Which One Of These Oil Filters RUINED This Engine?

The job of the oil filter is pretty straightforward - remove contamination from the oil. That seems fairly simple, but not all filters do that job the same. In this test, we intentionally contaminate the engine oil and run it in our dyno mule engine to see how well two different filters perform. More importantly, what happens to the engine when we contaminate the oil?
#engine #dyno #oil #oilfilter
For more on Dyno Don, check out www.dynodonnym...
For more on Oil Analysis, check out ‪@themotoroilgeek‬

[@UnfinishedProjectDartSport]

I showed this video to my 30 year old push mower and it laughed.

[@TotalSeal]

LOL

[@steveolive9991]

...but his one year old car engine died.

[@mike3f0]

You win....

[@ethanshantz7401]

I showed this video to my Honda trike and it laughed

[@user-sf7kl9uh7k]

While burning your oil.

[@92fsoakcreek]

The Standard "Dust" they refer to is actually "Arizona Road Dust". We worked for Pratt & Whitney making engines and fuel systems. Filter testing was always a part of each Engine qualification. In our case, we would mix up POUNDS of dust and kept it agitated in a drum to be pumped to the engine test cell. Pall Corporation is the leading manufacturer of fuel and oil filters for commercial aircraft engines.

[@TotalSeal]

Thanks for sharing!

[@richh1576]

The ASTM / SAE / OSU (Oklahoma State Univ.) - F1 particle test stand - specification for IC engines for many years 'was' 20 micrometers (µM) as the **most damaging particle**, now being upgraded to much lower µM by the more 'sophisitcated' engine manufacturers. Recirculating oil filters do not filter to 100% removal; but, are 'statistical reduction devices' ..... depending on how quickly these particles 'eventually' are retained. However most of these particals in nature have an electronic surface charge, and the filter media (resinated paper) are designed/selected to have the opposite electronic surface charge - electronic attraction. The faster (and more volume of oil) the contaminated recirculating oil flows 'through' a filter - so, the more efficient filter will have the larger amount of filter paper surface area for less pressure drop and more rapid 'turnover' of the oil in the sump. However due the surface charge effect of particles and filter media once thoroughly contaminated, the particles will tend to 'agglomerate' (stick/'clump') together into larger and larger and large particles - that is why one changes both the oil AND the filter AT or before the OEM recommended changeout interval ..... remembering that the OEM changeout interval was based on highway speed /steady state (cruise contol ON) driving. For non-steady state, stop and go city driving - change the oil at HALF the recommended interval (..... especially on IC engines that have 'loose tension' piston rings - virtually all IC engines since about 2010-12 due to their propensity to build up (from blow-by) carbon deposits 'behind' the piston rings and with tendancy for the now 'stuck' rings from moving; hence **stuck** engine piston rings and the higher probability of catastrophic cylinder wall wear !!!!). Rx: If predominantly (90%) driving 'highway speeds' follow the OEM changeout specification. For 'city driving' which involves a LOT accelerating and decelerating and idling ... change the oil an d filter at HALF the OEM changeout recommendation. Rx: Always choose the filter with the largest 'surface area' (number of pleates). USA, EU and Japanese filters are the choice .... and are typically supplied with a resinated filter paper from a single world supplier - Ahlstrom of Finland, or equivalent etc. .... stay away from Chinese, etc. made oil filters which are 'variable' and inconsistant in filter retention. However, NEVER choose an oil filter with a 'smaller/finer' µM retention specification ... as all you will do is SLOW DOWN the particle removal from the oil .... with MUCH LESS oil 'turnover' through the filter, Lastly, Changing the oil at or BEFORE the recommended changeout interval is one hell of a lot CHEAPER than changing prematurely to a NEW vehicle or replacement engine. I usually get ~200-300k+ miles from my IC engines (I rarely 'beat' my engines). Was a filtration engineer (Pall Corp, etc.) for ~30 years).

[@opera93]

Thanks… for sharing.. I am an old Car nut, DIYOURSELFER.

[@billm6294]

GM used to sell that dust in a large poly bottle with an AC Delco part number (maybe they still do?). We used it for a lot of different development tests.

[@18_rabbit]

@@richh1576re your ...."witha smaller/finer (size symbol) retention specification": i ask, than what? Most if not all filters available for sale here in the U.S of mainstream brands range tween 20 and 30 microns.

[@islandnites]

#1 cause of engine failure as I recall being a mechanic for some years - was nearly always coolant related. If a problem with cooling system didnt take out its engine - then it at least spelled out the the beginning of the end. Pay attention to cooling system!

[@TotalSeal]

Great point

[@LightsaberGoBrrrrrr]

I look at my temp gauge religiously. Actually, funny story - in my manual Civic, the speedometer doesn’t work. I was explaining to a coworker that I didn’t need the speedo to work, I didn’t need the gas gauge to work, I didn’t even need the tach to drive (you could feel out the shifts), but the one thing I absolutely needed to drive was the temp gauge. You have to know the second you start to overheat

[@Lukebarca]

Oof I might need to flush my coolant then.

[@LOVEisACTIONABLE]

​@@Lukebarcaif you don't like every 40k and you drive hard or in hot areas you will blow your head gasket and that can be worse than destroying your transmission.

[@Lukebarca]

@LOVEisACTIONABLE I got it done a few days after I saw this. It was dirty, and I just replaced the pump. I think coolant is overlooked by a lot of people.

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

Good grief. This is the type of content that provides an actual test to the theory and empirical results. Excellent video!

[@TotalSeal]

Thanks!

[@duygukayhanisaskank4915]

@@TotalSeal THIS IS AWESOME...THANKS SOOOO MUCH guys!!!!

