Octoprint Multicolor 3d Prints including Ender 3 V2

[@jamescharest6859]

Just wanted to thank you for the multicolor video. I bought my first 3D printer, a ANYCUBE Kobra and was disappointed to learn it did not have the ability to pause for color changes. So I bought a used Raspeberry Pi, got Octoprint working and followed your instructions on this video. I am now functional for color changes. Thanks a bunch. Great video. Your presentation makes it very easy to follow you.

[@toddaustin68]

I am in eternal gratitude for this tutorial. I've got an Ender 3 V2 and it's got some apparent limitations. I'd almost given up on this function, but now, thanks to you, I am able to pause my print to insert magnets or change filament no problem. Thanks for the clear talk and your enthusiasm!

[@toddaustin68]

My joy was short lived....It functioned the first time, and never again since. It stops and starts when expected, but is not extruding afterwards. I love this hobby. ;P

[@webcompanion]

@@toddaustin68 I have the same problem. The pause works great. But when I restart, the Ender 5 Plus I have seems to only want to retract the filament... it won't extrude anymore. Any ideas anyone??

[@webcompanion]

BTW I am using OctoPi for my prints, I added the pause / resume scripts into OctoPi.

[@HATipsByLarry]

Thank you so much for this. Was trying to figure out a way to do 2 color prints when i saw this post. Works great. Thanks again for all you do for us :)

[@christianwilson6480]

I used your script in the Octoprint's multi color plugin... added M25 pause command just before the first endif statement. Works great for the Ender 3 S1 Pro.

[@Ramen_Printed_Props]

I had issues with the supplied code where the extruder stopped extruding after resuming. I had to add an extra M83 command after resetting the feed rate to resolve it. Hopefully that helps someone who might run into the same issue.

[@paololazzareschi5077]

Hi Dr. Vax. Thank you very much for your info. You are the only giving info on 2 filament printing with Octo. And it works fine !!! Thanks again for your Help! You are very clever doing explanation.

[@Dwz800]

After some real headaches trying Pause at Height and Filament Change in Cura, finally some help. Great video! Especialy because you don't just learn a trick, but also hightlight the problems. It helps to understand my printer better.

[@frogmandave1]

Another great video Doc! Very informative. Creality needs to get that M117 code sorted out pronto.

[@WhatIsMyNameDamnIt]

this is gold. Thank you.

[@jraiello]

I have and Ender 3 V2 as well, but with Jyers firmware. Does this support M600 and/or make this process easier?

[@gdesign123]

So much better than the CHEP video which has lots of issues. Nice shirt :) So glad you do videos.

[@Eightbitswide]

Did this with my Ender 3 Pro, running Marlin 2.x firmware. Worked! One suggestion to the code would be to drop back to the bed and run a wipe strip next to the first one to get the head primed. May work on this myself in your posted code soon. Will require some more research.

[@kenlipper874]

{% if pause_position.x is not none %} ; relative extruder M83 G1 X0.1 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to start position G1 X0.1 Y200.0 Z0.3 F1500.0 E15 ; Draw the first line G1 X0.4 Y200.0 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to side a little G1 X0.4 Y20 Z0.3 F1500.0 E30 ; Draw the second line G1 E-4 ; retract a little ; absolute E M82 ; absolute XYZ G90 ; reset E G92 E{{ pause_position.e }} ; move back to pause position XYZ G1 X{{ pause_position.x }} Y{{ pause_position.y }} Z{{ pause_position.z }} F4500 ; reset to feed rate before pause if available {% if pause_position.f is not none %}G1 F{{ pause_position.f }}{% endif %} {% endif %}

[@morturn]

Well, that was really good thank you. I could already do this via Cura, but your method is much better. Big thank you.

[@jpgquintana]

Just wanted to let you know that this technique is working very well for me. I've upgraded Marlin on my Ender 3 and so I will try the filament change feature in the slicer as well once I am done with my current project. One thing that i found helpful was that when I change the filament, i get a little blobbing on the print since i am feeding the filament into the hot end in by hand. I worked around this by turning the Draft Shield on in CURA. This allows the filament to purge before going to the print.

