Correcting 3 Mistakes On A 240V Outlet Install

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[@r7j7t7]

These are the videos that do the most for me. Mistakes recognized and humble presentation is great and it is these types of post that always generate the most useful comments and tips from the crazy amount of knowledge and experience given by all the people generous enough to post in the comments. thanks to all. I use mine for a welder only occasionally but if I had an EV I would swap out for a Hubbell

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

Thanks for the feedback 👍

[@randyscott990]

Yeah, except all these youtube “experts” are rookies, often times at your expense. This guys been around awhile and does have some good tips and videos, but this was a total disaster. Unnecessary use of a Wago. And that original install with mud ring and outlet cover. Good lord.

[@stanrosenblum4669]

That original install was done by a master electrician who has his own fantastic channel. We all make errors but as others have pointed out EMT if properly installed is an acceptable ground Also you could wrap the ground wire around the box screw and then to the receptacle. Great channel Keep pushing for Klein combo or Milwaukee ecx drivers especially as torquing is becoming more of a standard and not a suggestion. 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻

[@Jgalaski8438]

Was looking for someone to comment about just wrapping the wire around the screw. I was starting to wonder if that was against code.

[@knifeswitch5973]

No, the EGC needs to be pigtailed now. Can’t just do a loop then hit the device.

[@pizzabar3527]

The EMT is only a ground if it goes all the way bay to the panel, which is probably not the case here.

[@BradBo1140]

Now I got something to buy with my gift card, a screw driver torque tool! I also learned allot from the state inspectors when I wired all my new houses. I have always appreciated how patient they were with me as a homeowner and wanting to learn.

[@gregcollins3404]

The Hubbell receptacles are made from bakelite which will never melt whereas all the other brands are just basic plastic which have had instances of getting hot and melting during prolonged EV charging. Also notice that most of the cheaper brands have contacts that are only half the size of the slot in the receptacle. (talk about cost cutting beancounters)

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

Thanks for the additional feedback 👍

[@WilliamsFamily204]

Munro Live has a good video discussing overheating issues.

[@aaron74]

Very interesting. Seems any 14-50R should be rated for a sustained 50A load, but who knows what UL and/or CSA loopholes may exist

[@catsbyondrepair]

To expensive would not use ever use this guy is a idiot

[@aaron74]

@@Kevin-mp5of Yeah I doubt Bakelite is made anymore; it gets brittle and over time is friable.

[@gigafreckle]

A licensed master electrician did this install, and here you are making some fixes. I get it that hindsight is 20/20, but what hope do we DIY'ers / consumers have to make sure we're performing work properly if even master electricians cut corners / forget things? Wouldn't an inspection from the municipal building permit department here have saved you before calling the initial install complete? As an aside, thanks for the content. I've been learning a lot from you and Joel!

[@Toyotajunkie]

It's not just the "original installing party" that is potentially doing things wrong... there are a large percentage of professional cheaters and hacks out there. Yes inspections can help, if the inspector isn't lazy, or possibly not experienced/trained enough to catch things. I wish I had a better answer for your concern. I think DIYers can accomplish a lot that the pros can't/ won't because they have a personal investment. Tons of tradespeople and contractors, just don't give a damn and they will tell you that. "Give me my paycheck for the 10 hrs that I half-ass worked." LOL

[@antilogism]

Just today I found that the AFCI for the master bedroom had its neutral connected to ground and the well pump's hot didn't have markings indicating the white lead was repurposed as a hot. Neither violation is a big deal but still...

[@BobbyOfRustOfficial]

Thanks to like 3-4 of your videos I’m confident enough to run my 10 gauge wire for my compressor that comes tomorrow, thank you 🙏

[@jessebutryn]

If that metal conduit is grounded that should meet any code requirements for grounding the box. Also those "combo" screws on the original outlet will also accept a robertson drive which will allow you to put as much torque as needed.

[@paaao]

Not true. The conduit is not required to have the grounded conductor tied to it due to the fact that emt and the fittings are considered a complete bonded path, but the ground conductor in the cable, bare or insulated should be tied to every device that has a ground terminal, and every metal junction box it passes through. If a ground fault condition occurs on a 50Amp ckt like we have here, or any other smaller ckt for that matter, you want the 10 awg wire that travels back to the panel's ground bus bar carrying the fault current, as opposed to the EMT. The code allows you to avoid bonding the EMT because if a fault occurs in contact with a section of pipe or a fitting, there should be a grounded junction box, or panel, that is tied directly to the grounded conductor within a short enough distance to return the fault current back to the source, and allow the breaker to trip. That's the intent of the code. The intent is not for you to rely on, or assume your conduit and fittings are sufficient to carry fault current on their own back to the source. I think you're misinterpreting what the code is saying. If a junction box has a splice, or connections/device, then it should be grounded. Bonded is not the same thing. EMT is considered bonded to jboxes and panels that it connects to. That has nothing to do with grounding panels and jboxes.

