Upgraded Yixiang DIY Kit V2 with new DC Breaker and Fire Extinguisher. But no QC?

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

Yixiang will make the following changes: - replacing the cables again with flexible busbars - supply additional screws for the PCBs while paying attention to the insulation of the tracks - paying greater attention to the BMS wiring connectors - overlong circuit breaker scews: apparently these are the original ones coming with the breaker - replacing screen mounting option with smaller brackets like in V1 of their box if still available (more a JKBMS thing) - about the function of the circuit breaker, I will do more testing and provide an additional short video if necessary

[@audiestri8424]

hello Andy and when do you think will possible to buy upgraded version?

[@ChrisEpler]

In my excitement to order my case/cells last night I didn't realize V2 was a different link..... *DOH* Seems like there are few things done better on the V1, should I be concerned? *buyers remorse*

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

@ChrisEpler ask them to sending the new busbars instead the cables. It all depends... If you are regularly pushing 200A through this battery, I would consider upgrading the cables. If you have moderate currents ~100A it will be fine as it is.

[@ChrisEpler]

@@OffGridGarageAustralia I think I'll be receiving v1, that used the bus bars right? Just the breaker is crap ya? Will probably see about working in a class-T fuse in there somewhere then... I'll likely only be using it with a 3kw all-in-one for now until I consider moving up to a split-phase one later maybe but I only have 800w of panels (right now) so my growth beyond 3kw is limited realistically....wife doesn't want anything on the roof :(

[@jeeastee]

So maybe replacing the breaker for a 125 amp version is an idea?

[@benmorrison9004]

Yes, Andy 2 absolutely needs to test those fire extinguishers 🔥🔥🔥

[@H8T3R]

We need to test those fire extinguishers.

[@wolfgangpreier9160]

With 250A @ 21 mm²? You may try this. I do not. I know what happens.

[@H8T3R]

​ @wolfgangpreier9160 I doubt Andy is going to sacrifice his case for that experiment. Aerosol extinguisher is not permanently glued or screwed to case. I suppose all interested would like to see how does this extinguisher handles lifepo4 failure and potential hydrogen burn of electrolyte. F ool

[@H8T3R]

@wolfgangpreier9160 I doubt Andy is going to sacrifice his case for that experiment. Aerosol extinguisher is not permanently glued or screwed to case. I suppose all interested would like to see how does this extinguisher handles lifepo4 failure and potential hydrogen burn of electrolyte.

[@PhilippeCJR]

@@H8T3R Maus Stixx Pro

[@rulexi]

Andy, great analysis and greetings from Arizona. I used a thermal camera to check the operation temperatures of the front section with two of the previous version kits. I was a bit alarmed of the temperature in the front compartment (and breaker) with an ambient temperature of around 40C. Perhaps when you do the load test on these check the front area with a thermal camera. Also, if you are planning on stacking the boxes permanently, are you going to install the lids on the bottom units for additional cooling? BTW, speaking as a spectator, lets see a fire test by an electrical engineer. Call your local fire chief and ask him/her to weigh in on the quality of the extinguisher and ability to control or slow a LiFePO4 fire. They can stand-by when you get serious, they may offer you their training facility for the demonstration. After forty years of being a first responder I never met a fireman who didn't like starting and fighting fires for training. This would be an excellent demonstration and video. ~Cheers

[@tomasvaclavik8756]

If I buy this box, all the cables need to be replaced. Thank you Andy for the perfect video for the DYI battery.

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

Thank you, they will replace the cables with flexible busbars again and make other changes as outlined in the first comment under the video.

[@bnh100]

I just order 2 Kit's V2 last week. Nice that Andy made a video. Thanks

[@angellee713]

good

[@mtdare00]

Thanks!

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

Thank you very much for your generous support!

[@jws3925]

LOL. Remembering the polishing days and how particular you were about it. Now look at you Andy

[@knajfy]

I'm sure, all of your followers are waiting to test the fire extinguishers :D I've recently bought a DIY box from Docan, made by Apexium and did not discover any flaws! One thing I miss is the circuit breaker. Should I just put directly in paralell between battery packs with cable or put a circuit breaker between them? I rely on the megafuse which is inside the positive side behind the box. Many many thanks Andy for your videos, without that I would never start to build my own battery pack and go offgrid (mostly). (Zollstock! great to hear that!) Greetings from Ungarn!

[@blablubbb0815]

There seems to be one more difference: The previous compression plates were massive. The new one has holes in it. They claim it is for a better heat transfer, but I don't see how that is better, as no air will actually go through the holes.

[@PazLeBon]

cost saving v2

[@Angelorademon]

I cut additional plates from 4mm steel for the front and back to increase rigidity. I put them under the edges of the batteries. But I understand that no one else will do this except me :)

[@paulsmalser3261]

0:30 I am waiting kinda patiently to get my 5 batteries that are supposed to be delivered tomorrow so the timing of this video is perfect. Also the cell connections are aluminum , so hitting the tops where the buss bars connect with some sandpaper and then a light coating of Noalox just to make sure there is no corrosion between the cells and buss bars. I am not sure wich version I am recieving tomorrow , but if version 2 I will be making main wiring changes before putting into production.