[@duygukayhanisaskank4915]

@@TotalSeal The BEST engine oil filter on the planet...in every aspect...is WIX-XP. Believe me, I've done extensive tests on every brand available to the average consumer. WIX-XP beats them all on every level. Best regards, Ben

[@pacbrian3809]

@@duygukayhanisaskank4915 what extensive tests? got a link to your video? research? white paper?

[@zeeosix]

The WIX XP isn't as efficient as many others on the market, and those other filters that are much more efficient also flow just as good as the WIX XP. Independent lab ISO 4548-12 testing proves that. It would have been nice to see that same particle count test done after running a filter that's rated at 99% efficient @ 20 microns and greater. The WIX XP is only around 62% efficient @ 20 microns and greater.

[@user-ss5vx8sj7r]

As a mechanical engineer I thought this test was great and quite educational to me. Thank you, good job, and please keep these coming. Besides the info, your presentations kept me interested.

[@TotalSeal]

Thank you!

[@Jacob99174]

As a human being, I also found this very educational! 👍🏾 Thanks

[@ximan09]

STOP the Music when they are talking.

[@yeahitskimmel]

You were about 9 months late to stop anything lol

[@mnrodriguez]

@@yeahitskimmel ,lol

[@optimusprimer4392]

Engine porn music

[@themightydodge3862]

During the dyno pulls, too.

[@Krunch2020]

Stop whining. I can’t hear the music.

[@multicyclist]

For consistency’s sake, it might be better to mix up a double batch of oil at the start instead of 2 separate batches to ensure both test will have the same particle level in the oil.

[@davidstuck2866]

I would LOVE to see the engine damage caused by this test!!!

[@TotalSeal]

We will show that in a future video!

[@robertwest3093]

I'm gonna be on the lookout for that video!

[@thomasmleahy6218]

I've told you a million times not to exaggerate!!

[@chuckschillingvideos]

Guarantee you any damage will only be "observable" under a microscope and will require Lake's "expert" commentary to see.

[@Airman..]

HBD Lake, i admire your enthusiasm guys Would like to see filter brands performance comparison from regular duty filter to full blown race filter

[@rangervapes571]

The synthetic media filters are even better not only with particulate matter but flow also. In my testing the Purolator Boss filter is a great filter

[@TotalSeal]

Thanks for sharing!

[@HMuny55]

Agreed. I like the BOSS or the Wix XP (also Napa platinum) for great flow, build quality, and filter material with robust backing

[@weirdowolfstudio5409]

@@HMuny55wix makes Napa filters

[@mevio4665]

I knew it! The disturbed filter companies came for you. I noticed the mark on your neck made by their attacks. Glad that you are still alive to provide such a good content to make our cars live longer. Long live!

[@TotalSeal]

LOL

[@stevenpressley5956]

Would be nice to see a FilterMag incorporated into one of the test. Have been using them for decades. I use a cutting tool made by FilterMag to cut open my used filters. You would be amazed at the amount of metallic sludge that is held to the sidewall of the filter can. Great content guys 👍🇺🇲👊

[@TotalSeal]

The FilterMag product works well. Both of these filters actually contained magnets, so there was some magnetic filtration occurring.

[@andymike6575]

In diesels the primary enemy is soot/ash in the 2-25 micron range which need a bypass filtration system to catch i.e. Amsoil EABP

[@naruttaanime9471]

I like that the magnet stays on the side instead of the end to keep anti drain back seal clear. This will reduce the clogging up of metal only near the magnet thus cutting off flow messing up the anti drain back valve

[@vikingmike8139]

Very informative. I went out to the shop and pulled off my steel mesh 45-micron filter and installed a WIX #57099 oil filter. This is on a .030" over bored 454 moderate street build. Five hundred and ten (510) horsepower on the dyno. Thanks, gentlemen and Cheers!

[@TotalSeal]

We are glad it helped!

[@user-ik4fd9ny4b]

Was it a WIx filter? He had a Napa Gold in his hand when they started. I didn't hear them say the brands tested? The Gold is 23 microns and enhanced cellulose.

[@vikingmike8139]

@@user-ik4fd9ny4b Howdy, read my original post, the Wix number is there. If it helps the filter is the black one, Cheers!

[@peskypeet]

The Wix 57099 is so short. You must have space limitations.

[@SubGothius]

@@user-ik4fd9ny4b Napa Gold is just a relabeled Wix.

[@kevinmarshall184]

I saw no mention of the bypass valve that is used to make sure that is oil flow if filter gets clogged. this was famous in chevy vega when oil was too thick and cold , fitter would blow out the seal and leak all over ground. Also the chrysler slant six where the oil pressure was so low oil light would flash at idle. I remember being told at a Fram covention that oil filters only work up to 25-30 psi then bypass valve would allow unfiltered oil to continue through motor .

[@Resistculturaldecline]

Most modern filters bypass in the 10lbs - 20lbs range. But that differential pressure, not engine oil pressure

[@danawilkes8322]

Years ago, we would add the bypass Franz type filter to the regular full flow filter system. We would check and change the filter in the Franz every thousand miles. On top of the filter element we could see what might be changing in the motor as far as wear. A couple of times we saw something that caused us to go in the motor and see what was going on. Is was a good thing we did. This helped prevent more damage to the motor, as the filter showed bearing material on one occasion. On all motors we built over the years, we would block the bypass in the housing where the filter would go on. You did not rev the motor when the oil was cold when you did this. This stopped all metal from doing any bearing damage from a camshaft losing a lobe, or other problem that could contaminate the oil.

[@TotalSeal]

Thanks for sharing!

[@robrobb4034]

It would be great if he rated the top 5 oil filters in 10 minutes ,Versus a 25 minute sermon.

