▼ Ortur Master 2 METAL engraving with mustard and the NEW Air Assist

[@3dPrintCreator]

Ortur Master (all types) gbe.st/302mPvM - Ortur Master II (all types) gbe.st/302mPvP NeJe Master 2 (all types) gbe.st/302oXqW - Ortur Y axis roller gbe.st/302oXqZ WATCH NEXT: FULL TUTORIAL ON LASERENGRAVING kzbin.info/www/bejne/oHazZpdnnpWBhas

[@theDesignClass]

Whoa! Did you say there is a 40w machine??? Where can I get one and what is the laser output value?

[@krisknowlton5935]

I see a few comments on here by people who have a whole lot of "quit" in them. Trial and error is a great teacher. I am an older man now and if I gave up every time I had a setback I would never have accomplished anything in my life. Yes, it is frustrating to fail. But when you succeed, the rewards are great. This is a great video. Everyone who watches it should learn something.

[@3dPrintCreator]

Thanks for this comment. It feels really good to read something like this among the other responses this video evokes.

[@klave8511]

Kris Knowlton : A quotation, from 1932, “The Muncie evening press”, was modified for engineering, as I remember it Good engineering is based on experience. Good experience is based on mistakes.

[@krisknowlton5935]

@@klave8511 This week I was trying to mark on some glass jars like the ones used for canning. It took me probably ten tries before I got it right but in the end I got some good results. I haven't seen anyone else try to do this so I didn't have anything to go on. I also found out during my trial and error that you can etch clear glass as well as make a black mark on it. And this with an Ortur Laser Master 2 (15w) machine! I guess I ought to make a video.

[@boarder2k7]

I just confirmed that this works on a CO2 laser as well. This is a hilarious and wonderful way to expand the capabilities of your laser!

[@marlonglodo1930]

Holy Molly sir success.. French mustard did it.. Thank you big brother... Keep safe..

[@IDR_atomy_journey]

Thank you so much.... It really works with my 7 watts Neje Master 1... I used this settings: 100% laser power and 100ms speed.... And I run it twice so it marked clearly... The mustard is use is French's Classic Yellow Mustard....

[@cocoricov]

That mustard trick made me subscribe! 😂

[@3dPrintCreator]

Thank you.

[@josephramsell]

Same here have you tried engraving blued metal

[@nosurname9652]

Sometimes, when you want to engrave metal deep enough, it's easier to use metal pickling method. Paint metal with thin layer of black (dark) nail polish (or just stick a sticker on it if picture is simple enough), burn the picture out (cut out contours if used sticker and take it out), and use chemical or electrolysis method of metal pickling.

[@3dPrintCreator]

A complete different method, but yes. Much easier and more reliable.

[@tracisusong6991]

I want to engrave on stainless charms, will this method work with a 15w laser

[@nosurname9652]

@@tracisusong6991 there is no difference which metal to engrave with electrolysis method at all. Main idea for laser in this case is to cut through nail polish or sticker, and 15w is more than needed for this work.

[@dherrendoerfer]

Mustard ? Who would have thought that ? I've been investigating acidic solutions to try a few metal based experiments with my laser. The reason that you are getting so different results with your lasers may be the power level, and the fact that blue (purple) lasers are pumped IR lasers, so your laser may also be emitting in IR spectrum, and the steel will just love to soak up that wavelength.

[@3dPrintCreator]

Hi Dirk, What an honor that you leave a message on my KZbin video. I've been following your channel for ages and I learn a lot from you. It is indeed possible that the infrared part of the spectrum, which is little but certainly represented, is responsible for the engraving of the steel, but I am also sure that the acid in the mustard plays a role, because with one brand of mustard it is very quick and easy, with the other brand I have to use the laser much more intensively over the steel.

[@dherrendoerfer]

@@3dPrintCreator Yeah, Mustard is some powerful stuff, I think that there must be some powerful oxidiser at work too. My 80W CO2 laser won't scratch steel or copper, but once it's been in touch with the soot of burning wood cuttings, it does it somehow. I really like your channel - loads of helpful content and great explanations !

[@PourMeAnother]

Excellent video. I hope to be able to do this one day...I am beginning to think that I got ripped off. I have been waiting many weeks for my laser from Geatbest...I think it is never going to arrive!!

[@3dPrintCreator]

Can you sent me your shipping details in a private message like email? I will ask my contact I have at Gearbest to see what happens with your order. I know the company to good to believe they ripped you, but communicating with them sometimes is a bit more difficult. Once you have contact though, they are very helpful.

[@PourMeAnother]

@@3dPrintCreator I have contacted them and the automated reaponse is do I want to wait or exchange, it is very frustrating. However, I will send you my info. Thank you!! What email should I send it to?

[@PourMeAnother]

I found your email, will send the sipping info soon. Thank you for your assistance!