[@greg_zenger]

@@paaao Sorry, but you are mistaken. The EMT can be utilized as the EGC in accordance with NFPA 70 Section 250.118, and there is no requirement to bring an additional ground conductor to the box. If the receptacle does not have listing and associated markings to allow grounding through its yokes, then a grounding pigtail does need to be brought between at least the receptacle and the box. It has been proven that all sizes of EMT conduit are capable of handling the fault currents of the largest services, feeders, or branch circuits that they can contain. The biggest exception is in NFPA 70 section 440.9 which requires a separate grounding conductor in rooftop EMT serving HVAC equipment. When installed correctly, EMT can provide an excellent EGC path, however the HVAC trades tend not to be the best electricians, so the code has had to compensate for them. Its unfortunate, but here we are. As a specifying engineer, I often require a separate ECG to be pulled into EMT when I can justify the cost. (I almost always can). Sometimes there are box fill, conduit fill, labor hours, and situational conditions that making eliminating the ECG the correct option. In my experience DIYers tend to go above and beyond when it comes to supporting cables and conduit. They are working on their own project and they tend to aim for aesthetics and in general just "overengineer" certain aspects. Nothing wrong with going above the code, after all the code is the bare minimum needed to be legal. The biggest issue is the quality of components DIYers tend to have access to. Better quality parts from Appleton/Oz-Gedney, Cooper/Eaton, ABB/T&B, etc. available from the supply houses can really make a difference in an installation compared to the economy brands typically available at the box stores where DIYers shop. And of course, there may be local amendments to codes that may require an EGC in EMT. Your company might have a local policy to always install one. In general, I would consider it a good idea, but it is usually not legally required.

[@docferringer]

Yeah, he's got a couple of videos going into the different screwdrivers that will work in those fasteners. The "combination" fasteners will take a robertson/square drive for sure, but the cheaper the fastener, the more likely you cam out or break the bit, even a square drive. Cheap galvanized screws have to account for the changing dimensions of fastener before and after electroplating, so it's pretty common for a cheap-ass manufacturer to go one bit size up and then rate the bit size one lower (so square #2 fastener HOPEFULLY galvanized to a #1 square). If an outfit is cheap enough to do that then they are going to have little to no QC to see how close they are. The beauty of combo/ECX bits is you can use that smaller #1 size when the #2 is too tight, and you can be sure of AT LEAST one of the slotted/philips/robertson carve-outs being close enough to avoid stripping. But for every other application under the sun? Hell yes to the Robertson!

[@paaao]

@Greg Zenger Guess you're right. I was always taught that it's a no no, because inspectors often fail you unless you can prove the emt path is actually continuous and will never be interrupted or modified, and that the ckt within will never be used to feed any motor driven appliances. Which can be tough to do in a commercial environment. In residential, sure.

[@donh6416]

@Greg Zenger EMT is permissible as a grounding conductor. But the problem the AHJ's locally point out, set screws don't always stay secure, which breaks the integrity of the continuity. Hidden couplers make it difficult to troubleshoot continuity checks. I'm with you, pull a ground conductor. All the time. The poor quality of EMT connectors & couplings in my mind make necessary.

[@jameskrivitsky9715]

From a practical point of view ( semi-trained in electrical work ) since you originally had some slack in the bare gnd wire, what is wrong with making a small hairpin turn to go around one of the metal box GND screws , fasten it to the GND lug of the box and then attach the tail of the bare GND wire to the outlet ? I would think that an un-cut conductor is better than a WAGO splice with less surface contact.. Once connected, then push the wires and outlet back into the metal box with the upgraded face-plate.

[@bobmitchell4532]

Excellent tip! A number of others have suggested the same.

[@802Garage]

By pig tailing you have a ground for the device and the box. If one of the two grounds fails, the other may still function, providing an added layer of safety. That's the usual logic I see anyways, though TBH it probably makes very little difference.

[@KameraShy]

Conduit (RMC, IMC or EMT) is an NEC-accepted ground path. No additional grounding wire is needed. The metal box does not need to be grounded separately. However, that presumes that the origin of the conduit itself is properly grounded, which may not be the case where wiring spawns from a hybrid of different types. My house is all conduit and all my receptacles test as correctly grounded. Commercial grade electrical components are expensive, some exceptionally expensive, but will save misery in the long run. Commercial grade standard receptacles are only a dollar or so more, and my regret as a DIYer is not using them. Some cheap ones that get frequent use have now become sticky and will have to be replaced. It is different where they are only used to plug in a lamp that will not change for 10 years.

[@c0wb0ybil91]

When using a surface mount cover (garvin) the device needs to be grounded to the box. It is to make sure the device has a ground path when opened.

[@MrWizards1974]

@@c0wb0ybil91 Wrong. You don't understand. What he is saying is the conduit is grounded to the panel and so is the the component with the ground wire It is literally the exact same thing as grounding to the box but its done at the panel.

[@TwilightxKnight13]

Many jurisdictions no longer allow conduit ground paths, especially in residential where the risk of Romex and other methods can interrupt the system. Never assume that just because the Code allows something that it is okay. Check with your authority having jurisdiction (AHJ aka inspector) to verify the demands of your area. If you use a metal box, you should ground the box. It is simply good practice.

[@aaron74]

@@MrWizards1974 In this particular instance there is *not* a conduit bond to the panel. The conduit in this instance is just sleeving for NM cable that runs inside the conduit. The conduit terminates above the panel and the NM runs behind the wall from above and has a box connector at the panel. Therefore the only bonding of the conduit is made at the far-end receptacle box.

