ONE Cable To Rule! Voron 2.4 CAN Install w/ SB2240

[@MandicReally]

To try everything Brilliant has to offer-free-for a full 30 days, visit brilliant.org/MandicReally . The first 200 of you will get 20% off Brilliant’s annual premium subscription.

[@linearburn8838]

If you need to run a lower volt fan on 24 volt you can use a inline resister to drop the voltage

[@DarthxRinzler]

Do you have the stl for the new cover with hex holes?

[@marckart66]

I love how you spoke about all the issues you had, including the user error ones. A lot of people forget about this stuff. They see these youtubers build these amazing printers with the idea that they never came across any issues. I have forgotten how many times I failed to crimp a JST connector properly only to find out on setup. "Why is this termistor not working?" "lets try other ports"... 2 hours later "IT WASN'T CRIMPED PROPERLY" or even better "i have blue and yellow wire left. I'll make yellow positive and blue negative to extend this fan" "why is there smoke............."

[@BarrettAnderies]

I was having similar sporadic CAN bus problems. I replaced pretty much every piece of hardware sequentially and nothing helped. Tried the 2240, 2209, multiple cables, multiple U2C boards, multiple RPis, reflashing klipper, updating all component firmwares etc. In the end the issue was 64 bit raspbian + CAN. For whatever reason when I finally switched to the 32 bit version of raspbian everything started working flawlessly. Have printed for several months now without a single issue.

[@Andy_ABG]

What MCU canbus board and pi did you have. I’m using an original octopus pro with a ebb36 wired to the phone Jack port using a pi 3 running the 64 bit firmware and I’m having lots of issues. Curious if what I’m experiencing is something similar to what you have experienced

[@BarrettAnderies]

@@Andy_ABG BTT U2C and RPi 3B+. Your problem is probably the 64 bit raspian OS. Try 32 bit.

[@slightlylifted]

This this type of video and last weeks, are the ones I enjoy the most. Hope to see more like this in the future!!

[@MandicReally]

These two directions are where I intend the channel to keep going so that is really excellent to hear. Thank you 🙏🏻

[@rossc12345]

0:41 for the puppy, we found a compression vest for dogs helped a fair bit with thunderstorms. There’s also a plug in diffuser by Adaptil that helped a bit, was most effective when anticipating a thunderstorm To turn on in advance

[@Der_Ed]

What i probably would do with the LEDs is to have them pure red at layer 1, and slowly turning to pure green at the last layer

[@RotaruCosminLeonard]

That's actually doable. Run a macro on each layer. Based in the layer nr out of the maximum, do the changes ... I will actually try this with the logo color

[@marsbio5603]

​@@RotaruCosminLeonardmake a video on it I'll watch it

[@xiar5546]

@@RotaruCosminLeonardor just use led effects. Does the same thing but doesn’t need any macros.

[@Algardraug]

I got the SB2209 RP2040 in the mailbox the other day! Looking forward to using it in my Voron 2.4 build next week!

[@mr_voron]

That is a clean looking rig. Well done man! I like all the personalized bells and whistles you added. Also, welcome to Clockwork2 experience!

[@MandicReally]

Much appreciated sir. Thanks for creating excellent platforms to build on. 👌🏻👌🏻

[@TechBuild]

CAN toolhead upgrade seems like a nice challenge and well worth it for the tidier setup with fewer wires and fewer points of failure.

[@o0mrrobot0o26]

I had a similar experience with an sb2240 I had installed on my Trident. Tons of under-volt errors and after trying many different fixes, I wound up just installing a sb2209 I had laying around in my shop and it has been working just fine.

