Off Grid Water Heater for Tiny Cabin Sled- DIY Heat Exchanger + Snowmobile Camper

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I put together a DIY off grid water heater, using a copper coil, and ammo can. I use the heat exchanger to warm the inside of my snowmobile camper, which I plan to do some winter camping with this year.
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#cabinsled #tinycabin #offgrid

[@harolddomangue9206]

Here is a thought: thermo floor heating run tubing on the wood floor and insulate the floor Like in a house. The floor will heat the camper and your backside while you sleep

[@Beltloop29]

I was just thinking the same thing. Rarely reply to these things but thought I should on this. Copper lines running back and forth either under the floor above the insulation or could be the wall. May be able to control the flow with another valve on outside or just inside with partially closing it to help control the temp. Also use some insulation on the pipes outside to help keep them from bursting. Maybe get a few fire bricks to set up just under the pot on the fire and possibly put some cobb around it to help further keep the heat.

[@Beltloop29]

Could still be used in combination with your ammo can.

[@BrooklynAvenue]

This is why I love watching projects develop.... you've come up with how he ought to build the next model.

[@harolddomangue9206]

@@BrooklynAvenue not building the next model but improving on this camper add tubing to floor place styrofoam between tubing and add strips of 2x4 boards to hold up sheets of plywood above tubing

[@heidiullrich966]

Exactly! Was thinking the same thing.

[@smpb238]

way cool . if i may add a thought ,it almost looks like you need to build a rocket stove kind of thing on the front of your sled so you can keep that system installed all the time. then run some coolant instead of water so it can get cold.

[@rveurope]

Thought the same, a little boat oven with a metalbacking would heat the camper as well when you have 2 metalsheet backing you get a convection inside and you can cook on the out side..make a little flap over the stove and its all weather proof

[@douggibson9084]

Excellent video Outsider. Glycol system for extreme cold weather. Have your lines insulated using a PVC pipe and pool noodle with couplers on each end. Heat sink on ammo box Excellent work.

[@RBMawby]

Good constructive comments are such a delight.

[@ants9230]

Definitely not ethylene glycol. Ethylene glycol is sweet smelling, sweet tasting, attractive to animals and extremely toxic. Any leaks could be potentially fatal to wildlife.

[@douggibson9084]

@@ants9230 is there an environmental solution to stop the water from freezing but safe to the wildlife.

[@lavrentichudakoff2519]

@@douggibson9084 I thought RV antifreeze would be safe. Could be wrong. Don't have any around at the moment to look at the label.

[@Mujajiconcept]

@@douggibson9084 drain the system when not in use

[@noahwwest]

if you wanted, you could put a bypass into the line to stop the heat entering the inside box, make an external expansion tank as well which the water would enter/exit, meaning it would be adjustable from inside the camper.

[@ay-mikey]

Yes use anti freeze and make little box on end of the hut drop the water lines in and strap the pan also next to the box out side it will be ready to use all the time

[@BrianBriCurInTheOC]

The correct definition of Water Hammer - Hydraulic shock (colloquial: water hammer; fluid hammer) is a pressure surge or wave caused when a fluid, usually a liquid but sometimes also a gas, in motion is forced to stop or change direction suddenly; a momentum change. This phenomenon commonly occurs when a valve closes suddenly at an end of a pipeline system, and a pressure wave propagates in the pipe.

[@odw32]

You could make some kind of a "cupholder" hole in the top of the ammobox, so you can partially submerge a food-safe aluminum bottle/canteen. 70-80c is certainly hot enough to heat some water "bain marie" style for warm drinks or reheating soup.

[@johnsellers2999]

Ok good idea you have there. I would also have a propane back up heater because you never know when that copper is going to break. And I'm betting it's gonna break on the coldest night ever. To not have a back-up in very remote and cold place can be a real serious problem. Wish I was young enough to play like that. My mind is for it but my body might not be strong enough anymore. But very cool heating system I must say

[@themiltonguy4530]

I would have used the hose to create under floor heating

[@Bluetoothedshark]

Build a mini log burner from a fire extinguisher, wall mount it, run it on kindling, chimney out the top, you could even build a back boiler from a gas canister or something and have hot water...

