Which One Of These Oil Filters RUINED This Engine?

[@92fsoakcreek]

The Standard "Dust" they refer to is actually "Arizona Road Dust". We worked for Pratt & Whitney making engines and fuel systems. Filter testing was always a part of each Engine qualification. In our case, we would mix up POUNDS of dust and kept it agitated in a drum to be pumped to the engine test cell. Pall Corporation is the leading manufacturer of fuel and oil filters for commercial aircraft engines.

[@TotalSeal]

Thanks for sharing!

[@richh1576]

The ASTM / SAE / OSU (Oklahoma State Univ.) - F1 particle test stand - specification for IC engines for many years 'was' 20 micrometers (µM) as the **most damaging particle**, now being upgraded to much lower µM by the more 'sophisitcated' engine manufacturers. Recirculating oil filters do not filter to 100% removal; but, are 'statistical reduction devices' ..... depending on how quickly these particles 'eventually' are retained. However most of these particals in nature have an electronic surface charge, and the filter media (resinated paper) are designed/selected to have the opposite electronic surface charge - electronic attraction. The faster (and more volume of oil) the contaminated recirculating oil flows 'through' a filter - so, the more efficient filter will have the larger amount of filter paper surface area for less pressure drop and more rapid 'turnover' of the oil in the sump. However due the surface charge effect of particles and filter media once thoroughly contaminated, the particles will tend to 'agglomerate' (stick/'clump') together into larger and larger and large particles - that is why one changes both the oil AND the filter AT or before the OEM recommended changeout interval ..... remembering that the OEM changeout interval was based on highway speed /steady state (cruise contol ON) driving. For non-steady state, stop and go city driving - change the oil at HALF the recommended interval (..... especially on IC engines that have 'loose tension' piston rings - virtually all IC engines since about 2010-12 due to their propensity to build up (from blow-by) carbon deposits 'behind' the piston rings and with tendancy for the now 'stuck' rings from moving; hence **stuck** engine piston rings and the higher probability of catastrophic cylinder wall wear !!!!). Rx: If predominantly (90%) driving 'highway speeds' follow the OEM changeout specification. For 'city driving' which involves a LOT accelerating and decelerating and idling ... change the oil an d filter at HALF the OEM changeout recommendation. Rx: Always choose the filter with the largest 'surface area' (number of pleates). USA, EU and Japanese filters are the choice .... and are typically supplied with a resinated filter paper from a single world supplier - Ahlstrom of Finland, or equivalent etc. .... stay away from Chinese, etc. made oil filters which are 'variable' and inconsistant in filter retention. However, NEVER choose an oil filter with a 'smaller/finer' µM retention specification ... as all you will do is SLOW DOWN the particle removal from the oil .... with MUCH LESS oil 'turnover' through the filter, Lastly, Changing the oil at or BEFORE the recommended changeout interval is one hell of a lot CHEAPER than changing prematurely to a NEW vehicle or replacement engine. I usually get ~200-300k+ miles from my IC engines (I rarely 'beat' my engines). Was a filtration engineer (Pall Corp, etc.) for ~30 years).

[@opera93]

Thanks… for sharing.. I am an old Car nut, DIYOURSELFER.

[@billm6294]

GM used to sell that dust in a large poly bottle with an AC Delco part number (maybe they still do?). We used it for a lot of different development tests.

[@18_rabbit]

@@richh1576re your ...."witha smaller/finer (size symbol) retention specification": i ask, than what? Most if not all filters available for sale here in the U.S of mainstream brands range tween 20 and 30 microns.

[@islandnites]

#1 cause of engine failure as I recall being a mechanic for some years - was nearly always coolant related. If a problem with cooling system didnt take out its engine - then it at least spelled out the the beginning of the end. Pay attention to cooling system!

[@TotalSeal]

Great point

[@LightsaberGoBrrrrrr]

I look at my temp gauge religiously. Actually, funny story - in my manual Civic, the speedometer doesn’t work. I was explaining to a coworker that I didn’t need the speedo to work, I didn’t need the gas gauge to work, I didn’t even need the tach to drive (you could feel out the shifts), but the one thing I absolutely needed to drive was the temp gauge. You have to know the second you start to overheat

[@Lukebarca]

Oof I might need to flush my coolant then.

[@LOVEisACTIONABLE]

​@@Lukebarcaif you don't like every 40k and you drive hard or in hot areas you will blow your head gasket and that can be worse than destroying your transmission.

[@Lukebarca]

@LOVEisACTIONABLE I got it done a few days after I saw this. It was dirty, and I just replaced the pump. I think coolant is overlooked by a lot of people.

[@beestoe993]

Filtration is tough. I ran a satellite diesel shop for a major trucking company and they decided to save money on oil by staying with conventional oils and regular oil changes. The reason is that even though the synthetic oils are up to the task of longer oil change intervals, filtration is not! The oil would still get too much contamination and require regular changes. I still service my cars by this same principle 20 years later.

[@kimballscarr]

Probably smart… I had a 1981 Benz 240D for 26 years put 226,000 miles on it used original filters and change oil every 1500 miles Chevron 400 plus 15w-40, my mother still has her 1985 Benz 300CD with 108,000 miles… like new. Changed oil same oil as above every 1000 miles. Got to remember lots of stop and go in LA. Why use that heavy duty truck petroleum oil… well Chevron made everything in the bucket… buy the 5 gal. Buckets from the local Chevron distributor in Santa Ana. They would fill the buckets from a huge 5000 gallon tank. About $40 a bucket then.

[@Airman..]

HBD Lake, i admire your enthusiasm guys Would like to see filter brands performance comparison from regular duty filter to full blown race filter

[@MuscleCarSolutions]

Good grief. This is the type of content that provides an actual test to the theory and empirical results. Excellent video!

[@TotalSeal]

Thanks!