[@jonathanmitchell7411]

I had the same issues too. My vendor offered to send me a SB2209 for free to replace the SB2240. It should be in my mail today🎉

[@o0mrrobot0o26]

@@jonathanmitchell7411 I didn't get so lucky. Vendor just sent me a thicker cable. 😞

[@robbie5629]

Great video! I’ve never seen you channel before and I’m amazed by the production quality of you videos. Great editing and great cinematography. Anyways, I just recently did this upgrade, and for anyone considering doing this, I think I’ve cracked the code on crimping those tiny connectors. First, break off one of the crimps and use it as a reference to strip back the correct amount of wire. Then, get a pair of needle nose pliers and squish the insulation of the wire just behind the stripped portion such that the squished section is the same length as the depth the wire must be inserted into the crimp. Then take the crimp and put it into your wire crimpers. By squishing the insulation, you should now have enough clearance to insert the wire into the crimp without issue, and you can use the end of the squished section as a gauge for how deep you need to push the wire. After I discovered this, all of my crimps in these tiny connectors were perfect. Hope this helps someone!

[@StevePrior]

I tried to use a few things to stiffen up the umbilical including string trimmer line and found that most of them had a coil shape memory that caused problems. Then I came up with what appears to be the ultimate solution - a bass guitar string! Bought individually from a local guitar shop they're cheap ($2/each), are flexible yet stiff enough, and have no shape memory. I think this trick is the way to go.

[@Stahlfabrik]

Which one did you get? The lowest E?

[@StevePrior]

@@Stahlfabrik The thickest one they had (I'm not a guitar person so I don't know what note it is). I actually bought a few of them thinking I would probably need more than one to get the stiffness I needed, but found that just one worked perfectly.

[@blackcollarfiend]

Adding a USB port from the Pi to the front of the printer is absolutely genius. I'm in the middle of building my first Voron Trident and will 100% be doing this.

[@ibot9828]

I use the CAN over the Octopus. You can just solder some wires to the bottom of the board and add a connector which then connects to your wire harness. CAN_H and CAN_L are actually labeled on the bottom of the board. You just have to flash the firmware again with canbus bridge enabled. All other steps are the same.

[@Roobotics]

4:31 is that 'geometry issue' one of the cuts they make into the part that tricks the slicer into oulining material in areas where it needs to be stronger? I know I've seen that in some other parts, as long as it's manifold!

[@MandicReally]

Comparing the original SB to this mod version, it was a handful of simple geometry mistakes. A slight gap when adding a part here, a missed deletion of unnecessary geometry there. The internal "additional perimeters" on the StealthBurner are about preventing light bleed from the LEDs, not strength. The StealthBurner shroud itself just holds LEDS & fans, it doesn't need to be particularly strong. In fact I print it with less Perimeters & Infill than typical Voron parts to reduce weight.

[@nunolfprods]

Great.. I also have the CAN on mine but you are missing one more thing to simplify the cabling even more which is the sensorless homming, it works very well on mine. Cheers

[@bobbyshoe8621]

Am I blind or where is your x end stop? Love the y end stop and can cable termination you did. Really great build.

[@FelipeBalbi]

That purple wire looks so gooooood! Great tips!

[@scaledoctors]

The chamber LEDs are very nice. I put one row on the right side and the other across the front. I think this give a much better view than lighting it from both sides. Kind of like your lighting for your videos. You want light from the front too. Also makes the lighting for my usb camera mounted in the front right corner much better. My CAN cable and reverse bowden come from the right side, like yours, but on a Trident they they are much closer to the top of the unit and often would drag across the chamber LEDs on the left side. Moving it to the front gave better lighting and eliminated CAN cable/bowden interference when printed along the left side of the build plate. Keep up the great videos.

[@KennethScharf]

I ordered the mellow-fly version of that board. I am building an Enderwire. I will be using the Stealthburner with a Taichi hot end and two M4 extruders (for dual color printing). One of the extruders will be driven by the tmc2209 on the SKR Mini MCU, the other one from the CAN toolhead board. I will run the motor cable along one of the Bowden tubes. I wondered if I could use a Clockwork2 extruder with the Taichi hotend, but I don't think I can run the bowden tube between them as it wouldn't be a straight up and down run, but at an angle, and probably not enough room. I will use a drag chain for the CAN cable run.

[@oithetresen609]

I first had to use the original pvc wire for the inductive probe, because the supplied ptfe cable ran out. The cable broke as soon as the new ptfe wire arrived from aliexpress. Luckily I could just pull the wire into the cable chain with the old cable and a bit of electrical tape.