[@machintelligence]

When safety is involved it is better to "wear both belt and suspenders."

[@N-hunter]

Another note is to make sure that the box is secured well to the wall if you plan on plugging and unplugging with any frequency. Those receptacles have a fair bit of grip strength, so normal drywall anchors may pull out of the wall. 3” Screws into a stud or tapcons for concrete are best

[@Toyotajunkie]

I agree... I rip the "high-end" anchors out all the time, and thus do not use them in anything that I do. I think it is worth it to remove drywall and add a brace if there isn't already one. In that case I wouldn't use 3", but you catch my drift.

[@milantrcka121]

The box looked like it was moving a bit during install.

[@aaron74]

Yeah to house a $75 receptacle, you may as well make sure the box is as good as it can be lol

[@Dirtyharry70585]

yup or add a 3/4" plywood piece between the doors then screw to ti. Heck maybe a combo 240 & 120 gfi outlet box while he's at it. Then he has got ground fault to a vac or anything outside. Just dont think he has room in that conduit.

[@pheddupp]

Great point.

[@SNUFFY1989]

I really cannot stress enough, using a non contact meter is not the way to "make sure" power is off, you should ALWAYS use a volt meter to make sure.... (I'm aware that with this circuit you know it was off and what breaker it was) IBEW Local 681

[@liffy8333]

I agree! Non contact meters can only tell you if a circuit is on, NEVER can tell you if it's off. Always test with a good multi meter for safety, you only get one chance on this side of the grass. Retired IBEW Local 48 40+ year member and past apprenticeship instructor.

[@bobmitchell4532]

My first electrical project was replacing a broken duplex outlet in my bedroom. I was fifteen and learned the hard way that you need to be careful about testing that the power is REALLY OFF! I've been very careful ever since.

[@paulholmes1303]

One correction. You stated to install the conductors with no copper exposed. I believe code now requires a small bit of copper should be exposed to insure you are not possibly clamping on insulation A few mils of wire exposed will not create a short hazard and clamping partially on insulation creates arc/hot spot possibilities.

[@mariolucius841]

Thank you for clearly defining what is meant by “industrial grade” NEMA 14-50 receptacle, including an Amazon link, and emphasising the need to torque and re-torque.

[@benjaminvivar7855]

I’d like to mention for best practices. When reconnecting Used wires UL product steps requires to cut off the end of the previous deformed (used)bent wires and Re-terminate properly (remove proper length of insulation making sure wire is well seated in mechanical connector, torque to products specification) unfortunately that was not done. Great public information though, thank you.

[@uhjyuff2095]

And that is why certified electricians are allowed to make terminations. You know your stuff!

[@kendocashwell4537]

I would also verify the direction of the right angle of the plug to be used the most. Having the cord run upwards and then loop to go down. just the weight of the power cord is going to stress the cord, the plug and the box mounting. Good video. Great info. Thanks

[@crspang]

Because there is a metallic cover being used the ground must be up. So code will not allow you to invert the outlet with the ground down.

[@matthewcanavan8275]

When grounding a metal box I prefer to cut the ground longer, then wrap the ground around the grounding screw and tightening it down then finally to the device. To avoid slices where ever possible. Because slices "could" become loose. Where non splices cannot. Think about it on your next metal work box install.- from a commercial electrician

[@aaron74]

Yeah, agreed, he could have made a U-turn around that green screw straight into the device. Omit the error gap of the splicing device, and save money not using one in the first place.

[@jaromrobinson2339]

Best way to do it right there.

[@bobmazzi7435]

@@aaron74 I was thinking the same thing as I do my best to avoid extra junctions. It also lowers the device count in the box that in some cases means that you need to move up to a larger box.

[@bobmitchell4532]

At first I didn't get exactly what you were describing, then I read it again carefully and understood that it was the "ground wire coming into the box" that you were referring to, cutting it longer and wrapping it around the ground screw and then connecting the end directly to the receptacle. That's perfect. A real no-brainer. Thanks for the tip! One I'll always remember! Tip o' the hat to ya!

[@joshdoeseverything4575]

definitely not code

[@brianmoran1968]

Thank you for calling out the Allen key size. Greatly appreciated

[@946towguy2]

Is there a reason you don't use an unbroken ground? I was taught that best practice was to put an eye in the ground with 2-3 twists and bond to box with screw, leaving a tail to attach to the receptacle. Then connect wires to receptacle and secure to box. Why add 2 extra points of failure and resistance?

[@bobmitchell4532]

Very good point as noted by many other brothers (and sisters) here. T Y!

[@sliceronsteam]

"put an eye in the ground with 2-3 twists" There's your guaranteed point of failure. Twist the copper and then smash it with a screw and then it will have to continue to flex every time the receptacle is serviced. And as an added bonus, it's going to leave your unlucky victim with a very short conductor after they have to cut off below your twists to make a new clean connection.

[@111smd]

my thoughts 1. you need to better secure the box to the wall - it flexed a-lot 2. undo and re tension the terminals - if you had movement on the terminal bolts when you torqued them its ok, but if you did not this could mean that they are over torqued 3. check your ground strap screw it looked loose - this would make a bad connection 4. 4 screws are needed in that face cover - 2 screws might not be strong enuf that is why there are 4 holes, it is always better to err. on the side of caution with hi voltage/amperage 2 phase

[@Sovek86]

in regards to #4, pray tell how would you add another two screws when there is only two tabs for screws? I do this stuff for a living and this is the only way to install RS covers, because there is only two tabs on the box. Now 4 11 boxes are another story, but even then I think we still use two screws unless we go out and by 6x32 screws.