[@duygukayhanisaskank4915]

@@TotalSeal THIS IS AWESOME...THANKS SOOOO MUCH guys!!!!

[@duygukayhanisaskank4915]

@@TotalSeal The BEST engine oil filter on the planet...in every aspect...is WIX-XP. Believe me, I've done extensive tests on every brand available to the average consumer. WIX-XP beats them all on every level. Best regards, Ben

[@pacbrian3809]

@@duygukayhanisaskank4915 what extensive tests? got a link to your video? research? white paper?

[@zeeosix]

The WIX XP isn't as efficient as many others on the market, and those other filters that are much more efficient also flow just as good as the WIX XP. Independent lab ISO 4548-12 testing proves that. It would have been nice to see that same particle count test done after running a filter that's rated at 99% efficient @ 20 microns and greater. The WIX XP is only around 62% efficient @ 20 microns and greater.

[@UnfinishedProjectDartSport]

I showed this video to my 30 year old push mower and it laughed.

[@TotalSeal]

LOL

[@steveolive9991]

...but his one year old car engine died.

[@mike3f0]

You win....

[@ethanshantz7401]

I showed this video to my Honda trike and it laughed

[@ChrisPatrick-q6k]

While burning your oil.

[@Wayne-n4z]

As a mechanical engineer I thought this test was great and quite educational to me. Thank you, good job, and please keep these coming. Besides the info, your presentations kept me interested.

[@TotalSeal]

Thank you!

[@Jacob99174]

As a human being, I also found this very educational! 👍🏾 Thanks

[@vikingmike8139]

Very informative. I went out to the shop and pulled off my steel mesh 45-micron filter and installed a WIX #57099 oil filter. This is on a .030" over bored 454 moderate street build. Five hundred and ten (510) horsepower on the dyno. Thanks, gentlemen and Cheers!

[@TotalSeal]

We are glad it helped!

[@L46C3]

Was it a WIx filter? He had a Napa Gold in his hand when they started. I didn't hear them say the brands tested? The Gold is 23 microns and enhanced cellulose.

[@vikingmike8139]

@@L46C3 Howdy, read my original post, the Wix number is there. If it helps the filter is the black one, Cheers!

[@peskypeet]

The Wix 57099 is so short. You must have space limitations.

[@SubGothius]

@@L46C3 Napa Gold is just a relabeled Wix.

[@davidstuck2866]

I would LOVE to see the engine damage caused by this test!!!

[@TotalSeal]

We will show that in a future video!

[@robertwest3093]

I'm gonna be on the lookout for that video!

[@thomasmleahy6218]

I've told you a million times not to exaggerate!!

[@chuckschillingvideos]

Guarantee you any damage will only be "observable" under a microscope and will require Lake's "expert" commentary to see.

[@ximan09]

STOP the Music when they are talking.

[@Onewheelordeal]

You were about 9 months late to stop anything lol

[@mnrodriguez]

@@Onewheelordeal ,lol

[@optimusprimer4392]

Engine porn music

[@themightydodge3862]

During the dyno pulls, too.

[@Krunch2020]

Stop whining. I can’t hear the music.

[@rangervapes571]

The synthetic media filters are even better not only with particulate matter but flow also. In my testing the Purolator Boss filter is a great filter

[@TotalSeal]

Thanks for sharing!

[@HMuny55]

Agreed. I like the BOSS or the Wix XP (also Napa platinum) for great flow, build quality, and filter material with robust backing

[@weirdowolfstudio5409]

@@HMuny55wix makes Napa filters

[@buymesomebooze]

Purolator Boss is the best filter made in my opinion.

[@DrJuan-ev8lu]

For filtration level, filtration capacity, pressure drop and percent bypass it is hard to beat Mobile one filters. Some people switch over to them on hydraulic oil systems where they outperform expensive micron rated filters.

[@stevenpressley5956]

Would be nice to see a FilterMag incorporated into one of the test. Have been using them for decades. I use a cutting tool made by FilterMag to cut open my used filters. You would be amazed at the amount of metallic sludge that is held to the sidewall of the filter can. Great content guys 👍🇺🇲👊

[@TotalSeal]

The FilterMag product works well. Both of these filters actually contained magnets, so there was some magnetic filtration occurring.

[@andymike6575]

In diesels the primary enemy is soot/ash in the 2-25 micron range which need a bypass filtration system to catch i.e. Amsoil EABP

[@naruttaanime9471]

I like that the magnet stays on the side instead of the end to keep anti drain back seal clear. This will reduce the clogging up of metal only near the magnet thus cutting off flow messing up the anti drain back valve

[@frankkeel8410]

Have a magnetic drain plug on my 77 vette and it works . It is one item I can not find for my new hybrid .America Ford .Who cells magnetic drain plugs?

[@bcbloc02]

If that is a flat tappet cam I bet the cam got hit hard. Paper filters are hard to beat for function. I see the same with air filters s good paper keeps things clean but takes a lot of surface area to not be restrictive. K&n style filters flow like crazy but let a lot of dirt go by

[@TotalSeal]

Absolutely!

[@mnrodriguez]

I've used K&N air filters for many years in my CR-V for more than 10 years without a problem.

[@arthurmroyce]

@@mnrodriguez Same here, but I clean them annually and re-oil them as the oil is part of the particle capture. I follow the instructions and don't over oil them ever. Never had an issue with a sensor (MAF) and I tend to keep my cars between 100k miles and 200k miles without any noticeable wear (oil usage).

[@arthurmroyce]

@@mikw1809 I used catch cans in all my cars so there is a little reduction.

[@glennhansel9411]

yep, hard pass on K&N air filters

[@mevio4665]

I knew it! The disturbed filter companies came for you. I noticed the mark on your neck made by their attacks. Glad that you are still alive to provide such a good content to make our cars live longer. Long live!

