FAST Core-XY Ender 5 Plus! Mercury One.1 Build

[@MandicReally]

FINALLY RELEASE THE FILES!! You can find all the files I designed for this build available on my Thangs page now: thangs.com/designer/mandicreally

[@SHOLAR_RACING]

Do you have the files for the toolhead? I’m getting ready to do the mercury 1 on my ender 5 plus and I’m going to be using the orbiter 2.0 with the revo quick change. Thanks for any insight

[@Zam_God]

Do we need to pay your subscription on Thangs to access these models? Also like the other person, where can we find the toolhead files?

[@MidMadn]

Awesome Job. I had that same extremely slow response problem with my 5+ - Mercury 1.1 conversion with a BTT SKR 1.4 turbo and Pi4. On occasion I got a low voltage warning and also a throttling warning. It seemed to be a problem with this Pi4 that I bought new. I tried everything to fix it. I switched it out with the Pi4 on my Ender 6. The problem followed the Pi to my 6. I tried a new class 10 MicroSd card. Fresh install of rasbian-lite / Mainsail. Multiple power adaptors. Powering it through the USB-C. I even bought the Meanwell RS25-5 110vac to 5vdc power supply just like yours. I this time tried powering through the GPIO pins. Same problem. I tested the output and it was exactly 5.0 volts. I found a thread on reddit where someone was having the same problem. The only thing that fixed it for them was to increase the supplied voltage to 5.7 volts. The Pi4 is rated for up to 5.5 volts so this person was pushing it a bit. Supposedly 5.5 volts did not cure the problem but 5.7 did. I turned my voltage on my Meanwell RS25-5 to 5.6 volts and it runs perfect now. Nice and snappy like my other Pi4. I'm not sure why this one seems to need a little more voltage but I figured I had nothing to lose as it just wasn't any fun when it was taking forever to respond to any input. I agree on the EVA 2.4 not being the most appealing tool head. I found the EVA 3.0 to be quite a bit more eye pleasing. There's a special version of the EVA 3.0 customised for the Mercury 1. jon-harper.github.io/E34M1/ Any chance you will be sharing any of your designed parts? I'm mostly interested in the Z chain setup assuming it would work with the stock 5 plus bed. Thank You for all your content and help.

[@Duckferd]

5.7 might be ok depending on the length of wire, because there is also voltage droop (you would have to test voltage output at the end of the cable).

[@riktanius]

I am using the E34M1 and it is great. The setup is really fleshed out and includes ABL options for nearly every option out there. Highly recommended. I also am hoping to see those parts out there, as I am building out another M1 and would love to reinforce my machine.

[@217RockStar217]

Thank you SOOO much for that link!!!

[@bongsurfer]

Now that the hype for Bambu style printers is settling down and with more access to high speed multi material printers, I love seeing pimping older printers. It feels like modding cars or computers. Honestly, this build looks great. I really enjoyed the video 👏🏻

[@MandicReally]

Honestly at ERRF this weekend some folks and I were talking, I likened printing to cars. We will see a lot of people moving forward happy with their Civics, while some of us will keep on buildinghotrods.

[@DakotaTrucker]

Exactly the sentiment I expressed the other day on a FB group. Someone was whining about people "wasting their money modding their printers, just go buy a Bambu" on an Ender 3 page. I told them to think about it like buying a Camry or building a hotrod or kit car. That for some folks it's about the building.

[@Gnew111]

@@DakotaTrucker As a Voron fan boy I compare myself to being one of those people who builds tiny ships inside bottles... it's not for everyone but it's my hobby! Cool video!

[@Elkarlo77]

The Question is what do you want from a 3D printer. Do you want do have nice prints. Go Bambu Lab. Do you want a little experience on the way, get yourself a Prusa MK4s kit. Do you want a more open Plattform, go Sovol SV08. The older Creality Printers are great for modding thanks to their framing, but honestly you need to mod them. The biggest Problem on 3D Printer modding: You essential need two Printers, one for the Parts and one for the modding. I am modding repairing and using 3D Printers since 2015 and started with i3 Kits. My second was essentially bought to get the first back into working order. And for that Bambu's are great. And why i am here, i am looking at something similar for my Tronxy X5SA-400 which is sadly a pro. What means no real easy modifications from rollers to linear rails.. Great build and inspiring. Maybe i get around and make new extrusions for my Tronxy to get it up to speed and precision. After 400 hours the rollers are showing the sign of roller decay. So a rebuild like the Mercury one would be a solution.

[@alphaforce6998]

I don't think that Bambu printers were outclassed yet. If you like tinkering this is good, but for people who actually want to print with their 3D printer and not spend time trying to make random components work together, it's hard to beat paying $700 or less for a bambu that is going to print fast and high quality out of the box.

