Noctua Fan in the Bambu X-1? Chamber & Mainboard Fan Replacement!

[@MandicReally]

Want to try it for yourself? Here is the parts list, but again, this is at your own risk! I can't be responsible for user error or changes to the wiring from Bambu. Parts Used (Affiliate Links): *** Noctua 92mm PWM Fan: amzn.to/3i6I9cN *** Noctua 40mm Fan: amzn.to/3WXpKhr *** Buck Converters: amzn.to/3G3hg1o *** Printable Buck Converter Mount: social.thangs.com/m/55313 *** Polymaker Filament: tinyurl.com/Polymakerr

[@_Xantras_]

Actually, if there’s one thing to learn from your video, isn’t it that we’re better off without the chamber fan at all ? Some cool mods on printable seems to filter the air better. Take a look at « bento box »

[@MandicReally]

@@_Xantras_ that is in fact the take away I got actually... And I do intend to do something along those lines (what I hinted at toward the end of the video).

[@_Xantras_]

@@MandicReally Watching content creators do take the risks before I do really is a guilty pleasure XD

[@KingShinobi82]

@@MandicReally what if you remove the filter box competely? Its inactive when printing ABS and not need when printing PLA. Should give a performance boost...

[@bobabbott8370]

I always thought the Noctura fans moved less air than the factory fans.....am I mistaken?

[@WalkLikeAnAlien]

1. Bambu Lab Chamber Fan 24V * Rated Speed : 4800 rpm/min * Max Air Flow : 92.56 CFM 2. Noctua NF-A9 PWM 12V * Rated Speed : 2000 rpm/min * Max Air Flow : 46.40 CFM

[@TheAlshaddai]

Aaaaaand bambulabs is even cheaper.

[@Muu_69]

Doesn't really seem to matter. Double the CFM and only 1°C difference (or in some tests even less) with such a small chamber seems strange. I bet the real CFM (and not only the one on paper) are much closer together. *But it actually makes sense as the CFM shows the airflow and with a filter in front, high airflow fans are the wrong choice. You need high static pressure. So as I said both fans obviously perform very similar is this usecase and the Noctua is just much quieter.

[@LachskoenigIV]

I'd be worried if the stock one doesn't provide higher static pressure. Noctua fans are not useful in front of a filter. The static pressure is too low, they are not designed for that.

[@Muu_69]

@@LachskoenigIV Wenn man beim originalen Lüfter die Hand vorhält kommt nur ein echt schwacher Luftstrom hinten raus. Das hat mich bei der Lautstärke und der Drehzahl gewundert. Bei dem Noctua ist er nahezu gleich was mich auch gewundert hat. Aber das zeigt, dass der Noctua besser für Static pressure geeignet ist als der original verbaute. Kannst ja auch mal beides testen so wie ich. ABER man man sollte den NF-A9 PWM nehmen und nicht den, den er genommen hat. Und es gibt sogar einen Converter von Noctua von 24v auf 12v (NA-VC1).

[@LachskoenigIV]

@@Muu_69 Folie nicht abgezogen? :D schwach ist der Luftstrom bei mir jedenfalls nicht, ganz im Gegenteil hätte ich nicht so viel von dem kleinen Lüfter+Filter erwartet.

[@drewbacca1981]

Sure would be nice if noctua would put out some 24v fans

[@MandicReally]

At this point they really should. They are popular on printers, one would think it would make sense. Especially in their Industrial PPC line.

[@MandicReally]

@@guesswork 120 and 140mm only unfortunately.

[@tmartin9482]

​@@MandicReally I think you underestimate the margins in which Noctua thinks in case of product development catastrophically.

[@crommet92]

Moin, I'm running 12v noctuas on many printers with unfiltered 24v. The fans handle double voltage for years now. In case they will be louder on 24v but they are still more quiet. I found anpther brand that is actually more quiet than noctua. The brand is called aab. Im really impressed with these fans .

[@TC-dk6do]

@@crommet92 do they make them in 24v

[@odj310388]

Funny you found the machine switches from 100% speed to 40% speed once it recognised the slower fan, I've taken to switching my stock fan speed down from 100% to 40-50% once the printing starts to quieten it down. I've found the same as you with the Noctua that it keeps the chamber cool enough at only 40% -50% speed and the noise difference is considerable. This is using PLA at 220-240 temp and bed at 55 btw. So if people don't want to go through the hassle of changing it out I'd recommend this quick fix instead of just lowering the speed once it starts.

[@ryanlandry8214]

I received my X1CC back in August. It wasn't very loud at first until some later firmware updates so I'm sure it ran a round 50% at first and I did 3.5 hr PLA prints on the cool plate with everything closed no problem.

[@francisbeland8959]

I just saw your post and while I'm printing I did the test to lower the chamber fan to 50%. It's effectively much less quiet. What I noticed is that when the chamber fan was at 100%, both the part fan and aux fan were a 0%. When I lowered to 50%, the part fan was started at 100% and the aux fan was started at 20%. I don't understand as I always thought that PLA was using a 100% part fan. Anyway, these fans are much quieter than the chamber fan so the overall noise level was greatly reduced. Thank you

[@andyvannort2743]

But if the stock fan at 100% cooled roughly the same wouldn't the stock fan at 40% cool considerably less? The noctua is a better design allowing it to have better cooling at slower speeds

[@odj310388]

@@andyvannort2743 bambu stock fan has cfm of 92 at 100% speed, this is down to 37cfm at 40%, 46cfm at 50% and 55cfm at 60% speed. The noctua at 100% speed has a cfm of 46cfm. So yea it is more efficient as the system recognises it running at 40% rpm of what the stock bambu one would be but running the stock bambu at 40%, 50% or even 60% considerably reduced the noise (which is the goal) and keeps the air flowing out. 👍🏻 I’ll be honest I’ve switched from 40% speed up to 60% just to be on the safe side.

