One CRT to rule them all? Introducing the Sears Total Video System!

[@retrobitstv]

UPDATE: Joe at IEC reached out to inform me that they also make a DB9 to Sanyo cable that looks like it would have directly worked for this monitor. If you want one for yourself, check it out here! iec.net/product/pc-cga-to-sanyo-or-amdek-3-monitor-cable-6/

[@nneeerrrd]

Please don't use those popping sound effects. They are very annoying, also not suitable for the headphone users. Thank you.

[@peteryoung100]

Your tips about finding and modding the Taxan cables are solid gold. I've got a couple monitors with RGBI in on VTR connectors, so this helps a lot. Thanks!

[@retrobitstv]

Glad it was useful. I've also pinned a comment with a link to a DB9->EIAJ cable the vendor sells. I didn't know about that one until they contacted me about the video!

[@trueblueblooded4976]

I had this exact TV monitor. It originally hit the market in 1984 and I used it with my Coleco Adam for years. After I moved on from the Adam I used it as a regular television until the mid-1990s when the flyback transformer failed and I finally retired it. I had never seen another one until this video. Amazing!

[@nickwallette6201]

Woah... this was our family's computer monitor for _years._ Some of my earliest memories using a computer (the C64) were on this monitor, and I used it all the way up through the NES's lifespan. Eventually it made its way on top of the fridge as a TV, when my mom's old B&W set finally died. She liked to watch the news and sitcoms while cooking. Truly a versatile little display that I didn't adequately appreciate back then. I do remember seeing the strange RGB input on the back, and of course I was curious what it did. I'm sure my dad told me it was for certain kinds of computers. It wouldn't be until _much_ later that I would've realized it was a significant QoL improvement over composite -- like, when component video got popular in the latter 90s.

[@vcv6560]

I bought this monitor (in grey-black motif) new in the summer of 84 after Consumer Reports in rating small TVs mentioned it was a marginal television but actually a respectable home computer monitor even at $350. Didn't realize at the time the C128 would come and that 80 column mode for the IBM PCJr (thus the odd connector) would nicely support 40/80 column output. I ultimately even made an adapter so I could connect it to the Amiga 1000. Over time the horizontal output transformer (flyback) burned out, that's when I found the origin of the design is Sanyo and bought a replacement through Sears parts. I repaired it myself, as I'm an EE, at that time just out of college. When it went out again within a year I saw in the schematic that there's an adjustment available for how much drive is provided to that output stage (power transistor) a tap on the circuit board for a lower setting. I made use of it and to this day the monitor has never failed again. I use it whenever in a pinch I need to just pipe some old 8-bit video out. So nice to see someone else has discovered it too. I've only run into one person, in the late 80s who was using it with an IBM PC in CGA mode. That's where the green button and compression comes in handy it gives you a poor man's Hercules monochrome if you only have the single video card.

[@anthonyferraro5569]

My Sears "Total Video System" was manufactured on 1/1988. My unit has all digital tuning, no side panel or numbers to insert. Still have an RF switchbox connected to the back of the unit. I ended up making my own RGB cable once I found an EIAJ8 connector. Thanks for sharing.

[@retrobitstv]

Nice, so they made more than one model and for a good number of years. It's crazy how there's almost no mention of them when you Google the name though!

[@probnotstech]

10:30 I think that little switch was for the automatic fine tuning. Disabling it with the door open prevented people from tuning in a station with AFT on, and was common with TVs and VCRs that used presets like this. The idea was you tune in a station as clear as possible with AFT off, then turn it on to lock in perfectly. Tuning in the station with AFT on means you could be right on the fringe of the station without knowing, and if the signal became weaker you would lose it entirely. 11:30 That was also common on older TVs. As you found out, it was an inexpensive way to switch between the 75ohm coax and 300ohm screw terminals instead of adding a switch. The wire actually goes to an internal matching transformer (or balon) that connects to the 300ohm screw terminals. 15:15 It looks like the fine tuning for the preset is slightly off, I would try the fine tuning to see if that helps at all, and switch on AFT. It could also just be that electronics like this were also not designed to reject the type of high frequency RF noise that today's electronics emit, so RF on a lot of these old devices is much worse than it used to be. Especially with those old game switches. Loved the video, thanks for sharing!

