Optoma HD141X DLP Video Projector Repair

Rather than split this into 2 vids, I left it as one long vid. Feel free to jump around to find what you need.
This Optoma HD141X was sent in by a viewer who was having some hassle with repairing it themselves. Rather than push on and possibly ruin something they were wise to stop and contact me. The PJ had two problems. The first was the color wheel connection had snapped. They are very delicate and I have broken plenty. I ended up replacing the board connector and re-stripping the flat cable to the wheel to get that up and running. The issue is one that was reasonably straightforward to repair, but only because I have seen it before. The spring that pushes against the light tunnel/integrator was not pushing back. I was able to press the spring 'tines' back into place and then re-adjusted the alignment screws. There was some dust showing up in the image but it turned out to be some specs that landed on the face of the DLP chip. I gave it a quick wipe with a chamois swab and it looked fine. The lamp isnt the best but as far as knocks offs go, its not awful. The lumen output is about 400~ less than a real Osram. A real bulb would be brighter but not significantly so.
All in all it worked out and now this fellow has a perfectly working projector again.
If you happen to need a lamp for one, here is a link to a lamp that uses the Osram bulb inside. www.purelandsu...
Thank you for watching!

[@vittorio02mrt]

Hi Frank, you are a live saver. After two hours of work i fixed my optoma hd142x with your video, I had the same problem in the light tunnel. It was frustrating because it was my fault because I caused the problem while trying to remove color wheel. Now I made experience and I'm going to easily replace the wheel. So, last thing, I was so afraid because I bought the projector with the money of a little work After school, so you saved a lot of work and money that I have sweaty, so I don't know how to thank you, even if I don't believe in miracles...today you was a miracle for me!

[@adamyatesadamyates5388]

Vittorio Martellino Ldl

[@adamyatesadamyates5388]

Vittorio Martellino gg

[@valueavenger6020]

💯👍🏽🔥🙏🏾 THANKS FRANK!!! I appreciate the time and effort it took to make this video and for your prompt responses in the comment section. I have never taken apart anything like this before and I thought I was going to have to buy a new projector. I have successfully repaired my projector and removed that dreaded shadowing because of this video. I tightened the spring the same way you did and the shadow is gone. The only thing I have to do now is blow it out because there are some visable particles on the projected image, same as in this video. I also bought a cheap lamp replacement but will buy the one you suggested in this video. Salute to you 👍🏽!!!

[@FixitFrank]

Hello! Good job and thank you so much for your kind words! This is exactly why I post these videos. I am so happy to hear this. Thank you again for letting me know. I hope this gives other people the confidence to try themselves.

[@manuelru5022461]

FixitFrank Do you have an address where I can send you my optoma ? I didn't have any light coming out, I bought a new lamp and nothing came out. Fan and everything else sounds like it should, but no light. Thank you Frank !

[@martinadcock7032]

Hi Frank Really great videos and I have an Optoma UHD550x and the screen is totally black with part of the Optoma word missing. I sent it to Optoma and they wanted to charge me a fortune for a new DMD chip even though it was just a couple of months outside warranty. Anyway after watching a number of your videos I have taken it apart and found the part number for the DMD chip and found a supplier in Holland that can get one for me at a reasonable price. Just waiting for it to be delivered and then will see if I can put it all back together. Made a few mistakes while taking it apart but your videos are really informative so thanks for doing them.

[@FixitFrank]

You are very welcome Martin! I am glad the videos were helpful. That is my entire goal. I want to give people whatever resources I can provide to help them repair themselves, or at the least, help them be educated on the problem so they are not ripped off by a repair center.

[@valentisivanovich9831]

Great video, looked like a good movie.Thanks Frank

[@FixitFrank]

Иван Спасибо! I am glad you enjoyed it!

[@MrEvensD]

Thanks a lot,,i was wondering why the one im using at church have been doing that,Ready to fix it now..Thanks

[@luisfranco5917]

Hi Frank. I have the same model projector. It seems my DLP chip also has dust on it. Did you show on video how to clean it or did I miss it? I can't recall seeing it. Do you have a video on how to do this? I really would like to try and clean my chip as it has a lot of dark spots/ dots showing up on screen. And if the chip needs replacing is it a hard job to complete and where can I order one? Any help would be highly appreciated. Thank you in advance.

[@martinodowd8187]

Frank Thank you so much - my projector had exactly this problem and your clear video helped me repair it. What a brilliant service you offer to both viewers and the planet!. Thanks a million. A couple of questions if I may. 1. How can I tell if a cheap bulb is really from the supplier it claims to be - e.g. it looks as though Osram bulbs are engraved not printed on the end - or is this a misconception? 2. Do I dare to clean the lense on the outside of the housing. It has clearly been damaged by exposure to the first bulb - will a strong solvent cause more harm than good?

[@FixitFrank]

No problem! Very Good questions. 1. I have seen real Osram lamps with both stamped and engraved. The larger issue I see from cheap suppliers is the quality of the lamp housing. Namely the IR/UV block lens on the front. They tend to use these lenses with a junky green coating that allows too much IR into the optics, slowly but thoroughly cooking the insides. I have yet to determine the best way to see if an Osram is counterfeit or not. One way I do know of is by comparing the serial number engraved into the side of hte arc tube with the serial number on the sticker. They should match. The other way is price. The average Osram lamp's "cost" is $25-40usd. They are then sold for $45+. If you paid less than say $30 US, I would be suspicious. 2. If the lens has a spot in the middle, its trashed. You need a new housing or at least a new lens. That lens is critical for the blocking of UV IR like I said in answer 1. If it's just some specs from the old lamp bursting, you can leave it alone. Less is more with these devices I have found. You know... if it's not broken, don't fix it. I usually recommend a full assembly if possible. They you have a new lens and connector. They are both parts that can wear out from the thermal cycling. That said, you need to do what you can with what you can find so I understand just replacing the lamp instead of the full assembly.

