Our BIGGEST DIY FAIL ⛵️ EP48 - Companionway Door Build - Sailboat Restoration Project

LAHAKAI SAILING // ⛵️ S1 Ep48 // Companionway doors for sailboats are often sliding wood hatches but we wanted to replicate the watertight hatches we've see to take our boat to the next level for safety for sailing around the world. But this has been our biggest challenge yet! Check out how we attempted to design our own companionway door and maybe you can help us complete it!
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[@christophercarpenter8031]

Do it like a garage door or a shouter for your hatch that might work better plus you can seal it too

[@sibulelebikitsha159]

The viewership has good advice on how to sort that problem. Your design is cool This design would never work for my back, that reaching to the floor to maneuver something that big would further throw my back out. I think a horizontal sliding door would suite me. Still a cool design though

[@williamlongyard5887]

You have a good concept that WILL work. 1) Put "U" channels along sides of the case for the rollers to roll in, and so that the rollers will be controlled. The sides of the "U" channel will stop the side-to-side movement of the door frame. 2) Devise a retractable reel to attach to the back end of the door (cable with wound spring maybe from a lawn mower pull start?). This reel will take the weight of the sliding door and help open it. 3) A bulbous (P-shape) door seal all around the slanted hatch opening WILL work IF...once the door is down...two rotating latches are used that not only lock the door, but cinch it down thus compressing the seal. Such latches were common on 1930-60s cars, and are available for boats in stainless. Consider garage door latches. I DON'T think you're far off. Getting the lateral movement of the door under control seems like and big obstacle, but is easy with carefully sized, and installed, "U" channels. The stainless fabricator's work seemed a little crude for your needs, btw.

[@gandalf2439]

I agree with this the door needs to be the same width as the outside measurement of the rollers, this will stop the side movement. Also m I think putting a slight return on door sides plus a plastic or similar strip down the sides of the box should reduce the amount of noise and rubbing . Hope this is off help with your issue. And good luck !

[@radams009]

It could be in the front. With the U Channel's.

[@davidmedley5970]

A nylon C channel on each track will take up the slack and keep the noise down. Love the project. Keep up the great work.

[@frankquesnel2768]

Maybe some teflon inserts like slides instead of the rollers would make a tighter fit

[@briandale8386]

Mahogany wood tracks that are like gutters with drainage. A plexiglass top with mahogany hand grip . Then wood doors or stainless with glass

[@rayb3117]

Its a great idea. But maybe a swing door that is on hinges and just swings down covering the whole door might be more feasible right now.

[@lahakai]

We did see a couple of hinge doors out there. One was verticals, another was a barn door. Anything is possible still! Thanks for the feedback!! Cheers!

[@dennischaisson7229]

teflon rails will slide easy stop noise and keep everything in line cheap and easy to cut and form

[@michaelconner524]

What about a lightweight rolling ballistic glass door

[@MrHelmuth1]

William Longyard has already given you good advice relating to stabilizing the run of the companionway door panel with u-channels and adding the compression seal. I would add full length stripes (lists) of gliding material made out of Delrin, fastened to the interior sides of the u-channels, and the center of the sides of the door to keep it from swaying sideways. The same channels should be mounted to the vertical inclined parts of the door frame, which will help keeping out water and sideway movement of the door panel in closed position. I also would suggest to use marine grade aluminum instead of the stainless steel for the “box”, while leaving the doorframe as is made out of stainless steel. The aluminum part “box” can be treated with black oxide hard anodization to make it even more resilient to corrosion and scratch resistant. I would also build the “box” as an upper (removable) part, and a lower (fixed) part, in order to have an easy access to clean the guiding channels, which will be needed (the cleaning) more often than you think, in order to ensure proper functioning. Just my 2Cents…

[@alangurman3961]

A low cover that the hatch comes from with a flexible panel on top.