[@TotalSeal]

LOL

[@Sklit77002]

Fresh Oil ISO 16 27 Micron Paper Filter ISO 19 (17,000 particles removed, No Power Loss) 35 Micron Wire Mesh Screen Filter ISO 22 (4,000 particles removed, Lost 10HP in an Hour) Great work! Love the videos, keep'em coming!

[@TotalSeal]

Thank you!

[@Jeff-j9g]

Totally fascinating video, I am a territory manager for an auto parts chain and these videos are super helpful. Truly appreciate what you do.

[@multicyclist]

For consistency’s sake, it might be better to mix up a double batch of oil at the start instead of 2 separate batches to ensure both test will have the same particle level in the oil.

[@Ron_Masterjohn]

Lake Jr thank you for sharing all these awesome videos with great tests and information. My 2002 Suburban 5.3l with 163,000 miles has always had its oil changed at 5000 miles with full synthetic by Driven HR oil. Suburban runs super strong with awesome torque just like it was new and its stock as can be. Can’t even hear the thing idling when you stand 10 ft away from it. Can’t even feel it when it’s idling when I’m at a traffic light idling. a must keep that filter and oil clean. 😊

[@TotalSeal]

Right on!

[@rodneystacey1155]

car did 166000 miles before rust took it from me. Filter and oil changed every 2 years. 9-12k, save yourself some money

[@KaLeB_]

Tks so much, i liked the interation both of you had in the video....

[@TotalSeal]

Glad you enjoyed it!

[@danawilkes8322]

Years ago, we would add the bypass Franz type filter to the regular full flow filter system. We would check and change the filter in the Franz every thousand miles. On top of the filter element we could see what might be changing in the motor as far as wear. A couple of times we saw something that caused us to go in the motor and see what was going on. Is was a good thing we did. This helped prevent more damage to the motor, as the filter showed bearing material on one occasion. On all motors we built over the years, we would block the bypass in the housing where the filter would go on. You did not rev the motor when the oil was cold when you did this. This stopped all metal from doing any bearing damage from a camshaft losing a lobe, or other problem that could contaminate the oil.

[@TotalSeal]

Thanks for sharing!

[@markshaw3219]

Good stuff Guys!! Appreciate your work!

[@TotalSeal]

Our pleasure!

[@kevinmarshall184]

I saw no mention of the bypass valve that is used to make sure that is oil flow if filter gets clogged. this was famous in chevy vega when oil was too thick and cold , fitter would blow out the seal and leak all over ground. Also the chrysler slant six where the oil pressure was so low oil light would flash at idle. I remember being told at a Fram covention that oil filters only work up to 25-30 psi then bypass valve would allow unfiltered oil to continue through motor .

[@Resistculturaldecline]

Most modern filters bypass in the 10lbs - 20lbs range. But that differential pressure, not engine oil pressure

[@TheBrawlmastah]

I love how much fun you have with all the ooil and ooil applications

[@TotalSeal]

Absolutely!

[@jatoav8or]

Invaluable information, I subscribed after watching the first video. Look forward to seeing much more.

[@TotalSeal]

Awesome, thank you!

[@ashley.vanvleck]

Awesome testing!! Clear results!

[@ercost60]

Great video! Nice to see a bit calmer Lake Speed here. Happy Birthday!

[@TotalSeal]

Thank you very much!

[@RMartin631]

I have a 2003 Dixie Chopper 60" mower, with a Kohler CV745 fuel injected engine. The engine has 2610 hours on it. It is the equivalent of 156,600 miles on a car engine. In the late '90s and early '00s, Dixie Chopper installed Amsoil 1 micron bypass filters on most of their mowers. My mower still has great compression and doesn't burn any oil. I attribute this wholely to the Amsoil bypass filter. Can you guys run your same tests, but with a Amsoil bypass filter installed too?

[@TotalSeal]

Bypass filters absolutely make a huge difference!

[@georgedreisch2662]

Would have been interesting to record the pressure delta across the filter. Was the bypass disabled / eliminated? Back in the day, -70’s, with Chevy V-8’s, I’d generally disable / plug the filter pad bypass valve, and run the 2 quart truck filters, for the additional flow volume capacity. Sorry as I don’t recall the filter P/N, off the top of my head

[@TotalSeal]

The bypass was not disabled. When we cut the paper filter open, the pleats were not clogged. The 5 grams of powder was not enough to clog the filter media.

[@GNX157]

On your test rig, I’d like to see a sensor mounted on the bypass valve to measure when and for how long that valve is open, and a graph showing how much of the oil is not being filtered during normal operation. I know it’s open a lot, but I’d like to see you tell us how much.

[@martinlang9615]

In my recent engine replacement, I seriously considered a centrifuge like some truck/prime movers/mining engine put decided against it as it also is a moving part (which wears and eventually needs replacement), instead I change oil, first with a flush, then every 5000 klms use an antiwear additive with quality oil filter. As well I will only use quality fully synthetic oil. Then, every 50,000 klms I do a second flush with flushing agent (no antiwear added) and drive it 20 minutes at 100 klm/hr, then change it for the oil and antiwear additive for the next 5000 klms. The reason why I am so pedantic about this as I had a cracked piston on a 2007 Toyota LC Prado diesel 3.0 Turbo and Intercooled and want to do everything possible to avoid another failure. It shouldn’t happen as the pistons are not factory which have been the problem. I would have liked to use the total seal piston rings, but I didn’t know about them at that stage. Next time definitely. I might specify Mahle Motorsport pistons as well. Oh, I will no longer tow anything greater than a 700 kg box trailer. I believe towing the 2.4 ton full sized van contributed to the failure, however I was the second owner and I have no idea what they towed. The engine code is 1kD-FTV and it’s common for these around the world to crack pistons. It’s the pistons Toyota use that are the problem-they just can’t take the heat. I change my injectors every 150,000 klms, so that will not be the cause. I also use a fuel lubricity additive as well as a decarboniser in every tank. I have several digital gauges one is an EGT. I also have installed an Engine Guard which shows me the head temperature (thermocouple sensor) as well I have set the alarm at 90 degrees as an early warning. This model Engine Guard monitors the oil pressure with an alarm set as well. I don’t have an oil temperature gauge, which is my next project.

