NO More MDF!!!

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[@frankpitigliano120]

I'm a 40-year veteran of fine woodworking I've been watching you KZbin You're a humble man keep up the good work

[@a46222]

This guy has been out working and building a business. He's been transparent about learning, mistakes, growing as a carpenter and as a business owner. I've been watching for a long time. Takes a lot of courage to do that in a trade. Especially finish carpentry. ESPECIALLY finish carpentry, damn. I'm a general contractor and I still learn every day. Probably forget something everyday also! I enjoy these videos, keep it up!

[@warrenkennan9974]

I saw the video and your comment about being called a cardboard carpenter. I have to say that I never comment because it’s usually a dumping ground for trolls, but I feel obliged to say something. As a DIY’er with a passion for what you pros do on a daily basis, I have to say your videos and skills are top notch. One thing that stands out to me is your passion to do things right and perform fantastic finish carpentry for everyday clients. Not everyone can afford maple trim throughout. Keep doing what your doing and I’ll keep watching!

[@kurtnutin3968]

I have posted this statement before , I have been in trenches for almost (months short ) of 40 years , I have been a finish carpenter 30 years of that , enough of the credentials! 5 years ago I was diagnosed with stage 4 cancer of the throat , there was a 9 year stretch I did inordinate amount of work with MDF , I cannot say it was solely complicit of my diagnosis . But what I can tell you , is the symptoms after spending days cutting it , sore throat , a lot mucus, and yes I did go to n95 masks constantly. Then set up vacuuming, but the micro fine dust still prevailed , you have the idea , I’m still vertical and still out there ,but the residual effects have taken years off the back end . My point use alternative materials when you can , accompanied with masks and dust collection when inside this is a must, just a heads up , take heed

[@trevorblue]

The damage the dust does to your motors, cost doesn't balance out

[@kurtnutin3968]

Trevor Blue excellent practical point

[@karenburns507]

My brother says he got sick with respiratory issues, every time he cut MDF. He maintains it is going to be the next “asbestos”.

[@jarbasclareto3112]

So glad this issue is being addressed. MDF is full of chemicals. Hope you get well, master!

[@briant9764]

couldnt be better said

[@clintprice2123]

I don’t use MDF but would never criticize someone who does, what’s the point? Different people do things different ways. Richard has superior mechanical skills to most trim carpenters and if it works for his jobs then that’s great. I enjoy all of these videos and even after 44 years in the field I still learn from his techniques. People need to really stare in the mirror and decide if it’s really better if they just kept the nasty comments to themselves. More often (almost always) than not it’s the best choice.

[@ABH313]

I was going to write a similar comment but I couldn't have said it any better than you. These guys do amazing work and their customer are always happy. Seriously, look them up on Google. Plus how many ppl put themselves out here for the world to see like he does? Basically no one. I love this guy and his channel. He's a veteran, he's a family man, he's got the skills to run a successful business with clients lining up and waiting for his services, he still like to learn and improve, he gives back to the community both locally and the whole damn internet, and he likes to fish... No one should be hating on this guy for anything. 👍

[@samo4648]

Yes different people use different ways. But using MDF isn't a different way it's an inferior material. That's why he's moving away from it

[@kevinryan2626]

Well said, we can all learn from each other and there’s no need for criticism.

[@1982MCI]

The folks making the negative comments are generally folks that can’t do the work at all or are jealous of his abilities and it makes them feel better about themselves to talk negative about Richard and try to make him look bad to others but it only shows their ignorance instead Take care and be safe guys

[@samo4648]

@@1982MCI stop being a kiss ass. No one is doubting his abilities to do the work it's obvious he's good. But MDF is not better than wood and that's why he's using wood now

[@robertogamez1907]

I like how you always have floors protected whether it be paper drop cloths plastic there's always something very professional

[@elguero928]

I subscribed to your channel a couple years ago because your humble. You don’t know everything but you show your way of doing things that work for you. And that’s important.