[@allthegoodnames.aretaken]

CAN issues are definitely fun. My similar issues with CAN were fixed by swapping the Pi 3 out for a Pi 4. I didn't even reinstall and used the same SD card.

[@shanemshort]

yes, that txqueuelen is 100% what was causing your issue. I had the *exact* same problem and that fixed it for me.

[@erik3205]

May I ask where you purchased your umbilical sleeve from? I've been looking for that type.

[@760creations]

Ended up ordering the Mellow CW2 gears because of this video, and I'm very pleased with them! Thanks for alerting me of their existence.

[@BobertSands]

Your little dog is like a teddy bear it's so cute!!!

[@deeply999]

Great video, but I would highly recommend the CNC tap, over the klicky probe, Way less issues and parts.

[@ThatOneStopSign]

I will say that I've had zero issues with my klicky probe. I haven't had to do any maintenance or replacements. I've set my Z offset once and only had to mess with it after swapping to a new hot end.

[@SMOKE3104]

I would love to know what the power draw is for this.

[@Heretic_Dezign]

If ever I needed confirmation that using Duet 6hc/1lc hardware which is 100% plug'n'play is the smart choice this is it, thank you

[@brendanm720]

I went CAN right out of the gate on my Trident -- I also used a U2C (even though I have the octopus 1.1 with the RJ11 port) and went with an EBB36 because I didn't want to mess with those teeny tiny JST connectors. You sir, are braver than I. I do like the way the two part boards work, though. That's got to be handy.

[@biozombieactive8792]

Look into a Thundershirt for your puppers. I had a dog that hated thunderstorms and fireworks, and once we put the thundershirt on her, she was more calm.

[@Ben-qh1ku]

I like the idea for the can cable’s and cover color, nice job!

[@MacBoy__Pro]

Have you released the stl/step for the stealthburner face found at 19:36 to your thangs? I can't find it and I think it looks better than the other versions I've seen.

[@StrifeJester]

Now I don't feel bad that mine has been sitting for a month while I am waiting to get the panel clips and things printed so I can get it fully enclosed to print the rest of the parts since my Voron is the only machine I will have setup for ASA.

[@xIsouLcruSHca]

Please share the stl of the cable guide you used for z motor cables!! I need them! :)

[@MandicReally]

Z Cable guide, what do you mean? The guide for the Z cable chain? That’s a default Voron 2.4 part that’s in the Voron STLs. If you mean the Cable Gland mount for the CAN cable? I did share that on my thangs page: www.thangs.com/mandicreally

[@xIsouLcruSHca]

@@MandicReally Sorry for my vague explanation hahaha. I mean the blue mounts at 10:56 that you use to zip tie all of your wiring onto. Are those the "VHB Cable Management Mount" from your Thangs?

[@MandicReally]

@@xIsouLcruSHca ​​⁠ohhh, yes those are my “VHB cable management” pieces. Just some longer ones that I don’t think I released. I just put out a few options of shorter ones as I figured those were more universally useful. 👍🏻

[@xIsouLcruSHca]

@@MandicReally Thank you Alan!! They look a lot cleaner than the cable management channel siboor sent me :)

[@Vicybear]

I use the ebb36 without the U2C on my machine, just hook the ebb with the rj11 on the octopro board. I have the same problem, everything is good at the begining. Then klipper shows lots of errors and disconnect the board. So I throw the can wire away, and use the USB cable to connect the ebb with the pi. And everything looks good~I use this way and print about 400 to 500 hours, no problem at all. I still have no idea what's wrong, but use USB cable is stable than can wire.

[@VACInc]

Hey Alan, great video! I had done a near identical setup around the same time you did (lost it when you tweeted about the pain crimping the tiny wires because I had literally just done the same). Your method of using nylon filament is DEFINITELY more ideal than the steel cable method as well. Curious if you had a reference link to the cable sleeving you used as I was looking to do similar with mine

[@MandicReally]

Thank you. The sleeving I used in this video was from here: www.titanrig.com/diy-modding/cable-sleeving-supplies/sleeving.html It’s nothing special just where I was able to get a color I liked to match the project. I usually just use basic PET sleeving (I misspoke in the video): amzn.to/3KohAee I believe I used 1/4” sleeving but I’m out at LTX so I can’t check to be sure right now.