[@3dPrintCreator]

I have sent you a reply via email

[@PourMeAnother]

@@3dPrintCreator Thank you. I saw it and replied!! Thank you so much!!

[@johngurney7087]

Thanks for your great video. I'm just doing some ground work before purchasing a laser. I learnt from many videos that you should not use FULL power as it drastically shortens the life of the Laser unit

[@3dPrintCreator]

You are quite right that using a Diode laser at maximum power can significantly shorten the age of the laser. However, some things are not possible without using full power on these lasers, and for that reason you sometimes cannot ignore them.

[@johngurney7087]

@@3dPrintCreator Thanks for your reply and now I understand. Stay safe from Australia.

[@paulreeder5241]

I also forgot to mention that lasers react chemically with the oil and chemicals already in the metal. They don't actually cut into the metal. The chemical reaction is just on the surface of the metal.

[@YorielGonzalez]

the mustard has seleniun and it is used to focus laser, maybe is the rason that it works because is fotovoltaic non metal conductor .. is used in laser printers for this property.. and glicerina in dawn soap that as i read in others forums finding glass engraving tricks using cold galvanized spray (zinc content increase the heat over the glass, i buy one today in panama city and isnt cheap) other way about metal engraving that i want hear your opinion is laser fiber marker spray? like cermark, you try with that? i cant engrave satisfactory the mugs and termos.. let me know .. nice your videos for my first month learning with my ortur laser master 2... i make some leather custom hat patches for sale and engraving bambo and wood tables for fathers day ... thanks for sharing your experiences... and thanks for share your air assist kit, i'll send to print it tomorrow morning... 50% than buy on internet lol

[@3dPrintCreator]

It is indeed the selenium that I responsible, but not only that. The green color of the mustard also helps because it catches a lot of the 450nm wavelength that comes from the laser, heating up the material a lot. This is also why Cermark does not work. It is made to react very well on the frequency of CO2 lasers, but it is almost transparent for the 450nm wavelength of our diode lasers. Oh and mind you, if you bought the Laser Master 2 with fixed focus lens and slide to move the laser up and down, you have the new version and my air assist won't fit. If you have the version with the focus able lens, then you have the older version and the air assist will fit. Have a good time with your laser and please show me one of the patches you make by sending a photograph to [e-mail], I am very curious about working on leather. I have not tried that out yet.

[@rockman49er]

@@3dPrintCreator it works but it smells so bad i mean really bad

[@3dPrintCreator]

Yes... and even that is an understatement.

[@ViggoHinrichsen]

Good video! Thanks! :D I am also hearing "Ortur Mustard 2" all the time :D

[@sinusvag]

We used to use mustard to fake the UV-light-sensitive dyes used on wrist stamps given when entering high-school dances. Just draw the approximate "stamp" on your wrist with mustard and present yourself to the bouncer at the door. Apparently the mustard contains UV to visible light substances, like whiteners in modern detergents. Perhaps a test using detergents would be interesting (use detergent for white goods).

[@3dPrintCreator]

Yes, that's indeed an interesting idea.

[@citterly]

I'm curious if it's actually engraved or if the mustard is just burned on the surface. So what we are seeing is actually that the metal is removed and the lettering is below the original surface? Or are we looking at charred mustard sitting on top of the metal?

[@3dPrintCreator]

Well, I am not able to clean it off, but I just learned from my comment section that this is called marking and not engraving. Yet, there is a chemical process that is caused by the mustard, that makes it nice and black.

[@harviecz]

@@3dPrintCreator is that embedded in the material or just on the surface? (eg. so it can't be scraped with razor like you would scrape the paint)

[@filippodonadoni422]

Thank you very much for the tip about SINGLE LINE FONTS SHX is helps me to clear a trouble with my Ortur Laser to write text clearely

[@3dPrintCreator]

You're welcome.

[@GiGasDK]

Hi Brian and all followers. First thanks for that great job you are doing for all of us. New to all this stuff is amazing to learn from other Makers. That French Mustad trick is on my to do list. I tried out the AirAssist V3 after seeing it in your earlier video and got the issue whit lack of space to reach home sensors, but still like the idea of it - Then I created a V4 having the tightener on same side as the air tube and the issue are solved. My firs test tells me that the distance from lens to object are very important here. The Air will flow way to high from laser focal point if the object are flat like 3-5 mm. To me it looks like the air blows approximately 20 mm higher than surface. Question: As I said, I'm new to this engraving and correct me if I'm wrong - We need a flexible part to hold the air nosle right ? Guessing that the Air Assist will work best if we can concentrate the blow right in the laser focal point ? Please to not se my post as a complain or any bad waves - Just try to give a hand to improve your solution. Regards Peter Sorry English My Native :-)

[@3dPrintCreator]

Hi Peter, Thanks for your compliment. You are absolutely right about the things wrong with the current air assist. The best place to have the laser is 33mm above the object you are engraving (if we use the standard lens, provided with the machine) Therefore, you can use a fixed air assist as long as the complete unit (laser and air assist) can move in the Z direction. That is what I am working on at this moment. I hoped to have it finished this weekend, but all kinds of obligations made it impossible for me to finish it at this moment. Still working on it though.

