NutriBullet Extractor Blade Bearing Replacement Tutorial

[@bobjackson4720]

I knocked at the second bearing for three hours with no luck. Even trying to heat it with a hot air gun no luck. I was almost ready to only change one bearing but got another idea. I left the assembly in the freezer overnight and the next day after three or four knocks it came out. If your upper bearing outer rings are really seized in place try it, it worked for me.

[@nikm2045]

👍

[@billmarshall8438]

Good advice, but it didn't work for me.

[@TimHeyes]

Amazing, thanks for sharing this. Tip for anyone searching for an alternative to the electrical conduit to press the new bearings - I used the old one on top of the new and smacked that with a hammer!

[@ritasmarteater]

That was what I was thinking. Brilliant 😉

[@dawnbradley-fromstresstobl920]

that's exactly what I was thinking!

[@cracker135]

Just like skateboard wheel bearings!

[@raymondhoward4147]

Good idea!

[@zayeba]

For any cheapos out there, if you dont use your grain grinder, just swap the blades. PS: Amazing and clear instructions, special thanks for the part number!

[@erichandyauto]

I worked on 3 Nutribullet bases that needed new bearings. Two of them used the S698-2RS bearing with the dimensions 8mm x 19mm x 6mm, replacing the junk 698Z bearings. The 3rd one used a different 626ZZ bearing for a smaller shaft, with the dimensions 6mm x 19mm x 6mm. Unfortunately, one of the plastic bases cracked when hammering on the blade shaft to remove it from the bearings. It was excessively rusty. After cracking the base, I decided to use a 3/8 drive 3/4" 12 pt deep socket to support the center of the last base while hammering. To drive the bearings out, I placed the head end of a long screw against the center of the bearing and hammered on the threaded end. To drive the bearings into the bore, I used a 3/8 drive 14mm 6 pt deep socket. Kudos to you for taking the time to share how it all comes apart and how it all goes back together. You are the cat's pajamas!

[@johnmeyer77]

Thanks!! The one I showed in the video is still working. I gave it back to my daughter who uses is several times a week to make smoothies for her family.

[@ramoniribe6593]

What local stores sell the bearings? How do I know which bearings my nutri-bullet will need?

[@johnmeyer77]

@@ramoniribe6593 The bearing specs are given both in the description and in the video. Bearings are a specialty and I'm not sure you can find them in a retail store, although I have bought similar bearings at stores which sell rollerblades and skateboard, both of which use this style of bearing.

[@pavangajendragad5195]

amazing instructions .. very helpful .. Just a small tip to remove the bearing .. Take a flat head nail wedge the head in between the brown rubber gasket and bearings , then tap the nail (sharp end )with a hammer .. you can get the bearing out in a second .. I tried a lot then ended up with this method .. Thought it will help others save time and one less thing in the landfill ..

[@timwfm]

I need a video for the flat head technic. LOL

[@bigfinn05]

Using a nail, I had both bearings out in under a minute!

[@raymondhoward4147]

Good tip!

[@jackem8922]

Great tutorial, John. My NutriBullet is back to as-new condition thanks to your precise instructions. BTW, I used a 13 mm socket to tap down the replacement bearings - it did the job perfectly.

[@johnmeyer77]

Gosh, a socket is a perfect idea. Wish I'd thought of that.

[@danm6189]

Was gonna say the same - I used a half inch socket out of a 1/4 drive set :)

[@nikm2045]

👍

[@vonwane]

I replaced my bearings in my extractor a little over a year and a half ago. I use my Nutribullet every morning for a breakfast smoothie. Still working great. Like printers and ink cartridges, Nutribullet wants to make money off the sales of more blades. Thats why they make the bearings out of regular steel so they will wear out in about six months. There was a coupon for the purchase of another blade when I bought the Nutribullet. They were already advertising on the next bearing replacement.

[@bestNameICanThinkOf]

I can't even remember how many new replacement blade bases I've bought over the past several years. Thank you for showing me I can start sending a few less of these things to the landfill!

[@zayeba]

I was thinking about the same thing, better swap a bearing, already too much plastic out there=

[@2A-Bear-Arms]

@@zayeba Sounds like a crappy product overall. Lousy construction.

[@KenNakanote]

This was perfect. Instead of getting new bearings, I removed the dust shields and oiled the bearings and they are like new. Thanks for putting this video together.

[@princethewondercat]

Once bearings are shot oil will not help much, not the right fix

[@thejanssen6030]

Very helpful video, esp regarding bearing removal. A few notes. Bearings are not typically built to be liquid proof, so leaking shouldn't be blamed on the bearings unless they are severely damaged. Overfilling these blenders can force liquid slowly through the assembly, even when new. The small cups don't have fill lines, but can be overfilled. Bearings lose lubricant over time, so a noisy bearing isn't necessarily the same as a bad (physically damaged) bearing. The black bearing gaskets on both sides snap off and on and can be easily removed with a very small flat screwdriver or knife. This allows for the bearings to be cleaned and repacked with oil if they are not physically damaged and allows for the gasket to be flattened if it's bent. After about 7 years of somewhat regular use, my noisy, grinding bearings had absolutely no rust or wear, despite occasional overfilling and leaking. A little coconut oil and they're as smooth and quiet as the replacement base that I guess I didn't really need to buy.

[@mattwalters02]

THANK YOU! I have wanted to do this process for years - we use our Nutri a LOT and it always frustrates me how often I have had to replace the whole extractor blade, just because the poor quality bearings fail. I was never sure which size I needed... so you have provided the missing piece of the jigsaw. Quiet smoothie-making... here we come.

