Olympus OM-1 Video Manual 1 of 2, Olympus OM-1 Overview

The Olympus OM-1, Olympus first professional-level SLR, was a masterpiece of engineering, design, and interface. The viewfinder is still regarded as the best, or at least one of the best, ever made for a camera. The shutter is not meaningfully noisier than a leaf shutter. The lens lineup is spectacular. The entire camera and supporting system were crafted for enjoyable and comfortable use.
This video presents the camera's features and discusses what each button on the camera is while also providing information about the Olympus OM-1 and its place in history.
Index:
Skip the Intro: 0:17
Three Varieties of the Olympus OM-1: 0:30
Olympus OM-1 Overview: 2:05
Olympus OM-1 Features - Top: 7:25
Olympus OM-1 Features - Front: 9:28
Olympus OM-1 Features - Back: 10:36
Olympus OM-1 Features - Bottom: 10:40
Olympus OM-1 Features - Inside: 10:52
Notes: 12:56
Prism Degradation: 13:45
Irreplaceable Olympus M-1 Light Meter Galvanometers: 15:20
Things not to do with Your Olympus OM-1: 17:00
An Invitation to Like and Subscribe: 20:45
Diode Instructions Video:
• Fix Old Cameras: OM-1 ...
Olympus OM-1 Review:
• Olympus OM-1 Camera 4K...
Link to Video 2:
• Olympus OM-1 Video Man...
References:
www.butkus.org/chinon/olympus...
www.cameramanuals.org/olympus_...
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of...
www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/...
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Olympus...
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Gear I used for Filming and Editing:
Video Capture and Film Digitization- Pentax K-3 (www.ricoh-imaging.co.jp/englis...) or Pentax K-1 (www.ricoh-imaging.co.jp/englis...)
Secondary Capture- Sony CX330 (www.sony.com/electronics/camco...)
Lens- Pentax 31mm FA Limited (www.pentaxforums.com/lensrevie...)
Off-camera Audio- Tascam DR-70D or Tascam DR-60D MKII and Tascam DR-05 (tascam.com/product/dr-70d/ or tascam.com/product/dr-60dmkii/ and tascam.com/product/dr-05/)
Video Editing- Sony Movie Studio Platinum (www.vegascreativesoftware.com/...)
Audio Processing- Adobe Soundbooth (www.adobe.com/sea/products/so...)
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www.5119photography.com/
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[@rickbear7249]

As a young professional, I bought the OM-1n in 1979 and used it throughout the 35mm film era. My specialisation was that I was an extreme expeditions photographer, so my OM-1 took a lot of abuse down caverns, up mountains in all weathers, and even when I was strapped to the bow of a cross-channel merchant ship for 3 hours in a Force 8 gale. The OM-1, which works in 2022, is an incredibly simple and robust camera. Mine often needed washing out with distilled water and IPA before drying on a hot radiator. No other camera would withstand that kind of punishment.

[@DavidHancock]

Holy cow. You're right. That's some serious abuse resistance.

[@MrChomiq]

That sweet sweet M-1, now that's a freaking collector's item.

[@DavidHancock]

Yeah, these are nice to have. The shutters in them, M-1 or OM-1, sound fantastic, too.

[@clintonr9804]

There are actually dozens of "improved parts" incorporated in the history of the "1" throughout it's construction. Olympus even had a process of "upgrading" non-MD bodies to render them MD compatible. This included replacing dozens of parts, including the governor, the wind assembly, and so on, as well as drilling holes in the body casting using special jigs for improved function necessary with winders and drives! The reason two of the four pins along the film rails were removed was so that the larger pressure plate on the MD models would fit -- the smaller pressure plate on the original back would allow the film to jump over the sprocket teeth as the film was driven through the camera at high speeds. When "converted", as above, the two pins nearest the sprocket would be removed and replaced with short set screws, which would then be painted over with black paint, and the back cover and pressure plate would be replaced. A qualified Olympus tech would know that the meter needle on early model 1's was bent differently than the meters in later models, and that it is possible to carefully reconfigure the needle from a later model to fit in early bodies should replacement be necessary. A shame that your M1 wasn't cared for properly. Also, the foam over the prism was attached to the underside of the hot shoe's "roll bar" to keep dust and debris from settling between the eyepiece lens and the rear surface of the prism. Various improvements were initiated in later models replacing the foam with plastic covers. After many years, the foam on those early models began to dissolve the silver coating over the prism, resulting in what Olympus tech's called "prism rot". It is possible to clean and buff off the damaged silvering (jeweler's rouge on a buffing wheel works great), and once reassembled the bare glass is hardly noticeable. Even so, if you're interested in perfection, the OM-10 uses exactly the same pentaprism as the 1, which can be used to replace a damaged prism.