[@Rokomarn]

lol but that would actually be efficient and convenient.

[@rdlynes]

I would try using two radiators in a heavily insulated box mounted under the floor feeding a manifold to a radiant floor heating system. Running insulated copper lines out to the fire pit, the coiled copper in the pot would be using a low press closed-loop system, I would use molten salt not sand, this would be better heat storage. Inside the copper tubing try using a solution with a lower boiling point than water. You might be able to use a heat exchanger one side with a coolant fluid in it to keep it from freezing the other side of the heat exchanger you can drain. Just some thoughts off the top of my head. This is a little more technical but more sustainable.

[@Dr.Gunsmith]

Thanks for the great upload, respect brother.

[@rogerbeebe3950]

Awesome! Well done!!

[@MaDcOw1986]

Instead of the bulky ammo box inside, consuming space and keeps on heating, I think it would be better to make a radiator out of copper, and make a big one, wrapped around the walls or entire roof, it would also act as a heat battery as the big radiator can hold a lot of water, and the water tank outside so it would not build up too much heat thay would also build pressure, so you can still keep it sealed, preventing water loss compared to an open system.

[@harrrytoool1391]

Some great ideas here. You could upgrade your fire heat exchange coil and loop your water storage inlet pipe through the floor. Also encase an oblong wood burning stove encased in a fireproof box. lined with fireproof sheeting. Attach this to the end of your camper. Take care

[@MrHeatgap]

Maybe mount a simple heat-sync system on the top of the ammo box? Could provide better heat dissipation without actually using a radiator while keeping with your thermal battery idea. Just a thought, as your current setup seems more than sufficient.

[@Shifty681]

Hi some tips for improvement i would try to use isolated pipes for the way to your "house" so you lose less heat on the way and second add some heat storage medium in your circle you can cover the ammo container with some stones so they will heat up and hold the heat longer as the water or try to just throw in some stones to the water but make sure water still can circulate.

[@ThePlowGuys]

I would go with a parking heater. You could fit 20 liters of fuel, the heater, plus spare parts (ie a fuel pump) in that ammo box. One 12 volt batteries attached to a solar cell on the roof and you could go for over a week. I have one in my cargo van and I refill my 10-liter tank once a week. I completely understand what you are going for with this setup. I just think it would make for a good back up system. You know when the S&!t hits the fan. Nice job.

[@JB-dx8cm]

I would build a small little Dutch stove and front of your shack and try to rapping the copper on the small Dutch stove . and plus use Ant- freeze so it would not freeze .it's just an idea

[@kristenleblond5047]

I just have to say that you are one talented builder, creator, and engineer!!

[@felixmikkialmosttoasted3911]

Alot of comments. Iam not going to read them all. A couple questions/suggestions: -Valves on both sides where you break off both lines -a 50/50 water antifreeze , also has a corrosion inhibitor in the antifreeze - thermostatically controlled bypass valve that would just recycle to and from the lobster coil. Set it in the camper for 23C - your vent hose concerns me pointing upwards. As the condensation goes outside it can slowly freeze off. I would have it shorter and pointing downwards. Antifreeze as mentioned above raises your boiling point so should help with minimizing losses as well. Your ammo tank being square doesnt have a good pressure rating so this is important not to freeze your vent off. - a self loading log system on your fire. Looks like a W where the logs roll down. Nice work though.

[@DarkMetaOFFICIAL]

Wow this is so cool! i'm working on something similar but using Air- a heat exchanger, metal dryer hose, and small usb fan to heat a tent

[@GEAUXFRUGAL]

They make a fan that runs on ∆ not sure what they cost but you should have plenty of ∆ coming off the ammo can and would be a great indicator of the temp when you are sleeping.

