Own a Manual Lathe with a DRO ? Try This for Faster Parts !!!

[@pwpia5461]

Going to need a nap and replay this again. Yes...I have more respect for my DRO... I would have loved working across from you in a manual shop...50+ years ago...Carry on JOE!

[@joepie221]

Next time around !

[@mathewmolk2089]

I have been half-arse doing this on a simple part but never made a chart and screwed up a lot. Thanx for the boot in the keester. The next batch I make will be 100% per this video, and 10 bucks says I will cut my time (and scrap) in half. You da man, Joe.

[@joepie221]

Good luck.

[@MartinFALLS-j4d]

Thank you so much for your very clear introduction that gives big picture first then works down into detail. Very good communication makes this a pleasure to watch.

[@rrsteamer]

An add onto a yesterday day comment. Rex 95 and Mo-Max were my favorite when I could get my hands on either one. You might laugh at the following but while serving time as a railroad machinist apprentice, some of the old head machine men (as opposed to nut splitters working on erecting floor) told me that during the depression money was so tight that they couldn’t get even the Rex A series tool bits very often. So in a pinch they would find an old square file, grind the teeth off, then to the shape desired and use as necessary. You can imagine the cutting speed was not very high and calipers were the norm and as an apprentice you were expected to be able to read a half-a-64th on a scale! Keep up the nice work. Chris A. Retired but still making a few chips now and then.

[@joepie221]

I've actually done the file trick. They make good knives too.

[@chriscraven9572]

Super informative video Joe. Good job.

[@Shawn_speed]

As a hobby machinist, I’m so grateful that Joe takes time out of his paying work day to provide these invaluable lessons. I just put an X, Z DRO on my 13x40 Harrison lathe. A 40 pound hunk of dura bar is being whittled down to a solid tool post base presently. The absolute to incremental switch on my Bridgeport is becoming second nature. I can’t wait to index and catalogue all my quick change holders and get after projects. The process sheet will become another of my go to strategies thanks to Joe. Grateful in Central Phoenix Shawn

[@joepie221]

I normally just write it down on a pad and keep it close by, but the word document was much clearer for this video. Good luck.

[@timmienorrie]

I had to make 9 finials like this out of 8mm brass rod. Boy, this would have sped things up. Many thanks.

[@joepie221]

The first piece is always the longest any ways, so why not go the extra mile and map the moves. Its a huge time saver.

[@stevetaylor2445]

I wish I had your videos 40 years ago for teaching math You do it way better than my math teachers ever did

[@joepie221]

Thank you.

[@Ultimateflying1]

I have been struggling to learn how to use ABS & INC on my DRO. It never really made sense to me on how they work together….. Until I watched this video! It was like a lightbulb went off! Great Video Joe

[@joepie221]

Glad it was helpful!

[@mouseyou12]

I have used that for years thank you for showing so other people can learn I have used that on cnc to.

[@annacalise8336]

I love how my confusion transitions to comprehension by the end of the video, as usual this was very informative and efficient, I have learned so much from your videos Joe, your awesome!! I wish you had a school for machinists because I'd DEFINITELY be a student there! Thank you again for another great video!...

[@joepie221]

I'm glad it was helpful and I hope it make things easier going forward !

[@cncmoldsnstuff4423]

Ha! Thanks for being a good sport about the cardboard tube Joe. I usually use a little larger tube, but that's the one that was laying on the lathe tools cart when I thought to send it to you. So much stock comes in cardboard tubes I always have some laying around. I do usually go past the tool and around the part a little more with the tube, but I recognize you were also positioning for the camera. I also don't worry about catching chips in the tube. They dump out with the parts just fine. As you know sometimes the part will flip up and fall on the other side of the tool. Not often, but its still a pain to go hunt for it in the chip tray when they do.

[@joepie221]

Thanks for the gift. It was a perfect opportunity to use and show it.

[@trevorjarvis3050]

Joe Pie is the machinist I always wanted to be. I sure hope there’s a few youngsters there picking up what he’s putting down.

[@joepie221]

Thanks. I truly hope so too.

[@stringmanipulator]

altough I am a novice this was a real eyeopener , Will for sure watch the video multiple times to really get it into my mind thank you for all the awesome videos Joe, regards from sweden //Ken

[@joepie221]

Glad you enjoyed it!

[@TheEvertw]

Nice lessons! They do require a quick-change toolpost where tools can be changed with repeatable positions.