[@retrobitstv]

I can't believe I completely overlooked the possibility that the fine tuning wasn't correct for the channel I had the Colecovision on. Today I went back and fiddled with it some more and the AFT does clean up the signal a bit and brightens all the colors up as well. There's still a fair amount of noise but it's definitely better than before!

[@jansenart0]

It's insane to me that old catalogues are actually useful for modern archaeology.

[@jansenart0]

@Lurch7861 Exactly how do you figure that.

[@ridiculous_gaming]

What a unique and wonderfully engineered analogue device. I would love to own one of these back then and today.

[@joysticksnjukeboxes]

There were so few of these kinds of things back then, a good monitor with a tv tuner built-in. Definitely a keeper!

[@kyle8952]

A monitor with a tv tuner built in is just a TV. that's all

[@F1083]

@@kyle8952 Nope With a TV you input the video on a tv signal set channel 2 3 or 4 With a monitor you can input the raw video with no converting to a radio signal. This thing can do either

[@GeoNeilUK]

@@F1083 "Nope With a TV you input the video on a tv signal set channel 2 3 or 4 With a monitor you can input the raw video with no converting to a radio signal. This thing can do either" In America, that might be something special. In Europe, we call that a TV.

[@geekwithsocialskills]

First off, all together now... Episode 69!!! I giggled right when you paused after saying 69. LOL! Very cool monitor. I got a lot of technology from Sears back in the day. My family did a lot of shopping at Sears.

[@geekwithsocialskills]

P.S. I think you should open it up and give the CRT internal adjustments a little tweak and peak.

[@retrobitstv]

Seems like there might have to be a Part 2 :)

[@alfredklek]

I love old manuals! With regards to the polarized plug, it seems that most building codes required polarized/grounded outlets by the mid 1960's or so. As a carpenter in the northeast US, I've been in hundreds of houses and have seen plenty of ungrounded, non-polarized outlets still in use. The most recent example was in a fairly high dollar single family home last autumn. I've also worked on houses with functional knob and tube wiring which, if you're not familiar with it, is pretty scary. People only upgrade their electrical systems when they absolutely have to, so I imagine Sears was just covering their bases.

[@emmettturner9452]

I’ve seen plenty of modern equipment manuals with the same warning.

[@emmettturner9452]

Also, Japanese outlets are generally ungrounded and non-polarized, which means there is no safe way to provide a chassis ground for AC appliances that use the most common Japanese outlets.

[@tw11tube]

Seems like the "green" button just disables the red and blue electron guns, but doesn't disengage the chroma/luma filter for decoding the composite signal. I've seen a real mono / composite switch on the original Apple IIc composite color monitor, and its effect is close to miraculous in switching between sharp colors (as sharp as composite can get) and fringe-free 80-column texts.

[@renakunisaki]

Pinouts in the manual, physical controls for even obscure settings, customizable number panel, compact but functional front panel... 80s tech was so good.

[@RetrogradeScene]

I love the elaborate settings controls. handy little monitor.

[@Adam-McG]

I’m so glad I watched this video. I actually own a Taxan RGB monitor and a Laser 128. I had no idea those cables were still available. I ordered two so I could have one complete cable, and another to modify with a DB-9 like you did. Great video!

[@retrobitstv]

Awesome, I was surprised to find them still stocked on that site. Glad you were able to get a couple before they're gone forever!

[@Breakfast_of_Champions]

Nice find, it definitely deservices a future proofing service!

[@geekwithsocialskills]

I support this message of future proofing the monitor.

[@CommodoreFan64]

This monitor for sure deserves to be restored!!

[@ian_b]

I miss that illustration style, you never see it any more.

[@bhdad]

I had this TV monitor. I used it for my IBM PC XT clone. Thanks for the trip down memory lane!

[@KennethDPedersen]

We owned one of these, I had totally forgot about that till I saw the tuners on the side compartment and my brain lit up!

[@ReedHansen84]

Yeah, give it a restore. I've been personally having trouble finding RGB monitors, such as the ones you could use for the Tandy computer. Good find.