[@findinthelove]

I absolutely hate tossing things into the landfill when they can just be repaired. I figured a repair was possible and am thankful that you had this posted! I could have probably figured it out but it's so much easier when someone else does. 🙂

[@toddheartsound5451]

I just needed to know how to open it because I got some water trapped in there and thought it might be a bad idea to run it like that! Wonderful video! Interesting that I got my nutribullet for 10 years now. It got a lot of use as well as many months in storage. It doesn't appear to have rusted significantly at all!

[@evanclark7001]

So pumped about this video!! My unit has been so loud for so long. Who knew all I had to do was do a quick search and click on this thumbnail! Really well laid out and clearly explained. Many thanks!!

[@ultraultraultra]

perfection just repaired my nutribullet blades by this tutorial. went step by exact step. I bought the same bearings and no regrets. dB decreased rapidly, even when i compare it to, when the device was brand new. those were very good choice. it costs me 9e (bought from local vendor + delivery fees). thank you for the tutorial.

[@johnmeyer77]

Thanks for that post. It makes me really happy to have helped so many people.

[@tootzy-the-roll]

Tyvm for this video. I just changed my bearings after 3 years of use. It was disgustingly filthy. Now spins smoothly!

[@cnneville1962]

Thank you for your excellent video. To prevent the new bearing from getting damaged, I inserted it slightly, then placed the old bearing on it, and hammered it do the new bearing entered and kept hitting it till it went 2mm inside. Then I put the second new bearing and again placed the old bearing on it and hammered the old bearing on the new one till it got fully inserted. Hope this helps others reading this Once again thank you for your wonderful explanation. My mixer is working like original .

[@johnmeyer77]

Great idea!!

[@ecsyntric]

awesome. easier steps to put bearings back.. 1. stack a new bearing and an old bearing 2. hit the old bearing on the edge to drive the new one in 3. when the old bearing starts to catch put second bearing underneath old bearing 4. drive in both new bearing to the bottom

[@mladenstojanovic7748]

Dear John. Thank you for making this video. Today it's very affordable to buy a set made of this plastic housing + blades and bearings of course. Yet your video inspired me to rather buy needed bearings (80% of the price of the new replacing set) and place them in the original housing. I had a bit more trouble because old bearings felt apart while pulling them out. Their external rings remained in their original position, firmly attached to the metal casing. But it's possible even in that case to pull them out with a little patience and effort for sure. Stay safe, all the best from SEE.

[@smokeybandit1197]

My blades lift up and down in the blender screw on base? What is the solution?

[@_______-]

Awesome. Mine is the Salter Nutripro 1000. Took a LOT of hammering to get the shaft out. Needed to put the unit on two pieces of wood either side to stop damage to the plastic. Left to soak in oil overnight. A good 30 mins of hard strikes with the hammer the next day and it finally came out. Best way I found to get the bearings out was not to lever them, but to stick the screwdriver through the hole and knock down at 45 degrees and keeping turning the lid 180 degrees each time. Again, a good soak in oil overnight helps. Took a chance that the bearings are the same (old ones are completely destroyed). Hopefully will get it all back together once they arrive. Thanks!

[@heatherwalker8511]

Great video! Really helpful 😊 Some additional tips I found that might be helpful for others with more stuck parts. 1. If the drive nut is hard to come undone, use WD40 to help loosen 2. The shaft was very stuck, so put it in the freezer so the metal contracts/shrinks. Did the trick! 3. When hammering out the bearings again I used WD40 to help, and a sacrificial screw driver (end got slightly bent when hammering) but worth it 😊 Happy fixing!

[@Thesakeable]

Thanks for the video - to anybody struggling to get the bearings out: I used a screw with a perfect head size and inserted it into the hole so it perfectly got stuck at the inner bearing ring. I gave it a few good blows with a hammer and both bearings popped right out. This was after I tried for an hour to get the bearings out with a screwdriver - didn't work for me.

[@laramargaret3374]

This is my second Magic bullet, and I have to admit that for the price it delivers really well kzbin.infoUgkxCKuMxLnvr6fJd_M4SE-n7trcGj3zEUHq Considering that there are other products twice and even four times more expensive, I think that for one person this is just right. The only problem is that you have to make sure that your vegetables and ice are cut into small pieces because it won't chop and blend well. I made the mistake of putting whole baby carrots with a cup of mixed greens, and it wasn't pretty.. Also be careful not to overfill it, because it will overflow. As long as you follow the manufacturer's instructions for use, you should be happy with this purchase.

[@azyfloof]

This video was super helpful, thank you! I had a seized blade, and I *thought* perhaps the parts unscrewed, but nothing was happening, even with knowing the parts were likely reverse threaded. Your video showed me the parts do indeed unscrew, so I persevered and gave it some extra gronk. I had to pull the bearings out in pieces, first ripping out the dust covers, then the cages, then the balls followed by the inner then the outer race. That was exactly as fun as it sounds. Got all the parts cleaned up, so I'll order new bearings one day. Luckily I still have two more blades

[@MrLiquidArrogance]

Bearings came in today and I got my first blade done . . . old bearings disintegrated upon attempted removal which was a nightmare but I manged to get them both. If anybody else got to the "build yourself a custom tool" part and thought "ah, crap" . . . I found a 14mm extended socket to get it started worked perfectly, followed by a 13mm once you need it to go past the lip. Thanks again for the great vid!

[@johnmeyer77]

Yeah, I should have remembered the socket wrench trick. I too thought about that, but AFTER I produced the video. Glad you got it fixed!

[@jessmchardy7144]

This was so helpful! My bearings absolutely fell to pieces when I tried to take them out. The outer ring of the bearing had rusted on to the lining so I had to soak in white vinegar to eliminate the rust and banged out the bearings using a lot of force. It’s now spinning beautifully!