[@martinlang9615]

Oh, I have a Provent catch can installed, so this helps to keep the engine cleaner.

[@robnova19]

I mean this with the utmost respect. I love you, nerds. I am a nerd some days and a hard charger other days. But I love watching you guys geek out, and I love to geek out with you. Thanks for explaining things and exercising my brain.

[@rickw.9298]

These results were amazing, great job! Before you wrap up, give the old-school 'toilet paper roll' oil filter a test. You do recall the Franz filter don't you?

[@TotalSeal]

Thank you!

[@michaelbenardo5695]

Yup, they used to advertise "Never change your oil again".

[@Titan500J]

This looked interesting but I got bored in the middle however in the end my eyes were wide open and I was astonished. Absolutely wonderful video Thanks

[@TotalSeal]

Thanks for watching!

[@frankjones4094]

Interesting test fellas. How much residual iron do you thing was still in the engine after you drained it from the first test.

[@TotalSeal]

We flushed the engine with clean oil after the first test to remove as much residual as possible. The particle count after the first test showed that the vast majority of the iron was removed by the filter.

[@frankjones4094]

@@TotalSeal I see. Thank you

[@hotchihuahua1546]

Years ago on air cooled roller crank bikes they used screen filters along with centrifugal filters and a magnetic drain plug to capture particles in oil . The temperatures in those air cooled motors could reach 300 degrees . The engines carried only 2 quarts and this was conventional oil . Along with that the engine was sharing the oil with the transmission ! I never put more than 500 miles on the oil and cleaned the screen filter and magnets every time . Friends always wondered what I had done to make my bike run better than theirs ! lol It was my secret ! 😅

[@Comet-hn3gm]

Good test for those that don't know. 40 + years ago my older brother was all about the Oburg type oil filters. They did look cool. On the other hand, my gut feeling was they were more hype than they deserved. I have ALWAYS used a top of the line paper type oil filter for my street/strip cars and have had great success. Looking forward the the teardown.

[@TotalSeal]

Thank you!

[@kdsowen2882]

Agree totally , I was/am the same

[@CTSHOEBOX]

About 40 years ago I put an Oberg remote filter [with warning light] on my small block healthy built Ford. With 3 [three] micron screen. Approximately 45k miles since installation. Above 2k rpm 70 psi oil pressure before and now. Checked it after a few years when I discovered a bad set of roller rockers [design error] and valve springs shaving the aluminum retainers. Yes it was all in the filter; looked like aluminum paint. I don't know if 3 micron screens are available in any filters, smallest I've seen is 10. You can get the screen [industrial supply] if you want to make your own filters.

[@thomasroth4695]

Just for the heck of it a magnet on the filter can like the old timers would do Keep thinking bearing material in oil

[@Comet-hn3gm]

@@thomasroth4695 Absolutely. I use them on all the engines I build.

[@georgemccool5936]

Love the empirical testing that actually shows the truth. Thanks lake from an old gear head that back in the day ran havoline

[@TotalSeal]

Right on!

[@peterscully4961]

We used the screen filters back in the day on drag engines, where the oil was not in the engine very long. It was simply there to prevent chunks of bearing, rings etc. from being dragged through the engine, not really a filter.

[@TotalSeal]

Good point

[@stevebutler812]

It would be a good “screen” in other words? Not a filter- just a screen. Totally different purpose. You have a screen door. It ain’t a filter!

[@3cressidas]

What micron was the iron powder that you added to the oil?

[@jpw9898]

Clearly above the absolute value of the screen. Also note they didn't come up with some form of flush for the test. The screen went second. Run a third test with a paper filter. Cumulative particulate... sizes... lots left out of this test.

[@lanwickum]

As a former diesel mechanic and now a farmer with my own equipment. Oil and filters I will NOT get cheap on. Clean good oil is key to longevity of most anything. It is almost never additives that prolong life.

[@bridgetv68]

We appreciate what you guys do. Thank You so much!

[@TotalSeal]

Our pleasure!

[@philllsxga.7737]

Great video, in my family we our on our 16 th 300,000 mile GM.. the current vehicle has 338,000 miles on it right now. Every engine has had the cheapest oil filter OR an AC Delco.. nothing else and we have never had an internal engine problem.. not one...

[@TotalSeal]

Thanks for sharing

[@georgehofgren6123]

Excellent anecdote.... also shows that these guys are Beyond OCD with this nonsense 🙄 😒 😑

[@MikeC-g8f]

Which GM engines? Older 5.3’s, 3800’s, 4.3’s ?

[@philllsxga.7737]

@@MikeC-g8f yes. 3.8s, 4.3s 3.3, an iron dude almost made 300k! And 5.3s. All ran like new but the vehicles were rusty..

[@tarquineous]

I just saw another test where the Amsoil screen backed, filtered best between 22 and 30 microns, but was slightly restrictive compared to the Purolator Boss screen backed. Which company makes the filter is another factor. Napa filters were all made by Wix at one time. But not any more. The Napa screen backed filtered tighter than the Wix XP in a recent test by Brand Ranks. Based on your test and what I have seen, I would use the paper/synthetic fiber filter and not go more than 4 to 5K miles on an oil change. Preferably with a bypass filter installed in addition to the factory filter.

[@patrickmoore1017]

Fantastic video. Very very informative!

[@TotalSeal]

Glad it was helpful!