[@raglanforge9779]

Hi Joe. I've just implemented your process sheet for a small three of job, what a game changer thank you. From now on every lathe job that is more than one component I will spend five minutes developing the process sheet. Benefits to me so far: 50% productivity improvement on batch parts, parts more repeatable, less to remember, less stress when I'm under price pressure, repeat orders have a simple archiving process, more fun when doing mundane batch jobs. Reflecting on today, the real irony for me is:- we will pay a CNC programmer to do process thinking when we think we have a economic CNC batch! If we discipline ourselves to think process we inevitable increase our own economic batch size, awesome. Thanks again Alan

[@joepie221]

That's great to hear Alan. Good luck.

[@danielmierop662]

Your a great teacher! I’m a CNC guy, ~20 years. I’m so glad I understood what you were doing and the procedure and concept using absolute and incremental. The matter you were teaching was excellent, and didn’t warrant seeing micrometer and also a blade micrometer. That was understood. Video was also entertaining and really had my brain squirming to stay with the thought process. Thank You from New Hampshire.

[@joepie221]

Excellent. I'm glad you hung in. Its a good philosophy for multiple parts.

[@jeremyhere2002]

Joe. I appreciate your work. You have been the most influential machine shop teacher I have had and we've never met. Can wait for the horizontal mill series. Thanks for all your efforts. I wish you well.

[@joepie221]

Thank you very much. That's a rewarding and flattering compliment.

[@claygormish4884]

Thank you Joe. Was keeping the numbers in my head. Didn't consider a process sheet.

[@BOBB1947]

Hi Joe, Great video! I love instructions that I can actually use. Have a great day. Bob

[@joepie221]

thanks Bob. You as well.

[@matthewfolbre1635]

I did a process sheet when I was making a bunch of bushings. I didn’t do it quite like you did but the results from it were the same. I had someone in the shop and they were watching me watch the dro and not the part and were totally amazed the parts were coming out exactly like the print. Got my pallet a couple weeks ago and love it your quality is top notch.

[@joepie221]

Thank you very much. Enjoy the pallet. :)

[@paulmace7910]

I got lost going back and forth. Showing it on a drawing would have helped me understand. Thanks for the hard work.

[@joepie221]

Glad it helped!

[@PatrickKQ4HBD]

It took until 26:26 to realize that what you're "making" isn't the part; rather it's THE PROCESS SHEET that is the real project at this step. You're making your instruction set to be able to efficiently make more parts. Makes total sense now. 👍

[@trevorjarvis3050]

About 15 minutes in, I’m glancing at the comments thinking I’m stupid. As soon as I read yours, the lightbulb came on! The part is irrelevant, it’s the process sheet! Now I’m gonna have to watch it again. Thanks Man!

[@tomlutman2041]

When one thinks about it, it makes perfect sense. I tend to label as x/y moves, but I also tend to make one offs or multiple simple parts such as all the studs and nuts for my 10v Stuart.

[@Mike40M]

Really enjoyed this one. Some decades ago, teaching and researching in machine tool design, nowadays just a hobbyist. You're much better at teaching than I ever was. Like very much that you have chosen to show it in one axis only. Made it much easier to understand. Will use your wisdom playing with the lathe.

[@joepie221]

Glad you enjoyed it! Try it out. You'll like it.

[@toolbox-gua]

Another chapter of the practical useful tips. Thnak you.

[@joepie221]

Glad it was helpful!

[@angelramos-2005]

Good to see you again,Joe.I hope.Thank you.

[@joepie221]

Its good to have the opportunity to get back with you all ( Y'all).

[@earl5582]

Thank you Joe! What a timely video for me, was doing a small batch of parts on my mill for my home machine shop and could not figure out how to effectively use the ABS and INC functions on my import DRO, even after reading the manual 57 times. Watching your video one gave me that “Aha!” moment

[@joepie221]

Excellent.

[@Ideasite]

Thanks, Joe! I put a 2-axis DRO on my lathe. The obvious exercise for me is to extrapolate those techniques to that second axis. The key seems to be stopping the machine with the tool in the cut so you can read and record the position. Really great, fundamental stuff that will help my approach tremendously. Thanks, as always.

[@Gottenhimfella]

Just be aware that that method will not be advisable with insert tooling when turning anything as strong or stronger than mild steel. Partly because inserts are not sharp, and mainly because they are brittle, stopping the spindle before you withdraw almost always takes a nibble out of the edge as the rotation comes to a halt and the cutting force suddenly ramps up. This is so even when you have a dwell period where the tool does not move; there's almost always enough give or spring in the system that there is still enough residual pressure to keep the cutting tip engaged in the work.