[@johnmeyer77]

That's great to hear. Mine were rusting too, but not like that. I continue to be amazed at Nutribullet's terrible bearing choice. I'm an engineer, and we're taught to pay attention to material properties. You simply do not use anything other than stainless bearings in a situation where the bearings are likely to get wet.

[@mattiasnyberg]

Thanks so much for sharing this! I've just successfully replaced my very rusty original bearings with stainless steel new ones and my Nutribullet is super quiet :)

[@raymondhoward4147]

Thanks for the video. I just replaced my lid and mixer gaskets and decided my mixer bearings needed attention. Just ordered stainless bearings from amazon. Will use your video as a guide.

[@rickbasnett8635]

Thanks John. You've just saved us a lot of money with your excellent tutorial and given us something useful to do during lockdown here in the UK!

[@sethgrimmett]

Thanks for this very clear video. Mine had got more noisy and was leaking a rusty water from the bearing. This was a quick job 10-15 mins with the hardest part getting the drive nut off which needed some WD-40 and pliers to start it off. All cleaned up, new bearings fitted and pleased with the result. A lot cheaper than a replacement part.

[@karlstenator]

For this video, thank you my dude. My Nutribullet blade has been getting harder and harder to spin, and I figured that the blade bearing was ceasing up and I didn't want to risk blowing the motor unit. I've ordered some "S698 2RS " bearings off of E-Bay for $10 (for a set of four!) and I will replace them in a couple of weeks when they arrive, all thanks to your great video.

[@DhavalPatel-df6pe]

Please share link.

[@vanessamatthew]

Yes please share link for bearings

[@karlstenator]

@@vanessamatthew these are the ones; www.ebay.com.au/itm/293022904028 It's worth noting that getting the old bearings out was the hardest part of this job. Also, some Nutriblends do leak through my blender - I suspect this is due to washers/seals no longer fitting correctly/snuggly. It still blends just fine though - and the repair has saved me at least a new blade for the timebeing.

[@garybest1891]

Thanks. Worked perfectly. I used the rim of a 7/16 and half inch sockets to tap the bearing into position. Love repairs.

[@mquiniones27]

Great idea! Thanks Gary!

[@Tal.10]

Thanks Gary, all the best

[@AK27inAZ]

Great tutorial! This worked perfectly. I placed a 9/16 socket over the rim of each bearing to tap it in.

[@pllahey3784]

For that first difficult part of trying to loosen the bearing, I took about a 4d nail and ground one side of the head flat, and ground the top of the head down until it was about half its normal thickness. I also had to grind around the edge of it until it would just fit into the interior bearing shaft hole. Then, I took about a two inch section of a non-threaded head end of an 8mm bolt that just happened to be lying around (the Lord doth provide) and ground it diagonally. Fitting the edge of the nail head into that minimal groove between the two bearings, I pounded the flat side of the sharpened end of the bolt like a wedge to drive the nail head laterally into the groove. Once that split was minimally opened, the nail head also worked great to tap the bearing the rest of the way out the way the video shows. Like other commenters, I used the old bearing to pound the new one into place. Isn't it great the way everyone shares their experiences to make it so much easier for the next guy!

[@johnmeyer77]

Great technique. Like you say, thanks for sharing!

[@miramal9538]

Thank you for this video, although it calls for replacement of bearings, I just used the same bearings with mine, I didn't buy new ones. I remove the bearings inside and followed all the videos, and once the bearings are out, clean the inside thoroughly with brush, dishwashing soap and water. Rinse and let it all dry, once dried, apply coconut oil inside the place where you took the bearings, using earbuds. I also soaked the cleaned bearings in coconut oil for half an hour before putting in back in together. And it works, no more loud sounds and no more tightness. The bearings of the nutribullets are sealed with tight washers on both sides, so I think it makes sense to reuse them. Anyway, goodluck with everyone, this video is really helpful, Thank you🙏🙏

[@ahndeux]

The only problem is the oil is lighter than grease and it would fling out due to the high centrifugal forces. Eventually, you would have no lubrication and it would die must faster. The seals on the bearings can be removed easily with a small pick. You can see the exposed bearings and do a better job at cleaning out the new or old bearings with carb cleaner or acetone.

[@miramal9538]

So, it took one year for me to prove that you are right..Now I need to replace the bearings completely because they are rusted again. Coconut oil really is just temporary, so I'm looking for the non-rusting replacement which is challenging at the moment. And of course this video is gold, because I have to watch it again in order for me to open the whole thing..thank you so much🙏🙏

[@jacekzoltek]

I just fixed one successfully. Two others I opened today were the earliest version blade units with factory installed stainless S698Z ! Both shafts had worn out so I believe the best is to toss them in a bin.

[@iRyan876]

Thank you SO much!! Mine started SMOKING because it was so bad. I already claimed warranty so my new blade is on the way but I'll be doing this from here on out!

[@vanjamne]

Thanks, used this guide to open my extractor blade, cleaned it and sprayed with wd,since it was hard to find new bearings in town.

[@princethewondercat]

WD is not a lubricant more like a cleaner & will not last

[@dlk4318]

John, your video is excellent. I did follow all of your instructions but one, and that one was enough to break the plastic shell at the very end as I was putting back brand new stainless steel barring. Well, I learned the lesson so I'll do my best not to repeat the same error next time. Thank you once again for your very useful video. Cheers!

[@johnmeyer77]

I've replaced bearings on other products (like an old vacuum cleaner) and the extremely tight fit means that you can't get the bearing race sideways in the opening by even a millimeter because that exerts too much sideways pressure. Not only will that cause the bearing to get stuck but, as you apparently found out, it can even split the enclosure. I am very sorry that happened to you. Fortunately, the replacement is easy to get and not much more money than the bearings.

[@lanep4322]

Super info here. I always hated ordering a new, pricey extractor blade assembly. This is the better way.