[@chinachrisjohnson]

How about explaining how to fix the speaker, Frank? Mine stopped working yesterday. It worked again for a few seconds this evening, then cut out again. Sound only can be heard with headphones plugged into the headphone socket.

[@FixitFrank]

Hard to say. I have never seen someone use that speaker or had one sent in for that. Usually these are used with an AVR or sound bar. In your case my initial guess would be the speaker might be going bad. They are not meant to be very loud and if you ran the volume high, it could burn it out. Or, the headphone jack is dirty and the 'switch' that enables/disables the speaker when you plug in isn't quite making contact. some contact cleaner in the headphone jack might help. You could try plugging and unplugging the headphone jack a few times to exercise the speaker switch to see if it helps. The fact that there is audio at all is a good sign.

[@getanadeinthere]

Hi Frank, I replaced the color wheel on my HD141x with one from Amazon. Now all the reds look orange. I've read that sometimes the color wheel needs to be re-indexed but I can't for the life of me figure out how to do that. Any suggestions? Thanks.

[@FixitFrank]

There are 2 options. First one is to move the little sticker (index mark) so its in the same place as the old mark. Other method is getting into the service menu and adjusting the Color wheel index. I think this is the method. Press Power-Up-Right-Up-Left-Menu buttons on the projector in that order. Press them within 1second of each other. You should get a menu that appears and the Index mark should be a number between 0-360. Adjust that number until the image looks correct.

[@MiraV-ns2uh]

Hello Frank, I bought an Optoma hd141x with a blown lamp, hoping that changing for new lamp would help. I order a replacement bulb alone from osram. After replacement, the projector worked fine for 10 minutes. Then I turned it off. From that time the projector did not boot and started showing the lamp error again (red indicator). It seemed to me that the area around the lamp was very hot after those 10 minutes. There was a sound like running fan during operation, so I expected everything is OK. The only thing that comes to my mind is that I accidentally switched the cables for the lamp. Could this be a reason for a lamp blow? Is the polarity essential? The "broken" lamp looks ok from the outside but shows disconnected contacts (infinite ohms) when measured by multimeter. The replacement lamp was a OSRAM P-VIP 190/0.8 E20.8. Would you have any hints? If the polarity is essential, is there a way to recognize the correct one by measuing something?

[@FixitFrank]

These are arc lamps. A continuity test should show an open circuit. If you had resistance that would be a bad thing. There is no filament in these. Just arc points and noble gasses. There isn't a positive and negative on these lamps(ushio NSH are DC). Osram and Philips are AC but there is a Hot and Return. You can swap them to see if its that, but I would expect it to ignite either way. Do your colors flicker at all right before it shuts down?

[@19mati67]

Great video Frank, like usual. I usually use a sandpaper to clean the ribbon cable. I put a hold on the Epson 3500. I'm working on my garage. I have picked up a refurb Epson 5040ub for myself.

[@FixitFrank]

Oh I like that. I'll give it a shot myself and see. I've used scalpels and heat before. I like the abrasives idea. Thanks!

[@lorsheckmolseh3345]

Great, instructive Video. A pleasure to watch. Thanks!

[@FixitFrank]

Why thank you for the kind words! I appreciate it

[@bmom5854]

Hi Frank, I have this model of projector and have been trying to troubleshoot it. It starts with a blue light and after pressing the power button the same light continues to blink blue. The fan and color wheel do not spin and the lamp will not ignite. Any ideas on what could be wrong?

[@FixitFrank]

It's hard to say exactly. It could be a problem with the mainboard, but there could be a power supply problem as well. I would make sure the cables are tight inside. If you are good with a volt meter, checking the low voltage power to the mainboard would be a good first step in checking the subsystems.

[@2010cabj]

Hello Frank, my hd141x projector red light will not come on. It’s the same one in the video. The outlet works., I unplugged it and held down the power button while plugging it in. I still don’t get any power, help

[@FixitFrank]

If you are not getting any LEDs are all, it sounds power supply related. Its hard to say exactly what but I would put your ear up close to the projector and slowly plug in the cord. You should hear like a little "tick" or "zip!" noise as the power supply charges up. If no noise, then power supply troubleshooting needs to happen. (same comment as the other post)

[@vprjadunov1]

i have got this projector hour ago , when i tested first the ray was straight . Brought it home , put on the top of another projector which is 0,5 meter under ceiling and also can throw straight ray . Now this optoma projector ray looks up to ceiling , so i have to tilt rear side up almost 45 degrees . Is it normal for this model ? thanky uo

[@FixitFrank]

Здравствуйте Влад, сбросил прошивки на заводские. Я думаю, что луч направлен вверх, потому что проектор думает, что он находится в режиме потолка, а не в режиме стола. Спасибо! (Прошу прощения за мой русский язык, я все еще рано учусь, и мне пришлось использовать перевод для некоторых слов)

[@amedamed7718]

Hallo Frank How are you, its me again 🙋🏻‍♂️. i have bought Optoma optoma hd151x but i found smthing weird, the fan just after i put the kabel in power start rund but so slow after i put on button run normaly after shutdown the same run slowly.is that normal ? please Frank healp me to find out what is the proplem . Thank you Frank

[@FixitFrank]

The fan will run at slower speed at first, but it should stop after a few minutes when you turn it off. It makes the projector more quiet. If it is slow while the lamp is on, then the fan may be bad. If you get no over heat warning, or temp error, I would not worry too much. Keep an eye on it. If you get a temperature error, then I would change the fan.