[@pooounderscoreman]

This video rules! Keep it up! I hope Bambu offers firmware updates to fix up some of this logic. It actually is possibly for the machine to determine max fan speeds and stuff thanks to that tach pin. Would be cool to see the machine adjust the max after a warning message.

[@changjunzhang]

Shall we compare noise of the stock fan at 40% with Noctua Fan at its max?

[@halsaresnowpaw522]

Thanks for the video. It gave me some things to think about. I am printing ABS and the smell was getting pretty strong in the room. With the talk about your new fan effecting cooling, I decided to try an experiment to try and force some of the fumes through the filter. When printing with ABS, the exhaust fan is turned off. My chamber was showing a temperature of 51. I turned the fan on to 20% and an hour later, the temperature was still 51 and the smell had decreased. So I tried the fan at 40% and the temperature dropped to 48 with the smell about the same. Set it back to 20% now. Will have to modify the GCode for the filament to run the fan at 20% for ABS from now on.

[@xOperator]

did you have the carbon filter installed?

[@retoflury3834]

I was also wondering that on my p1s when printing ABS the Cham fan doesent work. but for what is the carbon filter when he doesent spin :-( so i put he also to 10-20% for exhaust now

[@BeefIngot]

Id love to see the vent fan tested directly, like with a flow meter. That and the filtering. I feel like so many printers have these, but no one really tests them and for mods people rarely ever empirically test the mods as well.

[@MandicReally]

Problem for me is trusting cheap fan testers. Testing fans by just holding up a meter isn't a very good setup. So it is a matter of "Do I spend money just to produce flawed data?". Sometimes I can justify that because some "flawed data" at least points us in a direction, but I don't know about fan testing like that.

[@nicolasdarkdark]

Sure it’s quieter, but if it doesn’t blow as much does it really matter? You can run the OG chamber fan at 50-70% to severely reduce the noise it makes

[@MandicReally]

I tested that toward the end of the video and found a negligible difference. Feel free to test your own fan and compare results.

[@devilsinkpot]

@MandicReally I had the RPM issue on a QNAP when replacing YSTECH fans with Noctua. The issue comes from the peak-to-peak voltage in the RPM signal. You can fix it by putting a resistor across PWM and Tacho/RPM. In my case it was 6.8kohms. Easiest way to find out is to put a variable resistor in.

[@almostalphas]

Can you elaborate on this? You're referring to the issue with his fan showing 40% on the display when it's actually running at 100%? And that can be resolved by putting a resistor across PWM and Tacho/RPM? I'm not super experienced with this type of electrical, so just follow instructions to a T and try to pick up bits and pieces of knowledge as I go.

[@Raytenecks]

I really appreciate that you share your knowledge, and also share what you *don't* know. It feels a lot more real than many creators I watch.

[@lostsauce0]

As someone very sensitive to noise, you're a hero

[@playmaka2007]

I have just been turning my chamber fan down to around 50% because it is truly obnoxiously loud. The entire machine feels an order of magnitude quieter when you reduce the chamber fan. Kinda blown away Bambulab would go with such a loud fan for the job.

[@MandicReally]

Yea, I've gotten used to the noise level of it printing, but that fan noise I simply could not get over.

[@playmaka2007]

@@MandicReally Yep, I'm so happy they introduced the ability to control fan speed.

[@3DMusketeers]

WOW That is insane. Great little upgrade for sure! I do not think you hurt it either, but man that sound difference is INSANE. I just do not think I would use this fan often personally

[@MandicReally]

I primarily print those materials that don't use the fan myself, so it was fairly silly of me to do. But I'm ready for the random times I do PLA multi-color prints.

[@sparrowdynamics]

Awesome mod video! I had to swap the fan on my Ultimaker years ago because it was so loud. I'm considering an X-1 Carbon and it is good to see the community coming up with "improvements" already.

[@mathenzobillault2486]

the noctua fan is pushing only half of the air that the stock fan move. i just checked, i was conviced by noctua fan but i think it's a bad idea

[@sparrowdynamics]

@@mathenzobillault2486 Good to know. Thanks! After using the X1 for a while now, I'm actually ok with the noise level. It is in my office now, but soon it will be moved to the R&D room so noise will be a non-issue.