[@KBB645K]

Thank you, John. Followed your instructions and I changed the bearings to the Nutribullet in less than an hr.

[@janellehoney-badger6525]

That was a worthwhile tutorial, cheers John. It appears there can be food build-up in there too, something I had no idea of. But the bearings replacement is a big help.

[@squareman10]

Great video, thanks. FYI for anyone looking for bearings...Bearings Direct wanted $15 UPS shipping, total cost around $35. I used Bearings Nation on eBay...free shipping and total came to around $17. (but thank you for the Bearings Direct info, it helped me with the product info I needed to find the Bearings Nation listing). Bearings Nation states food grade in the listing description. Also, if the stainless bearings last 2 years+, why would anyone buy a brand new replacement Nutribullet extractor blade? You're just starting from scratch again with the same garbage they gave you with the original product (Nutribullet should be ashamed of themselves for their greedy planned obsolescence product decision...hoping they see this post). You're going to be in the exact same boat all over again in 6-12 months. I say it's a no-brainer to fix the original with new stainless steel bearings. Just have to be handy and hey, watch out for those blades!

[@johnmeyer77]

Wow, those shipping charges are way more than I paid. I just pulled my invoice, and I paid $7.55 for shipping and $17.90 for the two bearings for a total of $25.45.

[@GaryMeatsLife]

Thanks. I followed this guide and when I opened mine, it looked like a bearingless model with a narrower diameter hole and a thicker shaft. Upon further inspection I discovered the narrower hole was because the outer bearing ring was still embedded into the hole. The thicker shaft was just the inner bearing rings on it. The balls and dust caps were nowhere to be seen!!! With a bit of persuasion and the help of a vice, I managed to remove the bearing rings and fit new ones. Blender is back in action.

[@johnmeyer77]

I'm glad you eventually figured out what was going on and edited your comment. I was wondering how it could work if there was no bearing. I'm also glad you were able to repair it! Enjoy your "new" blender.

[@orbita1]

you were right, removing the old bearings was painful but i got there in the end! Oddly the new bearings were really very loose - i could just drop them in, before screwing things back together, if i turned it over and gently moved the assembly, the bearings would fall out. i hope its all good. i measured and they are only smaller in diameter by 0.02mm

[@vonwane]

Thanks for the repair video: The bearing failures must be a “planned obsolescence” marketing strategy by Nutribullet to sell extractor blades on a continual basis. Nutribullet must know that stainless steel bearings last much longer than regular steel bearings.

[@santiagocardoso8436]

Totally agree.

[@mibjt]

Totally agree with you.

[@grahamjohnson4702]

Yes but that helps keep the product to an affordable selling point, replacing the whole unit only costs £6.50 ( 8.50 us $ ) so why go to all this trouble?

[@andrewjolly319]

@@grahamjohnson4702 Hi - where are you finding your £6.50 price for the blade unit? That's cheaper than I can get good quality bearings.

[@grahamjohnson4702]

@@andrewjolly319 Amazon Spain now equates to £7.41.

[@bicaroyoda4686]

This video is exactly the information I need to fix my leaking Smith+Noble bullet blender. Thanks to KZbin information is readily available - I was going to toss it out. The first bearing came out gradually (slowly) the way you mentioned with a screwdriver. The second is not so easy - I want to prevent damage to the rubber seal at the top. Will persist.

[@johnmeyer77]

Glad it was helpful!

[@philippatel]

Worked like a charm. I also used a 13mm socket to tap in the bearings.

[@Zambusta]

Thank you and much appreciation for the detailed video! All done and whirring away much quieter than before. You also sound a lot like Alan Alda, so I felt like I was getting a tutorial from Hawkeye :)

[@johnmeyer77]

No one has ever told me that. I have, however, been told many times that I look like Woody Harrelson, so much so that back in the late 1980s, when I was somewhat in the public eye, a magazine did a Spy Magazine "separated at birth" showing me next to Harrelson. I never saw the resemblance but then, a dozen years later while waiting with my daughter in a line to go to the top of the Empire State Building, a total stranger came over and told me that I'm Harrelson's twin. However, sounding like Alda is a new one. He's from NYC and I'm from Chicago, so our accents are quite different. However, I guess I'm nasal.

[@abelsoto9048]

Great ... they were unused for months , with this video it was very easy to work again, just hold the blades with a rug turned the other end clockwise and ready ... used some wd40 , it had very little rust.

[@Snorey17]

I 've tried this method once, but because the viton seal on the top was already gone, the bearings did not last that long. So, after spending about 8 bucks on new bearings(not to mention the viton seal, which is impossible to get) i decided to ebay replacement bases, since they are that cheap, and everything is new! It is a shame, but this is the better solution.

[@RichardLeach-q5q]

I certainly agree with @jackem8922s comments. A great tutorial - thanks John. I have also found that a socket works very well in tapping in a new bearing and yes 13mm with these bearings. Wherever possible I like to start the process of removing the shaft by tapping on the loosened nut at the end of the shaft rather than the shaft itself just to reduce/avoid any chance of damaging the start of the thread but your use of a centre punch worked just as well. And I was encouraged John, as I also invariably find myself looking on the floor for a screw or two!

[@dawnbradley-fromstresstobl920]

I'm sooooooo excited about repairing my extractor blade!!! Thanks for this AWESOME tutorial John.

[@johnmeyer77]

Good luck with it. Just take your time getting out the blade and two bearings, and it will be much better than new (because of the stainless bearings) in no time.

[@Me-yy5fd]

Great tutorial. I was curious if there is a washer at the bottom where the bearings sit. Upon removal there was great corrosion and I can't tell if it was buildup or a completely destroyed washer. Thank you for the very informative video.

