Overheating? Seawater pump! Raw water pump. Boat work!

[@havardfossa1711]

Thank you for your informative video. I have now made my repair, and learned a lot. I got some problems getting the bearings and the shaft out, so i had to use a piece of wood and a hammer. I also had problems getting the bearings back in position. I solved this by putting the shaft and bearings into my freezer( -18 degrees Celsius) to the next day, and i also heated the pump to about 50-70 degrees Celsius using a heating gun. Then i could simply slide the bearing back in place without any use of force at all.

[@SVImpavidus]

Glad you liked the video. Sail Safe mate. Ant, Cid & the pooch crew.

[@fergusferguson8536]

Engineer. make it look so easy..thanks for sharing.

[@SVImpavidus]

Thank you Fergus.

[@DirkJacobsz]

Geez Ant - your skill level is amazing.. thanks

[@SVImpavidus]

Wow, thanks. Sail Safe mate. Ant & Cid

[@Coolmore362]

Very informative 👍, sure very useful to other boat owners, seeing the micrometer brought back memories of a different life 35 yrs ago 😳, time flys , enjoy the sailing season.

[@SVImpavidus]

Thank you Shaun. Hopefully it will be of use to folks. Sail Safe. Ant.

[@SailingTalisman]

Hi Ant. For other viewers, here's some good practice for impeller changes. So it's a bit hard to see in your video, but if your oil seal is good, which will be the case most of the time I'd assume, you can replace just the water seal pretty easily. For the Johnson and Jabsco pumps they often come with a water seal in the pump service/impeller kit. To replace, use a paint can lid removal tool. These look like beer bottle openers, except with a hooked end. The hooked end is a 90 degree turn in the metal. You use it on the paint can lids by hooking the end under the lip of the lid and prying the lid off. To use one to remove the water seal, simply reach in through the open ports between the tri or quad bearing supports behind the seal and push the seal around in a circle (pushing on the outer seat of the seal). In this manner you can work the old seal out in less than a minute. There's absolutely no reason to do an impeller change without swapping the seal too. Put a very thin film of plumbers grease on the new seal, both outer seat and inner seal prior to install, obviously. Use a deep well socket and mallet to tap the new seal in, so as not to bend it as you install. It is possible, and I see it quite often, that people put too much grease or lubricant on something that has to go into a machined hole. If you do this, the extra grease or oil will end up in the bottom and prevent full seating of the fastener, bearing, race, seal, whatever.

[@SVImpavidus]

Yes good points Kevin. We wanted to check the shaft wear as the engine is now 5 years old But We did Davids by just hooking out the front seal with a mechanics seal hook. Thanks for watching. Ant.

[@davegarrard2485]

Brilliant vid. I’m about to replace seals on my Volvo 2040D.... seems like identical pump... all same symptoms with leak through the ports... once I’ve got a few more parts ( thanks for heads up), I’ll respond back. Cheers. 👌🏻

[@SVImpavidus]

Glad you liked it Dave. Sail Safe mate. Ant, Cid & the pooch crew.

[@vairamg]

Thank you guys for the excellent tutorial and advice

[@SVImpavidus]

Thanks for watching. Ant.

[@johanberger7324]

Great video, just what i was searching for. Thanks a lot👍😊

[@SVImpavidus]

Thanks Johan there is a couple of more in depth videos on this subject we made more recently. Thanks for watching. New video out tomorrow.

[@phillipcorey2182]

Good one Ant...and Cid. I would have never painted the pump, but there again, I´m not half the engineer as you. Well done mate.

[@SVImpavidus]

Thanks Philip. We really do try to keep everything as new clean, it helps with the checks and the maintenance. Sail Safe. See you soon. Ant.

[@SailingTalisman]

Hi Phil. Hope to see you guys eventually.

[@srenoster728]

this is just some of the best DIY I have seen in a very long time. got the same Volvo D1-30 in my Moody36cc. Keep on going. Søren

[@SVImpavidus]

Glad you liked it! Sail Safe guys. Ant, Cid and the pooch crew.

[@WavedancerWesterlyfulmar]

Great video need to do this job. We use a cable tie to keep fins in same direction and slide in the impeller gently remove cable tie as it goes into place.

[@SVImpavidus]

Some use a cable ie and that works. Fairy liquid and a twisting motion works well on the bigger pumps. The Yanmar video is a good example of this if you watch that one we did. Sail Safe mate. Ant, Cid & the pooch crew.