[@rhencullen]

The 92mm Bambu chamber fan is a 4800 rpm fan shifting 92.5 cfm with a lifespan of ‘over’ 20k hours at 40 degrees C. The Noctua NF-A9 PWM is a 2000 rpm fan shifting 78.9 m3/h which equates to 46.4 cfm so it’s half the Bambu speed and half the cooling, but is rated for over 150k hours of use. Half the cooling probably explains to 2 to 3 degree chamber difference compared to some of the Bambu original fan quotes of 6 to 7 degrees, while the speed differences of 2000/4800 equates to the Noctua running at 41.66% of the Bambu original fan speed. All the same, I’m seriously considering this same upgrade myself. The Chamber fan bearings are starting to sound rough after 4 months of (continual) use. The 40mm MC fan failed 2 months ago, and though Bambu sent a replacement I elected to use a Noctua NF-A4x10 to replace the stock Bambu MC fan blowing through the heat sink vanes, with a second NF-A4x20 mounted at the side of the poop chute and blowing directly onto the flat of the heat sink and on the MC board itself. I’ve also got a printed baffle mounted to the rear of the case using N42 magnets, which drastically reduces the fan sound when printing.

[@MandicReally]

My replacement 40mm already sounds terrible and will be getting the Noctua treatment soon as well.

[@rhencullen]

@@MandicReally was that a Bambu replacement ? I’ve seen a few specialist articles now all saying that the MC fan is badly positioned to cool the MC heat sink, because the fan design creates a cone of moving air expanding out from the fan, and so doesn’t provide as much cooling directly in front of the fan as it does if it’s offset a little. I ended up replacing the stock MC fan with the Noctua 40x10 5v pwm then I also added a second 40x20 5v pwm fan next to the purge chute blowing onto the face of the MC heat sink.

[@schneems]

Links to the baffle STL or maybe a photo or description of how it works?

[@FreddyFresh303]

The Bambu Lab shop-website says that the chamber fan has a speed of 4800 RPM/min

[@MandicReally]

Totally missed that on there. Solid catch. us.store.bambulab.com/products/chamber-temperature-regulator-fan

[@YeeKongChan]

I own a X1C too and I like it... except the noise. I just wonder why Bambu lab didn't use quiet fans in the first place. I think buyers of this machine don't mind paying a few buds more to get a quieter mahcine.

[@Carpediem1312]

Did you an update on the fans successfully.

[@8bits955]

Noctua fans are one of the best inturns of how quite it is and the airflow you get, but just like many have experience on moding their hotend cooling fans to noctua fans and experience clogs it is because yes they are good but their airflow are not great. So people who want to try out noctua fans need to be careful of temperatures see if the noctua are sufficent enough espcially on eletronics cooling fans if you replacing them on any machine.

[@utkua]

is noise test at the same rpm ?

[@MrDehicka]

What is the point of changing it to a super quiet low CFM fan, when you can regulate the RPM of the original fan? I am highly sceptical it would be noticeably louder than Noctua at the same CFM.

[@astupidmoose4real]

Thanks for this video. My Mainboard fan just went tonight, and this helps so much visualize what I'll be doing once I get the replacement.

[@theyehsohz]

I happened to do this yesterday just for the control board fan since the knocking finally got so loud that my wife couldn’t stand it anymore. I opened it up and saw that the fan just wasn’t spinning and knocking super loud. I went through the same deductive procedures, I decided to just cap off the white and light gray wires. The sticker on the fan hub was oozing from the melted adhesion and just lifted off. It seemed fine to just have the noctua a4x10 just run 24/7 to cool the heat sink. It should just circulate the air inside the chamber (?) I’ll have to observe and see. I looked into replacing that 24v 92mm fan but couldn’t make heads or tails on how to approach it so I just left it stock for now.

[@AndrewMage]

So satisfying to watch this video & full praise for deft hands.... although I've got no idea what it's all about.

[@97JoMiller]

I purchased all the parts for this because my chamber temps were sitting at 39 with the chamber fan turned down to 70% so I didn't hear the fan roaring during the prints. I was hoping I could run the Noctura full tilt and I'd get better cooling but after doing a bit more research, I have a feeling even running full tilt, it's not as much air flow as the Bambu fan has running at even 60% so this probably isn't a good mod for me considering I'm wanting a quieter experience while cooling more. I have installed some fairly large risers to keep the glass off the top and some small fans to help with air flow and now I'm sitting at 36 while printing PLA... Do you think this is cool enough to combat the whole extruder clogging issue that I've been having? Running hot end at 220 and the bed at 60 for first layer then 55.

[@Platoface]

I get my X1 this week. You already making me want to mod it. Although this will be my first printer I shall hold off for a while to gel up some confidence.

[@ltrmars]

Bonjour, vous êtes satisfait de votre imprimante, j'ai envie de la prendre également.

[@_Xantras_]

Greta job ! But besides the fans, one significant source of noise is the motors. To you think you can dampen them ?

[@MandicReally]

I think it is more the mechanical system in general that is the primary noise source and don't really see much to be done about that. Fast printers are just going to generate noise. My Vorons, FLSun, and Re-AniMaker all have their own loud points. The Chamber Fan noise was the most unbearable sound personally. I work near the machine and have gotten used to the sound of it printing, but the sound of that Chamber Fan was always annoying.

[@_Xantras_]

I see. Do you think lubrication of the bearings has a role in noise ?

[@MandicReally]

@@_Xantras_ The X-axis uses self lubricating bushings. It is possibel the Y axis ones are making some of the noise but I don't think that is the primary source.

[@nerdinside8242]

I just did this upgrade today with a Noctua NF-A9 PWM + the main board fan with a 4010 5V Noctua NF-A4x10 PWM. It’s super quiet now. Thank you for this video! I set the fan on the left side of the bed to 20% in the slicer software. It’s so wild how quiet it is now.