[@Arek_R.]

Why they didn't add standard connectors used on the revo voron?

[@MandicReally]

I'd assume because that is just one of dozens of hotend options for this machine. Designing based around a quick connector that only 1 hotend ships with isn't a great idea. The Phaetus Rapido has a similar connector setup but comes with the pigtails to go to the board. I know the Revo does as well.

[@SteinerSE]

Confused now, I'm pretty sure I watched a video where you upgraded to Galileo 2 and made some custom parts for it. I'm currently in a pinch building my own Galileo 2 as it seems to need further modded parts (main body and door) to work. The reason is I'm using the new BTT SB2209 USB board that is slightly bigger than the old SB2209 (RP2040) and has a USB port on the bottom left backside that requires a cutout in the main body (found one that kinda works but leave the port useless, and the entire board ends up slightly angled inwards at the top (think some part of it catches).

[@kilianlindlbauer8277]

Nice video, but some tips and tricks i learned on pins and boards: people are not creative enough. You have a touchscreen instead of the 12864 screen, meaning you have at least one pwm pin free for the chamber lighting. Alternatively you have a raspberry pi with many suitable pins and powerful 5v psu for the rgbs. Also you can grab +5v from any 3 pin endstop connector, meaning you can use a rp2040 can board with your 5v fan. 24v and 5v are always available, the only issue comes with 12v fans. What i am meaning with people are not creative enough is that they see a heater port only as a heater port, although there is no difference between heaters and fans besides the power consumption, meaning you have 10 controllable fans on your Mainboard, 6 of them with selectable voltage. Or unused exp headers. Those can be used for adding 3 drivers or endstops/runout sensors, rgb or even fans if you add mosfets. Same goes for the gpio pins of a raspberry pi (fun fact, you can run an entire, basic printer just with gpio pins). Not enough thermistor ports? There are 3 adc (thermistor) ports on a raspberry pi. Basically there are only a few types of connections, input pins (on/off/digital or adc/analog) and outputs (communication/signal/pwm and switched power, although you can use any output pin with a mosfet to be a switched power). You have to think by that and many possibilities open up now. For example i have a skr3, which has the same issue like the rp2040 canboard, the jumper selects every fan voltage. Since im also using a ebb36 i can set the fan port voltage to 12v, so i have 3 controllable 12v fan ports. I also have 2 free heater ports, meaning two 24v fans. And i can choose any fan port to be 5v by grabbing plus 5v from any free endstop pin or exp header, regardless if im using a heater or fan port, since all have switched ground

[@MandicReally]

Fair points. I’ve reused various ports for other purposes on other projects. My V0.1 uses a random endstop port or something for 5v for that fan, etc. However I’ve had some ports that just didn’t want to join in on the fun. Think it was that 5V fan where I had trouble getting a port to control it’s on/off. 🤷🏻 I’ll have to give it more thought moving forward. On my projects that trial and error time eats up a lot of time that slows my videos down.

[@MonkeyWithAKnife]

Love the videos and your whole ethos about honesty, trouble shooting and failure/learning. i will be building my V0.2 as soon as the kit arrives.

[@realcrys]

Happy to hear I'm not the only one frying stuff 😅 excellent machine!

[@donald1792]

This is to help with your second channel

[@MandicReally]

Thank you very much for the support!

[@MallocArray]

Thanks for this review. Now I'll be aware of making sure I get a board that is JST-XH for sure!

[@leesmithsworkshop]

Great video, I really enjoy watching, you have a great style and it's always something interesting.

[@johboh]

Thanks for this! I started to convert my voron 2.4 to use the same toolhead board as well (but using USB instead of CAN). I'm going to use your Y endstop holder! Do you happen to have a link to the epoxy/resin you used to stabilize the wires at the connectors? I having hard time finding a similar product on (Swedish) Amazon.