[@amedamed7718]

@@FixitFrank Hallo Frank thankyou so much for fast repaly. but what is happend this fan countuing run slowly after i shut the optoma down and never stoped even after 10 mun. this is what i dont under stand . Thank you Frank

[@FixitFrank]

Is it very warm in the room? I am not positive, but I think if the room is warm the fan will continue to spin slowly to keep the insides cool. I will check the manual to see if that is correct.

[@amedamed7718]

@@FixitFrank Thank you so much Frank . i think i have real proplem with my peojector i think the mother bord cant work Right any more for that i listed in ebay as Defect projector becuse i cant do any thnig more . Once again Thank you so much Frank for me Support me to resolve my proplems . wish all the best from Germany . Vielen Dank 😊🙋🏻‍♂️

[@JaxDagger]

ive had this projector for about 3 years now, but after a little while i get some flickering down in the bottom left of the screen, tried different lamp was fine for a few weeks then same thing, any idea what it would be? its like a really mild flicker usually but constant unless i change from eco back to bright again, and eco is almost unusable as it does the same thing more violently and sooner. also should i take it apart fully just to clean it anyway? i usually open it every few months and clean it out but not quite completely dismantled one yet thanks in advance

[@FixitFrank]

Long term eco mode is a problem. Honestly I wish they never offered it. I see more lamps failing early from ECO mode use than old lamps. ECO mode runs your lamp at a lower power which allows scale to build up on the arc points inside. Sometimes putting hte lamp back into normal mode for a few hours will clean off the scale but sometimes its just too engrained. I tell folks who use ECO to put it into standard mode for a day or 2 every few weeks to keep that from happening but you can't always get it totally clean. All that said, being that this is a 141, you might have a color wheel starting to act up. They can give you a flickering affect as well. If you can take a short video and link it to me, I can check it and see what it looks like to me. Then I can save you the wild goose chase.

[@pierrejoseph8065]

I have the same model. When I turn it on, it stays on for a few seconds, then shuts itself off. The power button keeps blinking red, and the bulb indicator stays a solid red. I changed the bulb with a new one, but the problem persists. I'm wondering if the fan isn't getting good airflow would cause that. Didn't want to take it apart yet. until I get a few opinions on it.

[@FixitFrank]

Id be very suspicious of the color wheel. If the fan was the issue it would give you a thermal error. Does the image flicker at all before it shuts down? Also, does the lamp assembly have a reddish/blue tint to its lens?

[@pierrejoseph8065]

@@FixitFrank Thanks for replying. When I hit the power button, it turns on for a few second, the blue screen comes on with the Optoma logo, and then shuts off where the power led flashes red and the bulb led stays on red. The assembly doesn't have any reddish/blue tint on the lens.

[@FixitFrank]

If you still have the old lamp assembly that worked, I would try moving the red/blue tint lens from the old housing to the new housing. That lens is an IR/UV filter. without it working correctly the color wheel will be flooded with IR light causing it to shut down. I would try that first at least.

[@alexfuji86]

Hi, Frank. I have one dead pixel on the top right corner, some black ones, and the picture flickers sometimes. I just need to know if I can fix it, or is this normal?

[@FixitFrank]

It is definitely not normal operation. It usually is caused by a failing DMD that has stuck mirrors. They are reasonably replaceable depending on the model. Is it the same model # as this unit? Also, when you say flickering, does the color flicker (purple/green) or is it flickering light to dark?

[@alexfuji86]

@@FixitFrank Yes, it's the same model. The image just flickers. Not like on or off sort of way. The lamp is still good. Is there a compatible DMD chip for this model?

[@joelockey5]

Hi Frank, I’ve spent ages crawling through sites trying to find a solution to my problem and your video on repairing the Optoma HD141X has by far been the most useful source of information I have found so far - so thank you very much! Unfortunately you don’t cover my exact issue so I was hoping you may be able to point me in the right direction? My HD141X projector was working fine other than the fan being a little noisy (it’s a few years old but only got 80 hours on the bulb so it’s hardly been used!) until I turned it on the other day and it now doesn’t find a source. It powers up fine, the fan runs, the lamp comes on, the Optoma logo shows up (as do all the menus and settings which are all crystal clear so I guess the bulk of it is working as it should) but no matter what HDMI lead I use or what source I try (PS3, PS4, Fire Tv stick, laptop) The projector just searches for a signal but doesn’t find one. I’ve tried plugging things into both HDMI ports, locking the source so it has ages to try and ‘see’ the source, Reset the sources video outputs Incase they were trying to play in a format/size that the projector didn’t like but it never finds them. Every now and again in the bottom right hand corner where the searching for source box is it will seemingly find a source and shows what resolution it will be in, but then no picture actually shows up on the screen. I felt like I’d tried everything I could think of so I opened it up to see if there was an obvious loose connection that might be the cause but everything seems to be as it should. Annoyingly there’s only the 2 HDMI inputs so I can’t try a VGA lead or anything else to see if they still work. I'm sorry to bother you, but if you have any idea what may be the cause and how I could fix it then I would be very grateful. I’ve spoken to Optoma, but because it is out of warranty (even though it is practically unused!) they want to charge a fortune to have a look at it, and if the parts to fix it end up being expensive I’d probably be better off buying a new one which I can’t really afford to do at the moment. Thank you for your time and if you need anymore information then please let me know. All the best, Joe

[@geoffbuffett]

Yep, at 3:16 of the video. I think that's the probelem with my Optoma as well. The bulb blew. I got a new one and installed it using one of your videos. This part was easy. While replacing it I noticed the color wheel had shattered as well. I got a new one and installed it, using another video of yours. This was not as easy. Started it up and was in the middle of testing it when it went off again. Open it up and the ribbon cable from the color wheel was out. The clamp that was suppose to hold it was snapped off. Tried attaching it with electrical tape. It starts up, tries "booting" 3 times (no light) before finally shutting down (blue power light goes off and is replaced by a solid red light and a blinking red light). You think it's the color wheel connection or somehting else? From reading elsewhere, the lights sound like a faulting bulb issue. But I just bought the bulb.