[@gerbenw8601]

Hi, could you let me know how to install the main board fan. The connectors are not the same and I think also the pinout...

[@thegenerald850]

What wires did u splice to the old mb connector ?

[@zincyellowmach1523]

I’d be curious to see what just running the buck converter on the stock fan and lowering the rpm (what you effectively did)

[@MandicReally]

You can just lower the of the stock fan with PWM control. There is more to fan noise than speed though.

[@AsasiyyunETH]

Hi bro, can i connect 2 noctua fans to this chamber instead of one? I will still use the stepdown but will connect 2 noctua fans on it. Is it possible or the board cant output the necessary voltage?

[@HackMonkey]

Trying to compare the main board in your video with the one I have in the P1P, they look pretty much the same layout, with the exception of an empty header on your board that doesn't have a header soldered on for the P1P. That to say, there is no board cooling fan on the P1P. So assuming the drivers are the same, and the firmware isn't cooking the X1 more than the P1P, probably don't even need that fan. Which as you mentioned, doesn't appear to be doing much anyway.

[@dazzauk8334]

I was about to do this mod ,but no longer have to now i have moved to a man shed outside. Really did limit me to short prints with the current fan noise in an old Victorian house , I'm considerate of my neighbours 😊

[@swdw973]

My P1S chamber fan s much quieter than yours, bit the mainboard fan on mine is louder. Looks like I' be making a change as soon as the warranty runs out.

[@Raven-Creations]

Noctua fans are awesome. I wish PCs and printers came with them as standard.

[@shiikon2193]

I almost never print ASA or ABS. Can I just un plug the fan?

[@m22j-z3e]

What if I make another enclosure with 100% soundproofing material and cover the whole unit. Would it cause any issues with thermal?

[@MandicReally]

I would be concerned about the thermals of the electronics. Most of them have some type of shielding from the chamber air (though not a lot in some cases). Even with other machines it is usually recommended that your electronics not be enclosed in a chamber with the heat sources. It is part of why I've not encouraged doing that when folks have suggested it.

[@KingShinobi82]

@@MandicReally If there would be a hack to add a second cooling fan to the MB, an enclosure would maybe be an option. Alternatively replace it with a radial fan which is gonna blow much harder. Do those ideas have any potential?

[@MandicReally]

@@KingShinobi82 could duct air in from outside the chamber to a fan on the back panel blowing right on the board. But I mean more than just the board I showed. The X-1 uses a split up electronics system. That "Mainboard" isn't actually the main control board of the machine. There is one inside of the chamber. (I'm fairly sure that is where the Firmware is actually stored and run off of, along with wifi.) The Toolhead PCB, the motors, the touch screen, they'd all have to be considered.

[@KingShinobi82]

@@MandicReally hm, thats less than ideal... I was planning a really nice soundproof enclosure with active airflow, but now i'm pretty unsure about the whole idea...

[@MandicReally]

@@KingShinobi82 your choice, I wouldn't do it but I don't have the data to say it really is a problem. Actively cooling the chamber would certainly help.

[@andysavage2361]

How’s the life of the Noctura fan at 13.5v?

[@WarrenGuan]

Will 13.5v break the Noctua fan or shorten its life?

[@ScientificGlassblowing]

Thanks so much for this video. I just replaced my X-1 CPU fan. It was not discolored but it did make a lot of noise.

[@jckf]

A crucial bit of information that is missing here is RPM normalized noise measurements. The Noctua fan is spinning at less than half the speed, and has a max CFM rating of about half as well, so setting the stock fan to 40-50% would be a fairer comparison. I bet you'd get much closer results.

[@TinSVM]

So if the Noctua is running at 2000rpm/min then it's quieter mostly because it's running slower.... I wonder how loud it's the sound of the stock bambu chamber fan at 40% speed.

[@IanB1015]

I wonder if you contact Noctua if they can custom make a 120mm 4000-4500rpm fan you can test as a replacement.

[@christiantrab6160]

Interesting mod, even that I don´t own one of these printers yet, I think I will soon 🙂 I don´t find the fan confusing, but maybe it is because I am a mechanic, and see things differently, and maybe I am wrong, but to me it looks simple. Pla needs lower temp, therefore top off, and a fan to push fresh air in, you can not push air into a closed chamber, you need to let the air out to get circulation. And the filter - ask any mechanic or painter, they will tell you it is because when you stir up dust, it will set in the wet paint or in this case, the wet plastic, the filter is there so you don´t get impurities in the finished product.

[@MandicReally]

The filter on the "Chamber Temperature Regulation Fan" is a Charcoal filter ONLY. It has no other filter media in it. So it doesn't act as a particulate filter the way you have in a paint booth. I'm a former Auto-Tech & Custom Car Builder, our paint booths were sealed shut. Heck last shop I worked at the painter would tape the doors before he sprayed to reduce gaps & hose down the area outside of the door to prevent dust from kicking up. The only entry paths for the air traveled through filtration to get into the booth. The Chamber fan on a Bambu Printer draws air in from gaps around the frame & door. As such it wouldn't do as you say, it would actually draw IN particulates from the surrounding environment. The fan draws in cool outside air and expels the hot air out the back of the machine. It does that job just fine to reduce chamber temp. But its use of a Charcoal filter is just... flawed design. Materials that NEED charcoal air filtration, need higher chamber temps. It should recirculate back inside of the chamber to maintain the heat. To make it really functional it needs a flap to direct air like a cars HVAC system. Recirculate for higher temp materials, and expelling it out for lower temps.

