L15: How to Construct the Body Canvas of Our Traditional Jacket | Online Coat Making Course

[@TuanNguyen-lh8xc]

Thank you ! Reza and all your team for doing this.

[@adosmusichalloffame]

Wow Mr. Reza. You have executed the most beautiful padstitching I have ever seen. Kudos!

[@dieudonnetongfa1434]

It's really a pleasure to follow you and the way you explain things is so convincing. Communication with you seems so easy. Thank you for every thing. I am from Cameroon.

[@OFFICIALISOT]

I'm glad you find the explanations easy to follow. Thank you for following our lessons :) Reza

[@sirsherguioth4573]

I love this course, I can't wait for the next lesson. Thank you, Reza.

[@OFFICIALISOT]

You're welcome! Great to have you with us. Reza

[@user-jy8km9xf7c]

When closing the dart im glad you changed your mind about folding the lining on the domette side and all that faffing about

[@OFFICIALISOT]

We actually do that on the Pagoda Model! But I get your point. Which is why I thought that it’s good to show this method as well. Reza

[@KennethMadisson]

I haven’t seen this video, but I will, of course. I was scared that the video of the week didn’t arrive last Friday 😳😳😳I told my girl “Reza haven’t post video.” and she said: “Relax… it’s Christ resurrection week… leave the laptop.” 🤣🤣🤣Anyways! Thank you for the lesson Reza.🤓🤓🤓🤓🤓

[@OFFICIALISOT]

Haha don’t worry, there will be more resurrections this year. Your welcome Ken! Reza

[@giuseppevillani4405]

29:11

[@sbaumgartner9848]

Reza - when are we going to see you wearing your own bespoke suit?? I'm sure you look terrific in it.

[@OFFICIALISOT]

Soon! Reza

[@javediqbal24134]

Great job, keep it up Sir, very informative and effective ❤

[@DoulatTailorsWala]

I'm so enjoying, while your way of teaching 😮

[@seunadeniyi8657]

Thank you for doing this.

[@OFFICIALISOT]

You’re welcome! Reza

[@asherarnold5884]

This was a great video. Thank you so much. I am sure that when I do this I will need to look back at the pad stitching video. These videos are not simple or quick or poor production quality. This is quite the labor of love/ commitment to growing the craft. 🪡🧵

[@OFFICIALISOT]

That sounds like a good thing to do. There are many steps involved. Looking forwards to your results! Reza

[@pranucha]

Hi Reza & Mowgli, thank you so much for your dedication on expanding the knowledge. Truly appreciate what you do. I have a question regarding cutting the dart out after pad stitching, i understand that we want both left and right sides to be cut exactly the same but since there are already marked/matched points on both sides, wouldn’t it easier to cut them separately? I am just wondering… Best,

[@OFFICIALISOT]

You can perfectly cut both panels separately if you want. And if you have marked them accurately. But it is good habit to treat both panels the same and cut on the double to prevent mistakes. Reza

[@pranucha]

Thank you Reza

[@octaviaandcat4202]

Thanks

[@OFFICIALISOT]

Thank you for the Super Thanks Octavia!🙏 We hope you are enjoying the lessons😄

[@orainewright5926]

Thanks Reza. Like many of my friends here, I waited Friday for the video. You are a true teacher Reza. I am so tuned in. ❤❤❤❤

[@OFFICIALISOT]

You are very kind Oraine. Thank you. Reza

[@sbaumgartner9848]

It really helps to watch Part 13 - Padding Stitch | How to Make a Bespoke Jacket at least twice before starting Lesson 15: Canvas Construction - Traditional Method and Pagoda Method.

[@virgiliogavino8083]

Q vien maestro ....felicidades.......

[@roger9441]

Excellent video as always, thank you for sharing. I wonder though, how warm is the water for soaking the fabric? I'm guessing there's an acceptable temperature range that does not ruin it.

[@OFFICIALISOT]

Thank you Roger. Good question. As warm as would feel comfortable in a “hot” bath. Reza

[@andreastepney8003]

Hello Reza - thank you for the informative and clear video. I am wondering, does a missy women's jacket have the same wedge width as a men's jacket?

[@OFFICIALISOT]

If missy has forwards shoulders, then indeed she would need the same wedge on the canvas :) Reza

[@wertwert7667]

If the pad stitch is not contributing to the shape of the canvas, couldnt the same result be achieved by rows of machine stiches(maybe zick-zack) or simple running or back stiches?If not ,what does the pad stich contributes to the construction of the canvas?