[@geoffbuffett]

By the way, thank you for the videos. Even though it's not working, with your knowledge and videos to share it, you make me more confident doing these type of things. Even if I don't get this one working. I know I have spare parts for a new one should I go that route. Thanks!

[@FixitFrank]

Hi Geoff! You are very close. There might need to be small piece of plastic glued to the back of the wire that came off, unless yours has a latching color wheel connector. What is your model #? I think you will get it working!

[@geoffbuffett]

@@FixitFrank I manage to get it to light up. But now a new problem. The color wheel is extremely loud. :(

[@monkeyb1820]

did you get this fixed? we are having same problem. I replaced the bulb (not sure if it needed replacing), I put in new colorwheel b/c last one shattered, but it just does the same trying to start, crapping out, then red lights.

[@monkeyb1820]

this is 15 minutes after my prior post, after staring at the video closely: it was my own stupid fault. When I went into replace broken colorwheel, the white ribbon didn't seem to be connected into anything (or maybe I didn't pay close attention), but when I installed the new one, I hadn't fastened in the white ribbon to the board. After doing that *now* it is basically working, but was buzzing a lot louder than it should. Not usable if it keeps buzzing like that (with new bulb, new colorwheel). I'm tightening things back up and will give it all another try.

[@AV-gs4mf]

Hi, what i musst do? My Beamer shows me LAMP flash red and POWER blink red too. I swap New lamp but doesn't help

[@FixitFrank]

Make sure the lamp cover is in place. That will cause this.

[@AV-gs4mf]

@@FixitFrank i try it was not lamb or colour wheel, the mainbord is Brocken

[@AV-gs4mf]

@@FixitFrank the cover was perfect in place

[@jinjerdioji]

Hi Frank, I'm finding it very difficult to track down the correct color wheel replacement for my HD151x. Any chance you could point me towards a specific item please? As always, many thanks.

[@FixitFrank]

Give my friends at Time projector a shout. [e-mail] They are a great source for parts. I get most of my parts from them if I cant find them locally.

[@valueavenger6020]

Hey Frank I have the shadow image on my Optoma 141x and I was attempting to follow your disassembly. The first piece that you removed was that part with the fan attached. After I unscrewed everything that piece does not want to come out for some reason. It feels like it may be glued in. I cannot remove the lamp fixture. Any suggestions?

[@FixitFrank]

Hello! Yes, the lamp needs to come out first. The lamp-well(I dont know the technical name, the part around the lamp) won't slide out unless the lamp is removed first. The lamp is actually screwed into the top of the color wheel frame. That sandwiches the part with the fan(I call it the lamp-well) between the lamp and color wheel frame. Make sure all the screws are out that hold the sides of the lamp-well to the case as well as the screws that hold it to the color wheel/optical assembly. It will be stiff but it will slide up along the sides of the color wheel frame. It kind of slots down on either side. Gently but solid movements. Don't pry it too much or pry on the screw tabs as tempting as it is. Maybe pry 1mm on either side of the color wheel frame until it moves. This plastic is strong but it's brittle. It won't take much flex without breaking. I would unscrew the lamp-power connector once you get the lamp out. It'll make un-threading the wire from the lamp-well easier. kzbin.info/www/bejne/g3vFmGponJiJo5o Check this link. It's when I am re-assembling. It will make more sense once you see how the pieces interact. Just take your time and don't force anything and you should be OK.

[@valueavenger6020]

FixitFrank Thanks for replying so fast and detailed. I have it out now but yes I am going slowly and carefully. I need to adjust the part where you tightened the spring mechanism. I changed the bulb and color wheel but mistakenly loosened one of the screws that keeps that light tunnel balance and now I have to get underneath it to adjust it. I have a dark shadow at the top of my projected image and i am betting that light tunnel needs to be readjusted. Thanks 🙏🏾 again for your quick and detailed response and for the link!

[@valueavenger6020]

Hey Frank, I have one more question. I have this projector completely disassembled just like in the video. I saw you bending the spring mechanism to adjust the light tunnel. I have taken out those screws to the part you were bending. My question is, how do I know if it is adjusted correctly before reassembling all of this? Thanks again.

[@FixitFrank]

You won't. Unless you left the top screws that push against the tunnel in place. Even so, you may have to tweak them a little. They push the tunnel against the spring where as the spring pushes back. That means loosening will let the tunnel tilt towards the screw and when tightened, it pushes back. Put on some sunglasses when you tweak the screws to make it easier with the lamp on. You will see the dark edges move around until you get the dark parts pushed off screen. Once it looks even, you are good. Its not really an exact adjustment. As long as you have uniformity with a blank screen you will be good.

[@valueavenger6020]

Yep 👍🏽 I have the exact same shadow as this video! I’m just glad I found your video! I know there’s hope for my projector! I’m going to continue to tweak this until that shadow is gone.

