Optimus 3 tries out the SuperShafty Upper Link Riser!!!

[@BoomslangSuss]

Link risers are one of the most misunderstood things in crawling. First of all, they lower your anti-squat, whereas most people believe they raise it. Secondly, it makes no difference whatsoever if you raise or lower your AS because it only works in dynamic conditions and crawlers operate, primarily at slow speeds in a static condition. There’s little or no acceleration sufficient to activate any anti-squat. Furthermore, any amount of dig or overdrive completely overrides any anti-squat effect. Finally a video that demonstrates this. Nice work.

[@billderas3420]

Joe. Most improvement I have seen with the link riser on the Capra has been with the rear links extended about 1/2" longer (for a 12.8" wheelbase).

[@SuperShaftyRC]

This is a SuperShafty part. Not TGH.

[@gudmundursveinsson9060]

Honest, informative and overall good video once again. Keep at it 👍

[@blindj]

Thanks for all the work you do with these vids and sharing your experiences positive or negative.

[@bingsunbren]

Seems like a better understanding of exactly what this part is used for is needed.

[@devinhoepner2107]

Great video I do think you should try a shorter shock up front and keep the rear the same and see how she’ll do

[@mndronenut5109]

From what i seen of the without run and the with run it made it better the without tipped way more. Just a thought maybe shoot or edit video to have without and with right after so as to get a look back to back makes it easier to see the difference.

[@warwickeioncampbell4737]

Have you tried running less antisquat overall? Joe of scale freak rc ran a kit that raised the front of the links. less antisquat transfers weight to the front.

[@proraptor4146]

Time to put the proline crawler tries back on in predator imo. Also try raising the front of the upper rear link and get rid of that riser in the rear

[@josbarhorst]

I think you should try adjusting the links on the opposite side for the result you want.

[@BlackSmithRC]

Agreed my brother!

[@mojaverc1585]

Yeah less antisquat in the front would let it sink down

[@josbarhorst]

@@mojaverc1585 I think we were talking about the rear axle? Will have to try more with the front axle to confirm. It seems there's more gain with tuning the rear when crawling.

[@mojaverc1585]

@@josbarhorst Anti-squat is the resistant to suspension compression under torque. If you have a more than 100% anti-squat in the rear it will want to push the chassis up and the axle down under torque. By having less than 100 in the front, it would allow it to squat down on the climbs due to its low anti-squat and the rear’s anti-squat which is trying to lift the rear of the chassis up therefore pushing down on the front. This setup would not be great unless all you are doing is steep climbs all day long. It would cause the front to compress on downhills and want to tumble over forwards. And a variety of other negative effects for any other type of driving except for climbing.

[@josbarhorst]

@@mojaverc1585 yeah, that's the crux of it... gains in one type of driving usually mean less in others. That's where the tuning comes in, adapting to the situations. Really takes me back to racing on-road TC and M-chassis. Tune the suspension till you're happy or faster than the competition!

[@chriskryder2994]

Theroy isn't bad engineering. You'd have to have tremendous rear wheel speed to push the front end down. It's physically impossible on a crawler. Been preaching this for years

[@lowslowcrawlers1304]

I didn't like the way the truck handled at the top hole! I keep mine in the bottom hole. Was more looking for a triangular effect.

[@lukasgarage956]

Optimus 3 hitting the gym for a rematch with Superlite

[@JMHZ2401]

I feel like your wheel hop on the ramp has more to do with tire grip. When you increase the wheel speed the tires are spinning more creating more heat which can create more grip. Just not enough to dead hook.

[@troysawyers9781]

Doesn’t this riser create pro-squat and not anti-squat? Antisquat links looks like > this, front of truck being to the left. Pro-squat looks like < this.

[@ExocagedRC]

Well sounds like different terms for the same thing. Vertical separation of let’s say 1mm at chassis and 10mm at axle will have some lift at the back under throttle. If they are the same 10mm vertical separation at both ends the back will squat under throttle. There is way more to it than that such as link length and leverages but that’s a simple way to explain it. Now when you get into roll center, roll axis and all that, it gets a bit over my head but I can get things figured out.

[@sikolikhole]

Link geometry is tied to COG so the chassis set up change this. That's more than likely why you saw no improvement.

[@ExocagedRC]

yeah, the Capra guys love them

[@joang878]

You did a very LOW Anti Squat Value when you install that on the axle🤣. If you want RULR rear upper link riser or we say "HIGH ANTI SQUAT VALUE" adjust your rear upper mounting bracket on the CHASSIS NOT in the Axle.

[@kevinklein1806]

try lowering the shock collar a few turns in the rear.

[@jamesscroggins646]

I’m uneducated when it comes to this stuff, to many big words…lol…but what I seen is, the truck is unloading the front, and causing it to wheel hop. That’s what it looked like to me. I have seen people use the riser before, and it forced the front end down, but don’t know what all they did to achieve that effect. I’m no help, but that’s what I seen. Great video though 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻

[@JPVisions]

No one seems to know what difference the adjustment holes in the b front of the rear bottom links will do that are on the Capra (and others) skid plate. Will it also prevent squat? Instead of the rizer in the very rear? Thanks

[@JPVisions]

Ignore the b

[@OGRadGrow]

Nice 👍🏾

[@_scalers]

Try some shock tuning. Proper fluid weight will fix some of the issues your experiencing. I have the same spare time hobbies/capra setup and it climbs like a beast. Using trx4 shocks and no brass or overdrive

[@ryurc3033]

So after watching this several times I have come to a conclusion, where the links attach to the chassis may have more effective results. In drag racing they will adjust both the rear axle mounting point and on the chassis. I've seen many pictures with triangles and math to figure it out. But I think I'm going to make a plate with a bunch of holes and just move them all over the place. Really I'm just trying to eleminate torque twist in my antique scx10 (not even the ii but the og)

[@ExocagedRC]

I agree

[@RccarsUK]

Nice test👍

[@randallbatson611]

Have you seen portal pete pivot points from Pearson Bryant your reviews are great his blue ones would be unreal

[@danielkonrad1444]

What is this? I googled it and found nothing.

[@TEAMGARAGEHACK]

This is a @supeshafty product.

[@ryanxedgex24x25]

SuperShafty Link Riser* not tgh.

[@joeygodoy509]

Dang, did you just crawl out of bed haha.

[@urdonercjeremyburris7541]

If you watch your truck it squats when you use dig. Time to start to tune your shocks with thicker fluid instead of adding stupid parts

[@_scalers]

Exactly!! I just basically said the same thing

[@Manufalket]

Like 😀👍

[@bluemachine6238]

Tires on optimus 3 not that good. Try superlite and optimus 3 with same tires.

[@algar710]

Don’t think I’ll be purchasing them soon🥸

[@Ozzieseth]

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