[@PabzRoz]

Man thank god I read this comment. I was curious how I would be able to still have a clean transition after changing filaments without blobbing or anything like that. A draft shield is perfect since it's always the first thing printed every layer! Thanks!

[@jamescharest6859]

@@PabzRoz Yeah thanks for that info. That Draft Shield completely stopped the blobs.

[@thefeet]

It works, however Octoprint pops up an ugly warning in the top right saying "M0 is a blocked command". Should I be removing M0 from the list of blocked commands in Octoprint then???

[@oleurgast730]

Great Video. You can use the same method not only for colour change after layer change, but also inside a layer to embed text or logos inside the first two or three layers. I used Prusa Slicer to do so; also my printers support M600. I describe it with M600; you can replace it by your script: - Edit printer settings, increase number of extruders. Assign different colours for the extruders. - Set custom toolchange gcode to "g0 x0 y0" "m600" - make a stl with your text or logo; it should use 0.4 or 0.6 mm hight (If you print with 0.2mm layer hight). - add this stl as a modifier to your object with 0% infill, 0 top- and bottom lines and 0 perimeters. This will "Cut Out" your text/logo from your object. -Add the stl again, this time as a normal object - place it to the same position you made the cutout. - assign one virtual extruder to your main object, the other to your text/logo - in print settings: set number of brim lines to number of extruders. Prusa Slicer will automaticly do one loop per extruder - so you will get one priming line after every filament change. Hight of brim should go up to the last layer with a filament change. -deactivate wipe tower in print settings (on certain printers like mk3s Prusa Slicer automaticly activates it when you set multiple extruders) I did some nice prints this way: New y-frontplate for my Prusa Mini with "original Prusa Mini" embedded in orange letters. Looks perfect, much nicer then the embossed text of the original part. Some futher improvements: use PEI powder coated spring steel. Use Hilbert curve on bottom layer. Generate two gcodes, A.gcode with 1 perimeter, B.gcode with 3 or 4 perimeters. Use Notepad++ to delete everything after First layer in A.gcode and insert everything after first layer from B.gcode. The text/logo will look much nicer with only one brim on the surface, but will be staticly strong as all other layers have more perimeters. Also, as PET-G tends to stringing, you might use PLA for Text/Logos. If the main body is printed in PET-G, assign it to the last virtual extruder. So the non stringing PLA is printed first and any strings from the PET-G are above the PLA, not visable from the outside. You might also play with reducing nozzle temperature and speed in First layer to get no stringing and perfect results (and of course, clean the bed before printing - I ruined an elsewise nearly perfect print with leftovers from a previous print...)

[@antoniovarovic4229]

you do that with z hop feature right? If I want multicolor in same layer.

[@oleurgast730]

@@antoniovarovic4229 Yes, I use the standard settings for the Prusa mk3s, so z-hop is on. There might be a problem with printers using only one z-axis like Ender3, as z-hop is not optimal there. I modified my Ender 3's to dual z anyway (and to direct extruders), so I forgot to mention it. So yes, for multicolour in one layer, z-hop should be activated, so dual z is strictly recommended. Also personaly I prefer direct extruders for more easy filament change, but thats optional.

[@josephcorda3820]

Thanks... this has worked great every time I've used it, and its flexible as I can control the gcode

[@fredflintstone4002]

eeeeeeeYabbaDabbaDoooo! Thank you!

[@MrEugenrs]

Thank you for this video, really helped me a lot !

[@morseapple556]

Thank you for this video, been trying to figure out why the pause Gcode function of my PrusaSlicer wasn't working and the coding you provided has probably save me hours if not days of trouble shooting/ trial and error prints.

[@PauloCamacho72]

You are the man... huge thanks from Portugal

[@Deathbysnusnu125]

This was really helpful! Thanks! Liked favorited and subscribed!

[@Xilindroo]

Dr Vax, is it possible to create a second sacrifice line before return to the model and continue to print? I notice that you had some filament in your nozzle wen return the print.