[@beestoe993]

Filtration is tough. I ran a satellite diesel shop for a major trucking company and they decided to save money on oil by staying with conventional oils and regular oil changes. The reason is that even though the synthetic oils are up to the task of longer oil change intervals, filtration is not! The oil would still get too much contamination and require regular changes. I still service my cars by this same principle 20 years later.

[@rickw.9298]

These results were amazing, great job! Before you wrap up, give the old-school 'toilet paper roll' oil filter a test. You do recall the Franz filter don't you?

[@TotalSeal]

Thank you!

[@michaelbenardo5695]

Yup, they used to advertise "Never change your oil again".

[@georgemccool5936]

Love the empirical testing that actually shows the truth. Thanks lake from an old gear head that back in the day ran havoline

[@TotalSeal]

Right on!

[@TheBrawlmastah]

I love how much fun you have with all the ooil and ooil applications

[@TotalSeal]

Absolutely!

[@rodreeves65]

In the late 60's, when we rebuilt diesel engines for UPS, we sprinkled Babo into the intakes to seat the rings.

[@Ron_Masterjohn]

Lake Jr thank you for sharing all these awesome videos with great tests and information. My 2002 Suburban 5.3l with 163,000 miles has always had its oil changed at 5000 miles with full synthetic by Driven HR oil. Suburban runs super strong with awesome torque just like it was new and its stock as can be. Can’t even hear the thing idling when you stand 10 ft away from it. Can’t even feel it when it’s idling when I’m at a traffic light idling. a must keep that filter and oil clean. 😊

[@TotalSeal]

Right on!

[@rodneystacey1155]

car did 166000 miles before rust took it from me. Filter and oil changed every 2 years. 9-12k, save yourself some money

[@otpyrcralphpierre1742]

I love engines so much that it's hard for me to even WATCH an engine pushed to destruction.

[@TotalSeal]

We understand!

[@Titan500J]

This looked interesting but I got bored in the middle however in the end my eyes were wide open and I was astonished. Absolutely wonderful video Thanks

[@TotalSeal]

Thanks for watching!

[@markshaw3219]

Good stuff Guys!! Appreciate your work!

[@TotalSeal]

Our pleasure!

[@hotchihuahua1546]

Years ago on air cooled roller crank bikes they used screen filters along with centrifugal filters and a magnetic drain plug to capture particles in oil . The temperatures in those air cooled motors could reach 300 degrees . The engines carried only 2 quarts and this was conventional oil . Along with that the engine was sharing the oil with the transmission ! I never put more than 500 miles on the oil and cleaned the screen filter and magnets every time . Friends always wondered what I had done to make my bike run better than theirs ! lol It was my secret ! 😅

[@unclebs4732]

Happy Birthday Lake! Sounds like using an expensive oil filter isn't always best.

[@TotalSeal]

The cheaper product won this one!

[@robnova19]

I mean this with the utmost respect. I love you, nerds. I am a nerd some days and a hard charger other days. But I love watching you guys geek out, and I love to geek out with you. Thanks for explaining things and exercising my brain.

[@KaLeB_]

Tks so much, i liked the interation both of you had in the video....

[@TotalSeal]

Glad you enjoyed it!

[@PianoTuningArtist]

Great video!! Thanks for posting! I've been using Amsoil oil filters over 30+ years. FYI: "AMSOIL Oil Filters provide a filtering efficiency in accordance with industry standard ISO 4548-12 of 99 percent at 20 microns - one of the best ratings on the market. Some competitors also claim 99 percent efficiency, but at larger particle sizes of 30 to 40 microns."

[@TotalSeal]

Thanks for the info!

[@wrstew1272]

My dad bought a 327 Chevy engine from a fleet mechanic. He rebuilt it, and for the initial start dribbled a handful of Comet cleanser down the carburetor. Freaked me out to hear that! His philosophy was that the driver was not going to adhere to break in instructions, so a bit of real fine abrasive would seat the rings. He had an excellent test bed of about a hundred trucks being driven by “don’t care how long it lasts “ operators and no negative consequences. Go figure 😂

[@joeheinzle]

yikes!

[@outwiththem]

Nahh. I just put a bucket of sand after the air filter..

[@jw4620]

Very interesting!

[@kevindoherty2716]

Pretty stupid !! If the mechanic honed the cylinders properly for the rings used in the rebuild there shouldn't be any problem with the rings seating.. It's amazing how millions of new cars with new engines leave automotive plants every year and make it fine and working properly by just starting them and delivering them to the dealers without a hitch but mechanics come up with all kind of crazy scenarios and theories about what isn't going to happen properly and insist on finding solutions to imaginary problems and sabotage their own work and customer vehicles.

[@billbarney4937]

@@kevindoherty2716 its not always the person working on the car. you have very poor workmanship performed at some machine shops that cut corners to make more money. ive had subpar machining work done at two different shops. there is no way to prove they did wrong unless you tear apart the motor and get in their face and even then no guarantee youll get satisfaction

[@peterscully4961]

We used the screen filters back in the day on drag engines, where the oil was not in the engine very long. It was simply there to prevent chunks of bearing, rings etc. from being dragged through the engine, not really a filter.

[@TotalSeal]

Good point

[@bcbloc02]

If that is a flat tappet cam I bet the cam got hit hard. Paper filters are hard to beat for function. I see the same with air filters s good paper keeps things clean but takes a lot of surface area to not be restrictive. K&n style filters flow like crazy but let a lot of dirt go by

[@TotalSeal]

Absolutely!

[@mnrodriguez]

I've used K&N air filters for many years in my CR-V for more than 10 years without a problem.