[@pauljenkinson8798]

I believe that the last time,I commented on your site was about the advantage of using copped vs mitered inside corners for crown. You didn't blow me off as some kind of old back in the day gizzer. If fact you were very respectful, and wrote a great response. So I knew from that you were going to have a successful career in the finish business and that outlook would probably lead to a successful you tube channel. Well it's great to see that you are continuing to be successful in both arenas. I'm happy to see you make the decision to try and use a real wood product. I agree that MDF has a place in interior trim and always will but for my money Windsor One and other top quality paint grade fj wood moldings provide your owners with a higher quality product. In the "valve for money equation" they are superior in almost all applications of interior trim. Not only that but real wood it's so much more interesting, challenging, and healthy of a product to install. In my career there are a couple hand tools that have become invaluable trimming with real wood and I encourage you to consider. Buy the best low angle block plane you can afford. I've an old Stanley "Sweetheart" but there are better ones made and produced currently. Have a quiver of hand saws and even a back saw always raiser sharp and available. In this line of work you will never need one with less than 12 pti so an 8 pt need not apply. I've got both traditional western push and Japanese pull in softer words I prefer push on harder pull. While I mentioned planes I also carry a smoothing and two different kinds of spoke shaves. Next would a set of chisels so shaper you can shave with them,, I have a set of Marples that are probably 50 years old. They never leave their leather pouch until used and then go right back in after doing their thing. Real wood has grain and grain is the bane of a carpenters existence,,, MDF has none. Grain no matter how fine will affect the cut and demands a sharper tool. Speaking of which lean to sharper all you tools, including your saws if you have time but at minimum your planes and chisels. I rarely a adjust the machine cut on MDF by any other means than abrading,,I always adjust real wood cut with another cutting tool,,, must often with a plane, then chisel second, and finally hand saw. So in you next interaction, I expect to one day open your channel and find that you are primarily installing paint grade poplar, but mostly stain grade appearance millions of oak, cherry, walnut and maple!! Great channel, but I suggest an alteration to the title; Trim TV; evolution of a trim carpenter's life from journeyman to master,,, yes probably not a little to pretentions,,, humble is better. And "Keep up the good work"

[@pauljenkinson8798]

@jami w sorry you missed my point,, but learning the hard way is often the best

[@michael.schuler]

@@pauljenkinson8798 What some of the younger generation are missing is that true understanding of traditional methods and tools is the foundation for getting the most from the ever-evolving modern ones. And IMO the willingness and ability to mix and match tools and methods, including both the oldest and the newest, according to the specifics of the job at hand, is at the heart of craftsmanship. The old masters accepted that maintaining and inventing tools were just part of the gig. They focused on achieving perfect and lasting results --- and did so by whatever means necessary.

[@Hunter-yc4xi]

It's bad enough when you get lazy drywallers that hump they're flats or rough in carpenters who focus on rough. But when you pay for dimensional lumber and trim that's out of dimension, that just trips my trigger!

[@mymorristribe]

"That really hurts" lol, I almost feel the sarcasm. Love your humor.

[@Cimone90]

As a weekend warrior doing my own work slowly on my own house, I love solid wood for furniture that I make but for trim I really like mdf. It's just easy to work with, it's always straight, easy to cope, and it's cheap so if I make mistakes it's not a huge deal.

[@shootermcgavin1554]

In the Midwest, 90% of our trim is finger jointed primed pine, very little MDF. The painters do not like MDF either. All built-ins are poplar, along with all ceilings, fireplace build outs, wall build outs, and built in closet finishes.

[@musicgroopie1]

I did trim work from 83 to 88 and after military service 92 to 96. I trimmed with a master carpenter and we worked in Dallas doing remodels and new construction in the Inwood area where Ross Perot and the likes lived. In the late eighties, builders were trying to skimp and use mdf in million dollar homes. If this stuff gets wet, it becomes sawdust mush. We refused to use it because of the warranty work involved. Finger joint is good to or painted areas and grade A for stained areas all with furniture tight joints. When we left a house it was there for life.

[@samuelraymond689]

Good on you! My house is 15 years old and and I am re-trimming the interior of our house. I am doing a classic craftsman style and I did not want to use MDF. I discovered W1 and I LOVE it, you wont be disappointed!

[@skmmlk5379]

For trim and a trimmer the nice thing about mdf is its always straight as opposed to cuped bowed and twisted real wood its also a smoother finish than real wood.

[@bradley3549]

I agree. I used to stick to real wood because it was "better". Then I ordered MDF on accident and realized every stick was exactly the same as the last. Seemed like every joint was invisible with no effort.

[@michaelmaas5544]

A 35 year carpenter here and I don’t know how you work with MDF on the daily. I’m lucky enough to be able to get about anything I need in a primed pine of popular.