[@DavidHancock]

Thank you! That is a lot of great information I didn't know.

[@BoxOfShockolates]

Wow, you are so knowledgeable. I will say all of these models & their differences does my head in. Om-1 vs om-1 md & om-10, om-1n.. etc it’s excessive & mind numbing for me, as a novice photography student who is shopping around for my first camera. I get the concept that later camera models ideally are supposed to be improved from earlier models, but I don’t know enough to know any better, regarding what would be best. Esp things to consider maintenance, feature & compatibility wise, as well as technical aspects. There’s all these minor differences & minor tweaks, like the om-1 md vs om-10… like is it a deal breaker or concern regarding the md version not being able to accept one focusing screen from an older model? I don’t know enough about any of this. 😅

[@androoy.p]

Thanks for sharing that info! Especially that piece about how om-1 and om-10 prizms are identical: after doeing some additional research I confirmed that the om-20 prizm also works, and I successfully put it into the om-1.

[@lisbethsjostrand5397]

- I'm grateful for these two videos about OM1. Just found one that is on it's way by post. 😃 I used an OM1 (not mine) in 1981-1984 and now I will have one of my own. So I watch your videos while waiting for it to arrive after Christmas.Thank You and Merry Christmas 2021. 🎅 /Lisbeth from Sweden 🇸🇪

[@DavidHancock]

Thank you, Lisbeth!!

[@olga950]

This is a great video. I bought one recently and just received my first developed film. I was so surprised at the quality for such an old heavily used camera. The lens was given to me years ago and has been sitting in a box. I thought I was taking a risk not having it checked but the quality of the images is outstanding. So excited. Thank you for this video, it is so useful.

[@DavidHancock]

Thank you!

[@zyanide]

Awesome video. Very educational. What I like most is the part where you also recommend how to store the camera. Thanks so much!

[@DavidHancock]

Thank you!

[@DiegoLucass]

very great intro! Thank you ✨ now moving onto part 2

[@DavidHancock]

Thank you!

[@michaeldavid4818]

This video was super helpful David, I have an OM-1 on the way from Japan can't wait to have it in my hand

[@DavidHancock]

Thank you and nice find!

[@robinj.9329]

Back "in the day", only a very few Professionals really had any need for, or ever used, the motor drive! Some "Sports" and others that habitually shot fast moving action used them, but for the vast majority of us, it just added, weight, cost and complexity. I once borrowed one, to get "action shots" at a boxing match. But discovered that, I really didn't even need it!

[@DavidHancock]

I agree with the old motor drives. Realistically, a fast photographer with good muscle memory can manually advance film at around 1.5-2 frames per second. That's about what most motor drives could do until the late eighties or so.

[@lacostarasa7992]

thank you. have just bought an OM-1. great advice. best wishes

[@DavidHancock]

Thank you!

[@daphneanton6818]

Excellent and clear video. Thank you.

[@DavidHancock]

Thank you!

[@franzscaramelli2651]

Thanks so much for this video on one of Maitani´s master pieces.

[@DavidHancock]

Thank you!

[@jpirnat80]

Lots of important/valuable technical details: I have a 50mm/1.4 with a somewhat sticky aperture -- I didn't know that oil on the aperture blades created that condition and (more importantly) what causes that to happen. Also, didn't know the consequences of leaving the camera 'armed' while sitting for periods of time. Thanks for making this video...on to part 2.

[@DavidHancock]

Thank you!

[@zandervasquez3164]

Thank you so much for your help !

[@DavidHancock]

Thank you!

[@jmtolentino12]

thank you for sharing and the tips

[@DavidHancock]

Thank you!

[@emilioricou]

Amo esta maravillosa cámara, de hecho poseo 3 unidades en perfecto uso

[@DavidHancock]

¡Muy fantastico!

[@pcz3]

Thank you so much for this video! Just picked it up today , my first film camera- so excited to get started?

[@DavidHancock]

Nice! These are amazing cameras.

[@b_wtangible_moments]

Love my Om1n! Olympus Fanboy Right here! Just recently got an Olympus 35 Sp. Wow! It compliments my Om1n nicely. Just love there controls. Olympus camera's to me are the best looking and best over all brand in my opinion.

[@DavidHancock]

I totally agree about the looks. I think they did a great job with the deign on most of their cameras.