[@janbroz4681]

trick for the pins an bearings, put the bearings on bed of a printer set to 50°C an pout the pins into a freezer. Should fit just fine without sanding.

[@drwhang]

I have always struggled to see a use for multicolor prints because I am not very interested in printing figurines but I can admit it looks vastly better with the black accents versus how I imagine it would be with only the pink you chose. A+ grade on your modded parts too, I can only imagine the hours in F360 that are behind those little touches. Awesome Vid.

[@Duraltia]

Single Tool Head 3D Printers with MMU capability are not just handy for Multicolored 3D Prints but are also a boon when it comes to 3D printing parts that require Supports as they allow you to print the _Support Interface Layer_ ( the last 1-2 Layers between the Supports and the actual Part ) with a compatible but different secondary Material that will still _stick_ to primary Material used for both the Supports *_AND_* the actual Print but will not _bond_ to it even when used without the usual 1 layer clearance Gap thus resulting in decently smooth finishes on the Underside and by _only_ printing the SIL with a different material you'll omit the need of constant and very time intensive material Swaps ( not a concern for an IDEX but that's a different story ) until you reach the layer where you actually need it.

[@richpaul6806]

As the other commenter pointed out, it can be very handy for support material. Another use would be to have text in a contrasting color. I plan to print out some trays soon and I would like to label them so I know what is in each one. Without multiple colors, the text would be nearly impossible to read. I could use some nail polish or paint on the raised text but the second material will not wear off over time.

[@steev182]

I have an Ender 5 Pro with a Microswiss Direct Drive/All metal hotend, but haven't used for a couple of years. I dusted it off, added a Sonicpad and had a horrible time even getting it to extrude right. Got mad and bought an X1 Carbon. But I don't want to throw the Ender 5 Pro out. This is inspiring me to build it up as a Mercury One.1, especially now I have a reliable printer to print the parts for it!

[@nonchalanto]

FYI, the SKR 3 EZ has an onboard IC that supplies 5V at a high enough current to power a raspberry pi. Just tap into any free 5V pin on the board (like on the EXP ports, or WiFi adapter, detection ports, etc) and your pi will be powered automatically once you turn it on. No need for a separate PSU! I’m doing that on my build and it works perfectly.

[@MandicReally]

I'll use the 5v rail on the board for LED strips at some point on this build. I tried using the EXP port for UART connection to the Pi on ReAniMaker and had no luck at all with it, so I didn't even start down that path this time.

[@fgil45]

@@MandicReally Clean DC for each device separately is much better, for me, in audio it is very noticeable

[@jadendeoliveira4032]

@MandicReally can you post the kipper config files?

[@davydatwood3158]

KZbin decided this was what I should watch whilst eating breakfast, so I did. I hope it helps to know that, on year later, your pain has entertained me! My first 3d printer was an Ender-5, just a basic one. I hated it and had nearly abandoned 3d printing as a hobby when the X1C came along. Mostly that experience has taught me that I'm not a person who wants to build and modify a printer, and that's a good thing to know. (And a question still not being asked often enough when someone says "What's a good beginner printer?") Anyway, at this point I've come to realise that a huge source of my problems were the gorram wheels used to tram the bed. They'd only hold position for a week or two, tops, and then I'd have to fuck around getting everything lined up again. I see that your fancy rebuild here still has four manual screw wheels for gross tramming of the bed. Do you not find them frustrating? I was surprised that your mods didn't appear to involve a better solution for that - although it's possible I just didn't recognise what I was seeing.

[@MandicReally]

My machine really never had a problem with those wheels. I know a lot of people do. I tighten the bed springs down really tight. The added pressure makes the bed more stable and keeps pressure on the wheels so they don’t loosen up as easily. So no, it really hasn’t been a problem for me. This why I stuck with it in my build. Thanks for watching. Nothing wrong with just wanting to print and not mess with a printer. I’ve said it many times lately, printing is quickly turning into the car world. Some folks want a daily driver, others just want to wrench on their “hot rod”.

[@xetranok6391]

This upgrade is awesome and there is amazing documentation now. No issues at all with this project

[@JonLaRue]

I love the "it's so reliable let's tear it apart" lol

[@muuzen7731]

How convenient, I just finished my Mercury One build a couple days ago. Was going to do the serial request today or tomorrow. I love the Mercury One.1 and Hydra Mod, and since it was my first DIY build it'll always hold a special place in my heart

[@Heretic_Dezign]

You just gotta love the 100% plug'n'play nature of the Duet hardware with their superior canbus (can FD) protocol on the LC-1 toolboard

[@AlphaKennyBuddy]

The cable management is insane! Would really love to see a video tutorial about how you did them.