[@jazz1on]

Failure is only when you stop trying - continue on, great concept, just needs a little work. 80 % there :)

[@omna826]

I'm sure there is a easy solution maybe draw hinges to stabilize inside

[@klazyy641]

Lots of great advice from other viewers---I am nautically challenged, but they all sound knowledgeable and practical so I'd take a close look at their advice. What I am most impressed about this episode (and others from back in time) is that you admit your shortcomings and potential "fails" and ask for advice. I am feeling good about this problem and am certain that you with your advisors will solve it. Thanks for taking the time and effort to bring us along----and for sharing the cuteness of your four footed crewmate.

[@alcidesbirigui722]

Achei tradução. Legal. Vcs são muito simpático e educado.

[@saildreamer]

Take a look at how Garcia catamarans make their waterproof and highly secure weather doors. I think you need to two section door so you can seal and access from both inside and outside whereas yourdesign is going to make access from inside very difficult.

[@kahfr25]

Hello! Your drawing seemed really cool to me, once made you can see the faults and those that will happen; -reduction in descent height -weight -difficulty for sealing -difficulty for security against theft -... I don't know if it's a coincidence but this morning I saw the video of the Garcia 60 and I think it's a door design that would look good on your boat; it also has its flaws; - reduction in width but you can remove the doors from the hinges if you need to pass something bulky -The handles they chose are not good, you can hang on them, you need “flat” ones or ones with a rounded end Tell me what you think! If it's poorly translated it's Google translate I'm French and not good enough to write a text like that

[@kahfr25]

www.garciayachts.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/04/COCKPIT-VUE-1-GARCIA-60-Preview.jpg

[@PhilAshcroft-l7f]

Look at the new Ovni 430 - you might find some inspiration on this issue

[@bobcornwell403]

The biggest weakness I see with this design is that it will be difficult to get a good seal at the top. Not only that, but salt spray will find its way into the pocket the hatch slides into. Even stainless steel corrodes. In fact, it corrodes in such an insidious way that I don't trust it. It crevas corrodes and often corrodes from the inside out. Also, the weight of this thing can do a great job at smashing fingers. I suggest that, if you want to go with a pocket hatch, make it out of grp/foam sandwich to make it lighter. Also, make the pocket out of that. For my money, I'd go with a side-hinged door. But instead of hinges, it would have two arms on the outside, which would have axle pins that go through welded on plates. The axles would be well past the edge of this door, so it can get a good seal on the inside edge. This may not look pretty, but it would be sturdy and easy to maintain. The seal can be a simple flange that encircles the opening. Such would be very easy to maintain.

[@emmengel]

Put half inch angle stainless steel around the inside, haul side, facing up or. Put half inch angle stainless steel around the batch. The hat should fit over the outer lip. Place a rubber seal in between. Use dogs to tighten from the inside.

[@somadevo]

Could you have two vertical doors with teak frames or other suitable wood, hinged on the sides with a wooden slide out over them that could have a latch when companion way was closed. Wooden doors would be pretty and nice to live with? I had a sailboat with hinged doors and I loved them.

[@kahfr25]

hello! Votre dessin me paraissait vraiment cool, une fois fabriqué on voit les defauts et ceux qui vont arriver; -reduction de la hauteur de descente -poids -difficulté pour l'étanchéité -difficulté pour la securité contre le vol -... Je ne sais pas si c'est un hazard mais ce matin j'ai vu la vidéo du garcia 60 et je pense que c'est un design de porte qui irait bien sur votre bateau il présente aussi ses defauts; - réduction de la largeur mais ont peut retirer les portes des gonds si beson de passer quelque chose de volumineux -Les poignées qu'ils ont choisit ne sont pas bonne on peut s'accrocher dedans il en faudrait des "plates" ou avec une extremité arrondie Dites moi ce que vous en pensez! Si c'est mal traduit c'est google traduction je suis Français et pas assez doué pour écrire un texte pareil

[@DonFarmer-hq5sw]

Something like a roll up door like Uma used on their interior doors ?

