Oliver 1755 Clutch Installation

[@craigmiller4259]

Just wondering the input shaft on the over under unit. The spline on the shaft get worn. Found they are next to impossible to find replacement shafts. I had to have mine built up and machined to get back in business. Enjoy the videos very informative Chris! Thanks

[@ThatOliverGuyChris]

I thought they were still available from Agco, but spendy.

[@craigmiller4259]

@@ThatOliverGuyChris the few dealers we called said they were listed at $2000,but not available. Even used ones were non existent. Everyone just told us good luck on finding one!

[@ThatOliverGuyChris]

@@craigmiller4259 wow! That's good to know! I had to replace the countershaft in the 3 speed of my 4-225 quite a few years ago. No used ones to be found and it took over 6 months to get a new one.

[@craigmiller4259]

@@ThatOliverGuyChris yep,better stay on the good side of a skilled machinist!

[@scruffy6151]

I worked on the automotive side of repairs after watching some tractor repair video's i was working on the wrong iron lol. Thank you for the video. Ps dielectric grease is a most on electronic connection.

[@burningdinosaurs]

Ha! I'm with you there! My dad used to have a tractor repair shop, but he wouldn't hardly work on our own vehicles. Among other reasons, he found standing NEXT TO a tractor, vs leaning OVER an automobile, was way easier to work on. As I work more and more on each, I tend to agree with him more and more lol!

[@ThatOliverGuyChris]

I try to do my own auto repair, and have helped a few friends. Wheeling under a car or leaning over the side is not nearly as fun as working on an Oliver.

[@bigfoot-wo3qy]

I always thought about doing some of these help videos. Thank you for making the effort.

[@burningdinosaurs]

You should! I would watch. I'm sure others would too. Somebody may learn a tip or trick from you even if they've already done it 100 times before!

[@ThatOliverGuyChris]

There's always something to learn. I should have started these 2 years ago when I worked on Bolte's 1655. There wasn't much I didn't work on for that one. Plus I figure if I get enough viewers, I'll be able to figure out wht im doing wrong! Lol!

[@bigfoot-wo3qy]

I have a ton of hours of video from many shop projects. Like the 2-180 exhaust work and turbo/return boot change on a 1955. Probably 10 big cards full just building the 88 puller. Lots of other odds and ends.

[@ThatOliverGuyChris]

Sounds like you just need to edit it together. I've done all my editing on my cell phone, usually while waiting for my daughter at dance class. I use an app called videoshop. The free version has a lot of features and minimal ads.

[@bigfoot-wo3qy]

I’ve been thinking about getting the computer fixed and getting on some editing. Will see.

[@donneuharth9495]

Thank you for the tutorial. As to the greaseable throw out bearings, I have a late model 1755 (build date 1974) and I see it has a grease fitting dangling from a tube that drops out of the bottom of the clutch housing. Is this possible a replacement unit installed at some point before I got the tractor? Any insight you could provide would be helpful.

[@ThatOliverGuyChris]

Sounds like someone added that on. Everything is interchangeable, it's just a matter of swapping in the greasable parts for the non greasable.

[@richardpeoples2887]

Did the fretting on the crankshaft concern you? Did you look at the mating face on the flywheel? We are working on a 1750 that has broken the bolts and the dowel pins, there is lots of fretting on the crankshaft and the flywheel.

[@ThatOliverGuyChris]

I guess it didn't.

[@andrewwagner7992]

I have a White 2-85 that I'm putting the over/under back together for the 2nd time. I didn't get it right the first go around and it immediately scorched the direct clutch pack when I started the tractor, so now I'm all back apart doing the 2nd repair. I went to do a pressure check by the tech manual and it says to blow air into the overdrive and direct clutch ports while turning the input shaft. When you put air into either port, you can no longer turn the input shaft by hand, and it is like you're putting the brakes on. I had a neighbor who worked at a White dealer years ago come install my sprag clutch and he pressed it into the sun gear shaft, but that is not how the White tech manual says to install it exactly. I took the unit back apart, and are soaking my overdrive and direct clutch plates in hydraulic oil overnight as opposed to just soaking them in the moment before installation. I've been told there is an exact alignment in which the plates are to be installed, but closely looking at each plate, I can't spot any immediate differences with the exception of the overdrive plates having a different pattern on the facing material on each side. The book only says to go clutch friction plate/seperator plate every other one in the stacks, and I've done that. I'm somewhat stumped.

[@ThatOliverGuyChris]

Is your sprag in the correct direction? It could be causing the problem you are having if it is in backwards.

[@andrewwagner7992]

@@ThatOliverGuyChris When I looked at the sprag myself to install it, I was uneasy of the book explanation and which direction it did go in (hence why I called in backup), but that is exactly what I'm the most suspicious of at this point is that the sprag is in backwards. When he installed it for me a few years back (which was the first time I attempted the repair), I vaguely remember him pressing it into the sun gear shaft with our hydraulic press and was very confident in how he did it, but a mistake is always possible. I was too chicken to to remove the sprag out of the shaft up to this point and I may tear it up and need another one (costly) but I truly don't believe the issue is in my clutch plates or oil seals/rings. We should be too wet to plant tomorrow, so I'm hoping to be back in the shop investigating further. Thank you for the idea and response, I appreciate it!

