NaughtyYash]

he must've thought: "they call it 'ground' wire for a reason."

[@IsaacYeung1]

You plugged in a NEMA 14-50 plug into a NEMA 10-30 dryer outlet. That's why it shows 32A charging, which is maxing out the mobile charger. But a NEMA 10-30 dryer outlet is only capable of running 80% of its max amps continuously. 24A is what you should have the max limit at with this setup, probably even less with the splitter and the extension, and also running it through a dryer vent. Sure, you may be fine, but hopefully no one else tries to replicate this and burn down their house.

[@Bryanbkk]

The great thing about the Tesla is you tell it how many amps to draw. It goes down to 5 amps at minimum - set from the car or the app.

[@zed4me]

​@@Bryanbkk that's great, that's not what you did though and it's why some fires have started.

[@videoscrapheap]

This is why I ordered a 10-30 adapter for my mobile connector. It matches the supply wiring so less chance of overloading the circuit.

[@francosepulveda8438]

I was thinking more of the type of max load in that line. A 32 amps charging tells me that is quite probable the breaker used in the distribution panel is a 40 or 50 amp breaker in that line. Am I wrong here?

[@Arthur-dj8im]

@@francosepulveda8438 Exactly my thought. If it was a 30 breaker it shouldn’t peeked out that high without not setting off the breaker. I mean that is the purpose of it after all. Not to pass 30amps

[@srnd1247]

Perfect. My Parkworld splitter is on the way and the extension as well. Saved a lot of costs!

[@Jalex92]

Remember there’s a temperature sensor in the mobile connector and by using that splitter the temperature sensor doesn’t work. If your outlet melts, that’s on you. NEVER CHARGE AT 30amps!!! LIMIT CHARGING TO 24!!! The copper wiring WILL GET HOT

[@Bryanbkk]

I've been charing at 8 amps for the past year, with a rare need to bump up to 12-16 amps.

[@dannyluismartinez9780]

I am not an electrician but the only problem I see, as you have shown , is that you could potentially pull 32 amps from a 30 amp circuit. That is because since you are using the 14-50 connector the Tesla s fooled into thinking that you are using a 50 amp circuit. If you forget to limit the charging current in the Tesla to 24 amps you are creating a potential fire condition.

[@Bryanbkk]

No doubt. But Tesla remembers the 6 amp setting each time I plug in. I only set a higher amp value if faster charging is needed, which is rare and I'm aware to avoid.

[@Arthur-dj8im]

Can you explain this a little more. About the fire condition. I am about to do the same set up with my Tesla. The required amp’s for a 30amp breaker is 24? The charge set up should be at 24?

[@dannyluismartinez9780]

If what you're saying happens, your circuit breaker would trip if circuit breaker is only rated for 30 amps and it exceeds 30 amps . That's what circuit breakers are the designed for. so that the wiring doesn't exceed the amperage of the circuit breaker

[@jaytomten3782]

This is why YT need the dislike count.

[@sambone1762]

Impressed your smart enough to make this work since your not smart enough to realize your house is going to burn down. Oh yeah, it’s a rental. Carry on!

[@LarryRichelli]

Please don't listen to these paranoid people that don't seem to understand electricity

[@obeqni8651]

Very helpful video. For last two months I have been switching plugs between dryer and Tesla to use the dryer 10-30 plug. I added a Y splitter today. While adding Tesla and dryer plugs into the Y ends, I noticed some spark. That was only when I plugging them in? Should I be concerned?

[@cfldriven]

Is it UL listed, looks like a fire waiting to happen.

[@panosfxable]

and why not just use a splitter from 1 10-30 to 2 10-30 dryer plugs? And every time you want to use one or the other just shut the Charging or Dryer. Since you already charging at lower Amps instead of buying the 14-50 adaptrer you can just buy the 10-30 and charge just fine and safely!

[@mrprivette]

This was so helpful and just saved me $1500 for what an electrician quoted me to install a 240 outlet. Thank you!!

[@rambo4war]

Smart lowering the amperage without knowing how much power that socket can handle. That’s my plan as I upgrade….if the system says 32, I am definitely dropping that down to about 10-12 over night or lower…to lesson the heat until I decide to have an electrician certify the line for max power (face plate in my home could be a $6 dollar flimsy item from overseas for all I know)

[@neilufe]

Great video, what’s your monthly bill for charging at 10-30

[@deppi]

Hold on. Did you put extension through the dryer vent? Is it safe. ??