[@friendoftellus5741]

I suggest you fasten a lightweight titanium wood stove to the outside of your camper. And then fasten your coil system on top of that. That way you won't have to assemble and disassemble your system every time you want to use it.

[@growingpains9324]

Cover the outside an bottom in stainless put fiberglass in between stainless an ur camper thin just start parking it about hafe way on the fire you will stay warm an it should be safe if you build it right may have to make little adjustments until its perfect.

[@ForPropertyInvestors]

They used to use this concept as cast iron or steal radiators in large hospitals I think they used oil in them, and pumped back in a huge boiler room or maybe it was gravity feed. But it could be regulated just by stopping the flow or opening it more. That water system you made would be good for shower water camping and insulation to keep it warm which would be cheap. You could use steal 3/4 inch threaded steal pipe would handle heat a while but the sand is interesting. If camping next to the ocean ppl could access it and sea water to shower. I guess that’s why they used similarly systems in old houses with wood fires for 100 years with regular header water tanks! The middle header copper with a ball float and connected to an outside large water tank higher then the whole system would gravity feed all hot water to the house, bath, sink, coffee, washing etc. You could insulate the whole amp box or custom the top of a bought round regular household hot water cylinder and have a “hot air rises” enclosed metal area at the top with a regulated 12v computer fan to let hot air out as needed. The air would draw though across the top as needed. Even just a pipe of 100mm steal pipe layer rectangular along the top of the top of the box and insulated all around. Take some experimenting! So it becomes a thermal regulated fan heater. All the best in the snow. None here where I live I like getting cold and going to sleep.

[@leehilton9932]

A tripod cooker set up for the lobster pot would make a great thermostat. Closer to the fire the hotter, and the opposite the father above the fire. Cool

[@halicamike]

Truck House Life does a really good install video of a webasto heater..

[@Jay-pu6cu]

Wild thought but what about using a radiator of some sort that you can control flow through that goes outside for those times its producing too much heat and you can get some of that heat to the outside instead of having to crack the door open every few minutes to cool down. Its Adding complexity to it but I guess when you can find some sort of permanent mount it could be viable.

[@JLC24]

also use roxul as a heat shield between the amo box and your sleeping chamber

[@mandoramirez1205]

If all your doing is to heat your sleeping quarters which in itself is a great idea, you don't need water,just heat the copper, as the air heats it will exit from the pipe into your sleeping area and at the same time it draws fresh air in from the other end, in theory of course.

[@krislarsen6546]

Connect the pressure release to another empty ammo can box to further conserve resources

[@freepress8451]

@12:55 A certain ambience both welcoming and relaxing

[@kebab6597]

You got my mind thinking about ways to heat my garage/workshop split into 4 rooms I have the log burner (not tried it yet so don,t know how good it will be ) but if its not able to heat the whole garage I could run copper pipes in the same way you have to rads or large ammo boxes with a large water filled ammo box on top of the burner

[@BatJordo]

You could by pass the tank with a few Y’s and a shut off valve and use that to regulate the tenp

[@Fuzzy6262]

Caution, this will subsequently bypass the 'vent.' as well.

[@BatJordo]

Right. Plan b, temperature controlled exhaust fan.

[@cliffcollins4124]

Two things, Thermo cycling will not work under pressure, and wet sand inside the box, with a copper coil through the sand will take longer to heat, but will hold the heat longer

[@f.lindeman223]

What about glycol instead of water? It wont freezing so the maintainence would be minimal. You might need to make sure it's a sealed unit at that point. Thanks for the video!

[@bng333]

you can make a slide on the side and make it super comfortable when u need to catch some zs. DOPE ASS VID

[@scottsmith1607]

If you are going to stay somewhere where this type of heat system would be relevant there would still be many other better options like just making a large enough domiciles to have a fireplace inside of it

[@Legend-China]

Throughout Chinese history, there have always been people who preferred to spend their lives in the mountains, getting by on less, sleeping under thatch, wearing old cloths, working the higher slopes, not talking much, writing even less -- maybe a few poems, a recipe or two. Out of touch with the times but not with the seasons, they cultivated roots of the spirit, trading flatland dust for mountain mist. Distant and insignificant, they were the most respected men and women in the world's oldest society."-- Porter, Bill. Road to Heaven: Encounters with Chinese Hermits.With the author.On the 30th anniversary, I leave metropolis and go back to Bill's way and salute him.No team and photographic equipment.only me,only cellphone, Thanks.