[@rickmccaskill7888]

This is great. Love it. I will try this out today. Thanks for sharing.

[@laserwizard1982]

I really enjoy your videos! I've been watching some here and there for months, you do an extremely good job to explain and teach. I hope my videos can be as informative as yours one day!

[@3dPrintCreator]

Thanks for that compliment. Make a lot of videos and don't give up easily. You will see progression in your video's very rapidly. Sometimes I watch my older video's and then it get's very clear to me that at start, I was really bad at making videos... for now I would rate myself 4 out of 10.... Lot's of room to improve. :-)

[@pablomoreno7777]

Its really a good trick! Do you think that could be work similar into aluminum?

[@3dPrintCreator]

Thanks. No, it doesn't work with aluminum because the aluminum heats up much quicker, It spreads the heat way to fast to etch this way.

[@UYC.]

Cool i use blk mate paint i will try mustard 👍

[@laserbutikextra]

Thank you for your Video . Can you show use the Air Machine . I have ORTUR 2W . But I Need som Help withe it, I am still learning :)

[@3dPrintCreator]

I use a simple aquarium air pump, they can be found online very cheap. Mine is 150 liters of air per hour.

[@umarhaque516]

Unbelievable! French Mustard!

[@heveslaserengravingchemica5476]

Engraving with mustard is a good approach to improving the process, but we have several inks specifically designed for this purpose.

[@3dPrintCreator]

That sounds very nice. Is there by any chance a possibility to review one of the inks?

[@beckerg04]

When doing fill letters click individual objects to speed up

[@3dPrintCreator]

Thanks, that speeds it up quite a bit.

[@Arianovan]

If I had to make a semi educated guess I'd say that this is less actually using the laser to engrave and more exciting the acid in the mustard with heat of the laser to Precisely chemically etch the metal. With the thickness/opacity of the mustard all serving to trap and concentrate the energy from the laser. I may be way off in this guess but i feel like it bears out. I'd be interested to see it tried with different hot sauces to see if the concept holds up.

[@3dPrintCreator]

I am pretty sure you are correct about this. I tried sauces ranging from mayonaise to hot chili sauce, but non of them gave a satisfying result. Not even every mustard does the trick right, as I explain in a later video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/nna0eGmErbWem5o

[@robertrhodes741]

What video software or technique are you using to out your torso over your screen record in real tome? I love this creativity!

[@3dPrintCreator]

I use the Black Magic Design Atem Mini for that.

[@ctphilippi]

Wow, dat is leuk! Ik had al dure producten gezien om zoiets te doen, maar gewoon met mosterd is super! En nu ook met je video op hackaday, nice!

[@3dPrintCreator]

Lol, tot dit berichtje had ik nog nooit van Hackaday gehoord, maar wat leuk :-)

[@choschiba]

What a crazy idea to use mustard. How did you come up with that? Great video!

[@3dPrintCreator]

It was mentioned to me by someone at the local maker space and at first I didn't believe it. ;-)

[@arduino.spullen3916]

Hallo Brian, Het was een zeer interessant filmpje over hoe je in een Ikea schaar een naam kan graveren met een 15W LED laser module. Ik heb een CO2 laser een paar jaar geleden gekocht om te kijken of ik daar ook PCB printjes kon frezen. Dat is me echter nooit gelukt omdat ik het zeer dunne laagje koper niet weg kon lazeren. Heb jij enig idee of je ,mostart, oplossing ook zou kunnen werken om de buitenwijken van je ware en pads kan weg lazeren en evt het onnodige koper 35umm dik kan weg lazeren, het geen het solderen weer vergemakkelijkt. Overigens is je video zeer nuttig geweest om de oude K40 weer een te voorschrijf te halen. Dank Bas

[@3dPrintCreator]

Hallo Bas, Koper is veel moeilijker dan RVS om te graveren, of zelfs weg te laseren. Dit komt door de enorm goede hitte geleiding van koper, waardoor de warmte die de laser heel lokaal zou moeten genereren, juist bij koper, heel erg word verspreid. Ik weet dat het met een diode laser niet lukt om koper weg te graveren, maar je zou het kunnen proberen met koper pasta die je heel dun over het koper smeert. De koper pasta word dan door de laser weggebrand, maar het neemt tegelijkertijd ook heel goed de hitte weg van de print waardoor de concentratie veel sterker blijft. Ik heb het nog nooit geprobeerd, maar ik kan me voorstellen dat dit beter lukt dan met mosterd.