[@arthurmroyce]

@@mnrodriguez Same here, but I clean them annually and re-oil them as the oil is part of the particle capture. I follow the instructions and don't over oil them ever. Never had an issue with a sensor (MAF) and I tend to keep my cars between 100k miles and 200k miles without any noticeable wear (oil usage).

[@arthurmroyce]

@@mikw1809 I used catch cans in all my cars so there is a little reduction.

[@glennhansel9411]

yep, hard pass on K&N air filters

[@Fishfreq]

I always stick a large neodymium magnet to my oil filters as well, and hopefully catch way more of those magnetic particles…🧲😎👍!!

[@martinlang9615]

In my recent engine replacement, I seriously considered a centrifuge like some truck/prime movers/mining engine put decided against it as it also is a moving part (which wears and eventually needs replacement), instead I change oil, first with a flush, then every 5000 klms use an antiwear additive with quality oil filter. As well I will only use quality fully synthetic oil. Then, every 50,000 klms I do a second flush with flushing agent (no antiwear added) and drive it 20 minutes at 100 klm/hr, then change it for the oil and antiwear additive for the next 5000 klms. The reason why I am so pedantic about this as I had a cracked piston on a 2007 Toyota LC Prado diesel 3.0 Turbo and Intercooled and want to do everything possible to avoid another failure. It shouldn’t happen as the pistons are not factory which have been the problem. I would have liked to use the total seal piston rings, but I didn’t know about them at that stage. Next time definitely. I might specify Mahle Motorsport pistons as well. Oh, I will no longer tow anything greater than a 700 kg box trailer. I believe towing the 2.4 ton full sized van contributed to the failure, however I was the second owner and I have no idea what they towed. The engine code is 1kD-FTV and it’s common for these around the world to crack pistons. It’s the pistons Toyota use that are the problem-they just can’t take the heat. I change my injectors every 150,000 klms, so that will not be the cause. I also use a fuel lubricity additive as well as a decarboniser in every tank. I have several digital gauges one is an EGT. I also have installed an Engine Guard which shows me the head temperature (thermocouple sensor) as well I have set the alarm at 90 degrees as an early warning. This model Engine Guard monitors the oil pressure with an alarm set as well. I don’t have an oil temperature gauge, which is my next project.

[@martinlang9615]

Oh, I have a Provent catch can installed, so this helps to keep the engine cleaner.

[@philllsxga.7737]

Great video, in my family we our on our 16 th 300,000 mile GM.. the current vehicle has 338,000 miles on it right now. Every engine has had the cheapest oil filter OR an AC Delco.. nothing else and we have never had an internal engine problem.. not one...

[@TotalSeal]

Thanks for sharing

[@georgehofgren6123]

Excellent anecdote.... also shows that these guys are Beyond OCD with this nonsense 🙄 😒 😑

[@MikeC-g8f]

Which GM engines? Older 5.3’s, 3800’s, 4.3’s ?

[@philllsxga.7737]

@@MikeC-g8f yes. 3.8s, 4.3s 3.3, an iron dude almost made 300k! And 5.3s. All ran like new but the vehicles were rusty..

[@bladengutz2042]

Amazing Results Thank you Guys for sharing

[@bridgetv68]

We appreciate what you guys do. Thank You so much!

[@TotalSeal]

Our pleasure!

[@OFLHLGZ28]

Not sure how many more of these I can watch. Thanks for not actually telling me which filter ruined the engine.

[@treybadd]

It’s the wire screen filter genius.

[@OFLHLGZ28]

@@treybadd never heard them say anything about that numb nuts

[@russellwolter5153]

I believe he is referring to the brand. Most filters out today use a wire mesh to maintain the pleat shape. I also cannot say with certainty, but I believe all filters today are a synthetic or synthetic blend, paper media may not exist anymore. I agree with him, a brand to stay away from would have made this video much more valuable.

[@georgeburns7251]

Had a 1970 VW. the engine didn’t even have an oil filter. I think the oil change interval was 3,000 miles. The first rebuild occured at 133k and the second was at 240k. The crank and bearings were in good shape exhaust valves wore out, and that is why the rebuilds. Oil was straight 30 weight , usually Quaker State. I don’t think this was unusual for those engines.

[@michaelbenardo5695]

It wasn't.

[@JDARJISJ]

Tolerances for those engines were much, much looser than modern engines. A lot more garbage could flow through and with the sloppiness of those clearances it would never notice.

[@bobt897]

@@JDARJISJ Clearances, not "tolerances"

[@dudeman8323]

Cool beans. Ran Fram HP4 filters for 750,000 miles with Rotella oil... still going strong with 12 to 20k change intervals. Duramax LLY.

[@chuckschillingvideos]

Oh, boy you just narrowly escaped engine death!

[@dudeman8323]

@@chuckschillingvideos narrowly 😂😂

[@Sklit77002]

Fresh Oil ISO 16 27 Micron Paper Filter ISO 19 (17,000 particles removed, No Power Loss) 35 Micron Wire Mesh Screen Filter ISO 22 (4,000 particles removed, Lost 10HP in an Hour) Great work! Love the videos, keep'em coming!

[@TotalSeal]

Thank you!

[@Comet-hn3gm]

Good test for those that don't know. 40 + years ago my older brother was all about the Oburg type oil filters. They did look cool. On the other hand, my gut feeling was they were more hype than they deserved. I have ALWAYS used a top of the line paper type oil filter for my street/strip cars and have had great success. Looking forward the the teardown.

[@TotalSeal]

Thank you!