[@lil-lofi-adventures]

super helpful video! brought my p1p’s overall noise level down 13db

[@WyvernDotRed]

Someone I've been chatting with made a similar Noctua fan upgrade for the cold end fan. But the fan was PWM controlled for some reason (Makerbot Replicator 2 clone, keeping the board for now). And the combination of the buck converter and PWM made the entire thing reset or glitch out. (we solved it by powering it with the always on control board fan header, the switched output will be used for part cooling later) So if the chassis fan has PWM too, this might be a very problematic upgrade.

[@SnappyFlossers]

Shouldn't there be more room behind that mainboard fan to draw cooler air in to it.... .or is it not flush against the panel?

[@MandicReally]

It’s not flush against the panel but it doesn’t have anywhere to draw fresh air from either.

[@ANg-yz1zl]

Cheap DIY it just slide the OG fan ground/power and use the buck converter to stepdown to 12-23volts for optimal noise/cooling to your taste. OR just ask Bamboo lab to update the firmware that allows you to control the fan. Easy Pease!!!

[@MandicReally]

They actually did just update the firmware to allow adjustment. Or you can edit the G-code to do the same thing. I just went this far because... content and why not?

[@xIsouLcruSHca]

How do I dial in the buck converter without a 24v power supply?

[@MandicReally]

Power it off the circuit you will be using it, just don’t wire up the fan until you dial in the voltage output.

[@Shraedar]

The video makes it clear that it doesn't seem to matter all that much in this configuration, as a 1C delta is barely going to make a difference. Even if it did, you could just over-volt the noctua fan. I've been running mine at the raw 24v from the fan header and it's been perfect. It likely makes up, at least a little bit, for the low CFM at 12v.

[@Printed_Visionz3D]

Noctua is a high pressure fan?

[@bradallen6333]

The noise from my mainboard fan is absolutely ridiculous, even when the printer is idle. Thanks to this video I have a better idea of what I'm up against when I replace that fan - oh and probably the camber fan while i'm at it. Btw, I still love having this X1C (2 months old)

[@wrxsubaru02]

are you sure the 5v motherboard fan was even a ball bearing motor? Seems like it was a "hydraulic bearing" aka bushing if it was making that kind of noise.

[@exodous02]

I live in an apartment complex and can't have a loud printer. I've been waiting for someone to make a drop in replacement, I thought it would happen since this printer is so popular. I notice the firmware that quiets the printer still has the fan really loud. I wonder why they just don't use Noctua from the get go, that would only add so much per printer when they buy fans in bulk.

[@emanuelcalderon]

What voltage should the fan be?

[@sourc3C]

FYI - the original chamber temp regulator fan speed is rated at 4800RPM with air flow of 92.56 CFM

[@schneems]

The fan he installed is 46 CFM (78.9 m3/h) which seems much lower. I don’t know if another number might be important too like static pressure. Where did you get your numbers from?

[@davidbutcher6637]

Is there a correct fan (4000rpm ) to make the screen work correctly ?

[@cloudcultdev]

What do you think about using a Noctua NF-A9x14 HS-PWM fan? That has an RPM of 2500, and it's supposed to be an excellent fan as well for sound etc.

[@binthem7997]

What's the voltage of the PWM and Tach signal? I'm thinking if it could be corrected with a MCU in between or a amplifier or similar. To get 100% when it's 100%.

[@lostsauce0]

You provided a link to the 3 pin version of the 40mm fan, but the stock fan uses 4 pins.

[@bulgogiprince8625]

I'm planning on hooking up some ducting to get the particulates/smells outside better. I wonder if a gentle typhoon type fan would be a better option. What do you suggest?

[@-FOXX]

In case you're still curious. 1 degree drop with the filter, and 4 with the charcoal removed.

[@Lab4450com]

if you are crazy like me. direct swap NMB 92mm reference 09225VE-24L-CU-02 fan with 60cfm. 40db only. and good static pressure. its about 1/3 less of their claimed stock fan that supposely has 90cfm.

[@MandicReally]

Yea I searched for a fan on Digi-Key for a while but they started at $30 and I figured that would be a non-starter for most folks so I moved on.

[@Lab4450com]

@@MandicReally next video. bento box. to clean those nasty vocs from abs. piggy connected to that chamber fan. active it along with the chamber fan for like 10 minutes when it finishes printing abs or asa

[@Lab4450com]

@@MandicReally also the NMB is dialed up at 80 or 90% at the display when its in fact at 100%

[@Nairod785]

Thank you for looking it up and sharing it here, I was unsucessful at finding the right fan for the job. It's the not thrst time I struggle finding the right fan with the right pinout, may I ask you what's your goto website and search filters to find the good one? Just looking up Mouser and Farnell and playing with filters?

[@Lab4450com]

@@Nairod785 basically yes. and some european websites too. the motherboard noctua 5v pwn 4 wires and this fan allows me to leave the printer idle in my workshop without any buzzing. i print a lot of asa and abs. and to be honest the NMB is 30usd and its too much money for a chamber fan that will be 99% of time turned off. but... we got play!