[@ThatOliverGuyChris]

That sprag should push in by hand. If he used a press to push it in , something isn't right.

[@andrewwagner7992]

@@ThatOliverGuyChris Ok, I will make that my next target and see what happens. Thank you again for the help. Love the channel, keep up the good work!

[@andrewwagner7992]

@@ThatOliverGuyChris Just to update. I put the sprag clutch in the opposite direction and reassembled everything and it all magically worked like it should. We did the air test on each port and got 12/10 turns for overdrive and 10/10 for direct. Have the engine and unit all back up in the tractor, and am just working on sewing it back up. I'm very excited to say the least. Thank you again!

[@jasonjohnson4779]

I was wondering what the clutch free play was set at for the 1755 thanks. Just got done with a clutch install my self.

[@ThatOliverGuyChris]

I like to have the pedal move about 2 inches before I feel it hit the throw out bearing.

[@cesmith4566]

Careful that 310 will start! Lol what else can you drop straight in like that and not worry about the front or the rear half of the tractor falling over! Thanks for the demonstration

[@burningdinosaurs]

You sure got that right, CE!

[@ThatOliverGuyChris]

I really learned to appreciate the Olivers when I had to split a Minne Mo when the dealership was open. I swear I spent as much time stabilizing the front end as I did splitting it.

[@jasongibbs47]

Have you made a video of over under rebuild I have a MM g 1355 that is close to these olivers. Leaking atf into the transmission was told it's a seal and is common problem with these tractors I'm planning on splitting tractor and rebuilding the unit and clutch your videos are very informative enjoy watching thanks.

[@ThatOliverGuyChris]

I started filming one last winter, but my camera man pushed the wrong button a couple times and so we missed a lot of footage. I thought I was going to do one from a good friend's 2150 this winter, but he wants to be here to help do it, and his schedule hasn't given him time to do it so far.

[@Mclint9171]

Really got a kick out of this video. Nice to see some wrenching on good old iron

[@burningdinosaurs]

Excellent Excellent Video as usual!! A lot of great tips you covered there and that is great to have it documented somewhere! Thanks so much for sharing your expertise with the rest of the world! I'm sure it will be appreciated for years to come! What year is that 1755? How many hours are on it? Thanks for the video!

[@ThatOliverGuyChris]

I think it is a 71, I will have to check the meter, but memory says it is around 5000 hours. It has been overhauled, and whoever did it, did it right. It always started for me during harvest, even with a dead block heater. Below freezing I would preheat the manifold heater nd away she would go.

[@ThatOliverGuyChris]

And thank you for the compliments, and for watching!

[@bustersmith5569]

Chris Losey it was rebuilt before ? And it only has 5000 hrs on it. Shouldn't it have went alot longer before a rebuild ??

[@ThatOliverGuyChris]

I don't think it had been many hours since the overhaul. 4-5 thousand hours is where these 310s got rebuilt has been my experience. It depends on how hard they were used and the kind of care it got.

[@williamchambers7235]

Great video! I think changing clutches in Olivers is easier than splitting tractors. What are your thoughts? Thanks for the video.

[@burningdinosaurs]

When my dad had a tractor shop way back in the day, he could change a clutch in an Oliver in like 4 hours, start-to-finish. He absolutely hated working on JDs. Everything was more $$$ and more time. So, I, for one, am with you, William - easier than splitting the tractor!

[@williamchambers7235]

@@burningdinosaurs lol they definitely simpler and cheaper to do. I have done a few...... but in 4 days not hours lol

[@burningdinosaurs]

@@williamchambers7235 Yeah man! no joke! I'm sure he couldn't these days, but back then we always had at least 1 bay with a tractor in it, so it was probably like muscle-memory. Now... I never timed him, and that could have been with fluids already drained and on a tractor where no bolts were rusted, also, he could have been, let's say: "stretching" a bit with his figures lol!

[@williamchambers7235]

@@burningdinosaurs oh I believe you. If you do that kind of stuff day in day out you get good at it 😁

[@ThatOliverGuyChris]

I've split a few in my time, and I suppose with a good set of splitting stands it wouldn't be too bad. I'll still take pulling the engine out of an Oliver. I can pull the rest of the tractor outside to powerwash it, or in the case of the 1850 in the background, move it to a different building to make room for tables and chairs for plow day. And for those that like to repower, that full frame makes for lots of choices.

[@markhoff5205]

Chris you need a helper, that's a lot of work by yourself!

[@ThatOliverGuyChris]

Then I wouldn't be That One Guy at Work. Lol

[@jakek9765]

Since you have several different models of Oliver tractors would you do a video of the engines that came in the 4 digit series? And any information you may know of why Oliver put several different makes of engines in their tractors such as the Waukesha, Perkins, GM, Caterpillar etc? Keep up the good videos of you working on your Oliver’s. Thank you.

[@ThatOliverGuyChris]

That's a good idea, I'll add it to my list of videos to work on. Thanks for the suggestion, and for watching!

[@Military-Museum-LP]

Very good idea for future videos

[@richardhaughey3661]

Work smarter not harder i had a drawer full of bolts with the heads cut off