[@jabtothehead9942]

What happens if the walls aren't plumb or level, will the gaps not be square and it will just look odd. would it not be better to make a perfect square outer border first?

[@teresab6383]

I’m not a carpenter but from watching you I think you take pride in you work. I love it when someone cares about their work

[@dominioncrowntv5197]

Thank you Richard! Your attention to detail is unparalleled. I'm a finish carpenter myself and always looking to strengthen my skills. You're channel is one of the best. Keep this gold coming 👊

[@euphoria156]

Thats NOT attention to detail. He didnt tell us at @12:54 suddenly there was this Brown board at the back of the accent wall, you didnt tell what it is , neither how to put that up there?!!

[@dominioncrowntv5197]

No, it is attention to detail. What you're referring to is a different subject with editing and teaching. I was referring to the craftsmanship. Also, he says at 12:20 he is going to rip the sheets down.. He talks about the sheets in multiple wainscot videos. It's called masonite and it's used to eliminate the spray texture on the walls. The masonite is nailed around the perimeter and into the studs. He uses pl premium in the field of the sheet

[@dactime3780]

I use a lot of finger joint pine and the majority of it does come primed. I do look the pieces over prior to installation and sometimes there is a blemish or two in the primer application, but nothing a quick hit with some sand paper doesn't fix. If I do run into a situation where I can't get the material primed I just prime it before the installation. I find it is easier for me to sand and prime it on some saw horses rather than in place after the install. Thanks for all your work here I really enjoy your channel and have learned many many things from watching it.

[@IllGetMyTools]

Definitely agree with you man. Prefer wood all day. But I’ve down some wainscoting and wall detail where the Mdf did work out better.

[@mattdouglass6482]

I also follow insider carpentry and bought the HIPUR gun he recommended. I had moderate success with it. I felt like the strength wasn’t that great until it was able to set over night on window and door casing. The ease of removing squeeze out is awesome versus the CA glue. We pre-assemble all of our window and door casings and during installation actually broke a couple of joints while manipulating them into place. We decided to let them sit overnight and then the strength was incredible. Just my experience with it.

[@cryptocarpenter4157]

Looks great for a "cardboard carpenter"! You use whatever materials make the most sense for the job. Anyone doing trim and accent walls should know this. Makes your life easier and that's the point.

[@Bill39NYC]

I stopped using MDF ply woods years ago and switched to MDO ply- Medium density overlay, it has a brown paper top layer, I also use lots of FJP( finger jointed primed) 1"x12" , Im in the NYC area and get all of my moulding from Lenoble lumber

[@aaronwilton8738]

Just a suggestion that I do. So on that first vertical board you put on that you had to scribe after you put the 15 degree bevel on it. This wouldn’t work always but I use a palm sander to remove what needs to be removed. Works good if you only need to remove little amounts

[@rebadaddy]

I very much enjoy your videos and the confidence that "you can do this too" that you project. I have bought many of the tools that you use and recommend and enjoy using them. You even gave me the confidence to tackle a wainscoting project of my own that I never would have attempted w/o your helpful instruction. That being said I would like to see you go into more detail on how to handle the challenges of uneven walls and not square corners. You do touch on it when it comes up but I would like to see maybe a whole more detailed video dedicated to overcoming the daily finishing challenges that all of us "cardboard carpenters" face.

[@JR-qj5zw]

Insider Carpenter and you are both very good at what you do.

[@mattbastian3964]

Why did you leave that outlet in the trim and not move it over and be in the wall like the other one that would drive me crazy if in my house

[@cayres6898]

Wish I could get your "cardboard carpentry" skills. Great stuff and as always enjoy the high quality videos and audio. Nice that everything comes through sounding clear in the commentary and narration. Probably takes a fair bit of time editing these!

[@Ball_drips]

I like to run the boards through a planer before hand. One pass usually does it. The joints will come together much nicer. Lot less sanding. Get yourself a portable DeWaukee 13” planer.

[@shawngrace6322]

I love mdf, I saw a video where you don't know anyone who does everything in builds,frame, drywall, plumbing,paint,trim, electrical,custom stairs, and design cool custom built ins,etc. I have made a complete living on all trades.certified in most where needed, different woods for different projects,love your videos, thank you for sharing,God bless you and your family.