[@joepie221]

I should have mentioned that I rarely stop a tool while in contact with the work piece. It jeopardizes the tool and will probably leave a mark on the part.

[@dpmachineworks]

Thank you Sir for taking the time to explain that. Is greatly appreciated.

[@joepie221]

Welcome.

[@ianpendlebury3704]

Fascinating and instructive. Thanks Joe.

[@joepie221]

Glad you enjoyed it

[@StuartsShed]

This is a great lesson - appreciate the detailed explanation - it makes production style turning a lot less of a chore. Great to see you posting again!

[@joepie221]

Good to have the time.

[@DavidR8]

Thanks Joe, definitely going to re-watch.

[@aguycalledlucas]

Great tutorial

[@joepie221]

Thank you!

[@MikelNaUsaCom]

nice. Thanks for the Info. as a hobbyist, I can take as long as I want on a part, but it's great to see what a professional does to optimize the order of operations and write them down on a process sheet. Thanks again!

[@joepie221]

Thanks for watching!

[@ghl3488]

As stated on Rowan and Martins Laugh In, 'very interesting '. Thanks Joe for another great tutorial. Regards from Wales

[@joepie221]

I wonder if Artie Johnson ever finished that cigarette. But....didn't he occasionally finish that line with "but stupid"

[@ghl3488]

Indeed he did but I did not think it appropriate to add that Joe. It just wouldn't be right!@@joepie221

[@jackpledger8118]

Great rundown on the incremental and absolute features of the DRO and how to use them effectively.

[@joepie221]

Incremental is not utilized as often as absolute. Its a great helper function depending on the dimensioning scheme.

[@jamesworsham125]

Nicely done!

[@allanmanning5131]

Thanks joe brilliant tutorial as always

[@joepie221]

Thanks. Glad you enjoyed it

[@FisVii77]

that was good thanks Joe, maybe some more of these to reinforce when you have batch runs :) appreciate it thanks again

[@mchiodox69]

Very cool. The setup for the repeatable chamfers is worth it alone!

[@TrPrecisionMachining]

good video Mr Joe Pie,,thanks for your time

[@joepie221]

You bet

[@warrenjones744]

That Mr Pie is valuable stuff sir. I have used the incremental function on the mill many times. It never occurred to me to use it on the lathe. Only god knows why! Thanks Brother.

[@cooperken11]

Great information, could you please show more of this on the mill. Love the theory behind it all. Thanks again for sharing your incredible knowledge of the trade.

[@joepie221]

I have several mill videos showing how to ignore the backlash, or change up cutting sequence to assure accuracy. Look through the playlists.

[@cooperken11]

@@joepie221 well that’s just great isn’t it 🥴 Do you have any idea how many of your videos I’m going to have to watch to find that info. I’m choking on my own RAAAGE. Love your work mate.

[@TMxl-w5t]

Very Impressive. Thanks 👍👌

[@PatrickHoodDaniel]

Excellent tutorial!!

[@joepie221]

Thanks.

[@MachinistJohn]

thank you for taking the time to show how to take the time to do it quicker ......clear as mud on my part, but Joe, keep posting please

[@joepie221]

try it a few times. The mud will clear.

[@tapp1t]

Thanks Joe, it’s not difficult, as ever very well explained. That was the final push for me to put a DRO on my Smart & Brown. I have to say your technical videos are pure gold, every one is a nugget.

[@joepie221]

Thanks. I'm happy to pass them on.

[@tano1747]

Very clever. Essentially the numbers you are finding are a combination of tool offset and part geometry. If you had a fancy dro with tool offset capability you could do this separately, but this is a brilliant method for the rest of us mere mortals with simpler dro's (so long as you use insert tooling or don't disturb a tool offset by resharpening the tool part way through the production run). Thanks Joe

[@raysimon1368]

Best example of how to use a dro I have ever been shown I'm retired now but when I was taught how to run multiple parts there were no dros so I learned the pad and paper method so cave man style compared to your version I still don't have a dro on my atlas lathe that is older than me but I been thinking about buying one even more now after watching your video I could make a form tool and a shave tool for a screw machine set it up and drop one off every 7 or 8 seconds on a 1inch multi thanks for sharing your knowledge with us don't work no more but still like to learn anything that catches my interest you are a very good machinist and a better teacher something that you hardly see anymore thanks

[@joepie221]

Thanks for the compliment.