[@MandicReally]

Here it is on American Amazon: amzn.to/3QpxjgI And here is their official website: notaglue.com

[@johboh]

@@MandicReally thanks! I should be able to find a European alternative. I tried using UV cured solder mask, but it has to be spread thin to cure all the way.

[@chilson88]

Awesome video and beautiful machine. What software are you using to designs your own products

[@JorandeRaaff]

Hey! Question about the cable routing: I see you've routed the CAN cable through the Z chain, did you have any issues with the cable eventually breaking due to movement? I started out this way but am currently trying to work the cable through the top exhaust grill. Don't really like this solution though so am curious if you ran in to problems doing it this way.

[@timf7354]

May I ask for a recommendation on a 350x350x250 minimum build volume printer? Is the voron 2.4 a good printer for the price for this size? Are there others you look into?

[@MandicReally]

With that size constraint, I'd look at the Voron Trident. It is slightly less complex than the 2.4 & potentially can go a little faster since the gantry is fixed & the bed travels up and down. Arguable on that. They run a few dollars cheaper than the 2.4 usually too since they have less motors & a few less pieces overall. The market is expanding and building a Voron is getting harder to justify, but at the size you are talking, it is still the way to go IMO. No one is really making a good value 350mm build volume machine at the moment. Not on the same level as a Voron anyway. The 350mm Trident kits are a little harder to find, but they are around.

[@timf7354]

@@MandicReally Thank you for the quick reply. I'm still researching. I've built a Railcore 4+ years ago. But I've been out of the loop on what's been happening in the last couple years.

[@seba62920]

hello, sorry in advance for my bad english I am french, I have a question, would you have a link to buy the two exit guides for the unbilical cord in your video. thanks in advance. :)

[@MandicReally]

Those are "PG7 Cable Glands" like these: amzn.to/3QQvGZL Not sure if that will help you as it is American Amazon. Here is an AliExpress link: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DEbzB7N

[@TechieNI]

Excellent project and love the tips, thanks. I notice you have an SSD. Can I ask what you use that for?

[@MandicReally]

I boot the machine off SSD instead of a SD Card. SSDs are designed for longer life spans and overall more reliable while not costing that much more. kzbin.info/www/bejne/pGeQcpeLhdCfgsk

[@reprinted3D]

Great video, Alan. I've yet to start the build on hy own 2.4, so it's really helpful to learn from your experiences! If I may ask, though, where can I find the STL from the Octopus fan solution that you used?

[@MandicReally]

I made it. I’ll see about uploading the design when I get a chance to make some final tweaks to it. Thank you as always. 🙏🏻

[@u2ramess666]

@@MandicReally I'd like the file for the fan holder as well. Thanks😁

[@AnthraxVX]

i did the same thing, and it was because silicon wire was speced in the BOM, only later did they say to use teflon wire

[@getlostinit3D]

Form and Function! One of the best looking Vorons I've seen. Love the color combo. Does it have a name?

[@Rmilyard]

Where did you get all the install info? Also what new STLs did you need to print?

[@tomyum6198]

Really well made video :) alternatively, you could have used the bltouch port for the leds before you upgraded to the can bus board. I'm forced to use the sb2240 also because I want to use that driver but they don't offer it with the bigger connectors...

[@MandicReally]

Ohhh that is a good point that hadn’t dawned on me. My next V2.4 will be… different so I may have to think outside the box like that. Thanks

[@F1v30h1]

I am planning a 2.4 build and right from the start running CAN BUS. Just seems crazy not to spend the extra 40-80 bucks to get it.

[@paulboulay336]

yesssss a video about your 2.4 !!!!

[@MandicReally]

Finally getting it done!

[@Wojecki]

That is a very nice 2.4, great job! That usb port on the front seems pretty nice, I will add it to my future switchwire and also I would love to see you making voron tridex. It looks like fun project :)

[@MandicReally]

It’s very useful. I wish I had time to add it to 250 & 350 skirts so I could release it.