[@Bryanbkk]

Well my clothes don't come out as toast, so I'm going to assume the heat is not an issue for a thick cable.

[@ewicky]

@@Bryanbkk Heat cycling and moisture could accelerate degradation of the cable over time. You're def not supposed to run anything but air through a dryer vent.

[@mikeandroi2698]

Instead of that splitter I would look at getting a smart splitter such as a neosmart or split volt That will allow you to draw maxium amp from the dryer circuit (80% max of the breaker size/rating) so if its a 30amp set your max draw at 24amp if its 40amp set your max at 32amp which is the max for a model 3 SR+ and also the max a mobile tesla charger can charge at. The smart splitter will automatically switch the ev charger line off when the dryer is in use and back on when the dryer is done. Only other issue of concern is to find out if there is a code/safety violation by running a power cable through the dryer vent.

[@jakechung9295]

Thank you for a great video. Actually, I'm going to make an EV charger receptacle for my friend who lives in a rented house. So, I have to find out a solution to do it without any construction like making a hole for installing a receptacle. I'll discuss your method with my friend to connect the charger. Thanks again.

[@rchen404]

Someone told me the 10-30 cable has to be grounded separately or it won't charge the Tesla. Is that really true?

[@mrczz6690]

I see what you did mostly. I have an old 10-30 dryer outlet in my basement and would need a 50ft extension cord 10-30. I want to remove the dryer plug each time and use the extension cord. If I buy 10-30 tesla adaptor...where does the female portion of the adaptor plug into? What part of the mobile connector? Not The handle? But the other end of mobile connector?

[@WwoJakkk]

does it need to be grounded? usually those things arent grounded

[@Bryanbkk]

@@WwoJakkk yes it does

[@kibbimkinall2066]

Thinking fired hazard too

[@jkeaty2]

You may need to get something to prevent from burning the house down. A smart switch. If tou run the dryer and the car charger at the same time, you will blow the circuit or cause a fire. Very bad idea. Use a Splitvolt, or a Neocharge smart splitter that switches between a dryer and a car.

[@alejandrofernandezs.4343]

This solution could work perfectly for me. The only problem I have is that the 110 plug for the ground cable is not so close to the 220 v plug as in your case. How could I extend the ground cable? Would that be a bad idea? Thanks for the video.

[@SanJacinto23]

Wtf??? Ok I raised an eyebrow at the cord through the dryer vent... but then completely lost it when you thought the ground was not necessary, when you even read the note saying that it is needed. Dude be careful, it sounds like you need to learn more about electricity and wires. Clever solution sticking it in the ground socket but still not "smart"...

[@carvanlai7132]

Hi, I have a question. I have the 10-30 dryer outlet on my garage wall, and I am only using the gas dryer. I bought the new Gen 2 NEMA 10-30 Adapters from Tesla. Every time when I charge my 2021 Model 3, the first few minutes can get 25mi/ hr , 24/24V 236v , but after 5-10 mins, it changes to 12mi/hr 12/12A 236V automatically . And never go back to 25mi/ hr , 24/24V 236v again. Do you know what is going on ? I hope you can help me.

[@michaelmcdonagh1779]

I read about this a while pack so I am loosely paraphrasing here. From what I understand the car will adjust those numbers down on their own as a safety feature and that is largely dependant on the wiring in your home. If I had to guess, heat is probably playing a factor and rather than blow the fuse or start a fire, the car adjusts down the amperage pull down. If you google it there should be some good information out there for you on this though.

[@drmlzhang]

fire??

[@giz136]

Fire hazard...using dryer hose...

[@audaxriberinho]

Why the set limit is so low?

[@fisherkieds6282]

Out of 30 amps,you will only get a 24 amp charging rate,thats 16 miles per hour for a tesla

[@redbaron6805]

Was there a reason you didn't just use SplitVolt or Dryer Buddy for this? They have those out of the box already ready to go.

