Nobsound TPA3116 Mini Amp Gain Fix (aka Breeze Audio)

[@Equinitry]

did the modification exactly like you did, also only had normal resistors and the improvement is exceptional, no hiss anymore! Thank you!

[@CovertHypnosis4U]

Nice.... U know, you could have just used ONE of those two resistors that you soldered together..... Just because a Data sheet sez 5.6K, DOES NOT MEAN you could not have used a 4.7k..... As an Audio circuit engineer, Broadcast Engineer and having designed audio Broadcast processors since the mid 1970's, the FUN-part of doing stuff like this is to experiment.... A 4.7K will give you close to 17db gain, which would lower the INPUT Noise-floor by another 3db..... TRY IT !!!!!!! BTW: I too use this amp on some DIY Active speakers, have the DATA Sheet in the bathroom right now, to review whilst sitting.... What you get for what you pay; THIS Amp is one of the best values around today (2017).....

[@logotrikes]

John Audiotech suggested ditching the 10x 25v caps and substitute higher voltage, because a 24 volts power supply is too close to the rated capacity of the caps. He blew a cap because it was underrated. He suggested 35v....

[@01ai01]

Awesome tip on changing the input gain, thanks!

[@Acoustic_Theory]

This is actually one of the better-sounding TPA3116 amps. However, the Wima caps only bypass the input electrolytic caps; I replaced all of the electrolytics (except for the center one which does not carry audio signal) with Nichicon Muse. I run mine on 24V; I have a Ktec 24V 5A SMPS that came with a Dayton Audio DTA-100, and it is actually the best 24V/5A switching supply I have tested in terms of audible noise leakage (tested with a headphone amp); the high feedback used in these Class-D chips gives them excellent PSU noise reduction but it's always better to feed them a clean high-current supply.

[@SuperShrek7]

I have a dual tpa3116 version, is it possible to guide me to implement the gain mod fix?

[@valdarmort]

the Chinese love to use hot glue or as some would call it hot snot. and i like how you replicated the Chinese bends on the led. have to keep it looking original you know .lol

[@MrBrymstond]

That chip runs hot! The caps next to the heatsink are going to die if you turn it up past 3 for any amount of time...

[@HifiCentret]

One thing I don't understand. Why those big inductors? I know the way class D amplifiers work they're required. But such big ones do they have an impact on treble? Too large inductors will inevitably have an impact - the question is - are the ones chosen too large? Most other class D amps use small surface mounted ones. I ordered one too. Excited to see that I get. Should it go wrong there's always a nice circuit board, on/off which and volume control to mount other cheap amplifier boards on.

[@MrBrymstond]

The ten caps listed should be rated at 35v being they're fake Sanyo's to Rubycon 35v 470uf for the added punch

[@Kodec-m9u]

I bought a tpa3116 2.1 amplifier... It sounds damn good but I found after 20 25 minutes of playback the inductors could be used to cook my meal ... It becomes hot like anything !! Is there any way to keep the board cool !! Will replacement of the inductors could be a solution ??

[@edwardc5669]

I watched your two videos regarding Breeze Audio Amplifier. Thank you for your expertise explanation. Recently, I purchased Breeze audio with two TPA1336D2 "better quality?". I found out most of the stuffs look similar with the one chip. Today, I found out left side speaker louder than the right. My question to you is. How do I fix this sound problem. Any potentiometer or resister need to be adjusted or replaced. Thank you in advance for your assistance.

[@DougMen1]

You didn't really have to remove the 100k resistor. You could have just put the 5.6k in parallel with it, soldered to the pads like you did with the wires you used, which would have given you 5.3k with 100k and 5.6k in parallel

[@bigx5murf]

Would it be possible to perform this fix on the new dual chip version of this amp? From the factory the volume knob is basically useless.