[@MakeWithTech]

You would have to have a tower the same height as your print that you continue to print all of the time.

[@BeardedTechGuy]

thank you!!!

[@didoradkov]

On my Ender 3 v2, 4.2.2 board, GD edition, the pause script works, except unlocking the extruder. Any suggestions?

[@DonBarthel]

This didn't quite work on my Anycubic Mega S. After filament change my extruder wouldn't extrude any filament. But I found elsewhere the solution. In the 'Before...Resumed' script, just before the line "; move back to pause position XYZ", insert an M83 line into the script like this: ; WARNING!!! - use M83 or M82(exruder absolute mode) according what your slicer generates M83 ; extruder relative mode M83 worked on my combination of Anycubic and PrusaSlicer.

[@MakeWithTech]

Thanks for sharing.

[@gamesguitarsandcars]

That's interesting. I too am using the Anycubic Mega S but the code worked fine for me though I was using Cura to slice not PrusaSlicer.

[@gdesign123]

Do you have a video using the ender 5 plus and octoprint. I have had issues getting it to switch colors and start up again.

[@woodwaker1]

Really good information. I have been using PrusaSlicer on my Ender 5 which easily supports color change at layers, but am in the process of switching to Simplfy3D which is more difficult to do. I'll give this a try.

[@davewilliams8050]

I am trying to do a simple multi color print using Professional Firmware (9/23 version) on my Ender 3 V2 stock printer with Cura 5.4.0's Pause at height post processing script. When I attempt to send the M0 command through OctoPrint it displays this message: Not sending M0 to printer, it's configured as a blocked command. The printer does not relocate the print head. If I change the filament and try to continue, I get a blob of filament when the print resumes. I tried changing the Cura script to use the Repetier/OctoPrint method but that did the same thing - the printhead did not move out of the way. I guess I'll try to figure out the old way to do this with just an SD card.

[@studiosezer]

my ender 3 v3-se also works with adding m83(relative e) to resume code. with m82(absolute e) not extruded while continueing.

[@CordineX]

@DRVAX - great stuff!!. So many Ender 3 V2 users are complaining that they can't print multi color via SD (w/o octoprint) ... Can you advise or better still show a video - you'll be the first one.:)

[@MakeWithTech]

Let me look into it. Unfortunately the standard firmware does not support M600. One alternative is to use a custom marlin build.

[@CordineX]

@@MakeWithTech thanks so much. I wish I knew how to generate marlin firmware but I'm not a software guy. Maybe CHEP can help... Frustrating that creality sell v2 without it.

[@ashokmoghe8035]

Your videos are always in depth and well-articulated. However, like many have commented below, unfortunately the technique doesn't work for Ender 3 V2 although it might have worked for you somehow. Neither M18 or M84 commands are able to disable motors individually. Similarly, M17 isn't able to engage axis individually. So unfortunately this video technique doesn't work on Ender 3 V2. Nonetheless, thanks for showing some advance features of Octoprint.

[@turkito210]

Thank you from Argentina!. In my case the M84 E command did not work as it does not unlock the stepper individually. I only work the M84 unlocking all the steppers. Do you know if there is another command to unlock only the extruder? My printer has Marlin 2.0.7.2 and it works perfect. It may be necessary to enable some function.

[@itzikovadia851]

The explaination.is excellent but it is nit working on my ender 3 . After the pause its is not enter to the octoprint pause script

[@gamesguitarsandcars]

Thanks for the video! Really helped me out.

[@juliannichols3917]

I am on the stock Ender3v2 v1.0.1 firmware and the steppers are locked for ~120 seconds but then unlock. Also during that time, the extruder is not unlocked. I have only been at this for a week so updating the firmware is not yet in my wheelhouse. After canceling the print I tried sending the M17 and M18 gcodes to the printer and noticed that even if I specified an axis or the extruder 'M17 X' it would lock all steppers. Same with the 'M84 E' would unlock all of the steppers. Back to the script when it runs the return for the M84 E would return 'echo: busy: processing'. Great video and the explanations helped demystify 'GCode' and set me on this learning path.