[@SeekingTheLoveThatGodMeans7648]

A recapping might fix up the bad analog video and possibly head off other problems that might put the whole display out of commission.

[@SalivatingSteve]

Episode 69. Nice.

[@davek12]

Back in the day, a Sears branded TV was built by Warwick, which was part owned by Whirlpool and part by Sears. They sold it to Sanyo, who continued to assemble there for a while. So Sears TV assembled in the US with Japanese parts means Sanyo.

[@tndabone]

It's a rebranded Sanyo. I had a Sears branded version of the Sanyo 31c436, which is close to this one, but with a front glass and updated controls. Same connectors, same wire for the rf port.

[@primus711]

Its the same line as commodore 1701 1702 which many companies made sets from

[@retrobitstv]

Thanks for the info! The Sanyo looks identical on the back, there's no doubt about it.

[@retrotechtive]

Keeper for the Tandy 1000 - I'd love it for mine for sure. Would be interested to see if a recap improves things too!

[@ctrlaltrees]

00:10 nice

[@keithmichael112]

that's great that he kept all the docs edit: that wheel is classic over engineering, you know if you left a kid anywhere near that they would snap it right off

[@MoreFunMakingIt]

"Welcome to episode 69..........." 🤣🤣🤣

[@Warutteri]

**makes a facial expression that screams "nice" **

[@DuncanMcBride]

nice

[@haxmanz]

Nice

[@shmehfleh3115]

Long ago, I had an old Goldstar TV with that same jumper wire. It connected the 300-ohm screw terminals to the TV when the coax jack wasn't being used. I still have a little 13" Samsung TV with a toggle switch that performs that same function.

[@retrobitstv]

Cool, thanks for sharing - I guess the little jumper is more common than I thought. This is the first time I've ever seen it myself!

[@Charleshawn66]

lol on that slight pause right after the episode number. Well, I never heard of it, but I was all COMMODORE for the 80's, so if it wasn't in my Ahoy or RUN magazine, I didn't know about it probably. I also just hooked up a RF switch box for the 1st time in almost 40 years last week!! I got my MAX from Japan which only has RF out on channels 1 & 2. Luckly Robin from 8-bit Show And Tell just did a video on the MAX the day after I got mine and he told us that Japanese NTSC channel 1 & 2 is the same as U.S. NTSC channels 95 & 96! I was very lucky to still have a 13 TV that was analog and it went up to 95, so I was able to set the MAX to channel 1. TY for all the GREAT content you make for the retro community. I always look forward to your next episode!

[@geekwithsocialskills]

You are for sure keeping up with the Commodore... and the Commodore is keeping up with you!

[@retrobitstv]

Haha, I saw Robin's video as well :) Great timing on that. I keep a VHS deck around to use as an RF tuner when needed, but it's nice to have a display that can work directly with these old devices too. Thanks for the kind words!

[@timcross3461]

Coincidentally, I recently picked up a Magnavox CM8562 which has similar inputs to this monitor. However, no analog RGB. There is a mod out there to enable it. Wonder if there is also one for this monitor.

[@retrobitstv]

Analog RGB input would be a nice to have for sure and I'm sure there's a way. It might even be easy with your Magnavox since it shares a lot with the Commodore monitors already.

[@djcalle1975]

Thanks! I have a Kaga monitor which is the same as a Taxan with that same connector. lie you I was struggling to find a connector to make my own cable. Thanks to you I was able to buy the same cable!

[@idahofur]

You should look up a Toshiba Timm Monitor. I had one years ago and I wish I still had it. But the max res was only 800x600 for vga. But it was a tv and monitor.

[@coyote_den]

The one-touch color was done the way it was because you didn't want it on while you were adjusting the tuning. You manually fine-tuned each station for the best picture and color, then when you closed the door the automatic color lock took over. If you didn't get it close manually, the one touch didn't work well. Ideally you want the proper black level to be in the middle of the brightness control range. If you can't raise the black level up to a washed-out grey at the end of the range, you might need to turn the G2/screen up on the flyback, or the screen capacitor on the G2 line might be bad. Or sadly, the tube might be toast.