[@MMMM2MMMM2MMMM]

Hi Andy, i did tell Yixiang (Becky) the cables where to thin in version 1 and this is a fire hazzard! I was being told i was wrong. Thank you for pointing out the hazard again! Buyers should know this. Adding the extinguisher is ok, using thicker wires should be their priority.

[@MMMM2MMMM2MMMM]

Yixiang V2 has TOO THIN flexible bars! These bars will glow like a filament bulb too! 😮😮😮

[@PhilippeCJR]

the fire device is passive. It has no sensor. The blue cable is a fuse. It burns and ignites the powder/gas inside the round module

[@john999]

Correct. It is a thermal fuse. If the red tip is getting to hot, it ignites and triggers the fire extinguisher

[@JdZ-2023]

I think the case is really improved. For myself, i would add a Class T fuse in the negative wire for safely super high current cut-off and not relying for that on the breaker or the BMS.

[@kappa7c]

That's exactly what I've done with my EEL vertical box.

[@croftegan7993]

I am just now waiting for my V1 battery glad I got the V1 now. Thanks for the review.

[@showme360]

Hi Andy, Ken in mid Wales here, with my 3 x mason 10.5kWh battery packs, I asked Seplos to supply me cut off switches which match the ones you have in this Yixiang Kit. I asked them where I should install them and they advised between the battery and Inverter. The cables they supplied the orange ones I have used through out, with matching to extend my install and also included line fuses just to be sure. The fuse inside the Seplos kit I changed from 200A to 100A as I not draw that much from the batteries. 4k to 4.5kw which falls under 100A DC is usually OK, and as a secondary precaution I installed a second inline fuse out side the case between the cut-off swicth and battery pack. I rated this at 150A so the cut off switch is only ever going to be used as an emergency shut down under load if necessary. Cut off under load is the key here as you can see in other videos arching can occur and this type of cut off switch can help to disperse this arching effect. You should open one up and take a look, you should find a series of metal plates layered on top of each other and spaced apart. I would really like you to test these various cut-off switches to see for our selves just how good or bad they are.

[@pbasista]

37:50 The labeling on the front panel of the battery box seems to be correct. But the circuit breaker is upside down. It seems to be symmetrical so it should be possible to flip it. Although the labeling on the circuit breaker itself seems to be wrong. The tripping button only works when it is in the green "OFF" position. Perhaps the black moving part within the breaker is also upside down?

[@AWESOMEGODDIVER]

Andy did remove the breaker to test the screw tension. Maybe he installed it back upside down?

[@pbasista]

@AWESOMEGODDIVER I thought that as well but then I have checked the video and the breaker seems to have been upside down even when it was originally installed.

[@veeerzes]

Hey Andy! Do you have by any chance tested the Apexium DYI battery box? It now also comes with the JK BMS and some things are better compared to the Yixiang, like for example they use busbars instead of cables. But the downside of the Apexium kit is that you need to build pretty much the entire thing (could also be a good thing, considering the QC issues)

[@TheDefpom]

You were worried about the cable cross sectional area, but you never checked the cross section of the original box for comparison, maybe you could measure the width and thickness of the equivalent linking bars and multiply the dimensions to get the mm2 to give the effective cross sectional area for them too.

[@Angelorademon]

The area of ​​the heat-radiating surface is also important. You can't just compare by the cross-section. Flat busbars cool much better.

[@TheDefpom]

Circuit breakers and fuses have a fusing factor, basically the 250A rating means it can do 250A forever, but depending upon the fusing factor rating you can probably do 300A for about 30 minutes, 350A for 5 minutes, 400A for 30 seconds, 450A for 5 seconds etc...etc. obviously these numbers are just estimations, but you may be able to find a data sheet for the breaker and find out the actual ratings and response curves of the breaker, to me that breaker should only be 200A, the same maximum as the BMS, the breaker should protect the BMS, not the other way around.

[@SkypowerwithKarl]

Andy it’s very common to get no reading on some alloys. Aluminum forms an oxide very quickly. A quick buff by HAND with 3M cloth (bear hair 😂) will remove it right before assembly

[@JdZ-2023]

Yes, and clean the terminal and bar with aceton before mounting.

[@andrewradford3953]

Had to explain that to an older fellow recently. I think he thought I was having a lend, until I mentioned that to weld aluminium well, you need to clean it just before welding.

[@ErikLachance]

Hey, love your channel! Could you do a video tour showing how you have all your solar panels connected to charge up all your batteries? It’d be super interesting to see the wiring setup and how everything comes together. Thanks for all the awesome content!