[@WaynesGarageTexas]

Great process to use the absolute/incremental modes. Made perfect sense! Hey, that's a pretty big wolf spider hanging out on your back wall! wmk

[@joepie221]

Spider.....what spider? :)

[@suzukipilot4773]

Great video, Joe! ! ! I love all of your content, but this particular video is one of my favorites for sure. Thank you for doing what you do, you're awesome!

[@joepie221]

Awesome! Thank you!

[@paulcapotorto2926]

Thanks Joe great tip Good to see you back blessings

[@joepie221]

Back at ya !

[@jimanderson1355]

Outstanding video as usual, always a treat to be exposed to your wisdom and experience. Thank you.

[@joepie221]

My pleasure!

[@grahammorgan9635]

Thanks Joe, thanks very much for this gem, yes it takes a minute to get in your head but the benefits are golden when making multiple parts, thank you for your time and patience.

[@joepie221]

My pleasure!

[@Idontwanttosignupist]

Happy days! I was thinking it was a while since Joe had posted. This is great - I seldom use absolute and incremental but now I know how powerful it can be.

[@joepie221]

Very helpful.

[@keylock9064]

Spot on. Did similar with when making parts for missiles

[@injoelsgarage3934]

Thank you Joe, I will watch again. Awesome game plan.

[@joepie221]

Glad you enjoyed it

[@woodndrum303]

Stunning! This applies to the result, and to your skill as a teacher to break this down into manageable pieces that can be understood. I'm still manual and about 280 GBP shy of going digital, but at least I know what I'm missing!

[@g.tucker8682]

Whoof. I think I'll come back and try again after another cup of coffee. Thanks for the detailed lesson, Joe

[@joepie221]

It would be more efficient to drink the coffee while watching for the second time. :)

[@g.tucker8682]

​@@joepie221No, I'm gonna need full alertness from the get-go!

[@MachiningandMicrowaves]

Excellent video. My lathe is near-identical to yours and has a two-axis Newall Sapphire DRO that's now 41 years old. One day I'm going to swap the DRO for one with a tool library, but that old clunker is still hanging in there. I'm joining the Dark Side soon, bought a new Syil X5 CNC, but the Bridgeport and Colchester are definitely staying

[@ophirb25]

Great one. Now all i need is a good lathe and a digital readout.... 😂👍👍👍

[@joepie221]

minor detail. :)

[@wallbawden5511]

great stuff thanks and yes i am out the back baking cookies with the rest of the class . Joe one thing is on your plain there is no over all diameter . i was finding it hard to follow till you made the part then showed the diameter thanks as all ways Cheers.

[@joepie221]

Your small cheat sheet can be as involved as you want. I do normally add all relevant features.

[@Steve-te2kf]

Thank You.

[@111000100101001]

Excellent lesson Joe, will be put to use immediately in the shop! For quick projects we often have to make “just a few more than one” or spares and this technique will come in real handy. Thank You again for sharing your knowledge!

[@joepie221]

Once it become second nature, the first part will still be the longest, but not like during the learning curve. It works well for multiple parts.

[@leemarsh3569]

Time to get a DRO! I need to use a similar sheet on my old manual lathes or I’ll screw up. Another very informative video, thanks

[@rexmyers991]

FINALLY! I now understand how to use incremental. My head is spinning. But, I’ll watch the video several times to grasp it all. Thanks, Joe

[@joepie221]

They are actually easy to understand and use if someone takes the time to really explain the difference. Which one to use is normally driven by the dimensioning scheme on the print. If all features are dimensioned from the face of the part, all moves are probably absolute. If the fetures are dimensioned from each other along the length of the part, those would ( could) be incremental. The good thing is, once you zero the absolute and go to incremental, the absolute zero doesn't change. Unless of course you face the part off. Easy example: You are standing still in a snow covered field. That is absolute zero. It can also be incremental zero. Now zero the incremental scale and take a step. You have now moved 'x' in absolute from your starting position and 'xx' from your previous location. When you take your second step, the incremental value is the distance from your first step to the second. The absolute value is how far you are from where you started.

[@impetus444]

This is a great help for me as I move from hobby work to side hustle! Thank you very much sir.

[@joepie221]

Glad it was helpful!