[@Kami8705]

Put a 2nd set of rollers at the front to take up the slop,and add a latch to keep it open. As far as sealing it, just have it roll out into place, then put a locking mechanism on the door itself that will pull it down against the hull to create a seal. The box it stores in will block out water above the door.

[@einarquay]

I know I have seen this door type somewhere. They work ok on some boats.

[@DVolvoguy777-x7o]

Might be too late to suggest but Odd Life Crafting, Roberta and Duca’s boat has the same hatch idea you are gunning for. Might want to connect with them and get a drawing?

[@mikakari9498]

Move it on the top so that you will get more headspace. You can still add solar panels on top of it.

[@marcoruis]

No it’s no fail at all. You reinvented the doorway. It only needs some fine tuning. Can’t you make a Teflon rail for it?

[@emmengel]

Oh yeah use HDPE, high-density polyethylene to make rod bushings for your hatch surrounding area, these would go into the magazine where you're hatch is.

[@RohanTheBT]

I would do this with two folding hatch doors. Not steel. Hinges down either side and a locking system top and bottom in the middle

[@amunderdog]

UHMW Polyethylene for tracks.

[@nathanhenderson506]

I would put it back on top like it was and use brackets to elevate my solar panels and it still be hidden under the solar panels

[@kevinmartin3859]

That does seem a problem but you have never let things beat you so good luck

[@dsmith9456]

The first thing that came to mind when I saw what you were trying to do with the doorway was, Velux Window. Maybe some ideas may come from that?

[@stevet647]

I may be too late to help but one steel yacht I owned was home built and every hatch had car boot lid or rear hatch style designs the boot lid style was wide opening hatches for airflow and the hatchback design was for every other opening. None of them ever leaked in bad weather and the rubber seals were just car door or hatch seals! The other yacht had similar to what you are attempting but maintenance was painfilled, it would stick, jam have grease buildup and with heat grease dry out. I actually cut it out and replaced it with the DIY car boot hinges but replaced the bolts with studs and internal pins so I could remove the door not sure the last one is needed but it was if upside down I can remove pins so the door only has to move the stud length to fall away. This was after being stuck inside or outside that stupid door design in a steel boat that moves and has salt etc get everywhere somehow. Note I never tested the if upside down escape tho. Sometimes simple is good

[@youtube_dj_65]

There are waterproof roller shutters on the market, they are made of aluminum. But you can also DIY from iron strips or aluminum (is much lighter) overlapping like roof tiles than with roller skates or ball bearings with rubber wheels and make some clear plexiglass or something else in there for a look through.I hope you get some my idea what you have. And good luck with your dream sailing yacht.

[@clstjam4321]

This is a tough challenge and a lot of people are making good suggestions as to how to make it work. But I'm going to throw another idea out entirely. There's a reason virtually every sailboat out there has the companionway hatch stow above the deck - they need to be serviceable. If it were my boat, that's how I'd do it. For one thing you can make it so the enclosure is just a "hat" that bolts to the deck making the tracks serviceable, because you're going to need to be able to clean inside the enclosure. Also outside will give you a taller opening and more headroom inside the cabin, not to mention reduce the number of gaps you need to weatherproof. Then there's the ability to have the enclosure incorporate positive stops for the wheels so the hatch can't be ripped out. As a welded enclosure you can't do that but if it's assembled above the deck it becomes much easier to accomplish. If you ignore all of this, at least consider making the enclosure in two pieces so you can attach tracks and stops inside of it in addition to being able to clean the inside.

[@lahakai]

The idea is to make this serviceable as well with the door removeable and pieces can be changed if needed. We totally agree that everything on a boat needs to be easy for maintenance. Everything is a possibility still, we are open to all suggestions! Thanks for the feedback! Cheers!