[@sawdoctor0]

You are so right. The stainless bearings are the only way to go. Also, buy the highest quality lip seal. Still doesn't change the fact that this is an incredibly noisy machine!

[@katrinanelson4061]

Thank you so much! My blades are so dull, now I can sharpen them 🙌

[@johnmeyer77]

I'm not sure sharpening the blades is a good idea, but if you want to try doing it, a simple ignition file might help you dress up any edges that are rolled over. Your goal should be to get a clean (not rolled over) edge rather than trying to hone it to a razor sharp edge. Too fine an edge will probably not stand up to frozen fruit or ice.

[@shapiroezra]

I won't be doing this, but I like your video. I have been buying replacements on Aliexpress for about $11. They last about 6 months if not pressed too hard. What I cannot find is something of higher quality.

[@johnmeyer77]

I did this video over five years ago. The bearings I put in are still working. So, while it is a pain to do this, you do end up with the "higher quality" you are looking for.

[@hannotn]

Great tutorial, but it had the opposite effect than intended. I was just going to clean out the inside, because I saw someone write once that they get a lot of gunk inside, making me think you could disassemble the whole base. Looks like that's not the case and mine's working fine otherwise, so won't bother. But well explained and thanks for your effort and clarity.

[@RS54321]

How in the heck did you so easily get the drive nut off? I can't even get it to budge using pliers!!

[@johnmeyer77]

It actually took quite a bit of work to get it off, which I did just before I decided to do the video. So, to get it to unscrew, I put the blades inside the vise, but didn't tighten the vise. I then put something between the rubber drive nut ribs and turned that really hard, jerking a few times, while the blades pushed against the sides of the loose vise. And, just to repeat what I said in the video, the threads are BACKWARDS, so you have to make sure that you are turning the "wrong way" in order to loosen the rubber drive piece.

[@mquiniones27]

I used two tongue and groove pliers to loosen it. And to reiterate what John Meyer was saying, to loosen the rubber gear from the blade, twist in the CLOCKWISE direction. BTW thanks John for this video. I'm awaiting two "S698-2RS Bearing Stainless Steel Sealed 8x19x6 Miniature" arriving in the mail.

[@nadiaarbee9867]

@@mquiniones27 hi could you send a video of how to get it put I've been trying for months then gave up and trying again 😂😂

[@nadiaarbee9867]

@@johnmeyer77 plz could you share a video showing how exactly to remove it it's so hard it seems impossible

[@mquiniones27]

@@nadiaarbee9867 Hi Nadia! Don't give up! You can do it. And sorry I don't upload videos, I just watch and comment (I know its 2020). Step 1: Get a soft towel, and a pair of pliers like this--> These are "Tongue and Groove Pliers" (or you can use anything that gives you the ability to grab and twist off. Step 2: Put the soft towel over the metal blade part and hold with one hand to keep it from turning. You don't want it to turn. Step 3: Take the pliers/wrench/whatever you have (you can also use your hand or the other part of the soft towel) and twist off the rubber gear part keeping in mind that when you twist it off, you're turning the rubber gear part TO THE RIGHT, or in the CLOCKWISE direction. A few hard twists should loosen the gear from the blade. Does that help? You can do it. Let me know if that helps! :)

[@strangedarren]

Cracking tutorial, bearings changed in under 30mins, thank you!

[@vikasgupta7638]

Hi John great tutorial video of yours but my problem is that I am not able to get the rubber nut off the one on top of the dust cap

[@grepcv]

Me either! How did it work for you??

[@Thesakeable]

@@grepcv remember to twist it CLOCKWISE, so the other way that you usually do, when you take something off. It‘s easier to stabilize the rubber nut with a tool and twist the blades using a cloth to protect your fingers. It takes some strength but comes off eventually.

[@grepcv]

@@Thesakeable it worked, thank you very much!!

[@mmmdail]

This wear seems like such a defect in such an expensive appliance (I bought the pro) and mine's not that old, either. Thank you for such an informative tutorial!

[@johnmeyer77]

You're welcome!

[@markdale8301]

Thanks for video. Bearings ordered. WD40 soaking into the thread to get the thing undone. Will give the blades a sharpen too. So nice to make good in this throw away world.

[@JungleDance]

Wd 4 will collect dust:)

[@sarahhorn4570]

I just bought 2 new blade units on amazon for less than $20. Works great.

[@DhavalPatel-df6pe]

Please share link

[@waltercarrillo4042]

Great video, right to the point with some humor too. Thank you.

[@MrMarkole91]

Hey, thanks a lot for this tutorial. New bearings work like a charm, even chinese ones (that one I could find in my area). Greetings from Serbia! :)

[@OlegPalyvoda]

Thanks, your video helped me to repair my nutribullet.

[@mutlah]

Thank you Sir. I wrecked my first cutter head. Now I've found your vid just in time to repair my already rusted up replacement. This tutorial is greatly appreciated!

[@mrmoney2249]

Thanks for the tutorial man helped out the family here big time 🤝👍

[@miromario3532]

Thanks for sharing this with us.. I have a problem with mine too.., but in my case the motor makes a terrible sound recently.. any idea ???

[@johnmeyer77]

Is the sound coming from the motor, or from the blade assembly? As I show at the beginning and the end of the video, when the bearings fail, they can make a fantastically loud, obnoxious sound. If you get a bad sound even after you replace the bearings, or just buy a new base, then you will have to open up the blender base and look inside to see if the brushes have come loose or have failed. It takes decades for motor brushes to wear out, but when they do, the motor will make a horrible noise.