[@slightlylifted]

Fantastic build and video. Still loving the new focus on longer videos. Always a great watch. Thanks, man!!

[@cheetahkid]

Love the pink one! I got my Mercury one.1 for at least 2 months now. For now with other 13 printers on top. Mercury one.1 is my favorite.

[@MandicReally]

I’m excited to use it and give it a thorough run, but my initial impressions are super positive.

[@tech_world_modz]

Do a update video and post some of the links to the parts you used.....I so bad want to see this finished

[@RathOX]

I really want to see an enclosure built for it like how people have made a P1P companion cube etc

[@Gryfang451]

For the laggy Pi4 - Switch to something like a Sandisk Ultra Fit and change the boot method to USB (Available in the Pi Imager). Micro SD cards are garbage for running an OS, which could be the problem. Second, does that Pi have a heatsink on the chip and a fan to cool it? If not, then I would consider adding those as your build plate is heating up the surrounding air, and may be causing the processor to slow down due to high temps.

[@MandicReally]

Heat sinks on the chip, memory, & usb controller and a 40mm fan constantly blowing directly on the board. The Pi runs cool even with the bed hot. I run my 2.4 off a SSD via USB, but almost all of my other machines run off SD Cards without issue. Some off this exact same model SD card. 🤷🏻🤷🏻

[@kieran977]

+1 for checking the SD card, or at least doing some diagnostics to check its read and write speed

[@ollierinko9387]

@@MandicReally Could just be a case of a monday-model SD Card. But, the best option would still be to run an SSD over USB. Or better yet, swap to something like a Banana Pi and use an m.2 nvme drive.

[@hobbyistnotes]

Grate wiring, can't imagine how long it took to make it look so nice! I had similar CAN issues and just switching over canboot solved this problem instantly, also klipper build version have to be the same for both motherboard and toolhead boar, over all I agree that documentation for CAN could be better. For response time have you tried running UART instead on USB between RPI and BTT, I see you have screen connected via GPIO pins and per expirinace I know it might be occupying the UART pins but if not Id try that, if not you can also try different cable let say if you use USB2 try USB3 and opposite with correlated ports. Good luck with that build hope to see finished version of it as it's looks amazing.

[@johboh]

It's beautiful! I enjoy these build videos, keep em coming.

[@MandicReally]

Thank you very much. Glad the suffering is worth it. 👌🏻👌🏻👌🏻

[@afkafkafk]

One thing to add E5Ps is backlash nuts on the z screws, I added some POM ones and Z tilt adjust in Klipper takes maybe a single attempt before its done, the brass ones wobbled terribly and drifted on power offs

[@MandicReally]

I didn't draw attention to it, but I did install some POM Anti-Backlash nuts, you can see them at 25:38

[@afkafkafk]

@@MandicReallyperfect, your build is basically perfect

[@afkafkafk]

@@MandicReallyHave you had any belt grinding issues on your build, I built mine ages ago but been having issues with belts riding up on the pulleys and shredding my gates belt

[@MandicReally]

@@afkafkafk No issues for me. I'm fairly sure somewhere along the line they improved belt alignment as one of the design updates before it came out of Beta.

[@npmrc]

I’m wandering how big is the penalty of keeping x motor on the gantry while upgrading everything else. I feel like difference would be not as big as people think.

[@magicmanspaz]

No follow up video on how it works?

[@joeferris7689]

Any fix for the slow klipper instance? my ratrig is horible like that!

[@justinwalker4307]

How much would this upgrade cost? I have an E5-Plus and I would love to be able to print faster. Also, what are your thoughts on converting it to a multicolor setup now that you made it faster? What setup would you use if you were to consider doing so?

[@asw27x]

anywhere to find the cable chain mount for the Z axis?

[@kevinseah1602]

Wow. Super nice and clean setup! Video came just in time! I am going to do the Mercury one.1 mod on my ender 5 plus as well! Inspired to do it!! Love your contents! Awesome job! 🎉

[@mikestansbury2510]

the ender 5 plus was my second 3d printer. still learning, slowly. getting better with it, finally figured out how to level it perfectly, then all of a sudden i had problems with the upgraded extruder. under extrusion was a huge hill for me to climb and i finally figured out what was wrong with it. then after 2 weeks of perfect prints, it started under extruding again. fixed it, but now the bed won't hold the print down in one corner and it seems like under extrusion again. everything is new. gears, the pulley, upgraded out of the bed springs, and spent 15 hours trying to fix it yesterday. it's never taken that long for me to figure out the problem. totally stumped on this. i figure it's a good idea to get that micro swiss extruder so i ordered it. if this don't work, do you have any other ideas of what might be the cause? my bed is cleaned, but has some sticky residue from the wolfbite i used a while back, so it can't be that. it's really odd. any advice would be welcome.