[@Jordan-yp2rp]

tbh I just get an Om1n today to replace my "old" om-1 (dirty prism...) and I don't really like how the shutter is lower on the om-1n than on the om-1. I'm also used to the rewinder (more square) of the 2nd one. Om-1n seems to be lighter.

[@kimberlydiaz454]

have an m-1, thank you for this video!!

[@DavidHancock]

Thank you!

[@nickfanzo]

Love the size of the OM cameras.

[@DavidHancock]

Absolutely.

[@hoorayforpentax3801]

Controversial stand: If you're buying an M-1, you should be good enough to shoot meterless anyway. The only problem I have with this vid is that it makes me want an OM-1. So tiny, and the control layout is such an interesting diversion from Pentax. But I have so many film cameras, I already don't have enough time to shoot them all.

[@DavidHancock]

I tend to agree that the M-1 is definitely a camera for advanced uses, if only due to the cost. I do like these, more than the MX, I would say, which is about the same size.

[@Olof_Rosenius]

Hi. I have two of the OM-1 cameras and there is also a fourth version, the OM-1n (New). They have upgraded hot shoe, and film feeding arm. One of them I have is a black one that I have used a lot. The black paint is worn off so you can see the brass in several places. I have also converted it to 1.5 volt for Easter use.

[@DavidHancock]

Nice!

[@jeg569]

Just finished a roll of CineStill BwXX in my 0-M1 🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿📷👍

[@DavidHancock]

Nice! That would be a good combo. I used Double-X 5222 (the same stock, I think) in my M-1 and it looked great.

[@AndrewGoodCamera]

I've had this camera on my wishlist for a while. I should have bought a copy before this video came out. Now it's going to increase demand on the eBays. :)

[@DavidHancock]

There are fewer of these for sale on eBay today than yesterday, so there may have been a few that people picked up. :D

[@AndrewGoodCamera]

@@DavidHancock I'm holding you personally responsible. ;)

[@protestagain]

Exciting video, but I never had an OM-1, but bought OM-2 in 1978. The world's best camera system, and now I have an OM-2n and an OM-3Ti with almost all F2.0 lenses I want, besides the 100/2.0. Expect that it will also end up here as well, and a black OM-1. No, I haven't paid fantasy prices for any of my items.

[@DavidHancock]

Nice! I would like an OM-3 at some point so I can finish making videos for all the OM-single-digit bodies.

[@protestagain]

@@DavidHancock If you lived nearby, you could borrow everything. But do not like to send anything, but hope you find everything you need near you. Unfortunately, much of OM gear is priced with fantasy prices.

[@Sikhislove]

Been looking for one ...now for awhile

[@DavidHancock]

They're out there and they're great to use.

[@ajlndga]

OM-1 has a center-weighted light metering, not an averaging one (as stated at 2:27). OM-2 does have both: averaging (Auto mode), as well as center-weighted, same as OM-1, metering (Manual mode).

[@DavidHancock]

You are correct. Thank you for catching that.

[@blackwingvalleylover]

Does this also apply to OM 1 N- the 1979 version?

[@macevensen2364]

I just found one at a thrift store for 5 bucks and works perfectly

[@DavidHancock]

That's a fantastic deal!

[@Pingoinnn]

Damn that's incredible !

[@RICHARDMANDX]

Hello, what a great couple of videos! Really love them, David. I have a question, hope you can bring some light to it: on my OM-1n, if I set shutter speed to Bulb and press down the shutter button (without releasing it), the shutter doesn't keep open like yours in the video. It shoots something like 1/30. Do you know why is that? Do I need the shutter release cable to make it work? I just got this camera, they said it was working 100% but seems like the Bulb mode has some issues unless I am doing something wrong.

[@DavidHancock]

Thank you! I can't recall if the N needs batteries for any functions. Do you have batteries in it?

[@RICHARDMANDX]

@@DavidHancock Looks like is fully manual except for the light meter. I got a couple of batteries but seems like the light meter is dead as well (don't care that much) but it worries me that Bulb mode can be damaged. Other shutter speeds seem fine. Any other ideas?

[@DavidHancock]

@@RICHARDMANDX Only bad news at this point. Sounds like the gearing is messed up. It will probably need a professional repair. For some reason the shutter dial isn't engaging with the timing mechanism properly. If the seller said it was fully functional, it certainly sounds like it's not.

[@RICHARDMANDX]

@@DavidHancock Thanks David, I've been googling around for this and found some Yashicas and Hasselblad presented this problem and a repair was required. I will talk to the store to have this fixed.