[@EJTechandDIY]

Just tune in the start G-code with the original fan to 40% and it will be really quite

[@MandicReally]

Or disable it and remove the top glass / open the door. Or buy a P1P. Where is the fun in any of that? Ha

[@EJTechandDIY]

@@MandicReally hahaha, this is printer I dont want to mod, I have other ones for that, but great job on the mod.

[@Mobile_Dom]

oooooh Alan is going to be popular in the bambu discord/FB group :P but seriously, that 17dB drop is insane, almost a quarter the volume

[@MandicReally]

Especially when you consider how Decibels work, it is a pretty large drop. I hated printed PLA before because the fan noise bothered me more than the printer's mechanical noises, now I can deal with it!

[@Mobile_Dom]

@@MandicReally yeah 10db is a doubling in volume correct?

[@pooounderscoreman]

@@Mobile_Dom correct

[@3dPrintingMillennial]

@@pooounderscoreman incorrect. Every 3db is a doubling in sound intensity.

[@victor_glekler]

@@3dPrintingMillennial incorrect. Every 6db is a doubling in sound volume. You swapped volume and power.

[@TheNerdArmory]

0:50 it should be noted that one of the screws on the back has a VID WARRANTY sticker on it and it has to be broken to open the machine.

[@MandicReally]

Void if removed stickers aren’t legally binding in the USA. A company cannot void a warranty for simply disassembling your own property. That is a pretty settled legal standard. Also Bambu’s instructions tell you to do this. If they voided your warranty for doing what they told you to do, they wouldn’t last long as a company.

[@TheNerdArmory]

@@MandicReally I'm so thankful to hear this. I had wondered how this would hold up and always thought it was a flimsy idea. I'd definitely mention it if you open up the printer again :) ty

[@thediscoman2001]

great ide to use noctue fans i use them what a difference they make. i was just wondering how much additional cost has it cost u apart from the printer in time and money, becasue me personalley after looking at more that 10 diffrant videos on this printer i would have probabley gone for somrthing more stable as this isnt one of the best printers for reliability at the moment even though its got 4 lots of filament, iv just converted my chiron to do the same thing with 4 colour printing and its faultless i used the bigtreetech gtr v1.1 board and the addon board and its still more versatile that the bambu and prints better quality maybe you could do a multi build that does the same thing as the bambu cos i know itle be cheaper and more reliable, just a though for you to ponder one

[@indecisivesquirrel3dlabs78]

Did you make something to hold the aux fan up mine hasn’t fallen off yet key works there yet

[@MandicReally]

I did that and linked the STL in my first video. When did you get yours though? The newer versions have a fan that is screwed on and cannot fall off like mine would.

[@martinsmith2948]

Try taking out the carbon filter and see how much more airflow that lets through, it's probably blocking a lot of the airflow, and that's why they had to go with such a loud fan just to get it to work a little bit. And since like you stated, the filter does nothing on the material where it would be needed since the chamber fan doesn't run. Seems like a marketing gimmick lol

[@RussellJohnson-s8d]

Noctua sells 24v fans, why didn't you go with one of those?

[@MandicReally]

Noctua sells 24v fans ONLY in 40 (that's new)/ 120 / 140 mm sizes. This is a 92mm fan and NO LARGER of a fan will fit in the space. It would require mounting one externally and hacking together a back panel mod.

[@n0rice4u39]

I came back to say I think the chamber fan replacement is not necessary, since the x1 reads the fan going 40% with the noctua fan, the stock fan also at 40% is just as silent

[@palfijozsef2]

Sunon MagLev. Large selection, perfect fan.

[@tombo7719]

the aux fan does the same.. goes to 100 then down to 30% or whatever. That is with a Bambu part on a P1P upgraded.. FYI, think you are right about how it commands the RPM. Also chamber fan page at Bambu says the stock fan is 4800rpm. FYI.

[@chrisc9213]

Keep up the good work and sticking to fact unlike some of the other channels that are getting to emotional and dramatic.

[@Littleferris]

Great vid! I really was hoping that my chamber fan seemed more functional then just making my office sound like a jet engine. might be worth doing more tests with thermistors in different locations in the enclosure.

[@MandicReally]

Not a bad idea at all. I believe (but don't know for certain) that the probe is in the top left behind a plastic cover (when looking at the machine from in front). Maybe for the next video I have planned I'll throw a couple thermistors in and log temps around the chamber.

[@kevinschilling6813]

I really like your videos! Even with all the points you have made with the printer, I'm still getting one. Just waiting for it to arrive. Question.. Does the exhaust from the MC fan have to vent inside the control space, which might be used to help heat the enclosed printing area? I don't have mine on hand to see if there is any area that crosses over to do that.

[@jemdejager]

I ordered my P1S 10 minutes ago, allong with the 92mm noctua fan. I already have the buck converter, so I'm stoked to receive my first 3d printer and do the modification!

[@Carpediem1312]

Did you Update the fans? Please send feedback How quiet it is now. Thanks.

[@bradclooney69]

Hows it going on the p1s im receiving mine next week and about to order all the parts. Is it still working as expected? Did you have any print failures with this mod? How is the sound? Thanks!

[@Carpediem1312]

I decided for MK4 finally because of noise, Open source, maintenance, service. Once a successor of X1C is on the market I will consider to buy a bamboo again.

[@mumeral]

Could someone print a new back cover and use a 92 to 120 MM fan adapter with a noctua 24v 240mm fan?