[@Young_Star]

Around here pine and MDF are basically the same price.

[@coreyjones2694]

I work for Builders First Source in New Jersey. We stock and ship a lot of primed FJ 1x. They have locations in TX but I don't know what they stock. May be worth a look. Also BFS just merged with BMC so you may see some changes at your local supplier. Keep up the good work. I'm hooked on your videos!

[@johngrossbohlin7582]

Another advantage of using solid wood over MDF is you can use block and other planes to finely trim up to the scribe lines...

[@ottokriete1153]

I feel for ya, Richard.. and I'm right there with you... MDF really does have its place, but for me, it has always been a measure of last resort. Don't let the haters get you down... they're gonna come around eventually for a couple of reasons... first: you're very good at what you do, and you take the time to explain your reasoning behind what you do.. and Second: you possess a degree of humility that one doesn't often find with someone who has mastered his craft. I've been a finish carpenter for over 35 years, and I appreciate what you do , and who you are. Just keep being you, brother!

[@crownmoldingbyspectaculart941]

In my area I use Windsor 1x s4s instead of poplar for painted built ins and mantels. It actually is less expensive, they’ve cut all the knots out of it, and they come in reliable lengths. I have mixed feelings about working with MDF but they both have their advantages depending on the project. The best thing about MDF is that the material comes in 16 and 17 foot lengths and doesn’t have splits, twist etc for production trim work. Nice video.

[@1LSUredneck]

I mostly use wood for trim, but I love using mdf for my window stools. I normally put a routed edge and the mdf is so nice to work with.

[@jeffshackleford3152]

If you make your outer most stiles go all the way up the wall, you can easily compensate for dips in the wall like that by scribing to the wall and still build the panels faceframe style.

[@eltanoster]

Also Windsorone is straight , primed and with a 30 year warranty . I love working with Windsorone. Just make sure to prime all cuts. Craftsmanship pays !

[@Chip57]

Make Craftsmanship great again!

[@michaelhartman851]

For about 5 years or so I've eliminated mdf only use it when matching existing moulding, the advantage to using fjp is was more durable and literally one flood in a house and all the mdf moulding is destroyed.

[@LaLaLucky7777]

Nice to see the tricks I learned are still being used today!!!!

[@yeahthatshouldwork]

I really enjoy your videos and I have learned a few tricks from you. I held a C6 contractors license here in California and worked as a "finish carpenter" for 18 years before going to medical field. Thanks for putting out content while still doing the trim work.

[@SandyStMay]

I am always impressed by the way you come up with solutions to new problems. I wonder if you lay in bed at night with ideas running around in you head thinking how to proceed the next day, I do and my problems (woodworking) are simple ones. Many times I find the answer then.

[@michaelwangler486]

Windsorone is carried by my mill shop. Quality and consistency are important attributes I like about their products. I used MDF for some trim in my house 20 years ago, some of it is still okay, but most has show to be problematic: Susceptible to water, chips easy on door casing and mushrooming from nailing.

[@MP-yz6sb]

Wow, this is looking good. I'm just a homeowner but I'm getting ready to do something similar on a wall in my home. If it turns out well I will do other rooms. I went to both big box stores yesterday to look at lumber to use. Every single piece was warped after so many feet so I will be using MDF because it's straight. I can't afford the best but I want the end product to look as professional as I can get it. I have that texture on my walls as well and I've been sweating bullets over the thought that I might have to skim coat it. I've seen that "hardy board" (?) before but I wasn't sure how it's installed. I figured I'd have to cover the wall first but it looks like you got the frame up first and then cut it into individual pieces to fit inside the grid? I hadn't thought about gluing the joints. That's a damn nice house that you are working on. In the state that I live in, that home would be over $1M...depending on the lot. I can see why you used wood as opposed to MDF. I've learned a lot watching this video.

[@parkerfetters7588]

We have the choice between finger joint, primed finger joint, and primed mdf. I avoid the primed finger joint because the primer is super rough and takes a lot of sanding. The raw finger joint is my preference but I’ll take the primed mdf second because it does finish nice and smooth. You don’t always get the choice.

[@garagedweller7159]

Can't beat real wood. Never liked that cardboard stuff. Your craftsmanship is evident in the final product regardless of what you use.

[@als1023]

I have avoided MDF for my career, never regretted the exposure of urea Formaldehyde and all the other toxins that release into the interior space it is installed in for several years after words. Bi fan of this channel and very happy to see you take a stand !