[@loucinci3922]

Enjoyed the video. Thanks for sharing

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

Thank you for your feedback.

[@lnxpro]

I would be curious if you were to flip the breaker to match up = on and down =off, If the cables would reach better? Maybe it was put in wrong at the factory.

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

The breaker is mounted the correct way around and works as designed. I just wasn't aware 'how it works'. It will be in the next video.

[@JdZ-2023]

For connecting the balance cables to the cells, i would make an extra m3 screw connection to the busbars instead of using the cell screws. This is far better, and add a small 10A inline fuse (low internal resistance) in de balance cable, so the small balance cables are protected.

[@atvsteam]

Hi Andy. I ordered two V2 batteries separately from Becky. The batteries from the first order arrived ok. So did the box. The batteries from the 2nd order arrived poorly welded! ... too little laser power! The box from the second order arrived badly damaged, but in undamaged packaging. The front side was dented by 1cm, the top side was torn at the edge where it was punctured by 6mm. In the box, there were a lot of too-thin soft cables, aluminum, very thin connections between the main connectors. In the second shipment, both epoxy insulation plates for the bottom were missing. To all complaints, Becky excuses herself that they will improve the control in the future, etc. and that I will get a discount on my next order. Basically, I should figure it out myself. So I replaced the paper aluminum plates with 100 mm2 copper ones, I had to order the missing epoxy protection at my own expense. I also replaced all the screws that were too long. With a lot of difficulty I managed to force the box to straighten out, but I don't know yet whether the BMS will work on it (due to an obvious drop in the factory in China). Do they really think we're that naive?

[@jeeastee]

We talk about the thin wires which is an issue for sure, but how about the copper traces on the jk bms? I don't think they will be much more than 25mm2 and will also run hot. Would be nice to investigate what is does under a 200A continously load.

[@chrishuxley7634]

The fire extinguisher is there for certification in some countries. Wire size is a big problem and should be much larger. Breakers unless something has changed break at much higher values than shown and often only trip if there is a dead short, slight overloads can lead to trips 5 to 10 times shown value the breaker. They may well be using the very short length of the cables as a justification for the small diameter as the length is also a factor in carrying capacity. I would retrofit larger ones.

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

Ah, yeah, could be a compliance regulation... Yes, depending on the trip curve of the breaker, it could be higher. I don't think the length is a justification for how much current a cable can carry. That is more a voltage drop issues. 250A are 250A if the cable is long or short does not matter.

[@onapt19]

Please clarify about compression: 300 kgf by one screw 6 mm and 3nm 24:24, if you use 6 screw how calculate what moment you need?

[@fabrica-almacen3130]

Considering you are compressing 2 batteries rows you need 600kgf so you need 6nm … but with 6 screw you will need only 1Nm torque on each of them to generate the total 600kgf (300 on each row).

[@jamesdk5417]

Hi Andy, I was wondering if the new ventilation holes were there as part of a requirement for the new fire extinguisher. Just speculation on my part, I have never seen one before. Thanks.

[@wingnut771]

You should do a 200A test.

[@ricardomarcelino8388]

Hi Andy, the cable problem does not only happen with a faulty BMS. A wrongly programmed BMS can in fact create an overcurrent situation.

[@jogi_54]

48:30 f Holes or venting - maybe needed for the Fire extinguisher ??

[@furydonnico]

Just received mine and some more comments : wire size is 4AWG (35mm2) for positive and 2x6AWG (25mm2) for negative, not enough in m'y opinion. I'll replace them with 2x4AWG (70mm2). The busbar between pôles is only 40mm2 aluminium, 50mm2 might be safer to handle 125A. The main issue is on the breaker. Contact plates are not flat and there's a very small surface on contact. I had to file contacts to recover a flat surface. Be careful tu check them before using high current. Added a piece of thick paper below PCBs to prevent contact with case and replaced 2x3 M3 screws with 2x6 countersunked M3 screws. No more risk to scratch PCB. With 14 EVA tape and plate between cells, there's a gap of about 3mm when compression plate is fully screwed. I bought 20 more EVA tape to allow compression. This is a good case but need some tweaks to be really secure and optimal.

[@dreckbaer]

So basically we now have the choice between pest and cholera... Take v1 and get a flimsy circuit breaker BUT nice flexible busbars for the front panel connections. Or take v2 and get a good circuit breaker BUT flimsy cables for the front panel connections. Personally I might still go with v1. Shame, I really wished they would have kept the great stuff from v1 and just eliminated the existing flaws (PCB board screw issue/ circuit breaker) - than we would have had a near to perfect DIY battery box...

[@bobminchin]

Another question please. I've watch many of your videos including where you are concern about voltage drop with different busbars. Have you tried using spring washers to bite in under any coating on the aluminium?