[@neoflix59]

Hi .. I was going to replace the colour wheel in mine, but when I look on eBay they all look like the 15 pound ones from China. Where do I look for good quality parts

[@FixitFrank]

Honestly they are all basically the same thing. A color wheel is really basic. However, you may want to try calling Optoma (TSC America) first. They are oddly helpful about selling parts, even if you are not a repair shop. Here is their contact info. [e-mail] 1-888-289-6786. Otherwise I have a contact in China that I use called Time Projector. [e-mail] Be sure to include a pic of the old wheel. They ship DHL and take Paypal. I use them a lot and always have a good experience.

[@neoflix59]

@@FixitFrank thank you so much for the reply. I appreciate the help .. I will definitely use one of these. You the man👍👍👍

[@nicksmith3846]

I'm getting 2 solid red lights when I try to power up my hd141x. Changed color wheel and bulb. It starts as light is blue and when I hit power. It tries to turn on and I get 2 solid red lights. Why?

[@nicksmith3846]

I hear a clicking sound like it's trying to turn on and then nothing just the 2 red lights solid. Not flashing

[@FixitFrank]

was the projector working OK before you swapped out the color wheel? Also make sure the color wheel wire is right side up when plugged in. I do that all the time...

[@takaroska]

@@FixitFrank Hi Frank. I have the same exact problem. I checked everything and nothing seems out of order. I have no idea what to do next? Please helpif you can. Thank you!

[@zakirmahroof6554]

I own a optoma hd141x projector, few days ago it was making a lound buzzing sound so replaced the colour wheel the noise stopped. I also replaced the bulb as it was in need of replacing. I have followed all instructions and put it back together properly. But I get no picture when turned on it goes from blue light on the top of projector to flashing red Can some one please help please desperate!!!

[@polito96]

Hi Frank, if I needed an Optoma hd141x repaired, where can I go? No real repair shops come up when I do a search in Chicago. It says the bulb is out. I bought a new one to replace it. I've replaced it but still shows it's the bulb. Any help or advise would be appreciated.

[@FixitFrank]

Hi Polo, what is it doing specifically? These are known for a color wheel problem, and it can manifest as a bulb issue. Does it try to start or does it just start flashing the LEDs?

[@polito96]

@@FixitFrank it tries to start. I had replaced the color wheel a year ago myself it worked with the dark shadow at the bottom of the screen. I got a temporary projector replacement and saw your video about fixing the shadow(I'm totally responsible for my own actions) and attempted to fix the problem. When I put the projector back together it cycled through the start up but the bulb did not come on...and the led for the bulb blinked. I installed a new bulb thinking that maybe I might have done something to burn the bulb out but with the ne bulb it still cycles through the start and the bulb led blinks.

[@polito96]

one more thing I remember. The ribbon on the color wheel seemed to slip out. Should I trim the ribbon?

[@FixitFrank]

@@polito96 I would not trim it. I would make sure it's seated all the way. If it slipped out, it will prevent the lamp from igniting. Make sure it has the little plastic backing piece that makes the connector thick enough to be held into the connector. Be sure you have the connector unlatched before you plug it in. I suspect its a connection problem personally. If you were comfortable shipping it, I would be glad to look at it too. My email is listed on the about page about halfway down.

[@polito96]

@@FixitFrank Thanks Frank, I will look at it when I get home. I will let you know the result after. I just started my shift.

[@Apey8]

Hi frank In have an Optoma uhd51a and my front lens element is damaged. Do yo know a source for replacements? Can you do a video on that projector if you have one?

[@FixitFrank]

UHD51A is going to be kind of hard to find parts for like that but I do have a source you can check with. [e-mail] Give them an email but be sure to include a picture of the lens. They will always ask for a picture.

[@cedrictailly]

Hi, really very nice and instructive video, I have a question : have you even try to mount a recent silent fan to replace the original one ?

[@FixitFrank]

I have in other models and found that the RPM sensor must be of the same spec or the projector wont read the fan properly. They need to move a specific amount of air or they will not keep the heat balanced. Unlike a PC the heat is so much that they rely on moving volumes of air rather than cooling a heatsink. I won't pretend to know all about thermal management but every time I have tried a replacement fan that wasn't the same model number, I had issues. Either the projector reports a problem or the fan does not move enough air. If I knew what the RPM sensor specs needed to be, then I would think a newer fan with the more quiet blade design would work much better. I know I see that swept blade design in newer projectors.

[@peeweerage4700]

Just a note to people unfamiliar with electronics, the video has an edit that makes it unclear which side up the ribbons go. I thought I saw the metal side up (away from the board), but my projector wouldn't power up with the ribbon that way from the lid-buttons/rf ribbon going to the main board. Also, I received a lamp error when they were metal side up for the color wheel connection to the board. So put the ribbons metal side down, so they face the board they're connected to.

[@FixitFrank]

I figured people would put it back how it came out, but if you are not paying attention, it's easy to mix it up. Thanks for posting this. I'm sure it will be helpful.

[@jinjerdioji]

Hi Frank, Nice video, thanks. It gave me enough info to find the override switch on an HD151x. The colorwheel on my projector isn't spinning :(. Any tips on removing it to see if it just needs a clean please? Thanks.

[@FixitFrank]

See my video on the Mitsubishi WD720. It should be a lot closer to the HD151x. IF the wheel isn't spinning, I would see if any metal had moved to jam it and I would measure the coils of the motor. They should be 4-8 ohms(maybe a little more or less depending on your meter and leads).