[@andrewdarnley4608]

MDF has its place in an industry that always has pressure on the price of a job or the specs the builder is working to. Are you going to miss out on a job because you’re not prepared to meet the market ? And for the guys that are knocking his material choice put up your own KZbin channel and show use your work.

[@huejanus5505]

Al S Sawdust is carcinogenic

[@thulegezelschap5884]

Andrew Darnley I’m just a DIYer but I try to avoid MDF, I can’t stand the way the edges and corners are so weak.

[@MrPopmuzc]

Poplar is what I love for trim at my house. But money is no object when you do it for your own house.

[@fideljr061]

great videos !!!! as a safety tip be careful with the ladders. at the 10:46 you can see the ladder is not fully extended.

[@carl3500]

My first experience with the hyper was not so good. When I sanded the join the hyper didn't sand down at the same rate as the wood also noticed the glue expanded a week later.

[@InsiderCarpentry]

Having a tight joint is important. If the joint is tight the joint will be invisible. But when there is a buildup of glue you will get the issue you are talking about. Clamps and pinch dogs help.

[@carl3500]

@@InsiderCarpentry idk what went wrong. I see you using them all the time with great results. I used clamclamps and everything for some reason it was not cooperating.

[@clysack07]

Don’t worry about the haters. You are very skilled in your trade.

[@ThaGreatestAlexander]

Forget about those comments “cardboard carpenter” Cardboard is underrated. I can’t wait for cardboard studs

[@chefsteven34]

ThaGreatestAlexander - Cardboard Emporium Cardboard ledger plates; holding your deck joist in place for the next 90 seconds. The list goes on & on.

[@darkdelta]

@@chefsteven34 I had a visual on that, all that was missing was the sound!!!

[@ericnielsen3138]

Cardboard workbenches might catch on...

[@chefsteven34]

Eric Nielsen - catch on fire most likely...

[@a_w_bukhari7579]

They do have them in New Zealand, if you watch Scott Brown Carpentry, supported by Matt Build Show.

[@mikeovermarsstone891]

This guy is the best carpenter on the net every video is superb and so accurate

[@walterpetersen8750]

I know not main part of the video but love that base detail what reveal ends up on the top portion that the 1x6 goes over? Feel like that would be a slick baseboard detail even with out the rest of the wall.

[@frankstover3444]

Thats what I'm talking about! Beautiful!!! Awesome job Richard!!!!

[@stevekroodsma5747]

I'm a novice DIYer and about to do my first crown project - I got the impression that MDF is more forgiving and easier to maneuver than wood. I'm trying to minimize the chances of me screwing something up. Will using wood be measurably more difficult, especially for a beginner? Should I go with MDF or wood? Help me Richard, you're my only hope!

[@madmastermat]

Haters are gonna hate when it comes to things they feel intimidated by. Your skills are legendary and I’ve learned so much from your videos. Don’t worry about the cardboard haters. You could use the best high quality product and they would still find something to say about it... this is a case of it’s not you it’s them, lol.

[@dsdragoon]

Looks like you need to run your trim through a planer or a thickness sander.

[@larrys639]

I wasn't gonna say anything.....but since you brought it up.......Good for you, Richard! I always thought - you spend so much time doing meticulous perfection and attention to detail - what a waste not doing it out of real wood....especially in the homes you work in, your customers should demand real wood. MDF trim is for my neighborhood LOL Always enjoy your work!

[@kirkwd8829]

Honestly, I can see how those comments would be lame. I am now a retired finish carpenter of oh most 30 years. Your videos are well done and enjoyable to watch. Both products have their advantages and disadvanteges. MDF is used too much in wet areas and in my opinion, not good for your health what so ever in terms of dust. Thank you again for your videos.

[@stargateproductions]

As a painter I prefer real wood over MDF. Real wood can get wet and retain it shape, MDF not so much. I've had the displeasure over the years trying to repair the stuff after it gets wet.

[@rstynailz]

I'm also a painter. At this point I absolutely refuse to fix MDF. Replace it or live with it.

[@MaydaysCustomWoodworks]

Interesting point... I don't like MDF but I love Super Refined MDF. SRMDF is superior in many ways to wood in many situations. But that makes sense... Water will destroy the paint of both MDF and wood if it gets under the surface. But wood may be repaired instead of replaced. Makes sense.