[@jsdspif3]

I've also been trying to find info for a mod on the dual chip version. I did run across a forum entry on a topic that had a 1000 pages or something that mentioned it but it was a small quote from another post and I couldn't find the original. I agree the gain on that dual chip is just too much. with a 12 volt battery about 1/3 volume is approaching (if not already) overkill. I'm using polk t-15 speakers . With my 24 volt 4 amp power supply somewhere around 1/4 volume is pretty much the maximum and it is way too much. I did just run across something about swapping out the op amp chip in the dual chip amplifier but haven't researched that enough to figure out what the story is with that. Mainly wanted to let you know you're not the only one looking to mod the dual chip amp to reduce gain.

[@drwatson32bit]

@@jsdspif3 did either of you figure this out?

[@bernoinferno4389]

Not quite sure about you putting hot glue on the inductors - They get quite hot don't they? The glue is going to melt off and flatten onto the board (I would guess).

[@brk932]

Тhink about it inductors "conduct" dI\dt i.e. change in current. They don't have much of resistance. They wouldn't get that hot since they are not ''conducting" the entire time like a DC device

[@MarshallSmith27]

so in text what all did you exactly do other than remotely move that one resistor? what was under the wire that was the remote resistor? I'm thinking of getting this amp for a project. the 2.1 channel one

[@bigx5murf]

Did you notice that the resistors you removed were actually 110k and 47k and not 100k and 39k like it's supposed to be according to the datasheet?

[@minkorrh]

Looks like they used decent caps.

[@FabioKasper]

Good video. Thx! I'm considering getting this small gear. Can I run it with only 1 channel loaded in the output? I have a 25W@8ohm passive guitar speaker to connect to. I want to get the guitar signal from my computer and route to the speaker, without turning on my tube amplifier for that. :P

[@FabioKasper]

Interesting. The bridge mode would be my next question actually. I'll keep looking as my demand is not something to be left still in the desktop. Maybe I'll have better luck looking straight for a car amplifier that bridge mode works out of the box. Appreciate your inputs though.

[@AaronWilsonAnarchy]

I may do this to my unit that I recently purchased, but I honestly haven't noticed the hiss. Perhaps it's because I was excited to get it, or my speakers aren't nice enough. I want to purchase the Mono version (www.amazon.com/Nobsound-Subwoofer-Frequency-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B072KDNW3F) to use to make a small guitar amplifier (just for the power amp).

[@JUANKERR2000]

RDO? What's RDO.

[@franchisefred4066]

I will pay u to do that MOD on my new nobsound

[@ЮрийЗахаревский-ц9д]

Дросселя греются, а их термоклеем

[@Ramdileo_sys]

I do not understand this ... there in USA... you can go to a Goodwill ... and buy a used Pionner or Technics Amplifier... or tuner-amplifier ... for more or less the same money ......... what's the point of buying this cheap chineria ???

[@jasonfrank9806]

the size and power consumption. i have vintage receivers and frequently check goodwill for things like you mentioned, but this type of amp absolutely has a place in my life, even among other more "audiophile" leaning components. i have the dual chip version, which should put out around 25-30 watts RMS per channel into an 8ohm load with a 24v power adapter. that is enough real power to drive the vast majority of speakers to good decibel levels without clipping. these amps are great for a portable audio system, or for just being portable on their own, you can bring real power with you anywhere you go. i find it ideal for a desktop computer audio setup. i use it to drive a pair of modded minimus 7 speakers (mcm woofers, custom crossovers) and it beats the pants off most "computer-specific" speaker systems that cost 100s of dollars. this also has obvious uses in car audio systems, especially if this performance can be achieved with ~14v of power over time as the technology advances. we could have headunits capable of delivering real power without the need for external amps. these will only get better and more powerful over time.

[@АлександрСметанников-с8л]

ума палата

[@brk932]

I think they made a mistake ... it should read Noobsound. Don't use switching power supply in audio gear. it's idiotic.

[@chrisyboy219]

Uh... You know this is a switching amplifier, right?

[@jeffm2787]

Hackish.

[@xrated_]

about the input impedance chapter 7.3.2, its a high pass filter so a too low cap will just roll off bass a bit too early. Bigger cap wont increase frequency response.