[@jinjerdioji]

@@FixitFrank Hi Frank, thanks for the response :). The color wheel moves freely if I move it by hand, but doesn't spin when powering on. I suppose, though, that I don't know what a correctly spinning wheel "feels" like. I have a multimeter, how do I test the ohms on the wheel please? Again, really appreciate your help!

[@Rphdantas13]

Hi Frank! This model (hd141x has one or two fans?

[@FixitFrank]

I recall this only had the one large fan by the lamp.

[@fonziefraire16]

Hi Frank I have the same exact projector as you do right there. My bulb exploded so I ordered a new one and when I went to install it it didn’t turn on the bulb itself but everything else worked. Any idea what it might be? I return the bulb in I’m getting a new one shipped to me.

[@FixitFrank]

I would be suspect of the blower fan(the squirrel cage looking fan) having some glass in it from the exploded bulb. The other possibility is the ballast took some damage when the bulb exploded. Make sure that blower fan is able to spin. You can kind of get your pinky finger in there or a cotton swap and see that the fan can rotate easily. IF not, give it a little push and see if any glass then falls out. I have seen this a few times. The glass will get jammed between the side of the casing and the fan blades and jam it enough. They are low torque so its easy to stall them. Do you get flashing LEDs after a little bit? Do they indicate lamp or temp issues? If you see a temp warning, its the jammed fan. If not, then it could be the ballast. I would see if the replacement bulb acts the same way.

[@fonziefraire16]

FixitFrank Ok thanks for the feedback. The fan spins fine and I’ve removed most of the glass. I can’t hear anymore glass from trying to shake it all out. Everything turns on with no red light indicators or blinking. I returned the bulb and maybe they just sent me a malfunction one. It could be the ballast.

[@BelguimLover]

Hi there! I also got an Optoma HD140X and when i start it up then right away at the side where it takes air, it really gets hot, more hotter then normal. I only have like used it 6 months ago, and it only has like 20 hours on it since i bought it. Could there be too much dust somewhere blocking the air vents? Or what could be happening? Help plz

[@FixitFrank]

@@BelguimLover Hi There! The outlet side will be pretty hot. 150-170f is not uncommon. The lamp itself runs around 400f(or more), so it will get very hot. Do you get a temperature warning at all?

[@BelguimLover]

@@FixitFrank this is the situation, i purchased it new and over the last 3 years i only use it a couple of times a year. Its stored in a closed cabin. When i used it the first couple of times when new well yeah its very noisy, and it got hot but okay, now i can feel the heat coming out of it when sitting real close to it and the underside is Hot as F**k ( sorry for the words) . But no warnings and everything runs fine. And i never dropped it on the floor or anything so it should not be broken internally.

[@PaulCalderon2]

Hello Frank I have a Optoma HD 8200 or 82. For some reason it's not turning on but it's getting power the stand by light is solid red and that's all I'm getting no light going on thru the lens nothing. I was hoping maybe you can take a look or give me some advice on how to go about fixing this.

[@FixitFrank]

Hi Paul, do you get any fan spinning up or is it just the LEDs and nothing else?

[@PaulCalderon2]

Just the led unfortunately. No fan. But When I took it off the mount it was working fine and then two days later I went to demo it for a friend and it did not turn on so I did work fine at one point.

[@FixitFrank]

@@PaulCalderon2 That is weird. I checked into the manual and its stuck in standby. Really the best step after this would be checking voltages and the like. However I would just go over a few simple things. I would re-seat the lamp door. Then make sure there isn't a stuck button on the panel. Maybe source or something got jammed and the power button isn't being registered? Then I would try a remote if you have one. If not, a multibrand would work. If none of that works, then its going to likely be something internal. Power supply, a wire, hard to say without looking at it honestly. Start with the easy and let me know how that pans out.

[@PaulCalderon2]

OK sounds good. if you want I can attempt to take the top off and send some pics of the internals and maybe you can spot something that's not normal to your trained eye. I just wanted to say Thanks for your time and help on this not to many ppl in my life that have any clue about things like this I can go to.

[@FixitFrank]

@@PaulCalderon2 You are very welcome! I am more than happy to help. Anything to keep more stuff out of the landfill. If you want to , Imgur is a good free image host. I'll see if anything jumps out at me. Also, if you want, you can email me([e-mail]) if you dont want to post them here or have a image share with personal info.

[@jean-philippegiordano386]

hello frank thank you for sharing your knowledge! I am a volunteer for an association. we donated an optoma hd143x. we replaced the lamp with an original Osram certified lamp. the problem with this device is that when we turn it on it starts up normally, then after a few minutes the image seems like blinking with rather abnormal colors. at this moment a noise is heard the device turns off. the lamp indicator lights solid red and the power indicator flashes. would you have a lead to tell me to find the origin of this failure? thank you very much for your answer and for your help. Best regards. I made a video for you, show if necessary what is happening

[@FixitFrank]

Does it sound like this sort of kzbin.info/www/bejne/inbRiaiKmr-df9k ? Going by your description I am pretty positive you have the classic color wheel failure this chassis is known for. I have a video on an HD26 with the same problem. There is a little black sticker on the color wheel that falls off and the noise you are hearing the is the color wheel changing speed erratically trying to lock in on the index mark. Also causes the flickering/flashing until the projector gives up and shuts down. Very repairable and not expensive. The wheels are roughly $40 from China(eBay), more so in the States. If you need a parts contact let me know, but I am almost 100% sure your issue is the color wheel. The only other cause would be if your osram certified lamp has the incorrect lens coating. Some vendors sell lamp assemblies with a bad IR/UV block coating which will cause the same thing as a bad color wheel. See this video for that information. kzbin.info/www/bejne/iYCmqWWVfrabaJY If you determine the lens is incorrect(has a green coating instead of the red/blue) you can use the lens off the old lamp assembly as long as its not damaged.