[@CollinBaillie]

That circuit breaker is a surprise. All of the labelling and colours are actually correct. It just doesn't work correctly. Down should be off, showing a green label, because that's safe, disconnected. Up should be on, showing a red colour, because it is live, it is "dangerous" Up is on, and down is off. In the event of gravity bringing something into contact with the breaker, it will be mostly DOWNWARD force, turning it off. It changes to a SAFER state in the event of an unexpected, and unobserved event. Everything LOOKS correct, but the breaker is backwards internally.

[@arnoldpfusterschmid1108]

Vent holes at the front: Considering these thin cables inside carring 250A, definitely YES!!!

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

Strange design, isn't it? Installing thin cables and then punching vent holes in the case because the cable may get really warm.

[@concernedcitizen3159]

(Edited to correct typo) Just a heads up, I have now purchased my third of the older version box and they did not arrive assembled like the ones in these reviews. The only thing actually connected to the case in every box was the BMS chassis/frame. All other parts including handles and rails etc and all wiring/connectors, insulation sheets were loose and floating around inside the boxes. I stopped buying them because they were always damaged internally in some small way. eg. warped/bent rails over/unevenly tightened BMS screws etc.

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

You must be talking about a different case? There is no inverter chassis with this DIY box.

[@concernedcitizen3159]

@OffGridGarageAustralia sorry I meant BMS chassis (frame). It is the exact same case as yours but nothing fitted. I am disappointed that it was all loose and not fitted like yours. Even the rails for the balance wire PCB were bent. I guess they have different levels of service for different customers or something.

[@ivanpelser5516]

Greetings from South Africa!!

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

Hello to South Africa!

[@apoco_lips9957]

I think that extinguisher is just pressurized air with powder, when the blue hose burns through it releases it at that point? not sure though

[@juozasc]

I tested old circuit breaker. It works quiet well. Breaks fast at about 120A when removed parallels.

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

I don't think, the old breaker has any breaking capability to protect such a battery.

[@JdZ-2023]

The boards A & B and the cell numbers are from right to left, therefore the connector pairs 1/2 & 3/4 are from right to left also. Makes sense for them. Aldough renumber to the connectors 1-4 from left to right at the BMS is better indeed.

[@MandeepSingh-pf9kv]

What is the benefit of epoxy sheets placed in between the battery cells?

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

Isolation. The cells can move during contraction and expansions and rub through the blue heatshrink of the cells over time. The cell case is the positive of the cell.

[@moestrei]

​​@@OffGridGarageAustraliaCase is the positive, not isolated from the terminals. Have to rethink the packaging in my motorcycle.

[@beebop9808]

Looks good enough to me that I've ordered a few of them. Was watching as close as was possible in the front compartment and thinking about reworking cables to get a T class fuse in there somewhere. They've got to go somewhere and hope I can squeeze them in? And I'm ok with the big clunky breaker, I've got a few of them myself. 160 amp instead but they make a nice disconnect switch. And to top it all off, looks like I've finally found a use for the big box of 3mm nylon screws I've got. :)

[@TimotheFillionBrunet]

It would be great to have a recommended configuration of the bms to have the best lifespan of the lfp batteries. I didn't know about minimum voltage for balancing and is there also other configuration to change from the default one?

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

I have all the best settings on my website with links to the videos explaining all settings. off-grid-garage.com/my-settings/

[@charlesball6519]

I'm honestly looking at the Apexium vertical standing box, their v3. Display on top, comm connections on the side, battery connection on top. Would definitely save space.

[@RichardSteigmann]

I think that the electrode surface is sandblasted. It looks like that and has the side effect that it oxidizes quickly in the air, which also confirms your slightly inconsistent measurements.

[@RichardSteigmann]

Yes, please instruct Andy 2 to test with the fire extinguisher 👍👍🤓

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

I knew you would say that!😄

[@Rinzler1215]

Nice Video. I see the Luba carton in the back. I'm really keen to get some information about the repair 🙂

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

Coming soon.

[@frankmeilinger6846]

Hi Andy. Are any of these DIY battery boxes prepared to install a pre-charge resistor? Or is this a feature which is maybe already integrated in modern BMSs like the JK inverter BMS (maybe I've missed something)?

[@unionse7en]

In the Eg4 Power pro 14.3 kwh battery. I think inside it uses 2c 4awg of very short runs, but then on the outside they recommend 2/0 AWG cables to run couple feet. 250 Amp breaker. I think it's actually 1x 4awg to each 125 amp CB in parallel.

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

The length should not determine the cable size from a safety perspective (voltage drop, yes!). If the circuit has a 250A breaker, the cable size should be accordingly, no matter where in this circuit. We have seen this many times in other DIY and also pre-assembled batteries, that cables are usually too thin and not sized correctly.

[@Franky6767]

Question: what value do you enter as battery capacity in the BMS? The nominal value of 280Ah or the actual capacity value of 305-308Ah?

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

Always the nominal, even the real capacity might be higher.