[@WavedancerWesterlyfulmar]

@@SVImpavidus Thanks. Take care and God bless

[@DeuteroMartin]

Great help seeing this. Only question from me is, to what torque do you tighten the nut holding the water pump drive gear? The one being fixed with Loctite.

[@SVImpavidus]

Each type of pump has a slightly different torque setting dependant on the shaft diameter. Most now have a nyloc nut that does not require a thread locker. You can find the torque setting in the workshop/owners manual which can be downloaded free from the engine manufacturer. Hope this helps. Ant.

[@ulftornert2855]

Great video! Very informative! 👍👍👍

[@SVImpavidus]

Thank you. Enjoy our other videos too 👍

[@philgray1023]

I wish you'd just done mine. Finding the seal in the local suppliers isn't easy. I have a quote to ship the seal from the USA, only US$105. Thats to ship only the seal!

[@SVImpavidus]

Check our web page there ıs a supplier lıst for parts wıth the numbers and the places we got them. Sail Safe mate. Ant & Cid

[@edrussell7960]

Always good stuff

[@SVImpavidus]

Thanks for watching Ed. Sail Safe.

[@SBODS]

Hi Ant, is it possible to replace the water seal whith the pump still in position? (I.E. "dig"it out from the front around the shaft?)

[@SVImpavidus]

Yes mate. Use a lip seal hook or dental pick. then just push the new one in being careful not to damage it on the impeller slot. Ant.

[@WavedancerWesterlyfulmar]

Forgot to ask, what's the name of the 3 legged dohickey used to remove the shaft? I need to buy one. Thanks, Yvonne

[@SVImpavidus]

Here is a link: www.amazon.co.uk/Puller-Bearing-Removal-Internal-External/dp/B01CIEUXQQ/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=bearing+puller&qid=1629286101&sr=8-5

[@WavedancerWesterlyfulmar]

@@SVImpavidus thanks you're a pet. Yvonne

[@davidstrachan8912]

Hey Sid. How did you undo the nut that holds the gear on the shaft? I assume you lose it before taking the gear off? Trying to hold gear while loosening nut?

[@SVImpavidus]

David. Hold the gear wheel in a rag in a vice. Ant.

[@SuperPatleo]

Ciao! I'm in your position right now. Water pomp leaking! Need to take it down a make it new. Can you help me find what I need? Oring and spring! Looks like exactly the same of yours!

[@SVImpavidus]

Check the Volvo part numbers in the parts manual against your pump. They are printed on the parts. We are not able to help individuals with rebuilds but there is a lot of information online through Volvo's comprehensive manuals which are all on line. Sail Safe.

[@russellrose4624]

Just something that I have found an easy way to remove those impellers. With the cover removed I spray it liberally with WD40 lubricant, then give the engine a quick turn over without starting. I find it loosens the impeller so its very easily levered or pulled out with little effort.

[@WavedancerWesterlyfulmar]

Found salt crystals near water pump. Wasn't there that morning but yes 7 hours later. Thanks for the information about this. We've a beta marine kabuta engine so might have slightly different bits but principle the same. We have shut off intake seacock whilst we are off boat ( not liveaboards)

[@SVImpavidus]

Glad you liked it. Thanks for watching.

[@trulsvikin9649]

Very good and informative video. Have you had a leaking coolant pump yet, and a how-to on replacing seals (freshwater side)? The original VP pump is 821 euros 😳

[@SVImpavidus]

Hi we have not had a leaking coolant pump yet. However, the D1-30 is a Perkins engine not a Volvo Penta. You can buy the pump here for less than €90 www.parts4engines.co.m/volvo-penta-d1-13-d1-20-d1-30/?sort=featured&page=2. Hope this helps. Sail safe. Ant

[@trulsvikin9649]

@@SVImpavidus Thanks. No leak anymore, and it was 1/6 of the VP original part price including postage and customs.

[@davidscott851]

Mine next mate as soon as the parts arrive, great video especially for a beginner like me.

[@SVImpavidus]

Its a pleasure to share David and know folks are getting something. Pass it on! Ant.

[@bettycamacho7084]

Since our pump was 18 yrs old and looking a bit corroded, we replaced it. (it was leaking) When would you recommend replace versus repair?

