NP241C / NP231 transferase assembly/rebuild

[@brandonmortensen8208]

Awesome video man thanks a million

[@FrederickFascenelli]

This is a GREAT video. I installed a Slip Yoke Eliminator kit from Tome Wood, only to discover my NP241C was stuck in four wheel drive (this occurred before in reinstalled it. This video educated me that the "dog ears" (those little brass clips) keep the Synchro Snap ring together. THANK YOU!!!

[@murphysgarage]

Thank you for watching.

[@hoot330]

Very nice job Thanks again

[@kensnyder2340]

I like these tutorial videos.....😁. Those are cool snap ring pliers! We didn't need those monsters for scuba repair, LOL.

[@Fishwheelspdx]

Thanks for the info!

[@murphysgarage]

You bet!

[@Fishwheelspdx]

How much does it run to have one of these rebuilt?

[@murphysgarage]

It depends on what the unit needs. Bearings, seals, and labor, I get about 1500 but hard parts can change that fast. I see rebuilders around 2500-3000.

[@damoncraig6671]

Excellent work 🌟🌟🌟🌟🌟

[@murphysgarage]

Thank you.

[@staceymain4563]

You didn’t replace the input shaft seal

[@murphysgarage]

Nope, was in good shape and wasn’t doing a full rebuild.

[@NotmeGK123]

Yeah my 91 k1500 seal😢in transfer case went out oil every where and making wining noises now above 40 mph hopefully holds together for year while save money up ifN to put 80 90 in it

[@frankyeilding2546]

Love the video, one problem. I need to replace the bushing and seal on my 99 (classic) output tail housing. I pulled this up hoping you would replace the bushing and I could see what tools I’d need to knock out the old bushing and tap in the new one. Any chance you can tell me?

[@murphysgarage]

If you remove the tail housing, I use an aluminum bushing driver. I have a Bluepoint set but you can buy them from Harbor freight pretty cheap. In a pinch, I have used a socket the right size and have also used a punch. With the tail housing on the truck, I have used seal pullers for the seal and a hooked slide hammer to get the bushing out (not fun, better to remove the housing). The output seals and bushings are pretty easy, the captured roller bearings are the ones that suck to get out.

[@paolofogaccia9455]

I’m replacing main parts of the transfer case (NP 241 J) of my Jeep. I have to insert new oil seals. The seal outer edge (metal) will go to contact with its position outer edge (aluminum) of transfer case. To seal this contact, I’m thinking to apply a thin layer of Permatex Gear Oil Gasket Maker 81182. Besides, when I removed the oil seal over the planetary assembly, so to extract the planetary and then remove the input shaft bearing (5072458AA), I had to demolish the oil seal and doing so I made some scratch to aluminum edge. Replacing the new oil seal (its metal outer edge is covered with a gummy thin layer), I’m thinking to put a very small quantity of 81182 gasket maker only on the scratched zone (to prevent future oil leaks). What do you think about? Thanks a lot in advance

[@murphysgarage]

@@paolofogaccia9455 if the seals have the red coating or the raised glue looking stuff on the metal side, then you don’t need to use anything but if they are bare metal, then I would.

[@jessieculbert365]

Great video. I just done the exact thing to mine. Which is my question? After doing the swap and replacing the worn range fork everything shifts and engages but low range is extremely difficult to get into. After getting it in its also extremely hard to get out and then out of neutral. Hi range shifts flawless. Any idea what could cause this?? Thanks.

[@murphysgarage]

If it shifted smooth and easy by hand on the bench, the first thing I would look at is the ramp on the shifter. You can kind of do a test without taking it back out. If you remove the detent ball and spring externally and then see if it goes in and out easy, you know it is the ramp on the shifter. If it makes no change, it may be in the slide assembly, shift collar etcetera. then you would have to open it back up.

[@jessieculbert365]

Thank you ill check that this afternoon.

[@cyarn]

Thanks for the video. Great stuff. Is it typical for the last retainer clip on the output shaft to have a bit more play in it? I noticed you took a couple extra looks at yours and mine fits a bit looser than the way the other clips on the unit fit up. It shift far enough that it will expose the inside edge of the clip that would normally sit flush against the shaft.

[@murphysgarage]

@@cyarn I know if there is to much slop you can have issues with wear and can cause early failure, I seem to see it in the low range shift collar. I look at the snap rings on the main shafts real close ever since I discovered there are some thicker snap rings which won’t fully seat and then come off when shifting in and out of gear. When this happens, it won’t go in 4wd and will eventually cause a real problem.

[@OldMcDonald-j1u]

I'm trying to find those pliers that your using... or ones that will work???

[@murphysgarage]

@@OldMcDonald-j1u the snap-ring pliers are off the Snap-on truck.

[@martykroenecke4273]

There is a cap that is supposed to b3 on top of the spring. I see you missed that.

[@Fishwheelspdx]

What kind of sealant do you recommend for the input shaft cover?

[@murphysgarage]

I use either Rightstuff in the tube or automatic transmission permatex.

[@michaelreyes4560]

Can you rebuild mine ? I need the exact same thing done to mine it’s a passenger side drop 1990 suburban 241c and the shops here local keep telling me it cannot be done. I can ship it to you.

[@murphysgarage]

Sorry, no, I don’t do much line repair these days. You can buy parts from Torque King or right off EBay and go through it.