Redpoint mistakes even pros make

Join the Sunset Frothers Crew :) / tomohalloran
It's easy to fall into the trap of what got me here, will get me there. However, if you want to level up your climbing, you need to level up the approach. I avoided addressing all these and more on the 7 year journey of this route. But that's ok. What fun would it all be if we weren't learning all the time :).
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[@LemonLimeFlavoured]

I think what always trips me up when projecting is being weak and generally not great at climbing. Funny how little things like that get in the way sometimes...

[@adityakrishna4359]

feel that this goes against the spirit of critical analysis posed in this video lol

[@TomOHalloranAus]

haha i think we can all feel like that. the burden of ambitions can mean we never feel as good as we want to. are ability is all just relative. however if we are making silly mistakes (like not warming up properly or not bringing good food to the crag) which are needlessly tripping us up, it's probably worth addressing :)

[@bigdog5112]

Are you going to try the other 9a+

[@TomOHalloranAus]

Would be very keen to check it out. Just got to make it fit with the other goals for the year 😀

[@Candesce]

I wouldn't project anything that you feel is physically impossible when you try it, nothing more than 2 or 3 grades beyond the hardest climb you've ever done. You have plenty of other climbs to climb. Climb lots of stuff at or near your limit, fall off lots, send lots, and you'll come back to that project one day and find it wasn't so bad after all.

[@willwheeler3048]

Some unreal tips in there. Great to know you struggle with things like us mere mortals do as well such as sweaty fingers and numbing out

[@TomOHalloranAus]

Haha it's all the same struggle, just in a different playground

[@PansetaCompanyEXTRA]

We need more videos of you Tom, you are just a real person that knows how to explain the things in a good way!

[@TomOHalloranAus]

Haha ahhh thanks mate. I’m 100% back on the making videos train. I’ve missed it in the last couple months. Life just needed some attention for a little while

[@FirstnameLastname-ge3xy]

Just sent my first 7c and I'm certain it was tactics was a big aspect in why this project succeeded and why I've failed some others. I took a break and came back a lot better for it in my skin, body and motivation!

[@TomOHalloranAus]

Rad! nice one. A small break from the project to give everything time to rest and then build back up again is a hugely underrated tactic. Congrats on the send :)

[@antybris]

I find that on days where i have a crystal clear plan of what im doing is when i perform the best i.e this burn im going to breathe more through this section, or rest.more at that kneebar. My worst attempts are always the ones where i 'just go up and see what happens '

[@TomOHalloranAus]

Yes! I can totally relate to that. I little direction is a big win

[@yuval1302]

Awesome as always Tom! Always looking forward to more stuff!

[@TomOHalloranAus]

More incoming for sure. I’ve missed making videos 😀. Psyched you’re enjoying them✌️

[@darrenmarney8577]

Sadly,failure drives me to achieve my unattainable goals with my limited abilities 😂 But success & failure are not my end goals 👌 Just being in the moment and enjoying situations of life 😮

[@TomOHalloranAus]

The determination to overcome failure? I’ve certainly used regret as a driver before. ‘Will I regret not going through with this,’ etc. the desire to make the future more awesome, by making the now a little less comfortable is a powerful thing.

[@paulmitchell5349]

Learning is retrospective.

[@TomOHalloranAus]

Yep, so much to learn on reflection

[@PyroTechGamer]

I’ve weirdly had success with going the opposite direction in terms of headspace for the send burn. I tell myself im just going to figure out how to clip third efficiently, then I end up sending. Or I’m going to show a mate my beta for the crux, and I end up sending. When I’m too focused on “this is the one” - I get too nervous, psyche myself out, overgrip, and punt. Granted I’m only climbing 24s rn and can’t imagine 30+

[@TomOHalloranAus]

I can totally relate to that one. And that’s what was stuff me up for a while in the 2019 season of this. I worked out though, for my situation, that it went a little deeper than that. I was thinking about what the end looked like and what it would mean, more than actually focusing on purely putting everything into just climbing. I’ve heard the phrase, hold your goals lightly, which resonates nicely at times.

[@andreasladstein3322]

Great insightful video! I am real keen to know who made those blue macros you have ?

[@TomOHalloranAus]

Rubber Holds. They’re an Aust company. I love them. Great texture and the best little fiberglass additions for a board

[@andreasladstein3322]

@@TomOHalloranAus thanks! We have some of the drops, they're amazing!

[@destructoau7526]

It was a great assent Tom, is there anything else developed in the Bluies at this level? What’s next? Get amongst it.

[@TomOHalloranAus]

There’s definitely a few undone projects which are around this level. Keen to sink some time in 😀

[@JypsyJourney]

Great vid cheers Tom, when are we getting more Baffle Days?!

[@TomOHalloranAus]

Haha that one is on the vary long to do list. Certainly haven't forgotten about it :). Keen to get some energy, time and consistency pointed at it.

[@JypsyJourney]

Looking forward to it mate keep crushing it@@TomOHalloranAus

[@joolsgrommers1466]

Allowing myself to believe I can send seems to be a tricky one. I know I’ve been avoiding a project for all kinds of reasons. Might actually be strong enough atm… Just need the weather to cooperate before I leave for work.

[@TomOHalloranAus]

It’s a hard one for sure. There’s a whole personality shift/realization that needs to happen sometimes to allow ourselves to step into the new, capable us. Weather is also a pesky thing haha

[@joolsgrommers1466]

@@TomOHalloranAus I'm a new capable me! 🤩

[@verticaldids]

How do we switch off send anxiety? 💀

[@TomOHalloranAus]

That’s a big one and definitely high on the list of video topics I want to cover. There’s a whole bunch of route causes and a whole bunch of ways to ‘treat’ it

[@Aaron-xq6hv]

So if I qualify for the Olympics I can send my project?

[@TomOHalloranAus]

There seems to be a correlation haha. The game changer for me from the physical development POV was taking my training seriously. Leveling myself up to where the climb needed me to be. The old approach of just showing up, wasn’t going to work. The Olympics forced my hand to train and I’m grateful for that transformation

[@Aaron-xq6hv]

@@TomOHalloranAus I can totally relate to that. I feel like it's ultimately the "newbie gains", just sometimes that happens at 9a and for some of us it happens at 7a

[@TomOHalloranAus]

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