[@GaryWain]

Hi David, great Video as usual. I do have one question regarding Prism degradation, I may be misunderstanding what you are saying or got this completely wrong but Foam eating the silvering on a Prism?, Prisms generally work using Total internal Reflection which loses far less light than a silvered mirror so surly you can dissolve the foam off the glass, re-polish and re-fit? On another note thanks for doing these vids, my two favorite cameras I own are the OM1 and my Dynax 9. I didn't get the Alpha! and your videos on both are the best on youtube.

[@DavidHancock]

Thank you! for the prism degradation, SLR prisms are silver coated except on the surfaces where the light enters and exits. That's how it reflects through the prism, otherwise it would simply escape into the camera's housing. The foam's adhesive causes the silver to tarnish, which is why the viewfinders can exhibit black areas in the viewfinders. In theory, it would be possible to strip the prisms and re-apply silver, but I don't know how that could be performed. I don't know if you'd need vaporized silver, like a lens coating process, or if liquid silver would be suitable.

[@GaryWain]

@@DavidHancock OK but that is odd as that is not how prisms work, they relay an the angle of incidence on light passing from two mediums of different density, they don’t require a silver mirror surfave: You may find a better explanation. kzbin.info/www/bejne/b36xpKuOYsSSrq8

[@GaryWain]

found one: kzbin.info/www/bejne/qJLag52EibOioJo

[@GaryWain]

Got it, they are hybrid optics, got ya, thanks for making me think :-)

[@DavidHancock]

Pentaprisms in cameras work slightly differently than standard prisms. A prism splits and refracts light. A pentaprism redirects it. To prevent light from being lost at each bounce (there are three direction changes in the light path in a pentaprism) the pentaprisms are silver coated and then sealed in a protective covering, except at the viewfinder and focusing screen sides. here are a couple of videos where you can see the pentaprism inside of the Olympus OM-1: kzbin.info/www/bejne/a3mpoYiOZrOfgNE kzbin.info/www/bejne/m36lkKl7lqxoepI The foam adhesive tarnishes the prism coating leaving a dark silver that doesn't reflect light (hence the view in the prism is black in those spots.)

[@michellevillarreal2590]

Amazing video i just bought an om1 for 60dlls the only down side is there is some prism separation on it im not sure of what caused it or how is going to affect the view finder or if i need to fix it if you have any info I would love to know

[@DavidHancock]

Thank you! Prism separation is due to degradation of the silver on the prism. It's not repairable. The only solution is a new prism, which requires a somewhat extensive disassembly. The Fix Old Cameras channel has a video on the subject. I would suggest that repair be done by a service professional, however.

[@JohnChubbSr]

Great info!!! I just got one and shooting the first pictures, now. Not sure how it's going to turn out, because of the mirrors and the edges where it has decayed. Also, the prism has its problems. lol So, I shall see. Thanks for agreat video!

[@DavidHancock]

Thank you!

[@Mr_DOHC]

Mine is an OM1 without MD badge but with motor port on the bottom. Also the ASA values all silver.

[@DavidHancock]

Nice! That's the middle child of the design iterations.

[@studiosnch]

Same with mine as well.

[@marcelocampoamor4761]

Hi David, could you make a video one day about the cameras you collect, I have owned an OM-1n and an Om-2n for not too long and although I appreciate the possibility of using a fully mechanical machine in the case of OM- 1 I am having a hard time getting used to having everything in my left hand. I have felt more comfortable with the Sr-t 303 (201?) Despite not being so elegant and much heavier. The Om-2 is another story because I really like to take advantage of its measurement system that seems incredible to me and maybe that's why I have had more patience with it.

[@DavidHancock]

Probably not, and for a few reasons. I don't collect cameras just to have them any more. I didn't get to enjoy enough of them having around 1,500 (my peak) at one point. I'm down to around 50 right now and will be getting down to less than ten in the next year, I think. I'm focusing on cameras that I use regularly and enjoy. I'll keep making video manuals and review, but almost all of them will be cameras I'm using for a while and then selling. A few things really changed my stance on having a camera collection. Not being able to enjoy them all was a big one. Moving them across the country with two hernias was another one because cameras are VERY heavy. Lastly, having my home broken into while I was home and come cameras stolen in 2018 was the nail in the coffin for my collection. I don't know if the person who broke in was some random junky or had targeted me because of the camera collection, but I also don't care. I'm not going through that again and part of ensuring that I don't is getting rid of the things that people would want to steal.