[@MakeWithTech]

Yes. Each version of the firmware reacts a bit differently. I believe it may be related to the optional timeout parameters on the M18 command. While the documentation states "If a timeout is given with S, this command just sets the stepper inactivity timeout. If no steppers are specified, this command disables all steppers immediately." I have also noticed my stepper motors do not unlock immediately. In fact Creality recently shipped version this version "Ender-3 V2_32bit_ 2.0.1V Latest Firmware_0814.rar" which I have installed but not tested. The only way to get the exact documentation result is probably to install the native Marlin V2.

[@itzikovadia851]

Why I need the octoprint script and instead using only cura script stop. On layer number?.

[@garrettstefancin6140]

Hey, I am having the issue that after I change the filament and resume the print... the nozzle is digging into the printed object upon restart, I tried doing a quick fix by just increasing the z offset but it didn’t change the zheight at all. Not sure why. It’s pretty easy when you break down your video just copy and paste the settings into Octo, and the layer pause in cura

[@teej84]

I’m also having this issue! It smashes into the print on resume!

[@quantumskidoosh8244]

@@teej84 Does your gantry drop while changing filament? I had this happen the first go around, tightened everything up (eccentric nuts and all screws) and works okay-ish. If I don't get to it immediately it seems like the "Hold" on the Z axis ends after 2 mins or so. Any additional recommendations would be appreciated! Thank you DrVax for all your content!

[@M1GarandNut]

Again, love your videos and you present stuff in a very calm and enjoyable/understandable way. Thank you for that! Quick question, where do you find the Octoprint Plugin for Cura? I can not find any reference to it on the cura website. Thanks again!

[@nikolasfrankmann8157]

Hey, if you are in cura there is Marketplace at the top right if you click on it you should find it relatively high up in the list of suggested community plugins

[@Navplex]

Hi Doc, are you manually priming the new colour before pressing resume?

[@thefeet]

yes he did say that you should "manually" purge the printhead/nozzle until you see the new color coming out. :)

[@kenlipper874]

I know this is an old video, but I'm having trouble getting the script to work properly. 1) I'd like it to automatically retract 300mm of filament prior to the pause and it's not happening. 2) The extruder motor remains active, after the pause, even though there's an M84 E command. Below is the script: {% if pause_position.x is not none %} ; relative XYZ G91 ; relative E M83 ; retract filament, move Z slightly upwards G1 Z+10 G1 E-300 F4500 ; absolute E M82 ; absolute XYZ G90 ; move to a safe rest position, adjust as necessary G1 X0 Y0 ; make sure position steppers stay powered on to lock position M17 Z X Y ; unlock the extruder stepper so we can use the dial M84 E {% endif %}

[@TheRoadRoamer]

Dr. V... G1 Z10 moves the head TO Z = 10mm, doesn't it? That should be Z+10 go to up 10mm from whatever Z you are at? I could be wrong though.

[@howardmandel7930]

Great video as always.. just one question. I am running an optical sensor for filament runout or jams which is wired through my Ender 3 v2 board. Will this create any conflicts with this setup? Thanks again for a great video!

[@jean-francoisrobin6098]

Thank you for the info. My extruder will not disengage after the M84 E command. I tested it in the terminal, I can only disengage all steppers with M84. I can also only reengage all steppers with M17. Commands for a specific stepper don't seem to be interpreted. I have upgraded my firmware to the latest version and I have the latest version of Octopi. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated! Thanks.

[@vgadoury]

I think I have the same issue (with stock firmware), but from what I've found online it seems it might be a limitation of the board: www.gitmemory.com/issue/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/19153/680683876

[@douglasdweck6804]

Will the bed remain heated using your method? As there is no command given anywhere (neither in Cura or Octoprint GCode) I don't see any reason why the bed wouldn't retain the temperature that it was printing at while the system is paused waiting for the filament change/resume. I have a current issue using M600 where the bed will cool down, so if I am not standing by to change filament/resume my print, the object I am printing will lose its adhesion to the bed. When I resume my print, even if I reheat the bed again, the printing becomes a mess as the object starts moving on the bed. Using Ender 6.