[@richardholden420]

If the conduit runs all the way back to a nonconcentric KO in your panel or using a bonding bushing EMTs perfectly acceptable as using your GEC, but I would’ve put a green screw in the box and grounded it straight to the device to give it a little bit more of a path than just the yolk and screws holding into the box. Also, I would use compression couplings and fittings, instead of set screw if I was to use EMT as the GEC

[@dunckeroo1987]

Riser fill, clocking, mechanic attachment, ground bounding -- lots to learn.

[@andreitsourkan9495]

EMT conduit can be used as a grounding conductor, per 250.118(4), as long as it extends all the way to the main panel or if used with NM cable (romex), there is junction box that is grounded with NM to the main panel. One can check continuity from the box and the main panel with the multi-meter. 250.118(4) states that electrical metallic tubing (EMT) are permitted as an Equipment Grounding Conductor.

[@Mr5Stars]

Thank you for the videos. You are right about the plug. The electrician used a normal NEMA outlet from Home Depot, after 4 years of heavy use of daily charging our EV, a Tesla, we got a warning from the car that the power outlet was getting too hot and it automatically lowered it's charging Amps. I am installing this Heavy duty plug ASAP. Thank you for the video.

[@pld8993]

The smartest way to install an EV charger, and the only way I will install them, is direct wire. There is no reason to have a plug-in charger unless it's intended to be portable, which is almost none. Your AC system, water heater, hot tub, built-in range, etc. are not allowed to be plugged in and neither should an EV charger.The EV charger manufacturers are designing many of their chargers to get around the NEC rule requiring permanently installed EV chargers to be hardwired. If we continue to see issues with plug-in chargers, I would assume that the NEC committees will tighten the rules at some point

[@HawkXe]

This is why I use ferrules to prevent strand wire from getting loose.

[@HawkXe]

@@Kevin-mp5of I'm surprised that I didn't catch that ha!

[@stickyfox]

I tried to install an outlet like this for my welder. My home depot had one outlet that fit in a regular box that had no cover plates in stock, a second outlet that only fit in a second kind of box that they were out of, and surface mount outlets. It was easy to decide which one to get.

[@matthewmiller6068]

Why complicate the ground with cutting it short and then using a pigtail? Most installs I have seen they simply pull the wire over and loop it around the screw on the way to the plug.

[@avlisk]

I took your advice and bought that torque screwdriver. It is a great tool, and better quality than I expected. Thanks.

[@avlisk]

"6 gauge is stubborn" is an understatement! It's tough. I'm glad I only have one box to do.

[@PetesGuide]

Your ground wire under the new green screw is so loose it kept wiggling half out while you were torquing down the outlet wires!!!!!

[@jakeemmamaughan4474]

Videos like this explain the need for electricians

[@arickbakken]

Great follow up video. Stay humble. Everyone makes mistakes (except all the people in the comments bagging this follow up, apparently).

[@mjc0961]

Everyone makes mistakes, some people are just tools and refuse to admit it. ...Actually, I take that back. That would be disrespectful to tools, since tools are useful and those people aren't.

[@rupe53]

@@mjc0961 ... actually, tools are dumb enough to be used incorrectly. It takes a smart person to use then right!

[@mernokimuvek]

Videos like these make me even happier that we have 230/400 V 3 phase service in Europe.

[@pablopicaro7649]

ALTERNATE: Bryant 14-50 (9450FR, made by Hubbell, $55), Hubbell (no neutral) 6-50 (HBL9367, $45)

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

Thanks for the additional information 👍

[@mikebenza]

Bryant is a subbrand of Hubbell and they have a NEMA 14-50R (also part number 7650) that's essentially the same exact outlet but branded differently and much cheaper.

[@JohnBysinger]

The Bryant is also made of bakelite just like the Hubble, definitely a good alternative. Both can handle the duty cycle of an EV charger.

[@InterCity134]

So the rework of this and the torquing brings up a question - given the cables being multi thread - why no ferrules on the cable ends , which is the usual best practice for multistrand cables being clamped down by screw fittings. I think it may not be needed due to the way the terminal clamps in the Hubble outlet secure the cable - that is they act ferrule like by eliminating the issue a ferrule is mostly called for. Explicitly addressing this issue would be good.

[@csimet]

Great video. My biggest pet peeve with most DYI electrical projects... using the cheapest parts people can get for a job. I will never install any receptacle or switch that is not spec grade at the minimum. They are built much better, lasting for far more cycles of operation and really only cost a bit more in most cases. I yanked out all the devices in my basement from a previous owner, as I built my new laundry room, work shop and storage space. Everything they used was cheap garbage worthy of the trash bin only... and all 120V receptacles were back-stabbed connected (not back wired or traditional screw hook)!

[@wallacegrommet9343]

Do back-stab receptacles even accept #12 wire?? Really dislike #14 gauge for anything except lighting- only circuits

[@csimet]

@@wallacegrommet9343 Unsure. I only used 5-20R receptacles and 12-2 (20A circuits) for my builds. I too only use 5-15R and 14-2 (15A) for lighting.