[@marclebail9948]

So wonderful technologie , cocorico 😁

[@erwingoethals9908]

I tried this with my kemoon master 2 /2s 7W laser but it doesn't work, but with another type of mustard or should it be French mustard

[@3dPrintCreator]

As mentioned in the video after this specific video, I tried many types of mustard, and some work, some others don't. It has nothing to do with being French, but most types didn't work well, and some did work perfectly.

[@gregoryconnors7370]

Had to go back seven times to watch the Section View being cut. Why did you design the air passage the way you did? Noise suppression or other reason? Thanks for the video!

[@3dPrintCreator]

The idea at that time was to even out the airflow from the pump. Because the pumps used in aquariums are pulse pumps, I hoped to even out the airflow with these strange shapes on the inside. It was a bad idea for multiple reasons. It didn't work the way I hoped and also the printed plastic is not airtight, and leaks from all sides. The current version (that I just released at 31-12-2020) has the silicone tube all the way to the brass nozzle, without strange shapes and obstacles.

[@gregoryconnors7370]

@@3dPrintCreator I've been evaluating the aquarium pumps myself, knowing that they pulse and wondering if one would work. It would be a nice cheap route, and possibly integrating some type of in-line accumulator would help.

[@3dPrintCreator]

@@gregoryconnors7370 I made an accumulator with two 2 liter bottles and another one with a bottle with a balloon inside. They gave me a perfect smooth airflow, but it wasn't any better than using the aquarium pump directly while it took a lot of space. I now work with a silicone hose that is 120cm long and has a 4mm inside diameter. The nozzle at the end has an opening of 1mm and makes a little compression in the silicone hose. The airflow is pretty smooth and it works perfectly.

[@gregoryconnors7370]

@@3dPrintCreator LOL Maybe I should binge-watch your videos to see what you HAVEN'T tried? I'm currently working on a vacuum system in hopes of not needing the air at all, but it's difficult to get good flow without static pressure. Go ahead... you already tried too?

[@HCTPIRES]

Excellent information for those who doesn't know so much in lightburn like me. How did you do the frame command with the laser in focus mode? Thanks.

[@3dPrintCreator]

hold down the shift key while clicking on the frame command with the mouse.

[@HCTPIRES]

@@3dPrintCreator Manny thanks for the tip. Regards.

[@anibalismo]

Awesome video! it was really helpful! happy 2021!!

[@3dPrintCreator]

Thanks for the compliment. Have a Great 2021

[@Kryaak]

What about mustard lubrification ? -12.00 :)

[@TFengineer]

Great video! Have you shared the air chamber file yet?

[@3dPrintCreator]

No air chamber, but I did share the new air assist.

[@paulreeder5241]

@@3dPrintCreator Air assist in laser diode etching is redundant at best. You only need the air assist on CO2 lasers.

[@KaravanlaYollarda]

which compressor do you use? it's pretty quiet I have a NEJE Msster 2 20W almost the same product. Can you ever make a video about your laser power and speeds on different materials?

[@3dPrintCreator]

In fact, I don't have a compressor but an air pump. It's an aquarium air pump, ment to work 24/7 in a living room, so very quiet. The pump can move 150 liters of air per hour, more then enough for this project. A video about laser power and speed would never work as there are to many variables that make it very different for every situation, but I will make a video explaining how to get the best results with your personal setup.

[@MrcoAu11]

What kind of protective glasses do you wear?

[@3dPrintCreator]

The provided glasses that come with the laser. They are more than good enough for diode laser engravers as the light from the machine can impossibly hit an eye in focus and therefore, the most simple type of protective glasses will be good enough.

[@pulidoggy]

Hello Brian, that's interesting! I'm wondering which are the peculiar physical/chemical properties of mustard such to enable metal etching... I presume that, once explained, it should be possible to pick out a more specific substance, saving mustard for frankfurters 😉 And by the way, how did you manage to find out that precisely mustard was the trick? Just a wild guess, or else did you went through the whole process by trying first ketchup, mayo, jam, butter and so on? 😁

[@pulidoggy]

On second thought, could it be that stainless steel is too shiny and thus reflecting back most of the laser radiation? In this case mustard could be acting as a laser absorbing means... Have you tried by simply blackening the steel surface first with a permanent marker or such?

[@3dPrintCreator]

Hi... I tried al kinds of blackening the stainless steel, but all without any succes. The mustard trick seems to work because of acids that become very aggressive when they are heated, therefore etching the material instead of really engraving it. I am not very good in chemistry, but this was how the people at a makerspace explained it to me. It took me very long to succeed with it, and strangely enough, it works on my Master II laser very quickly, while on my smaller Master Laser, I need 10 passes and less speed for it to work. Also, The shown mustard works really well, while another jar of mustard only gives me a very light result, without the deep black contrast.

[@bradbrown2199]

Interesting. How but a vacuum ?

[@3dPrintCreator]

Doesn't work. You need to blow the debris away from the groove you create with the laser. Smoke could be sucked up, but the ashes will not move at all.

