Olympians first time at one of Sydney's best crags

I can't believe it's taken so long to get here. Such a fun few hours in the arvo though. Keen to get back for a few of the others :).
Sushi Train, V8 - I think I used some pretty bad beta haha
Mushi Brain, V11 - Flashed the first half to the rest then knew the top from Sushi
Abacus, V12 - Flash, pretty psyched :)
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[@esonsei]

Bruhhhh that sushi train beta is COOKED

[@TomOHalloranAus]

Totally junk beta haha. I watched a beta video of it afterwards and saw just how wrong I’d gotten it 🤦🏻‍♂️. Works though haha

[@user-bx4zq7fx7e]

You’re legit so good at flashing boulders, it’s insane! So much commitment and precision!

[@TomOHalloranAus]

Sometimes it goes well, sometimes not. Lots of practicing in my head and some mime climbing before the feet leave the deck. The commitment and precise has taken a long time to training. I used to be way more hesitant and looking for the option out

[@Ollie_1997]

Been working on Sushi on ages so if you could make it look harder next time, that would be great

[@TomOHalloranAus]

Noted 😀. Would recommend not trying my bogus beta 😂

[@Ollie_1997]

@TomOHalloranAus Haha I'll stick with the bump for the moment then hahaha

[@drtimoneill]

@@Ollie_1997 We never used that hold out left near the end ... the bump was pretty unreliable so not surprised 'climbers' found that cheat code :)

[@joolsgrommers1466]

I loved the few days of climbing I had in Sydney! Until I snapped my hammie on Paratrooping V8. 😅 The noise contrasting with the quiet and great sandstone was amazing. Next year!

[@TomOHalloranAus]

Urgh grim!! That is not nice at all. Paratrooping is still here waiting for you 😀

[@joolsgrommers1466]

@@TomOHalloranAus AH, that's ages ago and recovered completely. Psyched for my next visit, but think it might be height of (your) summer this time. Not ideal.

[@TomOHalloranAus]

Haha my first trips to frontline were in summer. It is very much not ideal! You may get luck with an overcast breezy day though :)

[@chrissellers4519]

I was super lucky to have a year in Oz & boulder in Syd. Some amazing crags, loved the old school no heels rules at some of them- proper UK style. Keep up the great content man.

[@TomOHalloranAus]

Ahh cool. There’s some really great climbing here for sure. Sydney bouldering is proper good. Alex Megos said if it were on proper boulders rather than little cliff lines, it would be world class. He really enjoyed it

[@HugoBroad]

dude this looks sick i wish new zealand had stuff like this

[@TomOHalloranAus]

Ummmmm you have castle hill don’t you? This doesn’t compare to lush green fields and perfectly sculpted stone. This is only 50m from 3million dollar homes though. That’s pretty cool haha

[@V8chump]

I just wanna feel one of these boulders and think “oh fuck no”. highest grade in my state is v11 and I’m climbing an outdoor v9 now, first summer I’ve spent outdoor climbing, just passed my 1 year mark in climbing, hoping to maybe get to a v12 some day 🙏🏼. Tom, how was your progress like bouldering? Where we’re you at 1,2,3,X,Y,Z years in? I see you were climbing v12 4 years ago so I’m wondering if I can even progress 3 more grades within my lifetime? I’m pretty fit and strong, I can do a one arm off 14mm and weigh about 140lbs? Idk how that stacks up to someone like you, an actual goddamn Olympian 🤷🏼‍♂️

[@TomOHalloranAus]

You'll make it to V12. My advice would be don't be too eager to get there though. Fill out your skills and strengths rather than just jumping onto the next hardest thing. Build the foundations of the building nice and strong, then you can go up. Boring advice, but true. I still can't do 1 arm off a 14mm edge, so you're already stronger than me at that. Look at how you can be a 'better' climber, not stronger. Enjoy

[@V8chump]

@@TomOHalloranAus thank you for the response! It’s awesome being able to talk directly to someone on your level, an honor really. How would you suggest to become a better climber instead of solely focusing on strength gains? I notice at this level, v10+, most of the details that make you a better climber are so small and often hard to pick up on from a beta video or something like that! Most people around me are about v6/7 climbers who have been at it for quite a while so I don’t have tons of outside input on these harder climbs…. I’d like to know, what did you use to learn these finer details and become a better climber? Peers? Coaching? Videos? 🤔

[@TomOHalloranAus]

@@V8chump study videos, read books (the old how to climb books are a wealth of info) and climb. you're only a year in, you've barely dipped your toes into climbing. choose one thing each week to think about. im going to place my feet more precisely, im going to heel hook, im going to breathe. a coach can be a great help with this stuff

[@andrewcarr3690]

Sick flash on Abacus! Did you hop on Genesis by any chance?