[@darrenlesueur4785]

Most of the mdf now has risen's in the glue that make it much more water resistant and performs similar if not better than that soft pine. As cabinet guy that uses fine finish paint (lacquer) I need to have a flawless material to paint or else I'm doing a lot of sanding. With the right sealer mdf is without a doubt the way to go . When your using a rubber glove to cover your work I guess it hides 18 gauge nails holes and any material that you use. I do like the finger joint material. I used to think it was garbage just a mill trying to use up there scrap. But now I realize the advantages to an engineered product vs a natural product. It's easy to say this is real wood so it's better. that's what most people think when it comes to woodworking . But when you doing carpentry everyday and you deal with all the different problems(I've never seen a strait wall) that come up when you're trying to make something look good that last thing you want is to deal with is a piece of moulding that's warped or bowed and now your fighting to get that to fit. When your trying to make a living doing carpentry you need all the help and save money as you can . Personally I buy 12 ft sheets of 3/4 mdf and ripp it up into any dimensions I need and use a shaper or router to make my own moulding . Unless I need alot of LF .It saves me money and time and I can get that piece I need instead of hoping the manufacturer makes something close.

[@MaydaysCustomWoodworks]

@@darrenlesueur4785 thanks for the input. And Rusty's comment made me look into some water Resistent super Refined MDF. in theory it should actually be more water resistant than natural wood, but the case is still made that when it gets destroyed it must be replaced .... But at least with a moisture Resistent super Refined MDF it will be harder to destroy than wood once the water gets under the paint

[@stargateproductions]

@@darrenlesueur4785 I get that but in my area it's a common practice to put MDF in commonly wet areas like bathrooms and window ledges. It swells up and becomes almost impossible to repair. I also think perfection is overrated, I'd rather have have a product with a few inconsistencies but is durable, than one that is not. There is a reason why old buildings with natural materials outlive their owners. Just my two cents though.

[@1BadRAMLimited]

Broooo your attention to detail.speaks on levels!

[@Otto-W]

In the Pacific Northwest you can get wide crown materials in solid, finger jointed or MDF, but it helps being close to the source.

[@chefsteven34]

Your level of creativity, & skill on measurements are amazing! Shout out to John, with his comment in the last video, about the wall. The odd number of panels horizontally, would look better with odd number of panels vertically. The even number of panels horizontally, WOOD look better with an even number of panels vertically. (See what I did there?) Finger joint pine joke.

[@brendonburgin5250]

I watch a channel on youtube called Essential Craftsman a builder/carpenter whose name is Scott. He has a playlist on a spec house that he has shared from the very start to finish. In the episode 113 he mention your channel and you as being very talented at what you do. I was just wondering if you watch his videos & if you don't can I recommend that you do. Scott is very good at what he does as well so I just wanted to let you know you have a fan of you great work.

[@jasonmaes6021]

Only people who don’t have the skills to do what you’re doing make stupid comments like that. Men who are good at what they do don’t have time to be negative. I’ve used all your videos to start doing trim “professionally” while not welding during Covid. I watched This Old House my whole life and used that to do crown before but your videos make it clear and easy to learn. Your glue was the game changer for me as well. I’ll post a few bad videos to my channel to show the crown I’m doing with tips and tricks I learned from you sir. I appreciate you.

[@ericohman]

In Sweden all base and crown molding come painted white. You can find mdf too but not as common as pine. It’s harder to purchase base and crown that’s unpainted. I live in an 200yr old house where we sometimes need to use mdf and even PU molding to make the job go reasonably fast :) Concave and slightly slanted walls/roofs etc makes things hard

[@coonanfox01]

Have you ever had MDF shrink over the course of 2-3 years??? I quit using it after finding gaps in my moldings bc of shrinkage. May not be an issue in the south but definitely shrinks here in New York.

[@jmackinjersey1]

The various thickness in materials is why you need to invest in a planer, be it a hand planer to hit the ends and taper or a table top for the entire piece. It makes a world of difference.

[@joegrimes6485]

Windsor is some of the best product I’ve ever worked with . From a standpoint of preprimed trim board .