[@retrobitstv]

Ah, that makes perfect sense. Thanks for the explanation! It looks like I need to open 'er up and at least test the caps and maybe adjust the flyback. Is there a definitive way to know that the tube is bad to save some effort with a futile recap?

[@kyle8952]

@@retrobitstv using a tube tester, a gizmo that will read the emissions of the three cathodes by measuring between them and the heater filament. not all that difficult to build (basically a voltmeter and a few passives) but I don't remember where I put the schematic. The only power needed is for the heater so is safe to work with. often combined in commercial models with a rejuvinator/regenerator/bulb-bopper, which briefly extremely overdrives the cathodes to blow off corrosion and so restore emission. overuse will blow off too much cathode material and kill the tube.

[@theelmonk]

Not only did the one-touch system need to be close-on to work, the automatic tuning would be fighting your manual adjustment making it jump from untuned to tuned. You want the manual adjustment to change evenly so you can find the centre of the range. Sure, you could have a manual toggle. But that would be complicated for many people to understand, so the mechanical lock just applied it when adjustment was complete.

[@philg56]

I had one of these for my C128. Extremely sharp picture compared to a regular TV. Wish I could remember what happened to it....

[@CaptainRufus]

A normal Sears TV we got in 1987 had the UHF and Coax switch thing.

[@samsulummasamsulumma6898]

Good job! I thoroughly enjoyed this episode👍👍👍

[@bxdanny]

I first saw a polarized plug in 1965, and it was something new to me then (I was 13). Much to my surprise, I found that all the outlets in our apartment were made with one slot wider than the other to accept polarized plugs, although they did not accept three-pin plugs with separate grounding wires.

[@retrobitstv]

I have clearly remember non-polarized plugs existing but I cannot recall if the outlets we had growing up were or not. Just found it odd that they would have to call that out explicitly in the safety guide!

[@kenmys]

I found this tv a year ago in a goodwill for $20. Took awhile to research the cable but I also found a NOS for $20 or so. Was wondering what it would take to wire up a Nintendo or sega to it. Heard this screen also supported some more defunct color schemes.

[@coopercummings8370]

That connector is usually used for digital RGB, meaning it can't vary the intensity of any of the colors, it can only have each of R, G, and B off, low intensity or high intensity at a given time. Consoles that support RGB output analog RGB, which allows variable intensity for each color, so you aren't going to get anywhere without some complex circuitry to convert it and it is going to look terrible because you are compressing everything to 16 colors

[@kyle8952]

@@coopercummings8370 Well, the RGBI circuit in the TV must create analog RGB to drive the cathodes. So it would be possible to add another input on the back with some switching.

[@CheshireNoir]

I got a monitor with the same connector. Thankfully it came with the connector connected to a grotty old piece of wire. I made an adapter, similar to yours, but DIN 6 so I could make custom cables to connect to whatever system I needed to. Mine was the Taxan monitor your cable was designed to connect to :-D

[@tiemanowo]

31:21 looks like the red component is shifted slightly.

[@bradnelson3595]

Nice Frankenstein job on the cable. :) It works!

[@retrobitstv]

Thanks! Works great after I realized I soldered half the pins backwards anyway 😅

[@RetroGamingNook]

My parents had a console TV from Sears with a tuner like this when I was a kid. When cable TV was available in the very early ‘80s, we could could tune up to higher channels to get MTV for free without paying for a cable box before they started to scramble all signals.

[@BanazirGalpsi1968]

Polarized plugs were new and in fact a major pain in the kiester. That's why they made adapters for converting polarized plugs to regular plugs that could go in either way. The manual says don't do that. But if you had regular sockets you had no choice unless your going to take your socket apart, re wire it and put a whole new socket on it. Most people just ignored the book and used ab adapter. Even if they had a surge protector, the surge went through the adapter.

[@BanazirGalpsi1968]

Non polarized sockets were standard regular sockets for a long time.

[@stbagn]

This monitor is squarely a 40 column display with a slot mask tube and likely no more than 250-300 TVL. This is a great monitor but not in the same category as a legitimate 80 column 2000 character display with over 400 TVL such as a 1080. You do get that RF runner though which I think is cool for all your RF only systems.