[@kdsowen2882]

Agree totally , I was/am the same

[@CTSHOEBOX]

About 40 years ago I put an Oberg remote filter [with warning light] on my small block healthy built Ford. With 3 [three] micron screen. Approximately 45k miles since installation. Above 2k rpm 70 psi oil pressure before and now. Checked it after a few years when I discovered a bad set of roller rockers [design error] and valve springs shaving the aluminum retainers. Yes it was all in the filter; looked like aluminum paint. I don't know if 3 micron screens are available in any filters, smallest I've seen is 10. You can get the screen [industrial supply] if you want to make your own filters.

[@thomasroth4695]

Just for the heck of it a magnet on the filter can like the old timers would do Keep thinking bearing material in oil

[@Comet-hn3gm]

@@thomasroth4695 Absolutely. I use them on all the engines I build.

[@1967friend]

Would have really liked to actually see the bearings, cam, pistons, rings, and cylinder walls. It lost power, so there has to be wear/damage somewhere that’s likely visible or measurable.

[@TotalSeal]

The Napier hook on the 2nd ring was completely worn off!

[@sc358.]

​@@TotalSealgood stuff. So more surface are in contact with the bore cuz the 2nd ring was worn? I've gotta 383 I built 16yrs ago, gotta tear it down cuz last person opened it up and didn't seal it properly (oil leak). I might just chuck that 2nd ring and just use a gapless top with no second. Mile wide 5/64 setup. Lots of cycles on the thing so may decide to rebuild and go 1mm or sub package which is what I should do. Probably do the former first just for fun 😅 (mine, not built for someone else).

[@TotalSeal]

@@sc358. If you remove the 2nd ring, you will gain horsepower and oil consumption, LOL. We wouldn't recommend it.

[@tlloyd9325]

Did NDT or NDI in the Air Force for 33+ years. Love the good old Magnaflux testing. True test would have been with spectropetric oil analysis, like they use on jet engines.

[@TotalSeal]

We actually did that, but the wear metal particles were too big to be detected.

[@ercost60]

Great video! Nice to see a bit calmer Lake Speed here. Happy Birthday!

[@TotalSeal]

Thank you very much!

[@abrown5449]

Did I see you fill the filter after you mixed in the ferrous powder ?? that kind of defeats having the filter, does it not ??? thought the tests would show how much the filter trapped??

[@benniestander2725]

In South Africa there is a filter brand, GUD. Been using them for years. Never a problem. Actually cut some of them open and compared to the equivalent Hyundai and Toyota filters. They were superior in every respect. And had alot more filter media in them too

[@18_rabbit]

yep, dusty areas require far more attention to filtering everything from oil to air.

[@jatoav8or]

Invaluable information, I subscribed after watching the first video. Look forward to seeing much more.

[@TotalSeal]

Awesome, thank you!

[@MrsSunshine75]

Excellent test, thank you so much guys, keep up the good work, we’re all getting to learn from and with you!

[@TotalSeal]

Our pleasure!

[@cpftank09]

Fantastic test!!! I’ve never liked the steel mesh filters mainly because you never really know if you have it clean before reinstalling it, let alone the lack of filtration like you have shown here.

[@TotalSeal]

Thank you!

[@Chilllybob]

Great video. I was thinking of getting a reusable metal screen filter for my harley instead of the paper filters. After watching this video Im sticking with the disposable paper can filters.

[@TotalSeal]

We are glad to help!

[@chrisyoung5363]

OUTSTANDING effort gentlemen ! :)

[@TotalSeal]

Thanks!

[@frederickjeremy]

One thing they taught us in tech school that it took me a bit to wrap my head around. I slightly dirty filter does a better job of filtering out smaller particles than a brand new clean one. What happens is the larger particles get trapped in the larger holes in the filter media. So where a brand new one might have 20 micron holes, once those catch debris larger than 20 micron in them they will start catching particles smaller than its rating at the costof potential oil flow through the media. It will eventually get so good at filtering it wont even allow the oil to go through essentially.

[@johnsalvaterra3116]

Good video gentlemen! Another variable, direct injection, I've read and been told by a lubrication engineer , direct injection creates some soot, and requires, more frequent oil changes. I have noticed that the oil in direct injection engines, does seem, to get darker, in fewer miles.

[@TotalSeal]

Thanks, and that is correct. There’s both soot and extra fuel dilution from DI engines.

[@TonyTundra5.7]

The oil coming out of Hondas 1.5 turbo after 2500 miles is black with heavy gasoline smell. We traded that 22 CRV in to get Toyotas 4.0 N/A 4runner.

[@arthurmroyce]

The factory manual for my GDI turbo specifies an OCI of 3k miles. When you look at the oil it needs to be changed by then. I monitor the oil in all of our GDI engines and I do keep the change interval shorter.

[@johnfriend862]

I LOVE the altimeter in the old dyno panel, that's the first laugh I've had today.

[@TotalSeal]

Left over from the original dyno

[@MathewPollard-vj4uq]

I think the altimeter was used to measure the pressure altitude at the time of the test. Air density changes will effect how a motor performs and corrections are made to the reported output to standardize it.

[@averyalexander2303]

Wow, incredible results! I expected the paper filter to work better than the wire filter, but I never could have guessed that the difference would be so dramatic. It would also be cool to see oil filter magnets and magnetic drain plugs tested to see how effective they are. I've always used magnetic drain plugs for everything and magnets on the oil filter for piece of mind and they definitely catch particles, but it would be cool to see actual data.

[@TotalSeal]

Thanks for watching. Both filters actually contained magnets, so there was some level of magnetic filtration as well.

[@averyalexander2303]

@@TotalSeal Wow, did the filters come with the magnets? I'm not sure about the metal filters, but I've never seen a paper filter include a magnet unless you guys added them. Also, it would have been interesting to see what the magnets captured in this test IMO.

[@TotalSeal]

@@averyalexander2303 Yes, both filters actually came with magnets installed. Unfortunately, we did not take any video of the magnets after the tests.