[@Bryanbkk]

The only value of the box vs splitter is if you can't keep track of when you're drying and when you're charging - if thats you - then the extra $250 is worth it. Otherwise drying and charging happen at different times and low to no hassle making sure you are not doing both. The other factor is the Tesla is set to 6-12 Amps, rarely need more - hence overload not an issue either. If I do need more Amps for a road trip - I take extra care to make sure the dryer is off. Not hard.

[@redbaron6805]

@@Bryanbkk OK, fair enough. For most people though, I think the risk of someone forgetting the car is charging and starting the dryer would be too great. It probably would just trip the breaker, but with the other systems, the dryer is automatically disconnected when the car is charging, preventing any potential issues. Depending on the dryer model, dryers can draw as much as 6000 Watts which is 25A. Even if you are just charging at 6 to 12A, it could still exceed the rating of the typical 10-30/14-30 dryer outlet by 2A to 8A. I personally think most people are too absent minded to safely save the $250. It wouldn't be worth the risk in my opinion. Also keep in mind, with the Tesla charging, the outlet is required to be de-rated by 20%, so it becomes a 24A outlet. This is required under the NEC for anything running over 2 hours to prevent overheating and fires on the outlet and wiring.

[@Bryanbkk]

@@redbaron6805 Fair points. If we were doing more driving and drying, yes $250 more is a small price to pay for that peace of mind. Concerning the breaker, what is a reasonable about of faith to place in them? Operating correctly - doesn't a breaker prevent an overload issue that could lead to a fire?

[@redbaron6805]

@@Bryanbkk Breakers should be pretty reliable to be honest. I don't think that will be your weak point. The likely weak point will be the wiring from the breaker to the outlet, or the outlet itself. If that wire wasn't sized correctly, is chafed or kinked or the wire terminals are not tight on the outlet, or if the prongs in the outlet itself are worn, then you can a an area that heats up significantly. That is why the NEC de-rates any outlets that are used for over 2 hours by 20%. So, a 30A outlet is only rated for 24A for any device that draws from it over 2 hours. That was done precisely as a safety margin to prevent an issue with an old outlet with dirty or weak contacts, crusty wiring or anything else. Also keep in mind that the insulation on your cable has a temp rating. That cable can get pretty warm if you charge at its rated current. Hence, running it through the dryer hose which is already flowing with hot moist air could cause that insulation to melt. That is definitely frowned upon according to the NEC code. That being said, do I personally think that will be an issue? Probably not, as that UMC charger is rated for 40A and you only charging at 6A to 12A. Just pointing those out to error on the side of safety, despite the chances of you having issues being relatively low.

[@bruceb9552]

The OLD 10-30 dryer plug has no grounding, so it's great your splitter came with one. And the Maximum you should ever draw continuously is 24 Amps from a 30 amp dryer circuit, even if the tesla display shows 32amps as an option, don't do it!

[@scottt725]

Hey Bruce... I have a ? if you can help... Can you plug an EV charger into an oven outlet? My oven is on a 50-amp breaker, the oven is 40 but breaker is 50. That being said, can you tell me if there's a mobile charger on Amazon or whatever that I can use to plug in the oven outlet? Thanks...

[@bruceb9552]

@@scottt725 You need to find a number on the outlet, or match it to a picture of 240v outlets, EV chargers need 2, 120 volt "Hot" wires and 1 ground wire, Or you (or a handyman/electrician) could change the outlet for the oven to one that matches the EV charger, like a NEMA 6-50, the 6-50 is the best outlet for an EV charger, and only charge at 40 amps or less with a 50 amp breaker.

[@scottt725]

@@bruceb9552 Thank you Bruce. I got a 10-50P to 14-50R 240V 50 Amp 3 Prong Male Plug and a 40 amp MUSTART Level 2 EV Charger NEMA 14-50. This should juice it up pretty good no?

[@bruceb9552]

@@scottt725 Sounds good, let us know how it works and the charging rate you are getting.

[@francosepulveda8438]

I have the same problem (a three-prong old outlet), but I just checked it and it is properly grounded via conduit. I will install the four-prong receptacle with a grounding pigtail attached to it. The charging is going to be less than 30 amps (using solar). This will take time since I decided to make all the necessary modifications before buying the vehicle, which is not going to be a Tesla. The breaker will be changed to a GFCI (except if the charger level 2 installation prohibits doing so). The charger itself might have an internal GFCI, and this can create problems. Good video!