[@TomOHalloranAus]

Didn’t have time unfortunately. Had to get back up the hill for a dinner date. Next time 😀

[@andrewcarr3690]

@@TomOHalloranAus Ah good compact session, would be rude to flash everything anyway 😅

[@TomOHalloranAus]

haha exactly. Genesis does look hard though.

[@andrewcarr3690]

@@TomOHalloranAus hard till it's easy from what I've heard

[@TomOHalloranAus]

Like most of climbing haha

[@alexmoses3215]

FIRST!!

[@TomOHalloranAus]

Within moments of the upload. Nice 👊✌️

[@samlfarrar]

Abacus flash, wow

[@TomOHalloranAus]

One I wanted to climb for a long time now 😀

[@brandondelong4225]

beautiful climbing and videography. Thanks for the video mate. 😸🤘

[@TomOHalloranAus]

Thanks 😀. Glad you enjoyed ✌️

[@ericlee4893]

Made it look easy. I’m headed to Syd for the first time in Sept. Any recommendations for gyms with groups that climb at local crags regularly? Looking for some peps to climb with!

[@TomOHalloranAus]

Nomad Bouldering Gym in Annandale has a great scene of psyched folk who get outdoors. Check them out for sure

[@eynash]

Mega classic. Abacus flash is insane

[@TomOHalloranAus]

Fun to finally climb some of those boulders. It’s been so many years of wanting to get there 😀

[@eynash]

@@TomOHalloranAus Any plans on hopping on Genesis and Catalyst, they're classic

[@TomOHalloranAus]

One day for sure. Aust bouldering history!

[@oliverdickinson8455]

would you ever consider doing a video on your training for climbing and stuff that's worked best for you ?

[@TomOHalloranAus]

Yes, for sure. I've been wanting to dig into that topic. Got a bunch of things I've learnt along the way I'd be psyched to share

[@leomao10]

Where can I get the pink mat? Looks handy for abacus

[@TomOHalloranAus]

Organic Blubber. Got mine from climbing anchors. Had wanted one for 10+ years and finally bought it last year. Best pad ever!

[@Stewart.george]

Another cracking video mate and some sweet sends, Only recently found the baffle days podcast and have been really enjoying it during my drives to work.

[@TomOHalloranAus]

Ahh cool. Hoping to get more eps out soon 😀. Psyched you liked the video

[@senorblondie]

Looked like a wonderful day... 👊🏼

[@TomOHalloranAus]

Perfect weather afternoon. Listened to Bernd Zangerl ep on @thenuggetclimbing and was in a great combo of psyched and chill 😀

[@gavinportier7838]

The slab is waiting for your Onsight 😂😂😂

[@TomOHalloranAus]

I actually went for a walk to look for it. Then realised I was at crumbly and it’s at sissy 😂🤦🏻‍♂️

[@gavinportier7838]

@@TomOHalloranAus 🤣

[@liluxiaorealnew]

Your beta on sushi train is mind blowing

[@TomOHalloranAus]

Haha yeah I saw a beta vid after and realised im waaaaay off the good bet haha

[@jackwood3718]

Love the Boulder vids

[@TomOHalloranAus]

Thanks mate, I'm psyched you enjoy them. Keen to share more

[@nathanogara9660]

Theres gotta be some harder for you man, flashing v12 has gotta mean at least yje possible of a v15 proj

[@TomOHalloranAus]

After the massive closures in the gramps, there’s not heaps of developed V14-5+ boulders to throw yourself at here. To develop them is an entirely different story for your time and energy. There’s a couple hard things I know of and tried a little, but it’s just a matter of priorities. Sport climbing is the main focus atm. But dabbling in boulders is very fun. Keen to go on a trip to Swiss or rocklands (went in 2011) and dig into some of the hard things there. Would be fun to climb some of those things

[@nathanogara9660]

@@TomOHalloranAus damn, I forgot about that closure, hopefully that sick arete/compression dyno thing ends up being around that hard.