[@OFFICIALISOT]

To be specific, the pad-stitch contributes the holding the shape of the canvas, not creating it. Machine stitches or other hand stitches can do the same. However, some stitches, such as straight machine stitches can create channels of bubbles, when the length difference between the materials is severe. This of course depends in which direction or line shape the stitches are applied. When machine stitches are applied inappropriately, they don't allow the longer layer to spread its length evenly across the entire surface, causing breaks or the diffusion of shape. The principle you must be familiar with to better understand the above (in case it sounds abstract) is Relative Layer Length: kzbin.info/www/bejne/rYSpeZuhd6iEf7c Reza

[@sbaumgartner9848]

Since we're using our fashion fabric thread to pad stitch should we be waxing and ironing the thread before using it?

[@OFFICIALISOT]

Not at all. Waxing is not needed for any of these parts. Reza

[@mr.seyfried1652]

Reza, would you recommend adding the wedge to shoulder pad as well?

[@OFFICIALISOT]

Hello! Absolutely not. You can however, stretch the edges of the front and back of the pad to allow it to sit better on the shoulder with a forward shape. This is something you have to experiment with for your personal project to get the specifics right. But if you're following the lessons with our materials, do as instructed for best results. If you do the exercises of all relative length techniques that I've demonstrated, you will understand much better what is and isn't possible. Reza

[@joserapheal7352]

Should you do this for something like a wool overcoat with heavy wool ?

[@pdavis7286]

Would using a zigzag when attaching the shoulder wedge be worthwhile to reduce the four ridges that develop from the straight stitch?

[@OFFICIALISOT]

Hello! Yes it is possible, however, I don't usually recommend it. If the thread is not super thin, it will show through on the fabric very easily, depending on what type of cloth you're using. Reza

[@cypressrollins6199]

What do you think about putting a piece of silesia under the canvas when zig zagging the horizontal cut after closing the dart? I would think think that might need some reinforcement if the canvas isn't overlapping there? Maybe cut the silesia on the bias so it can still move side to side?

[@OFFICIALISOT]

It will be an unnecessary step. The machine threads will be very strong. Adding a piece of Selisia to the horizontal cut may only be needed if your planning to carry extremely heavy items in your pockets AND use them excessively. Reza

[@danukool]

Can you use tracing paper to transfer marks on other side of the canvas

[@OFFICIALISOT]

Yes you can, though it is a fiddly process. Reza

[@sbaumgartner9848]

As I slowly do my pad stitching I wonder how long it takes a skilled tailor to pad stitch a single chest piece. My guess is 45-50 minutes.

[@OFFICIALISOT]

That also depends on the size of the stitches. These can be done within 45-50 minutes per side as you guessed. Reza

[@MuhammadRiyadMuhsinin-fg1gl]

thank you for sharing your knowledge. how to distinguish the outer or inner side of the canvas? I am sory my english is bad

[@OFFICIALISOT]

You do not have to worry about the right or wrong side of the interlining canvas. There usually isn't one as both sides of the canvas are finished the same way during the weaving and finishing process. Reza

[@kubdol3312]

when inserting the wedge would it be possible to pivot the cut to the scye on the hair canvas in order for a simplier way for the wedges not to overlap?

[@OFFICIALISOT]

Yes you can do that. It won't make much of a difference as we have already offset the wedge positions for a smooth transition. When choosing between two methods, you must consider the outcome (in this case a smooth transition/less bulk) and the workflow (in this case making the cuts separately instead of making both at the same time) and decide from there. If your workflow is sacrificed for a similar outcome, I would not see that as an improvement. The same holds true if the outcome is sacrificed for a better workflow. It's best to improve both and move forwards. My suggestion would be to try it out and experience it for yourself. You can always fall back on what I've done in the video or even better, improve it according to your needs! Reza

[@angelobarbosa1425]

Hello Reza, first of all, thank you very much for all these wonderful videos! Second, when it is used a double dart in the chest, the canvas has to be cut removing the double dart and cloaing it the same fashion way as you showes in this video?