[@averyalexander2303]

@@TotalSeal Wow, interesting. I'm surprised that just having a magnet in the wire screen filter didn't remove more of the iron particles. Maybe using a magnet that wraps around nearly the entire outside of the filter like Filtermags would have been more effective since it would directly expose a lot of the oil flow to the magnetized filter can.

[@arthurmroyce]

I used to use magnets, but with all aluminum engines I wonder how much iron is really in there? My older engines would show some particles when they were new and then clean-up.

[@dougankrum3328]

...Those naughty Microns.....My last employment I was the Maintenance Manager...lots of hydraulic stuff...when I bought new oil filters (look and often fit exactly like automotive filters), the choices I usually had were...3, 5 or 10 microns.... Of course they are very expensive...about $$10X the price of a good auto filter....the previous guy had used a big 'engine' oil filter to try saving money...they'd crack/split and lose a lot of oil...quite a mess...the Cost of the correct filter...about $100....cleaning up oil and refilling the hydraulic tank? Certainly more than that..and....I often replaced the cylinder piston seals and moving pressure/seal parts that were exposed ... I think the 'auto' type filters the guy had been getting were something like 40-50 Microns... This was 12-13 years ago....prices have probably gone up...

[@Aleksandar6ix]

One thing that was missing for me was how to identify which type of filter you are buying, especially in relation to brand. I would love to see a filter teardown so we can see what's good what isn't. (Eg: fram vs Mobil 1 vs Mann)

[@TotalSeal]

The wire screen filters are not typical of what is found at a parts store.

[@johnwyman6126]

@@TotalSeal Were those hydraulic filters?

[@peskypeet]

​@@mikw1809 What specific line of Fram filters are you talking about? Can you point a person to this test?

[@billymitchell4722]

Please do the same test with a large filter magnet installed. Thx

[@leonardcoulon3682]

The one problem i see how you did the test is that even thou you change the oil , the motor will still have remnants of first test with with powder in it. Should of tore down and cleaned motor then run second test. Then see what the difference was.

[@TotalSeal]

We flushed the engine with clean oil between the two tests, and the particle count of the first used oil sample showed a much lower count than the oil being added for the first test. Based on, the delta between the “new” and “used” oil on both tests was considerable.

[@GrainGrown]

*I *though *(remove the extra space) *(no space before comma) *(remove the extra "with") Should *have, not "of"... *(extra spaces again)

[@terryvincent8405]

I've been using Canton Mecca filters for decades....spin on in my truck and remote housing on my fun car. Both filters are 8 micron and do not go into bypass. Well worth the investment!

[@lanwickum]

As a former diesel mechanic and now a farmer with my own equipment. Oil and filters I will NOT get cheap on. Clean good oil is key to longevity of most anything. It is almost never additives that prolong life.

[@kb9826]

So now a future video I could see in the works.... Which brand oil filters "scientifically" walk the walk and filter the best and which ones are marketing hype? 😁

[@MC-uj4co]

For a long time I have changed my oil filter again at about 800 miles after I change the oil with a new filter and I never let the car oil go past 1,500 miles.

[@rickinmi]

I use Magnaflux Magnaglow 14a powder where i work. It's particles are about 6 microns. In theory, a 30 micron filter isn't going to catch many of them. Unless its a paper media (or some composite thereof). Nice test.

[@KStewart-th4sk]

So how the hell does this help the average car owner looking for a quality Brand name oil filter? At one time there were guys on here saying FRAM was totally crap. You guys seemed to show a Wix one here, which i started using (Wix Gold) because Channels on here recommended it. Now i just watched another guy proclaiming FRAM TITANIUM was the best and he wouldn't even consider using Wix. All most car owners want to know is Brand and cost. For me, i don't really care about cost, as long as i am getting a top-quality filter that is doing its job. I had a 1991 VW TD that had 698,714KM on it that got totaled by an asshole running a red light. I had used Bosch filters (conventional oil) in it until i could not get locally so switched to Wix Gold. The engine was still running great and i had stuck to VW recommended oil change intervals 8000KM. It would be barely off the full mark by that time---maybe 1/2 liter down at the most. Drove 220-230KM per day Mon.-Fri. with Winter Temp. down to MINUS 30F and lower.

[@TotalSeal]

The Wix filters are what we use. The results from this test showed they work really well.

[@TassieLorenzo]

Any reputable brand name (including OEM) filter will be fine! Debating the ins and outs of various oil filters is more for "fun" really IMO.

[@georgedreisch2662]

Would have been interesting to record the pressure delta across the filter. Was the bypass disabled / eliminated? Back in the day, -70’s, with Chevy V-8’s, I’d generally disable / plug the filter pad bypass valve, and run the 2 quart truck filters, for the additional flow volume capacity. Sorry as I don’t recall the filter P/N, off the top of my head

[@TotalSeal]

The bypass was not disabled. When we cut the paper filter open, the pleats were not clogged. The 5 grams of powder was not enough to clog the filter media.

[@GNX157]

On your test rig, I’d like to see a sensor mounted on the bypass valve to measure when and for how long that valve is open, and a graph showing how much of the oil is not being filtered during normal operation. I know it’s open a lot, but I’d like to see you tell us how much.

[@brinkee7674]

Just think years ago many folks used to just change the oil and use same filter through two changes.

[@patrickmoore1017]

Fantastic video. Very very informative!

[@TotalSeal]

Glad it was helpful!

[@Fritzcoinc]

Ok, I get this intentional addition of iron particles in the oil to test filter types but what about the addition of magnetic filtration for everyday drivers? For the hydraulic systems we design at work, we use a 60 lb pull-weight magnet on the bottom of the metal spin-on filters, and the addition of the magnet traps a lot of wear metal in the filter can outside the filter media.