[@concernedcitizen3159]

I always enter the tested value, then you know exactly what you have. The only reason to enter the nominal is if you want to have some extra leeway in reserve. The argument against that is if the batteries test below nominal capacity(which happens often with lower grade or older cells) you will get caught short one day and have a system failure.

[@007silverwings]

I found with my V2 box that the cells weren't compressed with all the EVA foam and resin sheets. I had to add more material. Also, what torque setting for the terminals please?

[@wayne8113]

Thanks Andy, Cable size needs addressing, But not bad at all. 👍

[@davidpenfold]

I think the circuit breakers are more about isolation, so a higher grade helps avoid arcing and fire when switching off.

[@clarencewiles963]

98.8k I believe it will be Saturday when I see a super cool number 😊

[@ShuhDonk]

Where can you get the 33 version firmware for the jk bms, you only have 32 on your website.

[@RobbieHLM]

For builders, aware of risks and watching your videos, still a very good box. The cables, that's a big red flag and they need to deliver busbars.

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

I think bus bars are more expensive, so they decided to save some money with the V2

[@alexsimmons1803]

@@OffGridGarageAustralia Save money, cost lives. Not even half a frog for me. Those cables do not comply with Australian Standard AS/NZS 3008.1.1 70mm^2 stranded copper minimum for short distance 200 A DC in an enclosed space. I'd be swapping them out for suitably rated cables. Thanks for checking it out.

[@moestrei]

Flexible bus bars is a must IMHO. Plus I prefer those with a separate M3 hole for the balance cables. A 5kW inverter as a load is about 120A .... cables are just good enough.....BMS would trip at 200A....the 250A breaker is just a last resort, more like a big switch?

[@chrisporter449]

Andy! Hello from Hawaii. I totally learned and pretty much copied your battery shelf design and made a 24v system about 2 years ago (8s 2p).. anyhow I live in a rain forest high humidity area, and every month or 2 the moisture messes with my battery balance wires,I just loosen the nuts on the battery, wiggle the balance cables and tighten and that fixes it.. my question is what can I spray on the battery terminals to keep out the moisture? Anybody?

[@NiueChannel]

I didn't used it myself but planning to: just check this out: there is a spray called "CRC" (brand) called "Soft Seal" : "long term corrosion protection for metal surfaces, seals out moisture and corrosion , leaves a dry transparent film". And also: "NO OX ID" corrosion protection grease for electrical connections. Research about how to use them properly before using, please.

[@stefankaufmann8257]

Andy, cable sizes are absolutely ok. Your tables are meant for wires longer than a few centimeters. Lets make a calculation with 200A, 25mm² and 0,5m of length: R = rho*L/A R = 0,0175*0,5/25 = 0,00035Ohm = 0,35mOhm Voltage drop = R*I = 0,00035*200 = 0,07V Power loss = I²*R = 200*200*0,00035 = 14W I would recommend 2x 16mm² instead of one 25mm², as they are much easier to bend and they put less tention on the connections. I would rather worry about the balance wires, they are very thin and not protected by any kind of fuse.

[@Ale-or2gk]

In addition at @46:00 andy is saying that 21mmq cables are not enough for 250 amps, but as @stefankaufmann8257 said you have to take into account the length. If you want to satisfy your curiosity open the plastic of a 250Amp fuse and look how much the section of those 2 cm is. much less than 20mmq For me that positive cable can handle 300Amps... Andy satisfy our (and your) curiosity and put a load of 200/250amps on the battery monitoring the cable with the thermal camera. xD A whole other story when it comes to those cables bent and pulled like guitar strings. Definitely unacceptable. Already with the thermal expansion during use they could create problems, if then put in an environment subject to vibrations (like a car or van) they will break in a short time.

[@stefankaufmann8257]

​@@Ale-or2gkcorrect. Power loss for 300A would be 31W at the same conditions of my example. That is acceptable, if 300A is only peak current for some minutes.

[@mrballbreeder3749]

It is to easy to bully you about your ignorance but i will keep it to the follow Andy make the vieuwer smarter , test it in a video what temp the cable will become after 1hr of 200A or even 250A drain continiously with a 2m cable connected from the battery connectors and the inverter. show the 25mm2 inside cable temp and the outside cable of ...lets say 70mm2 just to keep it abit safer. at anytime you can stop the test if the temps goes to high for your feeling.... I will sing the song great balls of fire while watching that video....

[@stefankaufmann8257]

@@mrballbreeder3749 you didn't get the point and obviously you are not even trying to. Length matters. If the cables are short, you can reduce the crosssection. If they are very long, you have to make them even bigger than shown in the charts. And to make it clear: Length is proportional to resistance, is proportional to voltage drop, is proportional to powerloss, is proportional to heat. I'm not bullying anybody, i just say: Here is the calculation, theses are the numbers. So do your own calculation and tell me, what is wrong with my mine.