[@zarg2289]

Are you going for a kit or straight from the bom? I'm unable to find a kit at all in the uk

[@SirLANsalot]

I see the problem you are having with the cooling of the drivers. Your 2.4 is an original BOM/self built one, not from LDO right? The LDO kit has you mount your electronics bay, 90dg different from the original Voron guide. As such the side fans that blow air through the bottom of the bay and directly onto the Otcotopus board and Pi first. You would have seen this with 3d Printing Nerds build, as both of those side fans get full power onto that board. You can see with yours the 2nd fan is just blowing, more like blocked, by the PSU meaning your getting just 1 fans worth of cooling on the 2209's. Also those fans in the LDO kit were kinda loud at the default 50% speed, slowed mine to 30% and so much quieter.

[@ogpennywise]

I need to redo my wiring now, you make mine look messy! What are you using that SSD for, if you don't mind my asking? Storage or running the pi?

[@MandicReally]

Running the Pi. I don’t trust SD cards and SSDs are so cheap these days, it barely makes sense to run an SD card. Except that it ties up one USB port & takes up more space on the machine.

[@ThePrintHouse]

Rock on man! Glad it is finally done!!!

[@opinion_panda]

I ended up switching from the sb2240 to the sb2209 because the tmc2240 kept throwing errors 17:45

[@MandicReally]

Low voltage issues? I never got to run mine but keep seeing folks with that issue though.

[@opinion_panda]

@@MandicReallyyeah, it would print for like 20 minutes and then crap out. I’ve had 0 issues with the sb2209 though

[@ja2ui0]

@@opinion_panda I feel bad for the folks running into issues with the SB2240 but I'm really glad to see people over the last month or so constantly talking up the SB2209. I got one of those just to be on the safe side. Obviously BTT is trying hard to keep the newer boards out there but with the unpredictability and high fail rate, they really should recall them until they can stabilize the design. But they won't, of course.

[@3dArtRJ]

Brother, I loved your video, your printer is beautiful, my dream is to be able to build mine, I just bought an Ender 3 V2, but unfortunately here in Brazil, Rio de Janeiro, there aren't many parts available, having to import everything through Aliexpress ... the prices of the pieces are very expensive, our money is worth 5x less than the dollar, but I'll try! I got great inspiration watching your video!

[@Budman17rd]

you know I would love if you made a video about crimping those wires (or crimping all wires) cause apparently I suck at it.

[@SteinerSE]

Are the thermistor holder STLs available?

[@akanar_1924]

I have CANBUS on two printers now. Once you do it a couple of times you realize dealing with the firmware is easier than running all those wires.

[@Mars3D]

Can you share STLs for the multicolor skirts?

[@jacksoni349]

So in general, you don't recommend silicon wiring for cable chains?

[@MandicReally]

It is not recommended in cable chains. The insulation rubs through inside of cable chains very easily.

[@jacksoni349]

@@MandicReally Can you share a link to what you recommend using?

[@mshawnmj]

So did u wire the klicky probe to the SB2240 cant find documentation on it i think it will work but not 100%

[@Exstaz]

I would suggest using the lgx drive gear mod for the cw2. You get the benefit of the gears but in a cw2 body. I have bin running mine for over 5 month now.

[@TopherTheLost]

I'm still a little weary of CAM. I've got a pair of V2's and the older one (under 6 months) broke a wire at 1065 print hours. So tempted to go CAM. It was an endstop so I went senorless for x and y, I'm still using the original harness. I guess I'm waiting for more guys like you to make this less scary! :)

[@TheJustinist]

Its CAN, btw. Controller Area Network

[@TobyDIOK]

What's the fan mount for the board you used?

[@justindelpero]

What chamber LED mod is that? Looks great!

[@aaronharnett7938]

Where abouts on the board did you plug the klicky into please

[@saddle1940]

Is it possible to run only using the Raspberry Pi, Can and Can daughter boards and not have a mainboard?

[@MandicReally]

I assume but what would that achieve? You’d only be driving a toolhead then. What about all the rest of the motors?