[@DonziGT230]

I was pretty sure the wire filter would do very poorly in this test, as it would in a normal real world driving environment. Very few manufacturers use them, that alone is a bit of evidence to avoid them. For a wire filter to filter down to 4 microns it would have to be huge to not become a flow restriction, it would also require precise manufacturing so it would be very expensive. Many people don't understand that the micron rating on most filters is a "nominal rating"; meaning that it will let some larger particles through, but will also catch a lot of particles much smaller than the rating. A wire filter is going to catch very few particles below its rating, and most likely pass some that are larger than the rating.

[@seijirou302]

Those steel filters advertised as oil filters are absolute junk for filtering oil, but they are amazing at filtering coolant! One of those, plus a "remote oil filter relocation" kit (you only use half of it) make a very inexpensive yet extremely effective full-flow washable coolant filtration setup.

[@sc358.]

Not sure why bypass filters (like AMSOIL makes or other manufacturers make for diesel applications) isn't more common - paired with a Wix racing or Wix XP depending on application.

[@TotalSeal]

Those bypass filters work great.

[@marktucker1651]

tottaly awesome. I tryed some of the A! ss filters back in the 90's on a tripple engine performance boat that got a lot of oil changes.I didnt like the look of the oil when changing it after using the filters for about a month & a half (about 3 oil changes) so i went back to the good ole paper filter.'s. about 800 hp perengine, normally aspirated) so yes your testing confirms what I knew was happening.. but that 10 hp loss you showed...wow!! thats a lot. I wish I were there for the teardown&inspection!! I was a performest machinest&builder,racer, dang I miss all that.

[@supercharged6771]

I feel a paper would be the way to go on a new engine for some time but after miles of break in thers minimal pieces thats where i use a system one wire type and my oil pressure goes way up which says some things about the filter and the bypass both

[@george1la]

Great information based again on scientific analysis. We need more of this level of education on facts, not fantasy. I recently learned how to stop cam, lifter failure on the fourth try. Use Diamond Like Coated lifters. It is a plasma spray, almost as hard as a diamond, and since made of carbon it is slippery. I guess it just polishes the cam and laps it into place. Lifters are about 55 Rockwell and cams about 55 Rockwell which is way below diamond. They are only $15.00 more than the normal lifters. I am 76. It was not fun doing it over and over and over again. It was also expensive as just gaskets and oil. plus filters can be $100.00 each time, then the time. What if you do it for a living, what happened to your income? Bye Bye is the answer. This information is also critical for power and longevity.

[@TotalSeal]

DLC works phenomenally!

[@johnwyman6126]

Did you use oil with zinc in it, or use a zinc additive? Flat tappet cam's need zinc in the oil. They took it out back in the day because it clogged up catalytic converters. This is why all engines today have roller lifters.

[@peskypeet]

I'm going to have to look into DLC coated lifters. Strange I haven't heard of that since flat tappet cam & lifter failures have been bad for probably 20 yrs now.

[@18_rabbit]

whoa!!!!? PLEASE clarify what exactly u mean by 'wire screen filter with synthetic media', bcuz that description is what many high end mainstream filters are, such as made by Purolator and all the other main mfr's. But those mostly do way less than 30, usually 20 or 25ish in micron/size. So i'd love so clarity on this, bcuz that term 'wire screen filter' will confuse some ppl for sure.

[@TotalSeal]

By wire screen, we are only referring to filters with a wire mesh screen only. We are not referring to a synthetic media with a wire screen backing.

[@jp-nq5wd]

@@TotalSeal glad you clarified that! I've been using a Wix XP filter and that has synthetic media with wire screen backing. Very through video, thanks!

[@jazzfreek54]

I was wondering about what they meant by a wire screen filter. I didn't know they existed, who makes them?

[@Mark-ei7yh]

@@TotalSeal wow, it took a lot of digging to find this important piece of info. So you are NOT dissing the Royal Purple, Wix XP, Fram Endurance / Titanium, etc type of wire-backed synthetic media filters. I bet I wasn’t the only viewer who thought you were. At 3:03 mark, you show 2 filters side-by-side, implying these represented each type you were comparing. Those both looked like pleated paper/cellulose/synthetic filters, and the viewer easily concludes one has a wire backing, not visible. As video progresses, it becomes clear, one type of filter is a disaster…but evidently not one of the two shown??? Great video, but with fatal flaw (unintended consequence??). Let me know if I’m wrong, I’ll withdraw my critique.

[@zenombereznicki]

I am a fsirly good DYI mechanic, and i have been changing oil for overv 40 years. Likely 100 oil.changrs. i never heard of "wire filter". WHY are u comparing to a filter that is hardly used. Not all paper filters are the same quality. Why didn’t u compare like WIX to Fram.Two very common paper filters with 2 different abilities to filter, according to few tests on internet.

[@RMartin631]

I have a 2003 Dixie Chopper 60" mower, with a Kohler CV745 fuel injected engine. The engine has 2610 hours on it. It is the equivalent of 156,600 miles on a car engine. In the late '90s and early '00s, Dixie Chopper installed Amsoil 1 micron bypass filters on most of their mowers. My mower still has great compression and doesn't burn any oil. I attribute this wholely to the Amsoil bypass filter. Can you guys run your same tests, but with a Amsoil bypass filter installed too?

[@TotalSeal]

Bypass filters absolutely make a huge difference!

[@dodgeramsport01]

Glad you tested the filter AFTER use not like the other youtube BOZO's who think you can judge a filter that has never been in use! Great job!