[@marktucker1651]

tottaly awesome. I tryed some of the A! ss filters back in the 90's on a tripple engine performance boat that got a lot of oil changes.I didnt like the look of the oil when changing it after using the filters for about a month & a half (about 3 oil changes) so i went back to the good ole paper filter.'s. about 800 hp perengine, normally aspirated) so yes your testing confirms what I knew was happening.. but that 10 hp loss you showed...wow!! thats a lot. I wish I were there for the teardown&inspection!! I was a performest machinest&builder,racer, dang I miss all that.

[@dudeman8323]

Cool beans. Ran Fram HP4 filters for 750,000 miles with Rotella oil... still going strong with 12 to 20k change intervals. Duramax LLY.

[@chuckschillingvideos]

Oh, boy you just narrowly escaped engine death!

[@dudeman8323]

@@chuckschillingvideos narrowly 😂😂

[@Chilllybob]

Great video. I was thinking of getting a reusable metal screen filter for my harley instead of the paper filters. After watching this video Im sticking with the disposable paper can filters.

[@TotalSeal]

We are glad to help!

[@MrsSunshine75]

Excellent test, thank you so much guys, keep up the good work, we’re all getting to learn from and with you!

[@TotalSeal]

Our pleasure!

[@terryvincent8405]

I've been using Canton Mecca filters for decades....spin on in my truck and remote housing on my fun car. Both filters are 8 micron and do not go into bypass. Well worth the investment!

[@oscaracme]

How much filtering occurs when the filter bypass is open on the paper filter vs. screen filters that have no bypass?

[@TotalSeal]

Apparently quite a bit as the paper filter removed way more of the iron powder than the wire screen filter.

[@PianoTuningArtist]

Great video!! Thanks for posting! I've been using Amsoil oil filters over 30+ years. FYI: "AMSOIL Oil Filters provide a filtering efficiency in accordance with industry standard ISO 4548-12 of 99 percent at 20 microns - one of the best ratings on the market. Some competitors also claim 99 percent efficiency, but at larger particle sizes of 30 to 40 microns."

[@derickmorgan4956]

On iron particles how well do you think a magnet would help ?

[@daledavies2334]

Caterpillar has or had a magnetic filter with a brass strainer in their hydraulic system. When you pulled it out there was always fine particles on it from wear. Like dust. What you looked for was slivers or bits that were larger indicating a larger problem.

[@TotalSeal]

The spring on the Wix filter is magnetic, and the wire screen filter also had a magnet. As such, both tests had a magnet helping with the filtration.

[@daledavies2334]

@@TotalSealThe magnets do help to remove ferrous metal from the oil. The fine particles with oil in the magnetic field gets almost like grease. The prìncipal for the magnahelic shocks.

[@derickmorgan4956]

@@TotalSeal did not know that about the spring . Are most filters this way or just six ?

[@TotalSeal]

@@derickmorgan4956 Can't say. We know the Wix/NAPA filters do.

[@networth9151]

I have used Supertech Oil filters and Supertech Synthetic Oil from Walmart for decades in all my vehicles with no oil-related issues. I have my oil tested at Blackstone at 5000 mile intervals with no degradation.

[@1967friend]

Would have really liked to actually see the bearings, cam, pistons, rings, and cylinder walls. It lost power, so there has to be wear/damage somewhere that’s likely visible or measurable.

[@TotalSeal]

The Napier hook on the 2nd ring was completely worn off!

[@sc358.]

​@@TotalSealgood stuff. So more surface are in contact with the bore cuz the 2nd ring was worn? I've gotta 383 I built 16yrs ago, gotta tear it down cuz last person opened it up and didn't seal it properly (oil leak). I might just chuck that 2nd ring and just use a gapless top with no second. Mile wide 5/64 setup. Lots of cycles on the thing so may decide to rebuild and go 1mm or sub package which is what I should do. Probably do the former first just for fun 😅 (mine, not built for someone else).

[@TotalSeal]

@@sc358. If you remove the 2nd ring, you will gain horsepower and oil consumption, LOL. We wouldn't recommend it.

[@seijirou302]

Those steel filters advertised as oil filters are absolute junk for filtering oil, but they are amazing at filtering coolant! One of those, plus a "remote oil filter relocation" kit (you only use half of it) make a very inexpensive yet extremely effective full-flow washable coolant filtration setup.

[@TheLonesometoad]

Would there be a major difference between the paper filter media and synthetic filter media?

[@TotalSeal]

As long as the beta ratio of the filters were the same, the results should be very similar.

[@TheLonesometoad]

@@TotalSeal : So, in other words, save the money and just use the standard Wix instead of the XP.

[@sc358.]

​@@TheLonesometoadthe paper one was a Napa Gold so fairly similar to Wix XP (both made by Wix unless something's changed)

[@flynlow43]

@@TheLonesometoad I had the exact same question. I just yesterday bought an XP to try, I've been using the standard Wix. Hope I didn't make a mistake.

[@flynlow43]

@@sc358. Wix XP is a white synthetic material, the regular Wix is the brownish paper... I 'think'?

[@milesj6064]

First Happy late birthday Lake, I just saw this video today, also this was an interesting test to see how good the oil filter is. I have always wondered how good a filter does its job. I have also wondered what would happen if you left that filter installed and drained the oil and put a fresh batch of contaminated oil in, is there any filtering ability left in the filter to clean the new oil down to a better condition. I have heard of guys changing filters at half oil change and leave the oil in the engine as supposedly the new filter will clean out the stuff the old filter couldn't catch anymore. I have loved watching these videos, I am a technology nerd, so love to learn stuff, keep up the good work

[@TotalSeal]

Thanks for watching. Filters are always filtering some amount of particles. We think it is best to replace the filter when you replace the oil in order to remove those particles from the system completely.

[@sc358.]

Not sure why bypass filters (like AMSOIL makes or other manufacturers make for diesel applications) isn't more common - paired with a Wix racing or Wix XP depending on application.

[@TotalSeal]

Those bypass filters work great.