[@seanyoder5578]

Great video Matt! I actually watched for these and just scored one on eBay. I had recently already picked up the proper cable in case I came across a similar unit and it works great with my Tandy 1000 as well. Composite is definitely showing shadows etc on mine.

[@retrobitstv]

Nice, enjoy it! It'd be worth checking to see if enabling the auto color correction helps out with your composite video as well as RF. I seem to remember it did make a difference.

[@fixitalex]

When I was thinking about one monitor for all retro systems I had to build it by myself. Because there is no chance to find device accepting Composite, S-video, SECAM, PAL, NTSC, Component and RGB

[@dglcomputers1498]

In Europe it's still possible to buy a new TV with all those features, RGB would be composite sync only though and it might not like CGA resolutions. Luckily via the SCART interface most TV's in Europe had RGB input. A simple passive adaptor works for my Roland S330 and any TV or HDMI adaptor that supports RGB SCART even though the S330 technically uses separate sync.

[@fixitalex]

@@dglcomputers1498 There's no difficult to modify TV without SCART to understand RGB-signal if we are talking about USA

[@retrobitstv]

My PVM-1342q does all of those with the exception of the component. If we're making a wish-list though, I'd ask for both 15 and 31khz support.

[@sa3270]

Total Video System is an awesome name for a TV. The only thing it needs is Commodore format S-video.

[@anachronisticthings6816]

The screen being a bit cut off is normal when using a non tandy monitor. Using the DOS command "mode 200" will fix that

[@retrobitstv]

Good to know, thanks!

[@gertsy2000]

Luv it. Needs a good clean.

[@retrotronics1845]

0:01 I can see already that when the screen is turned off the darkest image it can display is medium grey.

[@cheezenub]

Back in the day of my ownership of a Sanyo MBC-555 computer, this monitor model was my choice (and for many MBC-555 owners) as it was pretty much the same capabilities as the Sanyo branded CRT-70. The Sanyo CRT-70 was far more expensive then the Sears TVS so many Sanyo ownwers who wanted to get an RGB monitor went for it. The Sanyo MBC-555 used an 8-pin round RGB connector with unique pin outs so a special cable was needed. Most people made their own cable as it was far cheaper than finding a place to sell one complete. Thanks for the ride down memory lane.

[@darthwiizius]

I had an 80s Hitachi TV that used a round DIN plug for RGB, never had anything to plug into it though. This was a 22 inch tube on a PAL set in the UK.

[@crestofhonor2349]

Looks good. I’d love to see it recapped and tested with some more game consoles over RGB and composite

[@coopercummings8370]

This is a CGA monitor, it only does CGA digital RGB, which only supports a 16 color pallete, it can't display analog RGB which is what game consoles output if they support RGB, and there don't appear to be any converters from analog to CGA (there are converters from CGA to analog though) and it would look pretty terrible anyways because it would have to compress all the colors down to 16 colors.

[@Lachlant1984]

Before watching this video I concluded that the Total Video System was a colour video monitor only, I didn't realise it was also a TV receiver set. Does the monochrome button work in TV tuner mode? Imagine watching TV programs in monochrome green.

[@retrobitstv]

The green mode does work with the TV tuner but it's not pretty!

[@emolatur]

oh nice. I've got an LXI 9290 stereo system on my desk here at the office. Seems the stuff they shoved the LXI brand on was fairly decent. Pretty sure mine is Sanyo-sourced.

[@a4000t]

sears also had a SR2000 and i think SR3000 monitor with this same video connector. i had a SR2000 way back. I couldn't find a cable for it so cut some brazing wire,inserted it into the holes and soldered wire to it and it worked on the c128. It later died on me(flyback)

[@retrobitstv]

Haha, nice. I was thinking of just jamming some dupont jumper wires in there to test mine. Bummer about the flyback :(

[@JamesPotts]

We had one TV that had a short coax pigtail sticking out the back that you had to plug into the f-connector to use the 300-ohm terminals.