[@SuperCinemaCraft]

I just ordered most parts from the description, hopefully will get started here shortly

[@bartacus3521]

Great job Alan, really like the build! One FYI, from a guy with a half-built Mercury 1.1: if you gut the Z-axis and get rid of that entire smooth-rod infrastructure, you can move the bed around in the frame, front-to-back, and get more build area. I replaced mine with a mish-mash of 3d-printed parts, and some modifications of other parts from the Voron world. I'm able to do 360*360 on the X/Y now. I'm still going to end with a dual-Z bed, but I personally don't think the Hydra, or any 3-point system, is worth the hassle, but that's just IMO.

[@riktanius]

can you show what you have done? Do you have a build log somewhere? I am curious

[@bartacus3521]

@@riktanius No sir I don't, it's gathering dust ATM. Got too busy with other stuff.

[@Ben-qh1ku]

Hey Mandic you did a really nice build, I like a lot of the color you used, I build my with almost the same part the Revo Six, Orbiter V2.0, Manta M8P with CANBus and hydra the only think is I have to used the same heater bed due to Fabreeko don’t have that bed plate for months a been looking in the page and always said out of stock, your were lucky to get one. I like the combination you use for the Z Endstop and bed level with Knick’s. I like to see future video above the programming and the fine tune made on it. Great video keep post more about this build.

[@curtisbarclay2292]

Man, that looks awesome👍👍. about 19:08 you talked about the wiring. Great wiring looms. So tell us, how many zip ties did you go through all because of that sneaky little wire you didn't see when you made the ties🤣🤣

[@MandicReally]

100+ 🤣🤣🤣

[@cyberviking5734]

Very random question: What feet are you using on that electronics enclosure? I keep seeing the same looking ones on everyone's build, but I can't find any info about them on the ZeroG Bill of Materials. I've googled, I've watched YT videos, and searched reddit, but can't find any info. I've already printed the electronics enclosure, but I can't find any info about the feet to use! Any help is much appreciated!

[@MandicReally]

I’m using these ones: amzn.to/3Z0meGS (affiliate link) But I prefer these ones: amzn.to/4hJtRsI Either will work. I just had the ones I’m using left over off a Voron after I switched to the ones I like better. (They are softer rubber and isolate a little better I think.)

[@birdmananyweather1681]

Dude those corner brackets......i need those. Plz kind sir.

[@AndrewAHayes]

Is there an enclosure that is compatible with a Mercury 1.1 conversion?

[@SWOODWithArod]

Dude this thing is mega, nice job man! I really liked the color and that wiring job is on point!

[@FireRescue_Guy]

Besides the frame braces, Eva, and the zero-g files, what are you willing to share? I have the 7” touchscreen that I’d love to modify your 5” mount and make it fit. I’m already running a modified stealthburner and a front mounted rail on the X gantry. I also re-did the skirt to house fans, if you’re interested.

[@anthonymartinez9682]

Damn , I get so motivated to push my builds further after watching this.

[@Flashtony76]

I have a trusty ender 5 plus and I am wondering if it was worth it. My ender is quite a slow machine. Do you have an update on reliability, speed and quality?

[@MandicReally]

It is a big undertaking, but it is a totally different machine now. Speed? It is capable of printing 150-300mm/s+ all day long. As long as the hotend flowrate can keep up, it will rock it. Quality has been really good for how little tuning I've put in. Honestly I ran some production runs for another video using this and my Voron 2.4 and the Mercury One.1 did better. Reliability is spotty at the moment. That is purely due to my electronics configuration though. I still need to fix the issues I had when I made this video, I just haven't had time. It doesn't get used as much as I'd like as a result. The hardware & design are rock solid, the electronics... that's on me.

[@Flashtony76]

@@MandicReally I just upgraded to an creality spider speedy ceremic hotend and all metal extruder as my printer was not printing anymore after i tried to print petg on the stock hotend ;( But when printing the pla+ i have lying around, the layers are not sticking, if I print above 40mm/s. Maybe the Filament is to old 6 Month+ unsure. I will try some other Filement after that. I regret not going for a high flow hot end, but as I could not print any parts I wanted something I knew I could just drop in. At least it is back printing again ;)

[@gregjohle3257]

Check the baud rate between that toolboard and the can adapter.

[@MandicReally]

Both are at 1,000,000. Doesn't mean there isn't a communication issue there for sure. I'm planning to switch away from the SD card on the Pi (SSD storage) & will likely reflash everything fresh when I do.

[@eliblessed]

love the color choices! I actually made my Voron 2.4 (350mm) and MPCNC to be Hot pink. One of my favorite colors!