[@jmflournoy386]

Magnetic drain plug? Tried the blackie carbon test? How does the oil pump look?(wear before the filters?)

[@TotalSeal]

Both filters had magnets in them. The drain plug had the oil temp probe in it.

[@jmflournoy386]

@@TotalSeal thanks were the magnets loaded What would best rings to replace Sealed powerfile fit ductile moly 1/16 top on mopar 6 pack piston I have access to my old CK 10 build is 40 years old my motorhome D dish 9:1 .030 quench JONES cam

[@TotalSeal]

If you are using the old pistons, contact our tech support team with the ring groove dimensions. They can recommend the appropriate ring set. 623-587-7400

[@benniestander2725]

In South Africa there is a filter brand, GUD. Been using them for years. Never a problem. Actually cut some of them open and compared to the equivalent Hyundai and Toyota filters. They were superior in every respect. And had alot more filter media in them too

[@18_rabbit]

yep, dusty areas require far more attention to filtering everything from oil to air.

[@averyalexander2303]

Wow, incredible results! I expected the paper filter to work better than the wire filter, but I never could have guessed that the difference would be so dramatic. It would also be cool to see oil filter magnets and magnetic drain plugs tested to see how effective they are. I've always used magnetic drain plugs for everything and magnets on the oil filter for piece of mind and they definitely catch particles, but it would be cool to see actual data.

[@TotalSeal]

Thanks for watching. Both filters actually contained magnets, so there was some level of magnetic filtration as well.

[@averyalexander2303]

@@TotalSeal Wow, did the filters come with the magnets? I'm not sure about the metal filters, but I've never seen a paper filter include a magnet unless you guys added them. Also, it would have been interesting to see what the magnets captured in this test IMO.

[@TotalSeal]

@@averyalexander2303 Yes, both filters actually came with magnets installed. Unfortunately, we did not take any video of the magnets after the tests.

[@averyalexander2303]

@@TotalSeal Wow, interesting. I'm surprised that just having a magnet in the wire screen filter didn't remove more of the iron particles. Maybe using a magnet that wraps around nearly the entire outside of the filter like Filtermags would have been more effective since it would directly expose a lot of the oil flow to the magnetized filter can.

[@arthurmroyce]

I used to use magnets, but with all aluminum engines I wonder how much iron is really in there? My older engines would show some particles when they were new and then clean-up.

[@billymitchell4722]

Please do the same test with a large filter magnet installed. Thx

[@bobbygetsbanned6049]

So what brand of filter was the wire mesh filter? And how about paper vs the synthetic filter medias most companies are using these days.

[@briankalagher6687]

This was awesome! So the paper filter caught all that Iron and the oil pressure was still OK? I would love to see this test with a synthetic media filter and cellulose? if that's any different than paper. Thanks for sharing!

[@TotalSeal]

Thank you!

[@yo_marc]

I agree - even doing the semi-controversial filter pre-fill, the new synthetic media flows much much better than cellulose at similar micron ratings. That makes me question: Are the micron ratings accurate? Do the synthetic filter hold less dirt before becoming clogged? Or are they truly a step above?

[@michellejohn695]

Agreed,makes no sense in not testing synthetic media filters.

[@johnsalvaterra3116]

Good video gentlemen! Another variable, direct injection, I've read and been told by a lubrication engineer , direct injection creates some soot, and requires, more frequent oil changes. I have noticed that the oil in direct injection engines, does seem, to get darker, in fewer miles.

[@TotalSeal]

Thanks, and that is correct. There’s both soot and extra fuel dilution from DI engines.

[@TonyTundra5.7]

The oil coming out of Hondas 1.5 turbo after 2500 miles is black with heavy gasoline smell. We traded that 22 CRV in to get Toyotas 4.0 N/A 4runner.

[@arthurmroyce]

The factory manual for my GDI turbo specifies an OCI of 3k miles. When you look at the oil it needs to be changed by then. I monitor the oil in all of our GDI engines and I do keep the change interval shorter.

[@MikeyAlbertin]

Great information and video. Thanks guys.

[@TotalSeal]

Our pleasure!

[@chrisyoung5363]

OUTSTANDING effort gentlemen ! :)

[@TotalSeal]

Thanks!

[@ericrosales9722]

hi. I got an oil filter cartridge for a 2007 huynda santa fe. I noticed 3 of the pleats on the filter look like they were knicked by something about 1mm wide so that there's possibly 3 holes, each 1mm in diameter on the affected area. I cant really see with the slight fuzz on the filter media if there are indeed holes but assuming there are, would they likely significantly affect the filtering effectivness til the next oil change?

[@cpftank09]

Fantastic test!!! I’ve never liked the steel mesh filters mainly because you never really know if you have it clean before reinstalling it, let alone the lack of filtration like you have shown here.

[@TotalSeal]

Thank you!

[@communityracecar]

Love your work fellas! ❤

[@TotalSeal]

Glad you enjoy it!

[@mikegoncz7628]

I see it is just over a year ago but what Oil and Grade was used, just curious.

[@supercharged6771]

I feel a paper would be the way to go on a new engine for some time but after miles of break in thers minimal pieces thats where i use a system one wire type and my oil pressure goes way up which says some things about the filter and the bypass both

[@bladengutz2042]

Amazing Results Thank you Guys for sharing

[@Aleksandar6ix]

One thing that was missing for me was how to identify which type of filter you are buying, especially in relation to brand. I would love to see a filter teardown so we can see what's good what isn't. (Eg: fram vs Mobil 1 vs Mann)

[@TotalSeal]

The wire screen filters are not typical of what is found at a parts store.

[@johnwyman6126]

@@TotalSeal Were those hydraulic filters?

[@peskypeet]

​@@mikw1809 What specific line of Fram filters are you talking about? Can you point a person to this test?