[@murderdoggg]

40 liters of water x 4.186(water C value) x 45° delta it gives off = 7535 WattSomethings or 2 Kwh battery when the valves are shut.

[@nzfalcon8698]

you might want to insulate the pipes to stop heat loss as well

[@jacksonms212]

lol ... yeah you're still young !!! that would have my old self outside in the cold all night writing my name in the snow :D

[@MrArthurGiles]

Shawn Jackson, you could always plumb that in too !

[@heywhyerd]

19:15 instead of the valves your using you can use ball valves or supply valves instead of those point of use valves. So you don't have to worry about the seals leaking.

[@madjeepernh6834]

In the right mindset, yes this is great!!!

[@brianrhodes9522]

You need to insulate your exterior pipes...will result in far less heat loss

[@jerrygregoire586]

Great work and absolute sustainability!

[@lindaashbrook6789]

You are so amazing! Lots of thought involved. I'm sure it feels awesome to have your plans prove right!

[@michaeldemers2716]

If you do do Kerosene I would put an insulated ridge vent on.

[@printxii]

You should try in floor heating.

[@workingken4268]

Im the marine corp we used it as a cooking pot back in the 70's and maybe its not safe but we used it anyway and still im here lol

[@a-fox]

Unless you can leave the pot on the fire while you sleep it seems to me that it would be easier to simply boil water pour it into the ammo can and sit the can inside.

[@watchful1168]

I wonder if you can heat the water using an induction cooktop type element. They can be plugged into 110 and use 70% less electricity than a conventional cooktop. Batteries and Solar panels.

[@jaycook3902]

It wood be cool if you could some how installed a shower line

[@saddle1940]

Just curious, why raise the hot water pipe that high above the tank? I would have thought running it up through the floor would have worked better for water flow. Could you use a toilet float style valve to replenish any boiled water?

[@matthirn7858]

Not a bad idea, but rather clunky as you said. I am wondering why you did not go the traditional route and put in a small stove vented to the outside for both intake and chimney. I am thinking that you could use charcoal as fuel. A small pile of red hot coals with a coil of unlit charcoal briquettes to snake the fire along all night should provide enough heat for that tiny space. Just a thought. No need to re-invent the wheel.

[@reelinandrockin9022]

Instead of an ammo can how about a small radiator? Or a floor board heater?

[@geraldpreuss6589]

thats`s exactly what i was lookin` for..how about a kind of shingle(brick)- insolated underfloor heating ?nice job berlin germany

[@jeffcaine6221]

Great idea but to many middle men. Small wood stove is super safe installed properly. To many parts in this for me personally. Love the little project though cheers!

[@conoromelia8435]

If you put lagging on the pipes it would be much more efficient.

[@XsmaelTheBest7]

is is possible to use water instead of sand ? what could be the pros and cons ?

[@davethemmp3763]

Mini solar with a battery and an electric mattress pad good all night.

[@Phil_Melone]

Should have something to keep it up so it doesn't fall over

[@jasonstatham5879]

I don't understand the transporting of the large jug in the middle of winter when you have tons of snow all around you. Not saying you shouldn't have it on hand, but it wouldn't have been my fist choice.

[@richm2923]

Get one of those Chinese diesel heater to heat it up

[@williamleopold507]

Very interesting !

[@patchy4311]

Time for a make a electric generation system!

[@duggydugg3937]

any chance a rocket stove in a corner ...maybe up a foot or two ?

[@patrickstarnes2355]

Get yourself a patent boy fast!

[@gabe1254]

Thermosiphon 👍

[@ashlarsen]

it is good dont worry bra

[@jasonalexander4249]

I like your inventiveness but a small wood stove would be a better idea. wood, stove and lighter. done.