[@kkalafus]

Romex in the conduit (you can see the sheathing) is a no-go in many jurisdictions

[@andrewt9204]

Could be true. I don't think it's strictly forbidden in the NEC, but I know it changes the fill calculation, or maybe it changes to only having the one cable. I looked it up a long time ago but can't remember anymore. As long as the breaker is sized for 60c conductors. Looks like 6ga, so he's good with a 50A breaker. If 8ga, then only 40A. Normally I would never do this, but the extra protection of EMT/FMC in a garage isn't a bad idea. Not sure why he didn't just use THHN though, unless he wasn't able to run EMT all the way back to the panel. In that case I would have ran the NM cable to a disconnect at the garage penetration, then ran EMT+THHN to the receptacle.

[@Keifsanderson]

​@@andrewt9204I'm in a similar situation running a circuit to a garage wall opposite my panel. Romex from the panel up the wall, exposed in the attic across the ceiling, then down through a hole in the ceiling to the receptacle. I want to put the Romex in 3/4 EMT for tidiness and protection, so I considered transitioning to THNN exiting the attic, but didn't do it because I like to avoid unnecessary junctions. Increased resistance and more chances for things to go wrong. I'm not an electrician, though.

[@kristopherbuchanan974]

@@andrewt9204that depends, the 8 is allowed for 50 amps by code if the lowest item in your circuit is rated for 75 degrees. You can indeed use 75 degree column. 60degrees if unknown. This isn’t cutting corners or even a close call, it is perfectly acceptable to use number 8 for 50 amp circuit given that you know your ratings and you have calculated for recommended voltage drop. Nec limits it to 75 degrees for an indefinite amount of time at 50 amps, which means it can handle 50 amps all day everyday and still not compromise the integrity of the conductors insulation or the lowest rated item in the circuit. It is definitely better (and required) to use 60c column if unknown ratings of circuit devices.

[@daveb3910]

Happened to me at my house. The previous owner had run a 12 awg Romex line to a 6-50 welder outlet. Plugged my welder in it and blew the welder off the ground about a foot when all the wires melted together. Luckily it was enclosed in a conduit but very dangerous, glad I found it and not someone else. Granted I should have verified the wire gauge prior to trying to load it but I know to look now. Make sure to verify the wire gauge on any high amp outlet prior to use

[@fauxque5057]

Two things I would recommend. First mount the outlet with the ground up, or down, depending on the cord you're going to be using most often. You want the weight of the cord hanging down, instead of up. I always use ferrules on stranded wire. You touched on wiggling the wires and retorquing them a few times. But over time and any heat cycles will loosen stranded wires. Crimping on a ferrule solves that issue. If your stranded wire gets loose it could cause arcing and cause a fire.

[@iceman9678]

I was thinking the same thing about ferrules. I've also used fork terminals at the end of stranded wire in breaker panels. Stranded wire is very common in construction in Mexico.

[@thesavo]

I hate seeing standard wall plates instead of industrial covers. Good job fixing it.

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

Thanks!

[@Gnefitisis]

I think the mounting plate below the receptacle plate is excessive. The receptacle plate itself mounts to the box and to the receptacle. Unnecessary boxfill.

[@rupe53]

yes, they have sharp edges too!

[@Agg1E91]

Forgive me for asking, because I am not an electrician, nor do I do any electrical DYI anywhere near this demanding. But why do you include 3 ground wires in the box, when you are only securing 2 (to box and plug)? The 3rd appears to be "loose" on one end. I saw the earlier video and thought to myself that the faceplate could be more cosmetically "correct", but I had no idea about the rest. I found this, and the earlier video, quite fascinating. Thank you for taking to time to document and comment on each step in the process.

[@__Man__]

One for the plug, one for box and one for the grounding rod.

[@hassanbazzi3545]

Love the great hints that you covered. Thank you for sharing

[@FoamyDave]

How do you feel about square crimping ferrules on the stranded wires? They are not required but I feel they help make a more secure connection with full contact to the screw terminals.

[@pizzabar3527]

If you notice the metal box used has square edges and seams. I prefer to use the metal boxes with rounded corners, especially for exposed work. I also find it difficult to get the ground screw tight enough in metal boxes with just a screwdriver. I use a screwdriver with a removable bit. Take out the bit and the socket fits the ground screw perfectly..

[@gerdberg4188]

You never should hav cut that ground . Just wrap it around the screw the go to the device

[@danan9037]

i would not cut the ground. fewer splices and less junk in the box. leave the ground long, loop it around the box ground screw then to the receptacle. some have commented the conduit qualifies as a ground, true, but this guarantees the path. the rest of the install was spot on

[@romanotsup8887]

Thank you for video. Few questions: 1. I see you use 3 wire and ground, but many-many other installation videos says that enough to use 2 wire and ground because anyway Tesla charger does not use neutral wire. They leave neutral connection free 2. Many people suggest to use 6 gauge cable for Tesla wall connector with 60Amp breaker. ONLY in one video it says that it is code violation in US, because 6 gauge cable certified to use up to 55 Amp and wire certification must to be higher than breaker. So with 60 Amp breaker should go 4 gauge wire. What do you think about it ?

