On Camera Flash for Events MADE SIMPLE

[@willsimpsonphoto]

Happy New Year! 2025, let’s rock it!🎉

[@MadManTnT]

Changing the iso from 800 to 400 in your example will lower the ambient light, making the background dark. Also on canon you can assign a camera fn button to control the flash power. A more ‘easy’ trick to try is ttl flash with exposure compensation and set the flash in you camera menu to subject only.

[@willsimpsonphoto]

genius! didnt know you could do the camera fn button, ill have to play around with that!

[@GrantChambersphotography]

This was a great video easily explained thank you. I have my first event flash photography event coming up and this video was got me on the right path in understanding flash photography 👏🏻

[@willsimpsonphoto]

love to hear it! remember its all about making small tweaks while on location.

[@jasonbodden8816]

I don't mean to be that guy but a crucial thing to bear in mind here when using Manual flash is that the two settings that affect exposure globally (flash and ambient light simultaneously) are aperture and ISO. So if I have my ambient exposure in the location the way I want it, I wouldn't want to use either of those to adjust my flash exposure because my ambient light exposure will change as well. Let's say I'm shooting an event at f/2, 1/60, ISO 800. If I change my aperture from f/2 to f/2.8, not only does my flash exposure darken by a stop but so does my ambient light exposure (not to mention the depth of field will change as well and that's a huge part of how images end up looking). Or say I change my ISO from 800 to 400, the same thing happens - both flash and ambient light exposures will darken by a stop. So it's better to adjust the actual flash power up or down than to use aperture or ISO if the *ONLY* thing you want to change is your flash exposure. This keeps separate control of both exposures.

[@willsimpsonphoto]

@@jasonbodden8816 you make a valid point, there’s tons of ways to adjust for exposure in events. The way I show is just a quick way that works for people who want to get shooting. For me, I’ve found that the 1-2 stop adjustments don’t make that big a difference because generally I’m doing it to increase light not lower. The other thing is on depth of field, in general events, it doesn’t particularly matter. Slightly blurry background or a little more/less doesn’t make too big a difference. For another type of shooting maybe, but not for just general event Photos. Either way is workable, and there are other ways to even do it. I look at it this way, if the photos turn out good, and the client is happy, doesn’t matter how you got there.

[@jasonbodden8816]

@ Even if you disregard depth of field, I just think it’s super important for people to know out the gate that aperture and ISO will change both flash and ambient light exposures simultaneously and equally. A lot of the time the exposure difference can be quite significant. The example you showed here was VERY noticeable. One to two stops of light is plenty. People aren’t only going to be brightening exposures, they’ll be darkening them as well so they need to know how to do them separately from the beginning. While that last sentence in your comment is true, you’re teaching beginners that need to know that crucial piece of information. At least, that’s how I see it. We can agree to disagree. It’s all good.

[@willsimpsonphoto]

@@jasonbodden8816 yeah I see where you’re coming from. I’ve done both methods. As people learn more and more they can figure out which way works for them the best. Either changing flash power or adjusting settings a bit.

[@csc-photo]

Great tips! 👏🏻 New sub! 😎📷

[@willsimpsonphoto]

@@csc-photo boom! Woooot!

[@alclassicstudio3599]

Thank you 🙏

[@willsimpsonphoto]

youre welcome :)

[@buidoi72]

Thank you! This is great. Nobody ever talks about how to use manual flash on camera - only TTL. I've been looking for something like this.

[@willsimpsonphoto]

@@buidoi72 glad to help :)

[@barneypoole182]

Been shooting events for years, this is good advice..although personally I've got used to changing the flash power quickly so the background/ambient exposure doesn't alter between shots in same space, as it would do with changing ISO. The quick removing white card looks useful..I used lumisphere for a while, now using a rogue flash bender..but both are fiddly to take on and off..and bulky!

[@willsimpsonphoto]

@@barneypoole182 yeah I’ve cycled through a lot of attachments as well. There’s so many methods to try it just comes down to what you find is easiest to get the shot

[@SkidMark-v7i]

I think it's magnetic? That's why it's going on and coming off so easy

[@rickvaught244]

First: ETTL metering uses a sensor inside the camera, NOT on the flash. So ETTL measure the actual light hitting the sensor, not light reflected off the subject and back to the flash unit. Second: at a constant power setting, as in manual power, the difference between 6ft and 10ft is one and a half stops. Quite an exposure variance. If what Will does works for him then great. But not the way most experienced wedding photographers will do it.

[@willsimpsonphoto]

@@rickvaught244 yeah you’re absolutely right on the first part. Totally messed up on that one 😂 slip of the mind during video. Secondly, this is just a basic video for people to get started. Flash is quite “complex” at least it’s projected as complex. My goal here was to make it simple so people get started and adjust as needed. Sometimes the hardest part is just starting. However, this is exactly how I work and I’ve never had an issue. I just adjust as needed for the location I’m in.

[@DaveMcIntoshPhoto]

For events I use the Profoto A1 series on camera flashes because with a quick twist on the the flash power knob I can increase or decrease the flash power. A little experience and you know exactly how much to change it. This approach is faster than increasing or decreasing the ISO and your ambient light stays consistent. This feature alone made the A1 then A1X worth their price !

[@willsimpsonphoto]

@@DaveMcIntoshPhoto of course with practice changing the flash power gets super easy. And it’s not super hard to change on the godox system as well. That’s really good to know on the profotos. I’ve been contemplating the change but the price just hurts my soul 😂

[@leeromi1708]

K.I.S.S - Keep it simple, sweetheart. My lack of confidence lies in flash settings and you explained it in such a simple way. Thank you. Happy New Year!