[@johnwaynewilliamson]

where do you find the 30 & 40 watt laser upgrades? great video btw

[@3dPrintCreator]

NeJe sells then on Banggood at the moment, But I am pretty sure they will be sold everywhere as soon as the popularity grows.

[@insimivalley]

so will either or both the nene 30 and 40w simply replace the orator 15 or 20w head? without any additional items to replace? just attach it to the pate, plug it into the same wire and it is done? THANK YOU

[@ashleydavis2431]

Awesome video

[@w3k11]

Hi, can we expect 3D model solution for air assist on Neje Master 2 machines?

[@3dPrintCreator]

Hi, sorry but no. I don't have that machine and I am not going to buy it either. All the Ortur machines I have, have been given to me for review purposes, and then I make things like the air assist (next one being released this weekend). As for Neje, I ones BOUGHT the NeJe Master and made some reviews about it. Then I contacted Neje if they would like to have more reviews about their products, and they even told me they don't like the attention they get on the Internet from people, like reviewers. It was a bit surprising for me to hear that, as a lot of the NeJe's are being sold via the links I provided, but that was their official response. I stopped reviewing their lasers after that.

[@w3k11]

@@3dPrintCreator Thank you for the detailed and honest answer.

[@K40Keller]

I like to know if this method would also work with a CO² Laser.

[@3dPrintCreator]

Me too, but as I don't have one, I can't tell. Maybe one of my viewers with a CO2 laser can test this and comment on it.

[@muskokamike127]

You don't need mustard with a CO2 laser, it's powerful enough to engrave all on its own. Of course, that depends on the wattage of the CO2 laser. They come anywhere from 30w to 150w typically.

[@K40Keller]

@@muskokamike127 No. That is not right. A Co² Laser CANT engrave any Metal wirhout a helping chemical. And thats not engraving, its more burn paint into Metal.

[@muskokamike127]

@@K40Keller sorry, should have spec'd "coated metals" my apologies

[@K40Keller]

@@muskokamike127 Ah, ok.

[@TheNastydanny]

Nice 😁 Does it work on aluminum?

[@3dPrintCreator]

Hi Daniel, So far I have achieved the best result with stainless steel, but I have also achieved this with normal iron. I have not yet achieved good results with aluminum and other metals that come from an alloy of several materials. I think aluminum and copper are difficult anyway, because these metals conduct heat very well.

[@tptsparkle9516]

Can this be used on sterling or fine silver?

[@3dPrintCreator]

I am not sure because I never tested it, yet I don't believe that would work. Silver is much to heat conductive to be able to laser it with a low power laser. It would take to much time to heat it up (due to reflection) and therefore the heat will be dissipated throughout the material.

[@angst_]

Do you think I can do it with a co2 laser? I've done a little playing with some dry moly, but I'm hesitant because I've heard that reflections can bounce back into the laser tube and cause damage.

[@3dPrintCreator]

I heard in de comments at this video, a CO2 laser can also do this. Yet, I think, the dangers with reflections are even worst with a CO2 laser, as not only does it reflect exactly the same as a diode laser, you also can't see the light from the CO2 lasers. Making it even more dangerous.

[@angst_]

@@3dPrintCreator My laser is enclosed and I have safetly glasses. I'm more concerned for my laser's safety than my own! Copper is very good at reflecting infrared light. I've read at least one story of the laser bouncing off the material and going back to overheat the output lens of the glass tube and overheating it. I'm not sure if that's due to residue that was on the lens that absorbed the energy, or if it's because lasers aren't designed to have the beam bounce straight back into them? Either way it sounds like a recipe for overheating.

[@3dPrintCreator]

To be honest, it wouldn't really concern me as long as we are talking about a diode laser. At double the travel distance of the light, in optimum circumstances, the light would be reflected at the whole surface area of the lens, but that is only true in theory, as in real life, there is power dissipation in the copper and also the light will be spread wider as the surface of copper is no perfect mirror. Diode lasers only have a limited focus distance, and only within a given range (depending on the lens used), the light is condensed enough to have high energy. Also, the used method in this video uses a material (mustard) that stops the reflection of the metal, therefore, there will be no high power reflection going back to the lens.

[@joaocadete8244]

What software are you using? THANK YOU

[@3dPrintCreator]

I use Lightburn, but any software that can sent GRBL commands will do, like Lightscribe or Lasermaster. They will all work.

[@belbir49]

You convinced me to buy the ortus 2 20w model yesrerday. A great video and tutorial. Can u let me knoe how i can get hold of the air assist . I dont have any 3d printers. Can i get that from any of your website . Will be very grateful.

[@3dPrintCreator]

When the air assist file is released, you can download it and sent it to a local makerspace or a print service, like 3d hubs. I think I will have to new and tested file available next weekend.