[@matthewnunn79]

You have two roller on front side of the hatch, if you put two more supporting wheels on the open end of enclosure. In that way the door is fully supported through its length, then the back wheel on the window can sit on the case wheel locking the into place when door is close. Hope you understand what I'm what I'm trying explain👽

[@daviddelrosario828]

So sorry that this first attempt didn't work. You guys are really smart enough to come up with another attempt. Your interior is really looking amazing!

[@victorhooker2439]

Good idea just let it ponder you will get there have a look around latches rubber seals the inner rail for the rollers sounds ok perhaps made of teflon or wood not sure the u shape is required you may find that a say 3lnch out from the top could help to with the water control and sealing

[@georgemicall]

why don't you do the traditional sliding wooden door, coming out flat , it's simple and it's water tight

[@georgemicall]

I have the same thing on my boat and it works good

[@rbarker4426]

Slide in a strip on each side from the front to the back. Made out of wood to keep the companion door from rocking side, and you can put a veneer on the top and the bottom. On the inside of the companion door container to keep it from making noise.

[@Degenhardt450]

If you are going to use polycarbonate, make sure to allow for movement as polycarbonate has a much bigger coefficient of expansion than steel.

[@lahakai]

Good tip! Thanks!

[@davekimbler2308]

Make iot like a Gull wing door on a car, one piece opens up with a piano hinge , all except the window in fiber-glass !

[@davidabaxter4424]

That looks a lot like the hatch on "Odd"?

[@hanabishi5686]

Guys, it's the first step to success...

[@chrismiotke6543]

Make doors see Garcia yachts

[@JoseOliveira-wl6ic]

Talvez fazer uma porta tipo cofre com manípulo que controla 4 trancas em cunha para fazer vedação contra borracha e com fechadura integrada no manípulo

[@bdphourde]

In addition to whatever else you do, consider making the door (window) frame wider. It should overlap the side frame as much as possible to enable a better seal against it when it is latched closed. It doesn't look like you have any way of aligning the door (window) when it is closing. It should fit down outside of some raised guides down the sides of the companionway opening for alignment and better sealing. A steel plate will be necessary to seal up the top over the door slide case and maybe a vent of some type could be put in that. You will also need to be able to close and lock it from the INSIDE as well.

[@danahooper7101]

Did you look at Duca and Roberta’s door on ODD?

[@lahakai]

We’ve been on their boat but don’t remember how it was exactly. It was dark out 😋

[@HansQuistorff]

I have planed to make windows like this all around the boat. I don't think you need an enclosure just a track for it to slide in. With pins on the underside of the top of the widow that stop it at the point that the top edge flips up and seals against the lip of the overhead. sals against a gasket on the sides and bottom and the overhead.

[@kayweiss1862]

your choice of a steel hull has many advantages ,especially concerning safety ,that includes easy to have no through holes below waterline and watertight living compartment ,depending on 'lid' construction of lockers ,ventilation ,portholes and companion way . the common way for watertight bulkheads and companion way are watertight doors on hinges and pressure tightening . this should be still possible to do and detailed designs obtainable . wave rover channel tried what you tried ,but not sure if he succeeded . your design seems to be likely to leak over time ,or even right away. a steel boat has 2 other additional advantages ,worthwhile to research . relative safe against forced entry ,if so designed and a more easy, reliable way to create a tabernacle for the mast ,enabling river and lake passages/adventures ,otherwise difficult or almost impossible to access . wishing you the very best !

[@kayweiss1862]

ps.keeping the new door system ,'watertightness' can be enhanced ,by adding a 'rail' system onto the frame ,plus tightening the door from inside to the frame .

[@doncastor4807]

You should try to make a garage door type design that way you could just partially keep it closed/open also.

[@schuttrostig5729]

I think you should make the door full width, as with your design your entrance is narrower than what it could be. do that by attaching the part that attach es the 2 roller after the frame, not as part of the final "door". Also i would add some L profiles to it to the sides (facing upwards) to get some guidance and have slotted frame where they can ride in to guide it. This can also be used to protect the window in the hatch from scratches.