[@mikek5633]

I had a Sanyo 13in multi-mode RBG, Composite and Y/C monitor. It had that same EIAJ type connector on it. I also know that Sears contracted Sanyo for a lot of there televisions from that era. Maybe this EIAJ connector is a hold out from the original Sanyo design. Just a thought. I still have the cables BTW.

[@retrobitstv]

Cool, thanks for the info! I think I know what I need to do now: open up the monitor and see what's inside :)

[@MaximumRD]

Reminds me of how back in the day I wanted a Toshiba TIMM 20" Multiscan Monitor. It would have been amazing for my consoles as well as AMIGA computer but I never managed to get one.

[@NESADDICT]

I randomly got one of these about 2 years ago at a yard sale for $10. I screwed with the settings. That was a bad idea 😂. Here hoping to shed some light to fix it.

[@RalonsoF1]

In my opinion, you should recap it! It deserves that treatment after so many years, doesn't it? 😉

[@r0kus]

I was lucky enough to have purchased the Sears TVS at the same time I bought my Commodore 128 ("C=128") in 1985. The two together made a great pair. My TVS model must have been different than yours though, and I believe cheaper than the $1000 retail price you found. I don't remember a green-screen button at all, and RGBi input was via a more common cable connector. It also had an input connector yours does not, for mono video. What was great for use with a C=128 was that you could have the RGB and composite parts hooked up all the time (as well as the mono cable). I think your system was showing its age, as the composite input on my system was a lot clearer. I don't believe I ever tried to display 80-column text via composite though. (Why would I, with my computer having digital video available?) The RGBi and mono images were very crisp and clean. Performance as a TV was okay, but I did not often use it for that.⬅ A feature of the C=128 not often utilized was the ability to program the "80-column" chip. If you expanded its video memory you could more than double the number of lines of text, or even increase the number of columns. (I believe the 128D came with expanded video memory, but I had to solder mine in.) The TVS was able to display an 80x50 screen very crisply. For something like 132x50, the mono option was clearly best, though. BTW, one of the signals on the C=128's RGBi connector supplies the mono signal, and a special cable was needed to split that signal out.

[@traxonwax]

I remember in 1985 that polarized plugs were starting to become popular and people hated them. All those brown extension cords that didn’t have a polarized plug were made useless. In 1985, it really wasn’t all that far off from when there was no code requirement to have power outlets all over the place so extensions were widely used. Think of them as the 1980s equivalent to the 14 outlet power bar. Also, most older homes didn’t even have 3 pronged outlets, so it was common place to pull out the ground prong.

[@DodgeHooker641]

Is @The 8-Bit Guy aware of this item? I think he could use one of these!

[@tigheklory]

You need some color bars and adjust the red and blue cutoff. Capping the monitor wouldn't hurt too.

[@waynegoodwin3217]

Hello, can you please help me the the model and make or what it's called or were you bought the blue device that holds those connectors with the crocodile clips. Thankyou...

[@retrobitstv]

I've placed a link in the description and also on the Retro Bits Amazon storefront. Here's the link: amzn.to/3Be9W1E It's pretty useful but it can be a bit annoying to get it set up just right and the clips don't grip smaller parts too well when the insulators are installed. Still pretty useful sometimes!

[@waynegoodwin3217]

@@retrobitstv Thankyou for replying

[@_.OX._]

This has got me wondering if there is any noticeable difference between the 3 types of RGB connections on your Sony PVM Matt.

[@retrobitstv]

The only flaw I can really find with the PVM is that it requires combined sync for analog RGB, whereas the 1084 can handle both c- and hv-sync so there's no need for external converters to use different systems. Otherwise, the fine dot pitch aperture grill + 50/60hz operation, analog and digital RGB, PAL, SECAM and NTSC decoding - the Sony is unrivaled in my stable. The Total Video System is quirky and cool, but it's no contest for the 1084 or the PVM.

[@alextirrellRI]

RF performance these days is a little different depending where you live and what signals could be interfering. I question that little jumper as well -- maybe a different RF box into coax would yield better.

[@retrobitstv]

Certainly worth a try! Also, probably a composite mod wouldn't hurt either :)

[@drkamilz]

Restore it and use as an RGB 80 column monitor.