[@OFFICIALISOT]

That depends. If you have a double dart on your front panel, I assume you have good reason for it. For most jackets, a double dart is not a good idea. If however you have a double dart for good reason, I would progress by marking the double dart on the canvas as well and cut it out as I did in the lesson. Closing will indeed be the same. Reza

[@angelobarbosa1425]

@@OFFICIALISOT thank you for your answer! The draft would be for a corpulent 48 chest/waist, and the idea would the a double dart on the chest and a single dart at the front seam and at the pocket cut forming like a donlon wedge. I studied this draft in the TC Archibald Whife adaptations for corpulent figure. Does it make sense? I am sorry for my english! Thanks again!

[@thatxonexguy5438]

The leg hair oil bit kinda caught me off guard lol. Just curious, isnt typically silk thread used for pad stitching? Of course there's silamide instead of silk these days, but why not use the silamide instead of sewing machine thread?

[@OFFICIALISOT]

Most tailors use basting thread. Silk thread is possible but not essential. Machine thread is thin and strong, which makes it a great all-rounder with all the colours available. Reza

[@rpprevost]

Reza, @29:41 when you position the horsehair and the canvass with the two selvage edges next to each other, I have two layers of canvass but I have only one layer of horsehair remaining. Where is the other layer of horsehair coming from?

[@OFFICIALISOT]

Hi Randy! Do you mean that after cutting your horse hair, you have no horse hair left for the wedge insertion? Feel free to send me photos to [e-mail] Reza

[@veenamv6063]

Thank you very much.where is ur place? Do you take offline classes?i am from India

[@OFFICIALISOT]

Hello Veena, We don't do offline classes at the moment. Reza

[@allanpennington]

Im doing a womens coat in melton wool with shoulder princess seams so the front is two panels. I assume you would cut the canvas in two panels too? But in this instance what about a wedge in the canvas? Is it required for a womans pattern? Ah just seen the video you have on canvassing a womens jacket. Ill watch that :)

[@OFFICIALISOT]

Yes, please watch the video on canvassing a women's jacket. And as long as women have hollow shoulders (which most of them have) then yes a wedge in the shoulder is necessary. Unless you deliberately want to ignore it and create an extra large loose fit with a messy look for style. Reza

[@allanpennington]

@@OFFICIALISOT Thanks Reza, the coat I’m doing is a fit and flare style but has around 17cm of total ease in the bust area. I assume the more fitted a garment is, the more there is a need for a shoulder wedge.

[@allanpennington]

@@OFFICIALISOT One follow up question. If on a womens pattern there is a shoulder princess seam would you make the canvass with this seam closed then open it to put in a wedge? Would that not nullify the princess seam which effectively is a dart?

[@hemaved3744]

What happens in the back of the jacket tho

[@OFFICIALISOT]

Do you mean how is the back constructed? Reza

[@Staffsknot]

I am just completing my horsehair canvas cutting. I don;t know whether my horsehair canvas has shrunk during the washing process but I am unable to get the complete armholes out of the horsehair canvas. I have done the best I can but wonder if anyone else has experienced this problem.

[@OFFICIALISOT]

Hello Patricia, The width of horse hair canvases sometimes varies a few centimeters. If your chest piece doesn't fit perfectly on the canvas, then lay it so that you lose a bit of the shoulder ends. Those will be trimmed away later, so you don't have to fit them in perfectly. If in doubt, please send me an email + photo on [e-mail] Reza

[@BouncyBunny-h2v]

The Pagoda model? These videos are coming through very slowly.

[@OFFICIALISOT]

Working on it. It will be out this upcoming week. I know that you're waiting and have you in my mind Michael. Reza

[@mohamin3954]

Itu lapisa konstruksi atau lapisan dalamnya jas apa namanya ya? Maaf nanya pakai bhs Indonesia.

[@user-jy8km9xf7c]

It's called a floating canvas where the chest consists of the body canvas horsehair and domette, and the rest is just body canvas alone

[@omardoumbia4749]

Hello boss, how is this?

[@omardoumbia4749]

I'm in Mali, I wanted to learn sewing.

[@OFFICIALISOT]

Hello! Please visit our website for all the information you need: www.internationalschooloftailoring.com/

[@sbaumgartner9848]

I've never soaked canvas before. I assume after soaking the canvas we gently remove the water and roll it up using a dry towel or two, then hang it to dry? I have only found internet postings that say to wash and spin it in a washing machine. Some even say use cold water - very disappointing directions. As always, your video couldn't be better.

[@OFFICIALISOT]

Let it dry naturally. Don’t use a towel. A wire hanger is ideal to hang the canvases on. Let the water drip away until fully dry. Reza