[@joekelley9311]

New subscriber... Couple of questions, I am looking at upgrading my trident and this video has been VERY helpful but why did you go with Klicky over Tap? and if you had the same voltage on the fans would you use the RP2040? and specifically what does the raspberry chip do for you on that version?

[@MandicReally]

TAP adds weight, complexity, & possible slop in the toolhead. I'd love nozzle probing over a separate probe, but I haven't felt TAP was for me. It is a great design overall, just not quite of interest to me. I think it may lose you a few MM of Y-axis volume too. As for RP2040 thing, I would consider it but I haven't tried it to say for sure. It wasn't available quickly for me, had it been I may have given it a run. The only real reason to run it is the larger connectors that I can see. The processing speed of the STM chip on the regular board is fine as far as I can see. It hasn't limited me in any way.

[@Voyajer.]

What was the full length of the cable used for the CANBUS?

[@JoshFisher567]

I'll take any JST form factor I we the super small pins they use in the Bambu P series combo ceramic heater and thermistor, same with the fan. The only reason to do this is JST is easier to modify. Especially the fan, 3 wires doesn't need 24 pins for the board Might be less but to many regardless.

[@Todestelzer]

Yeah switching out my original silicon cables as well with ptfe ones. But ultimately I will probably install a can bus board too…. The y cable chain especially is to narrow.

[@bluehollowarts]

This was one of the best mods that I did because it took a lot of strain off the gantry and my idlers.

[@MD-zb9ev]

I might attempt at desoldering that RJ11 jack and soldering in some headers.

[@JohnKlopp]

New subscriber from Joel's channel. This is a sweet looking build. Good job!

[@firelion98]

I had the exact "timer too close error". It happaned on my Voron 0.2 Mellow Fly-SHT V2.0 during input shaper. I fixed it with a guy in the voron discord by reflashing both the BTT pico (Can bus transmiter) and canbus board with the bitrate of 1,000,000 and not 500,000. This was the issue, the sampling rate was not fast enought to keep up and it just errored out! More ppl should know that!

[@BCY]

Interesting this video came up now. It seems I'm the exception to the rule here. I kept being told I would be replacing my silicone diy harness in like 200 or 500 hours. Well I have been waiting for that to happen and it took over 2000 hours for it to finally break. I'm going CAN now with an umbilical but I'm realizing I need to move my end stops.

[@lynniedeez2047]

Get your pup a Thunder Jacket. My 9-year-old dog is terrified of thunder.

[@verminproductions]

What config changes are neccesary to implement x and y endstop relocation?

[@MandicReally]

Change the X endstop to the pin you attached it to on the Toolhead board. That’s it’s otherwise they are triggering off of the same physical stop points as the original ones, so the location info should be the same.

[@smolz1]

Do you have a link to the Bowden tube holder ? Looks nice and slim

[@MandicReally]

The one that holds the end of the reverse Bowden close to the spool? That’s a default part of the Voron 2.4 and comes with the STLs for the project. github.com/VoronDesign/Voron-2/blob/Voron2.4/STLs/Spool_Management/bowden_retainer.stl

[@southavenueproductions1842]

what STLs did you use for the the board cooling fans?

[@edwardboston8600]

The link to the Y Endstop Relocation PG7 Mount is dead. Is there another link to this part?

[@MandicReally]

I’ll check and update it, but here it is: than.gs/m/910854

[@edwardboston8600]

@@MandicReally I found it. One question is what to do with the X end stop? Does that stay in the same place? The original Voron harness (LDO kit) has both the X and Y end stop on one connector. Do I just need to separate the pins and leave the mount with the X end stop where it is? The description on Thangs doesn't say anything about it.

[@MandicReally]

@@edwardboston8600 The Stealthburner carriage mount has a spot on it for the X Switch to mount to. You have to mount a switch there and wire it however your machine requires. For me that was direct to this CAN board I installed in this video. At 6:51 you can see it at the bottom of the picture under the gantry. Don't know why I didn't show that more closely.

