Now is the perfect time to learn 3D printing!

[@matty-dc4pq]

Another great one thanks Emil. Have been 3d printing 5 years b4 i building my vpin and would encourage people to learn and create their own print files ,to many relying on others to create the file they need.

[@wayofthewrench]

That's dude! Yeah that's true but there is already sooo much out there, usually someone has already made what you need. I need to make a video on designing a custom STL for people. Thanks for the watch, cheers!

[@andyb6120]

Never thought I would have watched a 3d printer clip. Fascinating and very informative.

[@wayofthewrench]

Awesome! I tried to make it easy and interesting for people to watch and so they might wanna try it. It's not as hard as it looks. Plus you can make some really cool stuff. Thanks for the watch!

[@robinvangunst9895]

Well done again mate. Always great work. :)

[@wayofthewrench]

Thanks, I'm happy you appreciate the video. Cheers!

[@skortch27-pinball]

Another great video Emil! A 3D printer is one of the best purchases I ever made. I used it extensively on my Vpin builds. Component mounts, custom service button mount with volume and shaker intensity control, even the base for a custom topper. I’ve even used it in a pinch to make a part for my real machine while I waited for real parts to be delivered. Not to mention the obligatory Knick Knacks that you’ll end up making even though you say you won’t. Such a versatile piece of equipment.

[@wayofthewrench]

Thanks! Yeah I couldn't agree more! These things are crazy cool and I highly recommend people pick up a used one and get started.....too much fun to be had. Thanks for the watch!

[@onewaydown]

It's likely also good to do your leveling with the bed heated up, and probably the nozzle too. Since there's thermal expansion in play, leveling when heated would make sure it's level in the same environment as when it's printing.

[@wayofthewrench]

Ya know I tried that but using the same suggested piece of A1 paper and leveling with it hot made it too far away for me. Leveling cold is consistently good for me but I bet some printers are different. I'm in the middle of purchasing a Bamboo printer so I'll let you know. I can't wait to multi color print! Thanks for the watch!

[@onewaydown]

There's a lot of little nuances with these things and the various printer and filament types. I have an Elegoo Neptune 2, which is essentially an Ender 3. There's also a Z-Offset, which is another point of calibration. For me, I have to increase the squish when I'm using PETG vs PLA. PLA is fine at the -0.9 or -1.0 that it came set as, but PETG I have to lower it -0.1 for it to adhere correctly. I also replaced the leveling springs on mine, as that's another thing that can introduce some variances that can drive ya nuts. =) One of these days I'll finally build my v-pin... I'm shooting for 32", I think. There's not many options for mini hardware, like side rails or lockdown bars, though.

[@wayofthewrench]

Yeah there can be but once you figure it out, it's pretty easy. Yeah dude you gotta build a vpin. A 32" mini version would be cool. Yeah there isn't anything as far as I know. Thanks for the watch!

[@onewaydown]

For sure, once dialed in, it's pretty easy and fun. But different filaments (brands/types/colors) have their own preference when it comes to nozzle and bed temps - or, in my case, the 'squish' factor. So, you have to run some tests each time to figure out what they prefer. It's still a great tool in the toolbox, though. I have a keyboard drawer in my arcade unit. I bought a spinner and arcade trackball, and I needed something to mount them in. I printed out a couple of perfect fit boxes for them that I can just slide the drawer in/out to use. It's great having the tool to solve unique problems. There's some 3D models for lockdown bars that I'm going to try out, like the one from Nevil (thing:4562013). Hopefully, I can just scale them or trim them short in the middle to fit the build. I just wonder if sanding the plastic will be okay on the hands, or if maybe it needs an epoxy/clear coat.

[@wayofthewrench]

Nice! I would say that sanding alone won't be enough visually. It generally gets pretty scratched/cloudy looking after sanding. You could probably make it feels ok though. Mind you, I'm always gonna want that cool stainless steel feel under my hands.

[@tomderuysscher1050]

Great video!! 3 d printing is so much fun, some great tips we’ve got there!!! Thx Emil😊👍🏻

[@wayofthewrench]

Thanks! Glad you liked it. Yup 3d printing is pretty sweet.....and addictive. Thanks for the watch!

[@LatelierdArnoz]

Cool video dude !!!

[@wayofthewrench]

Glad you enjoyed the video! Lot's more coming too. Thanks for the watch!

[@technofeeliak]

You're the best!

[@wayofthewrench]

Thanks dude! Cheers!

[@curtiskelch4995]

Nice work as usual! Thought for sure you were going to print a 3D Creature speaker grill. That would be awesome!! Not sure if there are plans out there for that though.

[@wayofthewrench]

Thanks! I actually have an even better idea for the speaker grills, you'll have to wait and see! Thanks for the watch!

[@melissaSherwood-f7f]

Great video! We are going to give Ultimaker Cura a try today….also need one of those magnetic build plates, that came off so smooth compared to some of our builds on a glass plate!