[@s14slide]

If you're dealing with stranded wires, put ferrules on them. Even more important when you're locking screws tighten down directly onto wire.

[@hvachacker586]

Another note for any garage circuit, it is a “Damp” area circuit. The cord could be in a low impedance grounding path. A GFCI breaker or as people across the pond say a RCD should be used.

[@pld8993]

Damp garages can be classified as damp location but being a garage does not automatically mean it's a damp location.

[@802Garage]

Is there any actual code reason that exposed work MUST use an exposed work cover and cannot have a flush cover on it just for aesthetics?

[@Malibuair]

The cover would have passed.

[@802Garage]

@@Malibuair That's what I thought. I understand the logic of not wanting extended sharp corners, but it really doesn't seem like a big issue. I believe there is part of one code that says something about using cover plates for their intended purpose, and I suppose it could be failed as a flush work cover being used on exposed work, but seems silly to me. Not like an issue covering the actual wiring.

[@pauljanssen7594]

And those new connecters you're talkin about or only good for doing low-amperage circuits like LED light bulbs I've seen too many wires turning purple when they use these.

[@JRP3]

The Hubble and the Bryant are self grounding outlets, you can see the strip running from the grounding screw to the metal mounting plate and you can check for continuity between the metal mounting plate and the ground terminal outlet. You shouldn't need to run the grounding pigtail to the box.

[@mikemaj8467]

Nice job! I am not a professional electrician but do my share of electrical work. What I would do differently would be to not use a push connector for joining the ground wire. I would use a wire nut. I would have installed the metal enclosure box 36" to 48" from the floor or lower. My thought is I wouldn't want to have this at eye level in the event there was an issue like arcing while plugging in, etc. I don't rely on cover screws to pull in a receptacal, especially since the gage wire being used is heavy. I fold the wires inward then attach the cover. Less likely to strip the enclosure box screw threads.

[@fauxque5057]

Nothing wrong with using the wago connectors. They're throughly tested and rated for the application. Sometimes change is good.

[@KE5ZZO]

… since you said plug / unplug would get used a lot more. Is the box mounted to a stud… it seamed to wiggle when you installed cover plate… like just drywall anchor….

[@JCWren]

@user-id1bf1us8w Doesn't matter, it's not what I would consider securely fastened. Without questions you can see the entire box moving as he's tightening the faceplate screws.

[@JCWren]

@user-id1bf1us8w So what exactly is your point? Wrong is wrong. And if he's going to bother replacing the receptacle, fixing the ground, and replacing the cover, why not make sure the box is attached to wall correctly? It's just sloppy.

[@maloney7461]

We just upgraded to the Hubbell brand. It was more expensive, but it is a commercial grade outlet. And is safer for our 2021 Model 3.

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

Yeah, much better build quality. 👍

[@michaelhouston1279]

Nice Video, I have a 220 that I've been needing to install.

[@kristopherbuchanan974]

The point of the torque is to not only prevent under torque, but over torque which is a problem as well. If you tighten to the point (with L shaped allen) that it immediately clicks with the torque screwdriver, then you likely over torqued your lugs. It has a range that you should go by. Over torque is bad for the conductor as well.

[@powellmountainmike8853]

Actually, the two hot leads are both sides of a SINGLE PHASE in a proper 240 volt distribution, and the white the white grounded conductor only conducts the difference between the draw on either side of the phase. Each side, red and black are 180 degrees from each other, indicating they are either side of a single phase to ground, whereas each PHASE of a real three phase circuit is 120 degrees out of synch with the next phase. Of course, if we are talking a cheap take off from 3 phase distribution, using a delta / star transformer, the red and black wires will appear 120 degrees out of phase on an oscilloscope, and depending on the tapping of the transformer windings, may actually only be 208 volts between them, while each still appearing about 120 to ground, because of the phase discrepancy.

[@inspectr1949]

If your using it for an EV charger the NEC requires the circuit(s) to be GFCI protected.

[@spiculum1836]

The box should already be grounded through the EMT pipe. If its not, you have a bigger problem. You only need a pigtail from the box to the NEMA outlet.

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

This one is not as the conduit runs back to an LB at the top of the wall dropping Romex down the wall cavity and into the panel. So the Conduit is not continuous back to the panel.

[@chi027]

A residential 14-50 will do the job if you are not planning on plugging and unplugging from it often. Those receptacles are not made to be plugged and unplugged frequently.

[@pauldow1648]

While screwing on cover it was apparent the assembly was rocking to-and-fro while mounted to sheetrock. There is nothing more subpar than a fixture that gives while pushing or pulling at it. I did not see a conduit strap near the box . Planning for electrical fixtures begins well before framing, or during framing. Some 3/4 plywood or 2x12 braced in between those door ways would serve your home well.

[@JBoy340a]

Nice video. I have a permanently mounted Tesla adapter, and every once in a while, check the adapter lugs to ensure nothing has loosened. This seems to be an issue with Tesla wall mounted charge adapters.