[@willsimpsonphoto]

@@leeromi1708 happy new year! Glad to help!

[@darrinlalla9008]

I have confused myself so much... this video helped me reset! Thanks. Great advice here.

[@willsimpsonphoto]

@@darrinlalla9008 that can definitely happen! Glad to help clear things up

[@arttiz01]

Great video, thanks. I am just starting to use flash in my photography and this information is very convenient.

[@willsimpsonphoto]

thats awesome!

[@cmstj3]

Happy New Year! Helpful video! Can’t wait to try the things you mentioned! Thank you!

[@willsimpsonphoto]

@@cmstj3 that’s awesome!

[@gvjmediaproductions8078]

Happy new year bro from India

[@willsimpsonphoto]

@@gvjmediaproductions8078 and to you as well!

[@EricEdot]

i use the V1 pros that have the additional smaller flash on the front. Makes event shooting so easy. I go between the ettl switch and manual depending. No white card needed

[@willsimpsonphoto]

omg... i might just have to upgrade now... damnit... lol

[@WhistleintheWind]

Perfect video! Thanks.

[@willsimpsonphoto]

@@WhistleintheWind yay! You’re welcome :)

[@JackTse]

It helps bro

[@willsimpsonphoto]

@@JackTse thanks!

[@michaelsussman9577]

Thanks Will. Easy to understand explanation. I shoot a lot of events outdoors in harsh light. What suggestions do you have for on camera flash for that (or do you have a video for that)? With nothing to bounce off outdoors, do you recommend the white card like you have in the video and keep the flash pointed up? I have the MagMod flash diffuser, but I don't know if that's helpful outdoors.

[@willsimpsonphoto]

@@michaelsussman9577 it’s hard to beat the sun with a simple on camera flash. Generally you need a little strong off camera flash. However you could try direct light, meaning point the flash directly at the subjects rather than white card straight up or tilted back. Play around with the position of the flash and see what you can work out. I’ll work on getting a video on that.

[@StuartJamesMedia]

Hi Michael, I can maybe make a suggestion to you if it helps. If the light is harsh the best thing to do is try to have the sun behind the subject even if it's not directly behind and a little to the side. This way the sun does not cast shadows across the faces and then you can use a small amount of fill flash from the front which allows some contrast and colour back into the shot which would normally be a bit washed out. An alternative is that you hand hold the flash (with a trigger on camera) off to the side or use it on a short uni-pod to create more directional light or fill in on the shadow side to the harsh light. A speedlight has such limited power (75W/s) that in harsh light you will not be able to overpower the sun if you were able to bounce anyway. Hope that helps in some way.

[@michaelsussman9577]

@@StuartJamesMedia Thanks! I've started paying more attention to the position of the sun when I'm shooting outdoors. I'm most shooting pinups at car shows, so I can't always get the composition I would like. Unfortunately, I can't do off camera flash with my very old and obsolete Sony flash, which isn't compatible with my Sony a6700. I'm hoping to invest in off camera flash (and learning how to use it) this year.

[@andydlamini]

very helpful, thanks

[@willsimpsonphoto]

@@andydlamini great!

[@wanneske1969]

Great video but isn't your camera an R6 and not a 6D ? I've got the R6 (coming from the 5D and 1D series) and I love it !

[@willsimpsonphoto]

@@wanneske1969 yeah, the one I’m showing is an R6, did I say 6D?😅 I’m filming with the R5. Love them both, I originally shot on a 6Dm2.

[@PsybaTech71]

At the start of the video did you actually say that the Infra Red transmitter/receiver on the front of the flash is used to determined the ETTL power setting? I might be wrong but I'm pretty sure that the camera meters through the lens (on the camera) and then tells the flash what power setting to use. The infra red transmitter/receiver on the front of the flash is for triggering other remote flashes or for this flash to be trigger remotely.

[@willsimpsonphoto]

@@PsybaTech71 so I may or may not have pointed to the wrong thing in the excitement of the video 😂 the red panel from what I understand is for lowlight focusing

[@Jack-oc5ty]

​@@willsimpsonphoto: yes in TTL the flash fires twice once to determine power/exposure and then the actual flash exposed as determined from the first flash.

[@nimrod8045]

Hi. You just got yourself a like and subscribe from me. Great video, short and sweet, right to the point.

[@willsimpsonphoto]

@@nimrod8045 woooot!

[@jakubkarolewicz3678]

It made me wonder. Is it possible to change the output of the compensation changing wheel from its default purpose to flash compensation when the camera itself is in full manual mode, but the flash is in TTL. So the compensation wheel is useless if it doesn't affect the flash compensation. Just wondering, Sony user here 😅

[@willsimpsonphoto]

@@jakubkarolewicz3678 unfortunately I’m not sure on that. I doubt it but I’ll keep an eye for that ability.

[@jakubkarolewicz3678]

@willsimpsonphoto I think it would be a useful feature since in camera manual mode this wheel is useless. I tend to switch from auto iso to full manual while using flash in TTL. I have set one of my function buttons to be able to get to the flash compensation set quickly. The wheel would be a better and quicker option though

[@Jack-oc5ty]

I have EC and FEC on my canon. I can adjust Flash Exposure Compensation on the flash itself, or the through the camera in 1/3 rd stops of light. It does not change any setting in the camera itself irregardless of the cameras mode. NOT SURE IF SONY WORKS THE SAME. Research Flash Exposure Compensation in your cameras manual or search it on KZbin.