[@markuskalapudas9785]

I wonder, why it have to be steel? It's not light material. And it's not so nice to open it from inside. I'd go with e-glass. And if it have to be sliding, raise solar pavel a bit. Have tracks on roof. Normal hatch locks and rubber junta for making it waterproof. I think, it would be more comfortable to use from inside.

[@billywooden192]

I would like to offer a cheap quick solution to your door fail. Actually your video solved the problem I was have trouble with doing the exact same opening your boat does . Have your fabricator build a 1/2 “ x 3/4” deep track on both sides of the frame . This method will also allow you to gain the top part of the door which I see you lost by having to lift the door up into the slot hanging from your ceiling. I say move the enclosure back flush with the original opening . I cut 1” square pieces of walnut sized it to the width of the inside of the track allowing 1/8” on each side to make sure it will slide easily. Mill off 5/16 of an inch off of 2 sides of each slat opposite of each other and on each end of the slat . What it will leave is a tab that will secure the slats so they can only slide up to be push back into the enclosure you already have , to open slide up upward and downward to close. After you get the slats perfectly level so they move freely inside the slotted frame on each side. Now on the interior side of the you have some more choices to make on how you want to connect all of the wood slats , I used canvas glued and stapled hold each slat the correct distance apart ( like a roll top desk. That’s where I got the idea . But since you need it weather proof maybe rubber it’s your choice . It is important to make sure the distance between each slat allows the entire door to make it through the bend of the door track at the top and make that bend ( almost like a 7 but with a radius at the bend). So when you install your hinge the slats will make that corner smoothly . Just go look at a roll top desk and there you will have it.

[@tractiontravel4884]

Was a good idea but the work around for a functional door could cost way more - my suggestion is the usage of roller shutters from fire trucks for example. They can be installed in simple C-channels, follow guide rails with a radius, are water resistant, customizable in their width, don’t rattle too much, comes with a lock and are cheap to by used. Hope one of the many ideas will help you out

[@karelundberg9523]

The hatch with garage is now a fact. The metal frame of the hatch can perhaps be replaced with just a sheet of lexan glass. Sliding rails made of wood or plastic are folded into the sides and on the underside of the garage, which causes the Hatch to slide smoothly and quietly. Make the opening slightly conical, narrower downwards. After the Hatch is pulled out of the garage and folded down, it only needs to be lifted a short distance and then lowered into rails on each side of the opening. Make the side rails with edges that fold over so that the Hatch stays in place. Remember to provide the opening at the bottom with a stop for the hatch before it catches on the side rails. And also remember that the hatch must be able to be opened from the inside. This is largely a well-proven design found on many boats. Wishing you all the best despite the weather.

[@karelundberg9523]

Correction; Sliding rails made of wood or plastic are placed on the sides and at the bottom of the garage

[@SVHummingbird2]

Use uhmw slides as well as the rollers to quiet it down and stop the side to side motion also can be used for stops to keep the rollers from coming to far out.. So, not a fail, just not quite finished yet.

[@Buildingtarmoo]

A backing plate that slides out with the door that meets the area your trying to cover..

[@johnthomson1579]

Not sure where the difficulty lies. The top sleeve/box can presumably be sealed into the surrounding boat frame. The sliding door could perhaps be encased in a Ps tic sheath with runners. The metal door could have firm but yielding rubber surround that would seal the opening when closed against it. Your design looks good to me I’m not sure where the flaw is (apart from maybe money), A more robust version of drawer runners is needed.

[@chhindz]

Probably need some of that mylar sheets to deaden sound, don't think the inside requirement is really valid as solar panels can be raised a few inches, but could probably work either side.