[@DerMega]

It should keep the beds status. For me it does. Hope this late answer will help you.

[@Cnddecor]

i use prusa slic3r, i set this up in my octoprint, when i load a file and tell octoprint what layer it is i get this error. injecting "GCODE failed. Replaced 0 out of 1 needed." any help would be great thank you

[@robertwilliams-day320]

I’ve tried this, but on restarting the Z dosnt go back down so it’s printing in mid air

[@peterashford7364]

Hi, thanks for the video, it’s really helpful. Do you think it would be better to replace the screen with the older LCD and install the standard Ender 3 firmware ? I’m having to replace my board with a 2.7 due to level shifting so I thought I could do this at the same time.

[@howardmandel7930]

I found that the M0 command was blocked on my Octoprint when I attempted to use this method. I unblocked the M0. It works now. Is that ok? I do find if I take more that 90 seconds to do the physical filament change the stepper motors release and the z axis drops.

[@MakeWithTech]

The stepper motor timeout is dependent on your firmware. You might be able to put a G code command in your start code to override this timeout depending on your printer. Check out these commands: marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M018.html

[@howardmandel7930]

@@MakeWithTech can I put M18 S9999 in the before pause gcode line in the Pause at Height script you featured in this video, to extend my time to change filament without worrying about the stepper motors releasing? Thanks for your response.

[@debbiebebington9803]

Hi I have the ender 3 pro. when I try to pause at hight my printer will do all the right things but it will only pause for about 30 seconds then it will resume Regards Debbie

[@nikkihargrove7952]

If you happen to move the x axis when changing filament like I did, is there an exact way to move it back to that point

[@DaveRune]

I believe it does this already: @12:35

[@nikkihargrove7952]

@@DaveRune mine didn’t go back. It just banged against the print and started running the filament where it was trying to print.

[@DaveRune]

@@nikkihargrove7952 I guess it got knocked downwards meaning the direct path was unfortunately through the model? May be a good move to raise it up somewhat before resuming.

[@brianwild4640]

add m300 then you will get a beep also if you add m300 for resume the post scrip will work and you can change the filament with the script just fill in the filament info also set the code from marlin to BQ (M25)

[@guidomersmann9744]

M18 S9999 in pause script will keep the steppers in power mode, you you are unable to move the print head by accident.

[@howardmandel7930]

Where would I put the M18 S9999 in the script?

[@guidomersmann9744]

Just inside the start code is fine. If you use a plug-in for filament change, there is usually a field for custom code. That’s fine,too. Or on demand using a terminal. Just make sure it gets used before the actual pause command. Terminal use can of course be done after pause.The option is just temporary and will reset on the printers power down.

[@howardmandel7930]

@@guidomersmann9744 thanks for getting back to me. Can I put it in the post processing...Pause at height Gcode Before Pause in Cura? And then do I need to put a gcode in the resume to unlock the steppers? Thanks for your help.

[@guidomersmann9744]

It should work in there, yes. You don’t need to „unlock“ the steppers at all. This „locking“ just means the motor gets powered from the driver and cannot be moved by hand. By default the printer firmware releases the steppers in pause mode after 90 seconds or so. You hear a mechanical sound, when they loose power. Now.each touch may move the tool head and will cause a layer shift. The command increases the time from pausing a print to releasing the steppers by a gigant amount of seconds, so you do not need to hurry. Even an hour later the filament can be changed without a risk, as the steppers are still engaged and holding the position by force.

[@howardmandel7930]

@@guidomersmann9744 thank you so much Guido. This all makes sense to me now. I am a relative newbie and value the guidance of experts like you. Thanks again.

[@bluedevil678]

Good video! What if your mid-print can you manually pause it and add filament on an Ender 3 V2?

[@MakeWithTech]

That is possible.

