Not run for over 10 years - 1974 BMW E12 520

I finally get the chance to see if my 1974 BMW 520 E12 runs. It hasn't been run for over 10 years so will it start? Before that, there's a few jobs that I have to do in preparation for the startup.
#bmw #bmw5series #bmwlovers #firststart #carrestoration
BMW 520 e12
BMW e12
BMW e12 South Africa
Help this channel with a donation on the following link:
www.buymeacoffee.com/Gentilsg...
I am also on Instagram, Threads, Facebook, Twitter and email where you can also contact me:
Instagram:
/ gentilsgarage
Threads:
www.threads.net/@gentil79
Facebook:
/ gentilsgarage
Twitter:
/ gentilsgarage
Email:
[e-mail]

[@Involvod]

She was revving up great! I'd be inclined to think there's some moisture in the engine and oil from sitting around. She's a peach mate, can't wait for the next episode!

[@GentilsGarage]

Thank you very much. I think you’re right about the oil. That’s something I’ll do next, an oil flush and change to see how it goes, but plenty of other bits to change as well.

[@fhwolthuis]

Great work, Gentil! I'm sure this BMW is the ideal project for you, if you need some "alone time" and de-stressing. I'm sure you will make it into a great runner 👍🏻😀🍀

[@GentilsGarage]

Thank you very much Frank. It certainly is. Once running properly and, more importantly, legal on the road, it’ll be a joy.

[@christophersw8994]

The high idle fuel consumption is probably because the engine is on the verge of flooding... there are sensitive membranes in the Stromberg carburetors that almost certainly have gone porous, if they haven't completely disintegrated. There's an ATF level upper side of the membrane inside the carburetor(s) to buffer the vacuum induced movements of the membrane(s) with changes in throttle (power). Fuel consumption while driving mixed light urban/country roads should be 14...18 Liters/100 Km. If it consumes substantially more the venturi needle (attached to the membrane base) inside the carburetors has probably "bored" open the factory pre-set orifice diameter and this causes the car to run rich. Overhaul using better materials for the actual jet. Great prudent idea to swap the fuel hoses. There is a release screw at the bottom of the fuel tank, just drain the old concoction, flush with current fuel then fill normally. But you'll probably replace the corroded fuel lines thereon forward as well. Fuel lines (metal) should be available both at BMW and aftermarket. The fuel pump membrane (bolted to the engine same side as the carburetors) is also probably beyond limits and warrants replacement. I suspect getting parts and respective wait times will be limiting. Probably would have been a good idea to change the oil and turn the engine / plugs out / first with the starter to ensure lubrication - increased "wear and tear" in the 20-35 minutes... straight SAE 30 (cheap) for renewed "break-in" then 10W 40 or similar. Oils are so much better now than when these cars were built! Can you ascertain whether the engine overheated (no coolant?) in that idle time? That is certainly a possibility. Would suggest replacing all coolant parts and have the radiator overhauled (it's an original) but have a cheap replacement available. I'll certainly follow you and your channel - have similar work cut out for me - our family car from my teenage years is a 1980 518 E12 (single double-barrel SOLEX carburetor), car is rated at 90 BHP (DIN) from 1766 cc's. Our specimen has around 225k Kms and I suspect an engine overhaul might be in the cards... loss of coolant! That was also 10 years ago now... Cheers, Chris

[@GentilsGarage]

Hi Chris, Thank you very much for your input. Indeed the carbs were not in great shape and I have rebuilt them since with new gaskets and needles. After that, it ran better, but I struggled to set them up properly, but these are known to be difficult to tube properly, but I’ll get a professional to do it eventually. I completely forgot about that fuel tank purge screw! The oil and filter were changed straight after this startup, and the coolant flushed. After the issues with the cooling, the whole system was replaced with new hoses, waterpump, radiator, etc. Gearbox fluid was also flushed. I have mentioned this in subsequent videos. However, even after all that, the head gasket went bang which wasn’t a surprise. When I first owned the car in 2002, I sourced the engjne from another E12 and I had no history from it. When the swap was done, it only had a normal service and nothing else, but probably never had a major service in 50 years. Good luck with your project and please keep us updated!

[@TheAstroman]

Marvelous! 🤩🚀

[@johnfitzpatrick9994]

Well done Gentil 👍

[@GentilsGarage]

Thank you!

[@mattsbeamer]

A great video!! I was so happy that she started for you. It is probably just the build up from moisture where she has sat for ages. It will be interesting to see how it is after the oil change. There is likely to be moisture in the oil :) Good luck!! :)

[@GentilsGarage]

Thank you. Yes, I’ll be doing an oil change soon

[@MillerCorner]

Great news! Chuffed for you, bud :D

[@GentilsGarage]

Thank you very much Joe

[@mariopalomar2807]

Gentil 😃🙂😃🙂🔥🔥 estou tão feliz como tu!! Claro que se sabia que iria dar algum trabalho e dores de cabeça, mas ...mas não desanimes!!! Tu consegues lá chegar. Um passo de cada vez🙂 Forte abraço 🤗🤗🤗

[@GentilsGarage]

Obrigado, grande abraço!

[@berwhaletheavenger]

Blimey, Stromberg CDET's! There is a good book about the E12/28/34 5 Series by Brooklands Books and it has all the technical info on setting them up. The mayo on the cap is just condensation from the engine oil and it will clear. The tappets sound like they need doing as well. The car looks very good - is it Inca orange?

[@GentilsGarage]

I recently bought one book by Autobooks published in 73 for the 520 and 518 and it has some useful instructions too, but I’ll look into that one from Brooklands. Yes, the oil could well be used to moisture absorption so an oil change is up next. I’ve tried adjusting the tappets in the past but I couldn’t grasp it. I might pay someone to do it. The colour… as I said in my first video, I don’t know exactly which one is. The South African catalogue has Inka, but this one has a slight different tone to it. It’s the factory colour as I looked into every bit of the car and never had a colour change. However, most BMW South Africa production records from the 70’s no longer exist, so unable to tell exactly what colour is this.

[@shahrokhabedi3476]

Stromberg is the best for normal m10 if it be fine tunned 👌👍

[@GentilsGarage]

I need to replace the rest of the ignition components, check the valve clearances and the chain guides. Then, I can adjust the timing. However, I need a specialist to come over and tune it because I do not have a CO machine.

[@shahrokhabedi3476]

@@GentilsGarage I have a E12/518 (1977) in iran and replaced the carburator of ( solex DT 32 _32) to dual stromberg and magnet ignition system of E28 for it after changing the short motor to 2000cc and e12 head cylinder / the needle high ratio is very important in its ziggler .( sorry for my bad english writing).

[@GentilsGarage]

@@shahrokhabedi3476 ok, I see. That’s a good point about the needle. Thank you

[@shahrokhabedi3476]

@@GentilsGarage 🙏👍

[@markholyoak9790]

look like sized engine mate

[@Tenkaichibudokai22]

Not anymore.