[@โนรีคอกเบิร์น]

Improved half inch quality is About 12.7mm or 12700 microns to be exact!

[@BKeyes1440]

Great video as always, thanks Joe!!! Hope to see more content you have some of the best out there. Any chance I could get an experienced machinist such as yourself to comment on the ancient vases currently being scanned? There has been a challenge to replicate one out of any material.

[@joepie221]

Shoot me a link.

[@BKeyes1440]

I tried leaving one in the comment didn’t work. If you search vase scan project it will come up. Ben was on the Danny Jones podcast recently they talk about them for a good 40 min.

[@swiertopper7483]

Great explanation .I will surely will make this work one my next project . thanks Joe

[@MichaelLloyd]

That was a lot to take in but I understand the reason for doing it that way. Thanks Joe!

[@joepie221]

Only the first part is time consuming.

[@907jl]

Great demo on how to use ABS/INC ! Especially for those with an older basic DRO with no tool library( or limited tool library ). Nice meeting you last week. I keep a small dry erase board next to my lathe/mill for jotting down DRO settings. Your process sheet would be mo' better for repeat parts/production.👍

[@KW-ei3pi]

i recently added a DRO to my lathe and can now hit my numbers without a problem and much faster as well since I don't have to mic the part so many times to make sure I'm on track. I did however, find that using a DRO on a lathe is not like using one on a mill. I'm finding that working out all of the SDM numbers and entering them into the DRO is extremely time consuming and for me, a waste of time. I'm trying to workout a better system, and this video will help. A lot. Thanks!

[@ybtech]

Super cool! I did install a Z-axis DRO scale on my lathe. This will take some practice. Thank you so much for your great machining content. I have learned so much from your videos. Cheers!

[@joepie221]

Thank you.

[@mikepelelo5657]

Great video. I have just the exact project to apply this. Thanks Joe.

[@dynamiteralph]

I've watched this 3 times and I'm still lost! I think that I'll go out that I'll go outside and play in the mud. Maybe I can handle that!

[@paulschonewald4735]

I started with the mill where from plan I would end up working from a set of co ordinates, on the lathe I use basically the same system as your doing except I have a window directly behind and I use that like a white board instead of a paper copy. It saves a lot of time and "spares".

[@joepie221]

I like it.

[@ChrisB257]

Wish I had lathe DRO properly - but get the idea. Thanks for the demo Joe :)

[@joepie221]

You bet

[@andreventer3837]

Thanks Sir, I love the spider on the wall below your flags

[@joepie221]

He gets strategically place in my videos from time to time. Amazing how many people never see it.

[@andreventer3837]

@@joepie221 I try and check every work shop layout it is very important to work with safety in mind all the time.

[@davecummins6581]

Love your work Joe. Thank you!

[@joepie221]

Thanks for watching.

[@thenetwerx]

You are the Master! Emulating a CNC program is brilliant.

[@joepie221]

Thanks.

[@Gert357]

I have been using a version of that method for years. I make lots of parts close to the chuck. I use a 2" travel dial indicator as I do not have a DRO. The dial is zeroed on the right end of the part. I make notes of the dial reading for the features of the part maintaining the zero for the first tool. I find it easier to use the analog dial to either stop the power feed or move to the next location. The dial provides better feedback that is easier to use as opposed to watching a set of DRO numbers change.

[@joepie221]

I used a trav-a-dial for years. Once you get used to them, they are fantastic.

[@alansawyer1219]

Very good Joe, I like. Use what you've got before reaching for a CNC lathe you don't have.

[@joepie221]

Very true!

[@violettownmicroenterprises1528]

nice & logical...process...😊

[@JustinStroup-d1v]

Pretty interesting way of logging offsets.. I like it.

[@joepie221]

Thanks 👍

[@bearsrodshop7067]

Clear as mud,,, will come back to watch and take notes after the chemo gets out of my foggy brain 😞. Not having a DRO on my lathe and selling it may not make since, but this is an instructional exercise to sharpen the mind 🤔🤪.

[@jerryshelton1481]

Hard to comprehend but I just like watching you work cause you are definitely a pro

[@joepie221]

Thanks.

[@BensWorkshop]

Interesting tutorial. Many thanks.

[@joepie221]

Glad you enjoyed it

[@iancole6565]

Fantastic video. How perfect is this for making that chess set l Long delayed because of the boredom of turning so many identical pieces. Thanks Joe. So many things around my hobby machine shop inspired by you and now a shaped cardboard tube added to my tool drawers

[@joepie221]

Perfect application.