[@marcelocampoamor4761]

@@DavidHancock I understand perfectly, I am very sorry about what happened to you that someone ransacking your house must have been very frustrating to say the least. 1500 cameras sounds like a little much I never imagined something like that your wife is a saint. More interesting would be to know the 50 with which you stayed, but I understand that you cannot expose yourself on youtube. I hope hernias are not a problem for your photography today.

[@CarmineTavernaPhotography]

Yessss

[@DavidHancock]

Thank you!

[@optimumfilms]

Where did you get the cool red focus and aperture adjustment on your 55mm?

[@DavidHancock]

When I got this lens the focusing rubber was gone so I cut a strip from a piece of read leatherette I'd ordered from CameraLeather.com to use on camera bodies. Then I added the second ring at the front because it looked weird with just the one.

[@optimumfilms]

@@DavidHancock pretty slick mod!

[@hazim8999]

Great video! I have a question though. What would happen if you hold down the film winder mechanism on the top left but clock the lever without turning on the rewind switch? (to put it simply, I tried double exposing but for my 2nd shot, I held down the film rewind mechanism, clocked the lever (a tad bit forceful) but didn't turn the rewind switch on)

[@DavidHancock]

Worst case, you strip the advance mechanism, best case the gears just hop out of the film sprocket holes harmlessly. Middle case, the advance mechanism tears up the film sprocket holes.

[@hazim8999]

@@DavidHancock Thanks so much for the quick response David!

[@Kobk.e]

I got one of this OM1 from a thrift perfectly working with the original leather case for like 32, I saw a M1 but it didn't worked sadly so I didn't grabbed it. Also, will you be making tutorials on how to properly give use to this camera and can you list me which lenses/accessories are compatible? Thanks and great video!

[@DavidHancock]

Thank you! And I tend not to go over accessories too much hear. Though a lot of people come here to research for their collections my goal is to give learners a good leg up so they can avoid many mistakes with their cameras.

[@Kobk.e]

@@DavidHancock Good thing you're answeing, I need a pro tip from you. What's the best alternative I have for the battery replacement of this camera? I was expecting I might be able to find an old working sealed P625 online but I didn't, and I saw some adapters that in the advertising they warn you about short circuit. Is there any brand of adapter and battery that can work with this camera? I saw one from the UK approved from an UK vintage camera club/repair centre but I'm not expert at all.

[@DavidHancock]

@Kobke Check out the fox old cameras channel guide on modifying circuitry for modern batteries. It takes one diode that costs about 50 cents and takes around 5 minutes to solder in. I'll be showing the process, too, in my upcoming Yashica Lynx-14 video. It's definitely worth the time of you can solder.

[@francho2516]

Thanks for the info I just got rid of a non functional M1 but still have an OM-1n in my collection. You r recommending not to store cameras in plastic boxes? How about using plastic airtight boxes with desiccant bags for camera and lenses or storage with silica filters in it? Is not what the stores use? Perhaps is different plastic material?

[@DavidHancock]

Thank you! I keep cameras in Pelican cases with rechargeable Pelican dessicant packs. As long as they're kept recharged, that's a fine solution. That said, for most people, it's just easier not to keep them in a plastic container as many camera users aren't checking their dessicant packs regularly to see if they need to be recharged.

[@crispin8888]

@@DavidHancock Or buy an electric dry box.

[@marquicej4503]

Do you know anywhere I can buy this camera? I live in Virginia.

[@DavidHancock]

If you're near DC, there will likely be some good camera stores there. Also, KEH is the best place online for used gear. B&H and Adorama are also great.

[@Exercises10]

David, if the self-timer seems to lag and not move all the way back up to the top position, is it worth fixing on these cameras?

[@DavidHancock]

Only if you're going to use it a lot. If not, there are self-time add-ons that screw into the shutter release button.

[@Exercises10]

@@DavidHancock Good advise, thanks!

[@Jordan-yp2rp]

M-1 in "almost new condition" + f1.2 + leather customization = **blingbling**

[@DavidHancock]

Well, yeah, but now for whomever stole it out of my apartment last year.

[@crispin8888]

@@DavidHancock How sad !

[@skyrysk]

@@DavidHancock fuck

[@burkefrags8064]

awesome video! a year ago I got my hands on a OM1 and kinda took it to get checked and fixed some lil issues. tried an old experied colour film and apart the nasty film it was working fine. then i tried a fomopan Bw film and boom zero exposed slides of the 24..... what could be the issue? got stuck after a film tab broke and just stopped winding? now i have a kodak color inside again and just missing few shots to see if it worked. just kinda bugs my mind not knowing might have happened...

