Oiler Repair: McCulloch Eager Beaver Super 2318av

[@matthijsverweijmeren6114]

Indeed the oiler worm gear is probably slipping on the crankshaft. Use loctite blockpress to fix it on the shaft. Second possible issue is the oiltankvent which is I think your problem. You can check this by running the chainsaw and open the oiltank cap a bit such that air can come in. If it starts oiling there is your issue. Other possible prolem block oil line screen.

[@steadyeddie7453]

Congrats, you finally saw the missing spring tensioner. There are also felt washers missing but they wont cause the pump not to work. Also, the gas and oil tanks are one piece units. The reason they leak (my experience) is because the cork gaskets in the caps get hard and crushed, losing their ability to seal. Then people crank the caps tighter trying to stop the leaks. The oil tank cap especially will then pull so hard on the tank threads that the strain cracks the tank around the threads. If you see the oil cap touching the raised lip on the case you need to replace the cork gasket. And last, I didn't see you check that the oil hole in the back of the bar was clear. Maybe you did off camera. Ok last last, if its a Mac bar the nose end has a tiny hole on each side for greasing the nose sprocket. Cheers.

[@gregwein1]

Has to be the worm gear. On Stihls, there is a small tab on the chain drive that physically pushes a bellows pump. If you didn’t know about, you’d never know why your oiler isn’t working. My point is that it is a fiddly, tight-clearance kind of mechanism. Same problem here… Your oiler pump has marks on it, so something is rubbing it - but not driving it. The difference could be 1/64th of an inch! BTW, make sure the oil hole on your bar isn’t clogged. I bet you knew that, but just in case… Thanks for the video! A buddy gave me his, with parts and loose screws in a bag. Seeing you break yours down was a huge help for me to get mine back together! It might even start when I’m done…

[@steadyeddie7453]

As he figured out, the spring tensioner was missing. The worm is a slip fit on the crank and relies on spring tension only to drive the pump. I've had to stretch them to get consistent oil flow. I also did not see him check the bar holes, maybe he did off camera. They're not bad saws for the price. You just have to know what to look for. And on those Stilh's it can be easy to miss lining up the witness mark on the clutch drum with the wire tab that drives the pump. Sounds like you have been there. Cheers

[@steadyeddie7453]

When you start the saw you should leave the chain brake off. The throttle is locked on high so the clutch is trying to drive the chain with the brake on. You have all the other start up procedures correct.

[@jameslyons6196]

I would say check the oil tank strainer line if the oil flow from that.

[@Ralphie5023]

No glasses , no face shield , no protection ?

[@thespiritof76..]

Makes you wonder why a successful company would would drastically change a design in such a way you would just assume throw there damn saw away rather than put it back together……. I have an eager beaver . Strong little saw, but the one 7/16 nut on the bar, and having to take the clutch and bar cover off just to see if your getting 🔥 is insanity… The Architects and engineers of the design should be taken out into the field and horsewhipped

[@gregwein1]

Horsewhipping is to goof for them… Slow fire on their feet, perhaps?

[@Ralphie5023]

You talk WAY WAY too much !