[@Mrxsara2001]

Check you can remove both bearings before buying replacements. I had to break apart the 1st bearing before the case would move and ended up breaking apart the 2nd bearing too. I just couldn't move it, so ended up chucking it out, so now have a set of new bearings. It's not hard to distort the metal disc on the top when putting the screwdriver in to hit the bearings, which won't help stopping liquid past😞

[@fabianrousset1157]

Thanks for this. This is awesome. I used it for a Ninja extractor. I found there is not a replaceable removal access to the bearing, but using your video think I may have solved the issue of leaking out the bottom at the bearing at least temporarily using some silicone grease on the shaft. If anyone knows about the Shark Ninja single serve extractor bearing replacement let me know!

[@nikih.3]

Thanks for this info, you seem like someone that would know what the black (black not brown) sludge consists of leaking out of the base of my nutribullet? It was kept very clean, seemed in tip top shape but I'm now worried I consumed toxic lubricant, heavy metals, and bacteria for 4 months while this leaking occurred (not my blender didn't know). Obviously it's not healthy (i deal with detoxification issues and chronic illness) and I'm curious if it's lubricant or more oxidation of metals or both... pretty upset by this.

[@johnmeyer77]

Here's something to put your mind at ease. The stuff you are seeing is BELOW the blender jar, meaning that liquid is moving from the jar down to the base. It really cannot move the other way because when you run the blender, it creates positive pressure inside, which is why stuff runs out. Because of this positive pressure, nothing can move back into the smoothie unless you leave the ingredients in the jar and store it in the fridge with the blade/base still attached. Therefore, I doubt very much that you ingested any contaminated liquid.

[@beloveddaughter8585]

@@johnmeyer77 thank you so much for that answer John I was having the same awful gut feeling. My blade assembly has just started accumulating gunk underneath. I noticed a couple days ago that the blades were giving off steam smoothie was warmed. I found yr tutorial while looking for replacement blades. You are so kind to have given us this information. Not sure if I can manage it tho.

[@samanthaoklesson398]

This video helped me a lot, but I’m struggling to find what kind or rubber washer I should use between the blade and bearings, the one that is there is broken. 🤦🏼‍♀️ do you know what kind I can use? At 2:34 the red rubber washer.

[@tindumbovic1079]

It's a standard "semmering" in EU in mm it has dimension 8×16x5. If you can clean it it should be written on top of it...3 nubers arround ( inner diameter, outer diameter, thicknes/hight)

[@tindumbovic1079]

satelit-nikis.bg/en/product/6930/oil-seal-as-8x16x5-viton.html

[@F0untain]

@@tindumbovic1079 Thanks a lot! Exactly what I needed too.

[@RasikaBalagedara]

Great tutorial and instructions are absolutely perfect. Thank you 😊

[@thegreenwoodelf8014]

Why Nutribullet, WHY do you put bearings that end up rusting 🤔...::.just saying

[@davidmay268]

So you have to keep buying blades, forced obsolescence

[@thewholetruth4192]

each bearing costs close to 9 bucks! sounds like it is better to get a new replacement extractor blade or two-pack blade replacement units instead!

[@topherrho]

You don't HAVE to get stainless steel. Got two standard ball bearings for 5 bucks.

[@GT-elqt]

@@topherrho that's what "Nutribullet" said, too! 😂

[@a.ayanruoh4904]

Great video. Easy to follow step by step instructions. Thank you for posting.

[@farhorizons3901]

To get those bearings seated evenly and easily, try using a vice with the conduit spacers.

[@sandradurand2323]

Hey John, thank you for sharing this. I'm trying to unscrew the blades to the right/clockwise or backwards, but it is not happening. Do you have any suggestions? I have tried with one blade, and it worke, but the one that makes loud noises and leaks rusty water is not getting unscrewed. Thank you!

[@johnmeyer77]

A LOT of people have asked about this, and fortunately a lot of people who are smarter than I am have replied with some great suggestions. Just scroll down through the comments for this video and you'll find some great ideas. The biggest thing is to make sure you are really turning in the correct direction. If you have been trying BOTH directions, that is a bad thing (although rocking back and forth IS a legitimate way to loosen threads, as long as you don't put too much pressure in the wrong direction). Remember, to remove it you have to turn in the "wrong" direction. This means clockwise. "Righty Tighty" is incorrect. In this case it is "Righty Loosey".

[@jwwilliams]

My bearings were actually ok just needed a little wd40. smooth as butter now. I attempted to remove them but decided not to as I was starting to tear the thing up. The problem with mine was the threads on the dill that screws onto it that the motor turns to turn the blade were stripped. I put some jb weld in there and hopefully that will fix it. I'm going to go ahead and order another one and use the jerry rigged one at least until the new one comes in the mail. Thanks for the video. Good stuff.

[@ahcrx]

Hoping you can help..but my actual drive nut is free spinning and I have no idea of how to remove it

[@johnmeyer77]

That is strange. If the drive nut spins but the blades do not then it sounds like the blade shaft threads are stripped. I don't think you can fix that. You'll need to buy a new base assembly.

[@ahcrx]

@@johnmeyer77 no worries. Thanks for the advice

[@HumbertoArriagaRico]

Excelent video thanks a lot, in my case replacement bearings were only 4 Dollars not stainless. Greetings from Mexico!

[@billthompson4197]

I have 2 blade units, one for making smoothies which I have used every day for a couple years. The other one has ground many pounds of herbs for tinctures during the same time frame. Every time they seem to start acting up and making noise or getting hot , especially the one for grinding dry herbs, I work olive oil down into them from both sides. I figure I got my money's worth so I may just replace the herb grinder one.

[@Bull1the1Great]

thanks . it worked . i would also recommend to put some oil in bearings

[@madhavachendla7458]

Thanks for the video, please share where these bearings and other spares available

[@johnmeyer77]

I provided the link to the supplier in the video description.