[@DavidHancock]

Hmm. There area few things it could be 1- The film may not have been secured to the take-up spool, so it may not actually have advanced. 2- It's Foma, and that stock can be touchy. I've had some VERY think negatives from Foma 400 when shot at box speed and developed to the Foma instructions. 3- Could be mechanical. 4- Could be that every shot was WAY underexposed due to either an incorrect setting or user error. Let's walk through these and I'll explain how to eliminate them all. 1- Just make sure that the film rewind knob turns when the film is advanced. That ensures that the film is moving in the camera. 2- If you have another roll of Foma 400, shoot it at 100 ISO and develop normally as instructed for 400 ISO. 3- With no film in the camera, hold the camera to an interior light and open the camera's back. Fire the camera at different apertures and shutter speeds and see if you can see the light through the shutter curtains. If yes, then the camera's not the issue. 4- Video 2 in this series runs through all the operational aspects and if you're matching those steps and the camera works and the film is good then everything ought to be okay. Make sure that you have an appropriate battery (video 2 covers that ) as using a modern battery in these cameras will underexpose your film by two stops as a baseline.

[@burkefrags8064]

@@DavidHancock thank you a lot! before i started using this camera i check if the firing was fine(while open) at all speeds, no jammines or sluggish movements. now i fired it few time and seems its rolling fine, once i develop this film will see what happened, ohh yeah saw the second video, damn cool. will try the double exposure in the future if next film develops fine otherwise back to use the old VITORET L ahhaha thx again for the help!

[@mbecker163]

So I have an OM-1, without the "MD" tag, but still with the motor drive. What does that mean?

[@DavidHancock]

Curious. It could be a couple of things. A strong possibility is that it's either a non-MD version with a replaced bottom plate or it's an MD version with replaced leather on the MD side. If it has the MD gear under the cover, then it likely had the leather replaced at some point.

[@katemaxelle561]

Hi, I need suggestion which camera lense i can buy for OM-1 as I only have the camera body😢 where i can buy film for the cam? (Uk base) Thank you!

[@DavidHancock]

And 35mm film will work. Ilford, right there in the UK, is a great film supplier. As for lenses, you need an Olympus OM mount lens. There are a lot of Zuiko OM lenses on the market that spectacular. They're all used, which makes them affordable, too. Make sure that you buy OM mount and not the modern digital mount lenses.

[@logantrenkle1615]

The Zuiko F/1.8, the lens that came with a lot of OM bodies, is a great start. Super sharp, quality, and it is pretty fast at F 1.8 Shouldn't be too expensive either.

[@zerg_burger]

I just got an m-1 with a battery adapter (lr44). The light meter is way off. I'm gonna try a weincell, and see if that works. Otherwise I'm gonna need to use sunny 16

[@DavidHancock]

The 675 battery, if you have a simple brass adapter, will work and last longer than the weincell.

[@1RJ2]

Does the om1 have a problem where you need to advance first before changing the shutter speed? I read it somewhere but can't find proof

[@DavidHancock]

Nope. You can adjust the shutter speed whenever before taking a photo.

[@mbecker163]

I have the motor drive version, but there is no "MD" badge. Any importance?

[@DavidHancock]

I think that means it was an early MD. I don't know how many of those are out there.

[@amoremiodiprovincia]

hi david. if you change the shutter speed before you advance the film, they don't really like that. why?

[@DavidHancock]

I think it's just mine that doesn't. And I'm not sure why. It could be a mechanical issue with mine. Most SLRs can have their shutter speed set at any time.

[@GTXTi-db5xu]

19:42 I think my lens might have oil too, is it easy to fix?

[@DavidHancock]

If you have the tools and knowledge, yes. Before attempting this repair, check out some videos on cleaning oily aperture blades. The Fix Old Cameras channel is likely to be a great resource for repair topics.

[@ramonborreguerolinz8612]

Is it possible please to find one original Om1 to buy today, I am in Austria, maybe in Viena there could be stores to find it. Thanks in advance I am one Olympus lover.

[@DavidHancock]

Definitely. These are all over eBay, for instance. These aren't too hard to find. Vienna, I have to imagine, has camera stores that will have these.

[@ramonborreguerolinz8612]

@@DavidHancock Thanks I apretiate, and one question, the lens with the red fiber or what is that, is possible to find? how is call that kind of lens.? Thanks in advance for so fast answer. I am an Olympus Fotographer and collector.