[@kaizoor]

For the rotation. Did you try to turn the whole os within the Pi with boot/config.txt?There you can use display_rotate= and use the numbers 0 to 3 for the 4 variants that a display could be turned

[@MandicReally]

I did try that. That is how I got the picture of KlipperScreen to rotate how I want, however the touch inputs didn't rotate with it for some reason.

[@kaizoor]

@@MandicReally aah now I see which direction the problem is going. The touchscreen uses a matrix which spits out points to the OS to tell where an input was. Libinput on the raspi has an option to transform the matrix according to the screen rotation. Normally you give this information in your xorg config. I would look up the config key: Option "TransformationMatrix" I hope this helps you find a solution

[@Dalroth]

That sounds similar to an issue I ran into with my octoprint installation. Some weird incompatibility with the new version of raspberry pi os, the camera and the official 7 inch display that I didn't have with the exact same pieces of hardware 3ish years ago. Unfortunately I never found a working solution and converted the camera into a USB gadget with a spare pi zero instead.

[@oOWaschBaerOo]

i posted how to rotate the touch input too, its in libinput-40.conf, you gotta put a rotation matrix in, i posted 3 variants in a comment here@@MandicReally

[@captainmcadams]

I had a similar problem with the touchscreen on a non 3d printer related project where I spent literally hours messing with dtoverlay files and the config file for the touchscreen. Finally figured it in the end, rotated the screen and touchscreen to match, but it was a nightmare! I think it’s because different versions of PiOS also do it slightly differently and I had a non standard (budget) tft. Keep at it… the answer is out there!

[@zbigniewwielgus1249]

Response time - what is bandwidth? Also check USB cable -i have problem when using my ender 3 with klipper, very slow reaction -change bandwith and usb cable help

[@MandicReally]

1,000,000 and same USB cable I order for a lot of my installs. Running the same one to a U2C on my 2.4. Gonna recompile and setup fresh soon. Then maybe switch to USB operation of the EBB36.

[@Armor3dprinting]

Nice job! I just did this conversion myself, actually. You wouldn't by any chance be willing to share your corner braces would you? I would love to remove the front bar for the same reasons. Thanks in advance.

[@MandicReally]

Yes, those are available on my thangs page: than.gs/m/22154 I’ve yet to test the effect of the removed bar. I have an add-on that puts a bar down lower and out of the way, I’ll test that Vs no bar for the next installation of this series.

[@Armor3dprinting]

@@MandicReally youre awesome, thanks!

[@benjaminshewan1613]

Excellent work! Cannot wait to see your follow-up video.

[@TechieNI]

Are your designs available for download by any chance?

[@johnmarro5352]

I would love to see more on the Orbitor with the revo. I recently put a revo cr on my ender 3v2, and have been thinking about an orbitor extruder for it. honestly a video explaining how the canbus works and the works would be amazing! thank you!!

[@MandicReally]

I run a Revo CR & Orbiter V1.5 on my original Ender 3. I showed it on my Revo CR review. kzbin.info/www/bejne/qobCZp2andqee8Usi=iEpeMtj0ntf3Vi8N I doubt I’ll have a chance to do a canbus video. It’s a complicated topic to explain in a non-dry manner, and videos like that result in me becoming tech support for the entire audience. Which just doesn’t work out well. Sorry. Quite a few folks have covered it pretty well and companies are working to improve it all the time. Hopefully someone updates it soon to be easier and I can justify that.

[@p.dd.p790]

Out of curiosity, did you post the corner braces, your build is quite nice.. I have a couple of these, was thinking about doing them the same.. did you ever get the lcd to properly go portrait?

[@MandicReally]

All of my files are on my Thangs page: thangs.com/designer/mandicreally The screen I have not rotated yet, ha. It is still that way. I'm going to try and revisit this sometime soon and see if we cannot correct that on a stream or something.

[@qabalah78]

Amazing mod! Love the colours dude. So well done.

[@oneandy2]

I'd love to do one of these but used ender 5s go for too much in my area. Is there an "official" BOM for the parts required in addition to the kit for those of us considering building this as a "scratch built" new printer? I'm not afraid of cutting, drilling, and tapping.

[@XiphiasGladiusMaximu]

With that auto z calibration you mentioned that you could swap nozzles because of it, could you swap bed materials as well? say g10 garolite to glass and not have an issue as well?

[@MandicReally]

Correct. It resets Z offset everytime based off whatever nozzle & bed surface is present at that moment.

[@XiphiasGladiusMaximu]

@@MandicReally I thought so, I just wanted to be sure. man, that is a dope build. Now we need an update!

