Oil Bypass Comparison on Gasoline Engine

[@owenlee9772]

Yea finally ty for showing all the data I see your thought process now.

[@NathansHVAC]

I'm currently doing some new testing on the main oil filter instead of a bypass system. I set up dual pressure sensors to measure the pressure drop to see when the main filter bypass opens. I will have some good videos on over sizing the main oil filter in a few months. Bigger is better on the main filter. Also, the bypass valve opens most often when the oil is cold. The very tiny main filter on the Nissan clogs at only 3,000 miles even though it looks clean when disassembled. That means a lot of crap gets past the filter. I'll be posing a bunch of videos on this subject.

[@jimdavidson5208]

Moral of the story, change your oil. No visible proof a bypass Amsoil or Frantz filters even work. Good video sir.

[@wiredforstereo]

*in this application.

[@heavymechanic2]

After working with trash collection companies, even if the lab says the oil is still good, oil is changed at 3X normal service intervals due to very small particles causing wear. One company changed filters every 150 hours and did a drain at 450 hours (diesel trucks). I have a 10 micron filter on my AT and it cleaned up a dirty transmission that need to be replaced, saved me a lot of cash. I have a TP bypass on a diesel and I change the element often. Like you said, its hard to determine if a bypass system on a gas engine is cost effective considering the cost of changing oil as compared to lab monitoring. Pore blockage and spectrographic particle counting are not the same results and very hard to compare. Your ISO code of 22/18/14 is kinda dirty in my opinion considering your bypass system should clean it up. Silicon is ingested dirt, is your air filter in good condition?

[@TheGebendorf]

heavymechanic2 l.p. pool inour us

[@mattmcdermott4766]

Great looking numbers. I have a 92 Cummings with the 15-40 AMS OIL. I have there full flow filter with the Napa 5 micron bypass filter. I'm planning on going to the 25,000 miles and test the oil. I been wanting to get the Frantz oil filter system like the RRR system. Or, use a center fuge system witch will take the oil to a micron.

[@tarquineous]

FYI: Frantz recommends changing the element every 2500 to 3000 miles, and replenish the oil with one quart. The Frantz filter holds slightly less than one quart, so this makes up for some normal oil consumption. Adding a fresh quart this often, keeps the additive level and TBN in an acceptable range, especially with a high TBN oil such as Amsoil, Liquimoly, and other long life oils. For a one time change of the Triple R, which has a more expensive element, I would go about 8000 miles, then change engine oil and both filters. A flush fluid such as Marvel, Essentialube, Seafoam, or the like is optional, a day before the oil change. Don't over do it with the flush!

[@NathansHVAC]

The filter I was using costs $25 to $40 each. My goal was to save money using bypass filters to extend oil changes. But, I couldn't find any evidence that the bypass filter actually did anything to clean the oil on two gasoline engines.

[@orthopraxis235]

The most significant advantage to engine life and efficiency from superior filtration is longer engines life and greater efficiency. The wear advantages of the bypass systems are well documented if you do a good search. You will have analytically clean oil 100% of the time. This would be true to extended drain intervales. But Acids can form more easily if the TBN number of oil is too low and/or water gets into the oil. Oil analysis confirms the acid base balance of the oil. There is a specific TBN test in most analysis run ups. So you can test it on normal changes or change it more often on shorter changes and test it to find the point where u usually have, IF you do, a lower tbn count thatn you want. Make that point your filter change interval. They work well. Im not sure you can discount their efficacy until you use one. I have one on two of my vehicles, they are both very high mileage cars and the engines are still the strongest parts of the car. OK...if the TBN is getting low too fast than simply change your bypass element (that's why its most cost effective with bypass filters to use the most inexpensive toilet paper filter that filters properly, and you will replenish additives more often.

[@wearemilesfromnowhere4630]

interesting. thank you

[@vincentrobinette1507]

One simple test for the cellulose depth bypass filter, is to see how HOT it gets. If the oil flow is restricted, the filter won't be much hotter than the normal under the hood temperature. It should be at least 140 degrees Fahrenheit. If not, there isn't enough flow, for it to filter particulates as fast as they are being introduced into the oil. The depth filter should be much better, than the pleated filter. There have been cases, where a little of the "toilet paper" has gotten by the screen, and clogged the metering orifice in the output of the filter housing. Make sure that is clear.