[@muskokamike127]

Just be advised that I am 99% positive that it isn't actually a 20w laser. AFAIK the most powerful diode laser you can obtain is 7w. Many companies rate the power consumption as opposed to the laser power.

[@3dPrintCreator]

100% true. The optical output is about 5.5 Watt. Yet, this has to do with the PWM duty cycle as the diode really has a rating for (in this case) 15 Watt, but the duty cycle turns it on only about 1/3 of the time. If this wasn't done, the laser would be dead in about a minute.

[@tulipgraphics]

so cool, i will buy you a coffee or mosterd soon. i received this week the atomstack A5 Pro 40W, started right away with help of a friend. do you have an Air assist also for my engraver ? i do not know anyone yet with an 3D printer to make an air assist. I will be in Holland In August.

[@3dPrintCreator]

I think with the Atomstack you won't need the air assist, as it has a cooler blowing air under the laser that works just fine. I am now testing another high power diode laser and a review is coming up.

[@lesliehargrove4916]

Will you be selling the new air assist? I don’t have a 3D printer

[@3dPrintCreator]

No, but you can download the file and have it printed at a makerspace near you.

[@myMotoring]

sir will this work with CO2 laser?

[@3dPrintCreator]

Most probably it won't be needed with a CO2 laser as the frequency of the light makes it possible to mark metal by default.

[@myMotoring]

@@3dPrintCreator nope. My 50W CO2 doesn't leave a mark on any metal. This mustard method also didn't worked.

[@tomwillis1264]

Great video and info. Thank you

[@3DJapan]

So weird. Only mustard or will other condiments work?

[@3dPrintCreator]

Hi Phil, I am reasonably certain that the chemical reaction that makes this work with mustard can also (and perhaps much better) be caused by another substance. I myself am not good enough with chemistry to know exactly which substances are responsible for this chemical reaction, and which other existing substance also uses these components, but I am pretty sure there is such a thing.

[@danielwouters1123]

5 weeks ago i tried this. I posted a little video on the ortur fb page. I saw someone doing it on KZbin. He explained the chemical reaction. In my experians, don't do this without proper ventilation. I think the smoke of the burning mustard and stainless steel is not healty at all.

[@3dPrintCreator]

Hi Daniel, that sounds like really important information you share. Do you possibly have a link to that video? I learned about this process in my local Makerspace and I do not know the chemical reaction that goes behind it. In my opinion, you are heating up the mustard like you would if you use mustard for cooking, but I might be totally wrong here.

[@danielwouters1123]

I will search for the video i watched. If i rememer right, it was something with the chrome. In "normal" life no one is burning mustard haha so with cooking you wil never heat up mustard like we do!!

[@adamnorton9595]

I think I was the one to first post the mustard technique. You can see it on my channel. One thing that would be helpful to compare results is to clarify that some laser diode engraver manufacturers incorrectly use the input electrical power to rate lasers. For decades the standard has been the optical power output, which is about 1/3 of the input. You can see that sleazy marketeers prefer the larger number.

[@danielwouters1123]

Its your video i saw!! I dunno anything of chemicals. But i worked with stainless steel for 27 years. Great to learn something new!!

[@3dPrintCreator]

@Adam Norton You have an extra subscriber :-) I learned about this technique in the Makerspace where I sometimes volunteer. It was one of the kids that showed me this trick. As for the laser power, In almost all my other video's about the lasers I have, I explain this fact. In this video it was cut out because of the length of the video, and because I repeat myself over and over again :-) By the way, in Electronics it's very common to state the real power of the laser and not the result after pulse width modulation, which is needed to operate a diode laser. With a duty cycle of about 25 to 35 percent, the laser has indeed an optical output that is about 1/3 of the input power.

[@xicledragon]

I keep seeing people talk about orturs new 40w laser but google gives me nothing. Do you have a link to it?

[@3dPrintCreator]

They have talked about it, but it has not yet been released as far as I Know. NeJe has already brought the 40Watt lasers to the market, and they can be used on the Ortur, but I wait for the official laser.

[@laserwizard1982]

@@3dPrintCreator Do you know if the "40W" modules use a different diode than the NUBM44 (7W optical output). It is my understanding that the "20W" modules are 5W out, the "30W" modules are 7W out. What does that place the 40W modules for their output power? Is it one diode or two with a beam combiner? Just wondering if you may know.

[@3dPrintCreator]

@@laserwizard1982 I don't have hands on experience yet, but I read info about the 40 watt Neje model that it has an optical output of about 15 watt and also that it uses a beam combiner. But as said, I have not yet had a chance to open a more powerful model.

[@rubenangel9986]

Can you engrave guns with the ortur master?

[@3dPrintCreator]

Most black anodized metal parts can be engraved, and also black polymer can be engraved. Silver or Tan colors are difficult. I successfully engraved my G17, my M4 magazines and my polymer Evo with the Ortur Master 2.