[@danielking2944]

Regarding the need to ground the box ,despite having EMTconduit,what happens if the conduit becomes separated? If the hot wire comes in contact with the metal box,nothing happens! However,a well-grounded electrician will jump off the ladder when he tries to repair the loose box. At least that’s what I did. Should have confirmed that the circuit was off. Live and learn if you are lucky. If not maybe the widow will warn you. A combination of separated conduit and wire pulled loose in hurricane damage convinced me.

[@nasmel3899]

You fixed your friend's mistakes lol. On the description of that video you should point those mistakes up too

[@zduckx2173]

You stated it was 10 gauge wire (it possibly looks larger). For a EV charger or a 7500watt heater, I do believe you would need minimum 8 gauge for the 31+amp heater( which should be wired for 38+ Amps by code where I live) and 6 gauge for the charger on a 50 amp breaker in conduit. I personally would never have undersized wire to an outlet that could have a full amperage appliance plugged into it , like a 50 amp welder or especially one that's continuous draw for a long time, like a EV charger. There are worksheets all over the internet for these specs.

[@wildcatmahone-md6me]

If i remember the original install that emt did not run all the way to the breaker box. That's why he made a pigtail inside the j box.

[@tinkeringwithelectronics]

I didn't read all your comments. Sorry, but that box also seemed loose on the wall. I'd hate to pull that heavy duty plug and have the box and conduit swing out. Good video.

[@christobaldaetz6062]

What is going to happen with the new codes is that all receptacles located in the garage will have to be GFCI protected, including the 50 amp car charger receptacles! The electric car manufacturer it is required for the installation. Tesla chargers the GFCI is built into the unit! The GFCI breaker is well over $100.00 . So that cost for installation of a car charger circuit will definitely be greater. And possibly we will also be installing an exhaust fan in the garage because of the gasses given off from charging these dumb electric cars.

[@rupe53]

EV batteries are sealed and don't out-gas. Also, Tesla recommends NOT installing an additional GFIC because their charge has one built in. You may need to show that to your inspector and get the nod if you are on new code. He may also require the charger be hardwired instead of cord / plug.

[@sciatl2505]

Does it need to be GFCI per 2020 nec all 250 volts or less receptacles in garages

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

Need to check your area. For this house we are still on 2014 NEC so no GFCI needed just yet.

[@larrykelly2838]

Very informative, I need one of these.

[@lufknuht5960]

Thanks for info on tork screwdriver. I don't like your WACO spring connector; I figure the contact surface is too small & it will get loose & burn eventually. Meanwhile I saw a test where compared with twist wire nuts the WACO has more resistance & generates more heat. No me gusta.

[@markdecker9095]

Just like a normal 120V convenience receptacle there is nothing in the code book that prevents you from installing more than 1 240V outlet on a circuit. You could install a receptacle on each side of the garage for 2 vehicles and another receptacle for your 240V space heater. Just keep in mind like any circuit you plug something into all 3 it will undoubtedly trip due to overload.

[@fucheduck]

wired an outlet for a range/oven. I screwed the box on a beam and then flush with the drywall(like most standard outlets) can you do tihs or must you have the box exposed for a range? (as in not flush with the drywall) The range I am looking at is called the "Summit Appliance" 20" 3.2 cubic feet. Sold at Home Depot and Amazon. also indicates "2 inches from wall"(or some vague picture-does not actually say much else.)

[@kezzajam]

Australian perspective on this: It's like visiting a different plant seeing un-sheathed ground wire. And you'd never see metal conduit here.

[@airsoftindude]

Metal is great for exposed work. Keeps it safe from morons

[@Blackford86]

I thought You said you were going to put a link to that new outlet I don’t see it

[@intoeverything2023]

I'd put a strap on that conduit somewhere near the box. Especially knowing you're gonna be plugging and unplugging. That Hubble receptacle is a snug fit for the male end.

[@nunyabusiness6746]

Personally I like the old fashioned tried and true wire nuts with a little good quality electrical “Scotch 33” tape, wound in the tightening direction for several reasons which I won’t get into, over the thing.

[@taylorsutherland6973]

I generally use #6 Aluminum SER for these applications. As long as it's not buried in insulation it is good for 50 amps. Although, I believe all electric chargers are limited to 32 or 34 amps. So a 40A breaker would be sufficient, and that puts you in the 60C colum.

[@michaelrauff734]

Careful with the aluminum ser, some of the car chargers specifically are rated copper only.

[@taylorsutherland6973]

@michaelrauff734 I've only wired in the 14-50r like this video. Never had anyone order a charger yet. In VFD applications where it's a long run etc, I use a disconnect to transition from AL to CU.

[@dominicm2175]

I believe aluminum wire as a substitute is perfectly acceptable as a cost saving measure with my only input being the consideration of a potentially corrosive environment such as the application having exposure such as being geographically located adjacent to the ocean in which case copper may be the preferred conductor

[@monteclark1115]

With the device and the wire combined, the box seems a little small. Maybe use a 4-11/16 box.

[@pld8993]

The box is too small according to box fill rules. The conduit is also too small according to conduit fill rules. The original video was so bad and filled with NEC violations I think he felt compelled to make this one to save face.

[@christfollower1768]

I always tape my Wego lever nut levers as you can see one of the levers is loose after you close the box. Excellent video overall.

[@michaelabell8963]

I would say any major brand, listed receptacle would do the job just fine unless you switching between your heater and car charger a couple times per day?! RV parks get new customers on the reg that plug in and out. Guarantee they’re not using the hub bell nor is the initial equipment sold with the hub bell.