[@EsotericArctos]

I had the same issue with portrait orientation. There is a code you can add to the config.txt in the boot folder on the Raspberry Pi that sets up the touch screen orientation as touch matrix is completely separate to the screen orientation. I can't remember the code off the top of my head now, but it was somewhere on the Raspberry Pi official website.

[@Sir-Hisham]

Hi there .. i want to buy a CoreXY 14” cube volume printer, modern speed no record breaking intended Im up in line for the Prusa XL (after 2 years) but apparently its not what people was expecting therefore I’m not going through with that .. what would u recommend ? Thanks

[@thatguyisjames]

If that screen is like the 7" Raspberry Pi touch screen. Inside your /boot/config.txt you need to set the rotation. The hang up is it is not "display_rotate=1", it will be "lcd_rotate=1" as it is coming out of the display flat ribbon and not the HDMI. Additionally for the 7" Raspberry Pi screen, you have to comment out the "dtoverlay=vc4-kms-v3d" section. Otherwise the touch screen does not work when rotated. Fingers crossed it's just a simple setting issue.

[@scottrichard6579]

So how much faster is it? How long for a benchy?

[@coreypeacock9900]

Watching this back a month later and noticed that smexy looking revo nozzle holder. Is that your design or did you find it somewhere?

[@MandicReally]

My design. It’s just rather specific to the use case so I wasn’t sure if anyone would want it. I should release it either way.

[@coreypeacock9900]

@@MandicReally if you'd be open to it, it's a great design and I feel it would get a lot of attention.

[@georgedunn7573]

Would love to see a video on the beds. I was looking at getting one for my E5+ but wasn't sure if it's worth the cost. A detailed video of the differences and benefits would be great for everyone.

[@ziruszirus1654]

Hi Alan, Any possibility to buy some of the STL you made for this build? Thanks!

[@rbgenski]

I would like to run what you had previously on your 5plus on the tool head can I buy your stl files so I can run it on mine?

[@DrFate09]

Any plans to eventually enclose the printer or do you intend to keep it open frame?

[@MandicReally]

None. This machine will be relegated to PLA & PETG printing. Maybe TPU from time to time. I intend it to keep being my silly social media machine for the most part.

[@thebrain2302]

Late to the party but klipper feeling slow on this machine might be due to a slow microSD card. I had that problem and once I got a fast microSD the Sandisk Ultra or something, the golden ones, it's as fast as it gets.

[@_Manuwar_]

I love your videos, are the grids you put on the base free SLT? Where can I download them?

[@Redandfurious]

ps. would u choose thise over a voron 2.4?

[@brainiac9579]

Funny coincidence. I've been looking at doing this exact mod to my Ender 5 plus. Did you also "investigate" the Zero G Hydra 3 point conversion? I would really like your take on that too. Love the way you present your results and experience, by the way.

[@MandicReally]

I didn’t have any interest in the hydra at the onset as I intended to build a rear electronics enclosure. But after I switched away from that I’m quite tempted to do the Hydra. That said, I haven’t done anything with it and don’t have the parts to say anything about it.

[@joseholguin436]

I converted mine to this one, and then decided to take it one step further and modded the kinematic bed from the rat rig, and the XY system and hotend form the vzbot AWD! It's a monster!

[@jacobmurray3621]

⁠@@joseholguin436do you have any of the mods for the rat rig uploaded? I was planning on doing something similar eventually wanna do a tool changer. They are working on attaching a VZbot Goliath Hotend to one as well.

[@MidMadn]

I personally find the stock Creality 5+ Z system to be stable and consistent as long as you have separate drivers on the Z motors so you can take advantage of Z-Tilt. I have no desire for the Hydra mod. If it was a regular Ender 5 or 5 pro with the cantilever bed - I would be all over the Hydra. @@MandicReally

[@Dbigpinoy]

Cant wait for a Compair and contrast between this and Bambu Lab X1. Print quality and speed wise. I know this rig is best for large bed.

[@onepanther69]

The screen might be interfering with processing on the board, i had a pitft50 with 4g rpi4 and the wifi would not work with them bolted together, emi could be the problem

[@othoapproto9603]

the slow commands are due to the pink long frequency. Try blue it's shorter.

[@jeffm2787]

The CAN bus is designed to be highly immune to interference. So the extra shielding is not all that needed. Certainly doesn't hurt. If anything it would help reduce EMI from the printer itself to the outside world.

[@MandicReally]

CAN Bus is only as immune to interference as the quality of its cable, twist on the cable, and shielding it has. Nothing, to my knowledge, in the signal is particularly designed to handle noise. That's why cables like this exist. The one I used is specifically for moving components running CAN Bus communication. When I worked on cars the CAN harnesses were twisted & shield with grounding along their run. If anything they are MORE susceptible to EMI than any other signal wires on a 3D printer. In the design of CAN systems it is common to NOT run the Power Delivery along side the Signal Leads, as that is the most likely way EMI will be introduced. We cannot avoid that on 3D printers, so we have to mitigate how we can.