[@TheAleksanderB]

Noctua is actually selling 24V fans from their industrialPPC line. You won't need a step down circuit for them as they operate between 6V and 30V.

[@MandicReally]

Only in 120/140mm sizes. No 92mm ones, so you’d have to design an adapter to mount it in this use case and modify the back panel of the machine. Or have a fan having off the back.

[@N4CR]

Why didn't you get a 24V Noctua? Lots of their fans are available in 24V for industrial use. We use them for water cooling industrial applications and I also use one as a travel fan lol.

[@MandicReally]

Only 120 and 140mm Noctuas come in 24v. Not any smaller sizes.

[@paulmilne3038]

It never occurred to you that the noctua fan might affect the cooling. Well that’s a surprise as I thought everyone with experience of noctua fans realised that one of the reasons it’s quieter as it’s known they have less airflow. I have been considering this and thanks this gives me some ideas/suggestions

[@Felixls]

Depending on ambient temperature you don't have to set stock fans more than 50% duty cycle. e.g If your room is at or less 20 degree celsius

[@clixium]

Why not use smaller buck converter, they come in various sizes, smallest I buy come in packs of 5 and are super tiny you can hide them anywhere

[@bujin5455]

Too bad Noctua doesn't offer their industrial line any smaller than 120mm. One of their industrial 3k RPM fans would be a reasonably good fit otherwise.

[@victor_glekler]

You could just add a buck converter to the original bambu fan to achieve the same effect.. Noctua fans are less noisy because they spinning slower, no magic. If I print pla or petg I just open the door or the lid and it gives better chamber cooling, than this rocket fan. You can turn them off completely in the slicer settings

[@bujin5455]

That's really not true. Speed is part of it (but nowhere nearly all of it), it's also partly the design of the blades, as well as the motor assembly. You can see this for yourself if you test other fans like for like against Noctua. You can easily see the fan runs smoother, and even when ran at the same RPM, the Noctua fans are quieter. (Noctua does offer 2k and 3k fans, and they are still considerably quieter than other fans at the same speed.) BTW: Noctua also works hard to optimize CFM for a given fan speed, so they often get more cooling done at the lower speed.

[@Mad_Catter_]

Yes because you obviously engineered the fans at Noctua and know it all. Never mind the patents they hold, the blade designs they fund research for, the motors that other fan manufacturers don't spec for due to costs, the dampening pads that most fans don't have and the material make-up being dissimilar in many areas.

[@caesardgreatest]

The secret sauce of Noctuas are *mostly* on the fan blade, so I wondered if anyone had tried swapping out the blade to the original fan so we don't have to mess with sizes and electronics? Or better, 3D printed a fan blade? I'm also still looking for a silent fan for the hotend :p

[@grampafpv8013]

you could be right but why are noctua's 12volt and not 24volt and why is this fan only 2000rpm and not 4800rpm i think thats is thereally reason they are quite fans they are slower which reduces air flow that's basic physics

[@Omniverse0]

@@grampafpv8013 The difference in RPM is due to the expected application. Noctua makes a pretty hefty fan (Noctua NF-F12 iPPC-24V-3000), but again, they aren't building them for Bambu Lab's application. If Bambu went to Noctua and asked them to manufacture a fan for their printer, it would be no problem. (Side note: 92mm fans are a bit niche)

[@corlissmedia2.0]

excellent work, great angles and shots.

[@RutgersSieve]

Not really satisfied with the solution here, but you definitely diagnosed some serious problems with the airflow design. I feel like we need Steve from @GamersNexus or James from @MajorHardware to do some testing and modification hijinx to get this in order. If this was a gaming rig, Steve would go nuclear on this case!

[@viru52000]

The exhaust fan is a confusing one. They recommend removing the top and opening the door when printing PLA. On a Voron, the exhaust fan is supposed to run a slow speeds to put a negative pressure on the inside so it can keep the fumes under control. After printing, it can be turned up higher to remove the fumes and cool down the machine faster. It's not really there for controlling temp while printing (unless you're running a Nevermore and overheating the chamber, but the Bambus don't do this).

[@MandicReally]

Yea, if Bambu setup the fan to run at even say 10% just to remove fumes on prints that need it I'd get it's purpose, but they don't. And with PLA / PETG prints, the Activated Charcoal Filter is just a restriction on the airflow of the chamber fan. It really doesn't need to be there for those materials so it makes even less sense to me. Seems like they should have considered something like a Nevermore in the chamber for scrubbing / evening chamber temp, and a non-filtered fan to exhaust heat for those filaments needing cooler temps.

[@js-nk4sd]

@@MandicReally I'd assume the activated charcoal filter provides quite a bit of air restriction. If you were to remove the restriction would you get significantly lower temps? I also wonder where the air would even be coming in from given it's mostly sealed. Seems like the fan doesn't really do much unless you have the door/top open.

[@MandicReally]

@@js-nk4sd actually the door is really poorly sealed, so the incoming air is pretty clear. I will test removing the filter, just couldn’t justify confining down the testing path for this video.

[@hassosigbjoernson5738]

@@MandicReally Doesn't that show a really big lack of clear instructions or a manual how the printer is supposed to function? And I dont mean "How to print a part in PLA." I mean what the cooling is for. I havent checked it, but I guess in a Prusa manual or the Voron documentation you will find those infos. It's like Bambu Lab is screening the forums and KZbin and only add data and documentation if needed, which seem to be the other way around.

