OEM VS EBAY - Why Would I Waste My Money?

The topic on hand today is the cost of OEM clutch pads vs Generic clutch pads found on eBay. I burned out the original clutch on my 2023 Honda CB125F aftet ~7000 kilometres and replaced them with a $35 set of generic clutch pads, which, now the bike has done ~13,500 kilometres, have lasted almost as long and do not yet need replacing, so I have already proven that they last equally as long on my bike, with my style of riding.
I needed to order some new parts to repair some crash damage on the bike, so I thought it was a good idea to order some new clutch pads while I was there, but, looking at the price, mistakenly only ordered one of each clutch pads (inner and outer) instead of two. So, with an incomplete set of clutch pads, I worked out what a complete clutch kit OEM from Honda would cost and compared that in cost/worth to how many kits I could buy for the same money from eBay.

[@FCorneil]

I believe someone in the UK had 80.000 miles and counting on his carbureted CB125F without any major repairs except the usual wear and tear. Hopefully by the time you need a new piston and cylinder your gearbox will still have some life left in it and hopefully around that time there will finally be a big bore kit with accompanying ECU mod for the CB125F. I would chip in LOL.

[@tnoisette1419]

Difference between 3 inner plates and the big $ outer clutch plate is mostly likely about clutch 'feel' at the initial friction point as you release the lever. I would only use the cheap ones in the future as you have proven the dimensions are all the same.

[@NicksBikes]

The generic clutch plates "feel" just as good as the OEM ones, there's no perceivable difference in the bite of the clutch

[@theaustralianconundrum]

One thing I did find when I bought my new 2022 CB125F was that the clutch wasn't adjusted correctly from the factory OR by dealer pre delivery! Every bike with a cable operated clutch is adjusted the same for correct take up and bite. The video on KZbin is called 60 Second Clutch Adjustment - Tutorial The Channel is Moto Medic. I rode my 125F for at least 3 rides before wondering why the clutch was slipping and had almost no take up or bite until the very end of lever travel..... Watch the video and see and feel the difference once you have done this.

[@NicksBikes]

I actually incorrectly adjusted the clutch at first when I replaced the pads. I did a video on it

[@NicksBikes]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/fJ6laWCjqqp-rq8

[@theaustralianconundrum]

@ Oh dear?

[@NicksBikes]

@@theaustralianconundrum Easy enough to do, easy enough to fix

[@theaustralianconundrum]

@ It is however many people are riding around with a vague take up point and wonder why they have issues.

[@wixee123]

Gotta be a typo Nick, 😜 😂.. I couldn’t believe myself when I researched the spares cost for most.. Anyway,, Just a suggestion, maybe try a heavy duty set of springs for your clutch.. This may help the clutch wear better.. or try a new OEM set as well.. cheers

[@NicksBikes]

@@wixee123 I wouldn't want to make the clutch pull any heavier with heavy duty springs but I doubt the original springs will be worn out in the distance the bike has done

[@wixee123]

@ well..??? You have already went through a set of chain and sprocket and a clutch..? and You are loading this bike up constantly at the harder end of the scale.. You’d be surprised on how much this would help compensate.. if not change the springs out to OEM.. Just saying…

[@NicksBikes]

@@wixee123 Got a link for compatible heavy duty springs?

[@NicksBikes]

@@wixee123 Those clutch springs cost more than the clutch kit I bought. I don't think I'm going to do it this time, but maybe the third time around?

[@wixee123]

@@NicksBikes I’d probably measure up and try to cross reference with a high performance type of spring designed for a trail bike as they are really abused at times.. clutch won’t feel any different from normal on the pull.. if it is significantly harder a small extension on the pivot arm helps to reduce the issue.. but what would I know 😝

[@FCorneil]

Have you ever considered riding the bike 10% less hard? Perhaps it could make much more than 10% difference in how long certain parts last :)

[@NicksBikes]

🤣🤣🤣 LOL NO

[@FCorneil]

@@NicksBikes I'll start setting money aside to chip in for a rebuild then :)

[@FCorneil]

Perhaps a CB300R engine can be made to fit LOL. That would be a hoot on those narrow tires. It would take you a minute to leave the driveway, burning rubber unintentionally :)

[@NicksBikes]

@@FCorneil YIKES

[@FCorneil]

@@NicksBikes Look up the video "Crazy engine swapped Honda Grom finally working - KTM EXC300 2 stroke replaces the 125cc 4 stroke" they ride it at 14 minutes into the video.

[@FCorneil]

I assume that under gentle riding the clutch would last a multitude of the 7000km. I know you ride it hard but I am wondering which aspect of the hard riding causes this rapid wear. Is it the being close to the rev limiter for several minutes in third gear, or is it hard acceleration in first gear, or is the manner (fiercely?) in which you release the clutch lever when changing gears, or a combination of the above or something else? 7000km seems pretty extreme. Or is it a weak clutch on this bike? I mean the clutch of for instance a dual sport like the CRF300l ridden in the dirt in low gears must take quite a pounding but I've never heard it being worn so fast. I did take my 1987 Toyota Celica 2.0GT with 200.000 kilometers on a motocross track once :) and the clutch only lasted a minute or two but it probably was close to being worn at that mileage. The car had to limp home from there :) Had the clutch replaced by a mechanic and two weeks later a friend of mine crashed it into a tree...