[@jeffm2787]

@@MandicReally So they are not immune to common mode noise?

[@_wambly]

Just got finished(well I wouldn't say finished but its printing) with my merc 1 build. I love what you have done with yours. I like your design for the z cable chain and wago mount. Are those available for download?

[@Foxy10-b6n]

Ditto

[@julithething2154]

Have you resolved the touchscreen issue yet? Because the way you can fix that is by changing the touchscreen config for xorg.

[@MandicReally]

Did that, it didn’t work for me here. I’ll try and revisit it when reinstall Klipper soon, but every xorg setup I found neither didn’t fit the issue or completely screwed up KlipperScreen so much so I had to reinstall Klipper.

[@borisdamole]

You have to apply a transform matrix to remap the inputs and if you have rpi 4b, just disable the kms driver: comment(#) dtoverlay=vc4-kms-v3d

[@clutchboi4038]

Could be a power issue with the Pi making it slow. The BTT PI has direct 12-24 volt input and I just ran wires directly to rhe psu. Probably be using the BTT for printers here on out

[@MandicReally]

Pi has a dedicated 50W power supply feeding only it. And if never trips any power errors as they usually do when under powered.

[@phillipbishop3967]

@MandicReally so I have an Enders 5 plus and I want to build it up like your E5+ before the rebuild. Do you have links to your parts? Thanks in advance for the help.

[@RBallarddesigns]

Great machine! It was nice to meet you at ERRF.

[@geauxracerx]

The exact video my Ender 5 plus needed made. Bravo

[@jadua1]

Have you posted those brackets anywhere or could i get your stls for them? i really want to relocate my front bar

[@Raytenecks]

I've got a pi 4b on my Klipper, and I've noticed that the emergency stop is *instant* but sending any other command to it, like 'cancel_print' will take a while. I've been assuming that it's still running a *ton* of commands that have already been sent, and it has to get through that queue before my command takes effect. This is probably less of a problem on a slower controller because there would be fewer commands in the queue. That's my pet theory, though.

[@radish6691]

Hey, I just saw you a few hours ago at ERRF! Didn’t get to chat with you, first time I walked by you were mobbed and the second time you were chowing down on a big bowl of noodles or something, definitely didn’t want to interrupt that 😁

[@MandicReally]

Hope you had a good time at the show at least. Thanks for letting me chom a bit. 😂

[@tomansager1]

Can you supply a link to the custom raspberry pi/screen mount?

[@Rmilyard]

@MandicReally I was giving an Ender 5 Pro to have. I have other working printer so was thinking about rebuilding this. Would you suggest the zero g 1 or Hydra? I don't know much about these so looking for advice/ideas.

[@MandicReally]

Hydra is part of the Mercury One project. It’s a better bed mounting system that uses 3 motors. I love the Mercury One and think it’s a great project if you are up for it. If you haven’t built a DIY 3d printer before it is a bit much. I’d recommend a Voron or similar machine first to get the experience, personally.

[@_adamalfath]

I'm experiencing same klipperscreen rotation problem on Bullseye. Using old stable Buster image solved this for me.

[@etx007blue2]

Hi Mandic, thank you for making this video. You inspired me to do this conversion as well on a used Ender 5 Plus I got for cheap. Would you be able to share the vector file of the electronics cover that you made? I'd like to make a cover as well to protect myself from the electronics, thank you so much !

[@MandicReally]

The zero-g team has files for the electronics box panels. I just made ones with my own laser that I could only fit a certain size of material in. If you order from someone like sendcutsend, they won’t have that restriction and the Zero-G panels will do well.

[@wsseibert]

Machines looks great! Can't wait to see future videos on it!

[@youtubehandlesux]

Why pins + toothed idlers isn't standard for every printer ever still baffles me. Just upgraded my voron using them and the build process is much simpler than fiddling the screws.

[@naps1saps]

Isn't the delay the command buffer at the controller, not klipper? At least that's what I think the delay is between octoprint/serial and marlin. Designed my own corexy from scratch. Wish I would have bought a pre built but at least I can say I made my own 3d printer 😂. Not going to lie, I'm jealous 😅

[@MandicReally]

Octoprint / Marlin works in an entirely different way than Klipper does. Klipper processes the G-Code on the Pi, so the parsing of commands is quicker. The MCU is just a pass through for I/O. So the commands are not processed by the controller but rather by the Pi. This SHOULD eliminate that bottleneck, but it could be an issue in some odd way all the same. I cannot eliminate that issue but it should not be an issue with Klipper.