[@mrballbreeder3749]

@@stefankaufmann8257 you didnt in your calculation multiply by 2 for the lenght of cables and didnt included the total lenght up to inverter . you didnt calculated the resistance heat and asume by that it will not get the 90c when the insulation starts to melt. Dont forget that we are talking about 200A continiously and not burst power And its 2 pole not 1 pole of your calculation. Ive said that i doubt the short lenght of the cable matters for voltage drop . It could if you use much smaller cable due resistance. What matters is de resitance heat and that you dont show in any calculation so my advice to you is go test yourself a 25mm2 0.5m cable , drain 200A of power true it and try to hold on for 1Hr and come back to me how long you were able to hold it . And then we will talk again....

[@RFDarter]

17:48 There is no ling to these Yixiang cells. Just one to your website, but i cant finde the linkt to the Yixiang cells anywhere

[@007silverwings]

​@@YIXIANGBATTERYare you going to be making any changes to the V2 box after Andy's feedback? Thanks.

[@styno7267]

What is the wire thickness one uses to hook up such a box? Should those all be 70mm2 to match the breaker?

[@andrewmclauchlan9205]

Interesting. I have two on the water at the moment so I'm waiting to see what I get!

[@MatthewBayard]

Sorry to take this video off topic. I have been given some 8 190w solar pv panels. I already have a grid tied system ( 8.3kw of solar pv connected to a 10kw inverter) I know no one would connect these used panels to the spare string on the 10 kw inverter. What would you suggest I use the 8 panels for? Run a hot water element to heat up a spa Buy a Grid Inverter and feed power back into the house - As im approved for FIT, so who would really notice a little more power going back. Off grid EV charger Love to hear your thoughts from sunny QLD.

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

Very difficult to say. If you're in AU, you're not allowed to install more solar power than stated in your agreement. Hot water or EV charger is always a good idea. Very hard to give you any advice as I'm not familiar with your system and regulations.

[@MatthewBayard]

@OffGridGarageAustralia Melbourne Australia. I've got heaps of room like you to install more panels

[@Lorien311]

Are those V2 Boxes finally available without the JK BMS ?

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

What would you use instead?

[@moestrei]

​@@OffGridGarageAustralia In my case I have no case but cells and jk-bms already

[@thomdukesherer2744]

you list this option on your website as a 48v or 24v. Can you explain what changes are needed to run this kit as 24V?

[@niolait]

Hi I am in Italy where I can buy around Europe this box battery bank I am confused wich one I have to use to buy!?

[@toddtusler1024]

21:32 Hi Andy, I think the battery on your multi-meter is dying. This could be causing your issue with inconsistent voltage readings!

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

It is just a low voltage warning. Like in your car when the fuel gets low. It still drives for quite a while, doesn't it?😋

[@kappa7c]

General note about JK inverter BMS: I'm a bit scared that the positive cable of the BMS is not fused, even not on the BMS itself. It's used not only for the BMS power supply but has also a freewhelling diode directly placed between B+ and P- and a snubber circuit to reduce voltage transients when the BMS is switched off. I think that the big toroidal inductor is part of this circuit. Thats also why it has a bigger gauge wire than the balance cables. Btw not only the balance wires are much more thin, but all the balance inputs of the BMS are also "fused" with 0.1ohm SMD resistor. I think that it would be better to add a fuse on the positive cable, but I'm not sure of the right amperage: it should not break when the BMS interrupt the circuit under heavy loads (and long battery cables which add inductance)

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

There was never a fuse for the power supply of the BMS.

[@kappa7c]

@@OffGridGarageAustralia Yes I know and that's scary... the JK BMS with power wires without any fuse would never pass any certification (UL VDE, ecc) . Just search "JK bms melted balance leads" on diysolarforum to see what can happen when a short circuit happen on a non fused cable. BTW this was happened with the old stile JKBMS which has the same thin wire as balance wires for the BMS power supply. With bigger cables you can expect bigger fire :-)

[@concernedcitizen3159]

@@kappa7c I share your concerns, this combo of box and bms does not seem to be quite there yet.

[@bobminchin]

Andy, I have 16 of those twin thread terminal cells from EVE. Still awaiting delivery of the Seplos mason kit. Where can I look up the QR codes please whilst I can still access them.

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

You can use the QR code scanner if you have an Android phone, or enter the codes manually at the Gobelpower QR decoder website. Both links are on my website here (about half-way down): off-grid-garage.com/batteries/

[@bobminchin]

@@OffGridGarageAustralia Thank you Andy Another question please. I've watch many of your videos including where you are concern about voltage drop with different busbars. Have you tried using spring washers to bite in under any coating on the aluminium?

[@jpcme2002]

one more excelente public service ;) Andy you said in the video about firmware V15.33 and there is only V15.32 for 200A... there is a .33 or it was a mistake? cheers mate

[@polvincompoundsadmin5402]

25mm2 cable can carry 250 amps safely particularly in short runs. It will get warm. Look at extension cords- a 15 amp cord is 1.5mm2 and current flows both ways, in your cable only flows one way.