[@rubenangel9986]

@@3dPrintCreator I appreciate your reply you got a sub here.. I hope you have an amazing day

[@BHorst.BHorsty]

With the Ortur Mustard 15W

[@3dPrintCreator]

That would be a great name for the next Ortur laser !!! :-)

[@synapticaxon9303]

I guess it'll cut the mustard then! :)

[@omarrojas4189]

Where can I buy the air assistant you are using.

[@3dPrintCreator]

Download the files and take them to ANY makerspace in your surrounding. for a few dollars (and sometimes for free) they will print it for you.

[@ericvandamme6102]

zou dit op glas ook lukken met mosterd ?

[@3dPrintCreator]

Glas lukt ook prima zonder mosterd.

[@LudwigSpiegel]

Amazing!

[@stephensharma3259]

where to buy this. mustard . and what is this mustard anyway.. ☺️

[@3dPrintCreator]

It's delicious poison. Made in the France, and in the Netherlands.

[@stephensharma3259]

@@3dPrintCreator so its your normal yelow Mustard we use on fastfood? 🤔

[@3dPrintCreator]

@@stephensharma3259 Yes, thats it. :-)

[@360PanoAchern]

It's possible to share the Fusion 360 file? Or I have to design by myself.

[@3dPrintCreator]

When the new version comes out, I will share the STL file only, but if someone requests the STEP file, I will email it. That way, I will have a little control over who uses it. Non commercial, no problem... Commercial, no way.

[@360PanoAchern]

@@3dPrintCreator I write you today an email.

[@3dPrintCreator]

Lol, I didn't release the file yet... I am still testing and upgrading the air assist so that I don't have to make another one next week.

[@360PanoAchern]

@@3dPrintCreator ... lol? Do you read the email? I constructed a plate myself..

[@3dPrintCreator]

Fine by me, but the part you need is still work in progress, so you can create it yourself, or wait until I have it finished. The fun I have with this channel is in the things I do for it. I am not a constructor or builder for other people, I let other people enjoy what I made.

[@Flyinghearts]

werkt het ook op een Ortur Master 2 15w?

[@3dPrintCreator]

100% zeker !!! De video is gemaakt met een Ortur Master 2 15 Watt machine.

[@Flyinghearts]

@@3dPrintCreator en welke stand moet je hem instellen?

[@paulreeder5241]

It is the *Acid* in the mustard that weakened the metal. Can you actually feel the depth of the cut *Into* the metal? I haven't tried this yet.

[@3dPrintCreator]

Yes, you can feel it. Yet, the depth is not that deep.

[@honda35061]

Thank you very much

[@hugoferreira17]

Usefull. Thanks

[@3dPrintCreator]

Thank you.

[@marlonglodo1930]

iam so sad i try it but nothing happen, iam using neje 20watts laser

[@3dPrintCreator]

There can be a few reasons, but the main reason is focus. Make sure you have the object in perfect focus. If that doesn't help you, use another type of mustard, and make it go slower (as slow as possible) and repeat the engraving, maybe 10 times. With any type of mustard it will eventually work, but some will need more power, slower speeds, and more passes, then others.

[@marlonglodo1930]

@@3dPrintCreator I try 100 up 50 speed. And 100% power. 20 times pass. I focus the lense carefully.. Maybe the brand of mustard. I will buy another Tom. Thank you very much sir for your time.. Keep safe

[@antennasbc]

It's not engraved. It is marked. Big difference. Plus that laser isn't 15W. It's input power not output.

[@3dPrintCreator]

Yep, you are right. I had to look it up as English is not my native language, but Marking is the better word for it. Thanks. By the way, In almost any of my laser video's about diode lasers, I explain the power difference. In this video that part was cut out because the video got to long.

[@aldepeche]

top! goed gedaan. bedankt

[@3dPrintCreator]

Thanks, Graag gedaan :-)

[@Kotdt1]

Nice video

[@TetraCNC]

LOL I hope your don't really think engraving your name in the scissors is going to keep her from swiping them. Very elegant solution for the air assist

[@3dPrintCreator]

Whahaha. I have lost them already... Somewhere in the house.

[@onefastbob]

@@3dPrintCreator Look behind the couch....

[@robertgoff6479]

Ha! He thinks putting his name on something is going to settle the argument.

[@3dPrintCreator]

Nope... Scissors became a collectors item. They are gone forever now, I think.

[@frank6048]

Ortur Master? More like Ortur Mustard

[@3dPrintCreator]

For sure. You are so right

[@briangeiswite4452]

I had no luck with mustard on my knife.

[@3dPrintCreator]

To bad, as I show in another video on my channel, there are huge differences in the used mustard.

[@briangeiswite4452]

I'll have to try another kind

[@jasonparker1262]

my laser 5.5 watts wont engrave metal how do that ?

[@3dPrintCreator]

Use stainless steel with a high amount of carbon in it, and use oil or mustard to transfer the heat of the laser into the carbon in the steel.