[@sergiogobbi6085]

I would abolish the box all together. Weld hinges all along the top part, add hydraulic poles on both sides, add lips around the companionway opening and opposite lips on the door's (kind of a hatch system) inside and a heavy duty rubber in between the lips to water tight it. And marine locks inside of the hatch. As you push down the door/hatch, the lips get inside of each other, and the rubber gasket makes the lips tight. I hope it helps and you guys can improve this idea.

[@2004mfmatthews]

Two things to think about. #1 A closure that includes water and sealing it in or out and existing products that use the same or similar design. First impressions were to design a garage door design with panels that follow the contour when opened and have a roller spring tension system to aid in the opening and closing. I envisioned being able to easily open and close and even partially open with panels rather than a solid piece. Then one of my old jobs led me to think of walk in baths, which has the flexible panels already designed and lift and lock or lower in place and use pneumatic seals to keep water from escaping in the bathing position. Once drained the seal is discharged and releases the door to be lowered back to allow exit and entry. Not certain how a metal fabrication of this design will work but poly or fiberglass it will. I believe they refer to this type of door as a roller panel door.

[@sailing_rosie]

Have you resolved this issue? The easiest solution would be a custom sized offshore hatch like on the class 5.80 boats..

[@lahakai]

We are still working on the solution! We tried to check out the boat you suggested but couldn’t find a good pic of the companionway and how it works. Could you send us a link?

[@kayweiss1862]

if you want to keep the design and construction ,weld extra linings in the frames ,from all sides ,thereby forming a gasket with rubber, or other working lining .In addition ,add tightening points from inside , for security 4 ,but normally using less .In addition ,make all openings ,even dorados ,truly water and water pressure proof when capsized .Doing that ,offers you far greater security in big seas and actually improves break in security ,something not often talked about ,but advisable .

[@brendanwhite3731]

Hi interesting but the rolers are on the wrong side making the pull out door swing right to left if the roolers were on the inside making a tighter look when the door pull out. Another have a look at the GGR race boats some had to modified there doors and some put in a submarine type door looker for the long sailing the race takes.

[@lukejantzik3786]

get a ready made large hatch they are water proof

[@rdavisrock]

You could use some of those cutting boards' material, ✂️ cut them down to fill the gaps. take the wheels 🛞 off and use the cutting board material to make it water 💧 tight.

[@hwahomesteadingthehollow8629]

HDP (high density plastic) for U channel. Not real expensive, easy to cut, water proof and will last forever. Put them on each side for a track for the door to slide in.

[@hosssam6621]

Build real door with hinges put rubber sealing and a wheel type door handle that actors as lock and as tight water pressure hold down, door like submarines

[@canawest]

Teflon is your friend. Machine and install Teflon rails to tighten up your door and provide a pathway for water egress. What software are you using?

[@KandMe1]

My thought is the box is good but better to use another substrate, something other than steel for the actual hatch itself. Maybe include a see through element to it. So build on what you already have there and use the box insert and opening as it but use the best alternative as far as materials.

[@Great-to-be]

It’s a great concept but here is a suggestion…..the sliding door needs to be fixed to a sliding track on both sides that is able to pivot downwards. This will stop the sideways motion, get rid of the rollers you’re currently using and get rid of the box element. Small, guides will need to be fitted at the door frame end to hold the door up when open. The door will then be able to slide into the closed position with only the small guides to position it. Then fit a channel to the undersides and bottom of the door facing downwards that will sit over an upright section welded to the frame opening. This male/female overlap will stop any water ingress. I am a TIG welder and just wish I was there to help you. It’s clear in my mind but perhaps not so clear as I’ve described. Best of luck….

[@igorka3586]

Like Garcia on the exploration 45 ?