[@jimmyboles3409]

Really good to know!! Thanks for sharing!

[@george-b3i-d2d]

hey Joe Pie is back !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! yay !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[@george-b3i-d2d]

unloosen your belt and sit down to watch !!

[@joepie221]

Thanks. Your enthusiasm is much appreciated.

[@rrsteamer]

All new to me, but nice to see you use h.s. & alloy steel tool bits. Use what have for short runs. Thanks.

[@joepie221]

I have a lot of very useful HSS tools. I lean towards the cobalt ones.

[@vinniegaddows4182]

very slick

[@joepie221]

Practical too.

[@joell439]

Thanks Joe. Made perfect sense. 👍👍😎👍👍

[@asdftwef]

Love your videos, I've probably notched a hundred of them by now - you're a selfless and amazing teacher with so much to share. two big questions for you! Have you thought about or been approached by FIRST robotics high-school teams, especially FRC teams, to be a guest speaker or shop tour to inspire students directly? They would hang on your every word of wisdom! (I'm going to try and cultivate some of your intro lathe videos through our program this year.) I'm less than a year in owning a mill and lathe, but having trouble finding suitable chunks of steel to make my own tools and projects. Where can I get lower cost drops of steel solid round bar (2" to 6" dia) and 1.5-2" thick plate (5x5 to 10x10) for larger pieces? junkyards don't allow browsing. local metal suppliers charge a harsh premium plus cutting shorts. ebay kills on shipping. austin seems dry, but I suspect the recyclers are hauling some of this stuff off for scrap prices!

[@joepie221]

Thanks for the contribution. I have assisted FIRST teams in the past. Its a great program. For short material, check Metals 4U. They usually have short bars and small plates in stock. Also check a waterjet or laser house. They throw away the nesting material and may be happy to give it to you.

[@MichaelMoranGearHead]

Very nice! Now I'm going to take a piece of 1/2 6061 and use your process numbers on my lathe and see what happens.

[@joepie221]

The relationship between tools will have to match mine for the numbers to work for you. Play around with it. It really sinks in when you are pushing the buttons and turning the dials.

[@MichaelMoranGearHead]

I assume I'm going to have to do some scaling to adjust for machine and tool sizes. We'll see this afternoon. 😊

[@joepie221]

How'd it go?

[@MichaelMoranGearHead]

It went well. Other than adjusting for tool widths, it worked perfectly. I have an X axis DRO, so hitting depths was not a problem. I even threw the O ring on. Now it's just sitting on top of a workbench storage cabinet. A proud reminder. Who knows? Someone at a local car repair shop may need just this part. 😅

[@hossanderson643]

Thanks for such a Great lesson. I also have been struggling learning ab / Inc. This finally makes sense. Clouds have parted and once again I'm wondering why it seemed so hard to understand a relatively easy process. ( probably cause I'm KZbin taught) haha. Thanks again

[@davidcashin9194]

Yep allot to take in but something for me to work on thanks for the tutorial.

[@joepie221]

Glad to help

[@AmateurRedneckWorkshop]

Great lesson unfortunately I do not have a dro on my lathe. Thanks for the video keep on keeping on.

[@Tensquaremetreworkshop]

Not hard to fit...

[@joepie221]

Greetings Harold. This concept was developed using a Trav-A-Dial. Maybe a long throw drop indicator would be a good substitute?

[@mathewmolk2089]

Except you can get a Chi Com DRO for less money then a used Trav-A-Dia and have enough money left over to buy beer for the crew after work for a week. l always buy USA if I ca n but you can get a chinese DRO installed on the machine, have a second one in the office closet as a back up, and still not come close to half the price we paid for an Accu-Rite that only lasted us 4 years . ,,,,, and to be honest we have had zero problems with the 3- chinese "junk" DROs we have, including the the that replaced the B&L over 10 years ago,,,,,and I got guys that can ruin a crowbar.

[@AmateurRedneckWorkshop]

@@Tensquaremetreworkshop I have thought about that many times but my lathe has so many curved surfaces and not many flat ones that I have not got one.

[@AmateurRedneckWorkshop]

@@joepie221 my lathe would be hard to mount the dro on. Everything is curved. I have been tempted to get a dro for it but don't want the mounts to turn out wobbly due to no flat surface. Maybe if I get it back together I might get a dro and try anyway.