[@DavidHancock]

The lens with the red grip is the 55mm f/1.2. Originally, it would have had the same rubber grip as any Olympus Zuiko lens; however, when I bought that one it was missing the rubber grip. So I grabbed some adhesive-backed leather that I use for replacing camera leather, trimmed it to size, and put it on the lens. After I replaced the grip I found that I didn't like the lens having just that one strip of red so I made another to go on the front portion, and that's purely cosmetic. I bought the leather material from cameraleather.com (I think that's the website.)

[@ramonborreguerolinz8612]

@@DavidHancock Thanks David, very kind from you I take note of that

[@GTXTi-db5xu]

How should I bring it around with me? Is it bad to take it out in cold weather?

[@DavidHancock]

At minimum, keep it on neck or shoulder strap. If it's in great condition, a case is a good idea. In cold weather you may find some issues, such as slow apertures (especially if the apertures are a bit sluggish to begin with, which happens with some old lenses) and some of the shutter timing may start to be off. That said, it needs to be, generally, a few degrees below freezing before that happens. Old, mechanical cameras like these tend to be fairly robust in the cold.

[@Magnusscipioiterum]

Can you do a video explaining how to decipher the serial number and learn when your OM 1-4 was manufacture?

[@DavidHancock]

I'm not entirely sure there is a way to do that. Many manufacturers didn't keep records of those things and SNs weren't necessarily assigned sequentially during manufacturing.

[@Magnusscipioiterum]

@@DavidHancock I know that on the old Nikon series, you could date your camera by the first or last two numbers. I can't remember which is which.

[@DavidHancock]

@@Magnusscipioiterum Yes, I believe that's the first numbers. And Leica and Zeiss, of and Goerz, also have all that data findable online. I don't think that Olympus ever published that data of they have it.

[@nutello675]

I think the manufacturing date is written on the prism below the top cover.

[@GTXTi-db5xu]

8:11 The hot shoe on mine is not budging, the screw just won’t turn. I’m afraid if I pry too hard it’s gonna break or something. How can I take it off or should I just leave it on there?

[@DavidHancock]

I'd just leave it. The odds of breaking it are high.

[@GTXTi-db5xu]

@@DavidHancock I see. Where do you think I can get a cheap flash for my OM1? Do modern ones work?

[@DavidHancock]

@@GTXTi-db5xu All modern ones with a standard hot shoe will work. You'll want the most basic one that has: - manual power controls - a tilting and rotating head - and, optionally, the ability to be triggered by another flash so that you can use multiples if you want. Whatever flash you choose, a non-name-brand will be a good bet. Your local camera shop night have good suggestions.

[@GTXTi-db5xu]

@@DavidHancock I'm going to go and check the camera shop, thanks a lot. I'm not sure if you'll know the answer to this but for some reason my lightmeter seems to be a bit wonky, it works and then it stops working completely randomly. Do you think this is a problem with the battery or the camera itself? Edit: If I completely tighten the battery cover the lightmeter shuts off but if I loosen it a bit it works. Really strange.

[@DavidHancock]

@@GTXTi-db5xu For the light meter, sounds like a loose connection. It's likely right behind the base plate on the internal terminal wire connection to the battery chamber. Your camera shop may know a local repair source. It's not a hard fix and requires only a little soldering.

[@imgod5028]

My camera's film isn't opening it i've tried pulling the lever do I have to pull it harder

[@DavidHancock]

Better bet is to lift the release and try to wiggle the door. It's possible that it either jammed or that old light seal material has gotten sticky.

[@imgod5028]

@@DavidHancock Yeah it looks glued shut I bought it of amazon it seems defective because I can't open it at all.

[@DavidHancock]

@@imgod5028 Definitely reach out to the seller or request a return. There should be no issue with getting a return or exchange as long as you're within the return window. If there's is, call Amazon and see about an A-Z claim. Either the camera took a significant bump in transit and the back is jammed or the seller didn't do the best job of inspecting it. Either way, they should take it back.

[@imgod5028]

@@DavidHancock Okay thanks for your help

[@GTXTi-db5xu]

How do I reset the film counter? I've been playing around with it without film and now it's a random number.

[@DavidHancock]

The counter resets when the back opens. Video 2 has more detail on this.

[@GTXTi-db5xu]

@@DavidHancock It says "E" now but when I open the back nothing happens.

[@DavidHancock]

@@GTXTi-db5xu that sounds correct. IIRC, E means empty and it won't reset further than that.

[@GTXTi-db5xu]

@@DavidHancock I think "S" means start but I can't get it to that 🤔

[@GTXTi-db5xu]

@@DavidHancock I see now, I think whoever re-did the light seal covered up the button to reset the frame counter. I need to go in manually and press the button every time. You can see it in your second video 3:34, it's that little white dot in the light seal part right below the advance lever.