[@alexsimmons1803]

It's a 200 A BMS - that battery is designed for sustained outputs close to 200 A. Those cables are woefully under sized. The fact it's DC is irrelevant. It's just cheap crap and a safety hazard. Over a short 20cm run 200 A DC requires minimum of 70 mm2 stranded copper cable to comply with Australian Standard AS/NZS 3008.1.1

[@nonicknamesremain]

Pretty sure the cable sheath is a moot point. If the cable is under sized, then it's under sized. The sheath will just handle a bit more heat. It hardly increases the load carrying capacity.

[@tquinn63]

@@alexsimmons1803 If they ship now with the flexible bus bars and the fixes (as Andy detailed above) do you see any outstanding concerns.

[@alexsimmons1803]

@@tquinn63 Well you have to wonder what else isn't up to spec that just hasn't been noticed yet, or what other cost cutting measure has been taken to account for these changes. It's a problem when built down to a price.

[@andreasdingens6172]

Hello Andi. Thanks for this great video. Your dirty glasses triggered me a bit at first. I'm curious which box I'll get. I ordered mine on 2024-08-28. Apparently this is already in Rotterdam. After your video, I'm hoping for version 1. I also think the cables in version 2 are too small. I would replace them with my own cables.

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

Well, you can still order both versions, so it depends...

[@andreasdingens6172]

@@OffGridGarageAustralia My box arrived on Friday. Version 1 has been delivered. However, I don't have "Yixiang" printed on the front. The back wall has holes on the inside and the outer struts on the right and left are open from above. The press plate is also perforated. The two PCBs also look slightly different and only have 2 screws each with an insulated washer. However, there are still 6 holes per PCB. The plugs to the BMS were not plugged in. Flexible bus bars were included, a wide one for the connection between cells 8 and 9, also flexible. I will replace the circuit breaker from V1 with one from V2. It looks much better to me, even if I have to change something about the cables. I couldn't find the exact circuit breaker, so I chose a 200A and 250V DC which isolates up to 25 kA.

[@angyp74]

Those small cables remind me of the ones that come with my ELL box way to small. I changed mine to 2x25mm for the negative and 1x50mm for the positive. I really wanted flexable busbars.

[@technician1974]

Hello Andy, there is only one way to try if that caliber holds up and we want to see it .....

[@aha5888]

Hello. Can anyone confirm ? Is it possible to use external active balancer 5a with jk bms bal 2a? Both balancer running same time?

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

Yes, you can run as many balancers at the same time as you like. But if the JKBMS is not able to balance (maybe needs more time for the initial top balance at 3.45V?), there is something else wrong.

[@aha5888]

@OffGridGarageAustralia good morning 😁, i plan to build 16s lishen 280ah grade B bnew with jk bms 2a balancer. Maybe 2a is not enough, i initially plan to use a non smart balancer with 5a but now im eeying the jk smart active balancer 2a and set them both to start at 3.4-3.45v. Any recommendations? Additional jk smart balance good enough ? TY

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

@@aha5888 Start with the JKBMS first and see if can handle the cells. Charge to 55.2V and let it sit there until the delta is at 10mV. Check the next day, when the battery fully charges if the delta is significant higher again.

[@dingsvomdach6764]

Is the seller called shenzen yinxinang new energy ? Or where is it safe too buy ?

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

Link is in the video description. This is safe to buy from them.

[@Jim1Dean]

wo bekomtm man passende Batery kabel für die YIXIANG her ? Am besten einseitig mit dem richtigen Stecker vorkonfektioniert

[@s300bhp]

There is a new version of the vrm v3.50 Andy, give it a try it is brilliant.

[@kaspernaess-schmidt6618]

VRM?

[@s300bhp]

@@kaspernaess-schmidt6618 Victron VRM

[@olafschermann1592]

Andi#2 please do a fire extinguisher test!

[@olafschermann1592]

Would you rather just use 4nm for screws or instead use 4nm AND loctite to permanently leave the screws in position?

[@aabb-xt8kl]

What is ideal charging voltage of lifepo4 cell 3.45 , 3.50 , 3.55 , 3.60 or 3.65 volt And what is ideal charge rating 0.1 , 0.2 , 0.5 or 1c And what is ideal discharge rating

[@rdcabal]

Does the resistance change much depending on how tight the bus bars are? Is there a recommended resistance range?

[@stevehowell2910]

What torque gauge is this I need please

[@keyem4504]

Wouldn't the vent holes circumvent the function of the fire extinguisher?

[@derfreiemensch]

Hi Andy, why did you not Test the Cable? Send 250Ah in the Battery and we will see what happend to the thin cable.