[@wayofthewrench]

Thanks! Yeah Cura is pretty easy to use. This magnetic flex plate is super nice, I've had waaay less issues with prints not sticking. Thanks for the watch, happy printing!

[@Slydog43UTube]

I love pinball (I have over 25 machines at home) plus about 10 3d printers, great vid, thanks

[@wayofthewrench]

Me too! I love pinball but I am still looking for a good cheap project pin to restore for the channel. I've been messing around with my buddies pins but I'm itching to get my own. I'm actually interested in designing and building my own homebrew pin too. That's a lot of printers, you do this as a business? Thanks for the watch!

[@AlaskaNick]

Another Amazing video!! Slowly building the cab. I can tell most of the pieces but some I cannot at 35:22. Do you have a list of how many of each one you printed? My son can print them out for me while I visit him next week. It looks like the lockbar button support stl is no longer listed on Arnoz website?

[@wayofthewrench]

No I don't have a list but there is one printed for every transparent button and Arnoz board in the parts video. The STL files that are extra were just pulled from various searches for virtual pinball on places like thingaverse. The fire button was found from a French vpin Facebook group called Monte de Cab.....or something like that. I'm not so sure that's needed yet. Thanks for the watch!

[@runbmp]

Few recommends from my personal experiences after years of 3d printing. I've found glass plates to be the great with glue sticks, small very thin application on the smooth glass side ( glass plates have a rough side and smooth side. The reason I use the smooth side is that the underneath gives a mirror smooth finish. I also then take the plate a place it in the freezer for couple of minutes and the print pops right off on it's own. Doing this my plate has no wear and looks just like the first day I bought the printer. I also highly recommend octoprint with a raspberry pi. It makes things real easy to send your print from Cura directly to the printer. and for SLA printing... no question, the magnet plate is a must.

[@wayofthewrench]

Cool, thanks for the suggestions. I never tried the smooth side of the glass plate, I'll have to try it. I've heard of octoprint and a raspberry Pi before, I'll have to look into that too. Thanks for the watch and welcome to the channel!

[@sam27753]

Thanks for this Video, and also for giving the last push for falling in the next rabbithole Emil! 😂 Arcade ✅️ Vpin ✅️ (ok we know its never done) ... now 3D Printing. But this will be good for a nice housing of my RPI2DMD Clock (looking forward to see this Playlist from you 😁

[@wayofthewrench]

You're very welcome Sam! I love technology and 3d printing is just another tool to help you create some truly amazing products. Thanks for the watch and your support for the channel. Prost!

[@wottenad]

That printer is what I started with and did a bunch of parts for my build (a HUGE PITA), but now I have the Bambu X1 Carbon, and it is NIGHT AN DAY difference! You can print from your phone and watch it in real time from your phone. Highly recommended to look at all the Bambu printers, especially since they are on sale until 12/2/24.

[@wayofthewrench]

Yeah it's a decent starter printer. I am ordering an X1 for the shop too. Thanks for the watch!

[@btx926]

Did you have a link to the STLs for the wedge pieces. I'd like to do those! Thanks!

[@wayofthewrench]

www.thingiverse.com/thing:6280812#google_vignette Here ya go!

[@Jebusisblatantidolatry]

Question where did you did you find the coin door open stl? And the coin return button stl? I am having a hard time finding them...

[@wayofthewrench]

I'm not sure but all I did was searched virtual pinball STL in Google and looked at thingaverse and the other STL websites. Hope that helps. Thanks for the watch!

[@JamesBond-kx3kl]

This freaking guy.... You got me shelling out money on a pin build and now you got me needing a 3D printer! lol Love your stuff, can't wait to see more!

[@wayofthewrench]

Lol. Sorry bud! Glad you are busy building and having fun. Cheers!

[@JamesBond-kx3kl]

@@wayofthewrench I was literally looking at 3d printer reviews when this popped up in my feed. Good stuff, love your channel!

[@wayofthewrench]

Nice! Thanks a lot, it's always nice to hear that people are loving my work. Cheers!

[@MauiPunter]

Can the support structure be recycled back into filament and be used again?

[@wayofthewrench]

It depends on the filament but technically, yes it can be. Petg is literally recycled pop bottles. You just need a setup where you can grind it down and then remelt/extrude. I just put mine in the recycling as it is the same material as pop bottles. Thanks for the watch!

[@locked01]

Yep, 3d printing is useful. In designed and printed my own plunger mechanism instead of using expensive 150 USD kits. Yes, the plunger is not an original full size pinball plunger, but it's metal and does it's job well.

[@wayofthewrench]

Cool! Yeah at the heart of that plunger is really just a linear potentiometer. Probably only a couple bucks to make. Thanks for the watch!

[@jhoff80]

Cura's fine, I'd recommend Orcaslicer though. Also, I hate to suggest something that you can't get through the affiliate program, but anyone who is a total beginner who gets something other than the Bambu A1 Mini is doing themselves a disservice. As close to 'set it and forget it' as you can get.

[@wayofthewrench]

I'll have to check Orcaslicer out, I've never heard of it. Yes I have heard good things from Bamboo Labs, I'm thinking of getting a X1 for Black Friday. Thanks for the watch!

