Norton Investigation Part 2

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@brucebear1 15 сағат бұрын

Another clear and thorough video - thanks! Since it was 54 years ago, I can hardly remember the first time I took a Commando clutch apart but I feel I should compliment you on your first approach to the job. There are some important (and easy to overlook items) -- 1) Once the adjuster stud, its locknut, and clutch pushrod are removed, it's important to be sure that the threads of the tool center bolt are firmly engaged with the clutch center threads. An owner doing this job does not want the tool to be hanging onto the clutch center with just a few threads; it might be necessary to adjust the position of the nuts on the center bolt. (Not a criticism, it appears you did this properly but -- for others to follow -- it should be mentioned.) 2) It's best to not over-tighten the tool. Your use of the small screwdriver into the circlip is perfect. Once there are a couple of turns onto the engagement nut, the circlip can pushed to get the feel to assure it's loose. As soon as the circlip moves easily in the groove, the circlip can be removed. If there's a need (such as for parts washing), the tension on the tool nut can be released and the spring removed from the tool; alternatively, if the parts are to be reassembled, the spring can be retained in the tool. 3) As you mentioned, the tab washer on the clutch hub fixing nut should be renewed with each re-assembly. It's not a *terribly big* issue if a new one isn't available and the existing part is not damaged but the best practice is to use a new one. This fixing is critical - see below. 4) When reassembling the nut, DO NOT follow the 850 factory manual note of tightening it to a torque of 70 pounds/ft. This manual was compiled by a young technical publishing and mechanical whiz but taking this figure from the Atlas manual was incorrect -- the Commando clutch is located by a circlip behind it and a torque of 70 lb/ft on the nut will crush the circlip resulting in the clutch center and basket being improperly located on the gearbox mainshaft. A torque figure of approx 35 lb/ft is much more appropriate but this makes it more important that the nut be retained firmly by the tab washer. (In addition, and especially important for a Commando with a belt primary drive, I think that it's good to fit one of the nuts with an inset seal. This ring seal sits against the clutch pushrod and prevents gearbox oil from migrating from the gearbox and down the drilling in the mainshaft into the clutch where it can be flung onto the belt. These modified nuts can be obtained from a company called "Atlantic Green" in Massachusetts, USA, the owner of the company is called "Dyno Dave" and he's a great resource for Commando parts and technical help. Atlanticgreen and a (daht) com at the end. 5) When reassembling the clutch spring plate, it's fairly obvious when the big circlip is correctly installed in its groove (just feed the end of the circlip into the groove with the little slot for the removal/ installation tool at the other end outwards toward the installer and once it's clicked into place, push it around back and forth a small distance to allow the circlip to fully expand into the slot) but it's a step in the procedure that must be assured. You did a great job for your first time through the procedure. This will be helpful for Commando owners who may need to do primary drive or clutch service.