[@jcgcs]

Hi Andy, all the new JK inverter has the new bluetooth name, and a power cable wit tiny ringlug

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

Once again, we learn from each other... Thank you.

[@jcgcs]

@@OffGridGarageAustralia Yes, I like!

[@jcgcs]

@@OffGridGarageAustraliaAndy, why is there no fuse in the powerline of the bms?

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

@@jcgcs A fuse for the BMS? I have never seen a BMS which has a fuse, at least not an external one. I'll ask JIKONG if they have an electronic fuse which resets automatically.

[@jcgcs]

@@OffGridGarageAustraliaGreat!

[@Fusion8r]

Hey Andy I know you'll get to it eventually but please try to update from V15.29. I can't get mine to respond to either up or down(in a EEL box, all 4). Howard may have to warranty them for me. Anybody else having this problem of a stuck firmware on V15.29?

[@helerionanastas4709]

Danke❤

[@styes1]

The box has two positive and two negative terminals, and I want to connect two EG4 inverters in parallel. Can I connect inverter A to one positive and negative and inverter B on the second negative and positive terminal or is the second terminals on the box just for putting batteries in parallel?

[@pbasista]

They are connected together internally so you can use either of them for either purpose. It should make no difference.

[@styes1]

​@@pbasistaThank you very much. I appreciate it😊

[@garymcconnell1072]

Not sure about that fire extinguisher . Think it needs testing Andy

[@sergea1138]

cable is a nogo, still I dont understand the logic to put the breaker upside down ?

[@janetmorris6792]

Easy to push down with your foot, Most switches in the USA are this way easy to swipe down

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

The breaker is not upside down! But the whole labelling is wrong on the box. Nobody is checking these boxes when they come out of factory.

[@sergea1138]

​​​​@@OffGridGarageAustraliaaccording to your video it is on when push down. Totally weird, at least in EU . The label is correct on the panel, but the breaker should had came the other way as you showed at 37:58 on all other breaker. They do it that way for easy cabling but its really unconventional

[@sergea1138]

@@janetmorris6792 ok, if you look.carefully on the video you will see they reversed the breaker inside the breaker case and reversed the label on the switch. So when pushdown its ON position with label off on breaker case and label off on battery case . Totally stupid decision.

[@lukefarmer5391]

I used a scotch Brite pad to clean off the terminals. It worked great.

[@OffGridGarageAustralia]

I haven't used anything yet and will see if it is at all necessary.

[@ilanozana9652]

I don't know if the wires are rated for 200 c from the out side or from the inside.dont need 200 c near the battery.not even 40 degrees.

[@contemporiser]

I think cable is adequate. It is not made to carry 250A continuously. This situation is abnormal and you don't want this 250A to be delivered to the load all the time. If it did, it is better to contain that fault in the box and trigger extinguisher, rather than sending all that power out to whatever is smoking on the other end of it. they will not even get too hot if 250A will run through them for specified time.

[@CollinBaillie]

This, of course depends on the trip curve of the breaker. Even with an A curve, you must EXCEED the rating (250A) for a period of time long enough to cause a trip. By how much the rating must be exceeded, and for how long, would be the deciding factor. I think Andy uses the safest "standard", which is to build things way over spec. When playing the nickel-and-dime game, the specs of the breaker become crucial. I think the concept that breakers (and fuses) are there to protect your cabling is the way to work, so cabling with more capacity than the breaker is pretty normal. Obviously NOT continuous rating above the breaker trip rating, but certainly able to exceed the trip rating of the breaker. For example, the breaker may not trip at 250A for a time of 10 minutes, 260A for 5 minutes, or 270A for 3 minutes or 300A for 30 seconds (just making numbers up for the sake of discussion) The cable MUST meet or exceed those numbers. So it comes down to the rating curve of the breaker. That will decide the required cable gauge. Oh and of course temperature rise in the cable at those types of load. Temperature RISE is important, because ambient temperature + temp rise is the rating figure. If you have 20°C ambient, a temp rise of 50°C brings the cable to 70°C. If you have 65°C ambient, a temp rise of 50°C brings you to 115°C. Are you installing your battery box in an air-ronditioned room, or the Swiss Alps, or some typically cold place? Are you installing it in a metal enclosure in outback Australia or Arizona or Saudi Arabia? I think Andy is thinking of these things (in the back of his mind) when he does these reviews. People from a lot of different places watch these reviews. It's all fun stuff figuring out the correct cable gauge and so making a recommendation in a review is a serious thing. I commend Andy on his thinking.

[@jesperbach]

V1 or V2 to go for

[@casaseterbakken]

Hi I building my battery from 16 psc 314 amp cells. I have decided to Compress them but I am not sure how mutch I compress. Can anybody give me a hint or maybe a link to a video?

[@L_O_M]

The side vent holes are needed because they are using thinner cables which gets warmer.. That's probably also the reason for having the fire extinguisher 🥴

[@scoobyblu5815]

Rubbish