[@f1racer908]

good insight on 220v vs 120v efficiency, to know, Thanks

[@jasonroberts2668]

I just started doing this and am getting 20 miles per hour charge on my dryer outlet...just be sure to get an Ev 30 amp rated extension cord

[@Bryanbkk]

That's great!

[@lashlarue59]

Are you changing at 24A? If so have you noticed the cord getting warm after a few hours of changes?

[@-BUFFALOMan]

that's half assed... did you burn down the house yet?

[@4x2-ev]

Pay an electrician and get a permit. It is not worth the risk. Standard dryer receptacles are not built for the continuous loads of an EV and there is a history of melting plugs and outlets. Commercial grade outlets are needed at a minimum. Tesla clearly states in the manual not to use extensions or splitters.

[@rocketman143]

Very informative

[@siguienteseventoss]

good ! saludos desde argentina

[@adoptehshelteranimal]

yep fire hazard

[@tonyfrese287]

I want a Tesla but need level 2 charging. But I own a townhouse with 120v plugs attached to front of my house (no garage) and my electrical box is on the back of my house on an attached shed area. Do you think it’s possible for me to get the nema 14-50 upgrade?

[@ewicky]

Ask an electrician.

[@tonyfrese287]

@@ewicky lol I know I’m just being lazy

[@BeTheRamMedia]

Yo bro I’m far from an electrician however at this rate you will have a visit from Fire Marshall Bill soon.

[@erichardin17]

I’m sorry, but if your rental home hasn’t already burned down there are several really risky things in this video. Nobody should follow any of this electrical advice. From the extension through a dryer vent. Moisture, heat, lint, it’s a major fire hazard just waiting to happen. Also the ground to a nearby 120 outlet. If your landlord were to see this it could also be grounds for evection.

[@tranvanson03]

Where do you buy that’s?

[@SerpentSuccessors]

are you still using this set up?

[@Bryanbkk]

@@SerpentSuccessors yeah, but not recommended.

[@SerpentSuccessors]

@@Bryanbkk yeah i’d be running a similar one with the splitter. just was curious if you ran into any problems

[@BigSmonster]

I see this video is 3 months old, so I wanna really wanna know how is it going so far? Is everything safe and good? No problems? Because if it’s safe then I might get a Tesla only cause of this method But I still have to figure out how to take it from laundry room to the driveway.

[@redbaron6805]

Not sure why he is not just using SplitVolt or Dryer Buddy which does this automatically.

[@Bryanbkk]

So far so good. Found that I do not need the full 24 amps nightly. 6-12amp on the 220v does fine. Also found that knowing when you are drying or charging is not hard. The extra $350 for a Splitvolt , when you can shut off charging from the app, seems a waste for us.

[@Antiorganizer]

Extension cord is not allowed to be used as a permanent solution and also is not allowed to be run through a wall or through a door or out a window. Hence this is not to code. Also, that cord is complete bogus. There is no such thing as a cord to code that "omits" the neutral. So, many, violations, here.

[@brax0789]

What do you connect the ground cable to

[@Bryanbkk]

There is a ground wire going into a traditional 110v outlet.

[@mrflorida55]

Ha left the ground on the ground!

[@diegojose2700]

👆👆👆thank to the group Same thing happened to me. I live in Florida and there’s a lot of lighting.

[@vincentlawrinait6462]

several reasons why. i just need my 13th reason

[@maryobruno7554]

This is dangerous man

[@diegojose2700]

⬆️👆👆helped me out now my problem has been solved

[@hlm34]

I would never purchase an electric vehicle if I did not have enough money to pay for an electrician to wire it up correctly. Besides, once the landlord see’s that setup, they will more than likely tell you to remove that setup because it’s their house and I doubt any insurance company will stand behind any damages that can occur. It’s cheaper and safer in the long run to pay an electrician than burning up your family over jerry-rigging an electrical circuit. Good luck!

[@Bryanbkk]

Fair point. Not the best route for most, but I think it's fair people know it's at least a temporary option.

[@diegojose2700]

👆👆👆thank to the group Same thing happened to me. I live in Florida and there’s a lot of lighting.