[@boosted4runner86]

Tbh it looks to be a sturdy good start. You could use feflon or that white chopping board material as a slide/spacer to tighten it all up. Ball bairing slides would be better but let's be real it's in the ocean and no matter how well its seals rust would get into the little bairings. The good old kiss saying "keep it simple stupid" si.ple seams to work well which is also a bonus. You could literally get a block of that chopping board material and with a router and a cheap ply jig router out the slide like a draw. You got this guys . Once done that door looks like and solid

[@sailingsilverwind]

Awesome episode, welldone. I cant advise you really, but with lack of knowledge i would say; make sure theres some PU 'wall or slider' and then PU roller weels as you already seem to have. I know this from car racing, PU rubbers are always everywhere in track cars!

[@willehbooker2859]

I concur with others saying you could use C channels or L channels to guide the door into the superstructure, another thing mentioned by myltiple others is using glide rails made of teflon or other plastics, I think these ideas are great. overall I think that you guys should consider tighter tolerances, it looks quite a bit wobbly and, as shown in your video, the door moves quite a bit. If you really want a watertight seal you will probably have some sort of rubber in between the frame and the door. some comments sugest the top (hinge) part wont be watertight as this wont be able to move backwards, I personally dont think this will be an issue if you make a cutout. if you have enough space for the door to sit flush with the frame without rubber this should work without an issue. if you do use rubber this will need quite some force in order to be watertight. you could use an automotive rubber, like used on car doors. they should give you a decent watertightness. but I dont think this will be sufficient if you do capsize. car doors arent made to be submercible. if you use a solid rubber you'd need a bigger force to close the door. you could use "hinge latches" on the inside to provide enough force. (you could also use both, the automotive or similar for daily use and the solid rubber for storms/ heavy weather) something else to consider is when do you want it to be watertight. you'll probably use it a lot on a calm day maybe its a little cold so you want the door shut. to go trough the trouble of making it water tight every time you go outside is probably gonna get annoying real fast. Also, do you want it to be watertight when you're inside of the boat? or do you also want to leave the boat in a watertight state? if you want the latter you'll have to figure out either a, a way to exit the vessel other than the main door to be able to close it from the inside. (AND open it up again) or b, a way to make it watertight from the outside, I was thinking about bolting it outside of the rubber seal. this could also be an option for making it "storm proof" another thing is you probably want to be able to lock the cabin to keep out unwanted visitors. I'd advise a way to attach a standard (numbered) lock to keep everything safe when not on/near the vessel. I am an engineer in a dutch company and if you want I could support you with CAD drawings or ideas, I've recently watched the series and I'm glad to help in ways I can be of value to your project and help you succeed. I am personally in the process of drawing (in CAD) and building a motor cruiserboat from scratch and I have previous nautical experience. Lets keep the dream alive!

[@jymShuz2617]

If your plans are for a solar system on your roof, why not use the companion door as the base for the first panel? Slide the door into a weather tight enclosure ?

[@piercet]

Look at openbuilds vslot wheels and aluminum rail extrusions. Get the delrin or metal wheels. Fix the extrusions in place, mount the wheels on the door, then add sealing straps and front glass

[@meandmybuddy964]

Will freezing freeze you in in very cold weather if it’s anything like steel hatches

[@Alex_NL]

Hi Lori, Missed the episode, are you on holiday ?

[@lahakai]

Hey Alex! We didn’t have an episode this week sadly! There were a bunch of delays on the build and then Luke and I caught a nasty bug going around. So we were down for the count and couldn’t rally this week. Love that you checked in!!!

[@Powerwinoffical]

Great video! Interested in reviewing our POWERWIN BT100 1280Wh LiFePO4 Battery?

[@canalestadodedireito8020]

Porque vcs não instalam um vidro blindado ? Acredito que funcione .