[@SVImpavidus]

Betty. Hi a good indicator is the wear on the pumps cam or faceplate. When they become scored or worn down the rear of the pump is usually the same and the impeller will not pump as efficiently. Again you can tell if the impeller is short of the face plate when a new one is fitted. Sail Safe Guys, Ant, Cid & the pooch crew.

[@sspeedguy100]

For the small price of new bearings and the work involved to get at them just put new in when doing the seal anyway, (Which I see you did) Didn't forget a bearing spacer and a gasket did you??

[@SVImpavidus]

Hi Paul. No we did not forget but not all the footage could be put in as we were on a bit of a time limit. Now we have better wifi we are thinking of doing an update to a few of our videos that we have cut short. Thanks for watching. Ant & Cid.

[@davidstrachan8912]

Hi Ant. We have an oil leak from back of raw water pump (engine side) on VP D1 30F. Looking at removing back plate to fit a new gasket but not sure how it is fitted. To me it looks like nuts are attached to back plate (ring spanner dosnt seem to fit on them and bottom nut close to engine seems its bolt almost touches engine mount so nut wouldnt come off completely) and you need to take out pump and then take bolts out of back plate. Have you ever done this? Thanks

[@SVImpavidus]

David. This video is a D1-30F there are 4 bolts that secure the pump through the castig. The plate on the back of the casting has the nuts captive. ie they are welded to the plate which is why you cannot get a spanner on them. There is not a lot of room to get at the 4 bolts you out from the front will need a socket. Dont try to remove the nuts at the back you could shear the weld (s). With the nuts removed the whole pump pulls forward with a slight rotation to disengage the gear drive. once the pump is out you can the remove the rear plate and gasket if it is leaking from there. Hope this helps. Ant.

[@davidstrachan8912]

@@SVImpavidus Thanks Ant. Once pump is out, how do I take the bolts out as they are engaged in back (welded) nuts? Lock two nuts on bolts and screw out (forward)? Thanks again. Much appreciated.

[@davidstrachan8912]

Ignore that last reply. I now realise it is a bolt and not stud with nuts each end. Thanks and safe sailing. Love your videos.

[@mikewomersley7888]

On a Bavaria 32 with a Volvo 2020 it is almost impossible to get at all the pump mounting nuts and bolts. Your video does not cover this, are all the nuts easily got at?

[@SVImpavidus]

Mike, Hi. Yes the 2020/30 has one bolt that needs the engine mounting removing to get it out the first time. God only knows they they did this! You can do this by wedging a wooden block under the sump before removing the pump. and undoing the mount. As the alignment is not critical like on a shaft. When you replace it turn the offending bolt(s) around so it is easy to get at next time. Our B32 2003 had this issue. On the D1 series of engines the pump is mounted on long bolts that go back to the block. They are all easy to get at. Make sure you note the pumps position and orientation before you remove it as it can be put back 180 degrees out which makes it suck not pump :-P Thanks for watching and the comments. Hope this helps. Best regards Ant.

[@nobody46820]

Any particular reason not to grease the bearings?

[@SVImpavidus]

The bearings run at the back of the pump behind the oil seal so they are lubricated from the engine oil. No need to grease them. Ant.

[@nobody46820]

@@SVImpavidus Ah, ok. Now the oil seal makes sense. Thanks for the reply. 😀

[@SVImpavidus]

@@nobody46820 No problem, thanks for the comment. Hopefully it will be read by others too and they will get some insight. Thanks for watching and a very good question. Ant.

[@OverlandSea]

Another well informative video 👍🏻 Got to be pink with a fairy on the top 🤣

[@SVImpavidus]

Has to be a pink fairy!

[@jimfromri]

Very educational video, thank you! Did you use the paper gasket when you put on the cover or did you skip it? A paper gasket remained on the table so I wasn’t sure.

[@SVImpavidus]

Jim yes we used the paper gasket. But when we use one we now make another using gasket paper . Thanks for watching. Ant.

[@philgray1023]

@@SVImpavidus Top idea.

[@joakimnorin6212]

Thanks for a very good video! Probably a stupid question, but should the engine oil be drained before removing the raw water pump shaft? I mean, since the shaft is partly inside the engine block. Thanks in advance!