[@kevinmiller283]

Thanks for the video! Where can I cut and paste the gcode shown? I have been doing multi color prints on my MP mini using the M600 gcode. However, I purchased a Anycubic Mega X and there is no gcode supported pause. So, I am making the leap to Octoprint. Thanks again.

[@thefeet]

both sections of code (pause & resume) are in the description

[@michaellim7542]

Where do i need to place the 2 piece of gcode?

[@nathaliegrandemange4807]

i use MULTIGCODE software on my ender 3 v2 this software cut the g code on several part so you have all the time to change the filament because you are several g code just change the filament before confirm the end of print the only problem is to purge the filament manually and the z not up to help you i don't know how to enter command in note pad to automate extract filament z position and the purge. I use cura. this solution no need modification of your printer. Sorry for the english i'm french

[@dannyperkins4220]

I've been watching your video on how to set up octoprint and i was wondering when you are going to answer my questions. Do you ever go back and look to see if there are any comments on your previous videos. By the way not everyone has a "MAC".

[@MakeWithTech]

@Danny Perkins Sorry I did not answer your question. Sometimes I miss some of the questions within my comments. I will go back and look for it. You are absolutely correct not everyone has a Mac and where possible I try and address the needs of both Mac and PC users. In addition to leaving comments here, there is an active DrVax forum community where my video viewers answer each other's questions. As the community grows this helps provide a wider range of answers for community members. You can access the free DrVax community forum at: forum.drvax.com

[@Chucka1463]

Good point. Macs are less than 10% of the desktop computer population.

[@DaveRune]

If you have the 4.2.2 board this doesnt work! :( www.gitmemory.com/issue/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/19153/680683876 The G-code runs but you cant disable the extruder alone. It's either all steppers on, or all steppers off. Meaning you either have a hard time swapping filament but you dont lose position or you easily swap filament and also easily lose position.

[@gatitofroilan]

Hi, i have probed this with Bltouch installation (made with instructions of another yours video) and dont work, can be that with bltouch dont work this instructions. :( thanks

[@MakeWithTech]

This approach will depend on the firmware you use.

[@dennisgleason2591]

I have found a way to change filament on the 3v2 using the "Pause at height" post processing command on Cura 4.7.1. I selected the BQ (M25) method. It only works correctly if you add something to the "G-Code Before Pause" box. I added a M300 command so it would beep. Note: I needed to make one change to the g-code to prevent a blob of filament once it restarted printing. Resulting G-code shown below. I commented out the final G1 F1500 E10 line and the print came out great! ;script: PauseAtHeight.py ;current layer: 3 M83 ; switch to relative E values for any needed retraction G1 F1500 E-10 G1 F300 Z1.8 ; move up a millimeter to get out of the way G1 F9000 X190 Y190 G1 F300 Z15 ; too close to bed--move to at least 15mm M104 S0 ; standby temperature M300 M25 ; Do the actual pause M109 S200 ; resume temperature G1 F1500 E10 G1 F1500 E-10 G1 F300 Z1.8 G1 F9000 X122.478 Y111.115 G1 F300 Z0.8 ; move back down to resume height ;G1 F1500 E10 -- This is the line I had to comment out. Else I got a 10mm blob of filament….. G1 F1500 ; restore extrusion feedrate M82 ; switch back to absolute E values G92 E338.46292 ;LAYER:3

[@Dadtheimpaler]

The blob's been driving me crazy, so thanks for this - gonna try it soon. I actually managed a print without a blob once by not feeding the 2nd color all the way to the extruder, but that seemed awfully imprecise. I've also wondered if it might not be possible to have it extrude a purge line after the pause, just like it does at the beginning of a print. It occurred to me that you wouldn't want it to do that on the far left like it does at the beginning of the print, as that could knock over your print if it's a tall one, but maybe a line at the very back of the bed?

[@TheOracle1994]

Thank you very much!

[@TheRealDoubleT]

Doc, excellent video! My question to you is: how can I print multi colors on the same layer with the Ender 3 V2?