[@kingjohnnygoo]

Hey man, been working in the industry myself for 5 years now, but we never get the chance to do finish trim like this everyday, I really wish I could! But saying that I love watching your videos, you give great advice, you keep it simple and your so humble! Please keep it up! My wife thinks I’m weird watching other carpenters on KZbin haha

[@debloui]

I’m learning so much from your channel, and going back and watching old videos. I was wondering why you out there brown board inside the trim? Can you not just leave the drywall there? Just curious as to why this is done. Thanks! Love from Australia 🇦🇺

[@mikedesirey5460]

Gave me the gospel from Winser one and was saved from mdf. Love that

[@OB1974]

It looks like you are using masonite in the squares. What size do you use (thickness) and what do you use as a primer and final paint coat? The last time I did mine I used a very smooth plywood panel and it just didn't paint up right. I appreciate your videos. Good descriptions of the detailed work.

[@peterschut63]

I love your video's, not really need your level of attention to my next project (a new workshop) but it is great to see the perfectionism that goes into your work. One question though. As you are using real wood and you make everything very tight fitting, aren't you afraid of crimp or expansion due to humidity changes?

[@Jddlincoln]

I am a huge windsor one fan. Been using it for years. Definitely a superior product compared to some of the other fjp manufacturers out there.

[@JP-ty6by]

Finish Carpentry; just want to say i luv ur videos cause ur such a perfectionist n i learn so many good tips from u on how to do good work. I have a question, i am doing board n batten n a bathroom n was wondering how u do the slats against the door. Since the door has the same size trim, would u use that as ur first slat or do u butt ur first slat up against the door trim? (Hope that makes sense). 😟

[@gerberdesignco]

Do you have a video of how you figure out the spacing for everything on the wall?

[@miketibbetts2175]

I can tell you take a lot of pride in your work, you don't see that in todays world. Good videos, enjoy watching 👍

[@jeffvanblommestein6767]

I recently made a huge mistake by using 7 1/4 × 5/8 MDF shiplap on a ceiling.... Unfortunately the ceiling was extremely wavy and the MDF just mimicked the contours of the drywall... They were 20' vaulted ceiling and I didnt anticipate this problem.... Wish I would have used pine or something more rigid to float over the low points... Hard lesson

[@douglashouck6556]

Love watching you grow and advance in your craft. Enjoy your journey.

[@dylandembeck4344]

would you do this technique with stain grade work? i am doing full wall oak paneling similar layout overtop of oak 3/4 ply. trying to decide if nail and hotmelt would be sufficient or if i should pocket screw whole wall sections like you do your wainscoting.

[@davidibbitson7585]

I've done Windsor One on a few houses -- great product. In my experience though it still at least needs a light sanding and another primer coat. MDF is still great for a lot of things, like wainscot paneling.

[@guhomesconstructionllc1836]

Thanks for all the information that you give and all the knowledge man I like how you’re so straightforward with all your information.

[@paulgimenez1846]

So nice to see someone take the time to setup the laser on the studs so all the vertical nails line up even though they will get covered and painted

[@Docdug]

Wow! That glue is very impressive!!! Thanks for posting Cheers Doc

[@communistusa7173]

I never see these trashcan comments. Ive been building for 29 years and i learn stuff watching you. And lets just be honest , you build with the products out there. I am not fond of mdf and i refuse to use foam but we build with what we have access to. And as lomg as you know where you can use what

[@Paul-IE-Repairs]

8:54 you can see the drag edge from the corner mud job where they didn't even take the time to sand it good enough to feather it out, those drywall guys were sloppy

[@MrSeanstole]

Great work as always. Your videos have helped me alot when I've had to do wainscoting in australia. Something that was never done here till recently with the rise in popularity of Hampton style homes. The one thing I hate though is the texture plaster you have in the states. I think it looks awful. The only time here you ever see textured plaster is on ceilings in buildings built in the 70s.

[@dan9036]

This just popped up as I'm literally getting MDF trim delivered tomorrow morning for my 3000 sq ft house remodel. My contractor said it would save almost $1k by going with MDF. He is using pine in the tiled areas. They are priming all surfaces before they install it as well. Hopefully I didn't make a bad decision.

[@ridenorthwest1687]

Dan you're fine. If both the finish carpenter and the painter know what they are doing you can have mdf trim that looks as good as anything else.

[@FinishCarpentryTV]

I have been using it for years with no problem. In fact the stuff I installed in my house is MDF. But Windsor 1 is superior and that is why I’m switching all my 1x material them.