[@albertofilipetti6522]

Se usi materiale spesso il sistema non funziona....

[@3dPrintCreator]

Non parlo abbastanza bene l'italiano per capire tutto quello che dici, ma da come l'ho letto dici che non ottieni un buon effetto con tutti i materiali, vero? Se è così, ho realizzato un altro video che mostra che utilizzo diversi tipi di senape e non tutti funzionano. Alcuni tipi di senape funzionano molto bene, altri non fanno assolutamente nulla.

[@marcellang3084]

15W are input, not the output!

[@3dPrintCreator]

Yes, you are right. Please.... Also watch any of my other video's about this laser i made earlier this year. I have been telling about the input versus output power so many times that I am not going to repeat myself in every video over and over again. I keep calling the lasers by the NAME the manufacturer and sellers have given them. In my detailed video's about the machines I tell this story over and over again, but I don't think I have to when I am talking about the use of the machines.

[@marcellang3084]

@@3dPrintCreator I looked at your really good videos. I think the manufacturers do it like in the 90s with audio amplifiers and their contradicting statements

[@MrNlce30]

How to start a fight with your partner using a laser engraver.

[@3dPrintCreator]

Maybe that will be the next video... But then I will do it in my own style, making laser sabers and 3d printed shields...

[@johndayle3620]

Tim cook

[@DimensionMachine]

That isnt engraved. The stainless is annealed, and marked black by the localized heat. I might add it is not even very well marked, the "A" is missing its cross bar. I applaud the effort, but dont make more of someting than it really is!

[@3dPrintCreator]

I don't know that much about steel, I have to admit. Yet, I thought annealing meant heating up the steel as a whole to treat it. Guess I am wrong with that?

[@Copperhead1968]

@@3dPrintCreator You are correct. Annealing means to "heat treat" metal.

[@s.h.5100]

I like the laser master Ortur 2 - B U T !!!!!! - it is not for deliver. Gearbest can not deliver it since 3 month !!! Sorry no, but nice video !!!

[@3dPrintCreator]

What shop on Gearbest did you use? I have seen several people receive there orders within 3 to 4 weeks. Gearbest is not a shop but a platform where different shops sell their goods.

[@ypguys]

I tried the metal burning set up by following your video and walla NOTHING. As clunky and mysterious as the light burn software so are all these goofy youtube fiction you guys post.

[@3dPrintCreator]

I feel so sorry for you that you don't have the decency to just ask why you can't do it when I can. If you had just asked me that, I would have told you in response that it could be because of the acidity in the mustard, why one person is doing well very quickly, and the other really has to adjust his speed to a very low speed, for example 25mm / min and 10 passes. But whether you use very sour mustard or very mild ones, in all cases I managed to get a good result... So, I have satisfaction from my engraving work, and you have an off day because you did not succeed. Greetings from the Goofy PrintCreator.

[@ypguys]

@@3dPrintCreator OK I get it I'll look for the brand you used and try again

[@3dPrintCreator]

Believe me, the result I posted is real. Once you get it working, you will love this method. :-)

[@flitz1957]

super gaaf

[@3dPrintCreator]

Dank je.

[@TheDopalgangr]

Just get yourself a 30w Fiber laser and save your mustard for your hotdogs

[@3dPrintCreator]

For the price of a Fiber laser I can buy mustard AND hotdogs for the rest of my life :-) That said, I would love a fiber laser :-)

[@TheDopalgangr]

@@3dPrintCreator I have one sitting on my desk that I bought to mess around with and cant find anything cool to use it for. What can I make with it?

[@3dPrintCreator]

Most of the time they are used for marking text or graphics on plates that go on machines. I like to engrave my airsoft magazines with text, so they can be returned after a game of airsoft, and I engrave my audio and video equipment with my name and logo.

[@PunkR0ckz09]

@@TheDopalgangr You could give it for free to me :D I'll know what to make with it.

[@itwas3510]

You don’t know much do you

[@michalhazan3129]

You're constantly trying to make money from KZbin, what's the point of buying me a jar of mustard? But respect for the video ... thanks.

[@3dPrintCreator]

Ehh, yes I try to make a bit of money via my channel, but that is because I also have expenses when I make these video's and I spend a lot of time in making them. I don't see it as a job, yet I love to get a little reward for the time and effort I put into it. Is that wrong? The buying me a jar of mustard joke, was because everyone else (inlcuding myself) always asks for a cup of coffee and I wanted to be original. I don't think anyone else asked for a jar of mustard ever before on KZbin, or else proof me I am wrong. By the way... The joke about the mustard doesn't end there..............

[@michalhazan3129]

@@3dPrintCreator I'm just kidding with you ... if you don 't make money from youtube why spend a whole lot of time? Your videos are very good ...

[@timesparsenjr7479]

@@3dPrintCreator I appreciate your videos brother! There very helpful 🤙🏼