[@mitchtutor6108]

Couldn’t you decrease the flow through the inlet and outlet in order to decrease the temperature

[@pleaseawaken3376]

Why vent the extra heat outside? I understand needing to dissipate pressure but that is a waste

[@christopherhuffman9631]

CARC paint (Chemical Agent Resistant Coating)

[@qeelevators2960]

You have a busted head gasket on your snowmobile buddy! That blue smoke is oil!

[@Mycobro]

All these people saying oh you can just use antifreeze like hot water isn't something nice to have when it's snowing

[@michaelmartin3807]

Fill the system with glycol. Then you won’t need to bleed it out each time. You will need a couple of isolation valves on either side of the disconnects so you can transport without losing much of the glycol. Awesome project, very impressive!

[@Linuxhax]

Propylene Glycol.

[@DBuss-om8sh]

That's what I was thinking too. But can glycol can be heaten up that much? Is it the same than Prestone?

[@letrainavapeur]

Take all those kinks out of the flexible pipe, shorten the copper pipes and insulate all pipes. To control the temps just put less wood on the fire. Need to remove the valve from the vent line or one day it's going to be left shut.

[@Talkingworms]

My thoughts exactly. There are too many ways to build up pressure in the hot line and effectively creating a pipe bomb. An inline pressure release directly following the copper pipe would be my first safety add. Also, this is extremely overkill for a space that seems to be less than 50 cubic feet. Just insulate, then heat a pot of water and pour it into the ammo can.

[@letrainavapeur]

@@Talkingworms The traditional way, at least in power stations is to fit a pressure relief valve to any pressure generator without any means of disabling that pressure relief i.e. valves. I would also be quite wary of that pressure relief valve operating in a water filled line since it would emit very hot water.

[@Talkingworms]

@@letrainavapeur A very good point. Honestly, I keep going back to "just heat the can of water, put a little insulation in the walls, and drag the can inside as a considerably massive thermal sink." Or even safer- skip the water and go directly to sand.

[@letrainavapeur]

@@Talkingworms How about using some thermal bricks as used in electric storage radiators and just heat them in a custom frame on the fire, easier to handle and transport.

[@Talkingworms]

@@letrainavapeur Perfect.

[@ShaneZettelmier]

There are lots of ways you can deal with the pressure, almost every house hot water heater deals with it. You can buy a pressure tank which is about the size of a soccer ball and it’s got kind of a bladder inside so when your pressure builds up it gives room for expansion and then as it cools it keeps a Tanks and all that from collapsing. The way to get around your valves with the rubber seals is to plumb it. Basically make a permanent radiator inside the camper and you can have a second water tank outside or an insulated tank outside and you can sweat or brace everything together so you don’t have to worry about seals. You can get hot water rated valves and put them outside, you could even put them in an area where you can pile of snow on them but outside they were cool a lot better. You can do things like insulate your pipes running over to the fire, you could have a smaller fire or build a specific stove to heat it like a little rocket stove or build A small wood stove with a flu and tight ventilation system to keep your wood-burning slow and not as hot all night. Another thought is you could do a fire pit and have wood set above it on the shelf and after a few hours you could just yank on the cable and dump that wood in the fire pit to keep it going longer. You could also have an external tank that you could mount on the exterior wall and insulate some and you could have that work like a boiler and put a small car radiator or something inside, maybe even a small motorcycle radiator. I like the idea of just using wood and mechanical devices and not needing electric but you could wire your snowmobile and or a small generator to charge a battery and you could heat the water in the tank with a diesel glow plug, you’d be surprised how much it will heat it and that way you could put it on a timer or even a thermostat and the car battery should run that for several hours. I’ve seen people make a water heater with a 55 gallon drum and heat 55 gallons with two small glow plugs within an hour or less. It would probably heat your ammo box in 10 minutes end it wouldn’t take much to put a thermostat on their aunt be able to control your temperature very well and make it last a long time. Since you’re pulling it with a snowmobile you could run wires off of the alternator through the trailer hitch and charge your battery that way and not need a solar panel or a generator and you would always have a battery back up for your snowmobile as well. You could even mount a couple of batteries on the snowmobile and use that to power the heater and lights in the camper. I love these projects, it will be fun to play with overtime and make improvements on. Now you’re gonna have to work on an air conditioner. ;)