[@betterMatt2]

Ive never heard of a screen filter, im a bit concerned that its the same as a synthetic media filter... Can you give some more specific info on the filters you used?

[@jenslarsson2333]

Great video As a swede iam a bit lost in translation. Wire screen is that what is called syntethic filter on bitog?

[@TotalSeal]

Thanks for watching. The wire screen is a metal filter not a synthetic.

[@OHUQTU]

How does your iron test powder stay in suspension? Or does it?

[@TotalSeal]

It does when the engine is running

[@zenombereznicki]

I am a fsirly good DYI mechanic, and i have been changing oil for overv 40 years. Likely 100 oil.changrs. i never heard of "wire filter". WHY are u comparing to a filter that is hardly used. Not all paper filters are the same quality. Why didn’t u compare like WIX to Fram.Two very common paper filters with 2 different abilities to filter, according to few tests on internet.

[@racerd9669]

I did not see any place in your video, where you removed the filter bypass. Was it still in the filter adapter?

[@TotalSeal]

The bypass was in place.

[@racerd9669]

So you are only filtering about 40% of the oil?@@TotalSeal

[@maxenielsen]

What’s the particle size distribution of the magnaflux powder?

[@stephenhowe4683]

What difference would a magnet on the filter make?

[@TotalSeal]

Both filters actually have magnets in them.

[@anthonyaguiar4583]

Love you guys and the knowledge you pass on thx. My question is 2016 ram 6.7 cummins 4th gen 1st owner did factory maintenance at dealer til 60k so 15k intervals. Then i bought it 63k miles start with mopar filters oil Rotella synthetic changes at 10k intervals. Have 98k on it now. Should i do a Valvoline Premium Blue or Valvoline restore to clean motor. I started changing oil filter changes at 90k miles every 5k miles now since I watched your content. Since cummins test their engines with Valvoline, should i stop with Rotella synthetic and which oil filter would you guys recommend. Thank you for any help with fuel additives, too. Driiving 50 50 highway/city 5th wheel 16k lbs and flat bed 4k lbs city in SC.

[@randysrestoration]

Watch them all, always fun to watch. seldom comment . . Is that a 427 FE on the engine stand?

[@TotalSeal]

Thanks for watching. Yes, that was 427 FE on the dyno.

[@andyguest6543]

Is the methanol sparying on the temp sensor and could this also be affecting the reported temp? Fantastic video though, would love to see more of you working on this system and the van

[@robertwest3093]

That 427 FE sounds as good as any engine I've ever heard run on a dyno! Does it use a lightweight rotating assembly and high compression pistons? I mean that engine gets from one end of the rpm range to the other as quick as any other engine I've come across.

[@dh2360]

Very cool video, enjoy seeing the data you collect and share.

[@TotalSeal]

Glad you enjoyed it

[@benniestander2725]

Here is food for thought. If your oil filter bypass valve opens at say 16psi and you drive the car normally. The oil presssure remains below the bypass valve opening. If you drive a tad harder, now the filter is in bypass more than filter mode. So my question is this, how effective is your oil filter really?

[@03skunk]

There is pressure on both sides of the relief so it's actually a 16 PSI differential valve. As long as you are flowing well enough to not have 16 PSI difference across the media it won't bypass.

[@thisisyourcaptainspeaking2259]

The filter bypass for a small block Chevy is typically located in the filter housing, thus no need for an internal filter bypass in that case. Nice because you have the option of blocking it to force all the oil through the filter. Filter bypass valves help prevent filter damage in the case of high pressure delta such as cold starts.

[@dougankrum3328]

...Those naughty Microns.....My last employment I was the Maintenance Manager...lots of hydraulic stuff...when I bought new oil filters (look and often fit exactly like automotive filters), the choices I usually had were...3, 5 or 10 microns.... Of course they are very expensive...about $$10X the price of a good auto filter....the previous guy had used a big 'engine' oil filter to try saving money...they'd crack/split and lose a lot of oil...quite a mess...the Cost of the correct filter...about $100....cleaning up oil and refilling the hydraulic tank? Certainly more than that..and....I often replaced the cylinder piston seals and moving pressure/seal parts that were exposed ... I think the 'auto' type filters the guy had been getting were something like 40-50 Microns... This was 12-13 years ago....prices have probably gone up...

[@robrobb4034]

It would be great if he rated the top 5 oil filters in 10 minutes ,Versus a 25 minute sermon.

[@100kwatt_Neville_Goddard]

AMEN

[@anjbum]

Scroll on by, just scroll on by

[@DENicholsAutoBravado]

It took them a week to do this testing, but you want it in 10 minutes?

[@mechwatchdog]

@@DENicholsAutoBravadoThe old story about the old mechanic revising his bill to show: Time tapping machine with hammer $1, Knowing where to tap $999 reinforces the fact that time isn’t the measure of value. Some people can talk forever and not say anything. TikTok is living proof views and influence (and therefore ad $) has zero to do with length of content.

[@tradingnichols2255]

​@@mechwatchdogyes, and some users wanted to watch how the engine performed with all that metal. Some may even go back to each test and snap picks of the graph and see if they could see a statistical change. Could it have been made more entertaining by being shorter? Maybe, but people wanting to learn to the maximum would be disappointed.

[@rodreeves65]

In the late 60's, when we rebuilt diesel engines for UPS, we sprinkled Babo into the intakes to seat the rings.

[@george1la]

Great information based again on scientific analysis. We need more of this level of education on facts, not fantasy. I recently learned how to stop cam, lifter failure on the fourth try. Use Diamond Like Coated lifters. It is a plasma spray, almost as hard as a diamond, and since made of carbon it is slippery. I guess it just polishes the cam and laps it into place. Lifters are about 55 Rockwell and cams about 55 Rockwell which is way below diamond. They are only $15.00 more than the normal lifters. I am 76. It was not fun doing it over and over and over again. It was also expensive as just gaskets and oil. plus filters can be $100.00 each time, then the time. What if you do it for a living, what happened to your income? Bye Bye is the answer. This information is also critical for power and longevity.