[@mikescrowley]

Thank you for the video. At first I had decided it wasn't worth my time. Then after reading the comments talking about replacing with better bearings, I changed my mind. Was able to get a set of 5 stainless steel bearings for $8 off Amazon, with free shipping. Now my problem is that the rubber drive nut won't come off. Being a soft-ish rubber, it's hard to get a good grip. But it definitely does not come out as easily as yours did. Any tips?

[@johnmeyer77]

This is the most common question on this video and if you are willing to spend five minutes skimming through, looking for answers, you'll find something which matches the tools and skills you have. The key thing to remember is that it is "backwards" threads, so you loosen it by turning clockwise. So, it does not follow "righty-tighty, lefty-loosey".

[@mikescrowley]

@@johnmeyer77 sorry sir. There's over 400 comments on the video, I did read about 100 of them, most of what I saw mentioned the difficulty in getting the bearings out. Never saw anything about the drive nut. The reverse threading was easier to remember as thats the way the blades aren't cutting your hands... I even squirted a little wd40 into the screw but haven't been able to get it to budge. I'll scan through the comments some more. Thanks for putting together the video.

[@johnmeyer77]

@@mikescrowley Some of the ideas you'll find include: "Soaking in olive oil;" "I used two tongue and groove pliers to loosen it."' The way I did it? I put the blades inside the vise, but didn't tighten the vise. I then put something between the rubber drive nut ribs and turned that really hard, jerking a few times, while the blades pushed against the sides of the loose vise. You could try to grip the outside of the rubber with some channel lock pliers, but you risk damaging the rubber. The key thing is to support the blades in an open vice (don't tighten the vise) and then use something to drive the nut that won't hurt the rubber. As with anything that is stuck, heating and cooling can help; vibration can help; lubricating fluid can help; light tapping with a mallet onto the shaft (perpendicular to the rotation) can help.

[@Tal.10]

​@@mikescrowley were you able to release it?

[@mikescrowley]

@@Tal.10 yes I was. I used the method of putting the blades in a vise

[@pauldickinson5316]

If you have the Nutribullet 600 don't waste your time and money, you can buy the full screw on plastic housing with the blade from Nutribullet for £5.99. It obviously comes with new bearings, new blade and most importantly a new rubber seal on the blade side that stops the liquid from reaching your bearings. Even if you replace the bearings in your old one, you will need to replace the rubber seal on the blade side as this is the reason the bearings failed in the first place. Nice video John.

[@johnmeyer77]

Not sure why you are watching the video if you simply want to buy the new assembly. You are right: it costs about the same and is a lot simpler. However, for others who are reading this, the point of the video is to end up with something that has better bearings and therefore will run more smoothly and last longer.

[@pauldickinson5316]

@@johnmeyer77 Water kills bearings. I have already put 2rs stainless bearings in my Nutribullet about 10 years ago when the new assembly cost about £14.99. My point is liquid still gets past the seal near the blade and through to the bearings so if you are changing the bearings it makes sense to change that seal, although water would still find a way in. If you have been running a noisy leaky machine for too long you run the risk of spindle wear so even replacing the bearings and the seal won't stop liquid leaching through. The perfect habitat for bacteria, mould and fungus growth are dark, moist, warm places, even better with a source of saccharides. If liquid has found its way through then stop using it as you could be mixing black mould and/or bacteria with your food which isn't good for your health. I can understand spending money on decent bearings to prolong the life of the part but only if the overall part was equally robust and reliable in its application and now that its only £5.99 for the full part I don't think it's worth messing with new bearings, but that's just my opinion. I love the video, I love your voice (very calming), great job well done, make more videos and expect alternative points of view for people to consider. That's what the comments are for. Anyway I must go I'm putting a Rolls Royce engine in my old Alfa Romeo.🙏 namaskaram.

[@princethewondercat]

John is correct Nutribullet cheaped out on the bearings,

[@pieterhuman8049]

Great video, down to the bearing number. Many thanks.

[@lindavanzanten1340]

A thank you from Amsterdam. New bearings used today. Super tip thank you.

[@princethewondercat]

Hi good video,I took the bearngs out was ready to order the bearings only thing is the bearings cost as much as replacing the unit, here in the USA bearings cost around 6.99 + shipping on ebay a New Replacement Extractor Blade & Gasket,Compatible with NutriBullet NB-101B & 101 $8.14 , free shipping so it pays to get it all new I think

[@johnmeyer77]

It is tough to argue that the short-term economics are better just buying a replacement for the whole thing. On the other hand, the cheap bearings are likely to fail again pretty quickly. I recommend you go ahead and buy, instead of rebuild, but then do make a note of when you start using the replacement and see if it lasts more than 12-18 months. If it does, then you have made a wise decision.

[@princethewondercat]

@@johnmeyer77 agreed it will be an experiment. Geting 4 sets of bearings if as you mentioned hold up for longer than 1.5 years then it might have been worth it like replacing a bulb but nutribullet should have had a better design so the bearings did not fail. We will see either say it was a good video good explination

[@princethewondercat]

@@johnmeyer77 actually I ended up buying bearings 8 for $7. Going to replace & see how long they last. If the bearings go again I can replace them again with the 3 other sets lile a. Light bulb. Still not a good design. The motor is to strong for the bearings . guess that is why Nutri recommends not to use longer than a minute & let it rest. We will see, thanks for the video

[@bbull189]

Can I use stainless steel sealed bearings instead of rubber-sealed?

[@johnmeyer77]

As you will see if you read the video description these ARE stainless steel bearings. In the description above I also provided a link directly to the part I used so you can look at the other specifications for the bearings, including how they are sealed. Here is that link again: bearingsdirect.com/ball-bearings/miniature-ball-bearing-metric-sizes/600-series-larger-outer-size/stainless-steel-miniature-ball-bearings-600-series/s698-2rs-stainless-steel-miniature-ball-bearing-8-x-19-x-6-sealed

[@Whatsth3ruckus]

Are these the same size bearings that fit skateboard and inline skate wheels? If so, I may go all out and replace the bearings with ceramic bearings.