[@NathansHVAC]

That is a good idea. However, since this video, I just oversize the main filter now. I use 4x the filter area compared to the baby factory filter.

[@blue03r6]

mobil 1 is not synthetic oil. it says full synthetic. which means its highly refined crude oil sold as synthetic thanks to loopholes in the law. only oils labeled 100% synthetic is real synthetic.

[@wiredforstereo]

On gas engines, i dont find it necessary to use bypass filters, if youre using the best filter and synthetic. I use Amsoil with their synthetic filters, and the oil never turns completely black, even after a year and 30k+ miles. I have and want to on my diesels, though. Makes a difference when an oil change costs $300.

[@nrmasson1]

If your oil has been in for a while, and you're going to analyze, test for TAN as well. This is Total Acid Number. The acid starts rising when the TBN gets around 3, and you don't want those numbers to cross. If you keep going and those numbers cross, the oil will become acidic and start eating everything. At a TBN of 1, your oil is acidic and damage is occurring.

[@NathansHVAC]

Thats another reason to change the oil. I noticed my fuel mixture was running rich. It was the upstream o2 sensor. Running rich has to punish the oil also.

[@buckaroobonsi555]

TBN getting low is a problem for extended drains even with bypass filtration. When they systems where first put on online int he 1950's and 60's and even through the 1990's Big Rigs and domestic V8 engines burned enough oil that toping up was freq. and it replaced enough of the oil to keep TBN good. On a car or truck that does not burn significant amounts of oil during OCI their is no means of bringing up the TBN or replacing other additives that are still in the oil but are worn out.

[@Jerzeyguy]

I appreciate the lengths your going to for this video. But to be fair on bypass filters They were truly Intended for Diesel engines, were the soot Levels kills the motors. And dusty environments. Try doing this testing on a diesel motor and you will see the benefits unfortunately truck manufacturing no longer use this system back in the day this was standard equip on all class 8 trucks.

[@NathansHVAC]

Exactly. I couldn't find any published research on gasoline engines. So, I had to try it out myself. My conclusion is just use good quality oil and change it at 7,000 miles.

[@ralphwood5114]

You mean some of us that have been using toilet paper filters for over 50 years with no oil drains didn't know our oil was dirty. The aircraft owners that used the FAA approved AeroFrantz didn't know their oil was dirty. Believe it or not aircraft owners send oil in for analysis.

[@NathansHVAC]

I just couldn't find any evidence for longer oil service life on gasoline engines. Any, my toyota actually gummed up at 10,000 miles. The detergents that keep the soot in solution seem to deplete at 7,000 miles and filtering isn't going to fix that. I think diesels are designed for dirtier oil than gasoline.

[@shaneintegra]

Change oil every 3-4k miles and done

[@comeaujosh]

That is on a gasoline engine correct I know on diesel engines they work very well

[@NathansHVAC]

Yes.

[@williamriley9226]

Alert! TBN is too low. The report states that. Your TBN should not go below 6. I suggest use a better oil, and possibly a flush to remove acid laden build up.

[@NathansHVAC]

That is Amsoil 5w30 Signature Series full synthetic. I have switched to Blackstone testing now. They are using a laser particle test instead of a pour block. I'm also seeing clean looking oil at 15,000 miles. However, you are correct that the TBN becomes too low and reduces the ability to neutralize acid.

[@ThatGuy-ix6uq]

lol, if i changed my oil at a tbn of 6 it would have less than 1000 miles on it. Mobil 1 is a good oil and the 5w30 starts with a tnb of 7-8

[@Baigle1]

additive

[@HonkeyKongH]

I’d like to see this same test on a diesek

[@diytwoincollege7079]

So acid rain could be a real thing.

[@themotofixery]

Thank you for the testing! Have you looked at the bobistheoilguy. Com forum? That is the best place i have found to get good information. You can even find virgin oil test results on there witch i find interesting. They might have something to say or suggest about your test results. Check it out if you haven't already. Great video again, thankyou!

[@dwormon8525]

Just replace a quart of oil every 3 months