[@woodymiller3895]

Why didn't you use Nox on your wires, Dissimilar metals?

[@charlesc.6767]

As a 45 yr electrician i dont use wagos. I throw them away. They fail after heavy use such as circuits with plug in heaters , aircon or other heavy loads .

[@suemagruder4455]

Is this install restricted to your application? Can the other receptacles work for stoves and dryers without harm?

[@FyreFiend]

They’ll work fine for those. The fancy expensive one is being used here because of the amp load he’ll be putting on it and because he’s looking to swap what’s plugged into it now and then

[@suemagruder4455]

@@FyreFiend thanks.

[@coconutplanet2186]

💙💙💙 love this video. thank you so much!!!!

[@ehudgavron9086]

All good, but save the bucks and make a NEMA 14-50R to NEMA 14-50P patch cable for $35. ($15 for either end and $5 for one foot of 10-3 wire.) Plug it into the "cheap" $20 receptalce, and plug things into it. If the patch receptacle goes bad, you can replace it five times over and still make out cheaper than the $110 one. If you're feeling really frisky, add $15 and make it into a NEMA14-50P to 2xNEMA14-50Rs and plug your EV charger into one side and any other appliance (space heater) to the other. Don't use them at the same time. Zero plugging and unplugging after the first time. They'll last forever. Total cost = 1x NEMA14-50P, 2xNEMA14-50R, and 2ft 10-3 cable. $30. Much cheaper than one Hubbell, and zero plugging and unplugging, and one time wiring.

[@drwhoeric]

If I were doing the Ground Bonding, I would not have shortened the ground, but have wrapped it around the box bonding screw and continue it to the Receptacle.

[@RS-ls7mm]

The gauge of the ground wire seems much smaller than the other conductors.

[@benjurqunov]

That's because it's 10 gauge ground wire.

[@RS-ls7mm]

@@benjurqunov According to local code the ground wire has to be at least as large as the other conductors.

[@benjurqunov]

@@RS-ls7mm It must suck to do electrical work in your location.

[@joemugg2213]

Excellent video!

[@fhuber7507]

7:00 Operating your torque measuring device at its max limit is "bad engineering practice." The highest accuracy will be at center of range. Generally you want to keep to the middle 1/3 of the settings range. You need a device that measures to a higher value. You will find that torque wrenches are available in a series of ranges (using the same units) and that the ranges overlap.

[@MrNeptunebob]

Would it be possible to use the surface mounted outlet like that used on electric ranges? Seems like it would be much simpler.

[@alexdmd]

That's what I use and it works fine

[@wkdavistx]

I always use 6 gauge wire for 50A receptacles. 8 gauge for 40A and 10 gauge for 30A.

[@thenexthobby]

I can appreciate the upgrade. So those terminals are recessed but there's still exposed metal from the backside holes, yeah?

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

A bit but much harder to contact as compared to the original outlet.

[@BeardedOneWithBeard]

You are allowed to use the EMT conduit as an equipment grounding conductor. Assuming that that the conduit provides a continuous connection back to your breaker panel, your box was already grounded, and your installation did not violate code.

[@BeardedOneWithBeard]

I just watched the other video, and I see that the EMT conduit did not terminate at the panel and was not grounded, so you are right; this was a code violation. I hope you tightened up that grounding screw.... I also noticed in the other video that, in your panel, there are neutral conductors connected under the same lug as ground wires. I'm pretty sure you're only supposed to have one conductor per lug where the neutral conductors are terminated, but you can double up ground wires. (NEC 408.41). Maybe this wasn't required when the original installation was done?

[@barfy4751]

Always run a ground in each conduit. Fittings can loosen up over time. Grounds are permitted to be doubled up depending if the panel buss bar is listed for that

[@BeardedOneWithBeard]

@@barfy4751 that's fine, you can run a ground wire if you want. The code just doesn't require a ground wire if the raceway is grounded.

[@maximumtso-wy1fw]

Another nice DIY video. Thank you 🙏

[@sophiegrisom]

Hard-wiring an EV charger is best. Many owners have had a Nema 14-50 outlet melt on a car charger. If you do use a plug, buy the best quality one (>$50). To allow for heater use, you could both hardwire the EV charger and wire a plug in parallel. 8 awg THHN stranded wire in conduit is rated 55 A. Best to coat the wires with anti-ox, even copper wire. Most EV chargers use just 2 hots with no neutral return, so could save running a wire. Don't know about your heater. I don't know if code to not wire the neutral to a plug, but OK for hard-wiring.

[@pld8993]

There's no reason to put anti-ox on copper.

[@stephenpetersen354]

Use an RV outlet. They come with an enclosure that is a lot cleaner and a cover for general safety. They are also designed to run a full size RV. It's more reasonably priced.

[@tonyaiello6463]

How about changing the box too?

[@hqs9585]

can you use PBC or plastic like piping and outlet box?

[@TAGUPNBLUE]

Still had one or two code violation where's the strap-on the EMT. question Wago??? quality on the ground a dead short you probably blow it up did you torque the EMT connector that part of the grounding system question wire size 50 amp plug looks like number 8 wires number 6 THHN is needed