[@naps1saps]

@@MandicReally oh yeah I do remember that. I tried implementing klipper but wanted 2 instances for 2 printers and couldn't get it to work as docker instances with serial connections and gave up.

[@mannybencomo5740]

What was your total cost for this project?

[@SianaGearz]

Trinamic drivers shouldn't have trouble with cooling in their normal lay down StepStick configuration. This is because the IC die is bonded to a thermal pad at the bottom of the IC enclosure, and then soldered and via stitched to the "back" side of the PCB, so that's copper and tin channels, which is the top side, where the heatsink is attached, so thermal impedance of the heatsink connection is fairly low. On the top side of the IC, bottom side of the StepStick board, the IC is covered with an enclosure made of black epoxy which doesn't allow much cooling, very high thermal impedance. A large heatsink doesn't exactly go to waste. I know it looks weird and inefficient heatsinking the IC like that through the opposite side of glass fibre plastic PCB, but it is really an engineered in solution and performs heaps better than it looks. Indeed the intended use is worse, with cooling just into some large PCB planes. Still, i prefer to have some airflow through underneath the drivers, just a little bit. Even just convection airflow. I'm not too picky about it.

[@bakedbeansgaming7568]

any chance to get the stl file for fish plate for the frame

[@MandicReally]

I'm working on updating the files for release NOW. Hopefully I will have them up later today, or tomorrow.

[@bakedbeansgaming7568]

@@MandicReally thanks a lot

[@StephenSleigh]

This video is awesome thank you. I have been using it as my benchmark for upgrading my ender 5 plus to core xy my only question is can you provide a link to your modded part prints I really like the beefed up belt adjustment and the LED mods you did to the EVA.

[@k20Fritz]

Is there a file for the angled braces? Disregard I found them THX.

[@rachaelb9164]

I usually don’t love pink but the light pink and black theme looks really nice.

[@christoskaragiannis7973]

Was looking forward to this!! Thank you!

[@teemo_fpv]

really nice Video, gave me some ideas for my own Project ! Keep up the nice work :)

[@MisterkeTube]

Just wondering... Summing up all the stuff that went into this, how does the cost compare to something like a 500mm^3 Rat Rig corexy? Both in price and performance... ... and ... is it just me, but ... PINK??? What were you thinking?

[@andrewr6861]

Would you recommend building a Voron 2.4 350 or doing the zero g mod. At the end of the day what is the "better printer"?

[@MandicReally]

They are different beasts. Do you need an enclosed machine capable of printing higher temp materials? There is an enclosure in the works for the Zero-G setup, but it will always be stuck with the "Built around an Ender 5" problem. The Voron build is on one hand more complicated (you are building from scratch) but also easier (better instructions all around). If you just need a machine to work and do all around materials with, the Voron is probably a better solution. But the Zero-G goes bigger (build volume), and in my very limited testing has potential to go faster than a basic Voron build. Very limited testing though, so that could change.

[@andrewr6861]

Thank you for the info I decided to give the ZeroG a try. Second question if you have time what is your preferred wire for steppers and such in bulk for building printers?@@MandicReally

[@andrewr6861]

Are the stl files you created for the bracing and whatnot available?@@MandicReally

[@wallie61-]

So I was searching in your thangs page, but I can find the files for the Ender 5 plus. Are the skirts and brackets etc not on there? Greets

[@MandicReally]

The skirts & primary motion components are not my designs, they are from the Zero G team: docs.zerog.one/ I'll have the rest of my custom designs for this machine available this weekend.

[@wallie61-]

@@MandicReally awesome! Since I have a bambu as my main printer now it’s time to show some love to my workhorse 5 plus!

[@JH-zo5gk]

The slow klipper response issue. Sounds like a code buffer maybe?

[@Duckferd]

Is this printer going to get some sort of enclosure kit or system? Debating between building this vs. a Voron Trident and obviously basing this off a Sovol SV05 would make this the budget king choice- but the lack of enclosure for ABS printer (or having to use a 'tent' one) would be a big downside.

[@DrFate09]

It's currently being worked on by the Zero G devs in their Discord.

[@HReality]

I’m liking that display mount.. I’d like to drop it on my ratrig v-core! Klipper screen has documentation on rotation.

[@MandicReally]

Those files you asked about are FINALLY on my Thangs page: thangs.com/designer/mandicreally

[@ozzman39]

Do u loose any x and y?

[@MandicReally]

Zero. If anything Ive got more without the carriage parts at the ends of the X Gantry the Toolhead can travel off the edge of the bed at both sides. I can make use of the entire 370x377 print bed now.

[@ozzman39]

@@MandicReally thanks