[@rickbrown7067]

I wish you would show the tear down and how much damage was done. Thanks

[@TotalSeal]

We are going to cover that in a future video.

[@arsinoeivlostprincess4228]

It's been 45 years since I saw a Cobra Le Mans valve cover. I don't believe I've ever seen another one. My 68 Shelby gt 500 conv had a set on the 428.

[@bobbygetsbanned6049]

So what brand of filter was the wire mesh filter? And how about paper vs the synthetic filter medias most companies are using these days.

[@cujet]

We regularly use screen type filters on aircraft hydraulic systems. Generally a 2 micron rating. A screen type oil filter with a 30 micron full flow section and a 2 micron section to eventually filter out the small stuff is entirely possible.

[@gordonborsboom7460]

Manufacturers use to recommend changing a filter EVERY OTHER OIL CHANGE I’m guessing that is no longer recommended

[@joejones4172]

I could never understand that. Why mix 1 qt of used oil with clean oil? I've always changed the filter and oil together.

[@jamesyarbrough4777]

an old mechanic told me thats like taking a shower and putting on dirty clothes.

[@randomlife718]

Reminds me of a 5.3 i put in a pickup a few years ago. I scraped all the rust out of the block and off the crank as I could. This was a "good" engine i bought off FB marketplace. I had to change the oil filter 3 times in the first 200 miles, first change was 7 miles in.

[@shoominati23]

Weighing out powders on a scale? Well one had to supplement their income during college, those engineering manuals get 'spensive man! 🤣

[@TotalSeal]

LOL!

[@1cnfour349]

Very very cool, informative…I considered a wire mesh for daily driving but not now

[@TotalSeal]

Glad it helped!

[@milesj6064]

First Happy late birthday Lake, I just saw this video today, also this was an interesting test to see how good the oil filter is. I have always wondered how good a filter does its job. I have also wondered what would happen if you left that filter installed and drained the oil and put a fresh batch of contaminated oil in, is there any filtering ability left in the filter to clean the new oil down to a better condition. I have heard of guys changing filters at half oil change and leave the oil in the engine as supposedly the new filter will clean out the stuff the old filter couldn't catch anymore. I have loved watching these videos, I am a technology nerd, so love to learn stuff, keep up the good work

[@TotalSeal]

Thanks for watching. Filters are always filtering some amount of particles. We think it is best to replace the filter when you replace the oil in order to remove those particles from the system completely.

[@tarquineous]

I just saw another test where the Amsoil screen backed, filtered best between 22 and 30 microns, but was slightly restrictive compared to the Purolator Boss screen backed. Which company makes the filter is another factor. Napa filters were all made by Wix at one time. But not any more. The Napa screen backed filtered tighter than the Wix XP in a recent test by Brand Ranks. Based on your test and what I have seen, I would use the paper/synthetic fiber filter and not go more than 4 to 5K miles on an oil change. Preferably with a bypass filter installed in addition to the factory filter.

[@bryancreagan5838]

Maybe you didn't realize this but I would think that we are all a bunch of gearheads. An engine on a dyno is music all by itself. Forget the background stuff. It's really annoying.

[@peskypeet]

Turning the background music down a notch would definitely help.

[@kellyd887]

I have a very powerful magnet that I stick to the side of the oil filter. My theory is, a lot of particles should stick to the inside of the can. Not only assisting in the cleaning process, but extending the time it takes to clog the filter media. Don.t know if it actually helps but it gives me a small measure of piece of mind.

[@TotalSeal]

Great tip!

[@4af]

If you cut open the filter you'll see there weren't "a lot of particles should stick to the inside of the can" An engine doesn't generate gritty particles to begin with.

[@benniestander2725]

Here is food for thought. If your oil filter bypass valve opens at say 16psi and you drive the car normally. The oil presssure remains below the bypass valve opening. If you drive a tad harder, now the filter is in bypass more than filter mode. So my question is this, how effective is your oil filter really?

[@03skunk]

There is pressure on both sides of the relief so it's actually a 16 PSI differential valve. As long as you are flowing well enough to not have 16 PSI difference across the media it won't bypass.

[@thisisyourcaptainspeaking2259]

The filter bypass for a small block Chevy is typically located in the filter housing, thus no need for an internal filter bypass in that case. Nice because you have the option of blocking it to force all the oil through the filter. Filter bypass valves help prevent filter damage in the case of high pressure delta such as cold starts.

[@EdPotter-dn5pc]

I love this channel. However need to be talking ISO cleanliness vs requirement for the engine.

[@randysrestoration]

Watch them all, always fun to watch. seldom comment . . Is that a 427 FE on the engine stand?

[@TotalSeal]

Thanks for watching. Yes, that was 427 FE on the dyno.

[@vica153]

Honestly slightly terrifying that there are people out there crazy enough to use a metal mesh oil filter on an engine...wtf might as well have been a test of with and WITHOUT an oil filter.

[@briankalagher6687]

This was awesome! So the paper filter caught all that Iron and the oil pressure was still OK? I would love to see this test with a synthetic media filter and cellulose? if that's any different than paper. Thanks for sharing!

[@TotalSeal]

Thank you!

[@yo_marc]

I agree - even doing the semi-controversial filter pre-fill, the new synthetic media flows much much better than cellulose at similar micron ratings. That makes me question: Are the micron ratings accurate? Do the synthetic filter hold less dirt before becoming clogged? Or are they truly a step above?

[@michellejohn695]

Agreed,makes no sense in not testing synthetic media filters.

[@dimmacommunication]

For my engine the best filter is Purflux , mostly Mahle/Kneckt , Hengst and other premium European manufacturers are top notch.

[@timrum7219]

Shut that music off even when you're talking and when the engine is running I want to hear the singing of that engine