[@thenextlayer]

Damn!!! I was gonna do a video about the confusing chamber fan and you beat me to it!!!

[@arci0tus]

please, do your video anyways

[@thamjunyan6992]

the default chamber fan has a rated air flow of 92CFM, and ones from Noctua is only about 42% of that maximum, it probably runs as quiet as the noctua if you set it to 1600RPM, so i wonder if it's easier to just change the default RPM for various filament types in the filament Gcode settings?

[@MandicReally]

There is more to fan noise than just RPM. Fan blade, design and construction, frame design, the motor itself. They all play factors in the sound level.

[@thamjunyan6992]

@@MandicReally That's true, although to my experience unless it's a very crappy fan, most half decent fans have roughly the same noise at the same RPM and most of the noise comes from the hub. i do not really recommend this mod for several reasons. 1) potentially breaking some electronics if you don't know what you're doing 2) warranty void 3) additional cost, achievable with a simple Gcode change 4) insufficient chamber temp regulating capacity if the needs risen, affecting prints of PLA and PETG 5) firmware error handling (pointed out in the end of video) just to note that by default the chamber fan is set to 70% if bed temp is over 35C and 100% if bed temp over 45C, for PLA and PETG only. PEI, high temp and cool plate has different heating for PLA and PETG, so try to use cool plate if you want lower chamber noise. I'm sure Bambulab has done temp characterization and there are reasons the parameters are set this way

[@mariospanayiotou6644]

Just get the converter that shows the voltage on it. Much easier and dont cost much more

[@N4CR]

THe cooked sticker may actually just be oil/lubricant from the bearings of the fan. Which would explain why it failed.. Larger sleeve bearings especially will rubber plugs under the sticker so you can lube them (Silverstone FN181 etc).

[@tmartin9482]

Nice to see that so many people are now tinkering with these printers, which are known to work flawlessly out of the box and are so terribly innovative. Keep it up! That's really good entertainment.

[@hassosigbjoernson5738]

How can they be "known for" if they are not yet one year available?! Also with every review I saw the reviewer said that the reliability is not known and has to be seen in the future. So that not really a new development "now".

[@tmartin9482]

@@hassosigbjoernson5738 Sorry, just copying the fan boys and girls that ride the hype. And yes, you're right. Some reviewers have provided an honest and sensible opinion in terms of what can be attributed to the printer and its ecosystem, and what has yet to be proven, especially in terms of reliability, support and repairability. MandicReally is certainly one of them based on what I've seen from him so far. But there are also enough who naively trumpet the manufacturer's advertising.

[@PrimalShutter]

Semi-unrelated, but just got an A1 this week and I'm flabbergasted by how little control the printer gives you, not even something as basic as speed outside the 3 presets, thinking in returning it 💀

[@241benjo]

how did you decide? you can control a lot with orca/bambu-slicer. of course you are not able to change -everything- but imho you don't have to. everything else you may want to change, such as fan-speed you can add a g-code so when printing PLA it will turn the chamber fan off or to a set value.

[@DS321o]

Noctua makes a 120mm 24v…I wonder how viable that would be if you ditch the foam and print some sort of fan duct between the 120mm fan and the 92mm mount.

[@MandicReally]

Not much room in there, you'd have to cut a hole in the back and design an adapter to go from one size to the other. Totally doable but for me, not worth it.

[@thomasdejonge8561]

i think that the filter is for if the ABS print ends you can filter the air that is inside

[@MandicReally]

The Filament G-Code for ABS in Bambu Studio doesn't enable the fan at any point (during or after a print). And they only just added the manual ability to toggle the fan on and off last week. That would in fact make sense, but Bambu doesn't use it that way.

[@BeefIngot]

@@MandicReally Which I think people have been asking for forever. It seems so simple its weird they havent added it. Makes me wonder if the filter even does much.

[@crommet92]

Dont worrie about the 40% I've got my overworked one yesterday and it shows tje same 40%. I gound that the numbers are locked till printing. Also my version have not taped fans as well. They put a little knob on the panels with one screw.

[@garethfuller2700]

It's a shame that the fan Bambu labs used is a ~90 mm design- Noctua makes 24 Volt industrial fans (purchasable on their website!) in 120 and 140mm, with the fans able to take 6-30 Volts!.

[@sircheeseburger123]

Great informational video as always, are you planning on replacing the hotend fan as well?

[@martinways2023]

I dont understand Bambu why they not put active chamber heater - it is so simple to do. I have to integrate the heater myself and control it separately of bambu firmware.

[@MandicReally]

Active Chamber heaters are patented by Stratasys. It is why you don't see many other commercially available machines with them. Also the parts of the X-1 are largely made up of injection molded plastic. I doubt many of them would handle the temps for long. Let alone the electronics that are inside of the chamber volume. Adding an active heater changes the whole ball game.

[@viru52000]

Passive heating using the heated bed and fans works well, though you're not going to be printing PEEK or anything like that. Then again, at those chamber temps you'll have issue with everything else... steppers, bearings, any electronics, any component that isn't metal. Most 3D printers are using a lot of plastic components.

[@viru52000]

@Seeyou Seemee ABS does just fine in a passively heated chamber like a Voron. In fact, it's exactly what the Voron is designed to do.