[@apatheticmeat]

Would you be able to scan the owner's manual and make it publicly available somehow? I have the same monitor, but have not been able to locate the owners manual for it online.

[@GeoNeilUK]

I never would have expected an American TV to have UK style preset buttons and preset tuners. I've only ever seen old American TVs with the tuner dial. The presets were a necessity in the UK because instead of having local TV stations broadcasting on a set channel number, we'd have national networks broadcasting from different transmitters, each one broadcasting on a different frequency per network and location (usually within a narrow subband on the UHF band, this caused hell at digital switchover time, as digital TV used the entire UHF band) Instead of having channels numbers, the buttons were initially labelled for the networks (BBC1, BBC2, ITV) and then people would naturally use preset 1 for BBC1, 2 for BBC2, 3 for ITV, 4 for Channel 4 and a spare for the VCR or satellite receiver for Sky. Looks like the Sears Total Video System is a European TV reackaged for the American market, composite and RGB inputs were more common due to our TVs automatically being multi-standard (they had to be, back in the day parts of Europe used different colour standards - either PAL or SECAM depending on where you were, NTSC was also included although nobody ever used NTSC in Europe) SCART had both composite and RGB inputs (and outputs!) built in alngside stereo audio in (and out!) it was like a 2 way HDNI for SD analogue devices! Looks like all the green mode button does is turn off the red and blue guns in the TV. I think Sears should have kept the SCART socket on the back! It might not have made sense back then as it just would have been a huge mysterious connector with 21 pins, but nowadays, those Sears Total Video Systems would be well sought after over there all you'd need is those European adaptors which would plug straight into the Sears Total Video System... or a SCART adaptor as they're known over here!

[@retrobitstv]

It was definitely unusual to have a tuner that was adjustable here. I've added RGB SCART connectors to a few of my other CRTs so I can use them with game consoles and computers - very handy to have a standard. I wish we had one here prior to the VGA HD15 connector.

[@NimhLabs]

I would suggest definitely recapping it at the very least. Maybe also look at various servicing stuff that you can do to help return it to its possible former glory

[@darthwiizius]

Putting up a test grid and colour pattern and adjusting the alignments and colour spaces would be a good idea. I'd also by minded to see if I could find a new flyback transformer for it, that's probably starting to get a bit noisy after all these years. It should be possibly to find one(might even be some stocks of actual tubes left too), either new old stock or from some retro tinkerer supplier.

[@tetsujin_144]

5:38 - I don't think polarized plugs were new, just a lot of people had old wiring. Some people still have old wiring.

[@davidkroeker1821]

Yes, please recap it and then show it with a C128.

[@NerdThingsAndMore]

Good video thanks

[@Gr1ff1n_]

0:08 Nice

[@2tailedfox711]

When it comes to display recapping, I live the the motto of it ain't broke don't fix it.

[@JVHShack]

Other than the vertical sizing, I would just "leave well enough alone". It would be nice to be able to produce a modern solution to that proprietary connector, but on the other hand, it would seem that the space it occupies is roughly the same as a DB9. For episodes 77, 81, 84, and so on, I would hope that those would be dedicated to machines that were released in those years respectively in the 20th century. If the most common computers have been covered on this channel, there's bound to be an obscure computer or games console. 😉

[@retrobitstv]

I try and keep my eye open for obscure/rare items that don't cost a $fortune on eBay. They're certainly few and far between!

[@10MARC]

Looks like a fairly decent monitor.

[@VW7472]

WOW, I have one of those cables in a box somewhere never knew what it was for till now I think it had a DB9 on the other end but been a while since I have looked at it. Now I need to dig around and find it as it will bug me till I do. LOL Great Video 👊👊👊👊👊

[@nbrown5907]

Lol I remember tv's with that cheap rf switch. I had a sad moment when you pulled that UHF antennae out.

[@jansenart0]

I had that Tandy.

[@seanys]

Nice.

[@johneygd]

Better then those lcd screens these day’s🤣

[@L0wcash]

Fun find, but it doesn't hold a candle to the Commodore 1084 of wich you own multiple examples. This thing uses a standard tv tube so it will never look as sharp as real monitor with a fine dotpitch tube. So it's only good for using it as a screen for unmodded consoles with RF-output only.. I'd sell it to somebody who doesn't own a 1084...