[@jean-philippegiordano386]

@@FixitFrank hi frank thanks for the quick response! indeed I do not know where to direct it to obtain this part. I am in France. can indicate me a supplier or a referance? Best regards

[@FixitFrank]

Sure thing. I use a company out of China called Time Electronics. [e-mail] is the email. I would recommend removing the old wheel first and including a picture in the email. They will ask for a picture anyway. They ship DHL and take Paypal so everyone is protected. I have used them for almost 3 years now. Very happy with their service.

[@ryangustafson2170]

Hello Frank my HD141X is not responding (no lights or sound from the fan) when I try to power it on. Do you do repairs?

[@FixitFrank]

HI Ryan, If you want to email me, I'd be happy to discuss the options. I am not in the repair "business" but I do enjoy repairing projectors. My email is listed on the about page .

[@ryangustafson2170]

@@FixitFrank Hey Frank just seeing this message as I don't check youtube much. I wasn't able to find your email

[@Nber1loufan]

I'm picking up a non-working HD141X this evening. Hoping it's something simple. If not, would you be interested in me sending the unit to you for repair? [e-mail]

[@19mati67]

You blow air inside the DMD chip area? The W1070 I have just repaired, I have a bunch of solid black mess in there. Though I have blown air in there.

[@FixitFrank]

Sometimes. It depends on the debris. I cleaned the components with the chamois sticks but this crud was large(in comparison to normal dust). To clean the face of the DMD would have meant total disassembly. There's a metal bit in there that acts as a light mask and it blocks the DMD face. I had thought it was a dim lamp but even with a slightly brighter Osram the spots stayed.

[@codyhillis6735]

Anybody have issues with this projector not finding hdmi source? I recently replaced the bulb and can not figure out what the problem could be. I have tried cycling the power on projector and input device, swapped hdmi cables, tried both hdmi ports without luck. Everything else about the projector is functioning normally as far as being able to open settings and make adjustments. Any solutions for this?

[@FixitFrank]

I have seen that but usually after a power surge or lightening strike nearby that cooks the HDMI chip. It worked before the lamp swap? Is the lamp an OEM or from Amazon? Not that it should matter for this issue but weirder things have happened. Did you try a factory reset? I'm assuming so. It might be a main board issue honestly. If you plug it into a computer, does it recognize the device?

[@codyhillis8055]

@@FixitFrank Thank you very much for the reply, it did work prior to the lamp switch, the lamp isn’t oem and was bought from Amazon. As far as I know there was no power surges that could have caused the issue. When I connect my laptop to the projector it still is not recognized as a source. That being said the laptop does infact recognize it is connected to the optima as an output device, so I know my hdmi cables are not the issue. Any way to check the main board itself?

[@FixitFrank]

In my experience the lamps on amazon are garbage. Especially the ones with names like "lutema" or "aurabeam". If your lens of the lamp is not showing a reddish/blue tint(its really obvious) then I would return it asap and get a better lamp. those other filter lenses they use are really bad for your projector. It will cook the optics as they let all the IR radiation in that ruins things. Usually the color wheel will shut down first. That said, I don't think that would cause your issue. I guess there is always a chance but it would be weird. checking the mainboard is not very easy. You'd have to use a scope and check the HDMI signals and that sort of thing.

[@jokejeleziaka7486]

Здравствуйте ! Подскажите пожалуйста как чистить фильтр на optoma hd141x ?..

[@FixitFrank]

Привет! Большинство HD142x не имеют фильтров. Если ваш hd142x оснащен фильтром, решение состоит в том, чтобы использовать пылесос/сжатый воздух для удаления пыли с фильтрующего элемента. Сначала отсоедините шнур питания. Во-вторых, снимите пластиковую крышку фильтра. Третий удалить фильтр. В-четвертых, очистите фильтр вакуумом или сжатым воздухом. Наконец, обратный процесс. Иногда это покажет сообщение об ошибке без фильтра. если у вас есть сообщение об ошибке, проверьте вентиляторы на наличие пыли или мусора. Спасибо!

[@jokejeleziaka7486]

@@FixitFrank Thank you very much for such a detailed and fast response! There is no removable filter anywhere on the body. Doesn't it need to be cleaned? I tried google translator ))

[@FixitFrank]

The internals may need cleaning but only if you have problems. A gentle vacuuming is perfectly acceptable in most situations. Я использую перевод для более чем половины моих слов. Я неплохо читаю по-русски и по-украински. Кириллический текст довольно аккуратный. Благодарю вас!

[@johnsiva2758]

Dear Frank, Thank you for the very useful and informative video. I'm John from India. Recently I bought an optoma HD143X in UK and return to India, but now I noticed the problem. TESTED WITH 100% WHITE TEST IMAGE The left side image of the screen is 25% approximately lesser bright than the right side. I can't go back to UK, but I believe that the problem is easy to resolve, because it is brand new. As I'm an electronic technician, if you give some guidance I can solve this issue myself. I'm not interested to claim the optoma warranty for this issue in India, even it is available. Thanks in advance.

[@FixitFrank]

Sure! Would you post a picture of the screen with a white image please?

[@johnsiva2758]

@@FixitFrank Please let me know how to post images here

[@FixitFrank]

@@johnsiva2758 I would use Imgur.com. You can save your pics there for free and share the link.

[@johnsiva2758]

@@FixitFrank Thank u.I will try.