[@bradley3549]

@@FinishCarpentryTV I hear this all the time, wood > MDF. And for things like sheet goods, plywood, etc. I can't disagree. But for trim, I'm having a hard time understanding how MDF is inferior for paint grade trim. It's so consistent and predicable compared to real wood.

[@southtexasframer4899]

Hey buddy I’m a small framing contractor in the DFW area and I was curious if you’d give the name of your lumber supplier. Have been using Henson’s for years because I live in Granbury but the last couple months they’ve been giving me complete shit. Long time fan. Cheers to getting to work inside. The last two weeks with the afternoons getting into the 100s has been killing me and my guys.

[@jamesogorman3287]

This load came from BMC. You can see their banner in the warehouse near the beginning of the video. I’d be interested in where he’s going to source the Windsor One.

[@truthdogschell8473]

Wow thank you so. Much for showing us the finished ship lap. It looks amazing! Outstanding work! Love it

[@MrPopmuzc]

Hey Richard, if you had to hand paint a board and batten wall, would you paint all the horizontals first, let it dry, and then paint the verticles? Or would you paint it all at once, knowing you couldn't maintain a wet edge. Which way do you think would hide the intersections best?

[@miketerrine1131]

I have a pretty big finishing job coming up. I need to go back and watch all of your videos. This is the first time I'm doing as the lead and not the helper.

[@middymcguinness1645]

Great job rich🙌🙌 doing 1 the marra myself. Learned so much from ur videos🙌🙌🇮🇪👌🏻

[@marcredman7549]

Conform to uneven framing and drywall?? Blah! Framers and drywallers always do perfectly level and smooth work dont they?? 🤪🤪🤪🤪

[@kyledamole6104]

depends on who’s framming it or drywalling 🤣🤣

[@russwollet8998]

That's what caulking is for 🤤

[@johngrossbohlin7582]

If that were true I wouldn’t have spent about a week recently flattening wall framing and flattening and leveling ceilings before rocking them... 😉

[@toddwilliams5905]

So your eye sees the board wiggle down the wall.

[@davebasch5995]

I've been doing finish carpentry and custom cabinets for more than 35 years and I tried finger joint pine once back in the day. It is garbage and paints out like garbage. Solid moulding is way better if you dont want to use mdf

[@FinishCarpentryTV]

I know I usually can’t stand FJ products but the Windsor 1 is just like solid. It’s amazing .

[@davebasch5995]

I@@FinishCarpentryTV cool...best of luck to you Bud...btw...I cringe each time you let your tape measure slap back into the case. Bad practice according to my early training, cuz it loosens the rivets and introduces error

[@davebasch5995]

@@FinishCarpentryTV Also...as a layout technique, when dividing up a wall for equal panels, it is more straight forward (and simpler), to measure from the left wall to the left side of the furthest right stile, then divide by number of panels. This gives you the location of the LEFT side of every stile and is much easier (and more accurate) than adding up all the stile widths, subtracting those, and dividing to get the panel widths ...hope that makes sense and hope it saves you some time!!! Cheers

[@tzaylor]

@@davebasch5995 cool

[@jimknowles5483]

In the field is that brown, tempered hardboard? Tempered masonite?

[@truthserum5202]

It's not always easy to find, but 5/8" x 5/8" cove works better with 3/4" boards by leaving a more defined reveal.

[@donbushek]

He’s using 1/8” paneling against the wall which would bring 5/8” cove out flush with the rails and stiles.

[@cottawalla]

The only problem with MDF is it can't get damp. Whereever gypsum plaster used to be the material I don't see any problem with MDF. I wouldn't use it for skirting, or architrave around external access openings or wet areas.

[@andrescatelan6474]

Looks really good just one question y didn't u removed the old baseboard

[@theofarmmanager267]

Excellent work - and excellent presentation. How I wish the two came together more often. I agree with all the negatives about MDF - but i think it does have two advantages - our painters prefer it over, say, plywood. They say that it gives a better finish with less coats. I’m no painter and so can only pass that on - doesn’t it save trees? I may be wrong but my assumption is that the trees and lumber that are used for MDF would no use otherwise? The clip that I saw on mdf making was all about using by-products which would otherwise be wasted. Therefore, doesn’t mdf prevent further tres being cut down? These are questions; not statements! Anyway, one more subscriber.