[@itzikovadia851]

The principle is to sperate each color to a stand alone file of course the you have to keep.on the right location on the bed

[@WoutScheper]

Awesome video, btw you look like that indian billionaire from f1

[@meramos69]

Thank you, very usefull .

[@Monopolyman456]

Your amazing. And go Cubs

[@yoghoo7889]

Nice video. But why not compile your own firmware and add the M600 option? Or at least mention the fact that this is also a possibility? Seems the board is already included in the marlin 2.0-bugfix tree.

[@oleurgast730]

In many printers this is the prefered option. But does not help on Ender 3 v2 or printers with MKS-Touchscreen. They simply show no message on the screen and therefore you can not confirm change and continue print, even with m600 activated in firmware... This is the reason I prefer Bigtreetech Displays - they support massages in touch mode. Also some versions support dual mode with 12864 emulation, whats the best way to get full control of the printer in my opinion. Actually the Octoprint solution is mostly a workaround for missing possibility of the Ender3 to confirm printer can continue... Actually, If you have a free IO-port, you can use gcode for wait for IO going Low instead of pause command and ad a push button to that IO. A little lees expansive...

[@Ryxxi_makes]

Ty !

[@mertlemeister]

Love your videos. :)

[@noverman]

Would this work for a CR-6se?

[@MakeWithTech]

It should work with any FDM printer that supports the pause command.

[@noverman]

@@MakeWithTech Alright I have an print that I just might try it on then. Thank you for replying and the video.

[@CRCinAU]

I've been recently introduced to your videos and they've got some good content... This script to do filament change is good - but damn, its an ugly hack. At the risk of being accused of plugging my own firmware - I build the options in to allow the use of M600 on the Ender 3 V2 - which makes this a LOT easier - and in theory, OctoPrint should even prompt you for a filament change. The firmware is at marlin.crc.id.au/ - updated from the bugfix-2.0.x branch of Marlin every day - so its always current.

[@HATipsByLarry]

I installed the firmware you compiled for the ender 3 v2 stock on my printer and it does pause the print at the correct layer and moves the print head and unloads the filament but there is no way to tell it to continue either with the screen or Octoprint. Unless you know of a way to get it to continue DrVax's "ugly hack" is the only way to do 2 color prints on a Ender 3 V2

[@CRCinAU]

@@HATipsByLarry the print should pause and you should be able to press resume on the screen.

[@HATipsByLarry]

@@CRCinAU I agree I should be able to but when i press resume nothing happens

[@MakeWithTech]

@Steven Haigh Interesting service at a fair price that I did not know about. Thanks for sharing with my viewers. I will do some testing and consider featuring your site in a video about custom Marlin builds. If you want a real challenge. The ANET ET4/ET5 users would love to have a marlin build for their printers. Feel free to let people know at forum.drvax.com about your builds. The folks on the DrVax discussion group will likely find your builds useful and will provide you with feedback.

[@HATipsByLarry]

@@CRCinAU Ok I have an update on this couldn't find a way to start the print after using the M600 command through octoprint but even though nothing shows up on the screen of the printer if you depress the scroll wheel button after a few seconds the print will beep then after the beeps wait a few seconds more then depress the button a second time it will load the filament and then continue the print.

[@henrysscrollsawworks6917]

Can you make cane handle's o this and would it be strong enough

[@jeroen9424]

I really like how you explain everything you do, my only comment is that you speak a little slow. I know I can fix it with the speed settings, but other people might be put off and not use the same settings.

[@the_DOS]

True that everyone is different. I put all the videos on 2x so I like to listen to videos at a much faster rate.

[@Outpush1]

Your a gift DrVax and the 3d world does not deserve you :(

[@DonBarthel]

I used this tutorial to print this square with a different color scale: ibb.co/w0QLN9m

[@barrywingler418]

get to the point already, geez you been lip flapping forever

[@MakeWithTech]

@Barry Wingler Sorry my videos do not work for you. I go slow and repeat material as this teaching style works for many of my viewers. I do appreciate your comment but I am going to continue making videos in this style.