[@edwardboston8600]

@@MandicReally Okay. Looks like the LDO kit has it done different. Will have to review the SB manual. Thanks.

[@edwardboston8600]

@@MandicReally As a follow up to this. I am using the Chaoticlab Tap and it has a place for the X endstop. However, it looks like the have modified it since I bought it. It now has a bracket for the X endstop. Will have to find something or maybe even go with sensorless endstops and just not worry about it.

[@trugbilddrachen]

Nice shirt. BTT has a version with a different mcu and uses larger connectors due to the complaints of the micro.

[@TheJustinist]

He mentioned it later in the video

[@trugbilddrachen]

@@TheJustinist must have missed that comment when watching. Thanks

[@Jagjagula]

Hey Man!, I have this exact same issue are you happy with this setup?

[@MandicReally]

Which issue are you referring to? I've been quite happy with this setup. I had one CAN Board flake out on me though. It was reading wildly incorrect hotend temps. I swapped the board and was back up and running in 30 minutes (after the part arrived). Otherwise it has been printing beautifully for a couple hundred hours since I made this video and I'm very pleased. It is running off some big parts with a 1mm nozzle right now and just chugging along.

[@Jagjagula]

@@MandicReally I've got the leviathan board coming and was going to try canbus for the first time with it but idk....may stick with the chains...I'm just scared of can

[@kittrelleberwine]

I would love to see a video comparison of the LGX vs the MellowFly Gear.

[@MandicReally]

No way I'm converting back to compare, but my next build will have an LGX Lite again, so it won't be a 100% apples to apples comparison, but may be decent to compare.

[@DarrenPoulson]

Not thought about sensorless homing? Even fewer wires to worry about.

[@Raytenecks]

I noticed you used the original Klicky and not a Klicky NG... Any particular reason there? I did the NG and I've not been totally happy with it, and I'm thinking maybe I should just print the original after all. In particular, I think the probing isn't as consistent as it should be, and I've had issues with the adjustable rail mount drooping when I print at higher temperatures. The standard mount didn't line up for me, so I had to go with the adjustable... I'm thinking maybe the original non-adjustable mount will also work with the old head.

[@timkoehler3669]

CAN splits the N00bs from the Pro's :) I think I can say that after successfully having migrated my printers to CAN

[@Cyanotic413]

I had a lot of trouble getting my CAN working on mine. Mine ended up being something simple that wasn't clear in all the guides that I was looking at. I also blew my SB2240, I'm kinda glad I did though with all the problems that I've seen people on the Discord complaining about the 2240 causing problems and at that point I was done trying to get everything to just run so I bought the 2209. I was also wondering if you're going to upload your door cover?

[@MandicReally]

I wasn’t sure if folks would be interested as it works with the BTT main Clockwork2 body. I’ll upload it if folks want.

[@aravindsatheesh4848]

Hello i am building the voron 2.4 pro from formbot. I have a doubt in the step after flashing the SD card and i don't know how to connect it using ssh after the flashing step. I am a beginner and it would a great help if you could give some help with this part.

[@MandicReally]

Hi, I've not produced a detailed guide on this but I've shown the process a bit in the past here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/rYmnZHijgN5mgJYsi=bhHza3DmVmEA0khG&t=525 Michael over at Teaching Tech has done a more in depth video on SSH'ing into a Pi (host): kzbin.info/www/bejne/gYK5goKnZbmjndE Then you just need to follow the steps for Klipper setup: docs.vorondesign.com/build/software/

[@aravindsatheesh4848]

I am actually running into another problem here for setting up can0. After following the steps when I run the command " sudo ifup can0" I get a error saying there is no device can0 And later I found the katapult is not flashing when I run I'd command Do you have any suggestion for this ?

[@aravindsatheesh4848]

ID command *

[@anhtuanchtc1843]

can you share SB door ? 12:47

[@MandicReally]

Just finally finalized the design and released it: than.gs/m/914383

[@anhtuanchtc1843]

can you share SB door ? 12:47 @Mandic

[@MandicReally]

Just got the design finalized and released here: than.gs/m/914383