[@johnsiva2758]

FixitFrank I’ve sent you the pictures, hope you’ve seen it.

[@Maestr0Liendre]

Hello Frank, I've got exactly the same problem with the light tunnel, but I´m not able to manage to put it straight, as I keep trying, but the picture is not right yet. Any advise how to aligne it without having to take it apart everytime? I've did already 3 or 4 times today I just move it from one corner to the other xD Thanks a lot for the videos it was really helpful to help me out found the problem.

[@FixitFrank]

Did you make sure the spring was pushing the light tunnel all the way to the other side? That seemed to be the trick for me. The spring they use must not be tempered and just a normal springy steel. By over bending the spring is what worked for me. Unfortunately the only way to get to the screws is to remove the top and all of that. You shouldn't have to remove the optic assembly after you bend the spring. I won't sugar coat it. This is an annoying fix. However if you make sure the screws are backed out enough to not be touching the tunnel(critical step), and then over bend the spring to push the tunnel away and down, then when you tighten the screws(tighten slowly to not crack the mirrors) you will be able to align it. Remember it is moving on kind of an angle. The 54:00 minute mark is where I re-bend the spring. I know you watched it, but maybe start there and follow those steps. Be sure you loosened the alignment screws fully. Also be sure the tunnel is not inverted/rotated out of position. That could cause you some severe hassle. That little tab on the light tunnel should be sticking up when the optic block is on the table. I hope this helps as this is the only way I know to align these. If I can help further please ask.

[@Maestr0Liendre]

@@FixitFrank I manage to move everything, then I turn it on to check, everything worked fine but wasn't aligned yet, then I open the projector and now the lamp won't go on for some reason :( is driving me mad XD

[@Maestr0Liendre]

That's it finally! I managed to fix everything! Thank you so much for the video and for the reply!! You saved me from spend so much money as I'd never gone into trying to fix it without your video.

[@FixitFrank]

@@Maestr0Liendre You are very welcome! I am always happy when I read comments like this. Thank you for letting me know!

[@Synthematix]

Mate can you remember what the service menu of the optoma 131xe is ? ive forgot lol, cheers.

[@Synthematix]

@Donn Smolik Its spyware

[@serter931]

Большое Спасибо. Очень информативно.

[@FixitFrank]

Пожалуйста! Не за что. Спасибо за просмотр моих видео!

[@andrechestnut4948]

Color wheel replacement for Optoma 60 uhh 4K projector

[@AV-gs4mf]

Please help me

[@vittorio02mrt]

Hi frank, Your repairs are amazing! I'm just a little guy and I did something wrong repairing the color wheel. I bought it with my afternoon little work so I'm so afraid, can I ask you your email if you can help me with just an advice please? I just removed on of the two light tunnel alignment screw and I have now a shadow in the top left corner. I don't know how to align it, if you can help me It would be a miracle. Thank you!

[@vittorio02mrt]

You can see the screw at 57:34, it's at the bottom on the round tunnel

[@vittorio02mrt]

Tried to install the screw but it didn't solve it

[@FixitFrank]

It's probably the same issue as I had here. The spring clip underneath isn't pushing back on the tunnel when you loosen the screw. If you remove the spring clip and rebend it, back out the adjustment screws until they are not pushing on the tunnel. Then once you've reassembled the optics and are ready to align, slowly tighten each screw (use a white screen test signal) and watch the edges. You will be able to shift the tunnel back into place pretty easily once the spring clip underneath is bent back to shape. If you get stuck, feel free to email me.

[@kut1232]

можно ли заменить лампу на более мощную, например такую - aliexpress.ru/item/1005004107816134.html?spm=a2g2w.detail.pers_rcmd.14.58592b18xEPeTH&_evo_buckets=165609,165598,188873,194275,299288&sku_id=12000028058589923&gps-id=pcDetailBottomMoreOtherSeller&scm=1007.34525.288670.0&scm_id=1007.34525.288670.0&scm-url=1007.34525.288670.0&pvid=dc7dcf93-c97b-43a3-b620-df27f7eeed94&_t=gps-id:pcDetailBottomMoreOtherSeller,scm-url:1007.34525.288670.0,pvid:dc7dcf93-c97b-43a3-b620-df27f7eeed94,tpp_buckets:24525%230%23288670%230_21387%230%23233228%233_21387%239507%23434556%231&ru_algo_pv_id=dc7dcf93-c97b-43a3-b620-df27f7eeed94&scenario=pcDetailBottomMoreOtherSeller&tpp_rcmd_bucket_id=288670&traffic_source=recommendation

[@FixitFrank]

Это не может. Балласт определяет мощность лампы. Лампа мощностью 210 Вт получает только 210 Вт от балласта. Лампа мощностью 240 Вт по-прежнему будет получать только 210 Вт. В проекторах используется технология дуговой лампы. Если бы в проекторах использовалась технология накаливания, лампы с более высокой мощностью работали бы. Для увеличения мощности дуговых ламп балласт должен быть большей мощности. Это приводит к необходимости обновления сетевого питания. В конце концов, стоимость будет намного больше по сравнению с покупкой более мощного проектора. Очень хороший вопрос!

[@kut1232]

@@FixitFrank спасибо за ответ! я правильно понял что поставить лампу 240 Вт на проектор Optoma HD141X DLP можно? но она всё равно будет светить как лампа 210 Вт? или она не подойдёт по креплению? или испортит проектор? просто оригинальная лампа 190 Вт а говорят что китайские лампы светят на много слабее! что посоветуете? ответьте пожалуйста🙏🙏🙏

[@kut1232]

ответьте пожалуйста.