[@bigoldgrizzly]

Some great ideas fella - just seems a shame that the channel owner has not bothered to reply or comment on your [or amost anyone else's] valuable contribution(s)

[@jaquigreenlees]

To set up a camp for a number of days you could add some anti-freeze to the water so there is not as much risk of the lines freezing.

[@GHumpty1965]

Not if he plans on maybe wanting to drink something hot like tea or coffee from it. Breaking it down might contaminate the area he is camping in which is not good for the enviroment, I think hes trying to leave a Zero foot print while out camping like this.

[@PaulSchortemeyer]

Great idea! He wouldn't need to flush the lines every day...if the antifreeze can handle the heat(?) There would be no contamination of the environment unless it developed a leak.

[@PaulSchortemeyer]

@@GHumpty1965 He actually mentions that this is not a potable water system...he has no plans to consume the water. Also, if he doesn't have to drain it there would be no contamination (theoretically).

[@strietermarinesurvey1415]

They sell environmentally friendly antifreeze at most hardware stores.

[@jaquigreenlees]

@@strietermarinesurvey1415 exactly. and wood alcohol is the base ingredient in them, a naturally occurring product that has existing microbial life that eats it.

[@Shady-Shane]

can also be used as an emergency bong.

[@Bliu2th]

Inside a hotbox

[@carlmartin3623]

Inside shady Shane's rv 😂

[@Dark_Knight_USA]

I suppose if Ur stoned being cold, frostbite, hypothermia or death won't matter.

[@pixelbasedlifeforms]

The design can be improved IMO. You can attach a small woodstove to the one of the outside walls with the pipes already in it. Pipes could connect to the radiator on the other side of the same wall, inside the cabin. This way the pipes could be super short preventing the heat loss. It could make it much easier to use as well. You wouldn’t need to set anything up. All you would need to do would be to put the wood inside and start the fire.

[@Imnotyourdoormat]

Xtra-kool, the cons you mentioned can be refined, still a great prototype...i was thinking anti freeze, clear fuel-type filter, a few anti-freeze tester balls to monitor flow, pressure cooker popoff or mr. beer machine valve instead of the vent. maybe a quick mount on the shed itself for usability and unclunkyness. i can think of 100 more im sure you can too...outstanding job kutgw.

[@carbonmonoxidefreeheater8381]

If you don't mind commercial version of heated water heater, I recommend to see this - kzbin.info/www/bejne/iqjVaGmMg96qrqc

[@dlsdyer9071]

As far as adjusting the heat, you could use a vent arm like we have in our greenhouse that automatically opens when a certain temp is reached and closes when it cools.

[@TheOutsiderCabin]

Interesting idea!

[@romeorozeta4998]

Or perhaps something similar to what an automobile uses on the water line.

[@allamerican6094]

We have those arms on our greenhouse also.they work very well.can adjust them to desired temp.i think we got them from Johnny's greenhouse supply

[@monkeysuncle2816]

Or a secondary water line, with isolating valves, to shunt the unwanted heated water outside to cool it off.

[@tonymorrison578]

simple plumbing fittings with header tank and head stand would complete the heat battery - good idea !!

[@Lee-qp6gf]

Add a couple of magnetic thermometers to the side of the tank. You could tell what it's doing. Good luck, Lee

[@b5maddog]

Love the system. Really enjoyed you showing and explaining the well thought out heater. Please say hello to your father. God bless you and your family always

[@joetri1970]

Tip don't place the thermometer above the heat source you will get a false reading

[@Natashahoneypot]

Well where should the thermometer go then?