[@J0EYbagaDONUTS]

WILL LOCKWOOD from Kindig-it Design is your guy . Only problem is hes in Utah USA . I don't think you will find someone like him where you are . Good luck

[@Aldo.flores]

The problem I’ve see here it’s that the only support part of the door are the wheels, In structures this is knowns as free single support, so this element moves freely because has many degrees of liberty on any axis, in order to avoid that you need to build a rail on the inside of the hatch to reduce the amount of movement, it could be simple as using an L or U profile, and make a proper structure on the top side of the door in order to fit on the rail as a single element and reduce the stress at the end part. For this moving elements I recommend you use a much powerful software that sketch up like rhinoceros or autodesk fusion (this one its free for students and makers) were you can do much things like create constraints on the pieces and move the connected elements like on real life, also use the evaluation tools to measure the stress on the piece, and know where the design would fail, and then export the pieces for 3d printing, laser cutting, CNC machining or whatever you what to do

[@robertnorkus5582]

If you make Teflon guides for the sides of the slides,about 10 inches apart,that will handle the guides of that slide.simply notch the Teflon cubes so it is the same ,top and bottom.use lexan for the window,or reinforced plexiglass.

[@barimedic]

Add rollers to the front that have a close clearance/tolerance to the outside channel and it will stop the side to side motion. Should make it easier to handle weight on the front end.

[@vernebrown4441]

Just what I was thinking, then add a short channel at the bottom of the closed position, that will pull the door into the weather seals.

[@lanetatom2701]

There are various materials that can be used that will serve as waterproof for a time at least. Various woods used on marine exteriors such as teak, white oak, etc. Easily shaped but must be cared for. PVC. rubber gaskets, and the fabric Gor-tex is waterproof.

[@chrissterba501]

Love the content!! I'm sure you have thought of this and just curious to learn more. May I ask what your thoughts were / are in regard to the stainless-steel vs steel haul materials and compatibility?

[@FearlessZi]

Try using reinforced plexiglass?

[@vladdracula7116]

polycasrbonat works better and longer, plexiglass is not good enough.

[@sergueiothonucci1638]

😌💪💪💪

[@chhindz]

Well I am thinking a companionway that looks really secure is the Garcia exploration 45, But it differs in that they abandoned traditional hatch design and trying to perfect that. Their result, looks bullet proof.

[@lahakai]

Wow that's a nice looking hatch! Love how they were thinking outside of the box.

[@johndavidson6867]

Not a fail as such, just more work required to meet our expectations. As a previous comment stated you only fail when you quit trying.

[@claudehopper9813]

The S.S Hatch looks very heavy and awkward ( action opening & closing ) . Lahakai looked top-heavy after modifing the cabin , you might want to start thinking about not adding more weight on top .

[@sigaoplanob]

Dois roletes laterais como guia vão ajudar a alinha a peça. Esses roletes podem sair quando a peça for toda esticada pra fora, para facilitar ela dobrar. Good! 😉⛵⛵

[@aphilippinesadventure9184]

The design does not look easy to use from the inside. I was facing a similar challenge to rework my companionway doors. I wanted doors that were secure from intruders when away, watetight in case of a knockdown or freak wave, could be strongly secure from the inside and could be used as a light if desired. We ended up with a two layered door, hinged on the outside door and a lexan on the inside that can be locked in place.

[@athosbulgari6571]

Nos EUA vocês compram um barco excelente por US$ 20K.....pensem nisso....

[@horacioferrando4455]

hola yo personalmente tengo un barco de acero que pienso llevar a itajai para su remodelacion pero en su caso para comenzar pondria guias para que la puerta no tenga movimiento libre y por la parte posterior de la puerta que bascula una trampa de agua no se como explicarlo , un angulo en el marco y otro inverso en la puerta asi no habria posibilidad de pingar por la puerta , la parte de la escotilla le haria una sobre escotilla como un techo que tape la parte inicial , suerrte

[@hiltonruiz870]

Existe uma indústria de trilhos em Curitiba FGVTN eles tem site fabricam trilhos grandes para caixa eletrônico e pelo que vi no vídeo me parece que vai funcionar muito bem e sem barulhos e bem firmes. BONS VENTOS.