[@GTXTi-db5xu]

Do you think it’s fine carrying my camera around in my backpack wrapped in a towel? Will too much pressure from other things in the bag damage it?

[@DavidHancock]

It should be okay like that, yes. Just keep it on top. I do that often when hiking with a knit hat.

[@siddharghyamukherjee987]

What are the differences between OM-1 and OM-1n?

[@DavidHancock]

In a nutshell, the OM-1 had a bunch of incremental design improvements over the production run (for instance, when I had one of my M-1 bodies repaired the repaiman had to source parts as it used components that were phased out early in production.) The OM-1N includes all of the OM-1 production run upgrades and, I think, some additional mechanical upgrades aimed at providing long-term reliability.

[@siddharghyamukherjee987]

@@DavidHancock Thank you so much, I was searching for the answer but nowhere could I get it.

[@andreaxyz3959]

Thanks for the video, u sold me one as much u sold me a Ricohmatic 255 :)

[@DavidHancock]

Nice!

[@damium5]

I bought 6 months ago an om1 with the 50mm for around 40 euros, in the discrpition is said that the light meter didnt work. When it arrived it was a great conditions and the lens was perfect. the only problem was that is was misaligned =( still havent fixed it and dont know where to bring it here in Italy

[@DavidHancock]

Curious. Which part was mis-aligned? The lens itself? Are you able to remove the lens? The Manual Focus Form might have some ideas on repair options in Italy. Photrio would be another source to try.

[@damium5]

@@DavidHancock I think its the prism, because I have multiple lens and an om40 and the lenses are working fine on the om40( have no focusing problem), but the om1 has split screen focusing and then I focus to infinity everything is blurry and not in focus( even the split screen doesn't align) =(

[@amoremiodiprovincia]

federico, non so di dove sei ma nel nord italia ci sono molti fotoriparatori. in particolare a milano ce ne sono diversi e più o meno tutti molto professionali. cerca carminati, poliriparazioni, fotomeccanica ecc. ;)

[@ikasaharman]

Is this your favourite film camera? 😍

[@DavidHancock]

It's a great camera but not my favorite 35mm film camera. That would be the Minolta Alpha 9.

[@felixezra16]

Should I get an M-1 or an OM-1?

[@DavidHancock]

If you want to just have it as something to display as a collector's piece, an M-1. If you want to shoot it and have something you can have repaired more easily if needed, then an OM-1 makes more sense. The M-1 bodies have some internal differences that are different from later OM-1 versions and they're a bit harder to repair.

[@felixezra16]

@@DavidHancock I really appreciate the quick response. I wanted to get into film photography this year and I picked up a mamiya/sekor 1000 DTL. I watched your video on that camera and decided this camera was not for me. The OM-1 seems like the winner for me. Now I just have to find one

[@felixezra16]

@@DavidHancock is the MD version worth it? Is it an extra feature?

[@DavidHancock]

@@felixezra16 only of you have the motor drive. If you don't have one, then there's no benefit,

[@GG604]

Are you going to give a history lesson or teach us how to use it?

[@DavidHancock]

Video 2 shows how to use it. This video just shows the interface.

[@612morrison]

Why did olympus have such a poor iso/asa range

[@DavidHancock]

for the time, it wasn't poor. A big part of that would be -- bit of speculation here -- likely due to limitations of the mechanical couplings from the ISO dial to the light meter or possibly the manner in which the meter worked. Plus, the film back in the day was produced in a narrower ISO range than it can be produced in today.

[@brodybunter4453]

I take it you're a fan of Olympus?

[@DavidHancock]

Generally yes. They made great film cameras. Not my favorite but near the top for sure.

[@ZommBleed]

Firs!

You're suck lucky person to have an M-1... By the way, the 5,000 copies of the M-1 is a myth. In fact, they built 52,000 copies, which is still not alot, but 10 times more that the previous estimation. What is this red lens attached to it??

[@DavidHancock]

Thank you! That certainly explains why so many of them are available on eBay all the time. I did end up selling this camera. After my first M-1 was stolen in a break-in I decided I don't really need collectible cameras sitting around any more. The red lens is a 55mm f/1.2 that arrived with no leather, so I cut a strip of red replacement camera leather and put it on. I didn't like the look of it with just one strip, so I added the second accent strip up front.

[@ryankane7177]

Just got mine in the mail today. Non motor drive, OM-1. It's a beautiful camera and I'm looking forward to taking a lot of pics with it.

[@DavidHancock]

Fantastic!