[@primus711]

Ofcourse it doesn't its just a 1701/1702 monitor 1084 was meant for amigas

[@retrobitstv]

Yea that's my conclusion as well. It's neat and quirky and the RF input is nice to have for old systems where it's your only choice but the 1084s (and PVMs) are superior in every other meaningful way :)

[@CoyoteSeven]

I vaguely remember that JCPenney was also selling TV/monitors with that same type of RGB connector at that time. I guess someone thought it was a good idea to use that kind of plug?

[@TrinityCodex]

Nice!

[@timlocke3159]

I'd like to have seen some color RGB screens, perhaps a game.

[@retrobitstv]

I wanted to shoot a bunch of demos and Tandy 1000 software but my XTIDE card broke in the middle of filming so I could only use what I had on floppy :( If there's a Part 2 I'll grab more RGB footage and also C128 content.

[@loganjorgensen]

I've often lamented the terrible AV input status of screens in the past so seeing something like this warms my heart. Simply having RGB pins to work with is a godsend when so many SDTVs bitd didn't even have Composite. Kind of surprised old school S-Video isn't present in the form of RCA Chroma & Luma ports, in hindsight I think the S-Video standard was too proprietary for it's own good and should have stuck to RCA cables. Same with with the MANY bespoke computer cables and connector types. :P Generally what I found at least in NA was the divide between TV and monitor being one of the major obstacles for why Smart TVs didn't come a lot sooner Ie. during the 80s. Even the birth of home video VHS/LD/Beta in the 80s couldn't push SDTV makers to adopt Composite inputs more heavily. :\ So in that sense SCART regions fared better for things like Teletext and later 90s multimedia consoles for AV fidelity.

[@darthwiizius]

In Europe we standardised RGB on TVs into the SCART connector, kind of odd they didn't just leave them on NA NTSC models given the inherent image upgrade. Even some US versions of consoles such as the Gamecube were artificially hamstrung by having the RGB connection removed internally so you'd be forced to mod to use it so you couldn't even hook a monitor up to it easily and cheaply.

[@loganjorgensen]

@@darthwiizius In hindsight it was a disaster in NA for all the screen AV standards. First couldn't get a cheap TV that wasn't RF only. Composite wasn't really a fully embraced standard when 16-bit games made it a standard. S-Video was great but sales focused on a new VCR/tape type and dropped RCA cables which only confused and made adoption cost more.🤨 Only to go back to RCA cables for the Component cable.🙄Then VGA never seemed to happen except for the Dreamcast.🤕 SCART has a large port but it certainly could have covered transitions more elegantly.

[@noahater5785]

After looking up what the heck the Laser 128 was, it’s basically a clone of the Apple II manufactured by VTech in 1986 according to Wikipedia, weird 🤔

[@noahater5785]

Context: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Laser_128

[@retrobitstv]

I forget that they were kind of obscure because my family had one when I was growing up. I wish we had held on to it :(

[@noahater5785]

@@retrobitstv I can somewhat relate, my dad told me he also owned an Apple II growing up

[@thatguyontheright1]

UL standardized polarized plugs in 1962.

[@ghostbombl8034]

Try,fly back transforrrmer bkurr pots in back of the tv.

[@pcbwaycompany9941]

wonderful sharing

[@carlwells9504]

Maybe test it with the sweet composite of your Amiga 1000 ☺️

[@emmettturner9452]

Wouldn’t matter if polarization were something new: They still put polarized plug warning in the documentation for many modern devices. It’s less common because we have more switching and DC power supplies than ever but certain devices still have this warning. Also, Japan generally still uses unpolarized plugs… which sucks because appliances can’t reliably provide a chassis ground.

[@emmettturner9452]

…because Japan also generally doesn’t have a dedicated ground pin.

[@GodzillaB210]

I am on the side of giving it a full restoration.

[@tetsujin_144]

5:25 - Huhuhuh... Unit...

[@bslprints9935]

I heard they play both kinds of music. Country AND western.