[@SVImpavidus]

Hi Joakim. No is is not necessary as long as the engine has not been running for half an hour or more, as the oil runs back in the sump. There will be a little oil inside the case but the outer lip stops that coming out. Obviously, the gear and shaft will have some oil on it that may drip so place a rag under the pump as you remove it. Sail Safe mate. Ant, Cid & the pooch crew.

[@sadegallam8299]

Thought transoms are in curtain walling only 😁🤣. Are there any " mullions " around the boat ? 😆 I like your systematic logical and well planned approach to resolving and caring for various parts of the Boat's components. I really love your videos. Well done Ant and Cid. Be safe.

[@SVImpavidus]

Thanks Sadeg. Send our regards to everyone. Ant & Cid xx

[@tomharrell1954]

Good tutorial

[@SVImpavidus]

Many thanks. Sail Safe mate. Ant, Cid & the pooch crew.

[@skynyrdfx]

Hi Ant, thanks for the great video. It seems you use the gear puller to overcome the force holding the gear onto the shaft, or was it to help remove the retaining nut? I am having trouble removing the retaining nut and don’t want to damage the gear in the process, any tips? Is there locktite between the gear and the shaft or only between the nut threads and the threaded part of the shaft? What torque did you apply to the retaining nut when you put it back on? Thanks again for all your thorough videos!

[@SVImpavidus]

Tom Hi. Sorry we have been a bit tied up and not gone to the older videos to check the comments. The nut should be a Nyloc and not have any loctite on it. The best way to remove it is to place some wood strips in a vice and use these to bite in to the gear. That way it will not get damaged. Once the nut is off you can then use the puller to extract the gear. It is a taper fit so it will be tight. When the go, they pop of with quite a noise suddenly so just be aware. You may want to put a blanket or old towel round it as you use the puller. I cant remember the torque setting off hand but it will be in the owners manual. You can download that for free from the web. If you have any problems pop over to our web site and use the contact email. We read these every day. Sail Safe guys. Ant, Cid and the pooch crew.

[@BillSikes.]

When he mentions dial gauges and end float, I know he knows his stuff, Great video mate, very helpful indeed 👍👍👍

[@SVImpavidus]

Thank you. Glad you liked it. We now have a play list with all the maintenance videos in and a special series on Boat Electrical Made Easy. You may like these too. There are also two latest videos on Engine maintenance that have a few tips people have liked with some nice comments. Thanks for watching and as always Sail safe. Ant & Cid.

[@davidstrachan8912]

SS exhaust elbow - mine has broken down several times at welds. You like them vs cast iron? Also have you ever replaced your air filters? Thanks David

[@SVImpavidus]

David. Hi. We tried to get a cast stainless steel elbow as we have heard the welds can fail. Now checking it every year as part of our service schedule. The stainless is definitely superior to the cast iron ones as they dont corrode and swell up internally. We have the air filter on the list for the next service in a few weeks. But we are looking at a way of replacing the sealed box with something cheaper to replace. Ant

[@davidstrachan8912]

@@SVImpavidus Thanks Ant. I've had my SS elbows 12 months and had to get them rewelded 3 times. Just found cast SS ( no welds) here in Aust and they do ship os. Marine Energy Systems, Gold Coast Aust. Thanks and keep up the videos.

[@SVImpavidus]

@@davidstrachan8912 Thanks for the info David. Sail Safe. Ant.

[@stuarthinds848]

Very good. Wish it was on my Yanmar engine though.

[@SVImpavidus]

Glad you like it. I think the principals will be the same. Most of the pumps work in the same way and have the same faults. Woody has just done his, which is similar only belt driven. Sail safe. Ant.

[@stuarthinds848]

SV Impavidus (Ant & Cid Sailing) be good to meet (for me anyway) before you go. My round.

[@SVImpavidus]

@@stuarthinds848 Are you still in Almerimar? There is a meet up on Sunday at 13:00 local, D1/D2 pot luck and BBQ Haddock are organising.

[@waywardson8360]

Look guys, make the conversion to steam! You'll thank me later!

[@SVImpavidus]

😂👍👍

[@pumpguy4871]

Looks like the pump model number is: Johnson 10-24465-01 or equivalent to Volvo pump model number: 3580945

[@SVImpavidus]

Yest the Johnson pump parts are a quarter of the the price for spares. There is a list of these on our web site. Sail Safe mate. Ant & Cid