[@TomOHalloranAus]

I have no doubt it will. Definitely one to get back on 😀

[@AlexeiDrummond]

Looking awesomely strong as always! Cheeky question: does it still count as a flash if it includes holds/sequences from another problem that you already climbed? In sport climbing I was taught that you couldn't claim a flash for a route if it shares part of a climb that you have already done :)

[@TomOHalloranAus]

Yep, you’re totally correct. I’m not claiming a flash on anything I had already been on though. Mushi, I said, was 1st try and in the description of the vid i explain I flash up to the rest, then get to the bit I’ve already done. Apologies if that wasn’t clear enough 😀✌️

[@AlexeiDrummond]

@@TomOHalloranAus I should have read the fine print! We climbers have a whole manual of rules, don't we?

[@TomOHalloranAus]

Too many rules haha

[@jcrotty18]

Bit of a rampage there mate. Congrats! Can't tell you how many times I have saved a stellar rig for the "perfect" time only to a) never actually go because it's just not right yet and b) show up and get my ass handed to me ... lol. Rarely does it turn out like this session of yours

[@TomOHalloranAus]

There’s only been a handful of climbs I’ve saved and been able to actually succeed on on a first go. Most of the time those successes come from just going, ‘ahhh stuff it, let’s just go and try.’ Then a lot of the time I end up on the end of the rope or back on the pads before I realise 😀

[@biorapid0073]

It seems to me that the 'perfect' time or day happens more so in hindsight. Waiting for the stars to align doesn't really seem to work, often you don't know how you feel until you pull on. And if you do decide 'todays the perfect day' then that's a whole heap of pressure and often takes you out of the moment. Stoked you had a great day dropping hammers and pulling triggers.

[@TomOHalloranAus]

Couldn’t agree more. The pressure of thinking, ‘today is that day,’ is a lot. Forcing yourself to just pull on and enjoy the time on the wall, their the perfect moments

[@ChatkritPertSinsomboon]

Fkn sick!!!

[@TomOHalloranAus]

:) glad you enjoyed

[@alingx1]

🤯

[@TomOHalloranAus]

Thankfully no heads exploded at the cliff that day. Everyone went home safe haha😉

[@lukasvilim8499]

👍

[@TomOHalloranAus]

Thanks mate ✌️

[@drtimoneill]

Nit picking a bit here but we never used that extra hold out left on Sushi Train / Mushi Brain right near the end. Let's call them an eliminate ;) With ABACUS the main thing was that starting undercling was sometimes sopping wet so if it wasnt then you got the good conditions. At least you had to try a bit on that one :) ... well done!

[@drtimoneill]

Oh and you skipped a hold too so your version was an eliminate :D

[@TomOHalloranAus]

Everything worked out in the wash 😀. I’ve been partly putting off going to sissy for fear of using the wrong beta. I’m all for holding onto the history of the place, but it’s damn confusing to know what you can and can’t touch 😂

[@drtimoneill]

@@TomOHalloranAus Yeah, I'm just stirring. We tried not to have any / many rules at Crumbly unlike Sissy. Really just the starting place and finishing place and not going obviously 'off route'. There is a V17 (now open) project I worked for ages called The Vision there BTW ...

[@drtimoneill]

And yes, literally V17 ... it was like 8-10 x at least V12 single moves back-to-back ... I could pull on in all the positions, walk feet and do about half of the individual moves, tag the holds on all the others but never link 2 together ...

[@bigdog5112]

@@TomOHalloranAussissy so annoying for that reason, also unrelated would be interesting to see you do a lattice remote assessment

[@darrenmarney8577]

That is an awesome looking boulder 👌It wouldn't look out of place in the Grampians 👍

[@TomOHalloranAus]

Some of the sydney bouldering is properly world class. The movements on these are up there for quality for sure!