[@KarlGosling]

Agreed, these days there is no need to run an old printer like this, most of the video is redundant as new printers (Bambu labs and others) have moved on so far you just don't do half of whats shown here any more! The A1 Mini is £160 brand new so no real need to buy old second hand stuff and spend hours messing about to get a good print.

[@aaronmcfarland6588]

I feel that getting an older printer is good for the people who want to learn how it operates. Then, when you get a fancier new one, less hassle, but if something goes wrong, you know where to look. You only know what you know.

[@wayofthewrench]

You are correct on a lot of points but it is even easier for people to access older cheaper printers ( or free) that still make perfectly good prints. As I show in the video, you just need some basic information and you're good to go. A lot of people can't afford or justify $300 CAN to try out 3d printing but they sure can find a decent used printer and just get started. The Bamboo Lab A1 is a really sweet printer though, especially at that price point. I'm actually ordering a X1 for the shop for my students to learn/make cool stuff like automotive gaskets, prototype auto parts, and welding jigs. Thanks for the watch and your support!

[@robinvangunst9895]

Octoprint on a Raspberry Pi is great for monitoring and file management.

[@wayofthewrench]

Nice, I'll have to check that out. Thanks for the watch and the tip. Cheers!

[@quoleo]

First almost at 50k, LETS GOOO!!!! Second, do you have any videos for installing Beacons?

[@wayofthewrench]

I know right? About 30 days and I'll have 50k! Crazy how much work it's been to get to this point. I do not have any video on installing beacons; however, you can just make an output from your sainsmart in DOF to be a beacon just like I did for a gear motor or shaker. Just tell DOF the output is a beacon and wire it up. Thanks for the watch and your support for the channel! Cheers!

[@thogar1]

I would concur with the Bambu comments, even an A1 is amazing. I'm not going to build a second machine but your vids saved my behind as i was following the first build. Have you come across any LED matrix/strip issues and the Teensy - mine gave out after a year and a half. Still investigating the problem. Haven't tried simply using another usb port but that's next. Lights and Matrix just froze and wouldn't restart. ugh.

[@wayofthewrench]

Yeah I'm gonna find out as I've ordered a X1 from Bambu Labs so we'll see. Glad I could help you out on your build! No I've had zero issues. Maybe check that a usb cable hasn't fallen out or a signal/power wire come loose. Start with the easy stuff. Thanks for the watch!

[@thogar1]

Oh man once you see that thing purge filament and do all of its other checks before a print, you may just smack that ender with a hammer. All of my LEDs work, ran the test program so signal is good. Got to figure out this com problem. Seriously though, Bambu’s are next level. Excited for you.

[@wayofthewrench]

I got the printer and need to do an unboxing video.....pretty excited too.

[@BifsieOfficial]

Resin printers do not use lasers. They use a high-def LCD that displays the pattern for each layer.

[@wayofthewrench]

Some do use an UV laser, especially older cheaper types. The newer ones use a UV light from a projector. Similar idea, just different UV light source.

[@beardedprince4942]

Yay I’m the first 🎉

[@wayofthewrench]

You know you are getting somewhere when your subscribers are fighting to be the first to comment! Lol. Thanks for the watch and your support for the channel! Cheers!

[@BifsieOfficial]

A raft and a brim are 2 completely different things. A brim adds a lip around the part. A raft prints a full buildup under the part with an interface layer on top. Then it prints the part on top of that. Rafts are not really used anymore.

[@wayofthewrench]

I'm not sure why you are bringing up things that are in the video. There are visual examples in the video and explanations of what they are. Yes a brim is a lip extending from the part and a raft is a separate layer underneath the part.

[@BifsieOfficial]

Solid infill in many cases is less stiff depending on infill type. Solid infill most times is a bad idea.

[@wayofthewrench]

You get diminishing returns after 50% and after 70-75%, you get pretty close to 100% strength/stiffness. It also depends on the infill type and direction of load.

[@bme7491]

Looks like you need more dustpans and brushes.

[@wayofthewrench]

Lol.....I need more. Thanks for the watch!

[@BifsieOfficial]

Bro, so many things. You are not going to be a few C low and get extrusion issues. You have to be well below printing temp to have extrusion issues. If you are around normal temp and your extruder is clicking, there are many things that can cause it. Stepper driver current too low, clogged or partially clogged nozzle, plastic stuck in the heat break, bad PTFE in your heat break, clogged teeth on your extruder drive wheel(s), pushing plastic too fast (large layer height combined with fast speed), etc. Those are the most common causes.

[@wayofthewrench]

Once again, everything you just said are reasons for extrusion issues but most of those reasons are fixed by nozzle replacement (in the video). Base settings in Cura will get you to this point but sometimes the filament has a temp range that can be changed to help extrusion or reduce stringing ( in the video). You also forgot the drive wheel screw loose which can be intermittent feeding and eventually loss of feed when the screw comes out fully. Thanks for your info and the watch.