[@johnmeyer77]

@@Whatsth3ruckus As you can see, I provided the link to the bearings I used in my reply above as well as in the video description. I just did a quick check of skateboard bearing suppliers and it looks like those are 8x22x7 mm. These are 8x19x6. So based on my ten seconds of research, they are not the same.

[@SASCAT1972]

Do you mean “shielded” bearings vs “sealed”? For this application either type will be fine. It’s not a particularly demanding application for a bearing.

[@johnmeyer77]

@@SASCAT1972 You want sealed bearings. From a pump supply store: "Sealed Ball Bearings while quite similar to the shielded ball bearings in having covers over the balls offer a greater degree of protection because the “Shield” on the sealed ball bearing actually comes into contact with the inner race. This seal in contact with the inner race provides the highest degree of protection against dirt and moisture for a ball bearing." Given the fact that moisture does get into these bearings (as can be seen in the introduction of my video), you want all the help you can get in making sure that moisture doesn't destroy the bearing.

[@SphinxRacing]

Thanks for this video. I replaced the bearings, but it is leaking like a sieve from the bottom around the nut. The blades shaft went down into the bearing hole with no issues/resistance at all. I wonder if the old bearings damaged the shaft thereby causing the leak. Thoughts?

[@johnmeyer77]

It's tough to tell without photos. You can use the video to make sure you reinstalled all the gaskets and washers. Also, quite a few people ask about the washer that is under the second bearing. It is my fault for neglecting to highlight that washer. If that got damaged during the removal of the bottom bearing, it might be causing the problem. So, start by simply removing the dust cover and the blade, and then use the video to show you where all the washers should be installed and in what direction (remember, one of them has ridges and must be installed in the correct orientation). If everything looks OK, then it is probably the washer at the bottom of the second bearing which, unfortunately, means pulling both bearings to get at it and replace it.

[@SphinxRacing]

@@johnmeyer77 I bet your right. It didn't come out easily when I tried to pull on it, but it ought to be replaced.

[@petermeussen9503]

Thank you very much for sharing. I just successfully repaired my first blade. Less waist. Just repair!

[@PANZERFAUST90]

waste* lol But less waist is also good!

[@nadiaarbee9867]

Hi could you share how you removed the blade it's not coming off

[@elaineharris8101]

Hi John - I was about to buy a new part (blades base etc) until I saw your incredible clear step by step replacement tutorial which is fab thank you. May I ask - Do you think its worth changing the Rubber and Nylon washers whilst I'm in there? If it is please could you tell me the best to buy - I have purchased the SS bearings. Many thanks John really appreciate your tutorial.

[@johnmeyer77]

If the washers are not cracked, torn, or otherwise degraded, you can re-use them. It is generally better to have the perfect fit of the original than to have something that might be slightly different, but with brand-new material. Washers usually only become a problem when they crack or become really hard. I did not research these parts, so I cannot provide a part number or description. If you read through the other comments (which is getting to be a lot of reading) you will find a few people who did replace these. One person provided a part number, but I think he later posted again that the part wasn't quite the right fit.

[@elaineharris8101]

@@johnmeyer77 thanks John, appreciate your reply. Elaine :)

[@cynb.347]

I had a horrible noise also, but there was a piece of metal when i lifted the cup. It was like half a circle/ ring. Guessing it was 1/4 " size. Do you know what that could be? A Gasket?

[@johnmeyer77]

Probably the dust cover from the bearing.

[@Stikker021]

Thank you. I have a "Bennett Read" which looks exactly the same. Repaired and now works like a charm. 👍

[@johnmeyer77]

Thanks for the comment. I'm so glad you got it working again!

[@ynagpaul]

Very good description John. I wonder if you can suggest how to free up 3 sticky plastic tabs that start the machine when you press the jar on them. Because they are sticky, we need to exert lot of force for the jar to sit in. Any recommendation will be truly appreciated.

[@johnmeyer77]

I've had that same problem. You can pull the motor out and try to get them from the underside, but when I pulled the screws and looked inside the case, it was clear this would take a long time. I chose instead to spray a little contact cleaner down in there. This is something you can buy at any electronics store or online: amazon.com/CRC-05103-Electronic-Cleaner-11/dp/B000BXOGNI/ You spray it on and then, before it evaporates, you press the switch up and down many times (with the unit unplugged, of course). This was enough to clean up my little bit of gunk. You should first get out any visible gunk using a toothpick or other narrow implement to try to get into the crevice between the switches and the body.

[@jonathanbuoni5157]

Thanks for the video. I can't unscrew the black rubber component, no matter what direction I try. Could it be stuck from damage? I also can't rotate the blade by hand, which is how I first noticed that the blade had stopped working properly (in addition to the noise). Thanks

[@johnmeyer77]

If the blade won't rotate, the bearings are probably frozen, so replacing them will fix that. Unscrewing the black rubber driver has been reported by lots of people. Scan through the comments here for suggestions. Remember that it unscrews BACKWARDS, so turn clockwise to remove.

[@coolvyaktianandvyakti6755]

Thank you for putting out good detailed instructions.

[@johnmeyer77]

You are welcome!

[@MaryGuariglia]

Great info, well demonstrated! Would it be the same for the NutriBullet RX he huge one? I've been grinding metal! I have used mine heavy am shakes with frozen fruits and has been perfect for 6 years! But now, OMGosh gotta fix or get new one! TY

[@johnmeyer77]

I am not an expert in the Nutibullet line, so I don't know if the bearing would be the same size.