[@joetri1970]

@@Natashahoneypot for the most reliable temperature reading it should be in the center of the cabin at the middle from top to bottom now if you have a central heating system with forced air it should be located beside the return air intake placing thermostats or thermometers above heat sources gives false reading because heat rises.

[@ilcilc2910]

It may not be practical but it is a "proof-of-concept". I can actually see this becoming more practical if more "tweaking" is done to it. It might actually be beneficial to bring outside expertise to help further mature the design.

[@MarshaMarsha885]

I would of given up a long time ago and bought a Mr Buddy heater.

[@aldinoaldinovic6282]

yup... the whole setup is just wrong from beginning... not efficient, big, and takes too much effort to heat little camper... this is just bad idea for heating

[@kimcurtis9366]

@@aldinoaldinovic6282 So, when you rub out of fuel for Mr. Buddy heater, what do you do? As he said, there is a whole countryside FULL of fuel!

[@aldinoaldinovic6282]

@@kimcurtis9366 well, 1 of all.... I never mentioned Mr.Buddy or any other diesel heater... but... if you willing to carry 5 Gallon of water. cooking pat filled with sand and ammo box along with pipes and hoses... yes, I rather have two 5 gallon canisters filled with diesel which in constant running will least for about a week ;) But, for this little camper with thermostat and automatic on/off will least for few weeks :)

[@samueljason8437]

seems like a lot of work.

[@nextpagepj9058]

Me too Marsha

[@spaceing3328]

Iam always happy to see new episode

[@creativejamieplays7185]

I feel like you might want to put a quick connector between the inside and outside of the cabin. That way you don't have to crawl underneath a fumble with the hose. Just clip on outside and inside then its done.

[@roizdoci]

and a faster set up

[@jamespatterson1433]

Cold air coming up the hole in the floor is only happing because hot air is going up and out the holes in the gables. Its a good thing, I wouldn't totally plug it.

[@andrewcairns7185]

I like you trial and error can-do attitude. I really enjoy your videos. Thanks for making fun content.

[@josiahstevenson]

If you rotate your coil bucket 90 degrees so it's on its side, you'll get a lot of convection flow in the line - probably enough to switch the inlet and outlet and still have the water circulating a lot faster.

[@goqsane]

@@Nighterlev on its* side.

[@bearrivermama6414]

Great job. I enjoyed watching your ingenuity come to life! I'm sitting next to my fireplace watching with the temperature outside at -49* so my appreciation for the heat you created is at a heightened level! 😂

[@alexanderheling2057]

Now, that is a tiny home!

[@krzysztofboduch1492]

As you lose water you can just throw some snow in to replenish and cool down a little the system.

[@AdventureUwe]

I think it is a mistake not to insulate the pipes. You are loosing a lot of heat along the way from the pot to the ammo-box.

[@Baer1990]

fair point, but if it takes him 2 hours to heat it up to the point he has to shut it off, it has no added value to cut back that time to an hour and a half

[@superresistant0]

it's already heating too much

[@GordLamb]

I'd weld copper pipes directly to the radiator inside, permanently mounted, to faucets outside the camper, with self-sealing quick disconnects. Replace the pot and coil with another ammo box that sits near or over the fire. Fill the whole system with antifreeze, and just hang the exterior ammo can on the side of the camper when not in use. Should be able to just grab it off the wall, and set it next to / on top of the fire and be good to go! Could also put a radiator / heat sink on the outside of the camper with a mechanical bypass thermostat; if the antifreeze exceeds a certain temperature it's rerouted through the heatsink to cool it off and regulate the temperature.

[@barefootralph8467]

I know you discounted the use of cast iron radiators but have you thought of using a car or truck radiator, they already have an inlet, an outlet, a relief valve, and It disperses heat well. In floor or in wall piping might help too if you are still looking for improvement options. Congrats on the great job so far.

[@jeffweber8244]

BareFoot Ralph Yes, perhaps a radiator from a “crotch rocket” inline-six motorcycle would be about the right size and weight for the task