[@TotalSeal]

DLC works phenomenally!

[@johnwyman6126]

Did you use oil with zinc in it, or use a zinc additive? Flat tappet cam's need zinc in the oil. They took it out back in the day because it clogged up catalytic converters. This is why all engines today have roller lifters.

[@peskypeet]

I'm going to have to look into DLC coated lifters. Strange I haven't heard of that since flat tappet cam & lifter failures have been bad for probably 20 yrs now.

[@johndeere1951a]

Filter media life. I worked for BMW while they transitioned from 3-5,000 mile Conventional oil chg. intervals to Synthetic oil and 15,000/ oil condition service indicator light intervals. The plain BMW cellulose-based oil filters quickly hardened, collapsed, cracked and broke up . Then quickly BMW (Mann) filters contained a Synthetic media to last the ridiculous BMW Free Maintenance intervals. Its amazing how many leasing customers refused to bring cars in even once a year for free oil changes. The engines were sludge boxes after 30k to 45k miles. Warranty canceled, all claims denied. Customers pays for stupidity and engine overhaul. Pkease conduct an oil filter comparison. Its ss important ss the oil it self . Congratulations on this great channel. A lubricants gold standard. 🛢️💦👍👍👍👍👍🏆

[@otpyrcralphpierre1742]

I love engines so much that it's hard for me to even WATCH an engine pushed to destruction.

[@TotalSeal]

We understand!

[@BorisEkner]

Great video! - What’s your opinion on magnetic drain plugs?

[@wrstew1272]

My dad bought a 327 Chevy engine from a fleet mechanic. He rebuilt it, and for the initial start dribbled a handful of Comet cleanser down the carburetor. Freaked me out to hear that! His philosophy was that the driver was not going to adhere to break in instructions, so a bit of real fine abrasive would seat the rings. He had an excellent test bed of about a hundred trucks being driven by “don’t care how long it lasts “ operators and no negative consequences. Go figure 😂

[@joeheinzle]

yikes!

[@outwiththem]

Nahh. I just put a bucket of sand after the air filter..

[@jw4620]

Very interesting!

[@kevindoherty2716]

Pretty stupid !! If the mechanic honed the cylinders properly for the rings used in the rebuild there shouldn't be any problem with the rings seating.. It's amazing how millions of new cars with new engines leave automotive plants every year and make it fine and working properly by just starting them and delivering them to the dealers without a hitch but mechanics come up with all kind of crazy scenarios and theories about what isn't going to happen properly and insist on finding solutions to imaginary problems and sabotage their own work and customer vehicles.

[@billbarney4937]

@@kevindoherty2716 its not always the person working on the car. you have very poor workmanship performed at some machine shops that cut corners to make more money. ive had subpar machining work done at two different shops. there is no way to prove they did wrong unless you tear apart the motor and get in their face and even then no guarantee youll get satisfaction

[@Fritzcoinc]

Ok, I get this intentional addition of iron particles in the oil to test filter types but what about the addition of magnetic filtration for everyday drivers? For the hydraulic systems we design at work, we use a 60 lb pull-weight magnet on the bottom of the metal spin-on filters, and the addition of the magnet traps a lot of wear metal in the filter can outside the filter media.

[@DonziGT230]

I was pretty sure the wire filter would do very poorly in this test, as it would in a normal real world driving environment. Very few manufacturers use them, that alone is a bit of evidence to avoid them. For a wire filter to filter down to 4 microns it would have to be huge to not become a flow restriction, it would also require precise manufacturing so it would be very expensive. Many people don't understand that the micron rating on most filters is a "nominal rating"; meaning that it will let some larger particles through, but will also catch a lot of particles much smaller than the rating. A wire filter is going to catch very few particles below its rating, and most likely pass some that are larger than the rating.

[@feedrate1]

Totally love this channel. Thank you for your time and info. I believe in what you are doing!!!!!🤘🤘🤘

[@TotalSeal]

Awesome! Thank you!

[@gidderman]

So this was a piston ring test video, not much of an oil filter comparison. Even though you are calling a standard Cellulose Filter "Depth Media", it really more or less face loads compared to a true microglass filter or synthetic microglass which would have substantially more "depth" available to filter the contaminants. Your Comparison of a 27 Micron Cellulose Filter to a "Screen" Filter may hold some weight in racing applications but has absolutly zero impact on peoples daily drivers and those looking to clean up sludgy old engines with, Say, Valvolines new Restore and Protect Oil... Just sayin, this video doesnt really apply to 99.9% of people when it comes to a "filter comparison". I get why you did it, but 24:06 seconds of my life have evaporated and there wasnt much substance...

[@giacominam1965]

In the power and torque graph, the red line corresponds to which type of filter?

[@TotalSeal]

The red line is the wire screen filter. The blue line is the paper media filter.

[@jeffbonifield8981]

Another eye opener….Thanks guys😎

[@TheThirdWheel618]

Thank you for all the great videos im suprised at some of the results amazing information. I have a question about oil i hope im in the right place? 😊 I have a 69 Ford 390 truck engine it has 8,000 miles on rebuilt i use Royal Purple HPS 10W30 my oil pressure is around 15 at idle 650RPM and fwy speeds 50psi. The place I buy my oil was out of Royal Purple but they had Z Rod Amsoil so i tried it my oil pressure went way up it was in the 30/40 at a idle and 55/60 fwy speeds it seemed to go down after the engine was full temp 180/190 although i noticed leaky gaskets as well . I only drove it a few times i use Wix XP oil filter im thinking of draining it and going back to RP HPS is it the oil that makes that big of a change ? I took pride that my 390 didnt leak oil since there known to be leakers not happy with the results from ZRod .